1995 LAND ROVER DISCOVERY engine oil

26COOLING SYSTEM
4
REPAIR RADIATOR
Service repair no - 26.40.01
Remove
1.Drain cooling system.
See Adjustment,
Coolant
2.Remove viscous coupling and fan assembly.
See Viscous Coupling, Fan Blades, Pulley
and Fan Cowl
3.Release 2 clips and remove fan cowl.
4.Disconnect radiator top hoses.
5.Disconnect four transmission and engine oil
cooler connections to radiator end tanks. Note oil
spillage will occur when connections are
loosened. Blank off exposed oil connections.
6.Disconnect transmission oil temperature sensor.
7.Remove radiator securing brackets from each
side.
8.Remove radiator unit by lifting from its location.
Check condition of rubber mounting pads.Refit
9.Reverse removal procedure.
10.Clean unions and apply sealant.
11.Lubricate new 'O' rings before fitting.
12.Check radiator sealing strips are securely
located.
13.Transfer oil cooler adaptors if fitting new radiator.
14.Ensure that oil cooler connections are tightened
to
30 Nm.before fitting fan blades and cowl.
15.Clean coolant/oil spillage from vehicle.
16.Check all connections for coolant/oil leaks.

30MANIFOLD AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
4
REPAIR EXHAUST MANIFOLD - Tdi
Service repair no - 30.15.10
Remove
1.Disconnect battery negative lead.
2.Remove heat shield from rear of air intake
manifold.
3.Release dip stick tube from cylinder block.
4.Disconnect the intake hose from the manifold.
5.Remove the two bolts and two nuts securing the
intake manifold to the cylinder head and
withdraw the inlet manifold.
6.Remove air filter inlet pipe to turbo unit.
7.Remove intercooler pipe from turbo to
intercooler.
8.Disconnect the EGR pipe from the inlet manifold
hose.
9.Remove the three fixings at the exhaust pipe
flange.
10.Release the turbo charger oil pipes from the
cylinder block.
11.Remove the turbo boost pipes.
12.Remove seven bolts securing the exhaust
manifold, release the heater rail and remove the
manifold gasket, complete with turbo unit.
13.Remove four bolts and disconnect diaphragm
rod from manifold, and remove turbo charger if
necessary.
Refit
14.Reverse removal procedure. 1 to 12. Use a new
manifold and exhaust flange gaskets.
15.Reconnect battery negative lead. Start engine
and check for leaks.

CLUTCH
1
FAULT DIAGNOSIS CLUTCH ASSEMBLY CONDITIONS
For the clutch to operate correctly as described and
illustrated in the "Description and Operation", it is
important the following conditions are satisfied:-
A. The primary shaft 15 must be free in the
crankshaft spigot bush 17.
B. The friction plate 2 must be able to slide easily
on the splines on the primary shaft 15, to a
position where it does not contact either the
flywheel or the pressure plate.
C. The friction plate must not be distorted or the
linings contaminated with oil, which may cause it
to stick or continue to run in contact with the
flywheel or pressure plate.
A number of faults can develop in the operation of the
clutch for a variety of reasons and although most
faults are due to normal wear at high mileage,
problems can also occur if the unit has been renewed
by an unskilled operator.
Recognising and diagnosing a particular clutch fault is
therefore of paramount importance in ensuring, that
the problem is rectified at the first attempt.
Problems which develop in the clutch are as follows:-
A. Clutch spin/drag
B. Clutch slip
C. Clutch judder/fierceCLUTCH SPIN - DRAG
Symptoms
Clutch spin is that, with engine running and clutch
pedal depressed, the gears cannot be immediately
engaged without making a grinding noise. This
indicates the clutch is not making a clean break.
However, if the clutch pedal is held depressed for
several seconds the friction plate will eventually break
free from the engine and the gear will engage silently.
Clutch spin as it becomes more severe develops into
clutch drag, making the silent engagement of a gear
impossible, regardless of how long the pedal is held
depressed.
CLUTCH SLIP
Symptoms
Clutch slip is most evident climbing a hill or when the
vehicle is moving off from stationary with a heavy
load. As the clutch is released slip occurs between the
engine and the transmission, allowing the engine
speed to increase without a corresponding increase in
vehicle speed.
Clutch slip can develop to the stage where no power
is transmitted through the clutch as the pedal is
released.
CLUTCH JUDDER - FIERCE
Symptoms
Clutch judder or fierce engagement, like slip, is most
likely to occur when the vehicle is moving off from
stationary. As the clutch pedal is released the vehicle
will move rapidly or in a series of jerks, which can not
be controlled even by careful operation of the clutch
by the driver.
It should be noted that a vehicle may display all the
symptoms or any combination of the symptoms
described, depending on the driving conditions vehicle
load and operating temperatures.

33CLUTCH
2
FAULT DIAGNOSIS FAULT/SYMPTOM CHART
Symptoms
Slip Spin/Drag Judder/Fierce Fault Item
* * * Worn or oil on clutch linings 2
* * * Mechanical damage45678
* * Distorted clutch plate 2
* Failed or air in hydraulic system 12 13
* * Primary shaft tight fit in crankshaft bush 15 17
* Clutch splines sticking 2 15
* Weak clutch plate springs or insecure/worn
engine/gearbox mountings6
* Insecure/worn propeller shafts
* Insecure/worn suspension components/rubber
bushes
For items refered to in this chart.See Description and operation, Description
CLUTCH NOISE - MECHANICAL FAULTS
Noise from clutch or gearbox in neutral, which
disappears when clutch is depressed.
Suspect gearbox input/primary shaft bearings.
See MANUAL GEARBOX, Fault diagnosis,
Manual Gearbox
- Noise from gearbox in neutral, which
disappears when clutch is depressed
Noise from clutch or gearbox in neutral, which
changes tone or becomes worse when the clutch
is depressed.
Suspect worn release bearing.
Knocking/rattling from clutch or gearbox in
neutral, which is reduced or disappears when the
clutch is depressed.
Suspect worn/weak release lever retainer or
clutch unit.
Noise from clutch or gearbox in neutral, which
disappears when clutch is depressed.
Suspect gearbox fault.
See MANUAL GEARBOX, Fault diagnosis,
Manual Gearbox
- Noise from gearbox in neutral, which
disappears when clutch is depressed.HYDRAULIC FAULTS
Unable to dis-engage clutch, little or no pedal
resistance.
1.Check condition, specification and level of fluid.
2.Check pipes and cylinders for leaks.
3.Check that air vent in reservoir lid is clear.
Suspect faulty master cylinder if no fluid leaks
present.
See Repair, Master Cylinder
Spongy pedal operation
1.Check condition, specification and level of fluid.
2.Check that air vent in reservoir lid is clear.
Suspect air in fluid.
See Repair, Bleed Hydraulic System
Clutch is difficult to dis-engage and/or does not
immediately re-engage when pedal is released.
1.Check condition, specification and level of fluid.
2.Check that air vent in reservoir lid is clear.
Suspect pedal pivot, master cylinder or slave
cylinder seizure.
See Repair, Master Cylinder

R380
1
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION MANUAL TRANSMISSION
Description
The all synchromesh five speed manual gearbox unit,
is married to a LT230T two speed transfer gearbox.
All the gears including reverse run on needle roller
bearings and the main, layshaft and primary shafts
are supported by tapered roller bearings.The whole of the geartrain is lubricated through
drillings in the shafts, supplied by a low pressure
pump driven from the rear of the layshaft. The gear
change has a single rail selector and spool type
interlock. The main and transfer gearboxes ventilate
through nylon pipes, which terminate high up in the
engine compartment to prevent water entry when the
vehicle is operating in adverse conditions.
1. Mainshaft 1st gear
2. Mainshaft 2nd gear
3. Mainshaft 3rd gear
4. Primary input shaft
5. Mainshaft 5th gear
6. Layshaft
7. Mainshaft
8. Lubrication pump9. Drain plug
10. Ventilation pipe
11. Single rail gear shift
12. 1st/2nd synchromesh
13. Oil seals
14. 3rd/4th synchromesh
15. 5th gear synchromesh

R380
3
REPAIR Assembling transfer gearbox to main gearbox
45.Clean extension housing and transfer gearbox
mating faces.
46.Ensuring loose upper dowel is fitted, hoist
transfer gearbox into position.
47.Fit and tighten nut and bolts to
34Nm.
48.Connect high/low operating rod, fit and tighten
locknut.
49.Fit link to differential lock lever and secure with 2
clips
50.Align lever to high/low shaft, position washer, fit
bolt and new Nyloc nut. Tighten to
2Nm.
51.Position breather pipes, secure pipe unions
using new sealing washers. Tighten unions to
15Nm.
Fitting transfer gearbox and main gearbox
assembly to engine
52.Position transmission assembly to hoist cradle.
53.Clean bell housing and engine mating faces.
54.Temporarily fit gear lever and select any gear in
main gearbox to facilitate entry of gearbox input
shaft.
55.Position and raise hoist, and fit transmission to
engine whilst keeping wires and pipes clear to
prevent trapping.
56.Fit and tighten nuts securing transmission to
engine.
57.Connect reverse lamp switch connectors and
differential lock switch connectors.
58.Secure breather pipes to harness with clips.
59.Position temporary support.
60.Remove 2 bolts securing lifting cradle to
transmission and remove hoist. Apply Loctite
290 to bolts and refit bolts.
61.Position cross-member, loosely fit nuts and bolts
securing cross-member mountings to
transmission.62.Raise transmission, align cross-member and
loosely fit nuts and bolts securing cross-member
to chassis.
63.Tighten all securing nuts and bolts. Remove
supporting jack from under sump.
64.Remove temporary support.
65.Fit handbrake cable through transmission tunnel
and secure gaiter.
66.Connect speedometer cable to transfer gearbox.
67.Line up marks and connect front and rear
propeller shafts.
68.Clean spacer, clutch slave cylinder and gearbox
mating faces.
69.Position spacer and slave cylinder, fit bolts.
Tighten to
25Nm.
70.Untie intermediate exhaust pipe(s) and refit
exhaust front pipe(s).
See MANIFOLD AND
EXHAUST SYSTEM, Repair, Exhaust System
Complete
71.Refill main gearbox and transfer gearbox with oil.
See SECTION 10, Maintenance, Under
Vehicle Maintenance
72.Lower ramp [hoist].
73.Fit fan cowl, fit and tighten bolts.
74.Align breather pipe clip to cylinder block, fit and
tighten bolts.
75.Fit handbrake cable adjuster and secure with 'C'
clip.
76.Align cable trunnion to handbrake lever, fit clevis
pin and secure with clip.
77.Check handbrake adjustment.
See SECTION
10, Maintenance, Vehicle Interior
78.Fit upper gear lever, fit and tighten bolt.
79.Fit gear selector lever and high/low selector
lever draft excluders.
80.Position draft excluder clamp rings, fit and
tighten screws.
81.Refit sound insulation.
82.Refit centre console.
See CHASSIS AND
BODY, Repair, Centre Console
83.Connect battery earth lead.

41TRANSFER GEARBOX
2
FAULT DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE
Prior to road test
1.Check oil level in transfer box is correct.
2.Check tightness of level and drain plugs.
3.Check breather system for blockage. To validate
the system the pipe must be removed,
inspected, rectified as necessary and refitted.
4.Remove all traces of oil from exterior of transfer
box.
Take vehicle for short road test.
5.Identify source of leaks and rectify as follows.
Front or rear output seal leaking:-
1.Drain the oil and remove the leaking output
flange.
2.Inspect the seal track on the flange for surface
damage. If damaged renew component.
3.Remove and discard the oil seal.
4.Inspect the seal locating bore and remove any
sharp edges which may damage the new oil
seal.
5.Fit new seal.
6.Fit the output flange and all the other parts.
7.Add oil to correct level into the gearbox.
See
LUBRICANTS, FLUIDS AND CAPACITIES,
Information, Recommended Lubricants and
Fluids
Cover plate gasket leaking.
1.Drain the oil and remove the leaking cover plate.
2.Remove all traces of joint sealant from both joint
faces.
3.Degrease all components and apply a thin film of
Hylomar sealant, to both joint faces.
4.Apply thread sealant to the bolts which come
into contact with gearbox oil.
5.Refit cover plate.
CAUTION: Care must be taken not to
overtighten the fixings.Leak between the main and transfer gearboxes.
1.Site vehicle onto a ramp [hoist].
2.Select neutral in transfer box and select 4th gear
in the main gearbox.
3.Run engine at 2000 rpm with the clutch/drive
engaged.
4.Observe joint between the main and transfer
boxes.
5.If oil leak is found establish if it is gear oil.
6.If so, the leak is originating from the transfer box.
7.Check the two inner (main/transfer) bolts are oil
tight, as these holes are tapped through into the
main transfer case.
8.Remove the transfer box to inspect the
mainshaft collar seal track condition, and the
front face of the transfer case for porosity.
See
Repair, LT230T Transfer Gearbox
9.If these areas require servicing, the transfer
gearbox input seal must also be renewed.
CAUTION: Avoid damaging the new seal
lip and ensure the seal is fitted flush with
the machined face. Also ensure the new
seal is not damaged when refitting the transfer
gearbox.
10.If red A.T.F type oil is seen leaking during the
workshop test, investigate the main gearbox for
cause of leak.
Detent plug or electrical switch leaks.
1.Detent plugs and electrical switches do not
usually leak. It must be noted that they fit into
open tapped holes in the transfer case and
therefore should be considered when looking for
the source of the leak.

41TRANSFER GEARBOX
2
REPAIR Remove
1.Site vehicle on a ramp [hoist].
2.Disconnect battery negative lead.
3.Remove fan cowl from radiator.
4.Remove transfer gear lever knob and gaiter.
5.Raise vehicle on ramp [hoist].
6.Drain oil and refit plug.
7.Detach heat shield at front exhaust pipe to
manifold.
8.Disconnect electrics to Lambda sensors.
9.Remove catalytic converter assembly.
10.Remove chassis crossmember from under
gearbox.
11.Remove heat shield from speedometer cable at
transfer gearbox.
12.Remove clamp and disconnect speedometer
cable from transfer gearbox. Tie cable to one
side.
13.Mark for reassembly then disconnect propeller
shaft to output flange, tie to one side.
14.Repeat on front propeller shaft to output flange.
15.Remove bolts retaining silencer front and rear
securing brackets and tie silencer to one side.
16.Place four 30mm long spacers between top of
hoist and adaptor plate, at securing points, and
secure adaptor plate to hoist.17.Remove four central bolts from transfer gearbox
bottom cover, move hoist into position and
secure adaptor plate to transfer gearbox.
18.Adjust hoist to take weight of transfer gearbox.
19.Remove tie bar, transfer gearbox to main
gearbox.
20.Remove nuts and bolts securing right transfer
gearbox mounting bracket to chassis.
21.Repeat for left mounting bracket. Removal of
these fixings will also free speedometer
transducer bracket.
22.Remove right side mounting bracket to flexible
mounting rubber.
23.Lower hoist until rear brake drum clears
passenger footwell. Check engine does not
crush any components while lowering.
24.Loosen park brake adjustment nut.
25.Remove park brake drum.
26.Remove park brake assembly complete from
rear output flange.
27.Disconnect leads from transfer gearbox
temperature sensor and differential lock warning
light switch.
28.Remove banjo bolt from breather pipe, retrieve
sealing washers and lay pipe aside.
29.Remove split [cotter] pin and washers securing
differential lock to connecting rod and disconnect
rod from lever.
30.Select low range transfer gearbox position.
31.Remove high/low rod lower lock nut and remove
rod from yoke.
32.Position hoist jack channel under bell housing.
33.Using wooden block support the main gearbox
and bell housing.
34.Remove upper and lower bolts securing transfer
gearbox to main gearbox.
35.Fit guide studs 18G 1425 to main gearbox and
move transfer gearbox rearwards to detach.