Page 175 of 386

If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re
planning to visit there, here
are some tips that can make
your
trips safer and more enjoyable.
Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid
levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and
transmission. These parts can work hard on
mountain roads.
0 Know how to go down hills. The most important
thing to know is this: let your engine do some
of the
slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you
go
down a steep or long hill. 0
0
0
0
0
Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down
to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine
and transmission, and you can climb the
hill better.
In hilly terrain, you may want to switch to the
PERFORMANCE mode for better performance.
Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane
roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide
or cut
across the center
of the road. Drive at speeds that let
you stay in your own lane.
As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be
something in
your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.
You may see highway signs on mountains that wam of
special problems. Examples
are long grades, passing or
no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, or winding
roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.
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Page 189 of 386

Parking on Hills
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer
attached, on a
hill. If something goes wrong, your rig
could
start to move. People can be injured, and both
your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to
do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet, or into gear for a manual transmission.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes, Then apply your parking
brake, and then shift to PARK (P), or REVERSE (R)
for a manual transmission.
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
Start your engine;
0 Shift into a gear; and
0 Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that
are especially important in trailer
operation
are automatic transmission fluid (don’t
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling
system, and brake adjustment. Each
of these is covered
in this manual, and the Index will help you find them
quickly.
If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review
these sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are
tight.
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Page 242 of 386
3.4L L32 (Code S) When you open the hood you'll see:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
Battery
Engine Coolant Reservoir
Engine Oil Dipstick
Automatic Transmission Dipstick (if equipped)
Air Cleaner
Oil
Fill Cap
Brake Fluid Reservoir
Power Steering Reservoir
Windshield Washer Reservoir
Engine Fan Clutch Fluid Reservoir (if equipped)
6-9
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Page 243 of 386
3.8L L36 (Code K) When you open the hood you'll see:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
Battery
Engine Coolant Reservoir Engine Oil Dipstick
Automatic Transmission Dipstick (if equipped)
Air Cleaner Oil
Fill Cap
Brake Fluid Reservoir
Power Steering Reservoir Windshield Washer Reservoir
Engine Fan Clutch Fluid Reservoir
(if equipped)
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Page 244 of 386
5.7L LT1 (Code P) When you open the hood you'll see:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
Battery
Engine Coolant Reservoir
Engine Oil Dipstick
Automatic Transmission Dipstick (if equipped)
Air Cleaner
Oil Fill Cap
. ., ' I 7: . $: ,;
Brake Fluid Reservoir ,? : .'y-;
Power Steering Reservoir .X&:
Windshield Washer Reservoir $i.
Engine Fans
Clutch Fluid Reservoir (if equipped)
._ .. '$# .
jp;
d
;j
F , ,i
0 x. : .9' 2'
6-11
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Page 256 of 386

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmission fluid level if you have been driving:
When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
At high speed for quite a while.
In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather.
While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal
operating temperature, which is
180" F to 200" F
(82°C to 93°C).
To check transmission fluid hot: Get the vehicle
warmed up by driving about
15 miles (24 km) when
outside temperatures
&e above 50°F (10°C).
If its colder than 50" F (10" C) drive the vehicle in
DRIVE (D) until the engine temperature gage moves
and then remians steady for ten minutes. Then
follow
the hot check procedures.
To check transmission fluid cold: A cold check is
made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or
more with the engine
off and is used only as a reference.
Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside
temperatures are
50°F (10°C) or more. If it's colder
than 50°F (lO"C), you may have to idle the engine
longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold
check, you
must perform a hot check before adding
fluid. This will give you
a more accurate reading of the
fluid level.
To check the fluid hot or cold:
Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine
With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
running.
in PARK (P).
With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear range, pausing for about
three seconds in'each range. Then, position the shift
lever in PARK
(P).
Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.
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Page 269 of 386

Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY. Add
washer fluid until the tank is full.
NOTICE:
When using concentrated washer fluid,
follow the manufacturer’s instructions for
adding water.
0 Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer
fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze
and damage your washer fluid tank and
other parts of the washer system. Also,
water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.
0 Fill your washer fluid tank only 3/4 full
when it’s very cold. This allows for
expansion, which could damage the tank
if
it is completely full.
windshield washer. It can damage your
washer system and paint.
0 Don’t use radiator antifreeze in your
Brake Master Cylinder
Your brake master cylinder is here. It is filled with
DOT-3 brake fluid.
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in
your master cylinder might go down. The first is that the
brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during
normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in,
the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that
fluid is leaking out
of the brake system. If it is, you
should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means
that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or
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Page 270 of 386
I
won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’
your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a
leak. If
you add fluid when your linings are worn, then
you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake
linings.
You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as
necessary, only when work is done
on the brake
hydraulic system.
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to
check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance
Inspections”
in the Index.
To Check Brake Fluid
You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.
Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid
level
should be above the plastic seam in the reservoir. If it
isn’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a
leak.
After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make
sure the level
is above the plastic seam, near the base of
the filler neck.
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