Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts - heavy
acceleration followed by heavy braking
- rather than keeping pace with
traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between
hard
stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy
braking. If
you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following
distances, you will eliminate a
lot of unnecessary braking. That means better
braking and longer brake life.
If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake normally but don’t
pump your brakes. If
you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If
your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will
use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take longer
to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push.
Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS)
Your vehicle has an advanced electronic braking system that can help you
keep it under control. When you start your vehicle and begin to drive away,
you may hear
a momentary motor or clicking noise. This is the ABS system
testing
itself.
Here’s how anti-lock works. Let’s say the road is wet. You’re driving safely.
Suddenly
an animal jumps out in front of you.
You slam
on the brakes. Here’s what happens with ABS.
A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is
about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each
front wheel and at the rear wheels. The anti-lock system can change the
brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer
is programmed to
make the most of available tire and road conditions. You can steer around
the obstacle while braking hard.
4-6
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Stalling on an lncline
If your vehicle stalls when you’re crossing an incline, be sure you (and your
passengers) get
out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to
open. If
you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over,
you’ll be right in its path.
If
you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take
if it does roll over.
Driving In Mud, Sand, Snow, Or lce
When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels won’t get good traction.
You can’t accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you’ll need
longer braking distances.
It’s best
to use a low gear when you’re in mud - the deeper the mud, the
lower
the gear. In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving
so you don’t get stuck.
When
you drive on sand, you’ll sense a change in wheel traction. But it will
depend upon how loosely packed
the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on
beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has an
effect
on steering, accelerating, and braking. You may want to reduce the air
pressure in your tires slightly when driving on sand. This
will improve
traction.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires haven’t much
tread or
if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water
is standing on the road.
If you can see reflections from trees, telephone
poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s
surface, there
could be hydroplaning.
Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and
fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it
is
raining.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
Turn on your low-beam headlights - not just your parking lights - to
help make you more visible to others.
Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be
especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more
clear room ahead, and be prepared
to have your view restricted by road
spray.
Have good tires with proper tread depth. (See “Tires” in the Index.)
City Driving
x
One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on
them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay
attention to traffic signals.
Here
are ways to increase your safety in city driving:
Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and
plan your trip into an unknown part
of the city just as you would for a
cross-country trip.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable
following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night.
When you
want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in
advance. If you miss your
exit do not, under any circumstances, stop and
back up. Drive on to the
next exit.
The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.
The exit speed is usually posted.
Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not
to your sense of
motion. After driving for
any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to
think
you are going slower than you actually are.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re
not fresh
- such as after a day’s work - don’t plan to make too many
miles
that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you
can easily drive
in.
Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained,
it’s ready to
go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of
course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts
in GM dealerships
all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need
it.
Here are some things you can check before a trip:
Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean
inside and outside?
Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels?
Lights: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?
Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread
good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated
to the
recommended pressure?
Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route?
Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?
Should
you delay your trip
a short time to avoid a major storm system?
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg) loaded, then it needs
its own brakes
- and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the
instructions for the trailer brakes
so you’ll be able to install, adjust and
maintain them properly.
Your trailer brakes system can tap into vehicle’s hydraulic brake system
except:
Don’t tap into your vehicle’s brake system
if the trailer’s brake system will
use more than 0.02 cubic inch (0.3~~) of fluid from your vehicle’s master
cylinder.
If it does, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even
lose your brakes.
Will the trailer parts take
3,000 psi (20 650 kPa) of pressure? If not, the
trailer brake system must not be used with your vehicle.
If everything checks out this far, then make the brake fluid tap at the
port on
the master cylinder that sends fluid
to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper
tubing for this. If
you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake
tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out
for the open road, you’ll want
to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself
with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle
you are driving is now a good
deal longer and not nearly
so responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform, safety chains,
electrical connector, lights, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the
trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets
you check your electrical connection at the same time.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Loading Your Vehicle
The CertificatiodTire label is found on the driver’s door lock pillar. The
label shows
the size of your original tires and the inflation pressures needed
to obtain the gross weight capacity
of your vehicle. This is called the
GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight
of
the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo.
The Certificationnire label
also tells you the maximum weights for the
front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find
out
the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh
station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure
to spread out your load equally on both sides
of the centerline.
Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating
(GAWR) for either the front or rear axle.
And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.
Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not
change your weight ratings.
Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle
the right way.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Tires
We don’t make tires. Your new vehicle comes with high quality tires made
by a leading tire manufacturer. These tires are warranted by the tire
manufacturers and their warranties are delivered with every new vehicle.
If
your spare tire is a different brand than your road tires, you will have a tire
warranty folder from each of these manufacturers.
Inflation - Tire Pressure
The Certificatioflire label which is on the driver’s door lock pillar, shows
the correct inflation pressures for your tires, when they’re cold. “Cold”
means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no
more than
a mile.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine NOTICE:
Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is
all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air
(underinflation)
you can get:
Too much flexing
Too much heat
Tire overloading
Bad wear
Bad handling
Bad fuel economy.
If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get:
Unusual wear
Bad handling
Rough ride
Needless damage from road hazards.
When to Check
Check your tires once a month or more.
How to Check
Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. Simply looking
at the tires will not tell you the pressure, especially if you have radial tires
- which may look properly inflated even if they’re underinflated.
If your tires have valve caps, be sure to put them back on. They help prevent
leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.
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