1994 GMC SIERRA torque

@ (Automatic Overdrive)
This position is for normal driving. If you need more power for
passing, and you’re:
- Going less than about 35 mph (56 km/h), push your accelerator
pedal about halfway down.
- Going about 35 mph (56 kdh) or more, push the accelerator all
the way down.
You’ll shift down to the next gear and have more power.
@ should not be used when towing a trailer, carrying a heavy load,
driving
on steep hills, or for off road driving. Select “D”(third gear)
when operating the vehicle under any
of these conditions.
D (Third Gear)
This is like @, but you never go into Overdrive. You should use “D”
when towing a trailer, carrying a heavy load, driving on steep hills, or
for off-road driving.
2 (Second Gear)
This position gives you more power but lower fuel economy. You can
use
“2” on hills. It can help control your speed as you go down steep
mountain roads, but then you would
also want to use your brakes off
and
on. If you manually select “2”, the transmission will drive in
second gear. You may use this feature for reducing torque to the rear
wheels when
you are trying to start your vehicle from a stop on
slippery road surfaces.
1 (First Gear)
This position gives you even more power (but lower fuel economy)
than
“2.” You can use it on very steep hills, or in deep snow or mud. If
the selector lever is put in “1 ,” the transmission won’t shift into first
gear
until the vehicle is going slowly enough.
b
NOTICE:
If your rear wheels can’t rotate, don’t try to drive. This might
happen if you were stuck in very deep sand or mud or were up
against
a solid object. You could damage your transmission.
Also,
if you stop when going uphill, don’t hold your vehicle there
with only the accelerator pedal. This could overheat and damage
the transmission. Use your brakes
or shift into “P” (Park) to
hold your vehicle in position on a hill.
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NOTICE:
Driving with the parking brake on can cause your rear brakes to
overheat. You may have
to replace them, and you could also
damage other parts of your vehicle.
If you are towing a trailer and are parking on any hill: See “Towing a
Trailer” in the Index. That section shows what to do first to keep the trailer
from moving.
Propshaft Brake Burnish Procedure
If you have a 3500 HD model, it is recommended that the propshaft
mounted parking brake be burnished
as part of the new vehicle break in.
The parking brake will work best after it has been burnished following these
instructions.
Make
10 (ten) stops, using the parking brake foot pedal, from 20 mph
(32 kdh) about
2 1/2 miles (4 km) apart. In between stops, drive the
vehicle at
20 mph (32 km/h).
Torque Lock
The parking brake should be set first whenever you leave the driver’s seat.
If you are parked on
a hill and the transmission is placed in “P” (Park)
before
the parking brake is set, the weight of the vehicle may put too much
force
on the parking pawl in the transmission. It may be difficult to pull the
selector lever out
of “P’ (Park). This is called “torque lock.” To prevent this,
the parking brake should be set
BEFORE moving the gear selector to “P’
(Park).
When preparing to move
a vehicle parked on a hill, the selector lever should
be moved out of
“P’ (Park) BEFORE releasing the parking brake. Even
when
on level surfaces, its a good idea to set the parking brake first before
shifting
the transmission from “P” (Park).
If torque lock does occur, you may have to have another vehicle nudge your
vehicle uphill a little to take some
of the pressure off the transmission while
you pull the selector lever out of “P” (Park).
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5. Remove the key and take it with you. If you can walk away from your
vehicle with
the ignition key in your hand, your vehicle is in “P”
(Park).
Leaving Your Vehic/e With the Engine Running
(Automatic Transmission Models Only)
If you have to leave your vehicle with the engine running, be sure your
vehicle is
in “P” (Park) and your parking brake is firmly set before you
leave it. If you have four-wheel drive with a manual transfer case shift
lever, be sure that the transfer case
is in a drive gear - not in “N” (Neutral).
After you’ve moved the
shift lever into the “P’ (Park) position, hold the
regular brake pedal down. Then, see if
you can move the shift lever away
from “P” (Park) without first pulling it toward
you. If you can, it means that
the shift lever wasn’t
fully locked into “P” (Park).
Torque Lock (Automatic Transmission)
If you are parking on a hill and you don’t shift your transmission into “P”
(Park) properly,
the weight of the vehicle may put too much force on the
parking pawl
in the transmission. You may find it difficult to pull the shift
lever out of
“P’ (Park). This is called “torque lock.” To prevent torque lock,
set the parking brake and then shift into “P’ (Park) properly before you
leave
the driver’s seat. To find out how, see “Shifting Into ‘P’ (Park)” in the
Index.
When you are ready to drive, move the
shift lever out of “P” (Park)
BEFORE you release the parking brake.
If “torque
lock” does occur, you may need to have another vehicle push
yours
a little uphill to take some of the pressure from the transmission, so
you can pull the shift lever out of “P’ (Park).
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Tighten to the Left Tightening Sequence
Tighten the nuts firmly in a criss-cross sequence as shown. Rotate the
ratchet to the right with the
UP marking facing you.
For proper torque, see “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.
Put the wheel trim back on. For vehicles with plastic nut caps, tighten the
c3ps until they
are finger tight, then tighten them an additional one-half turn
with the ratchet. Remove any wheel blocks.
Remember, the jack and tire must be properly stored
in their original storage
position before you begin driving again. The next part, “Storing the Jack
and Tire,” will show
you how.
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Wheel Nut Torque
For vehicle with dual wheels, wnen the vehicle, wheel or Tasteners are new,
have the torque set at
the first 100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (1 60, 1600 and
9600 km). Use the torque specified
in the appropriate Specification Chart
later
in this section.
Single Belt Accessory Drive
If your new vehicle uses a serpentine belt, it is lighter and more durable than
systems with several belts.
The belt runs over or around the pulleys on the engine.
A tensioner may be
used
to keep the belt tight at all times. The tensioner also makes replacing
the belt easier.
If you need to replace the belt, be sure to get the correct
replacement belt. Your dealership or parts supplier can help you with this.
The Accessory Drive belt Routing label on your vehicle will show
you how
to route
the belt your vehicle uses.
Windshield Wiper Blade Inserts
To replace the
windshield wiper
blade insert, lift the
wiper arm and rotate
the blade until
it is
facing away from the
windshield.
Unlatch
the end of the insert from the holding clips. Remove the insert and
slide a new
one in place. Make sure the blade is secured in the clips.
Air Conditioning
Every now and then have your dealership check your air conditioning
system
to be sure it has not lost any cooling ability. If you think the system
is not working properly, have your dealership check it out as soon as
possible.
The air conditioning
will not work when the temperature is below 40°F
(4°C).
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If your vehicle has front tires with different load ratings or tread designs
(such
as all season vs. on/off road) than the rear tires, don’t rotate your tires
front
to rear.
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressure
as shown on the CertificatiodTire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are
properly tightened. See “Wheel
Nut Torque” in the Index.
A CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened,
When It’s Time for New Tires
TREAD WEAR
INDICATORS
One way to tell when
it’s time for
new tires
is to check the
treadwear indicators,
which
will appear
when your tires have
only
2/32 inch (1.6
mm) or less of tread
remaining.
You need a
new tire if:
0 You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire.
0 You can see cord or Fabric showing through the tire’s rubber.
0 The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show
cord or fabric.
The tire has a bump, bulge or split.
The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that can’t be repaired well
because
of the size or location of the damage.
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Engine ldenfificafion - Diesel Engines
Engine
Type VIN Code
Fuel System
Produced
By
Emissions
6.5L
V8
P
Diesel
U.S.
LD
Wheel Nut Torque
MODEL
C 1500
K 1500 & C-K 2500
C-K 2500 (w/C6P)
C-K 3500-Single Rear
Wheels
C3500-Dual Rear Wheels
C3500 HD-Front
C3500 HD-Rear
6.5L
V8
S
Turbo Diesel
us.
LD
DESCRIPTION
5 bolts (I41nm)
6 bolts (14mm)
8 bolts ( I4mm)
8 bolts (14mm)
8 bolts (14mm)
5 bolts (5/8 in.)
10 bolts (5/8 in.)
6.5L
V8
F
Turbo Diesel
U.S.
HD
TORQUE
120 ft. Ibs. (160 Nom)
120 ft. lbs. ( 160 Nom)
120 ft. lbs. (160 Nom)
120 ft. lbs.
(1 60 Nom)
140 ft. Ibs. (190 Nom)
175
ft. lbs. (240 Nom)
175
ft. Ibs. (240 Nom)
Cooling System Capacity
ENGINE
4.3L
VIN QTY Without A/C* QTY With AlC*
2 10.9 Quarts (10.3 Liters) 10.9 Quarts (10.3 Liters)
5 .OL H 17.5 Quarts (16.5 Liters) 18 Quarts (17 Liters)
5.7L
K 17.5 Quarts (16.5 Liters) 18 Quarts (17 Liters)
5.7L w/3500
K 26.5 Quarts (25 Liters) 27 Quarts (25.5 Liters)
HD
6.5L P 25 Quarts (23.5 Liters)
6.5L
S 25 Quarts (23.5 Liters)
6.5L
F 26.5 Quarts (25 Liters)
7.4L
N 23 Quarts (22 Liters)
7.4L
w/3500 N 26.5 Quarts (25 Liters)
HD
25 Quarts (23.5 Liters)
25 Quarts (23.5 Liters)
26.5 Quarts (25 Liters)
25 Quarts (23.5 Liters)
28.5 Quarts (27 Liters)
After refill, the level MUST be checked as outlined under “Engine Cooling
System”
in Section 5.
*All quantities are approximate.
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18. EVAPORATIVE CONTROL SYSTEM (ECS) INSPECTION* -
Check all fuel and vapor lines and hoses for proper hookup, routing,
and condition. Check that
the purge valve works properly, if equipped.
Replace as needed.
19.
SHIELDS AND UNDERHOOD INSULATION
INSPECTIONAV
- Inspect shields and underhood insulation for
damage or looseness. Adjust or replace as required.
system installation
to see that gaskets are sealed properly and all hose
connections, fasteners, and other components are tight. Also check to
be sure that the air cleaner housing is properly seated, that
the cover fits
tightly, and
the wing nuts are tight. Tighten connections and fasteners
or replace damaged parts
as required.
20. AIR INTAKE SYSTEM INSPECTIONAV - Check the air intake
2 1. THERMOSTATICALLY CONTROLLED ENGINE COOLING
FAN INSPECTIONAV
- (If so equipped.) Inspect all hoses and
ducts for proper hook-up. Be sure the valve works properly.
22. EXHAUST PRESSURE REGULATOR VALVE INSPECTION”
- Check that the valve works properly. Correct any binding. Inspect
hoses for cracks, chafing
or decay. Replace parts as needed.
23. TIRE AND WHEEL ROTATION AND INSPECTION - For
proper wear and maximum tire life, rotate tires at the first
6,000 miles
( 10 000 kilometers) for Schedule I (+) or 7,500 miles (1 2 500
kilometers) for Schedule IT (0) and then every 15,000 miles (25 000
kilometers) thereafter. Follow the instructions and patterns shown in
Section 6. Check tires for uneven wear or damage. If irregular or
premature wear is apparent, check wheel alignment. Also, check or
damaged wheels. See “Tires”
in the Index for more information.
For dual wheels, whenever the vehicle, wheels, or fasteners are new,
have the wheel fastener torque set at the first
100, 1,000 and 6,000
miles (1 60, 1600 and 10 000 km).
Block the tires opposite those being removed to keep the vehicle from
rolling.
‘i: An Emission Control Service
ANoise Emission Control Service
VApplicable only to vehicles sold
in the United States
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