
What’s the worst  time  for this?  “Wet  ice.”  Very  cold snow  or  ice can  be 
slick and  hard  to drive  on. 
But wet  ice  can  be  even  more  trouble because it 
may offer the least traction  of all.  You  can  get  “wet ice” when  it’s  about 
freezing 
(32°F; 0°C) and  freezing  rain begins  to fall. Trv to avoid driving 
on  wet  ice until  salt and  sand crews can  get there. 
Whatever  the condition 
- smooth ice, packed, blowing  ,or loose  snow - 
drive with caution. 
Accelerate  gently. Try  not  to  break  the fragile traction. If you accelerate  too 
fast,  the  drive  wheels  will spin and polish  the  surface  under the tires even 
more. 
Your  anti-lock  brakes improve your ability 
to make a hard  stop on a 
slippery road.  Even  though you have  an  anti-lock  braking system, you’ll 
want  to begin stopping sooner  than  you  would  on  dry pavement. See 
“Anti-lock”  in  the Index. 
Allow greater following  distance on  any slippery road. 
Watch for slippery spots. The  road  might  be fine until you hit a  spot 
that’s covered  with  ice.  On  an  otherwise clear road, ice patches  may 
appear 
in shaded  areas where  the sun  can’t reach:  around clumps of 
trees, behind  buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface  of a 
curve 
or an  overpass  may remain icy  when the surrounding roads are 
clear.  If  you  see  a patch  of ice ahead  of you,  brake  before you are on it. 
Try  not  to  brake  while you’re actually  on the  ice,  and  avoid sudden 
steering maneuvers. 
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After you’ve  loaded  your  trailer,  weigh  the  trailer and then the tongue, 
separately,  to 
see if  the  weights  are proper.  If  they  aren’t, you may  be able to 
get  them  right  simply by moving some items around  in  the  trailer. 
Total Weight on Your  Vehicle’s  Tires 
Be sure your vehicle’s  tires  are inflated to the  limit  for cold  tires.  You’ll  find 
these numbers 
on the  Certification  label  at  the  rear  edge of the  driver’s  door 
or see “Tire  Loading”  in the  Index.  Then be sure  you don’t  go over  the 
GVW  limit for your  vehicle. 
Hitches 
It’s important to have  the correct  hitch equipment. Crosswinds,  large trucKs 
going by,  and  rough  roads  are a few reasons why  you’ll  need  the  right  hitch. 
Here are some  rules 
to follow: 
If you use a step  bumper  hitch,  and  your trailer tongue has a V-shaped 
foot,  your bumper  could be damaged 
in sharp  turns.  Check the distance 
from  the front  edge of 
the foot to the  middle  of  the  hitch  ball  socket. If 
the distance is less  than 12 inches,  take  the  foot off the trailer  tongue. 
If you’ll be  pulling  a trailer with a utility  model  that,  when  loaded, will 
weigh  more than 
3,000 pounds (1 361 kg); or with  a wagon  model  that, 
when  loaded,  will  weigh  more than 
4000 pounds (1 800 kg), be sure to 
use 
a properly  mounted,  weight-distributing  hitch  and sway control of 
the proper size.  This equipment is very important  for proper  vehicle 
loading  and  good  handling when  you’re  driving. 
0 Will  you have to make  any holes in the  body  of your vehicle  when  you 
install  a trailer hitch?  If 
you do, then be sure to  seal  the  holes later 
when 
you remove  the hitch.  If you  don’t  seal  them, deadly carbon 
monoxide 
(CO) from your exhaust  can  get into your vehicle  (see 
“Carbon  Monoxide” 
in the Index).  Dirt  and  water  can, too. 
Safety  Chains 
You should always  attach chains  between  your vehicle  and your  trailer. 
Cross  the safety  chains  under 
the tongue  of  the  trailer so that  the  tongue  will 
not drop to the road if it becomes  separated from  the hitch. Instructions 
about  safety  chains  may  be  provided  by 
the hitch manufacturer  or by  the 
trailer  manufacturer.  Follow  the  manufacturer’s  recommendation for 
attaching  safety chains. Always leave 
just enough  slack so you can turn  with 
your rig.  And, never  allow  safety  chains to drag  on  the  ground. 
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Trailer  Brakes 
If your trailer  weighs  more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg) loaded,  then it needs 
its  own brakes 
- and  they  must  be adequate.  Be sure to read  and follow the 
instructions  for the  trailer  brakes 
so you’ll  be able to  install, adjust and 
maintain  them  properly. 
Your  trailer  brake  system  can  tap into  your  vehicle’s  hydraulic  brake system, 
but  consider the following: 
Will  the  trailer brake  system  use  more than 0.02 cubic  inch (0.3 cc) of 
fluid from  your  vehicle’s  master  cylinder? If it will,  don’t  tap  into  your 
vehicle’s  brake  system.  Both  braking  systems 
won’t  work well, and you 
could even lose your  brakes  altogether. 
not,  the  trailer brake  system  must  not  be used  with  your  vehicle. 
If  everything checks 
out this  far,  make the brake  tap  at the port on the 
master  cylinder  that  sends  the  fluid  to the  rear  brakes.  But  don’t  use  copper 
tubing  for this.  if  you  do, it will  bend  and  finally  break 
off. Use  steel  brake 
tubing. 
Will  the  trailer brake parts take 3,000 psi (20  650 kPa)  of  pressure?  If 
Driving with a Trailer 
Towing a trailer  requires  a certain  amount of experience.  Before  setting  out 
for  the  open  road, 
you’ll want  to get to know  your  rig.  Acquaint  yourself 
with  the feel 
of handling  and braking  with  the added weight  of  the  trailer. 
And always  keep 
in mind  that  the  vehicle you are driving is now  a good 
deal longer  and  not  nearly so responsive as your  vehicle  is  by itself. 
Before 
you start,  check  the  trailer  hitch  and  platform,  safety  chains, 
electrical  connector,  lights,  tires  and mirror  adjustment.  If the  trailer  has 
electric  brakes, start your  vehicle  and  trailer  moving  and  then  apply  the 
trailer  brake controller  by hand  to be  sure the  brakes are working.  This lets 
you  check your  electrical  connection  at  the  same time. 
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9. Attach the cable  at least 18 inches (45 cm) away  from the dead  battery, 
but  not  near  engine parts  that  move.  The electrical  connection 
is just as 
good  there,  but  the  chance of sparks getting back to the  battery is much 
less. 
10. Now  start  the vehicle  with  the good battery  and run the engine for 
awhile. 
1 1. Try  to start  the vehicle  with the dead battery. 
If  it won't  start  after a few tries,  it probably  needs  service. 
Remove  Cables in this Order 
1. Heavy  Metal 
Engine  Part 
2. Good  Battery (-) 
3. Good  Battery (+) 
4. Dead  Battery (+) 
12. Remove  the cables in reverse  order to  prevent  electrical shorting. 
Take  care that  they don't  touch  each other 
or any other  metal. 
Towing Your Vehicle 
Try to have your GM dealer or a professional  towing service  tow your 
vehicle. They can provide  the right equipment  and  know  how 
to tow it 
without damage. 
If  your  vehicle has  been changed  since 
it was  factory-new,  by adding  such 
things  like fog lamps, aero  skirting, or special  tires  and  wheels,  these things 
could 
be damaged during towing. 
Before 
you do  anything,  turn on the hazard  warning flashers. 
When  you  call, 
tell the  towing  service: 
That your vehicle  has  rear-wheel  drive, or that  it has the  four-wheel 
drive  option. 
The make, model,  and  year of your vehicle. 
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Engine Fan Noise 
Your vehicle  has a  clutched  engine  cooling fan. When  the  clutch is engaged, 
the  fan  spins faster  to provide  more air to cool 
the engine.  In  most  every day 
driving  conditions  the fan 
is spinning slower and clutch  is  not fully engaged. 
This  improves 
fuel economy  and reduces fan  noise. Under  heavy vehicle 
loading,  trailer towing  and/or high outside  temperatures, the  fan speed 
increases  as the clutch  more fully engages. 
So you  may  hear an increase in 
fan noise.  This is  normal  and should  not  be mistaken  as the  transmission 
slipping  or making extra shifts. 
It is  merely  the cooling  system functioning 
properly.  The 
fan will slow  down  when  additional cooling  is  not required 
and  the clutch partially disengages. 
You may  also hear  this  fan noise when you start the  engine. It will  go away 
as  the  fan  clutch  partially disengages. 
If a Tire Goes Flat 
It’s unusual for  a tire  to  “blow  out” while  you’re driving, especially  if  you 
maintain your tires  properly. If air goes out  of a tire,  it’s  much  more  likely to 
leak  out  slowly. But if  you  should  ever have 
a “blowout,”  here are a few  tips 
about  what  to  expect and  what 
to do: 
If a front  tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag  that pulls the vehicle 
toward that  side.  Take  your  foot off the accelerator  pedal  and grip the 
steering  wheel  firmly.  Steer to  maintain  lane position,  then gently  brake  to  a 
stop  well  out of the  traffic  lane. 
A rear blowout, particularly  on a  curve,  acts much  like a skid and  may 
require  the same correction  you’d  use  in a skid.  In  any  rear blowout, remove 
your  foot  from  the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle  under control 
by 
steering  the way  you  want  the vehicle  to  go. It may  be  very  bumpy  and 
noisy,  but you  can  still steer.  Gently brake  to a  stop,  well  off  the road  if 
possible. 
If  a 
tire goes flat, the next section shows how to use your jacking  equipment 
to  change  a  flat  tire safely. 
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Tire  Storage  -Utility  Model 
If you  have a utility  model,  use these locations. 
1.  Carrier 
3. Adapter 
4. Spare  Tire 
5. Nut 
2.  J-Bolt 
6. Cover 
7. Pins 
9. Use  Upper 
Hole and  Pin  for 
LT265 Tire or Lower Hole  and  Pin 
For  LT225/245  Tires 
8. J-Bolt 
Put  the  cover back  on  the  tire  if your  vehicle  has  one. 
Put  the tire  into  the  vehicle,  over the  bolt.  Slide the adapter onto the  bolt  in 
the  proper  location  for your  model,  and  put  the wing 
nut on. Turn  the  wing 
nut to the right  until  the  adapter is  tight against the wheel,  then  close the 
cover. 
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If You’re  Stuck: In Sand,  Mud,  Ice or Snow 
What  you  don’t  want  to do when  your vehicle is stuck is  to  spin  your 
wheels.  The method  known 
as “rocking” can help you get out when  you’re 
stuck,  but  you  must  use  caution. 
NOTICE: 
Spinning  your  wheels  can  destroy  parts of your  vehicle as well as 
the  tires. If you  spin  the  wheels  too  fast  while  shifting  your 
transmission  back  and  forth,  you  can  destroy 
your transmission. 
Rocking  your  vehicle  to  get  it  out: 
First,  turn  your  steering wheel  left  and  right.  That  will  clear the  area  around 
your  front  wheels.  Then shift back  and  forth between 
“R” (Reverse)  and a 
forward  gear  (or with  a manual  transmission,  between First or Second gear 
and  Reverse),  spinning the wheels 
as little  as possible. Release  the 
accelerator  pedal  while  you  shift, and press lightly  on the accelerator  pedal 
when the transmission is in gear. If that  doesn’t  get you  out after  a few tries, 
you  may  need to  be  towed  out. Or, 
you can  use  your  recovery hooks, if your 
vehicle has  them. 
If you do need  to  be  towed  out, see “Towing Your 
Vehicle”  in  the  Index. 
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...................... 
................ 
Brake  Master  Cylinder ................................... 6-43 
Replacing Brake System Parts .............................. 6-46 
Other Maintenance Items .................................... 646 
Lubrication ............. ..... 648 
Battery ................ ....... 6-49 
Bulb Replacement ......................................... 6-50 
Fuses  and Circuit Breakers ................................ 6-56 
Exhaust  System ....................................... 6-58 
Loading  Your  Vehicle ...................................... 6-59 
Tires .................................................... 6-62 
Inflation-Tire  Pressure .................................. 6-62 
Tire  Inspection and Rotation ............................... 6-64 
When  It’s  Time  for New  Tires ......................... 6-65 
Buying  New Tires ..................................... 6-66 
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ............................. 6-66 
Wheel  Alignment  and Tire Balance ......................... 6-67 
Wheel Replacement ..................................... 6-68 
Tire  Chains ............................................ 6-69 
Appearancecare .......................................... 6-69 
Cleaning  the Inside  of  Your  Vehicle ......................... 6-70 
Cleaning the Outside  of  Your  Vehicle ..................... 6-74 
Appearance  Care  Materials .................................. 6-77 
Vehicle Identification Number .............................. 6-78 
Service Parts Identification Label ............................. 6-80 
Specification  Charts ...................................... 6-81 
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