1997 FIAT PUNTO warning
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2C*2 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures
4.4a Unbolt the engine oil dipstick tube...
3 Cylinder compression test
Note: A compression tester specifically designed for diesef engines must be used for this test. 1 When engine performance Is down, or if misfiring occurs, a compression test can provide diagnostic clues as to the engine's condition, If the lest is performed regularly, it can give warning of trouble before any other symptoms become apparent. 2 A compression tester specifically Intended for diesel engines must be used, because of the higher pressures involved. The Ie6ter is connected to an adapler which screws Into the glow plug or injector hole. It is unlikely to be worthwhile buying such a tester for occasional use. but it may be possible to borrow or hire one • if not. have the test performed by a garage. 3 Unless specific instructions to the contrary are supplied with the tester, observe the following points: 9) The battery must bo in a good state of charge, the air titter must be clean, end the engine should be at normal operating temperature. b) AH the in/actors or glow plugs should be removed before starting the lest. If removing the injectors, also remove the flame shield washers, otherwise they may be blown out. c) The stop solenoid must be disconnected.
4.4b ... and remove it from the rubber grommet in the oil pump housing
fo prevent the engine from running or fuel from being discharged. 4 There is no need to hold the accelerator pedal down during the test, because the diesel engine air inlet is not throttled. 5 The cause of poor compression Is less easy to establish on a diesel engine than on a petrol one. The effect of introducing oil into the cylinders (wet testing) Is not conclusive, because there is a risk that the oil will sit in the recess on the piston crown, instead of passing to the rings. However the following can be used as a rough guide to diagnosis. 6 All cylinders should produce very similar pressures; a difference of more than 5 bars between any two cylinders Indicates the existence of a fault. Note that the compression should build up quickly In a healthy engine; low compression on the first stroke, followed by gradually-increasing pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low compression reading on the first stroke, which does not build up during successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked hoad could also be the cause). 7 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders Is almost certainly due to the head gasket having blown between them: the presence of coolant In the engine oil will confirm this,
Leakdown test 8 A leakdown test measures the rate at which compressed air fed into the cylinder Is lost. It is an alternative to a compression test, and in many ways it is better, since the escaping air provides easy identification of where pressure loss is occurring (piston rings, valves or head gasket). 9 The equipment needed for leakdown testing is unlikely to be available to the home mechanic. If poor compression Is suspected, have the test performed by a suitably-equipped garage.
4 Timing belt and covers -removal
and
refitting
Note: Fiat specify the use of a spec/a/ timing belt tension measuring tool to correctly set the timing belt tension. If access to this equipment cannot be obtained, an approximate setting can be achieved using the method described below. If the method described is used, the tension must be checked using the special tool at the earliest possible opportunity. Do not drive the vehicle over large distances, or use high engine speeds, until the belt fens/on rs known to be correct. Refer to a Fiat dealer for advice.
General Information 1 The function of the timing belt is to drive the camshaft and fuel injection pump. Should the belt slip or break in service, the valve timing will be disturbed and piston-to-valve contact
will occur, resulting In serious engine damage. 2 The timing bolt should be renewed at the specified intervals (see Chapter 1B), or earlier If It is contaminated with oil. or If It is at al noisy In operation (a scraping noise due to uneven wear),
Removal 3 Set the engine at TDC on No 1 cylinder
as
described in Section 2. 4 Unbolt and remove tho engine oil dipstick tube and remove It from the rubber gromme! in the oil pump housing (see illustrations), 5 Before removing the timing belt check rts tension by turning the belt through 90" with finger and thumb midway between u* injection pump and camshaft sprockets. This will give you an Idea of the tension to apply when refitting, assuming the tension is already correct. Also note the position of the tensions pulley as a reference mark. 6 Release tho nut on the timing bea tensioner, move the tensioner pulley away from the belt and retlghten the nut to hold the pulley in the retracted position. 7 If the timing belt is to be re-used, use white paint or chalk to mark the direction of rotation on the belt (if markings do not already exist), then slip the belt off the camshaft, crankshaft and injection pump sprockets, and the idler and tensioner pulleys. Caution: If the belt appears to be In good condition and can be re-used, it fs essential that It Is refitted the same
wsy
round, otherwise accelerated wear will result, leading fo premature failure. 8 Check the timing belt carefully for any signs of uneven wear, splitting, or oil contamination. Pay particular attention to the roots of the teeth. Renew it if there is the slightest doutt about its condition. If the engine is undergoing an overhaul, renew the belt as a matter of course, regardless of its apparent conditio*. The cost of a new belt Is nothing compa/ed with the cost of repairs, should the belt freak in service. If signs of oil contamination art found, trace the source of the oil leak and rectify It. Wash down the engine timing baft area and all related components, to remove
sd
traces of oil.
Refitting 9 Before refitting, thoroughly clean the tknmg belt sprockets. Check that the tensioner and idler pulleys rotate freely, without any sign ol roughness. If necessary, renew them as described in Section 5. 10 Ensure that the crankshaft, camshaft and injection pump sprockets are still at their TDC positions as described In Section 2. 11 Engage the timing belt with the crankshaft sprocket, then locate it around the idler pufiey and onto the Injection pump sprocket making sure that it is kept taught. Continue to locate! around the camshaft sprocket and finally around Ihe tensioner pulley (see Illustration) Ensure the belt teeth seat correctly on Ihe sprockets.
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Diesel engine in-car repair procedures 2C*11
X
a 13.14 Fitting the new oil seal to the oil pump casing
S Unscrew the bolts securing the oil pump to Ihe front of the cylinder block and withdraw it over the nose of the crankshaft. Note the location of the bracket (see Illustration). Recover the gasket.
Inspection 8 Prise the oil seal from the front of the oil pump using a screwdriver (see Illustration). 7 Unscrew the crosshead screws and lift off the cover. The screws are tight and are best loosened using an impact driver (see illustration). S Lift out the two rotors keeping them identified for position in relation to each other (see illustrations). 9 Depress the relief valve collar, then extract the retaining plate and withdraw the seat, spring and valve (see illustrations). 10 Clean the pump thoroughly, and Inspect the rotors for signs of damage or wear. Using a feeler blade, check the wear between the outer rotor and oil pump casing. Using the feeler blade and a straight-edge, check the endptay of Ihe rotors. If the rotors are worn in excess of the specified amount given in Specifications, the oil pump should be renewed as a complete unit (see Illustrations). 11 Check the condition of the relief valve and seating - If worn excessively the pump must be renewed. 12 If the components are In good condition, reassemble the pump using a reversal of the dismantling procedure. Before fitting the cover the rotors should be oiled and the cavity
13.15 Engine oil dipstick rubber grommet in the oil pump casing between them filled with clean engine oil. Make sure the cover screws are fully tightened. 13 Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the oil pump and cylinder block. 14 Dip the new oil seal in engine oil then locate it on the front of the oil pump with the sealing lips facing Inwards. Use a suitable tubular drift (or socket) to drive the seal into the oil pump casing (see illustration). 16 Examine the dipstick tube rubber grommet in the oil pump and renew il If necessary (see illustration).
Refitting 16 Smear a little engine oil on both sides of the new gasket then locate it on the cylinder block (see illustration), 17 To prevent damage to the new oil seal as it is passed over the nose of the crankshaft, wrap some adhesive tape around it and lightly oil it. 18 Carefully locate the oil pump over the crankshaft taking care not to damage the oil seal then Insert the bolts loosely. Remove the adhesive tape (see Illustration). 19 Using a straight-edge, position the oil pump so that the sump mating surface Is level with the surface of the crankcase (see illustration). With the pump correctly positioned, securely tighten the bolts in an even and progressive sequence. 20 Refit the oil pick-up tube together with a new gasket, and securely tighten the mounting bolts. 21 Refit the sump with reference to Section 12.
13.16 Positioning the oil pump gasket on the cylinder block 22 Refit the crankshaft sprocket with reference to Section 5 and the timing belt with reference to Section 4. 23 When starling the engine, let it Idle until the oil pressure warning light goes out.
14 Oil cooler -removal and refitting I I
Removal 1 The oil cooler is located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment. First remove the front bumper as described In Chapter 11. 2 Unbolt the support bar for the radiator and oil cooler. 3 Support the oil cooler then unscrew the upper mounting boll. Lower the cooler to the extent of the hoses. 4 Position a container beneath the cooler then unscrew the Inlet and outlet union nuts and disconnect the hoses from the oil filter. Note the fitted positions of the hoses for correct refitting. Allow the oil to drain into the container. 5 Fully unscrew the union nuts and disconnect the hoses from the oil cooler.
Refitting 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but top-up the engine oil level as necessary. Run the engine and check for leaks.
13.18 Locating the oil pump over the end of the crankshaft 13.19 Checking that the oil pump and sump mating surfaces are correctly aligned with a straight-edge
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2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
12.18 Angle-tightening the main bearing cap bolts (petrol engine)
12.Ida Application area for silicone Instant gasket on crankshaft rear oil seal housing (petrol engine) 12.19b Refitting the crankshaft rear oil seal housing (petrol engine)
19 Fit a new oil seal to the crankshaft rear oil seal housing. Apply grease to the seal lips. On 1108 cc petrol engines a conventional gasket Is not used at the oil seal retainer joint face, but a 3 mm diameter bead of RTV (Instant) silicone gasket must be applied as shown -allow at least one hour 1or the gasket to cure before oil contacts it. On all other engines a gasket Is fitted Securely tighten the housing bolts (see Illustrations). 20 Check that Ihe crankshaft rotates freely by turning It by hand. If resistance Is fell, re-check the running clearances, as described above. 21 Carry out a check of the crankshaft endfloat as described at the beginning of Section 8. If the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft have been checked and new thrust washers hove been fitted, then the endfioat should be within specification.
22 Refit the pistons and connecting rods as described in Section 7. 23 Refit the flywheeVdriveplate, and-vibration plate (16-valvo engines), oil pump and pick-up tube, and sump with reference to the relevant Sections of Parts A, B or C of this Chapter.
13 Engine -initial start-up after overhaul and reassembly
1 With the engine refitted In the vehicle, double-check the engine oil and coolant levels. Make a final check that everything has been reconnected, and that there are no tools or rags left In the engine compartment.
Petrol engine models 2 Remove the spark plugs, then disable the
ignition system by disconnecting the LT wiring plug to the ignition colls. 3 Turn the engine on the starter until Ihe oi pressure warning light goes out. Refit ihe spark plugs, and reconnect the LT wiring.
Diesel engine models 4 Disconnect tho wiring from the stop solenoid on the Injection pump, then turn the engine on the starter motor until the oil pressure warning light goes out. Reconnect ihe wire to the stop solenoid. 6 Fully depress the accelerator pedal, turn tho ignition key to its first position and wait tor HHJ preheating warning light to go out.
All models 6 Start the engine, noting that this may take i little longer than usual, due to the fuel system components having been disturbed.
12.19c On diesel engines use a screwdriver to prise out the rear oil seal 12.19d Locate the new oil soalln the housing (diosel engine)... 12.19e ... and use a block of wood to drive it in
12.19f On Diesel engines fit the gasket to the cylinder block ... 12.19g ... then locate the rear oli seal housing... 12.19h ... and Insert the bolts
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3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
1 General information and precautions
Genera/ Information The engine cooling/cabin heating system is ol pressurised type, comprising a coolant pump driven by the camshaft timing belt (petrol engine models) or auxiliary drlvebelt (diesel engine models), a crossllow radiator, a coolant expansion tank, an electric cooling fan, a thermostat, heater matrix, and all associated hoses and switches. The system functions as follows: Ihe coolant pump circulates cold water around the cylinder block and head passages, and through the Inlet manifold, heater matrix and throttle body to the thermostat housing. When the engine Is cold, the thermostat remains closed and prevents coolant from circulating through the radiator. When the coolant reaches a predetermined temperature, the thermostat opens, and the coolant passes through the top hose to the radiator. As the coolant circulates through the radiator, it is cooled by the in-rush of air when the car is in forward motion. The airllow is supplemented by the action of the electric cooling fan. when necessary, As the temperature of the coolant in the radiator drops, it flows to the bottom of the radiator by convection, and passes out through the bottom hose to the coolant pump - the cycle is then repeatod, When the engine is at normal operating temperature, the coolant expands, and some of It is displaced into the expansion tank. Coolant collects In the tank, and ts returned to Ihe radiator when the system cools. On petrol engine models, the expansion tank is integrated into the side of the radiator. On diesel engine models, and certain petrol engine models with air conditioning, the tank is a separate unit, mounted on the right hand side of the engine compartment. On turbo diesel engine models, the coolant is also passed through a supplementary engine oil cooler, to assist In controlling the engine lubricant temperature. Tho electric cooling fan mounted in front of the radiator is controlled by a thermostatic switch. At a predetermined coolant temperature, the swilch/sensor actuates the tan lo provide additional airflow through the radiator, The switch cuts the electrical supply to the Ion when the coolant temperature has dropped below a preset threshold (see Specifications).
Precautions
A
Warning: Do not attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap, or to disturb any part of the cooling system, whlio the engine is hot, as then is a high risk of scalding, tf the expansion tank pressure cap must be removed before the
engine and radiator have fulty cooled (even though this is not recommended?, the pressure in the cooling system must first be relieved. Cover the cap with a thick layer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and slowly unscrew the pressuro cap until a hissing sound Is heard. When the hissing stops, indicating that the pressure has reduced, slowly unscrew the pressure cap until it can be removed; If more hissing sounds are heard, wait until they have stopped before unscrewing the cap completely. At all times, keep your face well away from the pressure cap opening, and protect your hands.
A
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come into contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately, with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or In a puddle In the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal tf ingested.
A
Warning: If the engine is hot, the electric cooling fan may start rotating even if the engine and ignition are switched off. Be careful to keep your hands, hair, and any loose clothing well clear when working In the engine compartment.
2 Cooling system hoses - f&> disconnection and renewal ^
1 The number, routing and pattern of hoses will vary according to model, but the same basic procedure applies. Before commencing work, make sure that the new hoses are to hand, along wilh new hose clips if needed, it is good practice to renew the hose clips at the same time as the hoses. 2 Drain the cooling system, as described in Chapter 1A or 18, saving the coolant if it is fit for re-use. Apply a little penetrating oil onto the hose clips if they are corroded. 3 Release the hose clips from the hose concerned. Three types of clip are used; worm-drive. spring and 'sardine-can'. The worm-drive clip is released by turning its screw anti-clockwise. The spring clip Is released by squeezing Its tags together with pliers, at the same time working the cbp away from the hose stub. The sardine-can clips are not re-usable, and are best cut off with snips or side cutters. 4 Unclip any wires, cables or other hoses which may be attached to the hose being removed. Make notes for reference when reassembling If necessary. 5 Release the hose from its stubs with a twisting motion. Be careful not to damage the stubs on deltcate components such as the radiator, or thermostat housings. If the hose Is stuck fast, the best course is often to cut it off using a sharp knife, but again be careful not to damage the stubs.
6 Before fitting the new hose, smear the stubs with washing-up liquid or a suitable rubber lubricant to aid fitting. Do not use oil or grease, which may attack the rubber. 7 Fit the hose clips over the ends of the hose, then fit the hose over its stubs. Work the hose Into position. When satisfied, locate and tighten the hose dips. 6 Refill the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 1B. Run the engine, and chock that there are no leaks. 9 Recheck the tightness of Ihe hose clips on any new hoses after a few hundred miles. 10 Top-up the coolant level if necessary.
3 Radiator -
removal,
inspection and refitting
Removal Note: If leakage is the reason for removing
the
radiator, bear In mind that minor leaks can often be cured using proprietary radiator sealing compound, with the radiator in situ. 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual). On diesel engine models, unbolt the relay bracket from the side of the battery tray. 2 Drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 1B. 3 On 1242 cc (16-valve) petrol engine models, remove the air cleaner and Inlet ducts as desenbed In Chapter 4B, 4 Slacken the clips and disconnect Ihe (op and bottom coolant hoses from the radiator. In addition on diesel engine models, and petrol engine models with a remotely-sited expansion tank, disconnect the expansion tank coolant hose from the right hand side ol the radiator (see Illustrations), 5 Unscrew the fixings and lift the plastic trim panel from above the front bumper Unscrew the bolt(s) securing tho radiator to the upper body panel (see Illustration). Note that the radiator and cooling fan assembly share the same upper mounting bolt. 6 Unbolt the cooling fan(e) and shroud assembly from Ihe rear ot the radiator, as described in Section 5.
3.4a Slacken the clip and disconnect the radiator bottom hose
Page 118 of 225
3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
12 If tho pump is stuck, tap It gently using a soft-faced mallet • do not lever between the pump and cylinder block mating faces.
Inspection 13 Check the pump body and impeller for signs of excessive corrosion. Turn the impeller, and check for stiffness due to corrosion, or roughness due to excessive end play. 14 Check the clearance between the pump Impeller and the casing using a feeler blade (see Illustration). If the clearance is different to that given In the Specifications, the pump must be renewed. No spare components are available; the pump can only be renewed as a complete assembly. 15 On diesel engine models, remove the O-rlng at the end ol the transfer pipe, which runs behind Ihe cylinder block and fits Into the rear of the coolant pump. A new O-rlng should be fitted as a matter of course.
Refitting
Petrol engine models 16 Commence refitting by thoroughly cleaning all traces of sealant from the mating faces of the pump and cylinder block/pump housing. 17 Apply a continuous bead of sealant {liquid gasket) to the cylinder block mating face of the pump, taking care not to apply excessive sealant, which may enter the pump itself (see Illustration). 18 Place the pump In position In Its housing, then refit and lighten the bolts/nuts to the specified torque. 19 Refit the liming belt as described In Chapter 2A or 28. 20 Refit the auxiliary drivebeltfs) and refill the cooling system as described in Chapter
t
A. 21 Reconnect Ihe battery negative terminal. Diesel engine models 22 Commence refitting by thoroughly cleaning all traces of old gasket from the mating faces of the pump housing and cylinder block. 23 Place a new gasket in position on (he cylinder block, locate the pump in position, then refit and tighten the bolts (see
7.17 On petrol engine models, apply a continuous bead of sealant (liquid gasket) to the pump mating face
pump Impeller and the casing using a feeler blode (diesel engine) illustration). Ensure that the end of the coolant transfer pipe seats firmly In tho port at the rear of the coolant pump, without displacing the O-ring seal. 24 Refit Ihe pump pulley, then refit the securing bolts and tighten to the specified torque. Counterhofd the pulley using the same method employed during removal. 25 Where applicable, refit the power steering pump with reference to Chapter 10. 26 Refit and tension the auxiliary drivebelt(s) as described in Chapter 18. 27 Refill (he cooling system as desenbed in Chapter 1B. 28 Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
8 Heater/ventilation components - § removal and refitting
Complete heater assembly
A
Warning: On mode's fitted with air conditioning, do not attempt to remove the cooling unit, which Is located between the heater blower motor casing and the main heater assembly. Romovat of the cooling unit entails disconnection of refrigerant lines - refer to Section 10 for precautions to be observed.
rfJS
8.3 Slacken the clips (arrowed) and detach the heater unit coolant hoses from the ports at the bulkhead
Page 120 of 225
3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
essential that you entrust this task to your Flat dealer or a refrlgeralion engineer.
A
Warning: The refrigeration circuit contains a liquid refrigerant and
H
Is dangerous to disconnect any part of the system without specialist knowledge and equipment. The refrigerant is potentially dangerous, and should only be handled by qualified persons. If it is splashed onto tha skin, It can cause severe frostbite, tt Is not Itself poisonous, but In the presence of a naked flame (Including a cigarette), it forms a
poisonous gas. Uncontrolled discharging of the refrigerant is dangerous and potentially damaging to the environment.
10 Air conditioning components ^S - removal and refitting J
Note: Do not operate the air conditioning system If it is known to be short of refrigerant, as this may damage the compressor. 1 The only operation which can be carried
out easily without discharging the refrigerant is renewal of the auxiliary (compressor) drivebelt - this procedure Is described in Chapter 1A or 1B. All other operations must be referred to a Fiat dealer or an air conditioning specialist. 2 If necessary for access to other com-ponents, the compressor can be unbolted and moved aside, without disconnecting its flexible hoses, after removing the drivebelt.
A
Warning: Do not attempt to open the refrigerant circuit. Refer to
the
precautions given in Section 9.
expert22 a/ia http://rutracker.org
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4A*2 Fuel system - single-point petrol Injection models
1 General information and precautions
General information The iAW Weber-Marelli single point Injection (SPI) system is a self-contained engine management system, which controls both the fuel Injection and Ignition (see Illustration), This Chapter deals with the fuel Injection system components only - refer to Chapter 5B for details ol the ignition system components. The fuel Injection system comprises a fuel tank, an electric fuel pump, a fuel filter, fuel supply and return lines, a throttle body with an integral electronic fuel Injector, and an Electronic Control Unit (ECU) together with its associated sensors, actuators and wiring. The fuel pump delivers a constant supply of fuel through a cartridge fitter to the throttle body, and the fuel pressure regulator (integral with the throttle body) maintains a constant fuel pressure at the fuel injector and returns excess fuel to the tank via the return line. This
constant flow system also helps to reduce fuel temperature and prevents vaporisation. Tne fuel injeclor Is opened and closed by an Electronic Control Unit (ECU), which calculates the injection timing and duration according to engine speed, throttle position and rate of opening, Inlet air temperature, coolant temperature and exhaust gas oxygen content information, received from sensors mounted on the engine. inlet air is drawn Into the engine through the air cleaner, which contains a renewable paper filter element. The inlet air temperature is regulated by a vacuum operated valve mounted in the air ducting, which blends air at ambient temperature with hot air, drawn from over the exhaust manifold. Idle speed is controlled by a stepper motor located on the side of the throttle body. Cold starling enrichment is controlled by the ECU using the coolant temperature and inlet air temperature parameters to increase the injector opening duration. The exhaust gas oxygen content is constantly monitored by the ECU via the Lambda (oxygen) sensor, which is mounted in
me exhaust downpipe. The ECU then uses this Information to modify the Injection timing and duration to maintain the optimum air/fuel ratio. An exhaust catalyst Is fitted to all SPI models. The ECU also controls the operation of the activated charcoal filter evaporative loss system • refer to Chapter 4D for further details. It should be noted that fault diagnosis of the I IAW Weber-Marelli system is only possible with dedicated electronic test equipment. Problems with the system should therefore be I referred to a Flat dealer for assessment. Once i the fault has been Identified, the I removal/refitting procedures detailed in the following Sections can then be followed.
Precautions |
A
Warning: Many procedures in thH Chapter require the removal ot fuel lines and connections, which may result in fuel spillage. Before carrying | out any operation on Me fuel system, refer to the precautions given In Safety flrstt at the beginning ot this manual, and follow them Implicitly. Petrol Is a highly dangerous and volatile liquid, and the precautions
1.1 IAW Weber-Marelli single point Injection (SPI) system 1 Fuel
tank
2 Fuel pump 3 Fuel filter 4 Anii'reflux valve 5 Fuel pressure regulator 6 Injector
7 Air cleaner 8 Fuel vapour
trap
9 Idle stepper motor
10
Absolute pressure sensor J11njection/ignition ECU 12 Tnrottle position sensor
13 Engine coolant temperature sensor 14 Intake air temperature sensor 15 Inject'onfignitron dual
relay
16 Ignition coils 17 Rpm and TDC sensor
18 Spark plugs 79 Diagnostic socket 20 EVAP solenoid 21 Lambda/oxygen sensor 22 Rev counter 23 IAW failure warning light
Page 123 of 225
4A*2 Fuel system - single-point petrol Injection models
2.4a Disconnect the large breather hose... ziecessary when handling it cannot be mrstressed. Note that residual pressure
wttf
remain in the tuei lines long after the wh/cte was last used, When disconnecting any fuel line, first depressurise the fuel
system
(see Section 8).
2 Air cleaner and intet system • removal and refitting
1
Accelerator cable -removal, refitting and adjustment l
Removal 1 Remove the air cleaner element as described in Chapter 1A. 2 Disconnect the outer section from the hot
air
tube and the inlet air duct and remove it
from
the engine compartment. 3II necessary remove the inlet air duct. 4 Disconnect Ihe large and small breather
roses
from the inner section of the air cleaner, tftsn unscrew the retaining nuts and lift the section from the throttle body (see lustrations).
5
Recover the sealing ring. Check the ring for condition and renew it if necessary.
6
Wipe clean the inner surfaces of both the merand outer sections of the air cleaner. Refitting 7 Refitting Is a reversal ol removal but renew
tie
element
H
necessary.
3 Inlet air temperature regulator -removal and refitting
Removal t
The
thermostatically-controlled cold air flap cpener is located in the air cleaner outer ttsrig section. To check the unit, disconnect
ire air
inlet duct with the engine cold and use imrrorto check that the flap Is positioned to aJmit only hot air from the shroud on the utaust manifold. Next, warm up the engine
and
check that the flap moves to admit only sett air from the inlet duct. If the unit is faulty fl must be renewed.
2
Remove the air cleaner element as •senbod in Chapter
1
A.
kickdown cable adjustment as described in Chapter 7B before adjusting the accelerator cable • in its rest position the accelerator pedal should have approximately 8.0 mm free travel.
5 Engine management system components -removal and refitting I
2.4b ... and the small breather hose ...
3 Unscrew the retaining screw and remove the regulator from the air cleaner outer section.
Refitting 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Removal 1 Remove the air cleaner and air inlet ducting as desenbed in Section 2. 2 To release the cable from the throttle body, unscrew the outer cable locknuts, then disengage the inner cable from the throttle cam, and release the outer cable from its mounting bracket. 3 Working under the instrument panel inside the vehicle, unhook the cable from the fork at the top of the pedal arm. 4 Release the bulkhead grommet and withdraw the accelerator cable from Inside the engine compartment.
Refitting and adjustment 5 Refitting is a reverse of the removal process, but adjust the cable (by means of the outer cable locknuts) so that there is only a very small amount of free play present at the throttle body end of the inner cable. Have an assistant depress the accelerator pedal, and check that the throttle cam opens fully and returns to the at-rest position, then secureJy tighten the cable locknuts. On Selecta models, check the
Note: Refer to the warning given in Section 1 before proceeding. Throttle body assembly
Removal 1 Remove the air cleaner and air duct as desenbed in Section 2. 2 Disconnect the wiring connectors from the throttle potentiometer, idle control stepper motor, inlet air temperature sensor and the injector wiring loom connector situated on the front of the throttle body. 3 Depressurise the fuel system with reference to Section 8, then release the retaining clips and disconnect the fuel feed and return hoses from the throttle body assembly, if the original Fiat retaining clips are still fitted, cut the clips and discard them; replace them with standard luel hose clips on refitting. 4 Slacken the accelerator cable locknuts, then disengage the inner cable from the throttle cam and froe tho outer cable from its retaining bracket. Position the cable clear of the throttle body. 5 Disconnect the EVAP purge valve hose, and the MAP sensor hose from the rear of the throttle body. 6 Slacken and remove the four bolts securing the throttle body assembly to tho Inlet manifold, then remove the assembly along with its insulating spacer. Refitting 7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal pro-cedure, bearing in mind the following points: a) Examine the insulating spacer for signs of damage, and renew //necessary, b) Ensure that the throttle body, inlet manifold and insulating spacer ma ting surfaces are clean and dry, then fit the throttle body and spacer, and securely tighten the retaining bolts.
2.4c ... then remove the retaining nuts. 2.4d ... and remove the air cleaner inner section