1994 BUICK PARK AVENUE key

With the ignition key in the ignition switch, you can turn
the switch to five different positions:
(A) Accessory: This position lets you use things like the
radio and the windshield wipers when the engine is off.
To use, push in the key and turn it toward you. Your
steering wheel will remain locked, just as
it was before
you inserted the key.
(B) Lock: Before you put the key in, your ignition will
be
in the Lock position. This position locks your
ignition, steering wheel and transaxle. It’s
a theft
deterrent feature.
(C) Off: This position lets you turn off the engine but
still turn the steering wheel. It doesn’t lock the steering
wheel like Lock.
Use “Off’ if you must have your car in
motion while the engine is off.
(D) Run: This is the position for driving.
(E) Start: This key position starts your engine.
NOTICE:
If your key seems stuck in “Lock” and you can’t
turn
it, be sure it is all the way in. If it is, then turn
the steering wheel left and right while you
turn
the key hard. But turn the key only with your
hand. Using a tool to force
it could break the key
or the ignition switch. If none of this works, then
your vehicle needs service.
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Retained Accessory Power (Option)
After the ignition is turned off, and before any door is
opened, the following systems will work for
ten
minutes:
0 Power Windows
0 Radio
Optional Astroroof
Starting Your Engine
Move your shift lever to “P” (Park) or “N” (Neutral).
Your engine won’t start
in any other position -- that’s a
safety feature.
To restart when you’re already moving,
use “N” (Neutral) only.
NOTICE:
Don’t try to shift to “P” (Park) if your Buick is
moving. If you do, you could damage the
transaxle. Shift to
“P” (Park) only when your
vehicle
is stopped.
1. Without pushing the accelerator pedal, turn your
ignition key to “Start.” When the engine starts, let go
of the key. The idle speed will go down as your
engine gets warm.
I NOTICE:
Holding your key in “Start” for longer than 15
seconds at a time will cause your battery to be
drained much sooner.
And the excessive heat
can damage your starter motor.
2. If it doesn’t start right away, hold your key in “Start”
for about three to five seconds at a time
until your
engine starts.
Wait about 15 seconds between each
try to help avoid draining your battery.
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3. If your engine still won’t start (or starts but then
stops),
it could be flooded with too much gasoline.
Try pushing your accelerator pedal all the way to the
floor and holding
it there as you hold the key in
“Start” for about three seconds. If the car starts
briefly but then stops again, do the same thing, but
this time keep the pedal down for five or
six seconds.
This clears the extra gasoline from the engine. After
waiting about
15 seconds, repeat the normal starting
procedure.
NOTICE:
Your engine is designed to work with the
electronics in your vehicle.
If you add electrical
parts or accessories, you could change the way
the fuel injection system operates. Before adding
electrical equipment, check with your dealer.
If
you don’t, your engine might not perform
properly.
If you ever have to have your vehicle towed, see
the part of this manual that tells how to
do it
without damaging your vehicle. See “Towing
Your Car”
in the Index.
Driving Through Deep Standing
Water
I NOTICE:
If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or
standing water, water can come
in through your
engine’s air intake and badly damage your
engine.
If you can’t avoid deep puddles or
standing water, drive through them very slowly.
Engine Coolant Heater (Engine Block
Heater) (Canada Only)
In very cold weather, 0°F (- 18 “C) or colder, the engine
coolant heater can help. You’ll get easier starting and
better fuel economy during engine warm-up. Usually,
the coolant heater should be plugged
in a minimum of
four hours prior to starting your vehicle.
To use the coolant heater:
1. Turn off the engine.
2. Open the hood and unwrap the electrical cord.
3. Plug it into a normal, grounded 1 10-volt outlet.
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Ensure the shift lever is fully in T’ (Park) range before
starting the engine. Your Buick has a brake-transaxle
shift interlock. You have
to fully apply your regular
brakes
before you can shift from “P” (Park) when the
ignition key
is in the “Run” position. If you cannot shift
out of “P’ (Park), ease pressure on the shift lever - push the
shift lever all the way into
“P’ (Park) as you
maintain brake application. Then move the shift lever
into the gear
you wish. See “Shifting Out of ‘P’ (Park)”
in this part.
R (Reverse)
Use this gear to back up.
NOTICE:
Shifting to “R” (Reverse) while your vehicle is
moving forward could damage your transaxle.
Shift to “R” only after your vehicle is stopped.
I
To rock your vehicle back and forth to get out of snow,
ice or sand without damaging your transaxle, see
“If
You’re Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow” in the Index.
0 N (Neutral)
In this position, your engine doesn t connect with the
wheels.
To restart when you’re already moving, use
“N” (Neutral) only. Also, use “N” when your vehicle
is being towed.
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Move the lever up as far as it will go.
3. Move the ignition key to “Lock.”
4. Remove the key and take it with you. If you can
walk away from
your vehicle with the ignition key in
your hand, your vehicle is in “P” (Park).
Leaving Your Vehicle With the Engine
Running
If you have to leave your vehicle with the engine
running, be sure your vehicle
is in “P” (Park) and your
parking brake
is firmly set before you leave it. After
you’ve moved the shift lever into the
“P” (Park)
position, hold the regular brake pedal down. Then, see
if
you can move the shift lever away from “P” (Park)
without first pulling
it toward you. If you can, it means
that the
shift lever wasn’t fully locked into “P” (Park).
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Torque Lock
If you are parking on a hill and you don’t shift your
transaxle into
“P’ (Park) properly, the weight of the
vehicle may put too much force on the parking pawl
in
the transaxle. You may find it difficult to pull the shift
lever out of
“P’ (Park). This is called “torque lock.” To
prevent torque lock, set the parking brake and then shift
into “P” (Park) properly before you leave the driver’s
seat.
To find out how, see “Shifting Into ‘P’ (Park)” in
the Index.
When
you are ready to drive, move the shift lever out of
“P” (Park) BEFORE you release the parking brake.
If “torque lock” does occur, you may need
to have
another vehicle push yours
a little uphill to take some of
the pressure from the transaxle,
so you can pull the shift
lever out of “P’ (Park).
Shifting Out of P (Park) 66 99
Your hick has a brake-transaxle shift interlock. You
have
to fully apply your regular brake before you can
shift from
“P’ (Park) when the ignition is in the “Run”
position. See “Automatic Transaxle”
in the Index.
If you cannot shift
out of T“ (Park), ease pressure on
the shift lever
-- push the shift lever all the way into “P”
(Park) as you maintain brake application.
Then move the
shift lever into the gear you want. If
you ever hold the
brake pedal down but still can’t shift out of
“P” (Park),
try this:
1, Turn the key to “Off.” Open and close the driver’s
door
to turn off the Retained Accessory Power
feature,
if you have it.
2. Apply and hold the brake until the end of Step 4.
3. Shift to “N” (Neutral).
4. Start the vehicle and then shift to the drive gear you
5. Have the vehicle fixed as soon as you can.
want.
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Trip Odometer
A trip odometer can tell how far you've driven since
you last set
it back to zero. To reset it, push the button.
R N ''. 7
I I ......A# L
Warning Lights, Gages and
Indicators
This section describes the warning lights and gages that
may be on your vehicle. The pictures
will help you
locate them.
Warning lights and gages can signal that something is
wrong before
it becomes serious enough to cause an
expensive repair or replacement. Paying attention to your warning lights and gages could
also save you
or
others from injury.
Warning lights
go on when there may be or is a problem
with one of your vehicle's functions. As you will see in
the details on
the next few pages, some warning lights
come on briefly when you
turn the ignition key just to
let you know they're working. If you are familiar with
this section, you
should not be alarmed when this
happens.
Gages can indicate when there may be or is a problem
with one
of your vehicle's functions. Often gages and
warning lights work together to let you know when
there's a problem
with your vehicle.
When one
of the warning lights comes on and stays on
when you are driving, or when one of the gages shows
there may be a problem, check the section that tells
you
what to do about it. Please follow the manual's advice.
Waiting to do repairs can be costly
-- and even
dangerous.
So please get to know your warning lights
and gages. They're a big help.
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Low Coolant Warning Light Engine
Oil Pressure Light and Gage
COOLANT
LOW
When this light comes on,
the cooling system is low
on coolant. As a bulb
check, it will come on
when the ignition in the
RUN position and then go
Off.
Wb
OIL
If the coolant level is low, the light will come back on
and
a warning chime will sound. If this happens, see
“Engine Coolant’’ in the Index for proper cooling system
fill.
After the coolant level is returned to its proper level, the
LOW COOLANT light will go off after 20 seconds or
remain off
on the next ignition cycle. This
light
tells you if there could be a problem with your
engine oil pressure.
If your car has the optional gage cluster, you can read
your oil pressure directly from the gage on your
instrument panel.
There are three ways this light can come on briefly,
which
is normal and doesn’t show a problem. They are:
0 The light comes on when you turn your key to
“Run.”
It goes off once you turn the key to “Start.”
That’s just a check
to be sure the light works. If it
doesn’t, be sure
to have it fixed so it willbe there to
warn you if something goes wrong.
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