1996 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN brake line

Parking at Night
Park in a lighted spot, close all windows and lock your vehicle. Remember
to keep your valuables out
of sight. Put them in a storage area, or take them
with
you.
Parking Lots
If you park in a lot where someone will be watching your vehicle, it’s best
to lock it up and take your keys. But what if you have to leave your ignition
key? What if you have
to leave something valuable in your vehicle‘?
0 Put your valuables in a storage area, like your glove box.
Lock all the doors except the driver’s.
New Vehicle “Break-ln”
NOTICE:
Your modern vehicle doesn’t need an elaborate “break-in.” But
it will perform better in the long run if you follow these
guidelines:
0 Keep your speed at 55 mph (88 km/h) or less for the first 500
miles (SO4 km).
Don’t drive at any one speed - fast or slow - for the first
500 miles (804 km). Don’t make full-throttle starts.
Avoid making hard stops for the first 200 miles (322 km) or
so. During this time your new brake linings aren’t yet broken
in. Hard stops with new linings can mean premature wear and
earlier replacement. Follow this “breaking-in” guideline
every time you get new brake linings.
Don’t tow a trailer during “break-in.” See “Towing a Trailer”
in the Index for more information.
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Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you’re
awaiting an opportunity. For
one thing, following too closely reduces
your area of
vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle.
Also,
you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly
slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance.
When it looks like
a chance to pass is coming up, start to accelerate but
stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move
so you
will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane.
If the way
is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more
than makes up for the distance
you would lose by dropping back. And
if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only
slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity.
If other cars are lined up
to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But
take care that someone isn’t trying to pass
you as you pull out to pass
the slow vehicle. Remember
to glance over your shoulder and check
the blind spot.
Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder, and start your left lane
change signal before moving
out of the right lane to pass. When you
are far enough ahead
of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside
mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back
into the
right lane. (Remember that if your right outside mirror is convex, the
vehicle
you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it
really is.)
Try not to pass more
than one vehicle at a time on two-lane roads.
Reconsider before passing
the next vehicle.
Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle
too rapidly. Even though the
brake lights are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn.
If you’re being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get
ahead of
you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.
Loss of Control
Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three
control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough
friction where
the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked.
In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying
to steer and constantly seek an
escape route or area of less danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid
most skids by taking reasonable care suited
to existing conditions, and by
not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible.
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The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems.
In the braking skid your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering
skid, too much speed or steering
in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And in the acceleration skid too much throttle causes the
driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best handled by easing your
foot off the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts
to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and
quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If
you start steering
quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a
second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other
material is on the road. For safety,
you’ll want to slow down and adjust your
driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more
limited.
While driving
on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid
sudden steering, acceleration, or braking (including engine braking by
shifting
to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide.
You may
not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding.
Learn to recognize warning clues
- such as enough water, ice or packed
snow
on the road to make a “mirrored surface” - and slow down when you
have any doubt.
Remember: Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps avoid
only the braking
skid.
Driving Guidelines
This multipurpose passenger vehicle is defined as a utility vehicle in
Consumer Information Regulations issued by the National Highway Traffic
Safety Administration (NHTSA)
of the United States Department of
Transportation. Utility vehicles have higher ground clearance and a
narrower track to make them capable
of performing in a wide variety of
off-road applications. Specific design characteristics give them a higher
center of gravity than ordinary cars. An advantage of the higher ground
clearance is a better view
of the road allowing you to anticipate problems.
They are
not designed for cornering at the same speeds as conventional
2-wheel drive vehicles any more than low-slung sports cars are designed
to
perform satisfactorily under off-road conditions. If at all possible, avoid
sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers. As with other vehicles of this type, failure
to operate this vehicle correctly may result
in loss of control or vehicle
rollover.
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your brakes and they won’t have to do all the work. Descend slowly,
keeping your vehicle under control at all times.
0: Are there some things I should not do when driving down a hill?
A: Yes! These are important because if you ignore them you could lose
control and have a serious accident.
0 When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of
the hill. A hill that’s not
too steep to drive down may be too steep to
drive across. You could roll over if you don’t drive straight down.
0 Never go downhill with the transmission in NEUTRAL (N), or with the
clutch pedal depressed in a manual shift
. This is called
“free-wheeling.” Your brakes will have to do all the work and could
overheat and fade.
Q: Am I likely to stall when going downhill?
A: It’s much more likely to happen going uphill. But if it happens going
downhill, here’s what to do.
0 Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes. Apply the parking
0 Shift to PARK (P) (or to Neutral with the manual transmission) and,
brake.
while still braking, restart the engine.
1, Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake, and drive straight
down.
If the engine won’t start, get out and get help.
Driving Across an Incline
Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill.
If this happens, you have to decide whether to try to drive across the incline.
Here are some things to consider:
A hill that can be driven straight up or down may be too steep to drive
across. When you go straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel
base (the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels) reduces the
likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when you drive
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After Off-Road Driving
Remove any biush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis or
under the hood. These accumulations
can be a fire hazard.
After operation
in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked.
These substances
can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body
structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and
exhaust system for
damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer
to the Maintenance Schedule
for additional information.
Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some
drivers are likely to be impaired
- by alcohol or drugs, with night vision
problems,
or by fatigue.
Here are some tips
on night driving.
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Drive defensively.
Don’t drink and drive.
Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlamps
behind you.
Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow down and
keep more
space between you and other vehicles.
Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlamps can light
up only
so much road ahead.
In remote areas, watch for animals.
If you’re tired, pull off the road
in a safe place and rest.
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h
9. Then replace the
pressure cap. Be
sure the arrows
on the pressure
cap line up like
this.
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged,
the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most every day
driving conditions the fan
is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully
engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy
vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures,
the fan
speed increases as the clutch more
fully engages. So you may hear an
increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the
transmission slipping
or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system
functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not
required and the clutch partially disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away
as the fan clutch partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you
maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to
leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips
about what
to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle
toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the
steering wheel firmly. Steer
to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a
stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may
require the same correction you’d
use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove
your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way
you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and
noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well
off the road if
possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to
change a flat tire safely.
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If your engine has more than one emissions classification, the classification
is determined by the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of your vehicle
as shown on the Certification Label. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the
Index.
Once you’ve determined your engine type and,
if necessary, emissions
classification, you’ll need
to decide which of the two schedules is right for
your vehicle. See Definitions for Maintenance Schedule I and Maintenance
Schedule I1 following.
Schedule I Definition - Gasoline Engines With Light Duty
Emissions
Follow Maintenance Schedule I if any one of these is true for your vehicle:
0 Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km). This is particularly
important when outside temperatures are below freezing.
stop-and-go traffic).
0 Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in
0 You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or off-road frequently.
You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle.
Schedule
I should also be followed if the vehicle is used for delivery
service, police, taxi, or other commercial application.
Schedule I Intervals - Gasoline Engines With Light Duty
Emissions
Every
3,000 Miles (5 000 km) or 3 Months
Engine Oil and Filter Change
Chassis Lubrication
Drive Axle Service
At 6,000 Miles (10 000 km) - Then Every 12,000 Miles (25 000 km)
Tire Rotation
Every 15,000 Miles (25 000 km)
Air Cleaner Filter Inspection, if driving in dusty conditions
Front Wheel Bearing Repack (or at each brake relining)
(2WD Only)
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At 6,000 Miles (10 000 km) - Then Every 12,000 Miles (25 000 km)
Tire Rotation
Every 12,000 Miles (20 000 km)
Air Cleaner Filter Inspection, if Driving in Dusty Conditions
Front Wheel Bearing Repack (or at Each Brake Relining) (2-Wheel Drive Only)
Fuel Filter Replacement
Engine Accessory Drive Belt Inspection
Shields and Underhood Insulation Inspection
Thermostatically Controlled Engine Cooling Fan Check (or every
12 months, whichever occurs first)
Every 24,000 Miles (40 000 km)
Cooling System Service (or every 24 months, whichever occurs first)
Air Cleaner Filter Replacement
Engine Timing Check
Thermostatically Controlled Air Cleaner Inspection
Air Intake System Inspection
Every 27,000 Miles (45 000 km)
Spark Plugs Replacement
Every 50,000 Miles (83 000 km)
Automatic Transmission Service
Every 60,000 Miles (100 000 km)
Spark Plug Wire Inspection
Exhaust
Gas Recirculation (EGR) System Inspection
Fuel
Tmk, Cap and Lines Inspection
Evaporative Control System Inspection
Electronic Vacuum Regulator Valve (EVRV) Inspection
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