1991 BMW 5 SERIES Water

3 Interior trim- maintenance
1
Interior trim panels can be kept clean by
wiping with a damp cloth. If they do become
stained (which can be more apparent on light-
coloured trim), use a little liquid detergent and
a soft nail brush to scour the grime out of the
grain of the material. Do not forget to keep the
headlining clean in the same way. After
cleaning, application of a high-quality rubber
and vinyl protector will help prevent oxidation
and cracks. The protector can also be applied
to weatherstrips, vacuum lines and rubber
hoses, which often fail as a result of chemical
degradation, and to the tyres.
4 Upholstery and carpets-
maintenance
1
Mats and carpets should be brushed or
vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free
of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging,
and make quite sure they are dry before
refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be
kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they
do become stained (which can be more
apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a
little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to
scour the grime out of the grain of the
material. Do not forget to keep the headlining
clean in the same way as the upholstery.
When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle,
do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned.
Excessive damp could get into the seams and
padded interior, causing stains, offensive
odours or even rot.
5 Bodywork repair-
minor damage
3
Note:For more detailed information about
bodywork repair, Haynes Publishing produce
a book by Lindsay Porter called “The Car
Bodywork Repair Manual”. This incorporates
information on such aspects as rust treatment,
painting and glass-fibre repairs, as well as
details on more ambitious repairs involving
welding and panel beating.
Repairs of minor scratches in
bodywork
If the scratch is very superficial, and does
not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of
the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a
very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint
from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water.
Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a
fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.
Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique
is required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste in
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of
the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this Section.
Repairs of dents in bodywork
When deep denting of the vehicle’s
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact, and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is
better to bring the level of the dent up to a
point which is about 3 mm below the level of
the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a suitable block of wood firmly against
the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent a
large area of the bodywork from being
“belled-out”.
Should the dent be in a section of the
bodywork which has a double skin, or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal insidethe area - particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.
The next stage of the repair is the removal
of the paint from the damaged area, and from
an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
power drill, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
score the surface of the bare metal with a
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
area. This will provide a really good “key” for
the filler paste.
To complete the repair, see the Section on
filling and respraying.
Repairs of rust holes or gashes
in bodywork
Remove all paint from the affected area,
and from an inch or so of the surrounding
“sound” bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a
wire brush on a power drill. If these are not
available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will
do the job most effectively. With the paint
removed, you will be able to judge the severity
of the corrosion, and therefore decide
whether to renew the whole panel (if this is
possible) or to repair the affected area. New
body panels are not as expensive as most
people think, and it is often quicker and more
satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt
to repair large areas of corrosion.
Remove all fittings from the affected area,
except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg
headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in
order to create a slight depression for the filler
paste.
Wire-brush the affected area to remove the
powdery rust from the
surface of the remaining metal. Paint the
affected area with rust-inhibiting paint, if the
back of the rusted area is accessible, treat
this also.
Before filling can take place, it will be
necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.
Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre
matting, is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.
Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim
11•2 Bodywork and fittings
If the inside of the vehicle
gets wet accidentally, it is
worthwhile taking some
trouble to dry it out properly,
particularly where carpets are involved.
Do not leave oil or electric heaters
inside the vehicle for this purpose.

it to the approximate size and shape required,
then pull off the backing paper (if used) and
stick the tape over the hole; it can be
overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs - filling and
respraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally speaking, those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair. A
wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be
found invaluable for imparting a smooth and
well-contoured finish to the surface of the filler.
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long, the paste will become sticky and begin
to “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue to
add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute
intervals, until the level of the filler is just
proud of the surrounding bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, the excess
can be removed using a metal plane or file.
From then on, progressively-finer grades of
abrasive paper should be used, starting with a
40-grade production paper, and finishing with
a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap
the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,
or wooden block - otherwise the surface of
the filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-
dry paper should be periodically rinsed in
water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage, the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
of the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.
Spray the whole area with a light coat of
primer - this will show up any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
spray-and-repair procedure until you are
satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the
feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect.
Clean the repair area with clean water, and
allow to dry fully.The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thicknesses of
newspaper, for the masking operations.
Before commencing to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint, rather
than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-
dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer
until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
work area should be thoroughly doused with
water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying
on more paint.
Spray on the top coat, again building up the
thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying at one edge of the repair area,
and then, using a side-to-side motion, work
until the whole repair area and about 2 inches
of the surrounding original paintwork is
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to
15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of
paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then, using a paintwork renovator, or
a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of
the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally,
apply wax polish.
Plastic components
With the use of more and more plastic body
components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg
bumpers. spoilers, and in some cases major
body panels), rectification of more serious
damage to such items has become a matter
of either entrusting repair work to a specialist
in this field, or renewing complete
components. Repair of such damage by the
DIY owner is not really feasible, owing to the
cost of the equipment and materials required
for effecting such repairs. The basic technique
involves making a groove along the line of the
crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in a
power drill. The damaged part is then weldedback together, using a hot-air gun to heat up
and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.
Any excess plastic is then removed, and the
area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is
important that a filler rod of the correct plastic
is used, as body components can be made of
a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,
ABS, polypropylene).
Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions,
this is used in similar fashion to the bodywork
filler used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.
If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will be left with the
problem of finding a suitable paint for finishing
which is compatible with the type of plastic
used. At one time, the use of a universal paint
was not possible, owing to the complex range
of plastics encountered in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally
speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber
satisfactorily. However, it is now possible to
obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which
consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer
and coloured top coat. Full instructions are
normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the
method of use is to first apply the pre-primer
to the component concerned, and allow it to
dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is
applied, and left to dry for about an hour
before finally applying the special-coloured
top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured
component, where the paint will flex with the
plastic or rubber, a property that standard
paint does not normally possess.
6 Bodywork repair-
major damage
5
1Major damage must be repaired by a
qualified bodywork repair specialist, or
preferably by a BMW dealer. Specialised
equipment is required to do the job properly.
2If the damage is extensive, the bodyshell
must be checked for proper alignment, or the
vehicle’s handling characteristics may be
adversely affected and other components
may wear at an accelerated rate.
3Due to the fact that all of the major body
components (bonnet, wings, etc.) are
separate units, any seriously damaged
components should be replaced with new
ones rather than repaired.
Bodywork and fittings 11•3
11
If bodystopper is used, it can
be mixed with cellulose
thinners to form a really thin
paste which is ideal for filling
small holes
Sometimes bodywork
components can be found in
a scrapyard that specialises
in used vehicle components,
often at a considerable saving over the
cost of new parts.

19After adjustment, screw the stop pads in
or out to support the bonnet in its new
position (see illustration).
20The bonnet mechanism should be
lubricated periodically with grease, to prevent
sticking or jamming.
11 Bumpers-
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1Detach the bumper cover (if applicable) and
where necessary the front spoiler.
2Disconnect any wiring or other components
that would interfere with bumper removal.
3Support the bumper with a jack or axle
stand. Alternatively, have an assistant support
the bumper as the bolts are removed.
4Remove the retaining bolts and detach the
bumper.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the retaining bolts securely, then refit the
bumper cover and any other components that
were removed.
12 Door trim panel-
removal and refitting
1
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code before
disconnecting the battery, Refer to the
information on page 0-7 at the front of this
manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2Remove all door trim panel retaining screws
and door pull/armrest assemblies.3On models with manual (non-electric)
windows, remove the window regulator
handle (see illustration). On models with
electric windows, prise off the control switch
assembly and unplug it.
4Disengage the trim panel-to-door retaining
clips. Work around the outer edge until the
panel is free.
5Once all of the clips are disengaged, detach
the trim panel, unplug any electrical
connectors, and remove the trim panel from
the vehicle.
6For access to the inner door, carefully peel
back the plastic water shield.
Refitting
7Prior to refitting the door trim panel, be sure
to renew any clips in the panel which may
have come out (or got broken) during the
removal procedure.
8Plug in the electrical connectors (where
applicable) and place the panel in position in
the door. Press the door panel into place until
the clips are seated, then refit the
armrest/door pulls. Refit the window regulator
handle, where applicable.
13 Door- removal, refitting and
adjustment
1
Removal
1Remove the door trim panel (see Section
12). Disconnect any electrical connectors, andpush them through the door opening so they
won’t interfere with door removal.
2Place a trolley jack or axle stand under the
door, or have an assistant on hand to support
it when the hinge bolts are removed. Note: If a
jack or axle stand is used, place a rag between
it and the door, to protect the door’s painted
surfaces.
3Scribe or mark around the door hinges.
4Disconnect the door check strap by prising
the circlip out of the end of the pin, then slide
the pin out (see illustration). A roll pin is fitted
to some models; this is removed by driving it
out with a pin punch.
5Remove the hinge-to-door nuts, and
carefully lift off the door (see illustration).
Refitting and adjustment
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
7Following refitting of the door, check the
alignment and adjust it if necessary as
follows:
a) Up-and-down and fore-and-aft
adjustments are made by loosening the
hinge-to-body nuts and moving the door
as necessary.
b) The door lock striker can also be adjusted
both up and down and sideways, to
provide positive engagement with the lock
mechanism. This is done by loosening the
mounting bolts and moving the striker as
necessary (see illustration).
14 Boot lid/tailgate- removal,
refitting and adjustment
1
Boot lid
1Open the boot lid, and cover the edges of
the boot compartment with pads or cloths to
protect the painted surfaces when the lid is
removed.
2Disconnect any cables or electrical
connectors attached to the boot lid that would
interfere with removal.
3Make alignment marks around the hinge
bolts (see illustration).
4Have an assistant support the lid, then
remove the lid-to-hinge bolts on both sides
and lift it off.
11•6 Bodywork and fittings
13.7 The door lock striker position can be
adjusted after loosening the screws
(arrowed)13.5 Remove the nuts (arrowed) and
detach the door from the hinges
13.4 Detach the circlip (arrowed) from the
tapered end of the pin12.3 On models without electric windows,
prise off the window regulator handle trim
piece for access to the retaining screw

15 Latch, lock cylinder and
handles- removal, refitting
and adjustment
1
1Remove the trim panel(s) and, on the door,
the plastic shield (see Section 12).
Latch
2Disconnect the operating rods from the
latch (see illustration).
3Remove the latch retaining screws.
4Detach the latch assembly and withdraw it.
5Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Lock cylinder
6Detach the linkage.
7Use a screwdriver to slide the retaining clip
off, and withdraw the lock cylinder.
8Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Interior handle
9Disconnect the operating rod from the
handle.
10Remove the retaining screws and lift the
handle from the door.
11Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Exterior handle
12Lift up the handle for access, remove the
two retaining screws, then detach the handle
from the door.
13Refitting is the reverse of removal.
16 Door window glass-
removal and refitting
3
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery, Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2Remove the door trim panel and the plastic
water shield (see Section 12).
3Prise the door inner and outer weatherstrips
from the door.
Front door
4Raise the window so that the mounting
bolts can be reached through the access hole.
If electric windows are fitted, temporarily
reconnect the battery cable to accomplish
this.
5Support the glass, and remove the retaining
bolts securing the glass to the regulator.
6Lift the window glass up and out of the door
window slot, then tilt it and remove it from the
door.
7Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Rear door
8Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 1 to 5.
3-Series models
9Disengage the glass from the front guide
roller, and prise out the rubber window
guides.
10Remove the door handle screws, and
allow the handle assembly to hang out of the
way.
11Remove the rear window frame bolts,
push the frame into the door, and remove the
window glass.
12Refitting is the reverse of removal.
5-Series models
13Loosen the rear window guide mounting
bolt.14Detach the glass from the front guide
roller, disengage the glass from the guide
rails, then slide the glass to the rear and
remove by lifting from above.
15The fixed glass can be removed by
removing the guide rail bolts, then pulling the
rail down to the rear and detaching the glass.
16Refitting is the reverse of removal. The
rear window glass can be adjusted by
loosening the adjustment bolts, then raising
the glass to within one inch of the top of the
door opening. Adjust the glass-to-
opening gap evenly, then tighten the bolts
securely.
17 Door window regulator-
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Remove the door window glass (Sec-
tion 16).
2Remove the securing bolts or nuts, and lift
the window regulator assembly out of the
door (withdraw the regulator mechanism
through the access hole). On models with
electric windows, unplug the electrical
connector.
Refitting
3Refitting is the reverse of removal.
18 Exterior mirror-
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1If it is required to renew the mirror glass
only, insert a small screwdriver through the
hole in the bottom of the exterior mirror, and
carefully lever clockwise the plastic holder on
the rear of the glass (ie move the bottom of
the screwdriver to the right). This will release
the glass, which can then be withdrawn. If
electric mirrors are fitted, it will be necessary
to disconnect the wiring before completely
removing the glass.
2To remove the complete mirror, prise off
the cover panel (and/or the tweeter speaker,
where applicable).
3Unplug the electrical connector.
4Remove the retaining screws and lift the
mirror off
Refitting
5Refitting is the reverse of removal.
11•8 Bodywork and fittings
15.2 Typical door latch, lock cylinder and
handle details
14.14 Unscrewing the hinge mounting
bolts (5-Series)

Finding a short-circuit
One method of finding a short-circuit is to
remove the fuse and connect a test light or
voltmeter in its place. There should be no
voltage present in the circuit. Move the
electrical connectors from side-to-side while
watching the test light. If the bulb goes on,
there is a short to earth somewhere in that
area, probably where the insulation has been
rubbed through. The same test can be
performed on each component in a circuit,
even a switch.
Earth check
Perform a earth check to see whether a
component is properly earthed (passing
current back via the vehicle body). Disconnect
the battery, and connect one lead of a self-
powered test light (often known as a
continuity tester) to a known good earth.
Connect the other lead to the wire or earth
connection being tested. The bulb should
light, indicating a good earth connection. If
not, dismantle the connection, and clean all
relevant parts thoroughly. When re-making
the connection, use serrated (shakeproof)
washers if possible, and tighten all bolts, etc,
securely.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery, Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Continuity check
A continuity check determines if there are
any breaks in a circuit - if it is conducting
electricity properly. With the circuit off (no
power in the circuit), a self-powered continuity
tester can be used to check the circuit.
Connect the test leads to both ends of the
circuit, and if the test light comes on, the
circuit is passing current properly. If the light
doesn’t come on, there is a break somewhere
in the circuit. The same procedure can be
used to test a switch, by connecting the
continuity tester to the power-in and power-
out sides of the switch. With the switch turned
on, the test light should come on.
Finding an open-circuit
When diagnosing for possible open-
circuits, it is often difficult to locate them by
sight, because oxidation or terminal
misalignment are hidden by the connectors.
Intermittent problems are often caused by
oxidised or loose connections. Merely
wiggling an electrical connector may correct
the open-circuit condition, albeit temporarily.
Dismantle the connector, and spray with a
water-dispersant aerosol. On simpler
connectors, it may be possible to carefullybend the connector pins inside, to improve
the metal-to-metal contact - don’t damage
the connector in the process, however.
3 Fuses- general information
1
The electrical circuits of the vehicle are
protected by a combination of fuses and
circuit breakers. The fusebox is located in the
left corner of the engine compartment (see
illustration). On some later models, it is
located under the rear seat cushion.
Each of the fuses is designed to protect a
specific circuit, and on some models, the
various circuits are identified on the fuse
panel itself.
Miniaturised fuses are employed in the
fuseboxes. These compact fuses, with blade
terminal design, allow fingertip removal and
renewal. If an electrical component fails,
always check the fuse first. A blown fuse is
easily identified through the clear plastic
body. Visually inspect the element for
evidence of damage. If a continuity check is
called for, the blade terminal tips are exposed
in the fuse body.
Be sure to renew blown fuses with the
correct type. Fuses of different ratings are
physically interchangeable, but only fuses of
the proper rating should be used. Replacing a
fuse with one of a higher or lower value than
specified is not recommended. Each electrical
circuit needs a specific amount of protection.
The amperage value of each fuse is moulded
into the fuse body.
If the new fuse immediately fails, don’t
renew it again until the cause of the problem
is isolated and corrected. In most cases, the
cause will be a short-circuit in the wiring
caused by a broken or deteriorated wire.
4 Relays- general information
1
Several electrical accessories in the vehicle
use relays to transmit the electrical signal to
the component. If the relay is defective, thatcomponent will not operate properly. Relays
are electrically-operated switches, which are
often used in circuits drawing high levels of
current, or where more complex switching
arrangements are required.
The various relays are grouped together for
convenience in several locations under the
dash and in the engine compartment (see
accompanying illustration and illus-
tration 3.1).
If a faulty relay is suspected, it can be
removed and tested by a dealer or qualified
automotive electrician. No overhaul is
possible. Like fuses, defective relays must be
replaced with the correct type; some relays
look identical, but perform very different
functions.
5 Direction indicator/hazard
warning flasher unit- check
and renewal
2
Warning: Some later models are
equipped with an airbag or
Supplemental Restraint System
(SRS). To avoid possible damage
to this system, the manufacturer
recommends that, on airbag-equipped
models, the following procedure should be
left to a dealer service department, or
other specialist, because of the special
tools and techniques required. There is a
risk of injury if the airbag is accidentally
triggered.
1The direction indicator/hazard flasher unit is
a small canister- or box-shaped unit located
in the wiring harness on or near the steering
column. Access is gained by removing the
steering column shrouds (see illustration).
2When the flasher unit is functioning
properly, a regular clicking noise can be heard
from it when the indicators or hazard flashers
are switched on. If the direction indicators fail
on one side or the other, and the flasher unit
does not make its characteristic clicking
sound, a faulty direction indicator bulb is
indicated.
3If both direction indicators fail to blink, the
problem may be due to a blown fuse, a faulty
flasher unit, a broken switch or a loose or open
connection. If a quick check of the fusebox
12•2 Body electrical systems
4.2 Engine compartment relays3.1 The fusebox is located in the engine
compartment under a cover - the box also
includes several relays

8 Radio- removal and refitting
1
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery, Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2The radios on most models are held in place
by internal clips which are usually located at
the sides or corners of the unit faceplate.
Removal requires a special tool which is
inserted into the holes to release the clips so
the radio can be pulled out. These tools can be
fabricated from heavy wire, or are available
from your dealer or a car audio specialist. On
anti-theft radios, the clips are moved in and
out by internal screws which require another
type of tool. Insert the tool into the holes until
the clips release, then withdraw the radio from
the dash panel. Disconnect the wiring from the
radio and remove it.3On some models, the radio is held in place
by screws located beneath the faceplate. The
control knobs must be pulled off before the
faceplate can be withdrawn.
Refitting
4Refitting is the reverse of removal.
9 Aerial- removal and refitting
1
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery, Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2Use circlip pliers to unscrew the aerial
mounting nut.
3Open the boot lid/tailgate and remove the
left side trim panel. On some models, the jack
and tail light cluster cover will have to be
removed first.
4Unplug the aerial power and radio lead
connectors (as applicable), remove the
retaining bolts, and remove the aerial and
motor assembly.
Refitting
5Refitting is the reverse of removal.
10 Instrument cluster-
removal and refitting
2
Caution: The instrument cluster
and components are very
susceptible to damage from
static electricity. Make sure you
are earthed and have dischargedany static electricity (by touching an object
such as a metal water pipe) before
touching the cluster or components.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery, Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2As necessary, remove the steering column
shrouds and lower trim panel (see Chap-
ter 11).
3Remove the screws holding the cluster to
the facia (see illustration). Note the location
of the lower screws to ensure they are refitted
in the same place. On 3-Series models, the
length of the two lower inner screws must not
exceed 9.5 mm.
4Tilt the top of the cluster back, reach
behind it and detach the electrical connectors
by pressing on the levers, then lift the cluster
out of the facia opening (see illustration).
5For access to the cluster components,
release the catches or remove the screws,
and separate the two halves (see
illustration).
Refitting
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
11 Service Indicator (SI) board-
general information
All models that have service indicator lights
are equipped with a Service Indicator (SI)
board located in the instrument cluster. This
board turns the lights on at the proper mileage
intervals. The lights can only be turned off
using a special tool which plugs into the
engine check connector (see Chapter 1). The
12•4 Body electrical systems
10.5 Turn the plastic knobs to release the
back of the cluster (some models use
screws)10.4 Push on the levers to detach the
cluster electrical connectors10.3 Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove
the instrument cluster retaining screws
7.5 Insert a screwdriver into the openings
(arrowed) on each side of the switch to
release the clip while pulling out

SI board is a self-contained computer which
includes a chip and batteries.
The rechargeable SI board nickel cadmium
(nicad) batteries maintain power to the
computer memory in the event of a power
drop (such as during starting) or complete
power loss (such as a dead or disconnected
battery) (see illustration). This assures power
so the computer can continue to keep track of
mileage and turn the lights on at the proper
interval.
The batteries have a life of approximately
six years, at which time they must be replaced
with new ones. Also, since they are recharged
by the engine charging system, they can run
down prematurely if power is cut off for some
reason (such as a blown fuse, a fault in the
wiring, or extended storage of the vehicle).
Excessive heat or cold can also shorten
battery life, with heat the greatest enemy.
Extreme heat can cause the batteries to
actually split open, allowing acid to drip into
the instrument cluster.
Several instruments controlled by the SI
board can be affected by low or discharged
batteries. Symptoms of low or dead SI board
batteries can include inconsistent tachometer
and temperature gauge readings, background
radio noise, and the inability to turn the
service lights off with the special tool.
Although only complete SI boards are
available from the manufacturer, batteries are
available separately from aftermarket sources.
While it is possible for the home mechanic to
renew the batteries, they are soldered to the
board, so unless you are skilled at this and
have the proper tools, this job should be left
to an experienced electronics technician.
Considerable savings can be realised by
removing the instrument cluster (see
Section 10) and taking it to an electronics
specialist.
Caution: the instrument cluster
and components are very
susceptible to damage from
static electricity. Make sure you
are earthed and have discharged any
static electricity (by touching an object
such as a metal water pipe) before
touching the cluster components.12 Headlights- bulb renewal
1
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery, Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Sealed-beam type
2Remove the grille (see Chapter 11).
3Remove the headlight retainer screws,
taking care not to disturb the adjustment
screws.
4Remove the retainer and pull the headlight
out enough to allow the connector to be
unplugged.
5Remove the headlight.
6To refit the headlight, plug the connector in,
place the headlight in position, and refit the
retainer and screws. Tighten the screws
securely.7Refit the grille. Connect the battery negative
cable.
Halogen bulb type
Warning: Halogen gas-filled bulbs
are under pressure, and may
shatter if the surface is scratched
or the bulb is dropped. Wear eye
protection, and handle the bulbs carefully,
grasping only the base whenever possible.
Do not touch the surface of the bulb with
your fingers, because the oil from your
skin could cause it to overheat and fail
prematurely.
8From behind the headlight assembly,
remove the outer cover (see illustration).
9Twist and release the inner cover from the
rear of the headlight (see illustration).
10Disconnect the wire from the rear of the
headlight bulb (see illustration).
11Release the clips, and withdraw the bulb
from the headlight unit (see illustration).
12Fit the new bulb using a reversal of the
removal procedure. Make sure that the clips
engage the bulb correctly.
13Connect the battery negative cable.
Body electrical systems 12•5
12.9 Twist and release the headlight inner
cover12.8 Removing the headlight rear outer
cover (3-Series shown)11.2 These batteries (arrowed) power the
Service Indicator (SI) board
12.11 Removing the headlight bulb (do not
touch the surface of the bulb with your
fingers)12.10 Disconnecting the wire from the rear
of the headlight bulb
12
If you do touch the headlamp
bulb surface, clean it with
methylated spirit.

REF•8General Repair Procedures
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components,
observe the following procedures and
instructions. This will assist in carrying out the
operation efficiently and to a professional
standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that
this method may not be suitable where
dowels are used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, a new one must be
fitted on reassembly; fit it dry unless otherwise
stated in the repair procedure. Make sure that
the mating faces are clean and dry, with all
traces of old gasket removed. When cleaning a
joint face, use a tool which is unlikely to score
or damage the face, and remove any burrs or
nicks with an oilstone or fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers or
some similar device in order to pull the seal free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original
sealing surface of the component cannot be
restored, and the manufacturer has not made
provision for slight relocation of the seal
relative to the sealing surface, the component
should be renewed.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing isunshouldered, the seal should be fitted with
its face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a stud extractor. Always ensure that a
blind tapped hole is completely free from oil,
grease, water or other fluid before installing
the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could cause
the housing to crack due to the hydraulic
action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken
the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated
in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably
cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench
settings are no longer specified for the latter
stages of tightening, “angle-tightening” being
called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque
wrench setting will be applied to the
bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed
by one or more stages of tightening through
specified angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing during tightening
should always have a washer between it and
the relevant component or housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose theireffectiveness after long periods of use, and
should then be renewed as a matter of course.
Split pins must always be replaced with
new ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found
on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring com-
pressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the manu-
facturer’s special tools are described, and are
shown in use. In some instances, where no
alternative is possible, it has been necessary
to resort to the use of a manufacturer’s tool,
and this has been done for reasons of safety
as well as the efficient completion of the repair
operation. Unless you are highly-skilled and
have a thorough understanding of the
procedures described, never attempt to
bypass the use of any special tool when the
procedure described specifies its use. Not
only is there a very great risk of personal
injury, but expensive damage could be
caused to the components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department, or the
National Rivers Authority, for further advice.
With the universal tightening-up of legis-
lation regarding the emission of environmen-
tally-harmful substances from motor vehicles,
most vehicles have tamperproof devices fitted
to the main adjustment points of the fuel
system. These devices are primarily designed
to prevent unqualified persons from adjusting
the fuel/air mixture, with the chance of a
consequent increase in toxic emissions. If
such devices are found during servicing or
overhaul, they should, wherever possible, be
renewed or refitted in accordance with the
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling
bank, call this
number free.