1997 FIAT PUNTO Heating

Contents
REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL
Engine and associated systems SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures Page 2A«1 DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures Page 2B«1 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures Page 2C«1 Engine removal and overhaul procedures Page 2D«1 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems Page 3»1 Fuel system - single-point petrol injection models Page 4A«1 Fuel system - multi-point petrol injection models Page 4B«1 Fuel system - diesel models Page 4C»1 Exhaust and emission control systems Page 4D*1 Starting and charging systems Page SA«1 Ignition system - petrol models Page SB«1 Preheating system - diesel models Page 5C>1
Transmission Clutch Page 6»1 Manual transmission Page 7A«1 Automatic transmission Page 7B*1 Driveshafts Page 8*1
Brakes and suspension Braking system Page 9*1 Suspension and steering Page 10-1
Body equipment Bodywork, trim and Fittings Page 11«1 Body electrical systems Page 12*1
Wiring diagrams Page 12»13
REFERENCE
Dimensions and weights Page REF«1 Conversion factors Page REF*2 Buying spare parts Page REF»3 Vehicle identification Page REF«3 General repair procedures Page REF«4 Jacking and vehicle support Page REF»5 Disconnecting the battery Page REF«5 Tools and working facilities Page REF-6 MOT test checks Page REF»8 Fault finding Page REF»12 Glossary of technical terms Page REF»20
index Page REF»24
expert22 rjijr http://rutracker.org

o»i4 Weekly checks
Tyre condition and pressure
l( is very important that tyres are In good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre (allure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style • harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will ail produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating' the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing ail four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded In the tread before they penetrate the tyro to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that
r
the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so (hat its point of penetration is marked. Then Immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage (n the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewails. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the Inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage, Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by •kerbing"1 whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel Is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.
New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to re-balance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will v/ear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is fett only through the steering, then II Is likely that |ust the front wheels need balancing. H, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car. the rear wheels could be out of balance. Whoel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.
-j Tread Depth • visual check The original tyres have tread wear safety bands {8}, which wiU appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewail (A).
Tyre tread wear patterns
2 Tread Depth * manual check Alternatively, tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.
2 Tyre Pressure Check Check the tyre pressures regularly with the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre pressures immediately alter the vehicle has been used, or an inaccurate setting will result Tyre pressures are shown on page 0*18.
Shoulder Wear Centre Wear Uneven Wear
Underinflatlon {wear an both sides) Under-lnflatton will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side] Repair or renew suspension parts Hard cornering Reduce speed!
Overinflation Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyro tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing. Check and adjust pressures
It you sometimes have (o inflate your car's tyres to the higher pressures specified tor maximum load or sustained high speed, don't forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.
Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most lyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or 'tracking") for a modest charge. Incorrect camber or castor Repair or renew suspension parts Malfunctioning suspension Repair or renew suspension parts Unbalanced wheel Balance tyres Incorrect toe setting Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of I he treed which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
7.13 Positioning of piston rings (petrol engine) 11 Scrape away all traces of carbon from the top of the piston. A hand-held wire brush (or a piece of fine emery cloth) can be used, once the majority ot the deposits have been scraped away. 12 Remove the carbon from the ring grooves In the piston, using an old ring. Break the ring in half to do this (be careful not to cut your fingers - piston rings are sharp). Be careful to remove only the carbon deposits • do not remove any metal, end do not nick or scratch the sides of the ring grooves. 13 Once the deposits have been removed, clean the piston/connecting rod assembly with paraffin or o suitable solvent, and dry thoroughly. Make sure that the oil return holes In the ring grooves are clear. Fit the rings to their respective grooves meking sure they are positioned the correct way round where applicable (see illustration). 14 If the pistons and cylinder bores are not
7.22 Prising out the gudgeon pin retaining circilps damagea or worn excessively, and if the cylinder block does not need to be rebored. the original pistons can be refitted. Normal piston wear shows up as even vertical wear on the piston thrust surfaces, and slight looseness of the top ring In its groove. New piston rings should always be used when the engine is reassembled. 15 Carefully inspect each piston for cracks around the skirt, around the gudgeon pin holes, and at the piston nng lands (between the ring grooves). 16 Look for scoring and scuffing on the ptston skirt, holes in the piston crown, and burned areas at the edge of the crown. If the skirt is scored or scuffed, the engine may have been suffering from overheating, end/or abnormal combustion which caused excessively high operating temperatures. The cooling and lubrication systems should be checked thoroughly. Scorch marks on the sides of the pistons show that blow-by has occurred. A hole in the piston crown, or burned areas at the edge of the piston crown, Indicates that abnormal combustion has been occurring. If any of the above problems exist, the causes must be investigated and corrected, or the
7.26a Piston to connecting rod assembly (petrol engine) 1 Piston grade (A) end directional arrow on piston crown (towards timing belt end) 2 Connecting rod/cap matching numbers 3 Gudgeon pin offset in piston (0.9 to 1.1 mm) Arrow indicates direction of crankshaft rotation
7.26b Piston to connecting rod assembly (diesel engine) 1 Piston crown
damage will occur again. The causes may Include Incorrect Ignition/injection pump timing, or a faulty injector (as applicable). 17 Corrosion of the piston, in the form ol pitting, indicates that coolant has been leaking into the combustion chamber and/or the crankcase. Again, the cause must be corrected, or the problem may persist In the rebuilt engine. 16 Examine each connecting rod carefully for signs of damage, such as cracks around the big-end and small-end bearings. Check that the rod is not bent or distorted, Damage is highly unlikely, unless the engine has been seized or badly overheated. Detailed checking of the connecting rod assembly can only be earned out by an engine repair specialist with the necessary equipment. 19 Although not essential. It is highly recommended that the big-end cap bolts are renewed as a complete set prior lo refitting. 20 On petrol engines piston and/or con-necting rod renewal should be entrusted to an engine repair specialist, who will have the necessary tooling to remove and install the interference fit gudgeon pins. 21 On diesel engines, the gudgeon pins are of the floating type, secured in position by two circlips. On these engines, the pistons and connecting rods can be separated as follows. 22 Using a small fiat-bladed screwdriver, prise out ihe circlips, and push out the gudgeon pin (see illustration). Identify the piston and rod to ensure correct reassembly. Discard the circlips - new ones must be used on refitting. 23 Examine the gudgeon pin and connecting rod small-end bearing bush for signs of wear or damage. Bush renewal should be entrusted to an engine overhaul specialist. 24 The connecting rods themselves should not be In need of renewal, unless seizure or some other major mechanical failure has occurred. Check the alignment of the connecting rods visually, and if the rods are not straight, take ihem to an engine overhaul specialist for a more detailed check. 25 Examine all components, and obtain any new parts as necessary. If new pistons are purchased, they will be supplied complete with gudgeon pins and circlips. 26 On reassembly position the piston on the connecting rod as shown (see Illustrations),
Injection pump location Connecting rod/cap matching numbers 7.28c Piston crown on diesel engines

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
failure, (he cause must be corrected (where applicable) before the engine is reassembled, to prevent it from happening again. 3 When examining the bearing shells, remove them from the cylinder block/crankcase, Ihe main bearing caps, the connecting rods and the connecting rod big-end bearing caps. Lay them out on a clean surface in the same general position as their location in the engine. This will enable you to match any bearing problems with the corresponding crankshaft journal. Do not touch any shell's bearing surface with your fingers while checking it. 4 Din and other foreign matter gets into the engine in a variety of ways. It may be left in the engine during assembly, or It may pass through fillers or the crankcase ventilation system. It may get into the oil, and from there into the bearings. Metal chips from machining operations and normal engine wear are often present. Abrasives are sometimes left In engine components after reconditioning, especially when parts are not thoroughly cleaned using the proper cleaning methods. Whatever the source, these foreign objects often end up embedded In the soft bearing material, and are easily recognised. Large particles will not embed in the bearing, and will score or gouge the bearing and journal. The best prevention for this cause of bearing failure Is to clean all parts thoroughly, and keep everything spotlessly-clean during engine assembly. Frequent and regular engine oil and filter changes are also recommended. 5 Lack of lubrication (or lubrication breakdown) has a number of interrelated causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil), overloading (which squeezes the oil from the bearing face) and oil leakage (from excessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump or high engine speeds) all contribute to lubrication
breakdown. Blocked oil passages, which can be the result of misaligned oil holes in a bearing shell, will also oil-starve a bearing, and destroy it. When lack of lubrication is the cause of bearing failure, the bearing materiel is wiped or extruded from the steel backing of Ihe bearing. Temperatures may increase to the point where the steel backing turns blue from overheating. 6 Driving habits can have a definite effect on bearing life. Full-throttle, low-speed operation (labouring ihe engine) puts very high loads on bearings, tending to squeeze out the oil film. These loads cause the beanngs to flex, which produces fine cracks in the bearing face (fatigue failure). Eventually, the bearing material will loosen in pieces, and tear away from Ihe steel backing. 7 Short-distance driving leads to corrosion of bearings, because insufficient engine heat is produced to drive off the condensed water and corrosive gases. These products collect in the engine oil, forming acid and sludge. As the oil Is carried to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and corrodes the bearing material. 8 Incorrect bearing installation during engine assembly will lead to bearing failure as well. Tight-fitting bearings leave insufficient bearing running clearance, and will result in oil starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped behind a bearing shell result in high spots on the bearing, which lead to failure. 9 Do not touch any shell's bearing surface with your fingers during reassembly: there is a risk of scratching the delicate surface, or of depositing particles of dirt on ft. 10 As mentioned at the beginning of this Section, the bearing shells should be renewed as a matter of course during engine overhaul; to do otherwise is false economy.
Selection 11 Main and big-end bearings are available in standard sizes and a range of undersizes to suit reground crankshafts • refer to the Specifications for details. The engine reconditioner will select the correct bearing shells for a machined crankshaft. 12 The running clearances can be checked when the crankshaft is refitted with its new bearings.
11 Engine overhaul -reassembly sequence
1 Before reassembly begins, ensure that all new parts have been obtained, and that all necessary tools are available. Read through the entire procedure to familiariss yourself with the work Involved, and to ensure that ail items necessary for reassembly of the engine are at hand. In addition to all normal tools and materials, thread-locking compound will be needed. A tube of sealant will also be required for the joint faces that are fitted without gaskets.
2 In order to save time and avoid problems, engine reassembly can be carried out in the following order: a) Crankshaft (Section 12). b) Piston/connecting rod assemblies (Section 7). c) Oil pump (see Part A, B or C - as applicable). d) Sump (see Pan A, BorC-as applicable). e) Flywheel/driveplate (see Part A, B or C • as applicable). 1) Cylinder head (see Part A B or C - as applicable). g) Coolant pump (see Chapter
3)
h) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets, and timing belt (See Part A, B or C- as applicable). I) Engine external components, 3 At this stage, ail engine components should be absolutely clean and dry, with all faults repaired. The components should be laid out on a completely clean work surface.
12 Crankshaft- % refitting and main bearing S running clearance check ^
Crankshaft - initial refitting 1 Crankshaft refitting Is the first stage ol engine reassembly following overhaul. At this point, it is assumed that the crankshaft, cylinder block/crankcase and beanngs have been cleaned, inspected and reconditioned or renewed. 2 Place the cylinder block on a clean, level work surface, with the crankcase facing upwards. Where necessary, unbolt the bearing caps and lay them out in order to ensure correct reassembly. If they are still in place, remove the bearing shells from the caps and the crankcase and wipe out the inner surfaces wilh a clean rag - they musl be kept spotlessly clean. 3 Clean the rear surface of the new bearing shells with a rag and fit ihem on Ihe bearing saddles. Ensure that the orientation lugs on the shells engage with the recesses in the saddles and lhat the oil holes are correctly aligned. Do not hammer or otherwise force the bearing shells into place. It Is critically important that the surfaces of the bearings ore kept free from damage and contamination. 4 Give the newly fitted bearing shells and the crankshaft journals a final clean with a rag. Check that the oil holes In the crankshaft are free from dirt, as any left here will become embedded In the new bearings when Ihe engine is first started. 5 Carefully lay the crankshaft In the crankcase, taking care not to dislodge the bearing shells (see illustration}.
Main bearing running clearance check 8 When Ihe crankshaft and bearings are refitted, a clearance must exist between them

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
12.18 Angle-tightening the main bearing cap bolts (petrol engine)
12.Ida Application area for silicone Instant gasket on crankshaft rear oil seal housing (petrol engine) 12.19b Refitting the crankshaft rear oil seal housing (petrol engine)
19 Fit a new oil seal to the crankshaft rear oil seal housing. Apply grease to the seal lips. On 1108 cc petrol engines a conventional gasket Is not used at the oil seal retainer joint face, but a 3 mm diameter bead of RTV (Instant) silicone gasket must be applied as shown -allow at least one hour 1or the gasket to cure before oil contacts it. On all other engines a gasket Is fitted Securely tighten the housing bolts (see Illustrations). 20 Check that Ihe crankshaft rotates freely by turning It by hand. If resistance Is fell, re-check the running clearances, as described above. 21 Carry out a check of the crankshaft endfloat as described at the beginning of Section 8. If the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft have been checked and new thrust washers hove been fitted, then the endfioat should be within specification.
22 Refit the pistons and connecting rods as described in Section 7. 23 Refit the flywheeVdriveplate, and-vibration plate (16-valvo engines), oil pump and pick-up tube, and sump with reference to the relevant Sections of Parts A, B or C of this Chapter.
13 Engine -initial start-up after overhaul and reassembly
1 With the engine refitted In the vehicle, double-check the engine oil and coolant levels. Make a final check that everything has been reconnected, and that there are no tools or rags left In the engine compartment.
Petrol engine models 2 Remove the spark plugs, then disable the
ignition system by disconnecting the LT wiring plug to the ignition colls. 3 Turn the engine on the starter until Ihe oi pressure warning light goes out. Refit ihe spark plugs, and reconnect the LT wiring.
Diesel engine models 4 Disconnect tho wiring from the stop solenoid on the Injection pump, then turn the engine on the starter motor until the oil pressure warning light goes out. Reconnect ihe wire to the stop solenoid. 6 Fully depress the accelerator pedal, turn tho ignition key to its first position and wait tor HHJ preheating warning light to go out.
All models 6 Start the engine, noting that this may take i little longer than usual, due to the fuel system components having been disturbed.
12.19c On diesel engines use a screwdriver to prise out the rear oil seal 12.19d Locate the new oil soalln the housing (diosel engine)... 12.19e ... and use a block of wood to drive it in
12.19f On Diesel engines fit the gasket to the cylinder block ... 12.19g ... then locate the rear oli seal housing... 12.19h ... and Insert the bolts

3*1
Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
Contents
Air conditioning system - general Information and precautions .... 9 Mr conditioning system components * removal and refitting 10 Antifreeze mixture See Chapter 1A or 1B Auxiliary drivebell(s) check and renewal See Chapter 1A or IB Coolant level check See Weekly checks Coolant pump - removal, Inspection and refitting 7 Coolant renewal See Chapter 1A or 1B
Degrees of difficulty
Cooling fan switch - testing, removal and refitting 6 Cooling system hoses • disconnection and renewal 2 Electric cooling fan(s) - testing, removal and refitting 5 General information and precautions 1 Heater/ventilation components • removal and refitting 8 Radiator - removal, inspection and refitting 3 Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting 4

Easy,
suitable foe JS^, novice
with
little experience ^
Fairly
easy,
sutable for beginner witti
some experience
^
Faiilydifltctit,
suitable
for competent
DIY mechanic
^

Difficult,
sutable for & experienced DIY « mechanic ^
VerydMlcult, ^
suitable
for
expert DIY
« or professional
Specifications
General Expansion tank relief valve opening pressure 0.96 bar Coolant pump Impeller-to-casing clearance: Diesel engine models 0.53 to 1.37 mm Petrol engine models 0.4 to 0.9 mm
Thermostat Diesel engine models: Opening temperature: Starts to open 78 to 82*0 Fully open 88°C Maximum valve travel (approximate) 7.5 mm Petrol engine models: Opening temperature: 1108 cc and 1242 cc (8-valve) engines: Starts to open 85 to 89°C Fully open 100°C 1242 cc (16-valve) engines: Starts to open 81 to 85°C Fully open 103°C Maximum valve lift (approximate) 7.5 mm
Electric cooling fan Petrol engine models with single speed fan: Cut-in temperature 90to94°C Cut-out temperature B5 to 89°C Diesel engine models with twin speed fan: Cut-In temperature: Primary fan 86 to 90® C Secondary fan 90 to 94°C Cut-out temperature: Primary fan 81to85°C Secondary fan 85 to 89°C
Torque wrench settings Nm tbfft Coolant pump pulley securing bolts (diesel engine models) 23 17 Coolant pump securing bolts: Diesel engine models 23 17 Petrol engine models 8 6 Coolant pump securing nuts (petrol engine models) 10 7

3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
1 General information and precautions
Genera/ Information The engine cooling/cabin heating system is ol pressurised type, comprising a coolant pump driven by the camshaft timing belt (petrol engine models) or auxiliary drlvebelt (diesel engine models), a crossllow radiator, a coolant expansion tank, an electric cooling fan, a thermostat, heater matrix, and all associated hoses and switches. The system functions as follows: Ihe coolant pump circulates cold water around the cylinder block and head passages, and through the Inlet manifold, heater matrix and throttle body to the thermostat housing. When the engine Is cold, the thermostat remains closed and prevents coolant from circulating through the radiator. When the coolant reaches a predetermined temperature, the thermostat opens, and the coolant passes through the top hose to the radiator. As the coolant circulates through the radiator, it is cooled by the in-rush of air when the car is in forward motion. The airllow is supplemented by the action of the electric cooling fan. when necessary, As the temperature of the coolant in the radiator drops, it flows to the bottom of the radiator by convection, and passes out through the bottom hose to the coolant pump - the cycle is then repeatod, When the engine is at normal operating temperature, the coolant expands, and some of It is displaced into the expansion tank. Coolant collects In the tank, and ts returned to Ihe radiator when the system cools. On petrol engine models, the expansion tank is integrated into the side of the radiator. On diesel engine models, and certain petrol engine models with air conditioning, the tank is a separate unit, mounted on the right hand side of the engine compartment. On turbo diesel engine models, the coolant is also passed through a supplementary engine oil cooler, to assist In controlling the engine lubricant temperature. Tho electric cooling fan mounted in front of the radiator is controlled by a thermostatic switch. At a predetermined coolant temperature, the swilch/sensor actuates the tan lo provide additional airflow through the radiator, The switch cuts the electrical supply to the Ion when the coolant temperature has dropped below a preset threshold (see Specifications).
Precautions

A


Warning: Do not attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap, or to disturb any part of the cooling system, whlio the engine is hot, as then is a high risk of scalding, tf the expansion tank pressure cap must be removed before the
engine and radiator have fulty cooled (even though this is not recommended?, the pressure in the cooling system must first be relieved. Cover the cap with a thick layer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and slowly unscrew the pressuro cap until a hissing sound Is heard. When the hissing stops, indicating that the pressure has reduced, slowly unscrew the pressure cap until it can be removed; If more hissing sounds are heard, wait until they have stopped before unscrewing the cap completely. At all times, keep your face well away from the pressure cap opening, and protect your hands.

A


Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come into contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately, with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or In a puddle In the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal tf ingested.

A


Warning: If the engine is hot, the electric cooling fan may start rotating even if the engine and ignition are switched off. Be careful to keep your hands, hair, and any loose clothing well clear when working In the engine compartment.
2 Cooling system hoses - f&> disconnection and renewal ^
1 The number, routing and pattern of hoses will vary according to model, but the same basic procedure applies. Before commencing work, make sure that the new hoses are to hand, along wilh new hose clips if needed, it is good practice to renew the hose clips at the same time as the hoses. 2 Drain the cooling system, as described in Chapter 1A or 18, saving the coolant if it is fit for re-use. Apply a little penetrating oil onto the hose clips if they are corroded. 3 Release the hose clips from the hose concerned. Three types of clip are used; worm-drive. spring and 'sardine-can'. The worm-drive clip is released by turning its screw anti-clockwise. The spring clip Is released by squeezing Its tags together with pliers, at the same time working the cbp away from the hose stub. The sardine-can clips are not re-usable, and are best cut off with snips or side cutters. 4 Unclip any wires, cables or other hoses which may be attached to the hose being removed. Make notes for reference when reassembling If necessary. 5 Release the hose from its stubs with a twisting motion. Be careful not to damage the stubs on deltcate components such as the radiator, or thermostat housings. If the hose Is stuck fast, the best course is often to cut it off using a sharp knife, but again be careful not to damage the stubs.
6 Before fitting the new hose, smear the stubs with washing-up liquid or a suitable rubber lubricant to aid fitting. Do not use oil or grease, which may attack the rubber. 7 Fit the hose clips over the ends of the hose, then fit the hose over its stubs. Work the hose Into position. When satisfied, locate and tighten the hose dips. 6 Refill the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 1B. Run the engine, and chock that there are no leaks. 9 Recheck the tightness of Ihe hose clips on any new hoses after a few hundred miles. 10 Top-up the coolant level if necessary.
3 Radiator -
removal,
inspection and refitting
Removal Note: If leakage is the reason for removing
the
radiator, bear In mind that minor leaks can often be cured using proprietary radiator sealing compound, with the radiator in situ. 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual). On diesel engine models, unbolt the relay bracket from the side of the battery tray. 2 Drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 1B. 3 On 1242 cc (16-valve) petrol engine models, remove the air cleaner and Inlet ducts as desenbed In Chapter 4B, 4 Slacken the clips and disconnect Ihe (op and bottom coolant hoses from the radiator. In addition on diesel engine models, and petrol engine models with a remotely-sited expansion tank, disconnect the expansion tank coolant hose from the right hand side ol the radiator (see Illustrations), 5 Unscrew the fixings and lift the plastic trim panel from above the front bumper Unscrew the bolt(s) securing tho radiator to the upper body panel (see Illustration). Note that the radiator and cooling fan assembly share the same upper mounting bolt. 6 Unbolt the cooling fan(e) and shroud assembly from Ihe rear ot the radiator, as described in Section 5.
3.4a Slacken the clip and disconnect the radiator bottom hose

3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
3.4b On diesel engine models, disconnect the expansion tank coolant hose from the radiator 3.5 Unscrew the bolts securing the radiator to the uppor body panel
3.8 Disengage the lower mountings studs from the onglne compartment lower crossmember
4.6a Removing the thermostat housing (petrol engine) 4.6b Thermostat housing location - Ignition distributor removed for clarity (petrol engine) ? Withdraw the mounting brackets (where applicable), and recover the upper mounting rubbers. 8 Carefully tilt the radiator back towards the engine, then disengage the lower mountings studs from the crossmember and lift the radiator from the engine compartment (see illustration). Recover the lower mounting rubbers if they are loose. Inspect/on 9II the radiator has been removed due to suspected blockage, it may be flushed out as descnbed in Chapter lAor 10. Clean dirt and debris from the radiator fins, using an air line fn which case, wear eye protection) or a soft Brush. Be careful, as the fins are sharp, and
can
also be easily damaged. ID If necessary, a radiator specialist can perform a flow test on the radiator, to establish whether an internal blockage exists. 11 A leaking radiator must be referred to a specialist for permanent repair. Do not attempt to weld or solder a leaking radiator, as damage to the plastic components may result. Note: In
an emergency,
minor
leaks
from the radiator can often be cured by using a suitable radiator seat'ng compound, in accordance with its manu-
facturer's
instructions, with the radiator in situ. 12 If the radiator is to be sent for repair or is
to
be renewed, remove all hoses (and where
applicable, the cooling fan switch). 13 Inspect Ihe radiator mounting rubbers, and renew them if necessary. Refitting 14 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in mind the following points: a) Ensure that the radiator lower lugs engage correctly with the lower mounting rubbers. b) On completion, refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A or IB.
Thermostat - Jk removal, testing and refitting #
General 1 The thermostat housing Is bolted to the left hand end of the cylinder head. The thermostat itself cannot be separated from the housing and can only be renewed as part of a complete assembly.
Removal 2 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A or 1B. 3 On diesel engine models, unbolt the wiring harness/fuel hose support bracket from the housing. On 1242 cc (16-valve) petrol engine
models, remove the air cleaner and inlet ducts as descnbed in Chapter 4B. 4 Slacken the clipfs) and detach the coolant hose(s) from the thermostai housing, Make a careful note of their orientation to aid refitting. 5 Where applicable, disconnect the wiring plug from the cooling fan switch and coolant temperature sensor, which are threaded into the thermostat cover. 6 Unscrew the securing bolts, and remove the thermostat housing from the cylinder head (see illustrations). If it sticks, tap it gently first on one side and then the other to free it - do not lever between the mating faces. Recover the remains of the old c,
4.6c Removing the thermostat housing (diesel engine)