1994 FIAT PUNTO lever

Every 10 000 miles - petrol models ia.q
10 Pollen filter renewal
1 The pollen filter (where fitted) is located under the engine bulkhead cover panel. 2 Refer to Chapter 12 and remove both svindscreen wiper arms. 3 Unclip the rubber
seal
from the relevant end of
the
top of the engine compartment bulkhead. 4 Unscrew the retaining fastener screws and pull out the fasteners securing the bulkhead cover panel in position. Release the cover panel Irom the base of the windscreen and remove it from the vehicle. 5 Pivot the pollen filter cover upwards and away then release the retaining clips and withdraw the filter from its housing (see illustration). 6 Wipe clean the filter housing then fit the new filter. Clip the filter securely in position and refit the cover. 7 Refit the trim cover, securing it in position with Ihe fasteners, and seat the rubber seal on
the
bulkhead.
11 Idle speed and ^
CO
content check J and adjustment ^
1 The idle speed is controlled by the ECU via a stepper motor located on the side of the throttle body and is not adjustable. 2 The exhaust gas oxygen content is constantly monitored by the ECU via the Lambda sensor, which is mounted in the exhaust down pipe. The ECU then uses this information to modify the injection timing and duration to maintain the optimum air/fuel ratio.
3 Experienced home mechanics with a considerable amount of skill and equipment (including a good-quality tachometer and a good-quality, carefully calibrated exhaust gas analyser) may be able to check the exhaust CO level and the idle speed. However, if these are found to be in need of adjustment, the car must be taken to a suitably-equipped Fiat dealer for testing using the special test equipment which is plugged into the diagnostic connector.
12 Steering and ^ suspension check
front suspension and steering check 1 Raise the front of the vehicle, and securely support it on axle stands (see Jacking and
vehicle support).
2 Inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steehng rack-and-pinion gaiters for spirts, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of these will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 On vehicles with power steering, check the fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steering gear. 4 Qrasp the roadwheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions, and try to rock it (see illustration). Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation Is necessary to determine the source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the movement is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free play is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the suspension joints or mountings. 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track-rod balljoints. If the inner or outer balljoint is worn, the visual movement will be obvious.
12.4 Rocking a roadwheel to check for wear in the steering/suspension components 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber. 7 With the car standing on its wheels, have an assistant tum the steering wheel back and forth about sn eighth of a turn each way. There should be very little, if any. lost movement between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously described, but in addition, check the steering column universal joints for wear, and the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.
Suspension strut/ shock absorber check 8 Check for any signs of fluid leakage around the suspension strut/shock absorber body, or from the rubber gaiter around the piston rod. Should any fluid be noticed, the suspension strut/shock absorber is defective internally, and should be renewed. Note: Suspension struts/shock absorbers should always be renewed in pairs on the same axle. 9 The efficiency of the suspension strut/shock absorber may be checked by bouncing the vehicle at each corner. Generally speaking, ihe body will return to its normal position and stop after being depressed. If it rises and returns on a rebound, the suspension strut/shock absorber is probably suspect. Examine also the suspension strut/shock absorber upper and lower mountings for any signs of wear.
Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or 2 years
13 Auxiliary drivebelt{s) check % and renewal ^
Note: Fiat specify the use of a special tool to cooectfyset the drivebelt tension. If access to ibis equipment cannot be obtained, an
approximate setting can be achieved using the method described below. If the method described is used, the tension should be checked using the special tool at the earliest possible opportunity. 1 Depending on equipment fitted, one. two or three auxiliary drivebelts may be fitted. The alternator, power steering pump and air
conditioning compressor, as applicable, are each driven by an Individual drivebelt.
Checking 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 3 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up

Every 20 000 miles - petrol models 1A.13
20 Ignition system check
81
21 Engine management system check

A


Warning: Voltages produced by an electronic ignition system are considerably higher than those produced by conventional ignition systems. Extreme care must be taken when working on the system with the Ignition switched on. Persons with surgically-Implanted cardiac pacemaker devices should keep well clear of the ignition circuits, components and test oquipment. 1 The ignition system components should be checked for damage or deterioration as follows.
General component check 2 The spark plug (HT) leads should be checked whenever new spark plugs are fitted. 3 Pull the leads from the plugs by gripping
the end
fitting, not the lead, otherwise the lead connection may be fractured.
Ensure that the leads are i numbered before removing i them, to avoid confusion when refitting
4 Check Inside the end fitting for signs of corrosion, which will look like a white crusty powder. Push the end fitting back onto the spark plug, ensuring that it is a tight fit on the plug. if not, remove the lead again and use pliers to carefully crimp the metal connector inside the end fitting until it fits securely on the
end
of the spark plug. 5 Using a clean rag, wipe Ihe emlre length of the lead to remove any built-up dirt and grease. Once the lead is clean, check for bums, cracks and other damage. Do not bend the lead excessively, nor pull the lead lengthways - the conductor inside might break. 6 Disconnect the other end of the lead from the ignition coll. Again, pull only on the end fitting. Check for corrosion and a tight fit in the
same
manner as the spark plug end. Refit the bad securely on completion. 7 Check the remaining leads one at a time, in
ihe same
way. 8 if new spark plug (HT) leads are required, purchase a set for your specific car and engine. 9 Even with the ignition system In first-class condition, some engines may still occasionally experience poor starting attributable to damp ignition components. To disperse moisture, a water-dispersant aerosol should be liberally
Ignition timing -
check
and adjustment 10 Check the ignition timing as described In Chapter 58.
1 This check is part of the manufacturer's maintenance schedule, and Involves testing Ihe engine management system using special dedicated test equipment. Such testing will allow the test equipment to read any fault codes stored in the electronic control unit memory. 2 Unless a fault is suspected, this test te not essential, although it should be noted that it is recommended by the manufacturers. 3 If access to suitable test equipment is not possible, make a thorough check of all ignition, fuel and emission control system components, hoses, and wiring, for security and obvious signs of damage. Further details of the fuet system, emission control system and ignition system can be .found In the relevant parts of Chapters 4 and 5.
22 Hinge and lock lubrication %
1
1 Lubricate the hinges of the bonnet, doors and tailgate with a light general-purpose oil. Similarly, lubricate ail latches, locks and lock strikers. At the same time, check the security and operation of all the locks, adjusting them If necessary (see Chapter 11). 2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet release mechanism and cable with a suitable grease.
23 Headlight beam adjustment % & ^
1 Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam is only possible using optical beem-setting equipment, and this work should therefore be carried out by a Fiat dealer or service station with the necessary facilities. In an emergency, however, the following procedure will provide an acceptable light pattern. 2 Position the car on a level surface with tyres correctly inflated, approximately 10 metres in front of. and at right-angles to, a wall or garage door, 3 Draw a horizontal line on the wall or door at headlamp centre height. Draw a vertical line corresponding to the centre line of the car, then measure off a point either side of this, on the horizontal line, corresponding with the headlamp centres. 4 Switch on the main beam and check that the areas of maximum illumination coincide with the headlamp centre marfcs on Ihe wall, if not. turn the adjustment screw located on the upper inside edge of the headlight unit to adjust the beam laterally, and the adjustment screw located on the upper outside edge of the headlight unit to adjust the beam
vertically. On models with electric headlight adjustment, make sure that it is set at its basic setting before making the adjustment.
24 Road test
Instruments and electrical equipment 1 Check the operation of all Instruments and electrical equipment. 2 Make sure that all instruments read correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment in turn, to check that it functions properly.
Steering and suspension 3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road feel. 4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises. 5 Check that the steering feels positive, with no excessive sloppiness, or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering and driving over bumps.
Drivetrain 6 Check the performance of the engine, clutch (where applicable), transmission and driveshafts. 7 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine, clutch and gearbox/transmission. 8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when Idling, and that there Is no hesitation when accelerating. 9 Check that, where applicable, the clutch action Is smooth and progressive, that the drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal travel is not excessive. Also listen for any noises when the clutch pedal is depressed. 10 On manual gearbox models, check that all gears can be engaged smoothly without noise, and that the gear lever action is not abnormally vsgue or notchy. 11 On automatic transmission models, check that all Ihe gear positions can be selected with the vehicle at rest, if any problems are found, they should be referred to a Flat dealer. 12 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock. Carry out this check in both directions. If a clicking noise is heard, this Indicates wear in a drtveshaft joint, In which case renew the joint if necessary.
Check the braking system 13 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard. 14 Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking. 15 Check that the handbrake operates correctly without excessive movement of the lever, and that It holds the vehicle stationary on a slope.

Every 10 000 miles - diesel models ib«9
4 Completely unscrew the filter and pour the remaining contents into the container. Ensure (hat the rubber sealing ring comes away with
me
fitter and unscrew the drain screw from the
bottom
of tho filter (see illustrations). 5 Wipe clean the contact surfaces then smear
a
ittfe fuel on the sealing rubber of the new Nter. 6 Screw on the new filter fully using the hands orty. 7 Prime the fuel system and start the engine wth reference to Chapter 4C. Check for any signs of fuel leakage around the new filter.
13 Air fitter renewal
t Release the retaining clips and withdraw
Ihe
air cleaner cover a little way from the main body. Leave the cover attached to the inlet duct. 2 Lift out the filter element (see illustration). 3 Remove any debris that may have collected Inside the air cleaner and wipe the Inner surfaces clean. 4 Fit a new air filter element in position, ensuring that the edges are securely seated. 6 Refit the air cleaner top cover and snap the retaining clips into position.
14 Pollen filter renewal
t
1 The pollen filter (where fitted) Is located under the engine bulkhead cover pane). 2 Refer to Chapter 12 and remove both windscreen wiper arms. 3 Undp tho rubber seal from the relevant end of
the top
of the engine compartment bulkhead. 4 Unscrew the retaining fastener screws and Duiout the fasteners securing the bulkhead eovar panel in position. Release the cover panel from the base of the windscreen and remove it from the vehicle. 5 Pivot the pollen filter cover upwards and away then release the retaining clips and withdraw the filter from Its housing (see lustration).
12.3 Using an olt filter strap to loosen the fuel filter 6 Wipe clean the filter housing then fit the new filter, Clip the filter securely In position and refit the cover. 7 Refit the trim cover, secunng it >n position with the fasteners, and seat Ihe rubber seal on the bulkhead.
12.4a Removing the fuel filter
15 Steering and §S> suspension check ^
Front suspension and steering check 1 Raise the front of the vehicle, and securely support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 2 Visually Inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steering rack-and-pinion gaiters for splits, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of Ihese components will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 On vehicles with power steering, check the fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steenng gear. 4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions, and try to rock it (see illustration). Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation is necessary to determine the
fplllll iHpjiiisisps fa^aJw a LJgr >
H58B92
12.4b Showing the drain screw components on the bottom of the fuel filter source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the movement Is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free ptay is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there Is wear In the suspension joints or mountings. 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track-rod balljoints. If the inner or outer balljoint Is worn, the visual movemont will be obvious. 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar. check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber.
13.2 Removing the air filter element 14.5 Location of pollen filter 15.4 Rocking a roadwheel to check for wear in the steering/suspension components

Every 20 000 miles - diesel models ib.h
18
Valve clearance check and
adjustment
1 The Importance of having the valve clearances correctly adjusted cannot be Distressed, as they vitally affect the performance of the engine. Adjustment should only be necessary when the valve gear nas become noisy, after engine overhaul, or when trying to trace the cause of power loss. The clearances are checked as follows. The engine must be cold for the check to be ttcurate. 2 Apply the handbrake then jack up the right-hand front of the vehicle and support on an axle stand (see Jacking and vehicle support). Engage 4th gear. The engine can now be rotated by turning the right-hand front roadwfteei. 3 Remove ail four glove plugs as described In Chapter 5C. 4 Remove the air cleaner cover and air duct
then
remove the camshaft cover as described
in
Chapter 2C. 6 Each valve clearance must be checked wnen the high point of the cam is pointing directly upward away from the cam follower. 6 Check the clearances in the firing order 1-3-4-2, No 1 cylinder being at the timing belt end of the engine. This will minimise the amount of crankshaft rotation required. 7 Insert the appropriate feeler blade between
the heel
of the cam and the cam follower shim of the First valve (see Illustration). If necessary alter the thickness of the feeler blade until it is a stiff, sliding fit. Record the thickness, which will, of course, represent the
vafve
clearance tor Ihis particular valve. 8 Turn the engine, check the second valve devance and record it. t Repeat the operations on all the remaining valves. recording their respective clearances. 10 Remember that the clearance for inlet and exhaust valves differs - see Specifications. Counting from the timing cover end of the
engine,
the valve sequence is: Wef 2-4-5-7 Etfiat/sf 7-3-6-8
11 Where clearances are incorrect the particular shim will have to be changed. To remove the shim, turn the crankshaft until the high point of the cam is pointing directly upward. The cam follower will now have to bo depressed so that the shim can be extracted. Special tools are available from your Fiat dealer to do the job. otherwise you will have to make up a forked lever to locate on the rim of ihe cam follower. This must allow room for the shim to be prised out by means of the cut-outs provided in the cam follower rim (see illustration). 12 Once Ihe shim is extracted, establish Its thickness and change it for a thicker or thinner one to bring the previously recorded clear-ance within specification, For example, if the measured valve clearance was 1.27 mm too great, a shim thicker by this amount will be required. Conversely, if the clearance was 1.27 mm too small, a shim thinner by this amount will be required. 13 Shims have their thickness (mm) engraved on ihem; although the engraved side should be fitted so as not to be visible, wear still occurs and often obliterates the number. In this case, measuring their thickness with a metric micrometer is the only method to establish their thickness (see illustration). 14 In practice, if several shims have to be changed, they can often be interchanged, so avoiding the necessity of having to buy more new shims than is necessary. 15 If more than two or three valve clearances are found to be incorrect, it will be more convenient to remove the camshaft lor easier removal of the shims. 16 Where no clearance can be measured, even with the Ihinnest available shim in position, the valve will have to be removed and the end of its stem ground off squarely. This will reduce its overall length by the minimum amount to provide a clearance. This job should be entrusted to your dealer as it is important to keep the end of the valve stem square. 17 On completion, refit the camshaft cover and gasket, air cleaner and duct, and glosvplugs. 18 Lower the vehicle to the ground.
19 Hinge and lock lubrication
I
1 Lubricate the hinges of the bonnet, doors and tailgate with a light general-purpose oil. Similarly, lubricate all latches, locks and lock stnkers. At the same time, check the security and operation of all the locks, adjusting them if necessary (see Chapter 11). 2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet release mechanism and cable with a suitable grease.
20 Headlight beam adjustment
I
1 Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam Is only possible using optical beam-setting equipment, and this work should therefore be carried out by a Fiat dealer or service station with the necessary facilities. In an emergency, however, the following procedure will provide an acceptable light pattern. 2 Position the car on a level surface with tyres correctly inflated, approximately 10 metres in front of, and at right-angles to, a wall or garage door. 3 Draw a horizontal tine on the wall or door at headlamp centre height. Draw a vertical line corresponding to the centre line of the car. then measure off a point either side of this, on the horizontal line, corresponding with the headlamp centres. 4 Switch on the main beam and check that the areas of maximum Illumination coincide with the headlamp centre marks on the wall. If not, turn the adjustment screw located on the upper Inside edge of the headlight unit to adjust the beam laterally, and the adjustment screw located on the upper outside edge of the headlight unit to adjust the beam vertically. On models with electric headlight adjustment, make sure that it Is set at its basic setting before making the adjustment,

1B«12 Every 20 000 miles - diesel models
21 Road test
Instruments and electrical equipment 1 Check the operation of atl instruments and electrical equipment. 2 Make sure that all instruments read correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment rn turn, to check that It functions properly. Steering and suspension 3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road feel. 4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises. 5 Check that the steering feete positive, with no excessive sloppiness, or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering and driving over bumps. Drivetrain 6 Check (he performance of the engine, clutch, transmission and driveshafts.
7 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine, clutch and transmission. 8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when Idling, and that there is no hesitation when accelerating. 9 Check that the clutch action is smooth and progressive, that tho drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal travel Is not excessive. Also listen for any noises when the clutch pedal is depressed. 10 Check that all gears can be engaged smoothly without noise, and that the gear lever action Is not abnormally vague or notchy. 11 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from ihe front of the vehicle, as the vehicle « driven slowly In a circle with the steering on full-lock. Carry out this check In both directions, if a clicking noise is heard, this Indicates wear in a driveshaft |oinl, in which case renew the joint if necessary.
Check the braking system 12 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard.
13 Check that there Is no vibration through the steering when braking. 14 Check that the handbrake operates correctiy without excessive movement of th« lever, end that it holds the vehicle stationery on a slope. 15 Test the operation of the brake servo unit as follows. With the engine off, depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum. Hold the brake pedal depressed, then start the engine. As the engine starts, there should be a noticeable give In the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed now, it should be possible to detect a hiss from the servo es the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no fimher hissing should be heard, and the pedal should feel considerably harder. Note: The vacuum for the servo unit is provided by the vacuum pump mounted on the left-hand end of t/ie cylinder head.
Every 30 000 miles (45 000 km) or 3 years
22 Manual transmission oil level check ;5§
1 Park the vehicle on a level surface. If possible over an inspection pit or on a ramp as the filler/level plug is best reached from under Ihe engine compartment. The oil level must be checked before the car Is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. If the oil is checked Immediately after driving the car. some of the oil will remain distnbuted around the transmission compo-nents, resulting In an inaccurate level reading. 2 Wipe clean the area around the filler/level plug, which is situated on tho front of the
transmission (see illustration). Using an Allen key. unscrew the plug and clean it. 3 The oil level should reach the lower edge of the filler/level hole. A certain amount of oil will have gathered behind the filler/level plug, and will trickle out when it is removed; this does not necessarily Indicate that the level Is correct. To ensure that a true level Is established, wait until the Initial trickle has stopped, then add oil as necessary until a trickle of new oil can be seen emerging. The level will be correct when the flow ceases; use only good-quality oil of the specified type-Make sure that the vehicle Is completely level when checking the level and do not overfill. 4 When the level is correct refit and tighten the plug and wipe away any spilt oil.
22.2 Transmission filler/level plug location
Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km) or 4 years
23 Rear brake shoe check
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the rear of the car and support It on axle stands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support), Remove the rear roadwhecla. 2 Using the inspection hole at the edge ot the brake drum, check that the linings are not worn below the minimum thickness given In the Spec ifi cat Ions (see Illustration). If necessary use a torch. 3 If the friction material on any shoe is worn down to the specified minimum thickness or iess. all four shoes must be renewed as a set, 4 At the same time check for signs of brake fluid leakage. 5 For a comprehensive check, the brake
drum should be removed and cleaned. This will allow the wheel cylinders to be checked, and the condition of the brake drum itself to be fully examined (see Chapter 9). 8 Refit the rubber plugs then lower the car to the ground.
24 Timing belt renewal
Refer to Chapter 2C. Note: Although the normal interval for timing belt
ranees/a!
is 70 000
mHes
(105 000
km),
it is strong recommended that the interval is reduced on vehicles which are subjected to intensive use, ie, mainly short journeys or a lot of stop-start driving. The actual belt renewal interval is therefore very much up to tho individual owner.
That being said, it is highly recommended to err on the side of safety, and renew (he belt at
this
earlier interval, bearing in mind the drastic consequences resulting from belt fetfure.
23.2 Check the thickness of the shoe friction material through the hole on the edge of the drum (arrowed)

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
6.3 Camshaft cover gasket
not attempt to lover it ofl • instead free >t by working around the cover and lapping it lightly with a soft-faced mallet, 3 Recover the camshaft covor gasket {see Illustration). Inspect the gasket carefully. And renew It If damage or deterioration is evident. 4 Clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and camshaft cover thoroughly, removing all traces of oil and old gasket - take care to avoid damaging the surfaces as you do this.
Refitting 5 Locate a new gasket on the cylinder head and make sure it Is correctly seated. 6 Lower the cover onto the gasket making sure the gasket is not displaced. 7 Insert Ihe mounting bolts and tighten them progressively to the specified torque. 8 Refit the air cleaner assembly and inlet duct with reference to Chapter 4A or 48.
7 Camshaft oil seal • renewal I
1 Remove the timing beft and camshaft sprocket as described in Sections 4 and 5, 2 Using a suitable hooked Instrument, remove the oil seal from the cylinder head taking care not to damage the surface of (he camshaft. 3 Clean the seating in the cylinder head and the end of the camshaft. To prevent damage to the new olf seal as it is being fitted, wrap some adhesive tape around the end of the camshaft and lightly oil it.
4 Dip the new oil seal In oil then locate it over the camshaft making sure that the sealing lips are facing inwards, 5 Using a suitable tubular drift, drive the oil seal squarely Into the cylinder head. Remove the adhesive tape. 8 Refit the camshaft sprocket and liming belt wtth reference to Sections 5 and 4.
8 Crankshaft oil seals - ^ renewal S
Front (right-hand side) oil seal 1 The fronl oil seal is located in tho oil pump on the front of the crankshaft. Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4 and the crankshaft sprocket as described in Section 5. 2 Using a hooked instrument, remove the oil seal from the oil pump casing taking care not to damage the surface of the crankshaft. 3 Clean Ihe seating in the housing and the surface of the crankshaft. To prevent damage to the new oil seal as it is being fitted, wrap some adhesive tape around the end of the crankshaft and lightly oil it. 4 Dtp the new oil seal In oil then offer It up 1o the oil pump casing making sure that tho sealing lips are facing Inwards. G Using a suitable tubular drift, drive the oil seal squarely into the casing. Remove the adhesive tape. 6 Refit the crankshaft sprocket and timing belt with reference to Sections S and 4.
Rear {left-hand side) oil seal Note: The following paragraphs describe renewal of the rear oil seal leaving the housing in position. Refer to Chapter 2D for details of removing the housing. 7 Remove the fiywheel/drlveplate as described in Section 10. 8 Using a suitable hooked instrument, remove the oil seal from the rear oil seat housing taking care not to damage the surface of Ihe crankshaft. 9 Clean the seating In the nousing and the surface of the crankshaft. Check the crankshaft for burrs which may damage the sealing lip of the new seal, and If necessary use a fine file to remove them,
10 Dip the new seal In clean engine oil and carefully locate it over the crankshaft rear flange making sure that It is the correct way round. 11 Progressively tap the oil seal Into the housing keeping It square to prevent distortion. A block of wood is useful for this purpose. 12 Refit the fiywheet/drlvepiate with refer-ence to Section 10.
9 Cylinder head -removal and refitting I
i Removing the timing belt inner covers 9.12 Removing the cylinder head
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative termine! (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A. then remove the air cleaner and ducting as described in Chapter 4A or 48. 3 Disconnect the accelerator cable and controls from the throttle housing. 4 Disconnect the fuel hoses. 5 Disconnect the coolant and vacuum hoses from the cylinder head and inlet manifold. 6 Disconnect all electrical leads noting their location. 7 Remove the Ignition colls with reference to Chapter 58. 8 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4, then unbolt end remove the timing belt inner covers (see Illustration). 9 Unbolt and remove the Inlet manifold, complete with throttle housing. On MPI models unbolt the fuel rail. 10 Unbolt the exhaust manifold from th» cylinder head, and tie it to the front of tto engine compartment. If preferred remove the manifold completely by unbolting Ihe downpipe. Also disconnect iha downpipe bracket. 11 Unscrew the cylinder head bolts hall a turn at a time in the reverse order to thai shown In illustration 9.24b. When the bolts in free, remove them wtth their washers. 12 Lift the cylinder head from Ihe block (see Illustration), if It is stuck tight Insert pieces
of
wood Into the exhaust or Inlet ports, and use them as levers to rock the head off the block. On no account drive levers into the gasket joint, nor attempt to tap the head sideways,
as
It Is located on positioning dowels. 13 Remove and discard the cylinder heed gasket and the manifold gaskets. 14 The cylinder head can be dismantled after removing the camshaft and cam followers as described in Chapter 2D. 15 If the valves have been ground-in, the valve clearances will require adjusting, as described In Chapter 1A. This should be dons before the cylinder head is refitted to the engine.

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
10.10 Tighten the flywheel bolt to the specified torque However, it may be possible lo have it surface*ground; seek (he advice of a Rat dealer or engine reconditioning specialist, 5 If Ihe ring gear is badly worn or has missing teeth, the flywheel must be renewed. Automatic transmission models 6 Check the driveplate for signs of damage and renew it if necessary. If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing teeth, the driveplate must be renewed.
Refitting 7 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel/ drivoplate and crankshoft. Remove any remaining locking compound from the threads of the crankshaft holes, using the correct-size tap. if available.
ft a suitable tap fs not . # | available, cut two slots down jHlNTI
toe
threads of ono of the old bolts with a hacksaw, and use the bolt to remove the locking compound from the throads.
8 If the new retaining bolts are not supplied with their threads already pre-coated, apply a suitable thread-locking compound to the threads of each bolt. 9 Offer up the fiywhee'/drlveplate lo the crankshaft, using the alignment marks made during removal, and fit the new retaining bolts (together with the spacer plate on manual transmission models), 10 Lock the flywheel/dnveplate using Ihe method employed on dismantling, and tighten
the retaining bolts to the specified torque (see illustration), 11 Refit the clutch on manual transmission models as described in Chapter 6. 12 Relit the transmission as described In Chapter 7A or 78.
11 Engine mountings • inspection and renewal
inspection 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 2 Check Ihe mounting rubbers to see if they are cracked, hardened or separated from the metal at any point; renew the mounting if any such damage or deterioration is evident. 3 Check that all the mounting's fasteners are securely tightened; use a torque wrench to check II possible. 4 Using a large screwdriver or a crowbar, check for wear In the mounting by carefuliy levering against It to check for free play. Where this is not possible enlist the
aid
of
an
assistant to move the engina/transmission back
and
forth, or from s»de to side, while you watch the mounting. While some free play rs to bo expected even from new components, excessive wear
should
be obvious. If excessive free play is found, check first that the fasteners are correctly secured, then renew any worn components as described below.
Renewal Right-hand mounting 5 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 8 Place a trolley jack beneath the right-hand side of Ihe engine, with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting the weight of the engine. 7 Unscrew the nut securing the engine bracket to the mounting. 8 Lower the engine slightly then unboll the mounting from the body. 9 Locate the new mounting on the body, insert the bolts and tighten to the specified torque.
10 Raise tne engine and locate the bracket on the mounting. Refit tho nut and tighten lo the specified torque. 11 Remove the trolley jack and lower the vehicle to the ground. Left-hand mounting 12 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support) 13 Place a trolley |sck beneath the transmission, with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack until it is supporting tne weight of the engine/transmission. 14 Unscrew Ihe bolts securing the left-hand mounting to tho body. 15 Unscrew the nut securing ihe mounting to the transmission bracket and recover the washers. 16 Lower the transmission sufficiently to remove the mounting from the transmission bracket. 17 Locate the new mounting In the trans-mission bracket and refit the nut and washers. Tighten the nut to the specified torque. 18 Raise the engine and refit the mounting-to-body bolts. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque. 19 Remove the Irolloy jack and lower the vehicle lo the ground. Rear mounting 20 Firmly apply the handbrake, then Jack up the front of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 21 Working beneath Ihe vehicle, unscrew Ihe bolts secunng the rear engine mounting to the underbody. 22 Temporarily support the weight of the engine/transmission using a trolley jack. 23 Unbolt the rear mounting assembly from Ihe transmission and withdraw from under the vehicle. 24 Unscrew the bolt and separate Ihe bracket from tlve mounting. 28 Fitting the new mounting Is a reversal of the removal procedure.
12 Sump -removal and refitting
12.2 Removing the flywheel housing cover plate 12.4 Removing the sump
Removal 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter 1 A. 2 Unbolt and remove the cover plate from the lower pari of the llywheel housing (see illustration). 3 Refer to Chapter 4D and unbolt the exhaust Iront pipe from Ihe manifold. Undo Ihe support bracket fastenings and lower the front pipe clear of the sump. 4 Unscrew the sump securing screws and nuts and pull the sump downwards to remove it (see Illustration). The joint sealant will

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
require cutting with a sharp Knife to release
the sump.
Clean away all old gasket material. Refitting
5
Wwn refitting, a bead of RTV silicone nsiant gasket 3 mm in diameter should be applied lo the sump flange. Fit the sump, screw in tha fixing screws and tighten to the spscabed torque. Note the flange end fixing
nuts
(see illustrations).
6
'//ait one hour for the gasket compound to henjai before filling with engine oil. 7 Refit the flywheel housing cover plate and tohaust system front pipe.
8
lower the vehicle to the ground and fill the eng'rewith oil (see Chapter 1A). Check the oil
fevai
alter running the engine for a few minutes.

13 Oil
pump and pick-up tube - >>>
removal,
inspection and ^ refitting ^
Removal 1 Drain tho engine oil and remove the sump adsswibed in Section 12.
%
Unscrew and remove the oil filter cartridge .
(see
Chapter 1A|. 3 Remove the timing belt as described In
Section A.
4
Lock
the crankshaft against rotat>on either by tfacng a block of wood between a crankshaft wb and the inside of the crankcase, or by jjmning the flywheel starter ring gear with a
lutabfe
tool.
I3v8a Removing the oil pump pressure relief valve
12.5a Tightening a sump fixing screw
5 Unscrew and remove the crankshaft sprocket boll and take off the sprocket. If it is tight, use two screwdrivers to lever it off, or use a two or three-legged puller. 6 Unbolt and remove the oil pick-up/filter screen assembly. Note the sealing washer. 7 Extract the oil pump fixing bolts and withdraw the pump. Remove the gasket.
Inspection 8 The oil pump incorporates a pressure relief valve, which can be removed for examination by depressing the spring plunger and pulling out the keeper plate (see illustrations). 9 If pump wear Is suspected, check the gears in the following way. Extract the fixing screws and remove the rear cover plate. The screws are very tight, and will probably require the use of an impact screwdriver (see illustration).
pressure relief valve
12.5b Sump fixing screw and flange end fixing nut
10 Check the clearance between the outer gear and the pump housing using feeler blades. Check the gear endtloat by placing a straightedge across the pump body, and checking the gap between the straight-edge and gear face (see illustrations). If the clearances are outside the specified tolerance, renew the oil pump complete. 11 If the pump is unworn, refit the rear cover plate and tighten the screws fully. 12 Apply air pressure from a tyre pump to the oil pump oil ducts, to clear any sludge or other material. Prime the pump by pouhng clean engine oil into its inlet duct, at the same time turning the oil pump inner gear with the fingers. 13 Lever out the oil seal and drive a new one squarely into the oil pump casing (see illustrations). Lubricate the oil seal lips.
13.9 Using an impact screwdriver to remove the oil pump rear cover pfate screws
13,19s Measuring oil pump outer gear-to- 13.10b Measuring oil pump gear endtloat pump housing clearance