1995 JEEP XJ drain bolt

(7) Disconnect the wires at the starter motor sole-
noid and injection wire harness connector.
(8) Disconnect the quick-connect fuel lines at the
fuel rail and return line by squeezing the two retain-
ing tabs against the fuel tube (Fig. 20). Pull the fuel
tube and retainer from the quick-connect fitting (re-
fer to Group 14, Fuel System for the proper proce-
dure).
(9) Remove the fuel line bracket from the intake
manifold.
(10) Disconnect the engine ground strap.
(11) Remove the air cleaner assembly.
(12) Disconnect the vacuum purge hose at the fuel
vapor canister tee.
(13) Disconnect the idle speed actuator wire con-
nector.
(14) Disconnect the throttle cable and remove it
from the bracket.
(15) Disconnect the throttle rod at the bellcrank.
(16) Disconnect the speed control cable, if
equipped.
(17) Disconnect the oxygen sensor wire connector.
(18) Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses
at the radiator.
(19) Disconnect the coolant hoses from the rear of
the intake manifold and thermostat housing.
(20) Disconnect the heater hoses.
(21) Remove the fan shroud screws.
(22) Remove the radiator attaching bolts.
(23) Remove the radiator and fan shroud.
(24) Remove the fan and spacer or Tempatrol fan
assembly.
(25) Install a 5/16 X 1/2-inch SAE capscrew
through fan pulley into water pump flange. This will
maintain the pulley and water pump in alignment
when crankshaft is rotated.
(26) Remove the power brake vacuum check valve
from the booster, if equipped.
(27) If equipped with power steering:(a) Disconnect the hoses from the fittings at the
steering gear.
(b) Drain the pump reservoir.
(c) Cap the fittings on the hoses and steering
gear to prevent foreign objects from entering the
system.
(28) Lift the vehicle and support it with support
stands.
(29) Remove the oil filter.
(30) Remove the starter motor.
(31) Remove the flywheel housing access cover.
(32) Remove the engine support cushion-to-bracket
through bolts.
(33) Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the mani-
fold.
(34) Remove the upper flywheel housing bolts and
loosen the bottom bolts.
(35) Remove the engine shock damper bracket
from the sill.
(36) Lower the vehicle.
(37) Attach a lifting device to the engine.
(38) Raise the engine off the front supports.
(39) Place a support stand under the flywheel
housing.
(40) Remove the remaining flywheel housing bolts.
(41) Lift the engine out of the engine compartment
and install on an engine stand.
(42) Install the oil filter to keep foreign material
out of the engine.
INSTALLATION
(1) Remove the oil filter.
(2) Lift the engine off the stand and lower it into
the engine compartment. For easier installation, it
may be useful to remove the engine support cushions
from the engine support brackets as an aide for
alignment of the engine-to-transmission.
(3) Insert the transmission shaft into the clutch
spline.
(4) Align the flywheel housing with the engine.
(5) Install and finger tighten the flywheel housing
lower bolts.
(6) Install the engine support cushions (if re-
moved).
(7) Remove the support stand from beneath the
flywheel housing.
(8) Lower the engine and engine support cushions
onto the engine compartment brackets. Ensure that
the bolt holes are aligned. Install the bolts and
tighten.
(9) Remove the engine lifting device.
(10) Raise the vehicle.
(11) Attach the engine shock damper bracket to
the sill.
(12) Attach the exhaust pipe to the manifold. In-
stall and tighten the nuts to 31 Nzm (23 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(13) Install the flywheel housing access cover.
Fig. 20 Fuel Line Quick-Connect Couplings
J2.5L ENGINE 9 - 21

LEAK-DOWN TEST
After cleaning and inspection, test each tappet for
specified leak-down rate tolerance to ensure zero-lash
operation (Fig. 14).
Swing the weighted arm of the hydraulic valve tap-
pet tester away from the ram of the Universal Leak-
Down Tester .
(1) Place a 7.925-7.950 mm (0.312-0.313 inch) di-
ameter ball bearing on the plunger cap of the tappet.
(2) Lift the ram and position the tappet (with the
ball bearing) inside the tester cup.
(3) Lower the ram, then adjust the nose of the ram
until it contacts the ball bearing. DO NOT tighten
the hex nut on the ram.
(4) Fill the tester cup with hydraulic valve tappet
test oil until the tappet is completely submerged.
(5) Swing the weighted arm onto the push rod and
pump the tappet plunger up and down to remove air.
When the air bubbles cease, swing the weighted arm
away and allow the plunger to rise to the normal po-
sition.
(6) Adjust the nose of the ram to align the pointer
with the SET mark on the scale of the tester and
tighten the hex nut.
(7) Slowly swing the weighted arm onto the push
rod.
(8) Rotate the cup by turning the handle at the
base of the tester clockwise one revolution every 2
seconds.
(9) Observe the leak-down time interval from the
instant the pointer aligns with the START mark on
the scale until the pointer aligns with the 0.125
mark. A normally functioning tappet will require 20-
110 seconds to leak-down. Discard tappets with leak-
down time interval not within this specification.
INSTALLATION
It is not necessary to charge the tappets with en-
gine oil. They will charge themselves within a very
short period of engine operation.(1) Dip each tappet in Mopar Engine Oil Supple-
ment, or equivalent.
(2) Use Hydraulic Valve Tappet Removal/Installa-
tion Tool C-4129-A to install each tappet in the same
bore from where it was originally removed.
(3) Install the push rods in their original locations.
(4) Install the rocker arms and bridge and pivot
assemblies at their original locations. Loosely install
the capscrews at each bridge.
(5) Tighten the capscrews alternately, one turn at
a time, to avoid damaging the bridges. Tighten the
capscrews to 28 Nzm (21 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Pour the remaining Mopar Engine Oil Supple-
ment, or equivalent over the entire valve actuating
assembly. The Mopar Engine Oil Supplement, or
equivalent must remain with the engine oil for at
least 1 600 km (1,000 miles). The oil supplement
need not be drained until the next scheduled oil
change.
(7) Install the engine cylinder head cover.
ENGINE CYLINDER HEAD
This procedure can be done with the engine in or
out of the vehicle.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAIN COCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND PRES-
SURIZED BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE
COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
(2) Drain the coolant and disconnect the hoses at
the engine thermostat housing. DO NOT waste reus-
able coolant. If the solution is clean and is being
drained only to service the engine or cooling system,
drain the coolant into a clean container for reuse.
(3) Remove the air cleaner assembly.
(4) Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
(5) Remove the capscrews, bridge and pivot assem-
blies and rocker arms (Fig. 2).
(6) Remove the push rods (Fig. 2).Retain the
push rods, bridges, pivots and rocker arms in
the same order as removed.
(7) Loosen the serpentine drive belt at the power
steering pump, if equipped or at the idler pulley (re-
fer to Group 7, Cooling System for the proper proce-
dure).
(8) If equipped with air conditioning, perform the
following:
(a) Remove the bolts from the A/C compressor
mounting bracket and set the compressor aside.
(b) Remove the air conditioner compressor
bracket bolts from the engine cylinder head.
(c) Loosen the through bolt at the bottom of the
bracket.
Fig. 14 Leak-Down Tester
J2.5L ENGINE 9 - 25

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the fan and shroud.
(3) Remove the serpentine drive belt.
(4) Remove the crankshaft vibration damper.
(5) Remove the timing case cover.
(6) Rotate crankshaft until the ``0'' timing mark is
closest to and on the center line with camshaft
sprocket timing mark (Fig. 6).
(7) Remove the oil slinger from the crankshaft.
(8) Remove the camshaft retaining bolt and re-
move the sprockets and chain as an assembly (Fig.
7).
(9) To replace the timing chain tensioner, the oil
pan must be removed.
INSTALLATION
(1) Turn the tensioner lever to the unlocked (down)
position (Fig. 8).(2) Pull the tensioner block toward the ten-
sioner lever to compress the spring. Hold the
block and turn the tensioner lever to the lock
position (Fig. 8).
(3) Apply Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant
to the keyway in the crankshaft and insert the key.
With the key in the crankshaft keyway, install the
crankshaft, camshaft sprockets and timing chain. En-
sure the timing marks on the sprockets are properly
aligned (Fig. 6).
(4) Install the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and
washer. Tighten the bolt to 108 Nzm (80 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(5) To verify correct installation of the timing
chain, turn the crankshaft to position the camshaft
sprocket timing mark as shown in Fig. 9. Count the
number of chain pins between the timing marks of
both sprockets. There must be 20 pins.
(6) Turn the chain tensioner lever to the unlocked
(down) position (Fig. 8).
(7) Install the oil slinger.
(8) Replace the oil seal in the timing case cover.
(9) Install the timing case cover and gasket.
(10) With the key inserted in the keyway in the
crankshaft, install the vibration damper, washer and
bolt. Lubricate and tighten the bolt to 108 Nzm (80 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(11) Install the fan and shroud.
(12) Connect negative cable to battery.
CAMSHAFT
REMOVAL
WARNING: THE COOLANT IN A RECENTLY OPER-
ATED ENGINE IS HOT AND PRESSURIZED. RE-
LEASE THE PRESSURE BEFORE REMOVING THE
DRAIN COCK, CAP AND DRAIN PLUGS.
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
Fig. 6 CrankshaftÐCamshaft Alignment
Fig. 7 Camshaft and Crankshaft Sprockets and
Chain
Fig. 8 Loading Timing Chain Tensioner
9 - 32 2.5L ENGINEJ

(2) Drain the cooling system. DO NOT waste reus-
able coolant. If the solution is clean, drain it into a
clean container for reuse.
(3) Remove the radiator or radiator and condenser,
if equipped with A/C (refer to Group 7, Cooling Sys-
tem for the proper procedure).
(4) Scribe a mark on the distributor housing in line
with the lip of the rotor.
(5) Scribe a mark on the distributor housing near
the clamp and continue the scribe mark on the cylin-
der block in line with the distributor mark.
(6) For ease of installation, note the position of the
rotor and distributor housing in relation to adjacent
engine components.
(7) Remove the distributor and ignition wires.
(8) Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
(9) Remove the rocker arms, bridges and pivots.
(10) Remove the push rods.
(11) Remove the hydraulic valve tappets from the
engine cylinder head.
(12) Remove the vibration damper.
(13) Remove the timing case cover.
(14) Remove the timing chain and sprockets.
(15) Remove the camshaft (Fig. 10).
INSPECTION
Inspect the cam lobes for wear.
Inspect the bearing journals for uneven wear pat-
tern or finish.
Inspect the bearings for wear.
Inspect the distributor drive gear for wear.
If the camshaft appears to have been rubbing
against the timing case cover, examine the oil pres-
sure relief holes in the rear cam journal. The oil
pressure relief holes must be free of debris.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate the camshaft with Mopar Engine Oil
Supplement, or equivalent.
(2) Carefully install the camshaft to prevent dam-
age to the camshaft bearings (Fig. 10).
(3) Turn the tensioner lever to the unlocked (down)
position (Fig. 8).
(4) Pull the tensioner block toward the ten-
sioner lever to compress the spring. Hold the
block and turn the tensioner lever to the lock
position (Fig. 8).
(5) Install the timing chain, crankshaft sprocket and
camshaft sprocket with the timing marks aligned.
(6) Install the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and
washer. Tighten the bolt to 108 Nzm (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Install the timing case cover with a replace-
ment oil seal (Fig. 11). Refer to Timing Case Cover
Installation.
(8) Install the vibration damper.
(9) Install the hydraulic valve tappets.
(10) Install the push rods.
(11) Install the rocker arms, bridges and pivots.
(12) Install the engine cylinder head cover.
(13) Position the oil pump gear. Refer to Distribu-
Fig. 9 Verify SprocketÐChain Installation
Fig. 10 Camshaft
Fig. 11 Timing Case Cover
J2.5L ENGINE 9 - 33

tor in the Component Removal/Installation section of
Group 8D, Ignition Systems.
(14) Install the distributor and ignition wires. Re-
fer to Distributor in the Component Removal/Instal-
lation section of Group 8D, Ignition Systems.
(15) Install the radiator or radiator and condenser,
if equipped with A/C.
(16) Fill the cooling system.
(17) Connect negative cable to battery.
CAMSHAFT PIN REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAIN COCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND PRES-
SURIZED BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOL-
ANT CAN OCCUR.
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Drain the radiator. DO NOT waste reusable
coolant. Drain the coolant into a clean container.
(3) Remove the fan and shroud.
(4) Disconnect the radiator overflow tube, radiator
hoses, automatic transmission fluid cooler pipes (if
equipped).
(5) Remove the radiator.
(6) If equipped with air conditioning:
CAUTION: DO NOT loosen or disconnect any air
conditioner system fittings. Move the condenser
and receiver/drier aside as a complete assembly.
(a) Remove the A/C compressor serpentine drive
belt idler pulley.
(b) Disconnect and remove the generator.
(c) Remove the A/C condenser attaching bolts
and move the condenser and receiver/drier assem-
bly up and out of the way.
(7) Remove the serpentine drive belt.
(8) Remove the crankshaft vibration damper.
(9) Remove the timing case cover. Clean the gasket
material from the cover.
(10) Rotate crankshaft until the crankshaft
sprocket timing mark is closest to and on the center
line with the camshaft sprocket timing mark (Fig.
12).
(11) Remove camshaft sprocket retaining bolt.
(12) Remove the crankshaft oil slinger.
(13) Remove the sprockets and chain as an assem-
bly (Fig. 13).
CAUTION: The following procedural step must be
accomplished to prevent the camshaft from damag-
ing the rear camshaft plug during pin installation.
(14) Inspect the damaged camshaft pin.(15) If the pin is a spring-type pin, remove the bro-
ken pin by inserting a self-tapping screw into the pin
and carefully pulling the pin from the camshaft.
(16) If the pin is a dowel-type pin, center-punch it.
Ensure the exact center is located when center-
punching the pin.
CAUTION: Cover the opened oil pan area to prevent
metal chips from entering the pan.
(17) Drill into the pin center witha4mm(5/32
inch) drill bit.
(18) Insert a self-tapping screw into the drilled pin
and carefully pull the pin from the camshaft.
CAMSHAFT BEARINGS
The camshaft rotates within four steel-shelled, bab-
bitt-lined bearings that are pressed into the cylinder
block and then line reamed. The camshaft bearing
bores and bearing diameters are not the same size.
They are stepped down in 0.254 mm (0.010 inch) in-
crements from the front bearing (largest) to the rear
Fig. 12 Timing Chain Alignment
Fig. 13 Camshaft and Crankshaft Sprocket and
Chain
9 - 34 2.5L ENGINEJ

OIL PAN
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the
engine oil.
(4) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the engine ex-
haust manifold.
(5) Disconnect the exhaust hanger at the catalytic
converter and lower the pipe.
(6) Remove the engine starter motor.
(7) Remove the flywheel/torque converter housing
access cover.
(8) Position a jack stand directly under the engine
vibration damper.
(9) Place a piece of wood (2 x 2) between the jack
stand and the engine vibration damper.
(10) Remove the engine mount through bolts.
(11) Using the jack stand, raise the engine until
adequate clearance is obtained to remove the oil pan.
(12) Remove the oil pan bolts. Carefully remove
the oil pan and gasket.
CLEANING
Clean the block and pan gasket surfaces.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 1/4ý11/2
inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot
into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier in-
stallation and removal with a screwdriver (Fig. 1).
(2) Install two dowels in the timing case cover. Install
the other two dowels in the cylinder block (Fig. 2).
(3) Slide the one-piece gasket over the dowels and
onto the block and timing case cover.
(4) Position the oil pan over the dowels and onto
the gasket.
(5) Install the 1/4 inch oil pan bolts. Tighten these
bolts to 14 Nzm (120 in. lbs.) torque. Install the 5/16
inch oil pan bolts (Fig. 3). Tighten these bolts to 18
Nzm (156 in. lbs.) torque.
(6) Remove the dowels. Install the remaining 1/4
inch oil pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 14 Nzm (120
in. lbs.) torque.(7) Lower the engine until it is properly located on
the engine mounts.
(8) Install the through bolts and tighten the nuts.
(9) Lower the jack stand and remove the piece of
wood.
(10) Install the flywheel and torque converter
housing access cover.
(11) Install the engine starter motor.
(12) Connect the exhaust pipe to the hanger and to
the engine exhaust manifold.
(13) Install the oil pan drain plug (Fig. 3). Tighten
the plug to 34 Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(14) Lower the vehicle.
(15) Connect negative cable to battery.
(16) Fill the oil pan with engine oil to the specified
level.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A DI-
RECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO
NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(17) Start the engine and inspect for leaks.
Fig. 1 Fabrication of Alignment Dowels
Fig. 2 Position of Dowels in Cylinder Block
Fig. 3 Position of 5/16 inch Oil Pan Bolts
9 - 36 2.5L ENGINEJ

OIL PUMP
The positive-displacement gear-type oil pump is
driven by the distributor shaft, which is driven by a
gear on the camshaft. Oil is siphoned into the pump
through an inlet tube and strainer assembly that is
pressed into the pump body.
The pump incorporates a nonadjustable pressure
relief valve to limit maximum pressure to 517 kPa
(75 psi). In the relief position, the valve permits oil to
bypass through a passage in the pump body to the
inlet side of the pump.
Oil pump removal or replacement will not affect
the distributor timing because the distributor drive
gear remains in mesh with the camshaft gear.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain the engine oil.
(2) Remove the oil pan.
(3) Remove the pump-to-cylinder block attaching
bolts. Remove the pump assembly with gasket (Fig.
5).
CAUTION: If the oil pump is not to be serviced, DO
NOT disturb position of oil inlet tube and strainer
assembly in pump body. If the tube is moved within
the pump body, a replacement tube and strainer as-
sembly must be installed to assure an airtight seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the oil pump on the cylinder block using
a replacement gasket. Tighten the bolts to 23 Nzm
(17 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install the oil pan and gasket.
(3) Fill the oil pan with oil to the specified level.
OIL PUMP PRESSURE
The MINIMUM oil pump pressure is 89.6 kPa (13
psi) at 600 rpm. The MAXIMUM oil pump pressure
is 255-517 kPa (37-75 psi) at 1600 rpm or more.
PISTONS AND CONNECTING RODS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
(2) Remove the rocker arms, bridges and pivots.
(3) Remove the push rods.
(4) Remove the engine cylinder head.
(5) Position the pistons one at a time near the bot-
tom of the stroke. Use a ridge reamer to remove the
ridge from the top end of the cylinder walls. Use a
protective cloth to collect the cuttings.
(6) Raise the vehicle.
(7) Drain the engine oil.
(8) Remove the oil pan and gasket.
(9) Remove the connecting rod bearing caps and in-
serts. Mark the caps and rods with the cylinder bore
location. The connecting rods and caps are stamped
with a two letter combination (Fig. 1).
(10) Lower the vehicle until it is about 2 feet from
the floor.
CAUTION: Ensure that the connecting rod bolts DO
NOT scratch the crankshaft journals or cylinder
walls. Short pieces of rubber hose, slipped over the
rod bolts will provide protection during removal.
(11) Have an assistant push the piston and con-
necting rod assemblies up and through the top of the
cylinder bores (Fig. 2).
INSPECTIONÐCONNECTING ROD
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring and
bent alignment tabs (Figs. 3 and 4). Check the bear-
Fig. 5 Oil Pump Assembly
Fig. 1 Stamped Connecting Rods and Caps
J2.5L ENGINE 9 - 39

(13) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(14) Lower the vehicle.
(15) Install the spark plugs. Tighten the plugs to
37 Nzm (27 ft. lbs.) torque.
(16) Fill the oil pan with engine oil to the full
mark on the dipstick level.
(17) Connect negative cable to battery.
REAR MAIN OIL SEALS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the flywheel or converter drive plate.
Discard the old bolts.
(2) Pry out the seal from around the crankshaft
flange (Fig. 8).
INSTALLATION
(1) Coat the outer lip of the replacement rear main
bearing seal with engine oil.(2) Carefully position the seal into place. Use rear
main Seal Installer Tool 6271 to install the seal flush
with the cylinder block.
CAUTION: The felt lip must be located inside the
flywheel mounting surface. If the lip is not posi-
tioned correctly the flywheel could tear the seal.
(3) Install the flywheel or converter drive plate.
New bolts MUST be used when installing the fly-
wheel or converter plate. Tighten the new bolts to 68
Nzm (50 ft. lbs.) torque. Turn the bolts an additional
60É.
CYLINDER BLOCK
Remove the Engine Assembly from the vehicle.
DISASSEMBLY
Refer to the applicable sections for detailed instruc-
tions.
(1) Drain the engine oil. Remove and discard the
oil filter.
(2) Remove the water pump from the cylinder
block.
(3) Remove the distributor from the cylinder block.
(4) Remove the vibration damper.
(5) Remove the timing case cover and lay the cover
upside down.
(6) Position a drift punch into the slot in the back
of the cover and tap the old seal out.
(7) Remove the timing chain bumper.
(8) Remove the oil slinger from crankshaft.
(9) Remove the camshaft retaining bolt and re-
move the sprockets and chain as an assembly.
(10) Remove the camshaft.
(11) Remove the oil pan and gasket.
(12) Remove the timing chain tensioner.
(13) Remove the front and rear oil galley plugs.
(14) Remove the connecting rods and the pistons.
Remove the connecting rod and piston assemblies
through the top of the cylinder bores.
(15) Remove the crankshaft.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole, the filter
bypass hole (Fig. 9).
²The front and rear oil galley holes (Figs. 10 and
11).
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten
the plugs to 41 Nzm (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
Fig. 7 Crankshaft End Play Measurement
Fig. 8 Replacement of Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal
J2.5L ENGINE 9 - 49