Fuel system - diesel models 4C*3
2.7a Unscrew the bolt... 2.7b ... and remove the Inlet air duct assembly
2.9b ... remove the air cleaner body...
Non-turbo models 2 Disconnect the intermediate air duct from
the
sir cleaner cover and the resonance box. 3 Disconnect the inlet duct from the resonance box and unbolt It from the front of
the
engine compartment. 4 Unscrew tho mounting nuts and remove the resonance box. Note the location of the special spacers. 6 If necessary unbolt and remove the support Brackets for the resonance box. Turbo models 6 Disconnect the intermediate air duct from the air cleaner cover and front Inlet air duct assembly. 7 Unbolt and remove the inlet oir duct tssembty (see illustrations). 6 Disconnect the air ducts from between the
air
cleaner and turbocharger. and between the turbocharger and Inlet manifold.
2.9c ... and spacers
9 Unscrew the mounting nuts and remove the air cleaner body. Note the location of the special spacers (see illustrations).
Refitting 10 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure.
3 Accelerator cable -removal, refitting and adjustment
Removal 1 Remove the air inlet ducting as described in Section 2. 2 Working In Ihe engine compartment, remove the cylindrical spring clip, and release the Inner cable from the lever (see illustration).
2.9a Unscrew the mounting nuts...
3 Pull the outer cable from the grommet in the fuel injection pump bracket (see illustration). 4 Release the cable from the remaining clips and brackets in the engine compartment, noting Its routing. 5 Working under the Instrument panel inside the vehicle, unhook the cable from the fork at the top of the pedal arm. 6 Release the bulkhead grommet and withdraw the accelerator cable from inside the engine compartment.
Refitting 7 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the cable is routed as noted before removal, and on completion, adjust the cable as follows.
Adjustment 8 Remove the spring clip from the accel-erator outer cable (see illustration). Ensuring that the control lever Is against its stop, gently pull the cable out of Its grommet until all Iree play is removed from the inner cable. 9 With the cable held In this position, refit the spring clip to the last exposed outer cable groove in front of the rubber grommet and washer. When the clip is refitted and the outer cable is released, there should be only a small amount of free play in the inner cable. 10 Have an assistant depress the accelerator pedal, and check that the control lever opens lulty and returns smoothly to its stop.
4C
32 Remove the spring clip and release the inner cable 3.3 Removing the outer cable 3.8 Removing the spring clip Irom the accelerator outer cable
Fuel system - diesel models 4C*3
8.5 Dial gauge (1), mounting bracket (2) and setting rod (3) In position on the injection pump (Lucas)
so that Its tip Is In contact with the bracket linkage (see Illustration). Position the dial gauge so that its plunger is at the mid-point of its travel and zero the gauge. 6 Rotate the crankshaft slowly in the correct direction of rotation (clockwise) until the crankshaft is positioned at TDC on No 1 piston with ell the sprocket timing marks aligned. 7 Check the reading on the dial gauge which should correspond to the value marked on the pump (there is a tolerance of * 0.04 mm). The timing value may be marked on a plastic disc attached to the front of the pump, or alternatively on a tag attached to Ihe pump control lever (see illustrations). 8 If adjustment is necessary, slacken the front pump mounting nuts/bolt and the raar mounting bolt, then slowly rotate tne pump body until the point is found where the specified reading is obtained on the dial gauge (access to the lower front bolt is gained through the hole in the injection pump sprocket). When the pump Is correctly positioned, tighten both its front mounting nuta/bolt and the rear bolt to their specified torque settings. 9 Withdraw the timing probe slightly, so that it
positioned clear of the pump rotor dowel. Rotato the crankshaft ihrough one and three quarter rotations in the normal direction of rotation. 10 Slide the timing probe back Into position ensuring that it Is correctly seated against the guide sealing washer surface, not (he upper Hp, then zero the dial gauge. 11 Rotate the crankshaft slowly in the correct direction ol rotation to the TDC position and recheck the timing measurement 12 If adjustment Is necessary, slacken the pump mounting nuts and bolt and repeat the operations in paragraphs 6 to 11. 13 When the pump timing is correctly set. remove the dial gauge and mounting bracket and withdraw the timing probe. 14 Refit the screw and sealing washer to the guide and tighten it securely.
8.7a Pump timing value (x) marked on plastic diso (Lucas)
15 If the procedure is being carried out as part of the pump refilling sequence, proceed as described in Section 5. 16 If the procedure is being carried out with the pump fitted to the engine, refit the injector pipes tightening their union nuts to the specified torque setting. Reconnect the battery and refit the air inlet ducting. 17 Start the engine, and check for any leakage at the fuel unions. To enable the engine to start it may be necessary to loosen tho injector union nuts while turning the engine on the starter motor in order to purge trapped air. 18 Check and If necessary adjust the Idle speed as described In Chapter 1B.
9 Fuel Injectors -testing, removal and refitting Sk ^
A
Warning: Exercise extreme caution when working on the fuel injectors. Never expose the hands or any part of the body to Injector spray, as the high working pressure can cause the fuel to pen ot rate the skin, with possibly fatal results. You are strongly advised to have any work which involves testing the injectors under pressure carried out by a dealer or fuel Injection specie list.
Testing 1 Injectors do deteriorate with prolonged uso, and it is reasonable to expect them to need reconditioning or renewal after 60 000 miles
8.7b Pump timing values marked on label (1) and tag (2) (Lucas)
(100 000 km) or so. Accurate testing, overhaul and calibration of the Injectors must be left to a specialist. A defective injector which Is causing knocking or smoking can be located without dismantling as follows. 2 Run the engine at a fast idle. Slacken each Injector union In turn, placing rag around the union to catch spilt fuel, and being careful not to exposa the skin to any spray. When tho union on the defective Injector is slackened, the knocking or smoking will stop.
Removal 3 Remove ihe air Inlet ducting from tho front part of the onglne. 4 Carefully clean around the Injectors and injector pipe union nuts. 5 Pull the leak-off pipes from the injectors (see illustration). 6 Unscrow the union nuts securing Ihe injector pipes to the fuel Injection pump. Counterhold the unions on the pump when unscrewing the nuts. Cover open unions lo keep dirt out, using small plastic bags, or fingers cut from discarded (but clean!) rubber gloves. 7 Unscrew the union nuts and disconnect the pipes from the ln|ectors, If necessary, the Injector pipes may be completely removed-Note carefully the locations of the pipe clamps, for use when refitting. Cover tho onds ot (he injectors, to prevent dirt ingress. 8 Unscrew the injectors using a deep socket or box spanner, and remove Ihem from the cylinder head (see Illustration). 9 Recover the tire seal washers from the cy-linder head and discard them (see illustration).
9.5 Disconnecting the Injector leak-off pipes 9.8 Removing an injector
7A»1
Chapter 7 Part A:
Manual transmission
Contents
Gearchange lever and linkage - removal and refitting 2 General information 1 Manual transmission oil level check See Chapter 1A or 18 Manual transmission oil renewal See Chapter 1A or 1B
Manual transmission overhaul • general information 4 Manual transmission • removal and refitting 3 Reversing light switch • testing, removal and refitting 5
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable
for Faiity
easy,
suitable FaMycffficult, ^ Difficult,
sutable fa-
Verycfifficutt, ^
novice with
little
1
for beginner with suitable
for
competent experienced DIY * * < siitable
for
expert
DIY
jR or professional ^ experience 1
some
experience DIYmechanic ^ mechanic * * < siitable
for
expert
DIY
jR or professional ^
Specifications
General Type
Designation: 1108 cc petrol engine 1242 cc petrol engine Non-turbo diesel engine Turbo diesel engine
Torque wrench settings Gear lever support nut Gear lever to mounting Reverse gear inhibitor cable to transmission Reversing light switch Selector rod-to-gear lever nut Speedometer drive Transmission-to-engine bolt/nut
Transverse mounted, front wheel drive layout with integral transaxle differential/final drive. 5 or 6 forward speeds, 1 reverse speed
C.S14.5.10 (5-speed) or C.514.6.10 (6-speed) C.514.5.1Q/13 (5-speed) C.514.5.13 (5-speed) C.510.5.17 (5-speed)
Nm Ibftl 6 4 49 36 30 22 40 30 17 13 12 9 es 63
1 Genera) Information
The transmission is contained In a cast-aluminium alloy casing bolted to the engine's left-hand end, and consists of the gearbox end final drive differential, Drive Is transmitted from the crankshaft via the clutch to the Input shaft, which has a spiined extension to accept the clutch friction
plate, and rotates in roller bearings at its right-hand end and ball bearings at its left-hand end (on 6-speed versions the left-hand extension rotates In a roller bearing). From the input shaft, drive is transmitted to tho output shaft, which rotates In roller bearings at Its right-hand end. and ball bearings at its left* hand end (on 6-speed versions the left-hand extension rotates in ball bearings). From the output shaft, the drive is transmitted to the differential crownwheel, which rotates with the differential case and gears in taper roller bearings, thus driving the sun gears and
driveshafts. The rotation of the differential gears on their shaft allows the inner roadwheel to rotate at a slower speed than the outer roadwheel when the car is cornering. The Input and output shaftB are arranged side by side, parallel to the crankshaft and driveshafts, so that their gear pinion teeth are In constant mesh. In the neutral position, the relevant input shaft and output shaft gear pinions rotate freely, so that drive cannot be transmitted to the output shaft and crownwheel.
7A*2 Manual transmission
Gear selection is via a floor-mounted lever and selector rod mechanism (seo Illustration). The selector rod causes the appropriate selector fork to move its respective synchro-sleeve along the shaft, to lock the gear to the synchro-hub. Since the synchro-hubs are splined to the Input and output shafts, this locks the gear to the shaft, so that drive can be transmitted. To ensure that gear-changing can be made quickly and quietly, a synchro-mesh system Is fitted to all forward gears,
2 Gearchange lever and linkage -
removal and refitting ^
Removal 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support It securely on axle stands {see Jacking and veh/cte support). 2 Remove the exhaust system with reference to Chapter 4D.
3 Unbolt the exhaust heatshield and remove It from under the vehicle. 4 Disconnect the gearchange cable and rod from the transmission and from the body. Also disconnect the reverse inhibitor cable. 5 Unscrew the single screw and remove the centre console from inside the vehicle. 6 Unscrew the front mounting securing the gearchange lower cover to the body. 7 Under Ihe vehicle unscrew the lower cover mounting bolts, then lower Ihe assembly and remove from under the vehlole. 8 The gearchange lever may be removed by disconnecting the cables and removing the pivot bolt. Note the location of the spacers and washers to ensure correct reassembly. If necessary the bushes may be renewed by unscrewing the mounting nuts. 9 Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling but apply a little multi-purpose grease to the bearing surfaces.
Refitting 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten all nuts and bolts securely.
3 Manual transmission - & removal and refitting § S
Petrol models
Removal 1 Select a solid, level surlace to park the vehicle upon. Give yourself enough space to move around it easily. Apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels. 2 Disconnect the wiring connectors from (he anti-theft alarm located next to the battery, then unbolt and remove the alarm. 3 Remove the battery and mounting tray as described in Chapter 5A. 4 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing light switch on the front of the transmission. 5 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the earth cable from its stud. 6 On models with a cable operated clutch,
1.4 Gearchange lever and linkage 1 Gear lever sliding part 3 Gear selector control rod 5 Gear selector link rod 2 Reverse gear inhibition 4 Gear engagement control 6 Gear selector control rod cable cable 7 Reverse gear inhibition device
Manual transmission 7A*3
3,8 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission unscrew the locknut and adjusting nut from the end of the clutch cable and disconnect the cable from the transmission. Recover the damper block. On models with a hydraulically operated clutch, unscrew the mounting bolts, release the slave cylinder pushrod from the re&ase arm on the transmission, then position the cylinder to one side.
7 Unscrew and remove the reverse gear Inhibiting device from the transmission. Tie the cable to one side out of the way. 8 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission (see illustration). 9 Pull out the clip then disconnect the gear engagement cable from the control lever and release the cable from the mounting bracket (see illustrations). 10 Unscrew and remove the two upper transmisslon-to-englne mounting bolts. Unscrew the single bolt securing the starter motor to the transmission. 11 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting with reference to Chapter 4A or 4B. This Is necessary In order to fit the engine hoist 12 On 5-speed transmissions, trace the wiring back from the electronic speedometer sensor and disconnect the connector located on the left-hand side of the engine (see illustration). 13 On 6-speed transmissions, unscrew the knurled nut and disconnect the speedometer cable from the top of the final drive housing. 14 Support the weight of the engine using a hoist attached to the engine lifting eyes, or alternatively use a trolley jack and block of wood beneath Ihe engine. 15 Unscrew the Lambda/oxygen sensor from the exhaust downpipe and position It In a safe place to prevent damage. 16 Unscrew the nuts securing the downpipe to the exhaust manifold, then lower It and support on an axle stand. Recover the gasket. 17 Unbolt the support bracket from the engine and transmission. Recover the spacer plate. 18 Unbolt and remove the transmission lower cover, 19 Unscrew the remaining starter motor mounting bolts and support tho starter motor to one side. 20 Loosen and remove the clips securing the left- and right-hand driveshaft gaiters to the transmission output shafts.
3.9a Remove the clip to release the gear engagement cable 21 Unscrew and remove the boils securing the left-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then separate the components and support the swivel hub on an axle stand. 22 Move the swivel hub assembly outwards and disconnect the inner end of the dnveshaft from the transmission output shaft. Support the shaft away from the transmission to prevent damage to the garters. 23 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the botts securing the rear engine mounting to the underbody then unscrew the bolts securing the mounting to the transmission and withdraw the mounting assembly from under the vehicle. 24 Unscrew the bolts securing the left-hand engine/transmission mounting to Ihe body then unscrew the bolts from the transmission and remove the mounting. 25 Support the woight of the transmission on a trolley jack then unscrew the remaining nut and bolt from the belihousing and pull the transmission away from the engine. Lower it and remove from under the vehicle. A Warning: Support the trans-mission to ensure that it remains steady on the jack head. Keep the transmission levet until the Input shaft Is fully withdrawn from the clutch friction plate. Refitting
26 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but note the following points. a) Apply a smear of high-melting-point grease to the clutch friction plate splines; take care to avoid contaminating the friction surfaces.
3.12 Electronic speedometer sensor fitted to 5-speed transmissions
3.9b Removing the gear engagement cable from the mounting bracket b) Tighten all bolts to Ihe specified torque. c) Fit new clips to secure the driveshaft gaiters to the transmission output shafts. d) Adjust the clutch cable (where applicable) as described In Chapter 6.
Diesel models
Removal 27 Seloct a solid, level surface to park the vehicle upon. Give yourself enough space to move around it easily. Apply the handbrake then jack up the front of tho vehicle and support on axlo stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels. 28 Unbolt the relay support then remove the batlery and mounting tray as described in Chapter 5A. 29 On models with a cable operated clutch, unscrew the locknut and adjusting nut from the end of the clutch cable and disconnect the cable from the transmission. Recover the damper block. On models with a hydraulically operated clutch, unscrew the mounting botts. release the slave cylinder pushrod from the release arm on the transmission, then position the cylinder to one side, 30 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission. 31 Disconnect the gear engagement cable from the control lever then slide out the clip and release the cable from the mounting bracket. 32 Unbolt the electronic rev counter sensor from the upper rear of the belihousing and position it to one side (see illustration).
3.32 Electronic rev counter sensor located in the upper rear of the belihousing
7B*2 Automatic transmission
disconnected. As the magnetic field increases, the powder sticks together, and the coupling between Ihe elements becomes Increasingly rigid. 7 Selection of reverse, neutral and forward gears is by the movement of a sliding sleeve on a hub keyed to the drive pulley shaft. In forward gear, the sleeve engages with the gear on the end of the input shaft, which is then locked to the drive pulley shaft. When reverse is selected, the sleeve engages with reverse driven gear, which is in constant mesh with an idler gear driven by transfer gears from the input shaft gear. In neutral, the sleeve Is in an intermediate position, and the
two shafts are not connected. 8 Tho drive pulley and driven pulley both consist of fixed and moving halves. The movement of ihe drive pulley halves is controlled hydraulically, while the driven pulley halves move under the influence of a spring and the tension exerted by the drivebeit. As the drive pulley opens, the driven pulley closes, and vice-versa. In this way, the transmission ratio between the two pulleys can be varied. The ratios are continuously variable between preset limits; the difference between the lowest and highest ratios available is approximately 5:1. 9 Hydraulic pressure is generated by a gear-
type pump Inside the transmission. The punp driveshaft runs inside the Input and drive pulley shafts, and Is splined to the centred the engine flywheel. This means that hydreulc pressure is only generated when the engine is running, which is why a car with this type ot transmission cannot be push- or tow-started 10 Application of hydrautic pressure to the pulley halves is via a control unit, which receives information on accelerator pedal position, transmission selector lever position, transmission ratio currently in use, and drive pulley speed. From this information, the control unit determines whether, and in which direction, lo change the pulley ratios.
1.1 a Cutaway view of the ECVT (electronic continuously variable transmission) 7 Electromagnetic dutch 3 Drive pulley 5 Metal drivebeit 7 Hydraulic controt unit 2 Gear selector sleeve A Dnven pulley 6 Final drive reduction gears
Automatic transmission 7B*3
11 When reverse gear Is selected, the control unit keeps the transmission In tow ratio, if this were not the case, it would, In theory, be possible to drive as fast In reverse as in forward gear. 12 An electronic control unit supplies the current to energise the clutch. The control unit receives signals concerning engine speed, road speed, accelerator pedal position, and gear selector position, Sensors include the following. a) Engine rpm sensor (from the Injection/ignition control unit) b) Accelerator pedal switch
c) Throttle valve position sensor d) Selector lever position sensor e) Vehicle speed sensor f) Coolant temperature sensor g) Air conditioning sensor h) Brake switch I) Torque signal
13 The final drive/differential unit Is conventional. Drive from the driven pulley is transmitted to the differential by an Intermediate reduction gear. 14 The ECVT incorporates a warning light which illuminates when a fault occurs.
Precautions 1$ Observe the following precautions to avoid damage to the automatic transmission: a) Do not attempt to start the engine by pushing or towing the car. b) If the car has to be towed for recovery, the distance must not exceed 12 miles (20
km),
and the speed must not exceed
19
mph
(30 kph).
If these conditions cannot be met, or If transmission damage is suspected, only tow the car with the front wheels clear of the ground. c) Only engage P or R when the vehicle is stationary.
1.1b Electromagnetic f Coil 2 Signal from vehicle speed sensor 3 Transmission 4 Electromagnetic powder 5 Drive shaft (driven by crankshaft) $ Transmission input shaft 7 Electromagnetic clutch housing 8 ECVT control unit
clutch control system 9 Accelerator pedal micro switch 10 Throttle
vafve
opening position potentiometer 11 Multifunction switch 12 Ignition switch
13
Air conditioning
signal
14 Engine PPM
signal
15 Accelerator pedal 16 Coolant temperature signal 17 Injection/ignition control unit 18 8attery
1.1c Hydraulic control system 3 Injection/ignition control unit 4 Air conditioner sensor
signal
6 Coolant temperature signal 7 Clutch signal 8 Engine RPM
signal
9 ECVT warning light 10 Selector lever position 11 Accelerator
pedal
switch/throttle
valve
potentiometer/torque signal 12 Brake switch 13
ECVT
control unit 14 Signal from vehicle speed sensor
15
Accelerator pedal position switch
16 Pulley ratio 17 Input shaft RPM 18 Primary oil pressure
19
Primary pulley 20 Electromagnetic clutch 21 Pressure regulating solenoid valve 22 Oil pressure control valve 23 Secondary oil pressure 24 Slip ring 25 Drive from engine 26 Oil pump 27 Vehicle speed sensor 28 Secondary pulley 29 Belt and pulley 30 Drive to drlveshafts
7B*6 Automatic transmission
Gear selector cable -adjustment
1 Remove the battery and tray as described In Chapter 5A for access to the transmission. 2 Disconnect the selector cable from the lever on Ihe transmission. 3 Move the selector fever inside the vehicle to the N (Neutral) position, then move the lever on the transmission to Its central (Neutral) position. Locate the cable end over the lever. If the cable end fitting does not line up exactly with the hole In Ihe lever, loosen the adjustment nut and reposition the end fitting. 4 With the adjustment correct reconnect tha cable to the lever, then move the selector lever to the P (Park) position. Check that the lever on the transmission has also moved to the P position. 6 Refit the battery and tray as described in Chapter 5A. 6 Road test the vehicle, and check for correct operation in all selector lever positions.
9 Gear selector cable -removal and refitting at
7 Inside the vehicle disconnect the selector cable from the bottom of the selector lever (hen remove it from the support bracket, a Withdraw the cable into the engine compartment, and remove it.
Refitting 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but adjust the cable as described in Section 8. 10 Check that It is only possible to start the engine in positions P and N. Reposition the selector lever switch If necessary. 11 Road test the vehicle, and check for correct operation In ell selector lever positions.
10 Transmission oil pump - & mnvtiifll rAtiMlitA removal a/id refitting
Removal 1 Using an Allen key. unscrew the screw and remove the selector lever knob from the lever. 2 Remove the oddment tray and the ashtray. 3 Remove the screws and withdraw the centre console and selector mechanism cover. 4 Unscrew the mounting screws, slightly lift the centre console, then disconnect the wiring and remove the console, 5 Remove the battery and tray as described in Chapter 5A for access to the transmission, 6 Disconnect the selector cable from the lever on the transmission.
Removal 1 Apply the handbrake, then lack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the left-hand wheel. 2 Unscrew the screws and remove the wheel arch liner. 3 Working through the left-hand wheel arch, remove Ihe three bolts which secure the oil pump. 4 Attach a slide hammer to the oil pump, using the two tapped holes provided. Withdraw the pump using the slide hammer. Be prepared for some oil spillage. Recover the gasket end O-ring (see illustrations). 5 If the pump is defective, it must be renewed; no spares are available.
Refitting 6 Before refitting Ihe oil pump, clean Ihe mating surfaces of the transmission and pump. 7 Rt the oil pump, U9ing a new gasket and a new O-ring. Secure the pump with the three bolts.
8 Refit the wheel arch liner, then refit tto wheel and lower the vehicle to the ground. 9 Check the transmission fluid level » described earlier in this Section, and top-upif necessary.
11 Accelerator pedal & mfcro-Bwftcb(es) -checking
and
adjustment ^
1 Correct adjustment of the micro-awtlch which senses the accelerator pedal position s essential for correct operation of the clutch.
A
quick check can be made by listening for the switch clicking as the accelerator a depressed. For an accurate check, proceed as follows. 2 Disconnect Ihe mlcroswitch wiring connector (nside the vehicle. Connect a continuity tester across the terminals of the switch, located at the top of (he pedal box (see Illustration}. 3 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting as described in Chapter 4A. 4 With the accelerator pedal releassd, th« switch must be closed (zero resistance). Slowty depress the pedal, and check that the switch opens when the throttle valve on the throttle housing is 30° open. This will occur when the pedal has travelled between 3 and 7 mm. Adjust the switch position if necessary. 5 If the switch is permanently open or permanently closed, and adjustment makes no difference, renew ft. 6 Remake the original wiring connections on completion,
12 Automatic transmission -overhaul
Apart from the operations described earlier in this Section, transmission overhaul should be entrusted to a Rat dealer or transmission specialist.
10.4a Using a slide hammer to remove the oil pump from the transmission 10.4b Automatic transmission oil pump O-dng (1), housing (2) and gasket (3) 11.2 Continuity tester connected ecross the accelerator pedal micro-switch