
Your Driving and the Road
drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to
check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving on Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down long or steep
downgrade.
If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so
much that they would get hot and no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to
45 mph (70
kmlh) or less to reduce the possibility of engine and transmission overheating.
IT you have an automatic transmission, you should use D (or, as you need to,
a lower gear) when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle i\
n
D when towing
a trailer will minimize heat buildup and extend the life of your transmission.
Or, if you have a manual transmission with fifth gear and you are towing a
trailer, it’s better not to use fifth gear. Just drive in fourth gear
(or, as you
need to, a lower gear).
Parking on Hills
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, \
on a hill. If
something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can\
be injured
and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But
if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into P (Park) yet, or into gear
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
for a manual transmission.
3. When the wheel chocks are
in place, release the regular brakes until the
chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and \
then
5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a
6. Release the regular brakes.
shift
to
P (Park), or R (Reverse) for a manual transmission.
drive gear-not in
N (Neutral).
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CAUTION
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is not
fully in
P (Park) with the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can
roll.
If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenl\
y.
You
or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle won’t move,
when you’re on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow.
If you have four-wheel drive and your transfer case is in N (Neutral),
your vehicle will be free to
roll, even if your shift lever is in P (Park).
So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear-not in N (Neutral).
If you are parking on a hill, or if you’re pulling a trailer, also see
“Parking On Hills” in the Index.
When You Are Ready to Leave After Parklng on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:
Start your engine;
Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer To wing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See
the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are esp\
ecially
important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill),
engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system, and brake ad\
justment. Each
of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help \
you find them
quickly.
If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before
you start your trip.
Check periodically
to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.
mailer Wiring Harness
See “Trailer Wiring Harness’’ in the Index.
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Problems on the Road
If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no cool\
ant, your
vehicle can be bac"lI damaged.
T- ! costly rep; 1 would not be Iverec
by your warranty.
If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine:
If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, th\
e problem may
not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too\
hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try t\
his for a minute
or
so:
1. If you have an air conditioner, turn it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and\
open the
3. If you're in a traffic jam, shift to N (Neutral).
window as necessary.
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just
to be safe,
drive slower for about ten minutes.
If the warning doesn't come back on, you
can drive normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehic\
le right away.
If there's still no sign of steam, push the accelerator until the engine speed is
about twice
as fast as normal idle speed. Bring the engine speed back to
normal idle speed after two or three minutes. Now see if the warning stops.
But then,
if you still have the warning, TURN OFF THE ENGINE AND GET
EVERYONE
OUT OF THE VEHICLE until it cools down.
You may decide not to
lift the hood but to get service help right away.
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Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged,
the fan spins faster to provide more air to
cool the engine. In most every day
driving conditions the clutch is not engaged. This improves fue\
l economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing andlor high
outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch e\
ngages.
So
you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be
mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the
cooling system functioning properly. The fan will
slow down when additional
cooling is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away
as the fan clutch disengages.
If a Tire Goes Fiat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you
maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to
leak out slowly. But
if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips
about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward
that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip \
the steering wheel
firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a stop well out of
the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may
require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove
your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the‘vehicle under control by steering
the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but
you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road
if possible.
If your tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment
to change a flat tire safely.
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driv\
ing slowly to a
level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.
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These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness.
Do not use other viscosity oils such as
SAE IOW-40 or SAE 2OW-50.
Energy Conserving II
Oils with these words on the container will help you save fuel.
This doughnut-shaped logo (symbol) is used on most oil containers to help
you select the correct oil.
You should look for this on the oil container, and use
only those oils that
display the logo.
GM Goodwrench@ oil (in Canada, GM Engine Oil) meets all the requirements
for your vehicle.
Engine Oil Additives:
Don’t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready to advise if you think
something should be added.
When to Change Engine Oil:
See if any one of these is true for you:
Most trips are less than 4 miles (6 km).
It’s below freezing outside and most trips are less than 10 miles
(16 km).
The engine is at low speed most of the time (as in door to door
delivery, or in stop-and-go traffic).
You tow a trailer often.
Most trips are through dusty places.
The vehicle is frequently operated off-road.
If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your
oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5000 km) or 3 months-whichever comes
first.
Vehicles with Light Duty Emissions (8500 GVWR or less).
If none of them is true, change the oil every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12
months-whichever comes first. Change the filter at the first oil change and at
every other oil change after that.
Vehicles with Heavy Duty Emissions (8501 GVWR or more).
If none of them is true, change the oil every 6,000 miles (10 000 km) or 12
months-whichever comes first. Change the filter at the first oil change and at
every other oil change after that
‘if mileage determines when you change your
oil.
If time determines when you change your oil, change the filter ea\
ch time
you change your oil.
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Service & Appearance Cam
heavy-duty applications at temperatures above freezing, 32°F (O’C), SAE
30 grade oil is recommended.
These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness.
Do not use other viscosity oils such as
SAE IOW-40 or SAE 2OW-50.
This doughnut-shaped logo (symbol) is used on most oil contai\
ners to help
you select the correct oil.
You should
look for this on the oil container, and use only those oils that
display the logo.
GM Goodwrench@ oil (in Canada, GM Engine Oil) meets all the \
requirements
for your vehicle.
Engine Oil Additives:
Don’t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready to advise if you think
something should be added.
When to Change Engine Oil:
See if any one of these is true for you:
Most trips are less than 4 miles (6 km).
It’s below freezing outside and most trips are less than 10 miles (16
The engine is at low speed most of the time (as in door to door
You tow a trailer often.
Most trips are through dusty places. km).
delivery, or in stop-and-go traffic).
The vehicle is frequently operated off-road .
If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your
oil and filter every 2,500 miles (4000 km) or 3 months-whichever comes
first.
If none of these is true, change the oil and filter every 5,000 miles (8000
km) or 12 months-whichever comes first.
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Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change:
A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the
engine oil is changed. Refer
to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when
to change your fluid. See "Scheduled Maintenance Services" in the \
Index.
How to Check:
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this
done at a General Motors dealership Service Department.
If you
do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could
get a false reading on the dipstick.
I Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can
nean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts,
itarting
a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your
ransmission ftuid.
Wait at least
30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you
have been driving:
When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
At high speed for quite a while.
In heavy traffic-especially in hot weather.
While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the fluid must be at normal operating temperature,
which is 180°F
to 200°F (82°C to 93°C).
To check the transmission fluid hot: Get the vehicle warmed up by driving
about
15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (1 0°C). If
it's colder than
50°F (lO°C), drive the vehicle in D (3rd gear) until the engine
temperature gage moves and then remains steady for ten minutes. Then
follow the hot check procedures.
To check transmission fluid cold: A cold check is made after the vehicle
has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine
off and is used only
as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes
if outside
temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more.
If it's colder than 50°F (lO"C), you
may have
to idle the engine longer. A hot check must follow when fluid is
added during a cold check.
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Service & Appearance Care
4. Push in gently on the bulb, turn it counterclockwise and remove it from
the socket.
5. Put in a new bulb and, pushing in gently, turn it clockwise until it is
tight.
6. Put the socket back in the light assembly and replace the lens and lens
seal.
Fuses and Circuit Breakers
The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a
combination of fuses, circuit breakers, and fusible thermal links in the wiring
itself. This greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical problems.
See “Fuses and Circuit Breakers’’ in the Index for more information.
Headlights
The headlight wiring is protected by a circuit breaker in the light switch. An
electrical overload will cause the lights to go on and
off, or in some cases to
remain
off. If this happens, have your headlight wiring checked right away.
Windshield Wipers
The windshield wiper motor is protected by a circuit breaker a\
nd a fuse. If
the motor overheats due
to heavy snow, etc., the wiper will stop until the
motor cools.
If the overload is caused by some electrical problem and not
snow, etc., be sure to get it fixed.
Power Windows and Other Power Options
Circuit breakers in the fuse panel protect the power windows and other power
accessories. When the current load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens
and closes, protecting the circuit until the problem is fixed or goes away.
Trailer Wiring Harness
The optional seven-wire trailer wiring harness is protected by an in-line fuse
in the battery feed wire. This fuse is near the junction block. See “Trailer
Wiring Harness” in the Index for more information.
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