1995 CHEVROLET S10 ESP

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:
Start your engine;
Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See
the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially
important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system, and brake
adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help
you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a
good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to
see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.
Trailer Lighting Systems Wiring
See “Trailer Wiring Harness” in the Index.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged,
the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most every day
driving conditions the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy
and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or
high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when
the clutch engages.
So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be
mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the
cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when
additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away
as the fan clutch disengages.
if a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you
maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of
a tire, it’s much more likely to
leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips
about what to expect and
what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire
will create a drag that pulls the vehicle
toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the
steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a
stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may
require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove
your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and
noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if
possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to
change a flat tire safely.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your
engine.
If you’re using fuel rated at
91 octane or higher and you still hear heavy
knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if
you hear a little
pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal,
and
you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of it. It’s the heavy,
constant knock that means
you have a problem.
What about gasoline with blending materials that contain oxygen
(oxygenates), such as MTBE or alcohol?
MTBE is “methyl tertiary-butyl ether.” Fuel that is no more than 1 5%
MTBE is fine for your vehicle.
Ethanol is ethyl or grain alcohol. Properly-blended fuel that is no more than
10% ethanol is fine for your vehicle.
Methanol is methyl or wood alcohol.
NOTICE:
Fuel that is more than 5% methanol is bad for your vehicle.
Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel syst\
em and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t b\
e
covered under your warranty. And even at
5% or less, there
must be “cosolvents” and corrosion preventers in this fuel\

to
help avoid these problems.
Gasolines for Cleaner Air
Your use of gasoline with deposit control additives will help prevent
deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system. That helps keep your
engine
in tune and your emission control system working properly. It’s good
for your vehicle, and you’ll be doing your part for cleaner air.
Many gasolines are now blended with oxygenates. General Motors
recommends that you use gasolines with these blending materials, such as
MTBE and ethanol. By doing
so, you can help clean the air, especially in
those parts of the country that have high carbon monoxide levels.
In addition, some gasoline suppliers are now producing reformulated
gasolines. These gasolines are specially designed
to reduce vehicle
emissions. General Motors recommends that you use reformulated gasoline.
By doing
so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the
country that have high ozone levels.
You should ask your service station operators if their gasolines contain
deposit control additives and oxygenates, and
if they have been
reformulated to reduce vehicle emissions.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change
A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the
engine oil is changed. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine
when to change your fluid. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the
Index.
How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this
done at your GM dealership Service Department.
If
you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could
get a false reading on the dipstick.
I NOTICE:
Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too
much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall\

on
hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure
to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you
have been driving:
When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
0 At high speed for quite a while.
0 In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather.
0 While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating
temperature, which
is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C).
To check transmission fluid hot: Get the vehicle warmed up by driving
about
15 miles (24 krn) when outside temperatures are above 50°F ( 1 0°C).
If it’s colder than 50°F (lO”C), drive the vehicle in THIRD GEAR (D) until
the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for ten minutes.
Then follow the hot check procedures.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid
level must be
in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT area or
cross-hatched area for a hot check.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all
the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick
in place.
How to Add Fluid
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission
fluid to use.
See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid HOT.
(A COLD check
is used only as
a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the
proper fluid to bring the level up to the
HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t
take much fluid, generally less than a int.
Don ’I overjill. We recommend
you use only fluid labeled DEXRON -111, because fluid with that label is
made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid
other than DEXRON@-I11 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.
After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to
8
Check.”
When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all
the wav: then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.
6- 16

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine NOTICE:
~~
Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is
all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air
(underinflation) you can get:
Too much flexing
Too much heat
Tire overloading
Bad wear
Bad handling
Bad fuel economy.
If your tires have too much air (overinflati
Unusual wear
Bad handling
Rough ride
Needless damage from road hazards. can
get
‘e re
When to Check
Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the
spare tire.
How to Check
Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. Simply looking
at the tires will not tell you the pressure, especially if you have radial tires
- which may look properly inflated even if they’re underinflated.
If your tires have valve caps, be sure to put them back on. They help prevent
leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.
Tire Inspection and Rotation
Tires should be inspected every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km)
for any signs of unusual wear. If unusual wear is present, rotate your tires as
soon
as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires
or wheels. See “When it’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement”
later in
this section for more information.
6-41

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Uniform Tire Quality Grading
The following information relates to the system developed by the United
States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration which grades tires
by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to
vehicles sold in the United States.)
Treadwear
The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the
tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test
course. For example, a tire graded
150 would wear one and a half (1 112)
times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative
performance
of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use,
however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in
driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and
climate.
Traction -A, By C
The traction grades, from highest to lowest are: A, B, and C. They represent
the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled
conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete.
A
tire marked C may have poor traction performance.
Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on braking
(straight-ahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning)
traction.
Temperature - A, 9, C
The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s
resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when
tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test
wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material
of the tire to
degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to
sudden tire failure. The grade
C corresponds to a level of performance
which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle
Safety Standard
No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of
performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by
law.
6-44

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is
properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or
excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat
buildup and possible tire failure.
These grades are molded on the sidewalls of passenger
car tires.
While the tires available as standard or optional equipment on General
Motors vehicles may vary with respect to these grades, all such tires meet
General Motors performance standards and have been approved for use on
General Motors vehicles. All passenger type
(P Metric) tires must conform
to Federal safety requirements in addition to these grades.
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance
The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the
factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance.
In most cases, you will not need to have your wheels aligned again.
However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or
the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle
vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be
rebalanced.
Wheel Replacement
Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If
wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts
should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum
wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your GM dealer if any of
these conditions exist.
Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.
Each new wheel should have the same load carrying capacity, diameter,
width, offset, and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.
If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts,
replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you
will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your
vehicle.
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