Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the
trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle
you are
driving is now
a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive
as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load
is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you
would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This
can
help you avoid situations that require heavy braking
and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return
to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to
the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if
possible, have someone guide you.
Making Turns
I NOTICE:
Making very sharp turns while trailering could
cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle.
Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal.
Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well
in advance.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have a
different
turn signal flasher and extra wiring. The green
arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the green arrows
on your
instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on
the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers
behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes
so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your
speed
to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the
possibility of engine and transaxle overheating. If
you are towing a trailer, you may want to drive in
DRIVE (D) instead
of OVERDRIVE (0) (or, as you
need to, a lower gear).
Parking on Hills
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer
attached, on
a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig
could start to move. People can be injured, and both
your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But
if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking
brake, and then shift to PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
Start your engine;
Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill),
engine
oil, belts, cooling system, and brake adjustment.
Each
of these is covered in this manual, and the Index
will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s
a good idea to review these sections before you start
your trip.
Check periodically
to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are
tight.
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Brakes
Brake Master Cylinder
Your brake master cylinder is here. It is filled with
DOT-3 brake fluid.
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level
in
your master cylinder might go down. The fiist is that the
brake fluid goes down to
an acceptable level during
normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in,
the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that
fluid is leaking out of the brake system.
If it is, you should have your brake system
fixed, since a leak means
that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or
won’t work at all.
So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’
your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a
leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then
you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake
linings. You should add
(or remove) brake fluid, as
necessary, only when work is done on the brake
hydraulic system.
When
your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake
warning light will come on. See “Brake System Warning
Light” in the Index.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine What to Add
When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake
fluid
-- such as Delco Supreme 11’ (GM Part No.
1052535). Use new brake fluid from a sealed container
only, and always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap
before removing it.
Brake Wear
Your Chevrolet has front disc brakes and rear drum
brakes.
I NOTICE:
0 Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of
fluid. For example, just
a few drops of
mineral-based
oil, such as engine oil, in
your brake system can’damage brake
system parts
so badly that they’ll have to be
replaced.
0 Brake fluid can damage paint, so be careful
not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If
you do, wash
it off immediately. See
“Appearance Care” in the Index.
Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make
a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are
worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come
and
go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving
(except when you are pushing on the brake pedal
firmly).
NOTICE:
Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads
could result in costly brake repair.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake
squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly
applied. This does not mean something is wrong with
your brakes.
Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but
if
you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear
brake linings inspected. Also, the rear brake drums
should be removed and inspected each time the tires are
removed for rotation or changing. When you have the
front brakes replaced, have the rear brakes inspected,
too
*
Brake linings should always be replaced as complete
axle sets.
Brake Pedal Travel
See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to
normal height, or
if there is a rapid increase in pedal
travel. This could be a sign
of brake trouble.
Brake Adjustment
Every time you make a moderate brake stop, your disc
brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or
heavier stop, then your brakes might not adjust correctly.
If you drive in that way, then
-- very carefully -- make a
few moderate brake stops about every
1,000 miles
(1 600 km), so your brakes will adjust properly.
Replacing Brake System Parts
The braking system on a modern vehicle is complex.
Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well
together if the vehicle is to have really good braking.
Vehicles
we design and test have top-quality GM brake
parts in them, as your Chevrolet does when it is new.
When you replace parts of your braking system
-- for
example, when your brake linings wear down and you
have to have new ones put in
-- be sure you get new
genuine
GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your
brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if
someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your
vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes
can change
-- for the worse. The braking performance
you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways
if
someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.
Battery
Every new Chevrolet has a Delco Freedom@ battery.
You never have to add water to one of these. When
it’s time for a new battery, we recommend a Delco
Freedom@ battery. Get one that has the replacement
number shown on the original battery’s label.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Steering Column Lock
While parked, and with the parking brake set, try to turn
the key to LOCK
in each shift lever position.
0 The key should turn to LOCK only when the shift
lever is
in PARK (P).
The key should come out only in LOCK.
Parking Brake and Automatic Transaxle PARK (P)
Mechanism Check
Park on a fairly steep hill, with the vehicle facing
downhill. Keeping your foot
on the regular brake, set
the parking brake.
To check the parking brake: With the engine running
and transaxle in NEUTRAL
(N), slowly remove foot
pressure from the regular brake pedal.
Do this until
the vehicle
is held by the parking brake only.
To check the PARK (P) mechanism’s holding ability:
Shift to PARK (P). Then release all brakes.
Underbody Flushing
At least every spring, use plain water to flush any
corrosive materials from the underbody. Take care
to
clean thoroughly any areas where mud and other debris
can collect.
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Part C: Periodic Maintenance
Inspections
Listed below are inspections and services which should
be performed at least twice a year (for instance, each
spring and fall). You should let your
GM dealer’s service
department or other qualified service center do these jobs.
Make sure
any necessary repairs are completed at once.
Restraint Systems
Now and then, make sure all your belts, buckles, latch
plates, retractors, anchorages and reminder systems are
working properly. Look for any loose parts or damage.
If you see anything that might keep a restraint system
from doing its job, have it repaired.
Steering, Suspension and
Front-Wheel-Drive Axle Boot
and
Seal Inspection
Inspect the front and rear suspension and steering
system for damaged, loose or missing parts, signs of
wear, or lack of lubrication. Inspect the power steering
lines and hoses for proper hookup, binding, leaks,
cracks, chafing, etc. Clean and then inspect the drive
axle boot seals for damage, tears or leakage. Replace
seals
if necessary.
Exhaust System Inspection
Inspect the complete exhaust system. Inspect the body
near the exhaust system. Look for broken, damaged,
missing or out-of-position parts as well as open
seams,
holes, loose connections, or other conditions which
could cause a heat build-up
in the floor pan or could let
exhaust fumes into the vehicle. See “Engine Exhaust”
in
the Index.
Throttle Linkage Inspection
Inspect the throttle linkage for interference or binding,
and for damaged or missing parts. Replace parts as
needed.
Brake System Inspection
Inspect the complete system. Inspect brake lines and
hoses for proper hookup, binding, leaks, cracks, chafing,
etc. Inspect disc brake pads
for wear and rotors for
surface condition.
Also inspect drum brake linings for
wear and cracks. Inspect other brake parts, including
drums, wheel cylinders, calipers, parking brake, etc.
Check parking brake adjustment.
You may need to have
your brakes inspected more often if your driving habits
or conditions result in frequent braking.
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