1997 FIAT PUNTO hydraulic system is such

Safety first! 0.5
Working on your ear can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding • Don't remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. • Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning • Beware of burns from the exhau3t system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.
Crushing • When working under or near a raised vehicle. ~ always supplement the ' ' -jack with axle stands, or use ... drive-on i'j ramps. kr Never venture ™ under
a
car
vv/j/ch
Is only supported by a jack. • Take card if loosening or tightening high-torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire • Fuel Is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. • Don't (et fuel spill onto a hot engine. • Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of toots). • Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don't work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. • Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repainng or modifying the vehicle wiring. • Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shock x ^ ^ ? , • Ignition HT _ " voltage can be ^ dangerous, ~ especially to > people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don't work on or near the f^ ignition system with fT") the engine running or ' J ' J the Ignition switched on.
• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication • Exhaust fumes are poisonous: they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut, • Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances • Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don't syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. « Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream If necessary. Change out of oll-soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. • Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame {including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.
Asbestos • Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found In gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with soch components It is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid • This extremely corrosive acid is formed when cerlam types of synthetic rubber, found In some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc. are exposed to temperatures above 400;C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years, tfit gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. • When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.
The battery • Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. • The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.
Air bags • Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steenng wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment • Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

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Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any otfterpart of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.
Remember...
DO • Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle. • Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary. • Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle. • Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. • Do remove rings, wrtstwatch etc. before working on the vehicle - especially the electrical system, • Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.
DON'T • Don't attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance. • Don't rush to finish a job. or take unverified short cuts. • Don't use ill-fitting toots which may slip and cause injury. • Don't leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once. • Don't allow children or pets to play In or near a vehicle being worked on.

6*2 Clutch
3 Clutch cable -removal and refitting
Note: This procedure applies to models fitted with a cabfe-opemted dutch
release mechanism.
Removal 1 Remove the battery and tray as described In Chapter SA. If necessary, also remove the Inlet air ducting for Improved access as described In the relevant part of Chapter 4. 2 Unscrew the adjustment locknut and adjuster nut from the end of the cable fitting, (hen release the inner and outer cables from the transmission housing. Note the position of the damper biock. 3 Working Inside the vehicle, unhook the inner cable from the top of the clutch pedaL 4 Returning to the engine compartment, unscrew the nuts securing the outer cable to the bulkhead, then withdraw the cable assembly from the engine compartment. Refitting 5 Apply a smear of multi-purpose grease to the cable end fittings, then pass the cable through the bulkhead. Refit and tighten the nuts. 6 Inside the vehicle hook the inner cable onto the top of the clutch pedal. 7 in the engine compartment, attach the outer cable to the transmission housing and refit the damper block and nuts lo Ihe inner cable end. fi Adjust the cable as described in Section 2. 9 Refit the air ducting and battery with reference to Chapters 4 and 5A
4 Clutch hydraulic system -
i
Note: This procedure applies to models fitted with the hydraulicalty-operated clutch release mechanism.

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Warning: Hydraulic fluid Is poisonous; thoroughly wash off spllfs from bare skin without delay. Seek Immediate medical advice If any fluid is swallowed or gets into the eyes. Certain types of hydraulic fluid are Inflammable and may ignite when brought into contact with hot components; when servicing any hydraulic system, It is safest to assume that the fluid IS Inflammable, and to take precautions against the risk of fire as though ft were petrof that was being handled. Hydraulic fluid Is an effective paint stripper and will also attack many plastics. If spillage occurs onto painted bodywork or fittings, ft should be washed off Immediately, using copious quantities of fresh water. It Is also hygroscopic - It can absorb moisture from the air, which then renders it useless. Old fluid may have
suffered contamination, and should never be re-used. When topping-up or renewing tho fluid, always use tha recommended grade, and ensure that It comes from a new seated container. General information 1 Whenever the clutch hydraulic lines are disconnected for service or repair, a certain amount of air will enter the system. The presence of air In any hydraulic system will Introduce a degree of elasticity, and in the clutch system this will translate into poor pedal feel and reduced travel, leading to inefficient gear changes and even clutch system failure. For this reason, the hydraulic lines must be sealed using hose clamps before any work la carried out and then on completion, topped up and bled to remove any air bubbles. 2 To seal off Ihe hydraulic supply to tha clutch slave cylinder, fit a proprietary brake hose clamp to the flexible section of the hose located over the transmission and tighten it securely. It will be necessary to remove the battery and battery tray to access the hose. 3 The most effective way of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system is to use a pressure brake bleeding kit. These are readily available in motor accessories shops and are extremely effective: the following sub-section describes bleeding the clutch system using such a kit. The alternative method is to bleed the system by depressing tho clutch pedal • refer to Chapter 9. Section 11, for details of this method.
Bleeding 4 Remove the protective cap from Ihe bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. Access can be improved by removing the battery and tray with reference to Chapter 5A. 5 Fit a ring spanner over the bleed nipple head, but do not slacken it at this point. Connect a length of dear plastic hose over the nipple and insert the other end into a clean container. Pour hydraulic fluid into the container, such that the end of the hose is covered. 6 Following the manufacturer's instructions, pour hydraulic fluid into the bleeding kit vessel 7 Unscrew the vehicle's fluid reservoir cap, then connect Ihe bleeding kit fluid supply hose to the reservoir. 8 Connect the pressure hose to a supply of compressed air - a spare tyre is a convenient source. Caution: Check that the pressure In the tyre does not exceed the maximum supply pressure quoted by the kit manufacturer, let soma sir escape to reduce the pressure, if necessary. Gently open the air valve and allow the air and fluid pressures to equalise. Check that there ere no teaks before proceeding. 9 Using the spanner, slacken the bleed pipe nipple until fluid and air bubbles can be seen to flow through the tube, into the container.
Maintain a steady flow until the emerging fluid la free of air bubbles; keep a watchful eye on the level of fluid in the bleeding kit vessel and the vehicle's fluid reservoir • if it Is allowed to drop too low, air may be forced into the system, defeating the object of the exercise. To refill the vessel, turn off the compressed air supply, remove the lid and pour In en appropriate quantity of clean fluid from a new container - do not re-use the fluid collected in the receiving container. Repeat as necessary until the ejected fluid is bubble-free. 10 On completion, pump the olutch pedal several times to assess its feel and travel. If firm, constant pedal resistance is not felt throughout the pedal stroke, it i6 probable that air Is still present in the system - repeat the bleeding procedure untii the pedal feel is restored. 11 Depressurise the bleeding kit and remove it from the vehicle. At this point, the fluid reservoir may be over-full; the excess should be removed using a clean pipette to reduce the level to the MAX mark. 12 Tighten the bleed pipe nipple using the spanner and remove the receiving container. Refit the protective cap. 13 On completion, assess the feel of the clutch pedal; if it exhibits any sponginess or looseness, further bleeding may be required. 14 Where removed, refit the battery and tray. 15 Finally, road test the vehicle and check the operation of the clutch system whilst changing up and down through the gsar9. whilst pulling away from a standstill and from a hill start.
5 Clutch master cylinder - & removal
and
refitting 5 S Note: This procedure applies to models
fitted
with the hydraulically-operated dutch
release
mechanism. Note: Refer to the warning at Ihe beginning
of
Section 4 regarding the hazards of
working
with hydraulic fluid.
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer lo Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4. 3 For improved access on petrol engine models, remove the alternator as described In Chapter 5A. 4 Fit a brake hose clamp to the hose between the hydraulic fluid reservoir and the clutch master cylinder. Alternatively syphon ail the fluid from the reservoir. 5 Disconnect the fluid supply hose at the master cylinder, then unscrew the union nut and disconnect the hydraulic pipe from the cylinder outlet. Be prepared for some fluid loss by placing some rags beneath the master cylinder.

Clutch 6*3
6 WorWng inside the vehicle, extract the split pin and remove the washer securing the master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal. Dsoonnect the pushrod from the pivot. 7 Have an assistant support the master cylinder In the engine compartment, then unscrew the mounting bolts. Withdraw the master cylinder from the engine compartment, 8 II is not possible to obtain an overhaul kit from Flat however some motor factors may be abls to supply one. Follow the Instructions with the repair kit if obtained.
Refitting 9 Refit the clutch master cylinder by following ihe removal procedure In reverse, noting the following. a) Apply a
Utile
high-melting point grease to the clutch pedal pivot. b) Tighten the mounting bolts and union nut securely. cj Fit a new split pin to the pushrod. d) Where removed, refit the alternator
as
described In Chapter 5A e) On completion bleed the clutch hydraulic system as descnbed in Section
A.

7 Clutch assembly -
removal,
inspection
and
refitting
S Clutch slave cylinder-removal and refitting
Note: This procedure applies to models fitted
ivrth
the hydraulically-operated clutch release mechanism. Note: Refer to the warning at the beginning
of
Section A regarding the hazards of working
with
hydraulic fluid.
Removal 1 Remove the battery and battery tray as described in Chapter 5A. 2 Fit a brake hose clamp to tha hose leading to the clutch slave cylinder. 3 Unscrew the union nut and disconnect the hydraulic pipe from the slave cylinder. Be prepared for some fluid loss by placing rags beneath the cylinder. 4 Unscrew the mounting bolts and release the slave cylinder pushrod from the release am on the transmission, then remove the unit from the engine compartment (see Illustration). 5 It is not possible to obtain an overhaul kit from Flat however some motor factors may be able to supply one. Follow tha instructions with the repair kit if obtained.
Refitting 6 Refit the clutch slave cylinder by following the removal procedure In reverse, noting the following. a) Apply a little high-melting point grease to the tip of the slave cylinder pushrod. b) Tighten the mounting bolts and union nut securely. c) On completion bleed the dutch hydraulic system as described in Section A.

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Warning: Dust created by clutch wear and deposited on the clutch components may contain asbestos, which Is a health hazard. DO NOT blow it out with compressed air, or inhale any of it. DO NOT use petrol or petroleum-based solvents to clean off the dust. Brake system cleaner or methylated spirit should be used to flush the dust Into a suitable receptacle. After the clutch components are wiped clean with rags, dispose of the confam/nafed rags and cleaner In a sealed, marked container. Note: Although some friction materials may no longer contain asbestos, it is safest to assume that they DO. and to take precautions accordingly.
Removal 1 Unless the complete engine/transmission is to be removed from the car and separated for major overhaul (see Chapter 2D), Ihe clutch can be reached by removing the transmission as descnbed in Chapter 7A, 2 Before disturbing the clutch, use chalk or a marker pen to mark the relationship of the pressure plate assembly to the flywheel. 3 Working In a diagonal sequence, slacken the pressure plate bolts by half a turn at a time, until spring pressure Is released and the bolls can be unscrewed by hand (see Illustration). 4 Prise the pressure piate assembly off its locating dowels, and collect the friction plate, noting which way round the friction plate is fitted (see Illustration).
Inspection Note: Due to the amount of work necessary to remove and refit clutch components, It is usually considered good practice to renew the clutch friction plate, pressure plate assembly and release bearing as a matched set. even if only one of these is actually worn enough to require renewal. It Is also worth considering the renewal of the clutch components on a preventative basis if the engine and/or
6.4 Removing the clutch slave cylinder from the transmission fransmj'ss/on have been removed for some other reason. 5 Separate the pressure plate and friction plate and place them on the bench. 6 When cleaning clutch components, read first the warning at the beginning of this Section; remove dust using a clean, dry cloth, and working in a well-ventilated atmosphere. 7 Check the friction plats facings for signs Of wear, damage or oil contamination. If the friction material is cracked, burnt, scored or damaged, or if It is contaminated with oil or grease (shown by shiny black patches), the friction plate must be renewed. 8 If tho friction material Is still serviceable, check that the centre boss splines are unworn, that the torsion springs are In good condition and securely fastened, and that all the rivets are tight. If any wear or damage is found, the friction plate must be renewed. 9 If the friction material is fouled with oil, this must be duo to an oil leak from the crankshaft rear (left-hand) oil seal, from the sump-to-cytinder block joint, or from the transmission Input shaft. Renew tha soal or repair the Joint, as appropriate, before Installing the new friction plate. 10 Check tha pressure plate assembly for obvious signs of wear or damage; shake it to check for looss rivets or worn or damaged fulcrum rings, and check thai the drive straps securing the pressure plate to the cover do not show signs (such as a deep yellow or blue discoloration) of overheating. If the diaphragm spring is worn or damaged, or if its pressure is In any way suspect, the pressure plate assembly should be renewed.
7.3 Removing the clutch pressure plate bolts 7.4 Removing the clutch pressure plate and friction plate
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9*2 Braking system
2.3a Release tho locking clip ...
1 General information
The braking system is of the vacuum servo-assisted. dual-circuit hydraulic type. The arrangement of Ihe hydraulic system is such that each circuit operates one front ond ono rear brake from a tandem master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, both circuits operate In unison However, in the event of hydraulic failure in one circuit, lull braking force will still be available at two diagonally-opposite wheels. All models covered in this manual are fitted with front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. The front disc brakes are aotuated by single-piston sliding lype calipers, which ensure lhat equal pressure is applied to each brake pad. The rear drum brakes incorporate leading and trailing shoes, which are actuated by twin-piston wheel cylinders. A self-adjust mechanism is incorporated, to automatically compensate for brako shoe wear. As the brake shoe linings wear, the footbrnke operation automatically operates the adjuster mechanism, which effectively lengthens the shoe strut and repositions the brake shoes, to remove the llning-to-drum clearance. The mechanical handbrake linkage operates the brake shoos via a lever attached to the trailing brake shoe.
2.3b ... and remove the pad wear indicator wiring and brake fluid line from the suspension strut Load sensitive proportioning valves operate on the rear brake hydraulic circuits, to prevent the possibility of the rear wheels locking before the front wheels under heavy braking. Note: When servicing any part of the system, work carefully and methodically; also observe scmpulous cleanliness when overhauling any part of the hydraulic sysiem. Always renew components (in axle sets, where applicable) if In doubt about their condition, and use only genuine Fiat replacement parts, or at least those of known good quality. Note the warnings given in Safety first and at relevant points in this Chapter concerning fhe dangers of asoestos dust and hydraulic fluid.
Models with anti-lock braking system (ABS) Available as an option on certain models, the anti-lock braking system prevents skidding which not only optimises stopping distances but allows full steering control to be maintained under maximum braking. By electronically monitoring the speed of each roadwheel in relation to the other wneete, Ihe system can detect when a wheel is about to lock-up, before control is actually lost. The brake fluid pressure applied to that wheel's brake caliper is then decreased and restored (or modulated) several times a second until control
£s
regained. The system components comprise an Electronic Control Unit (ECU), four wheel speed sensors, a hydraulic unit, brake lines and dashboard mounted warning lamps.
The hydraulic unit incorporates a tandem master cylinder, a valve block which modulates the pressure in the brake hydrauli: circuits during ABS operation, an accumulator which provides a supply of highly pressursed brake fluid, a hydraulic pump to charge Ihe accumulator and an integral electronic control unit (ECU). The four wheel sensors are mounted on the wheel hubs. The ECU uses the signals produced by the sensors to calculate Ihe rotational speed of each wheel, The ECU has a self-diagnostic capability and will inhibit the operation of the ABS il a fault is detected, lighting the dashboard mounted warning lamp. The braking system will then revert lo conventional. non-ABS operation. II the nature of the laull ie not immediately obvious upon inspection, the vehicle must be taken to a Fiat dealer, who will have the diagnostic equipment
required
lo interrogate the ABS ECU electronically and pin-point the problem
2 Front brake pads - & renewal S

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Warning: Renew BOTH sets ol front brake pads at the same
time
- NEVER renew the pads on
only
one wheel, as uneven braking may result

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Warning: Note that the dust created by wear of the pads
may
contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow It out with compressed air, and don't inhale any of
it.
An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petrol or petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts; use proprietary braks cleaner or methylated spirit only. 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely
on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle supporti. Remove the front roadwheeis. 2 Wording on one side of the vehicle, puth the caliper piston into its bore by pulling the caliper outwards. If necessary, press the piston back into its bore using a large G-clamp or a piston retraction tool. Keep a careful eye on the level of brake llufd in Ihe I reservoir as you do this - ensure that the
level
I does not rise above the MAX marking. 3 Whore applicable, release the locking dp and remove the pad wear indicator
wiring end
brake fluid line from the bracket at Ihe
base of
the suspension strut (see illustrations).
Petrol models without ABS 4 Remove the locking clip and exlracl the lower guide pin from the caliper (see illustrations) 5 Pivot the caliper body upwards and support In position with a length of wire or a cabie-fc. Avoid straining the hydraulic hose.
2,4a Remove the locking clip ... 2.4b ... and extract the lower guide pin from the caliper (petrol models without ABS)

9*4 Braking system
3.5 Unscrew the caliper upper guide pin bolt and remove tho caliper body (torn the bracket
3 Front brake caliper -removal, overhaul and refitting ^

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Warning: Before starting work, refer to the warnings at the beginning of Sections 2 and 11 concerning the dangers of handling asbestos dust and hydraulic fluid.
Removal 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, then |ack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands {see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the appropriate front roadwheel. 2 Remove the brake pads as described In Section 2. 3 To minimise fluid loss dunng the following operations, remove the master cylinder reservoir cap. then
tig hi en
it down onto a piece of polythene, to obtain an airtight seat. Alternatively, use a brake hose clamp to seal off the flexible hose running to the caliper.

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Warning: Do not use an ordinary G-clamp or mole grips for this purpose, as these can easily damage the hydraulic hose Internally, possibly leading to failure. 4 Clean the area surrounding the brake hose union, then slacken ft using a ring spanner. It won't be possible to separate the union completely without twisting the hose ai this slage.
3.7 Unscrew the two securing bolts (arrowed) and remove the caliper mounting bracket from the hub carrier
5 On petrol models without ABS, unscrew the caliper upper guide pin bolt using a hex bit or Allen key and remove the caliper body from the bracket (see illustration). 6 Hold the brake hose and rotate the caliper to unscrew the hose union from the caliper body. Cover the open ends of the union and the caliper fluid inlet, to prevent dirt Ingress. Alternatively, Ihe flexible brake hose may be separated from the rigid brake pipe, at the bracket mounted on the Inner wheel arch. 7 If desired, the caliper mounting bracket can be removed from the hub carrier after unscrewing ihe two securing bolts (see Illustration) but note that locking compound must be applied to the bolt threads on refitting.
Overhaul Note: Before commencing work, ensure that the appropriate caliper overhaul kit
Ss
obtained. 8 With the caliper on the bench, wipe away all (races of dust and dirt, but avoid inhaling the dust, as It
Is
a health hazard. 9 Place a small block of wood between the caliper body and tho piston, to act as padding. Remove the piston by applying a Jet of low pressure compressed air (such as that pioduced by a tyre foot pump) to the fluid inlel port.

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Warning: Protect your hands and eyes when using compressed air In this manner • brake fluid moy be ejected under pressure when the pisfon pops out of Its bore. 10 Peel the dusi seal from the piston, then use a soft, blunt instrument (ie not a screwdriver) to extract the piston seal from the caliper bore. 11 Thoroughly clean all components, U9tng only methylated spint or clean hydraulic fluid, Never use mineral-based solvents such as petrol or paraffin, which will attack Ihe hydraulic system rubber components. 12 The caliper piston seal, the dust seal and the bleed nipple dust cap, a/e oniy available as part of a seat kit. Since the manufacturers recommend that the piston seal and dust seal are renewed whenever they are disturbed, all of these components should be discarded on disassembly and new ones fitted on reassembly as a matter of course. 13 Carefully examine all parts of the caliper assembly, looking for signs of wear or damage. In particular, the cylinder bore and piston must be free from any signs of scratches, corrosion or wear. If there is any doubt about ihe condition of any part of the caliper, the relevant port should be renewed Note that the piston surface is plated, and must not be polished with emery or similar abrasives to remove corrosion or scratches. In addition, the pistons are matched to the caliper bores and can only be renewed as a part of a complete caliper assembly. 14 Check that the threads in the caliper body and the mounting bracket are in good condition, Check that both guide pins are
undamaged, and (when cleaned) a reasons^' tight sliding fit In the mounting bracket bores. 15 UsecompressedairtOblow clear the IkuJ passages. Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed
air.
16 Before commencing reassembly, en$vr« that all components are spotlessly-clean
and
dry. 17 Soak the new piston seal m clean hydraulic fluid, and fit it to the groove
In
tftt cylinder bore, using your fingers only (rift tools) to manipulate it into place. 18 Fit the new dust seal inner ftp to tne cylinder groove, smear clean hydraulic Hud over the piston and caliper cylinder
bore, and
twist ihe pfaton into the dust seal. Press tne piston squarely Into the cylinder, then sildt the dust seal outer lip to tho groove in we piston
Refitting 19 Where applicable, refit the caliper mounting bracket to thB hub earner. Ccaitto threads ol the mounting bolts with locking compound, then tighten them to the speclfed torque. 20 Hold the brake hose and rotate Ihe calip* to screw the hose union back Into the caliper body. 21 On petrol models without ABS, place the caliper In position on the bracket and tighter the caliper upper guide pin bolt to the specified torque. 22 Relit ihe brake pads as described m Section 2. 23 On all models, tighten the brake hose-to-callper union securely. 24 Check that the caliper slides smoothly
on
its guide pins. 25 Where applicable, remove the polytbste from the master oyhnder rasarvoir cap, or remove tho clomp from the fluid hose, ai applicable. 26 Bleed tho hydraulic fluid circuit as desenbed m Section 11. Note that if rootMf part of the system has been disturbed, < should only be necessary to bleed tha relevant front circuit, 27 Depress the brake pedal repeatedly to bring ihe pads into contact with ihe brake disc, and ensure that normal pedal
pressure is
restored. 28 Refit the roadwheel, and lower tha veti'cfc lo ihe ground.
4 Brake disc -
inspection,
removal
and
refitting
Inspection 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jaefcup the front of the car and support It securely
oft
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle
support1,.
Remove the front roadwhesls.
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Braking system 9®5
2 Rotate the brake disc by hand and examine the whole of the surface area swept by the brake pads, on both sides ot the disc. Note: /( will bo necessary to remove the front brake pads to allow an adequate inspection of the disc's rear surface; refer to Section 2 tor details. 3 Typically, the disc surface will have a polished appearance and should be free from heavy scoring. Smooth rippling is produced by normal operation and does not indicate excessive wear. Deep scoring and cracks, however, are indications of more serious damage in need of correction. 4 If deep scoring Is discovered, it may be possible to have the disc reground to restore the surface, depending on the extent of the damage. To determine whether this is a feasible course of action, it will be necessary to measure the thickness of the disc, as described later. 5 Check the whole surface of the disc for cracks, particularly around the roadwheel bolt holes. A cracked disc mutt be renewed. 6 A ridge of rust and brake dust at the inner and outer edges of the disc, beyond the pad contact area is normal - this can be scraped tway quite easily. 7 Raised ridges caused by the brake pads eroding the disc material, however, are an indication of excessive wear. If close examination reveals such ridges, the oiicknoss of the disc must be measured, to usess whether it is still fit for use. 8 To measure the thickness of the disc, take readings at several points on the surface using a micrometer. In the area swept by the brake pads (see Illustration). Include any points where the disc has been scored: align me Jaws of the micrometer with the deepest ares of scoring, to get a true indication of the extent of the wear. Compare these ineasurements with the limits listed in the Specifications. If the disc has worn below its minimum thickness, at any point, it must be renewed. 9 If the discs are suspected of causing brake luddor, check the disc runout, using one of
me
following methods: Runout measurement -
DTI
gauge method 10 Refit the four roadwheel bolts, together
w.1h
one M14 plain washer per stud • this will ensure adequate disc to hub contact. Tighten te studs to 5 Nm (4 Ibf ft). 11 Clamp the DTI gauge to a stand and attach the stand, preferably via a magnetic oase. to the strut mounting bracket. Align the jauge so that its pointer rests upon the area of the dtsc swept by the brake pads, on an arc i mm from the outer edge of tho disc (soe illustration). 12 Zero the gauge and slowly rotate the disc trough one revolution, observing tho pointer rcovement. Note the maximum deflection recorded and compare the figure with that >«ted In Specifications.
4.8 Measuring brake disc thickness with a micrometer
Runout measurement -feeler blade method 13 Use the feeler blades to measure the clearance between the disc and a convenient fixed point, such as the disc backplate. Rotate the disc and measure the variation in clearance at several points around the disc, Compare the maximum figure with that listed in Specifications. 14 If the disc runout Is outside of its specified tolerance, first check that the hub Is not worn (see Steering and suspension check in Chapter 1A or 1B). If the hub is In good condition, remove the disc (as described later in this Section), rotate it through 180° and refit it. This may improve the seating and eradicate Ihe excessive runout. 15 If the runout is still unacceptable, then It may be possible to restore the disc by regrinding; consult your Fiat dealer or a machine shop for a professional opinion - it may prove more economical to purchase a new disc. If the disc cannot be reground, then it must be renewed.
Removal 16 Mark the relationship between the disc and the hub with chalk or a marker pen, to allow correct refitting. 17 To allow the disc to be removed, undo the two bolts securing (he brake caliper mounting bracket to the hub carrier (see illustration 3.7). Withdraw the brake caliper and mounting bracket assembly, complete with brake pads, from the hub carrier, and hang it from a rigid point on the suspension, using v/lre or a
4.18a Slacken and remove the disc locating studs ...
4.11 Brake disc runout measurement - DTI gauge method
cable-tie. Oo not allow it to dangle freely as this will strain the brake hose. 18 Slacken and remove the disc locating stud(s). Support the disc as you do this and lift it off as it becomes free (see illustrations). 19 Remove the polished glaze from the surface of the disc with sand/emery paper. Use small, circular motions to avoid producing a directional finish on the surface.
Refitting 20 If a new disc Is being fitted, remove the protective coating from the surface U9ing an appropriate solvent. 21 Locate Ihe disc on ihe hub so that the roadwheel bolt and locating stud holes are all correctly lined up; use the alignment marks made during removal. If the disc is being removed in an attempt to improve seating and hence runout, turn the disc through 180° and then refit it. 22 Refit the locating stud and retaining screw, tightening them securely. 23 Re-check the disc runout, using one of the methods described earlier in this Section. 24 Refil the brake caliper and mounting bracket assembly to the hub carrier. Coat the threads of the mounting bolts with locking compound, then tighten them to the specified torque. 25 Depress the brake pedal several times to bnng the brake pads into contact with the disc. 26 Refit the roadwheel and lower the vehicle to the ground. Tighten the roadwheel bolts to the specified torque. 27 Check the hydraulic fluid level as described in Weekly checks.
4,18b ... and lift off the disc as It becomes free

9*10 Braking system
10.6 Disconnect the relevant handbrake inner cable (arrowed) from the draw bar 6 Working inside ihe vehicle, remove Ihe screws and lift off the handbrake lever trim panel (refer to Section 9 for more detail). At the base of the handbrake lever, full/ slacken off the handbrake adjusting screw and locknut, to remove oil tension from the cable draw bar, then disconnect the relevant handbrake inner cable from the cable draw bar (see illustration) 7 Release the cable grommet from tho floor-pan, then withdraw the cable from the vehicle.
Refitting 8 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, bearing in mind the following points: a) Ensure that the cables are securely fastened In the clips on the floorpan beetshield and lower suspension a/m. b) On completion, check the handbrake adiustment, as described in Section 9.
11 Hydraulic system -bleeding

A


Warning: Hydraulic fluid is poisonous; wash off immediately and thoroughly In the case ot skin contact, and seek immediate medical advice if any fluid is swallowed, or gets into the eyes. Certain types of hydraulic fluid are Inflammable, and may ignite when allowed into contact with hot components. When servicing any hydraulic system, it Is safest to assume that the fluid IS inflammable, and to take precautions
11.17 Bleeding a rear brake line
against the risk of fire as though it is petrol that Is being handled. Hydraulic fluid is also an effective paint stripper, and will attack plastics; If any is spilt, It should be washed off immediately, using copious quantities of fresh water. Finally, it Is hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture from the air) • old fluid may be contaminated and unfit tor further use. Whan topping-up or renewing the fluid, always use the recommended type, and ensure that It comes from a freshly-opened sealed container.
General 1 The correct operation of any hydraulic system is only possible after removing all air from the components and circuit; and this Is achieved by bleeding the syslem. 2 During the bleeding procedure, add only clean, unused hydraulic fluid of the recommended type; never re-use fluid that has already been bled from the system. Ensure that sufficient fluid is available before starting work. 3 If there is any possibility of incorrect fluid being already in the system, the brake com-ponents and circuit must be Flushed completely with uncontamlnated, correct fluid, and new seals should be fitted throughout the system. 4 If hydraulic fluid has been lost from the system, or air has ontered because of a leak, ensure that the fault is cured before proceeding further. 5 Park Ihe vehicle on level ground, switch off the engine and select first or reverse gear (or P), then chock the wheels and release the handbrake. 6 Cheek that all pipes and hoses are secure, unions tight and bleed screws closed. Remove Ihe dust caps (whore applicable), and clean any dirt from around the bleed screws. 7 Unscrew the master cylinder reservoir cap, and top Ihe master cylinder reservoir up to the MAX level line; refit the cap loosely. Rememoer to maintain the fluid level at least above the MIN level line throughout the procedure, otherwise there is a risk of further air entering the syslem. 8 There are a number of one-man. do-It-yourself brake bleeding kits currently available from motor accessory shops. It is recommended that one of these kits is used whenever possible, as they greatly simplify the bleeding operation, and also reduce the risk of expelled air and fluid being drawn back into the system. If such a kit is not available, the basic (two-man) method must be used, which is described in detail below. 9 If a kit Is to be used, prepare the vehicle as described previously, and follow the kit manufacturer's instructions, as Ihe procedure may vary slightly according to the type being used; generally, they are as outlined below in the relevant sub-section. 10 Whichever method is used, the same sequence must be followed (paragraphs 11 and 12) to ensure Ihe removal of all air from the system.
Bleeding sequence 11 If Ihe system has been only
partial!?
disconnected, and suitable precautions wwe taken to minimise fluid loss, it should be necessary to bteod only that part of the system (le the primary or secondary circuit). 12 If the complete system Is to be bled, then It should be done working in the following sequence: a) Left-hand rear wheel b) Right-hand front wheel. c) Right-hand rear wheel. d) Left-hand front wheel. Note: When bleeding the rear brakes
on a
vehicle ritled with load proportioning valves: i the rear of the vehicle has been jacked
up to
allow access to ihe brake wheel cylinder,
tha
rear suspension must be compressed
(eg
raising the beam axle with a trolley
jack) so
that the load proportioning valves
remain open
throughout the bleeding process.
Bleeding -basic (two~man) method 13 Collect a clean glass jar, a suitable length of plastic or rubber tubing which Is a light fit over the bleed screw, end a ring spanner lo
Rt
the screw. The help of an assistant will also tie required. 14 Remove the dust cap from the first screw In the sequence if not already done. Fit a suitable spanner and tube to the screw, place the other end of Ihe tube In the jar. and
pour in
sufficient fluid to cover the end of the tube. 15 Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir fluid level is maintained at least above the
MIN
level line throughout the procedure. 16 Have the assistant fully depress the brefce pedal several times to build up pressure, then maintain it on the final downstroke. 17 While pedal pressure is maintained, unscrew ihe bleed screw (approximately one turn) and allow the compressed fluid and orto flow into the
Jar,
The assistant should maintah pedal pressure, following the pedal down to the floor if necessary, and should not rrtaase Ihe pedal until instructed to do so. When ihe flow stops, tighten the bleed screw again, have the assistant retease the pedal sfowty, and recheck the reservoir fluid level (see Illustration). 18 Repeat Ihe steps given in paragraphs 16 end 17 until the fluid emerging from the bled screw is free from air bubbles. If Ihe master cylinder has been drained and refilled,
and
at Is being bled from the first screw In the sequence, allow approximately five seconds between cycles for the master cylinder passages to refill. 19 When no more air bubbles appear, tighter, the bleed screw securely, remove Ihe tube arc spanner, and refit the dust cap (where applicable). Do not overtighten the bleed sew. 20 Repeat the procedure on tho remaining screws In the sequence, until ail air is removed from the system, and the brake pedal feels firm again.

9*12 Braking system
master cylinder mounting nuts, and tighten them securely. 10 Wipe clean the brake pipe unions, then refit them to the correct master cylinder ports, as noted before removal, and lighten the union nuts securely. 11 Refill tha master cylinder reservoir with new fluid, and bleed the complete hydraulic system as described In Section 11. 12 Check the operation of the braking system thoroughly.
13 Hydraulic pipes and hoses - % renewal S§

A


Warning: Before starting work, refer to the warning at the beginning of Section 11 concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, 1 If any pipe or hose is to be renewed, minimise fluid loss by first removing the master cylinder reservoir cap. then tighten the cap down onto a piece of polythene to obtain
an airtight seal. Alternatively, flexible hoses can be sealed, If required, using a proprietary brake hose clamp; metal brake pipe unions can be plugged (if care Is taken not to allow dirt into the system) or capped immediately they are disconnected. Place a wad of rag under any union that is to be disconnected, to catch any spilt fluid-2 If a flexible hose Is to be disconnected, unscrew the brake pipe union nut before removing the spring clip which seeurea the hose to its mounting bracket. 3 To unscrew the union nuts, ll is preferable lo obtain a brake pipe spanner of the correct size; these are available from most large molor accessory shops. Failing this, a close-fitting open-ended spanner will be required, though if the nuts are tight or corroded, their flats may be rounded-off if the spanner slips. In such a case, a self-locking wrench is often the only way to unscrew a stubborn union, but It follows that Ihe pipe and the damaged nuts must be renewed on reassembly. Always clean a union and surrounding area before disconnecting it If disconnecting a compo-
nent with more than one union, make a carefJ note of the connections before disturbing
any
of them. 4 If a brake pipe Is to be renewed, it can b« obtained, cut to length and with the union nuts and end flares in place, from Fiat dealers. All that is then necessary is to bend It to shape, following the line of the original, baton fitting It to the vehicle. Alternatively, most motor accessory shops can make up bra Ha pipes from kits, bul this requires very carefii measurement of the original, to ensure (hat the replacement is of the correct length. Tha safest answer is usually to take the original lo the shop as a pattern. 5 On refitting, do not overtighten the union nuts. It is not necessary to exercise brute force to obtain a sound joint. 6 Ensure that the pipes and hoses an correctly routed, with no kinks, and that they are secured in the clips or brackets provided. After fitting, remove the polythene from lbs reservoir, and bleed the hydraulic system
88
described In Section 11. Wash off any split fluid, and check carefully for fluid leaks.