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Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged,
the fan spins faster
to provide more air to cool the engine. In most every day
driving conditions
the fan is spinning slower and clutch is not fully engaged.
This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle
loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases as
the clutch more fully engages. So you may hear an increase in
fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission
slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required
and
the clutch partially disengages.
You may also hear
this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away
as
the fan clutch partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s UfluSual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you
maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to
leak
out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,’’ here are a few tips
about what
to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle
toward that side. Take your foot off
the accelerator pedal and grip the
steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a
stop well
out of the traffic lane.
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NOTICE:
Fuel that is more than 5 % methanol is bad for your vehicle.
Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and
also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be
covered under your warranty. And even at
5% or less, there
must be “co~olvent~” and corrosion preventers in this fuel to
help avoid these problems.
Gasolines for Cleaner Air
Your use of gasoline with deposit control additives will help prevent
deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system. That helps keep your
engine
in tune and your emission control system working properly. It’s good
for your vehicle, and you’ll be doing your part for cleaner air.
Many gasolines are now blended with oxygenates. General Motors
recommends that
you use gasolines with these blending materials, such as
MTBE and ethanol. By doing
so, you can help clean the air, especially in
those parts of the country that have high carbon monoxide levels.
In addition, some gasoline suppliers are now producing reformulated
gasolines. These gasolines
are specially designed to reduce vehicle
emissions. General Motors recommends that you use reformulated gasoline.
By doing
so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the
country that have high ozone levels.
You should ask your service station operators if their gasolines contain
deposit control additives and oxygenates, and if they have been
reformulated to reduce vehicle emissions.
Diesel Fuel Requirements and Fuel System
Some states and provinces have restrictions on the purchase of diesel fuel
for light-duty vehicles and require you to buy permits or pay special taxes.
Some
of these restrictions apply only to residents, and others apply to both
residents and visitors. These restrictions can change.
To learn the current
restrictions in any state or province, contact your auto club, the police or
other officials.
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Cold Weather Operation
In cold weather (below 20”F, or -7”C), use 1-D or “Winterized” Number
2-D fuel (a blend of I-D and 2-D). Be sure you get the right fuel. In very
cold temperatures (when
it stays below 0°F or -1 8OC), use Number 1-D.
If you’re driving in very cold temperatures and can’t get Number I-D or a
“winterized” Number
2-D, you can use one gallon of kerosene for every
two gallons
of diesel fuel. Once you add the kerosene, run your engine for
several minutes
so the fuels will mix. Add kerosene only when the
temperature falls below
0°F (-1 8” C), because the fuel economy of kerosene
isn’t
as good as that of diesel fuel.
NOTICE:
Never use home heating oil or gasoline in your diesel engine.
They can cause engine damage.
In cold weather, your fuel filter may become clogged (waxed), especially if
you use Number
2-D diesel fuel that hasn’t been “winterized.” To unclog it,
warm the filter to between 32°F and 50°F (0°C to 10°C). You won’t need
to replace
it.
Water in Fuel
Sometimes, water can be pumped into your fuel tank along with your diesel
fuel. This can happen
if a service station doesn’t regularly inspect and clean
its
fuel tanks, or if it gets contaminated fuel from its suppliers.
If this happens,
a “WATER IN FUEL” light will come on. If it does, the
excess water must be drained. Your dealer can do this
for you.
This light also should
come on briefly when
you start your engine,
as a check. If it
doesn’t, have it fixed
so it will be there to
let you know if you
ever
do get water in
your fuel.
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I NOTICE:
Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too
much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on
hot engine parts or exhaust system, starting
a fire. Be sure to get
an accurate reading
if you check your transmission fluid.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you
have been driving:
0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
At high speed for quite a while.
0 In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather.
While pulling a trailer.
IU get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating
temperature, which
is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C).
To check trunsmissioltfluid hot: Get the vehicle warmed up by driving
about
15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (1 0°C).
If it’s colder than
50°F (lO”C), drive the vehicle in “D” (3rd Gear) until the
engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for ten minutes.
Then follow
the hot check procedures.
To check trmzsnzissiorz jZuid cold: A cold check is made after the vehicle has
been sitting for eight hours
or more with the engine off and is used only as a
reference. Let
the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures
are
50°F ( 10°C) or more. If it’s colder than 50°F (lO”C), you may have to
idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check,
you must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a
more accurate reading of the fluid level.
To check the fluid hot or cold
Park your vehicle on a level place.
With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in “P” (Park).
With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each
gear range, pausing for about three seconds
in each range. Then,
position
the shift lever in “P’ (Park).
Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.
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How to Add Fluid
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission
fluid
to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
If the fluid level is low, add
only enough of the proper fluid to bring the
level up to the COLD area for a cold check or the HOT area for a hot check.
It doesn’t take much tluid, generally less than a pint. Don’t overfill. We
recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@-111 or DEXRON@-IIE,
because fluids with that label are made especially for your automatic
transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than
DEXRON@-Ill or
DEXRON@-IIE is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.
After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to
Check.”
When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all
the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.
Manual Fluid
When to Check
A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However,
the fluid
in your manual transmission doesn’t require changing.
How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this
done at a
GM dealership Service Department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could
get
a false reading.
NOTICE:
Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too
much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on
hot engine parts or exhaust system, starting a fire. Be sure to get
an accurate reading if
you check your transmission fluid.
Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on
a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers
on the transmission case.
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find the load on each tire and see the label for the minimum cold inflation
pressures
for that load.
NOTICE:
Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is
all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air
(underinflation) you can get:
Too much flexing
Too much heat
Tire overloading
Bad wear
Bad handling
Bad fuel economy.
If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get:
Unusual wear
Bad handling
Rough ride
‘Needless damage from road hazards.
When io Check
Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the
spare tire.
How to Check
Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. Simply looking
at the tires
will not tell you the pressure, especially if you have radial tires
- which may look properly inflated even if they’re underinflated.
If your tires have valve caps, be sure to put them back on. They help prevent
leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.
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Uniform Tire Quality Grading
The following information relates to the system developed by the Un\
ited
States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration which grade\
s tires
by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applie\
s only to vehicles sold in the United States.)
Treadwear
The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the
tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified gov\
ernment test
course. For example, a tire graded
150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2)
times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative
performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use,
however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in
driving habits, service practices and differences in road charac\
teristics and
climate.
Traction -A, B, C
The traction grades, from highest to lowest are: A, B, and C. They represent
the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled
conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A
tire marked
C may have poor traction performance.
Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on braking
(straight-ahead) traction tests and does not include cornering \
(turning)
traction.
Temperature - A, B, C
The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s
resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when
tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laborat\
ory test
wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to
degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can \
lead to
sudden.tire failure. The grade
C corresponds to a level of performance
which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle
Safety Standard
No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of
performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by
law.
Warning: The temperature grade for
this tire is established for a tire that is
properly inflated ad not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or
excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat
buildup and possible tire failure.
These grades are molded on the sidewalls
of passenger car tires.
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While the tires available as standard or optional equipment on General
Motors vehicles may vary with respect
to these grades, all such tires meet
General Motors performance standards and have been approved for use on
General Motors vehicles. All passenger type
(P Metric) tires must conform
to Federal safety requirements in addition to these grades.
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance
The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the
factory
to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance.
In most cases,
you will not need to have your wheels aligned again.
However,
if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or
the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If
you notice your vehicle
vibrating when driving on
a smooth road, your wheels may need to be
rebalanced.
Wheel Replacement
Repla@ Zm wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted. If wheel nuts keep
coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If
the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can
sometimes be repaired). See your GM dealer if any of these conditions exist.
Your dealer will know
the kind of wheel you need.
Each new wheel should have the same load carrying capacity, diameter,
width, offset, and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.
If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts,
replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way,
you
will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your
GM model.
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