1995 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN tire type

The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems.
In the braking skid your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering
skid, too much speed or steering
in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And in the acceleration skid too much throttle causes the
driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best handled by easing your
foot off the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts
to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and
quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If
you start steering
quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a
second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other
material is on the road. For safety,
you’ll want to slow down and adjust your
driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more
limited.
While driving
on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid
sudden steering, acceleration, or braking (including engine braking by
shifting
to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide.
You may
not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding.
Learn to recognize warning clues
- such as enough water, ice or packed
snow
on the road to make a “mirrored surface” - and slow down when you
have any doubt.
Remember: Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps avoid
only the braking
skid.
Driving Guidelines
This multipurpose passenger vehicle is defined as a utility vehicle in
Consumer Information Regulations issued by the National Highway Traffic
Safety Administration (NHTSA)
of the United States Department of
Transportation. Utility vehicles have higher ground clearance and a
narrower track to make them capable
of performing in a wide variety of
off-road applications. Specific design characteristics give them a higher
center of gravity than ordinary cars. An advantage of the higher ground
clearance is a better view
of the road allowing you to anticipate problems.
They are
not designed for cornering at the same speeds as conventional
2-wheel drive vehicles any more than low-slung sports cars are designed
to
perform satisfactorily under off-road conditions. If at all possible, avoid
sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers. As with other vehicles of this type, failure
to operate this vehicle correctly may result
in loss of control or vehicle
rollover.
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NOTICE:
Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is
all right. It’s not.
If your tires don’t have enough air
(underinflation) you can get:
Too much flexing
0 Too much heat
Tire overloading
Bad wear
Bad handling
0 Bad fuel economy.
If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get:
Unusual wear
Bad handling
Rough ride
Needless damage from road hazards.
When to Check
Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the
spare tire.
How to Check
Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. Simply looking
at the tires will not tell you the pressure, especially if you have radial tires
- which may look properly inflated even if they’re underinflated.
If your tires have valve caps, be sure
to put them back on. They help prevent
leaks by keeping
out dirt and moisture.
Tire Inspection and Rotation
Tires should be inspected every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km)
for any signs
of unusual wear. If unusual wear is present, rotate your tires as
soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires
or wheels. See “When it’s Time for New Tires’’ and “Wheel Replacement”
later
in this section for more information.
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When it’s Time for New Tires
Tread Wear
Indicators
One way to tell when
it’s time for new tires
is to check the
treadwear indicators,
which will appear
when your tires have
only
1/16 inch (1.6
mm) or less of tread
remaining.
You need a new tire if
0 You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire.
e You can see cord or fidbric showing through the tire’s rubber.
The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show
cord
or fabric.
0 The tire has a bump, bulge or split.
0 The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that can’t be repaired well
because of the size or location
of the damage.
Buying New Tires
To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the
Certification/Tire label.
The tires installed
on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance
Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you
get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way, your
vehicle will
continue to have tires that are designed to give proper
endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during
normal service
on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread
design, the TPC number
will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow).
If
you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number,
make sure
they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction
type (bias, bias-belted or radial)
as your original tires.
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Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is
properly inflated and
not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or
excessive loading, either separately or
in combination, can cause heat
buildup and possible tire failure.
These grades are molded on the sidewalls of passenger car tires.
While
the tires available as standard or optional equipment on General
Motors vehicles may vary with respect to these grades, all such tires meet
General Motors performance standards and have been approved for
use on
General Motors vehicles.
All passenger type (P Metric) tires must conform
to Federal safety requirements in addition to these grades.
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance
The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the
factory
to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance.
In most cases, you will not need
to have your wheels aligned again.
However,
if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or
the other, the alignment may need
to be reset. If you notice your vehicle
vibrating when driving
on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be
rebalanced.
Wheel Replacement
Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If
wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts
should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum
wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your GM dealer if any of
these conditions exist.
Your dealer will know the kind
of wheel you need.
Each new wheel should have the same load carrying capacity, diameter,
width, offset, and be mounted the same way as
the one it replaces.
If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts,
replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you
will be
sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your
vehicle.
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Never use these to clean your vehicle:
0 Gasoline
Benzene
Naphtha
0 Carbon Tetrachloride
Acetone
Paint Thinner
Turpentine
0 Lacquer Thinner
0 Nail Polish Remover
They can all be hazardous
- some more than others - and they can all
damage your vehicle, too.
Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can.
In many uses, these
will damage your vehicle:
Alcohol
Laundry Soap
Bleach
Reducing Agents
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl or
leather with a clean, damp cloth.
Your GM dealer has two GM cleaners,
a solvent-type spot lifter and a
foam-type powdered cleaner. They
will clean normal spots and stains very
well.
Do not use them on vinyl or leather.
Here are some cleaning tips:
0 Always read the instructions on the cleaner label.
0 Clean up stains as soon as you can - before they set.
0 Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft
brush may be used if stains are stubborn.
Use solvent-type cleaners in a well-ventilated area only. If you use
them, don’t saturate the stained area.
0 If a ring forms after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or
it will set.
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If your engine has more than one emissions classification, the classification
is determined by the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of your vehicle
as shown on the Certification Label. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the
Index.
Once you’ve determined your engine type and,
if necessary, emissions
classification, you’ll need
to decide which of the two schedules is right for
your vehicle. See Definitions for Maintenance Schedule I and Maintenance
Schedule I1 following.
Schedule I Definition - Gasoline Engines With Light Duty
Emissions
Follow Maintenance Schedule I if any one of these is true for your vehicle:
0 Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km). This is particularly
important when outside temperatures are below freezing.
stop-and-go traffic).
0 Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in
0 You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or off-road frequently.
You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle.
Schedule
I should also be followed if the vehicle is used for delivery
service, police, taxi, or other commercial application.
Schedule I Intervals - Gasoline Engines With Light Duty
Emissions
Every
3,000 Miles (5 000 km) or 3 Months
Engine Oil and Filter Change
Chassis Lubrication
Drive Axle Service
At 6,000 Miles (10 000 km) - Then Every 12,000 Miles (25 000 km)
Tire Rotation
Every 15,000 Miles (25 000 km)
Air Cleaner Filter Inspection, if driving in dusty conditions
Front Wheel Bearing Repack (or at each brake relining)
(2WD Only)
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