Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine The front axle portion of the diagram on the indicator will light up when
you shift into four-wheel drive. A slight delay between shifting and the
pattern’s lighting is normal. If the pattern does not light up, or
if the front
axle lights do not go out after you shift out of four-wheel drive, have your
dealer check your system. Turn the INT LIGHTS switch located to the right
of your headlight switch
to dim your transfer case indicator light when your
headlights or parking lights are
on. This will also cause your instrument
panel lights to dim.
2HI - This setting is for driving in most street and highway situations.
Your front axle is not engaged in two-wheel drive.
4HI - This setting engages your front axle to help drive your vehicle. Use
4HI when you need extra traction, such as on snowy or icy roads, or in most
off-road situations.
N SET PARK BRAKE - Shift to this neutral setting only when your
vehicle needs to be towed.
4LO - This setting also efigziges your front axle to give you extra traction
and provides extra gear reduction. You may never need 4LO. It
sends the
maximum power to all four wheels. You might choose 4LO if you were
driving off-road in sand, mud, or deep snow and climbing or descending
steep hills.
You can shift from 2HI to 4HI
or from 4HI to 2HI while the vehicle is
moving.
Do not press the transfer case shift lever button when shifting from
2HI to
4HI or from 4HI to 2HT. Your front axle will engage faster if you
take your foot off of the accelerator for a few seconds after you shift.
To shift your transfer case into N SET PARK BRAKE:
1. Stop the vehicle and shift your transmission into NEUTRAL
(N).
2. Set the parking brake. Your vehicle can roll unless the brakes are
applied.
3. Pull the transfer case shift lever into N SET PARK BRAKE.
To shift into or out of 4LO:
1. The vehicle must be stopped or moving less than 3 mph (4.8 km/h)
with the transmission in NEUTRAL
(N) for an automatic transmission
or the clutch pedal depressed with a manual transmission.
2. Press the transfer case shift button and shift in one continuous motion.
Don’t pause in
N SET PARK BRAKE as you shift into or out of 4L0, or
your gears could clash.
Remember that driving in 4HI or 4LO may reduce fuel economy. Also,
driving in four-wheel drive
on dry pavement could cause your tires to wear
faster and make your transfer case harder to shift and reduce powertrain
longevity.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No
amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. “I’ll be
careful” isn’t the right answer. What if there’s an emergency, a need to take
sudden action, as when a child darts into the street?
A person with even a
moderate
BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the
collision.
There’s something else about drinking and driving that many people don’t
know. Medical research shows that alcohol
in a person’s system can make
crash injuries worse, especially injuries
to the brain, spinal cord or heart.
This means that when anyone who has been drinking
- driver or passenger
- is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled
is higher than if the person had not been drinking.
Control of a Vehicle
You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go.
They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three systems have
to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road.
Sometimes, as when you’re driving on snow or ice, it’s easy to ask more
of
those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you
can lose control of your vehicle.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine To Use Four-wheel Anii-Lock
Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down and let anti-lock
work for
you. You may feel the brakes vibrate, or you may notice some
noise, but
this is normal.
On vehicles with four-wheel drive, your anti-lock brakes work at all
times
- whether you are in two-wheel drive or four-wheel drive.
To Use Rear- Wheel Anii-Lock
Use rear-wheel anti-lock like regular brakes. You may feel the brakes
vibrate, or
you may notice some noise outside your vehicle, but this is
normal. Let anti-lock work for you, but remember: Your front wheels can
still stop rolling. If that happens, release enough pressure
on the brakes to
get the wheels rolling again
so that you can steer.
Braking in Emergencies
At some time, nearly every driver gets into a situation that requires hard braking.
The four-wheel anti-lock system
lets you steer and brake at the same time.
If you have the rear-wheel anti-lock braking system, your front wheels can
stop rolling when you brake very hard. Once they do, the vehicle can’t
respond to your steering. Momentum will carry
it in whatever direction it
was headed when the front wheels stopped rolling. That could be off the
road, into the very thing you were trying
to avoid, or into traffic.
So, unless you have four-wheel anti-lock, use a “squeeze” braking
technique. This will give
you maximum braking while maintaining steering
control. You do this by pushing on the brake pedal with steadily increasing
pressure. When you do, it
will help maintain steering control. In many
emergencies, steering can help
you more than even the very best braking.
Steering
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is
not functioning,
you can steer but it will take much more effort.
Steering Tips
Driving on Curves
It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed.
A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen
on curves. Here’s why:
Experienced driver
or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of
physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you ,turn
the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in
the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle
on wet ice, you’ll
understand this.
The traction you can get in a curve depends
on the condition of your tires
and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your
speed. While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control.
Suppose you’re steering through
a sharp curve. Then you suddenly apply
the brakes. Both control systems
- steering and braking - have to do their
work where the tires meet the road. Unless
you have four-wheel anti-lock
brakes, adding the hard braking can demand
too much of those places. You
can lose control.
The same thing
can happen if you’re steering through a sharp curve and you
suddenly accelerate. Those two control systems - steering and acceleration
- can overwhelm those places where the tires meet the road and make you
lose control.
What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the brake or
accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow
down.
Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of
course, the posted speeds are based
on good weather and road conditions.
Under less favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower.
If
you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you
enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead.
Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a
reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until
you are out of the curve,
and then accelerate gently into the straightaway.
Steering in Emergencies
There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For
example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car
suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts
out from between parked
cars and stops right in front of
you. You can avoid these problems by
braking
- if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t
room. That’s the time for evasive action
- steering around the problem.
Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply
your brakes
- but, unless you have four-wheel anti-lock, not enough to
lock your front wheels.
It is better to remove as much speed as you can from
a possible collision. Then steer around the problem,
to the left or right
depending on the space available.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 0 Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on two-lane roads.
Reconsider before passing
the next vehicle.
0 Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly. Even though the
brake lamps are
not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to
turn.
0 If you’re being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get
ahead of
you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.
Loss of Control
Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three
control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough
friction where the tires meet the road to do what
the driver has asked.
In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying
to steer and constantly seek an
escape route or area of less danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid
most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by
not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible.
The three types
of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems.
In the braking skid your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering
skid, too much speed or steering
in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And in the acceleration skid too much throttle causes the
driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best handled by easing your
foot off the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts
to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and
quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to
go. If you start steering
quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten
out. Always be ready for a
second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction
is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other
material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want
to slow down and adjust your
driving
to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more
limited.
While driving on
a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid
sudden steering, acceleration, or braking (including engine braking by
shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause
the tires to slide.
You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding.
Learn to recognize warning clues
- such as enough water, ice or packed
snow on the road
to make a “mirrored surface” - and slow down when you
have any doubt.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving
There are some important things to remember about how to load your
vehicle.
The heaviest things should be on the load floor and forward of your
rear axle. Put heavier items as far forward as you can.
Be sure the load is secured properly, so driving on the off-road terrain
doesn’t toss things around.
You’ll find other important information in this manual. See “Vehicle
Loading,” “Luggage Carrier’’ and “Tires” in the Index.
Traveling to Remote Areas
It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going to a remote area.
Know the terrain and plan your route. You are much less likely to get bad
surprises. Get accurate maps
of trails and terrain. Try to learn of any
blocked or closed roads.
It’s also a good idea to travel with at least one other vehicle. If something
happens to one of them, the other can help quickly.
Does your vehicle have a winch?
If so, be sure to read the winch
instructions. In a remote area, a winch can be handy if
you get stuck. But
you’ll want to know how
to use it properly.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Q: Am I likely to stall when going downhill?
A: It’s much more likely to happen going uphill. But if it happens going
downhill, here’s what to do.
Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes. Apply the parking
brake.
Shift to PARK (P) (or to Neutral with the manual transmission) and,
while still braking, restart the engine.
Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake, and drive straight
down.
0 If the engine won’t start, get out and get help.
Driving Across an lncline
Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill.
If this happens, you have to decide whether to
try to drive across the incline.
Here are some things to consider:
A hill that can be driven straight up or down may be too steep to drive
across. When you go straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel
base (the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels) reduces the
likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when you drive
across an incline, the much more narrow track width (the distance
between the left and right wheels) may not prevent the vehicle from
tilting and rolling over. Also, driving across an incline puts more
weight on the downhill wheels. This could cause a downhill slide or a
rollover.
Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive across a hill.
Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause your tires to
slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit
something that will trip it (a rock,
a rut, etc.) and roll over.
Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the incline even worse. If
you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill
wheels drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more.
For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully whether
to try to drive
across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline doesn’t mean
you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Driving In Mud, Sand, Snow, Or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels won’t get good traction.
You can’t accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you’ll need
longer braking distances.
It’s best
to use a low gear when you’re in mud - the deeper the mud, the
lower the gear.
In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving
so you don’t get stuck.
When
you drive 6fi Sad, you’ll sense a change in wheel traction. But it will
depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as
on
beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has an
effect on steering, accelerating, and braking. You may want to reduce the air
pressure in your tires slightly when driving on sand. This will improve
traction.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces.
it’s very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is
so poor
that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if
you do get moving, poor
steering and difficult braking can cause
you to slide out of control.
Driving In Water
Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems. But heavy rain can
mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before
you drive through it. If it’s deep
enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe, don’t try it
- you
probably won’t get through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle and
other vehicle parts.
If the water isn’t too deep, then drive through it slowly. At fwt speeds, water
splashes
on your ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also
occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is
under water, you’ll never be able
to start your engine. When you go through
water, remember that when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to
stop.
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