1993 FORD SIERRA belt

4Unscrew the two timing cover securing
nuts, and recover the earth tag and the
coolant hose clip.
5Unscrew the two securing bolts and
withdraw the timing cover (see illustration).
6Refit the crankshaft pulley bolt, and using a
socket on the bolt, turn the engine clockwise
until the TDC (top dead centre) lug on the
crankshaft sprocket is uppermost, and in line
with the notch in the oil pump flange, and the
pointer on the camshaft sprocket is aligned
with the dot on the cylinder head front face
(see illustrations).
7Loosen the two timing belt tensioner bolts,
press the tensioner to the left against the
spring tension, and tighten the two bolts to
retain the tensioner in the released position.
8Mark the running direction of the belt if it is
to be re-used, then slip it off the sprockets,and withdraw the belt (see illustration).
9If desired, the camshaft and crankshaft
sprockets can be removed as follows,
otherwise proceed to paragraph 19. The
coolant pump sprocket is integral with the
pump and cannot be removed separately.
10Unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt,
preventing the crankshaft from turning as
before if necessary, then remove the
crankshaft sprocket. Refit the bolt part way
and use a puller if necessary. Recover the
Woodruff key from the end of the crankshaft
and remove the thrustwasher (see
illustrations).
11Unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt while
holding the sprocket stationary with a 41 mm
ring spanner. Alternatively, make up a tool
similar to that shown for tightening the bolt
and hold the sprocket using two boltsengaged in the sprockets holes. Recover the
distributor rotor shaft which is held in place by
the camshaft sprocket bolt (see illustration).
12Remove the camshaft sprocket, refitting
the bolt part way and using a puller if
necessary (see illustration).
13If desired, the timing belt backplate can
be removed by lifting it from the studs (see
illustration)and the timing belt tensioner and
coolant pump can be removed.
14If required, the camshaft oil seal can be
removed using self-tapping screws and a pair
of grips. A new seal can be fitted using a
suitable tube drift to press it into place.
Lubricate the seal lips with clean engine oil
before installation.
Refitting
15Refit the sprockets as follows.
CVH engines 2C•11
2C
18.8 Withdrawing the timing belt -
1.8 litre (R2A)
18.13 Removing the timing belt backplate -
1.8 litre (R2A)18.12 Using a puller to remove the
camshaft sprocket - 1.8 litre (R2A)18.11 Removing the camshaft sprocket
bolt and distributor rotor shaft -
1.8 litre (R2A)
18.10c . . . and the thrustwasher -
1.8 litre (R2A)18.10b . . . the Woodruff key . . .18.10a Remove the crankshaft
sprocket . . .
18.6b TDC pointer on camshaft sprocket
aligned with dot on cylinder head -
1.8 litre (R2A)18.6a TDC lug on crankshaft sprocket
aligned with notch in oil pump flange -
1.8 litre (R2A)

16Where applicable, refit the timing belt
tensioner and coolant pump, locate the timing
belt backplate over the studs, then fit the
camshaft sprocket and the distributor rotor
shaft.
17The camshaft sprocket bolt must be
coated with sealant before installation. The
manufacturers recommend Loctite 74 or 274,
or Omnifit 30M blue. With the sealant applied,
insert the bolt, hold the camshaft sprocket
stationary as during removal, and tighten the
bolt to the specified torque (see illustration).
18Refit the thrustwasher with the convex
side facing forwards, and refit the Woodruff
key, then refit the crankshaft sprocket with the
“FRONT” mark facing forwards.
19Fit the timing belt over the crankshaft
sprocket, but do not engage it with the other
sprockets yet. Be careful not to kink the belt,
and if the old belt is being refitted, observe the
previously noted running direction.20Make sure that the TDC pointer on the
camshaft sprocket is still aligned with the dot
on the cylinder head front face.
21Check that the TDC lug on the crankshaft
sprocket is still in line with the notch in the oil
pump flange. If necessary, refit the crankshaft
pulley bolt, if not already done, and using a
socket on the bolt, turn the crankshaft by the
shortest possible route to align the lug and
notch.
22Starting at the crankshaft and working in
an anti-clockwise direction, fit the timing belt
over the camshaft sprocket, round the
tensioner roller, and over the coolant pump
sprocket.
23Slacken the tensioner bolts, allow the
tensioner roller to rest against the belt, then
tighten the tensioner bolts.
24Refit the crankshaft pulley bolt, if not
already done, and using a socket on the bolt,
turn the engine through two revolutions in a
clockwise direction (to bring No 1 cylinder
back to TDC), then turn the crankshaft 60º
anti-clockwise (No 1 cylinder at 60º BTDC).
25The belt tension should now be checked
by applying Ford tension gauge, tool No 21-
113 to the longest belt run. Desired gauge
readings are:
Used belt - 4 to 6
New belt - 10 to 11
If the tension gauge is not available, a rough
guide is that the belt tension is correct when
the belt can be twisted 90º in the middle of the
longest run with the fingers using moderate
pressure (see illustration). In this case, the
vehicle should be taken to a Ford dealer so
that the belt tension can be checked using the
special gauge at the earliest opportunity.
26If adjustment of belt tension is necessary,
turn the crankshaft clockwise to bring No 1
cylinder to TDC, then slacken the tensioner
bolts and move the tensioner to increase or
decrease the belt tension. Tighten the
tensioner bolts to the specified torque.
27Turn the crankshaft 90º clockwise past
TDC, then anti-clockwise back to the 60º
BTDC position (No 1 cylinder at 60º BTDC).
Check the belt tension again (see
illustration).28Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs
26 and 27 until the belt tension is correct.
29Refit the timing cover and secure with the
two bolts and nuts. Ensure that the earth tag
and the coolant hose clip are fitted under the
relevant nuts (see illustration).
30Unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt, then
refit the crankshaft pulley and the bolt and
washer. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to
the specified torque, preventing the
crankshaft from turning as described in
paragraph 2.
31If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations described in paragraph 1.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
32If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the
following operations.
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b)Remove the alternator drivebelt.
c)Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs, noting their locations; detach the
HT lead bracket from the camshaft cover,
and position the leads out of the way.
d)Move the coolant hoses from the front of
the timing cover, and position them
across the top of the camshaft cover out
of the way.
e)If desired for improved access, remove
the fan shroud and the cooling fan
assembly, although this is not essential.
33Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to
30 inclusive, noting the following differences
for the 1.6 litre engine (see illustrations).
a)There is no sensor toothed disc on the
crankshaft pulley.
b)A two-piece timing cover is fitted,
consisting of upper and lower sections,
each secured by two bolts. No earth tag
or coolant hose clip is fitted to the bolts.
c)The TDC datum on the oil pump takes the
form of a lug instead of a notch.
d)There is no distributor rotor shaft fitted to
the camshaft sprocket bolt.
e)There is no timing belt backplate.
34On completion, if the engine is in the
vehicle, reverse the operations given in
paragraph 32.
2C•12CVH engines
18.17 Tightening the camshaft sprocket
bolt. Hold the sprocket stationary using an
improvised tool with two bolts engaged in
the sprocket holes - 1.8 litre (R2A)
18.27 No 1 cylinder at 60°BTDC for
checking of timing belt tension -
1.8 litre (R2A)
18.29 Earth tag (1) and coolant hose clip (2)
locations on timing cover -
1.8 litre (R2A)
18.25 Twisting the timing belt to assess its
tension - 1.8 litre (R2A)

leaving the wires, hoses, pipes and cables
connected. However, care must be taken not
to strain any of the wires, hoses or cables.
31Disconnect the exhaust gas oxygen
sensor wiring connector (see illustration)
then unscrew the three securing bolts and
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold flange. Recover the gasket.
32If desired, remove the exhaust manifold.
33If the inlet manifold is to be removed with
the cylinder head, disconnect all relevant
wires, hoses, pipes and cables, otherwise
unbolt the manifold and move it to one side,
ensuring that it is adequately supported.
34Note the information given in paragraphs
18 to 21 inclusive of Section 20.
Refitting
35With the cylinder head refitted, proceed
as follows.
36Refit the manifolds and/or reconnect all
wires, hoses, pipes and cables as applicable.
37Reconnect the exhaust downpipe to the
manifold using a new gasket, and reconnect
the exhaust gas oxygen sensor wiring
connector.
38Reconnect the earth lead to the battery
tray.
39Refit the spark plugs and reconnect the
HT leads.
40Refit the air cleaner.
41Reconnect the coolant hoses to the
thermostat housing and cylinder head.
42Fill the cooling system.
43Reconnect the battery negative lead.Note: The cylinder head bolts must always be
renewed after slackening, and a new cylinder
head gasket and camshaft cover gasket must
be used on refitting. If the engine has recently
run, the cylinder head must be allowed to cool
to room temperature before it is removed.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
Removal
1With the manifolds removed, proceed as
follows.
2Remove the timing belt, camshaft sprocket,
and timing belt backplate.
3Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose
from the camshaft cover.
4Unscrew the nine securing bolts and
remove the camshaft cover and gasket (see
illustration).
5Unscrew the ten cylinder head bolts half a
turn at a time in the reverse order to that
shown for tightening.
6With the bolts removed, lift the cylinder
head from the block (see illustration). If the
cylinder head is stuck, tap it free with a
wooden mallet. Do not insert a lever into the
joint between the cylinder head and block as
this may result in damage to the mating faces.
Place the cylinder head on blocks of wood to
prevent damage to the valves.7Recover the gasket, and the locating
dowels if they are loose (see illustration).
Refitting
8Commence refitting as follows.
9Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 piston is
approximately 20.0 mm (0.8 in) before TDC.
This precaution will prevent any damage to
open valves.
10Make sure that the mating faces of the
cylinder block and cylinder head are perfectly
clean, then refit the locating dowels to the
block where applicable, and locate a new
gasket over the dowels with the red sealing
bead and the “1.8” mark uppermost (see
illustrations). Do not use jointing compound.
11Turn the camshaft so that the TDC pointer
on the camshaft sprocket is aligned with the
dot on the cylinder head front face.
12Lower the cylinder head onto the gasket,
making sure that the locating dowels engage.
13Insert the new cylinder head bolts into
their locations in the cylinder head, then
tighten the bolts in the order shown to the five
stages given in the Specifications (see
illustrations).
14Fit a new camshaft cover gasket to the
cylinder head, ensuring that the gasket
locates correctly over the edges of the
cylinder head (see illustration).
15Refit the camshaft cover and tighten the
bolts evenly, ensuring that the studded bolts
which retain the HT lead clips are refitted to
their correct positions (see illustration).
20Cylinder head - removal and
refitting (engine removed)
2C•14CVH engines
19.31 Disconnecting the exhaust gas
oxygen sensor wiring connector -
1.6/1.8 litre (R6A)20.6 Withdraw the cylinder head bolts and
lift the cylinder head from the block -
1.8 litre (R2A)
20.10b . . . then locate a new gasket with
the red sealing bead and “1.8” mark
uppermost - 1.8 litre (R2A)20.10a Fit the locating dowels (arrowed) to
the block . . .20.7 Recover the cylinder head gasket -
1.8 litre (R2A)
20.4 Remove the camshaft cover and
gasket - 1.8 litre (R2A)

16Reconnect the crankcase ventilation hose
to the camshaft cover.
17Refit the timing belt backplate, camshaft
sprocket and timing belt.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
18With the manifolds removed, proceed as
follows.
19Remove the timing belt.
20Proceed as shown in paragraphs 3 to 16
inclusive, noting the following differences for
the 1.6 litre engine only:
a)Unscrew the cylinder head bolts in the
reverse order to that shown for tightening.
b)The cylinder head gasket is identified by a
single tooth on its edge, and the gasket
must be fitted with the tooth nearest theoil filter end of the engine, as shown (see
illustration).
c)Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the
order shown (see illustration), to the four
stages given in the Specifications at the
beginning of this Chapter.
d)Ignore the reference to the studded
camshaft cover bolts.
21On completion, refit the timing belt.
Note: A valve spring compressor will be
required during this procedure. New valve
stem oil seals should be used on
reassembly.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
Dismantling
1With the cylinder head removed, remove
the camshaft.
2Using a valve spring compressor, compress
one of the valve springs until the split collets
can be removed from the grooves in the valve
stem. Release the compressor and remove
the cap and spring, identifying them for
location. If the cap is difficult to release, do
not continue to tighten the compressor, but
gently tap the top of the tool with a hammer.
Always make sure that the compressor is
firmly located on the valve head and the cap
(see illustrations).
3Prise the oil seal from the valve stem, and
remove the spring seat, then withdraw the
valve (see illustrations).
21Cylinder head - dismantling
and reassembly
CVH engines 2C•15
2C
20.14 Ensure that the camshaft cover
gasket locates over the edges of the
cylinder head - 1.8 litre (R2A)
21.2c . . . then remove the cap and spring -
1.8 litre (R2A)21.2b . . . to free the split collets . . .
20.20b Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence - 1.6 litre20.20a Cylinder head gasket correctly
located - 1.6 litre
A Locating dowelsB Identification teeth
21.2a Compress the valve spring . . .
20.13b Tighten the cylinder head bolts
using an angle gauge - 1.8 litre (R2A)20.13a Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence - 1.8 litre (R2A)
20.15 Fit the camshaft cover, ensuring that
the studded bolts (arrowed) are correctly
located - 1.8 litre (R2A)

Note: New flywheel securing bolts must be
used on refitting.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
1Refer to Section 26, Chapter 2, PartA but
also note the following points.
2The flywheel/driveplate securing bolts must
be renewed when refitting, and the new bolts
are supplied ready-coated with threadlocking
compound (see illustration).
3The ring gear cannot be renewed
independently of the flywheel/driveplate. If the
ring gear is badly worn or has missing teeth, a
new flywheel/driveplate must be fitted.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
4Refer to Section 26, Chapter 2, PartA,
noting the following points.
5If the engine is in the vehicle, refer to
Chapter 6 when removing the clutch.
6The flywheel securing bolts must be
renewed when refitting, and the new bolts are
supplied ready-coated with thread-locking
compound.
7The ring gear cannot be renewed
independently of the flywheel. If the ring gear
is badly worn or has missing teeth, a new
flywheel must be fitted. Similarly, the flywheel
must be renewed if the crankshaft
speed/position sensor toothed disc is
damaged.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
1Remove the timing belt and the crankshaft
sprocket and thrustwasher.
2Withdraw the oil seal using an oil seal
removal tool or by drilling the oil seal outer
face and using self-tapping screws and a pair
of grips.
3Clean the oil seal housing, then smear the
lip of a new oil seal with clean engine oil.
4Fit the oil seal using the crankshaft pulley
bolt and a suitable tool similar to that shown
(see illustration).5As the seal is drawn into position, the inner
edge of the seal may be damaged as it passes
over the end of the shaft. To prevent this, as
soon as the seal begins to locate in the
housing remove the tools being used to fit the
seal, and carefully work the inner edge of the
seal over the end of the crankshaft, using a
small screwdriver or similar blunt tool. The
seal can then be pushed home using the tools
described previously (see illustration).
6Refit the thrustwasher, crankshaft sprocket
and timing belt.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
7Remove the timing belt, and the crankshaft
sprocket and thrustwasher.
8Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 4
inclusive.
9Refit the thrustwasher, crankshaft sprocket
and timing belt.
1Remove the flywheel/driveplate.
2Prise out the oil seal. If necessary, drill the
outer face of the oil seal and use self-tappingscrews and a pair of grips to withdraw the
seal (see illustration).
3Clean the oil seal housing, then fit the new
oil seal using two flywheel/driveplate securing
bolts and a tool similar to that shown (see
illustration). A suitable tool can be
improvised using a narrow strip of metal sheet
bent to form a circle of the correct diameter,
and a large metal disc with appropriate holes
drilled to allow the flywheel/driveplate
securing bolts to pass through. Make sure
that the seal lip faces into the engine and
lightly smear the lip with clean engine oil.
4Refit the flywheel/driveplate.
Note: A new gasket and new sump bolts must
be used when refitting, and suitable sealant will
be required (available from a Ford dealer). Note
that it is preferable to keep the engine upright
until the sump has been removed to prevent
sludge from entering the engine internals.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
Removal
1With the engine removed, proceed as
follows.
2Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
engine adapter plate.
3Unscrew the fourteen securing bolts and
withdraw the two reinforcing strips and the
sump. If the sump is stuck, carefully tap it
sideways to free it. Do not prise between the
mating faces.
27Sump - removal and refitting
26Crankshaft rear oil seal -
renewal
25Crankshaft front oil seal -
renewal
24Flywheel/driveplate - removal,
inspection and refitting
CVH engines 2C•19
2C
25.5 Crankshaft front oil seal (arrowed)
located in oil pump housing - 1.8 litre (R2A)26.3 Using a special tool to fit the
crankshaft rear oil seal - 1.8 litre (R2A)26.2 Crankshaft rear oil seal location
(arrowed)
25.4 Using a special tool to fit the
crankshaft front oil seal - 1.8 litre (R2A)24.2 Using an improvised tool to hold the
flywheel stationary while tightening the
securing bolts - 1.8 litre (R2A)
A tool can be improvised to fit
the crankshaft front oil seal
by using a metal tube of
suitable diameter and a large
washer or metal disc. Do not attempt to
drive the seal home using a tube drift.

4Recover the gasket.
5Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder block and sump.
Refitting
6Commence refitting by applying sealing
compound (available from a Ford dealer) to
the cylinder block, oil pump housing and
crankshaft rear oil seal housing mating faces
at the points shown (see illustration). Note
that the sump must be fitted within ten
minutes of applying the sealing compound.
7Fit a new gasket, ensuring that it engages
correctly in the grooves in the crankshaft rear
oil seal carrier and the oil pump housing (see
illustration).
8Locate the sump on the gasket and loosely
fit the securing bolts.
9Tighten all the bolts slightly to obtain a light
and even gasket preload.
10Tighten the bolts to the specified torque in
the sequence shown (see illustration). Note
that the ten M8 bolts and the four M6 bolts
are tightened to different torques.
11Refit the engine adapter plate and the
flywheel/driveplate.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
Note: The following procedure applies to the
1.6 litre CVH engine. For the 1.8 litre (R6Atype) engine, proceed as described above for
the 1.8 litre (R2A type).
Removal
12Sump removal and refitting is easier if the
engine is removed from the vehicle. However,
if the engine is in the vehicle, proceed as
follows. If the engine has been removed from
the vehicle, proceed to paragraph 15.
13Remove the clutch.
14Drain the engine oil into a suitable
container.
15Remove the flywheel and the engine
adapter plate.
16Unscrew the eighteen securing bolts and
withdraw the sump. If the sump is stuck,
carefully tap it sideways to free it. Do not prise
between the mating faces. Recover the
gasket.
17Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder block and sump.
Refitting
18Apply sealing compound to the joints
between the oil pump and the cylinder block,
and the crankshaft rear oil seal housing and
the cylinder block, as shown (see
illustration).
19Without applying any further sealer, locate
the gasket into the grooves of the oil pump
and the rear oil seal housing. To hold the
gasket in position, studs can be inserted
temporarily in the bolt hole positions circled in
the illustration indicating the bolt tightening
sequence. Make sure that the gasket spacing
pips are seated correctly.20Locate the sump on the gasket, taking
care not to displace the gasket, then loosely
fit the securing bolts. With the sump in
position, where applicable remove the studs
from the bolt holes, and loosely fit the
remaining securing bolts.
21Tighten the bolts to the torque given in the
Specifications at the beginning of this
Chapter, in two stages, and in the sequence
shown (see illustration).
22Refit the engine adapter plate and the
flywheel.
23If the engine is in the vehicle, refit the
clutch. Refill the engine with oil.
Note: New oil pump and oil pick-up tube
gaskets should be used when refitting.
Removal
1With the engine removed, proceed as
follows.
2Remove the timing belt, crankshaft
sprocket and thrustwasher.
3Remove the sump.
4Unscrew and remove the nut securing the
oil strainer/pick-up tube to No 4 main bearing
cap (see illustration).
5Using a suitable Allen key, unscrew the two
bolts securing the oil pick-up tube to the oil
pump, and withdraw the oil strainer/pick-up
tube. Recover the washers and gasket (see
illustration).
28Oil pump - removal and
refitting
2C•20CVH engines
27.6 Apply sealing compound to the areas
shown before fitting the sump gasket -
1.8 litre (R2A)27.10 Sump bolt tightening sequence -
1.8 litre (R2A)
27.21 Sump bolt tightening sequence -
1.6 litre
Arrow indicates front of engine
27.18 Apply sealing compound at the
points arrowed before refitting the sump -
1.6 litre
A Oil pump/cylinder block joint
B Crankshaft rear oil seal
housing/cylinder block joint
27.7 Ensure that the gasket locates
correctly on the oil pump housing -
1.8 litre (R2A)
28.4 Oil strainer/pick-up tube securing nut
(arrowed) on No 4 main bearing cap

6Unscrew and remove the six securing bolts,
and withdraw the oil pump over the front of
the crankshaft. Recover the gasket.
Refitting
7Commence refitting by prising the
crankshaft front oil seal from the pump
housing.
8Prime the pump by injecting clean engine
oil into it and turning it by hand.
9Using a new gasket, fit the oil pump over
the front of the crankshaft, ensuring that the
central rotor engages with the flats on the
crankshaft (see illustration). Fit the securing
bolts, and using a straight-edge, ensure that
the bottom face of the oil pump is aligned with
the bottom face of the cylinder block before
finally tightening the bolts.
10Using a new gasket, fit the oil pick-up
tube to the oil pump and secure with the two
bolts.11Refit the oil strainer/pick-up tube securing
nut to No 4 main bearing cap.
12Refit the sump.
13Fit the crankshaft front oil seal using a
suitable tool.
14Refit the thrustwasher, crankshaft
sprocket and timing belt.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
1If oil pump wear is suspected, check the
cost and availability of new parts and the cost
of a new pump. Examine the pump as
described in this Section and then decide
whether renewal or repair is the best course of
action.
2Using a suitable Torx socket, unscrew the
seven securing bolts and remove the oil pump
cover (see illustration).
3Mark the rotor faces so that the rotors can
be refitted in their original positions, then lift
the rotors from the pump housing (see
illustration).
4Unscrew the pressure relief valve plug and
withdraw the spring and plunger (see
illustration).
5Thoroughly clean all parts in petrol or
paraffin and wipe dry using a non-fluffy rag.
6Commence reassembly by lubricating the
relief valve plunger. Fit the plunger and spring,
and screw the plug into place.
7Lubricate the rotors and fit them, observingthe marks made when dismantling, if
applicable.
8The necessary clearances may now be
checked using a machined straight-edge
(such as a good steel rule) and a set of feeler
blades. The critical clearances are between
the lobes of the centre rotor and convex faces
of the outer rotor; between the outer rotor and
pump body; and between both rotors and the
cover plate (endfloat). The serviceable
clearances are given in the Specifications.
9Endfloat can be measured by placing a
straight-edge across the pump body and
measuring the clearance between the two
rotors and the straight-edge using feeler
blades.
10Refit the pump cover and tighten the
securing bolts.
11Prime the pump before refitting.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
12The procedure is as described above but
refer to the Specifications at the beginning of
this Chapter for the rotor clearances.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
Removal
1With the engine removed from the vehicle,
remove the sump and the cylinder head.
2Check the big-end caps for identification
marks and if necessary use a centre-punch to
identify the caps and connecting rods (see
illustration).
3Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 crankpin is
at its lowest point, then unscrew the nuts or
bolts and tap off the cap. Keep the bearing
shells in the cap and connecting rod.
4Using the handle of a hammer, push the
piston and connecting rod up the bore and
withdraw from the top of the cylinder block.
Loosely refit the cap to the connecting rod.
5Repeat the procedure in paragraphs 3 and
4 on No 4 piston and connecting rod, then
turn the crankshaft through half a turn and
repeat the procedure on Nos 2 and 3 pistons
and connecting rods.
30Pistons and connecting rods
- removal and refitting
29Oil pump - dismantling,
inspection and reassembly
CVH engines 2C•21
2C
29.2 Remove the oil pump cover
30.2 Big-end cap and connecting rod
identification marks (arrowed) -
1.8 litre (R2A)29.4 Unscrew the pressure relief valve plug
and withdraw the spring and plunger29.3 Lifting out the oil pump inner rotor
28.9 Refitting the oil pump28.5 Removing the oil pick-up tube from
the oil pump

Refitting
6Commence refitting as follows.
7Clean the backs of the bearing shells and
the recesses in the connecting rods and big-
end caps.
8Press the bearing shells into the connecting
rods and caps in their correct positions and oil
them liberally. Note that the lugs must be
adjacent to each other (see illustration).
9Lubricate the cylinder bores with engine oil.
10Fit a ring compressor to No 1 piston then
insert the piston and connecting rod into No 1
cylinder. With No 1 crankpin at its lowest
point, drive the piston carefully into the
cylinder with the wooden handle of a hammer,
and at the same time guide the connecting
rod onto the crankpin. The piston must be
fitted with the cut-out in the piston crown (and
the lug on the piston skirt), facing the front of
the engine, with the oil hole in the connecting
rod on the inlet manifold side of the engine
(see illustrations).
11Oil the crankpin, then fit the big-end
bearing cap in its previously noted position,
and tighten the nuts or bolts to the specified
torque.
12Check that the crankshaft turns freely.
13Repeat the procedure given in
paragraphs 11 to 12 inclusive on the
remaining pistons.
14Refit the cylinder head and the sump.
1.6 and 1.8 litre (R6A type)
15The procedure is as described above,
noting the following points:
a)On the 1.6 litre engine, when refitting a
piston/connecting rod assembly, the
piston must be fitted with the arrow on
the piston crown and the cast pip on the
piston skirt facing the front (timing belt
end) of the engine (see illustration).
b)On the 1.6 litre engine, the big-end
bearing caps locate on dowels in the
connecting rods, and can only be fitted in
one position.
1.8 litre (R2A type)
1Examine the pistons for ovality, scoring,
and scratches. Check the connecting rods for
wear or damage.
2The gudgeon pins are an interference fit in
the connecting rods, and if new pistons are to
be fitted to the existing connecting rods the
work should be carried out by a Ford dealer
who will have the necessary tooling. Note that
the oil hole in the connecting rod must be
located on the right-hand side of the piston
(the cut-out in the piston crown and the lug on
the piston skirt face forwards).
3If new rings are to be fitted to the existing
pistons, expand the old rings over the top ofthe pistons (see illustration). Note that the oil
control ring is in three sections.
4Before fitting the piston rings, clean out the
piston ring grooves using a piece of old piston
ring as a scraper. Be careful not to scratch the
aluminium surface of the pistons. Protect your
fingers - piston ring edges are sharp. Also
probe the groove oil return holes.
5Fit the oil control ring sections with the
spreader ends abutted opposite the front of
the piston. The side ring gaps should be 25
mm (1.0 in) either side of the spreader gap. Fit
31Pistons and connecting rods
- examination and renovation
2C•22CVH engines
30.8 Bearing shell lug (arrowed) must
engage with groove in big-end cap -
1.8 litre (R2A)30.10b . . . and lug (arrowed) on piston skirt
must face the front of the engine
31.3 Using an old feeler gauge to aid the
fitting of a piston ring - 1.8 litre (R2A)30.15 The arrow (A) and the cast pip (B)
must face the front of the engine - 1.6 litre
30.10d Fitting a piston and connecting rod
into the cylinder bore - 1.8 litre (R2A)30.10c Connecting rod oil hole (arrowed)
must face inlet manifold side of engine -
1.8 litre (R2A)
30.10a Cut-out (arrowed) in piston
crown . . .
The use of two or three old
feeler blades will be helpful
in preventing the rings
dropping into empty grooves.