the tapered lower compression ring with the
“TOP” mark towards the top of the piston and
the gap 150º from the spreader gap, then fit
the upper compression ring with the gap 150º
on the other side of the spreader gap. Note
that the compression rings are coated with a
molybdenum skin which must not be
damaged.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
6Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 5
inclusive, but note the following differences
for the 1.6 litre engine.
7Before fitting the new rings to the pistons,
insert them into the relevant cylinder bore and
use a feeler blade to check that the end gaps
are within the limits given in the Specifications
at the beginning of this Chapter. Check the
end gaps with the ring at the top and the
bottom of the cylinder bore.8Fit the oil control ring sections with the
spreader ends abutted opposite the front of
the piston, making sure that the ends do not
overlap. The side ring gaps should be offset
120º either side of the spreader gap. Fit the
tapered lower compression ring with the
“TOP” mark uppermost and the gap 120º
from the spreader gap, then fit the upper
compression ring with the gap 120º on the
other side of the spreader gap. Note that the
compression rings are coated with a
molybdenum disulphide skin, which must not
be damaged.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
Removal
1With the engine removed from the vehicle,
remove the timing belt, crankshaft sprocket
and thrustwasher.
2Remove the pistons and connecting rods. If
no work is to be done on the pistons and
connecting rods, there is no need to push the
pistons out of the cylinder bores.
3Remove the oil pump and pick-up tube.
4Unscrew the four securing bolts and
remove the crankshaft rear oil seal housing.
5Check the main bearing caps for
identification marks and if necessary use a
centre-punch to identify them.
6Before removing the crankshaft, check that
the endfloat is within the specified limits byinserting a feeler blade between the centre
crankshaft web and the thrust bearing shell
(see illustration). This will indicate whether a
new thrust bearing shell is required.
7Unscrew the bolts and tap off the main
bearing caps complete with bearing shells.
8Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase.
9Extract the bearing shells, keeping them
identified for location.
Refitting
10Commence refitting as follows.
11Wipe the bearing shell locations in the
crankcase with a soft, non-fluffy rag.
12Wipe the crankshaft journals with a soft,
non-fluffy rag.
13If the old main bearing shells are to be
renewed (not to do so is a false economy,
unless they are virtually new) fit the five upper
halves of the main bearing shells to their
location in the crankcase. Note the flanged
thrust bearing shell should be fitted to the
centre bearing location (see illustrations).
14Identify each main bearing cap and place
in order. The number is cast on to the cap and
an arrow is also marked which should point
towards the front of the engine.
15Wipe the cap bearing shell location with a
soft non-fluffy rag.
16Fit the bearing half shell onto each main
bearing cap.
17Lubricate the crankshaft journals and the
upper and lower main bearing shells with
clean engine oil.
18Carefully lower the crankshaft into the
crankcase (see illustration).
19Lubricate the crankshaft main bearing
journals again, then fit No 1 bearing cap. Fit
the two securing bolts but do not tighten yet.
20Fit the rear bearing cap, then the centre
bearing cap, but as before do not tighten the
bolts yet.
21Fit the intermediate bearing caps and
securing bolts, noting that the studded bolt
which retains the oil strainer/pick-up tube fits
on the inlet manifold side of No 4 bearing cap.
Again, do not tighten the bolts yet.
22Check that the arrows on the bearing
caps all point towards the front of the engine,
and lightly tighten all the bearing cap bolts,
then finally tighten the bolts in a progressive
manner to the specified torque (see
illustrations).
32Crankshaft and main bearings
- removal and refitting
CVH engines 2C•23
2C
32.13b Centre main thrust bearing shell in
cylinder block - 1.8 litre (R2A)
32.22b Tightening a main bearing cap bolt.
Note studded bolt location (arrowed) on
No 4 bearing cap - 1.8 litre (R2A)32.22a The arrows on the bearing caps
must point towards the front of the engine
- 1.8 litre (R2A)32.18 Lowering the crankshaft into the
crankcase - 1.8 litre (R2A)
32.13a Rear main bearing shell in cylinder
block - 1.8 litre (R2A)
32.6 Checking crankshaft endfloat -
1.8 litre (R2A)
23Check that the crankshaft rotates freely.
Some stiffness is to be expected with new
components, but there must be no tight spots
or binding.
24Check that the crankshaft endfloat is
within the specified limits by inserting a feeler
blade between the centre crankshaft web and
the thrust bearing cap.
25Lubricate the oil seal lip with clean engine
oil, then carefully fit the crankshaft rear oil seal
housing. Using a straight-edge, ensure that
the bottom face of the oil seal housing is
aligned with the bottom face of the cylinder
block before finally tightening the securing
bolts (see illustration).
26Carefully prise the crankshaft front oil seal
from the oil pump housing, then refit the oil
pump, oil strainer/pick-up tube and
crankshaft front oil seal.
27Refit the pistons and connecting rods.
28Refit the thrustwasher, crankshaft
sprocket and timing belt.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
29Proceed as described above, noting the
following point:
On the 1.6 litre engine, note that
thrustwashers are used at the centre main
bearing (one each side of the bearing)
instead of a thrust bearing shell to control
crankshaft endfloat. Oversize
thrustwashers are available to
compensate for wear if necessary. The
thrustwashers should be fitted with the oil
grooves visible
1.8 litre (R2A type)
1Examine the bearing surfaces of the
crankshaft for scratches or scoring and, using
a micrometer, check each journal and
crankpin for ovality. Where this is found to be
in excess of 0.0254 mm (0.001 in) the
crankshaft will have to be reground and
undersize bearings fitted.
2Crankshaft regrinding should be carried out
by a suitable engineering works, who will
normally supply the matching undersize main
and big-end shell bearings.
3Note that undersize bearings may already
have been fitted either in production or by a
previous repairer. Check the markings on the
backs of the old bearing shells, and if in doubt
take them along when buying new ones.
4If the crankshaft endfloat is more than the
maximum specified amount, a new thrust
bearing shell should be fitted to the centre
main bearing.
5An accurate method of determining bearing
wear is by the use of Plastigage. The
crankshaft is located in the main bearings
(and big-end bearings if necessary) and the
Plastigage filament located across the journal
which must be dry. The cap is then fitted and
the bolts/nuts tightened to the specified
torque. On removal of the cap the width of the
filament is checked with a plastic gauge andthe running clearance compared with that
given in the Specifications.
6If the spigot bearing in the rear of the
crankshaft requires renewal extract it with a
suitable puller. Alternatively fill it with heavy
grease and use a close fitting metal dowel
driven into the centre of the bearing. Drive the
new bearing into the crankshaft with a soft
metal drift.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
7Proceed as described above but note that if
the crankshaft endfloat is more than the
maximum specified amount, new
thrustwashers should be fitted to the centre
main bearing.
Refer to Section 36, Chapter 2, Part A but
note that the crankcase ventilation baffle
should be removed from its location at the
rear of the cylinder block and cleaned if
necessary (see illustration).
Refer to Section 37, Chapter 2, Part A.
35Initial start-up after overhaul or
major repair
34Cylinder block and bores -
examination and renovation33Crankshaft and bearings -
examination and renovation
2C•24CVH engines
32.25 Fit the crankshaft rear oil seal
housing and tighten the securing bolts -
1.8 litre (R2A)34.1 Removing the crankcase ventilation
baffle