1988 OPEL CALIBRA four wheel drive

HEI (High Energy Ignition)
system
5This comprises of a breakerless distributor
and an electronic switching/amplifier module
along with the coil and spark plugs.
6The electrical impulse that is required to
switch off the low tension circuit is generated
by a magnetic trigger coil in the distributor. A
trigger wheel rotates within a magnetic stator,
the magnetic field being provided by a
permanent magnet. The magnetic field across
the two poles (stator arm and trigger wheel) is
dependent on the air gap between the two
poles. When the air gap is at its minimum, the
trigger wheel arm is directly opposite the
stator arm, and this is the trigger point. As the
magnetic flux between the stator arm and
trigger wheel varies, a voltage is induced in the
trigger coil mounted below the trigger wheel.
This voltage is sensed and then amplified by
the electronic module, and used to switch off
the low tension circuit. There is one trigger arm
and one stator arm for each cylinder.
7The ignition advance is a function of the
distributor, and is controlled both
mechanically and by a vacuum-operated
system. The mechanical governor mechanism
consists of two weights that move out from
the distributor shaft due to centrifugal force as
the engine speed rises. As the weights move
outwards, they rotate the trigger wheel
relative to the distributor shaft and so
advance the spark. The weights are held in
position by two light springs, and it is the
tension of the springs that is largely
responsible for correct spark advancement.
8The vacuum control consists of a
diaphragm, one side of which is connected by
way of a small-bore hose to the carburettor,
and the other side to the distributor.
Depression in the inlet manifold and
carburettor, which varies with engine speed
and throttle position, causes the diaphragm to
move, so moving the baseplate and
advancing or retarding the spark. A fine
degree of control is achieved by a spring in
the diaphragm assembly.
MSTS-i (Microprocessor-
controlled Spark Timing System)
9This system comprises a “Hall-effect”
distributor (or a crankshaft speed/position
sensor on X 16 SZ models), a manifold pressure
sensor, an oil temperature sensor, and a
module, along with the coil and spark plugs.
10On 1.6 litre models, the electrical impulse
that is required to switch off the low tension
circuit is generated by a sensor in the
distributor. A trigger vane rotates in the gap
between a permanent magnet and the sensor.
The trigger vane has four cut-outs, one for
each cylinder. When one of the trigger vane
cut-outs is in line with the sensor, magnetic
flux can pass between the magnet and the
sensor. When a trigger vane segment is in line
with the sensor, the magnetic flux is diverted
through the trigger vane away from thesensor. The sensor senses the change in
magnetic flux, and sends an impulse to the
MSTS-i module, which switches off the low
tension circuit.
11On 1.8 litre models, the electrical impulse
that is required to switch off the low tension
circuit is generated by a crankshaft
speed/position sensor, which is activated by a
toothed wheel on the crankshaft. The toothed
wheel has 35 equally spaced teeth, with a gap
in the 36th position. The gap is used by the
sensor to determine the crankshaft position
relative to TDC (top dead centre) of No 1 piston.
12Engine load information is supplied to the
MSTS-i module by a pressure sensor, which
is connected to the carburettor by a vacuum
pipe. Additional information is supplied by an
oil temperature sensor. The module selects
the optimum ignition advance setting based
on the information received from the sensors.
The degree of advance can thus be constantly
varied to suit the prevailing engine conditions.
Multec, with MSTS-i
13The ignition system is fully electronic in
operation and incorporates the Electronic
Control Unit (ECU) mounted in the driver’s
footwell. A distributor (driven off the camshaft
left-hand end and incorporating the amplifier
module) as well as the octane coding plug,
the spark plugs, HT leads, ignition HT coil and
associated wiring.
14The ECU controls both the ignition system
and the fuel injection system, integrating the
two in a complete engine management
system. Refer to Chapters 4B and 4C for
further information that is not detailed here.
15For ignition the ECU receives information
in the form of electrical impulses or signals
from the distributor (giving it the engine speed
and crankshaft position), from the coolant
temperature sensor (giving it the engine
temperature) and from the manifold absolute
pressure sensor (giving it the load on the
engine). In addition, the ECU receives input
from the octane coding plug (to provide
ignition timing appropriate to the grade of fuel
used) and from, where fitted, the automatic
transmission control unit (to smooth gear
changing by retarding the ignition as changes
are made).
16All these signals are compared by the
ECU with set values pre-programmed
(mapped) into its memory. Considering this
information, the ECU selects the ignition
timing appropriate to those values and
controls the ignition HT coil by way of the
amplifier module accordingly.
17The system is so sensitive that, at idle
speed, the ignition timing may be constantly
changing; this should be remembered if trying
to check the ignition timing.
18The system fitted to C18 NZ models, is
similar to that described above, except that
the amplifier module is separate. The ECU
determines engine speed and crankshaft
position using a sensor mounted in the
right-hand front end of the engine’s cylinderblock; this registers with a 58-toothed disc
mounted on the crankshaft so that the gap left
by the missing two teeth provides a reference
point, so enabling the ECU to recognise TDC.
19Note that this simplifies the distributor’s
function, which is merely to distribute the HT
pulse to the appropriate spark plug; it has no
effect whatsoever on the ignition timing.
DIS (Direct Ignition System)
20On all X16 SZ engines, and on C20 XE
(DOHC) engines from 1993-on, a DIS (Direct
Ignition System) module is used in place of
the distributor and coil. On the X16 SZ engine
the DIS module is attached to the camshaft
housing in the position normally occupied by
the distributor. On the C20 XE engine, a
camshaft phase sensor is attached to the
cylinder head at the non-driven end of the
exhaust camshaft, in the position normally
occupied by the distributor. The DIS module
is attached, by a bracket, to the cylinder head
at the non-driven end of the inlet camshaft.
21The DIS module consists of two ignition
coils and an electronic control module housed
in a cast casing. Each ignition coil supplies
two spark plugs with HT voltage. One spark is
provided in a cylinder with its piston on the
compression stroke, and one spark is
provided to a cylinder with its piston on the
exhaust stroke. This means that a “wasted
spark” is supplied to one cylinder during each
ignition cycle, but this has no detrimental
effect. This system has the advantage that
there are no moving parts (therefore there is
no wear), and the system is largely
maintenance-free.
Motronic M4.1 and M1.5
22This system controls both the ignition and
the fuel injection systems.
23The Motronic module receives information
from a crankshaft speed/position sensor, an
engine coolant temperature sensor mounted
in the thermostat housing. A throttle position
sensor, an airflow meter, and on models fitted
with a catalytic converter, an oxygen sensor
mounted in the exhaust system (Chapter 4C).
24The module provides outputs to control
the fuel pump, fuel injectors, idle speed and
ignition circuit. Using the inputs from the
various sensors, the module computes the
optimum ignition advance, and fuel injector
pulse duration, to suit the prevailing engine
conditions. This system gives very accurate
control of the engine under all conditions,
improving fuel consumption and driveability,
and reducing exhaust gas emissions.
25Further details of the fuel injection system
components are given in Chapter 4B.
Motronic M2.5 and M2.8
26The system is similar to that described for
SOHC models, with the following differences.
27Along with the crankshaft speed/position
sensor, a “Hall-effect” distributor is used
(similar to that described in this Section, with
the MSTS-i system).
Engine electrical systems 5•3
5

37Facia panels - removal and
refitting
3
Footwell trim panels
Removal
1The lower footwell trim panels on the
driver’s and passenger sides are secured by
turnbuckle type plastic clips.2To remove a panel, use a screwdriver to
turn the heads of the clips through 90°(see
illustration), then withdraw the panel from the
facia.
Refitting
3Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Driver’s side lower facia panel
Removal
4Open the flap covering the fusebox to
expose the four lower facia panel securing
screws.
5Remove the four screws, then lower the
panel and pull it towards the driver’s door to
release the two securing clips. Withdraw the
panel from the facia (see illustrations).
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Steering column shrouds
Removal
7On models with an adjustable tilt steering
column, move the column to its fully raised
position, then unscrew the adjuster lever (see
illustration).
8Turn the steering wheel as necessary to
expose one of the front steering column
shroud securing screw covers.
9Prise out the cover, and remove the column
shroud securing screw, then turn the steering
wheel to enable the remaining cover and
screw to be removed (see illustrations).
10Remove the three securing screws from
the underside of the lower column shroud,
then remove the lower and upper shrouds
(see illustrations).
11•16Bodywork and fittings
37.2 Releasing a footwell trim panel
securing clip37.5B . . . then withdraw the lower facia
panel
37.10C . . . and upper shrouds (steering
wheel removed)37.10B . . . then remove the lower . . .37.10A Remove the three lower column
shroud securing screws . . .
37.9B . . . then remove the front column
shroud securing screws37.9A Prise out the covers . . .37.7 Removing the column adjuster lever
37.5A Remove the four securing screws
from the fusebox aperture . . .
Before removing any of the
facia panels, the battery
negative lead should be
disconnected, as several
permanently live feed wires are routed
behind the facia.

5If any one of the shoes has worn below the
specified limit, all four handbrake shoes must
be renewed as a set, as follows.
SOHC models
Removal
6Clean the dust and dirt from the various
components, but take care not to inhale it.
7Disconnect the handbrake cable and the
return spring from the handbrake operating
lever at the brake backplate. If necessary,
slacken the handbrake cable adjustment, with
reference to Section 26.
8Remove the shoe hold-down pins, springs
and cups by depressing the cups and turning
them through 90°using a pair of pliers. Note
that the hold-down pins are removed through
the rear of the brake backplate.
9The shoes, adjuster, handbrake operating
lever and return springs can now be removed
together as an assembly.
10Note the position and orientation of all
components, then unhook the upper and
lower return springs from the shoes, and
recover the handbrake operating lever and the
adjuster.
Refitting
11Apply a little brake grease to the threads
of the adjuster, then screw it together to its
minimum length. Also apply a little brake
grease to the shoe rubbing areas on the
lockplate.
12Fit one of the new brake shoes, and
secure it to the backplate with the hold-down
pin, spring and cup.
13Fit the handbrake operating lever in
position.
14Fit the remaining brake shoe, and secure
with the hold-down pin, spring and cup.
15Hook the upper return spring onto the
shoes.
16Fit the adjuster between the lower ends of
the shoes, as noted before dismantling, then
fit the lower return spring (see illustrations).
17Reconnect the handbrake cable and the
return spring to the handbrake operating
lever.
18Refit the hub/disc, and adjust the wheel
bearing play, as described in Chapter 10, but
do not refit the roadwheel at this stage.
19Repeat the operations on the remaining
side of the vehicle.20Check the handbrake cable adjustment,
as described in Section 26.
21Refit the roadwheels and lower the vehicle
to the ground. Do not fully tighten the
roadwheel bolts until the vehicle is resting on
its wheels.
DOHC models
Removal
22Proceed as described in paragraphs 6
and 7.
23Remove the shoe hold-down pins, springs
and cups by turning the cups through using a
screwdriver. Note that the hold-down pins are
removed through the rear of the brake
backplate. Note also the position and
orientation of all components, then unhook
the upper and lower return springs from the
shoes, and recover the handbrake operating
lever and the adjuster.
Refitting
24Proceed as described in paragraphs 11 to
14 inclusive.
25Hook the lower return spring onto the
shoes.
26Fit the adjuster between the upper ends of
the shoes, as noted before dismantling, then
fit the upper return spring (see illustration).
27Reconnect the handbrake cable and the
return spring to the handbrake operating
lever.
28Refit the brake disc as described in
Section 10, but do not refit the roadwheel at
this stage.
29Proceed as described in paragraphs 19
to 21 inclusive.
8Front disc caliper - removal,
overhaul and refitting
3
Note: Refer to the note at the beginning of
Section 3 before proceeding. Before
dismantling a caliper, check that replacement
parts can be obtained, and retain the old
components to compare them with the new
ones. New sealing rings must be used on the
fluid hose union bolt on refitting
Models with solid discs
Removal
1Where applicable, remove the wheel trims,
then loosen the relevant front roadwheel bolts
and apply the handbrake. Jack up the front of
the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
Remove the roadwheel.
2Remove the brake disc pads, as described
in Section 4.
3Working under the bonnet, remove the
brake fluid reservoir cap, and secure a piece
of polythene over the filler neck with a rubber
band, or by refitting the cap. This will reduce
the loss of fluid during the following
procedure.
4Unscrew the brake fluid hose union bolt
from the rear of the caliper, and disconnect
the hose. Recover the two sealing rings from
the union bolt (one either side of the hose end
fitting). Be prepared for fluid spillage, and plug
the open ends to prevent dirt ingress and
further fluid loss.
5Prise out the two caliper bracket mounting
bolt dust caps from the inboard edge of the
caliper bracket, then using an Allen key or
hexagon bit, unscrew the mounting bolts, and
withdraw the caliper assembly from the
vehicle.
Overhaul
6If desired, the caliper can be overhauled as
follows. Otherwise, go on to paragraph 24 for
details of refitting.
7Brush the dirt and dust from the caliper, but
take care not to inhale it.
8Mount the caliper bracket in a soft-jawed
vice. Then separate the caliper body from the
mounting bracket by pressing the front face of
the caliper body downwards and simultane-
ously sliding the caliper body from the
locating pins on the bracket. Recover the
guide springs from the bracket, noting their
orientation.
9Using a screwdriver, prise the dust seal
retaining clip from the piston dust seal, then
carefully prise off the dust seal.
10Place a thin piece of wood in front of the
piston to prevent it from falling out of its bore
and sustaining damage. Then apply low air
pressure - e.g. from a foot pump - to the
hydraulic fluid union hole in the rear of the
caliper body, to eject the piston from its bore.
9•8Braking system
7.16A Fitting the lower shoe return spring
- SOHC models
7.26 Handbrake shoe adjuster and upper
return spring correctly fitted - DOHC models
7.16B Handbrake shoe components
correctly assembled - SOHC models

13If the pistons and bores are in good
condition, discard the seals and obtain a
repair kit, which will contain all the necessary
renewable items. Later models (1992-on), are
fitted with L-shaped piston seals (see
illustrations). Ensure that the correct repair
kit is obtained when overhauling a wheel
cylinder, as the early and later components
are not interchangeable.
14Lubricate the piston seals with clean
brake fluid, and insert them into the cylinder
bores with the spring between them, using
finger pressure only.
15Dip the pistons in clean brake fluid, and
insert them into the cylinder bores.
16Fit the dust seals, and check that the
pistons can move freely in their bores.
Refitting
17Refit the wheel cylinder to the backplate,
and tighten the securing bolts.
18Reconnect the brake fluid pipe to the
cylinder, and tighten the union nut.
19Push the brake shoes against the pistons,
then refit the upper return spring as noted
before removal.
20Refit the brake drum and tighten the
securing screw. If necessary, back off the
adjuster wheel until the drum will pass over
the shoes.
21Remove the polythene from the brake
fluid reservoir filler neck, and bleed the
relevant brake hydraulic circuit, as described
in Section 3.
22Adjust the brakes by operating the
footbrake a number of times. A clicking noise
will be heard at the drum as the automatic
adjuster operates. When the clicking stops,
adjustment is complete.
23Refit the roadwheel and lower the vehicle
to the ground. Do not fully tighten the
roadwheel bolts until the vehicle is resting on
its wheels.
13Rear brake backplate -
removal and refitting
3
Models with rear drum brakes
Removal
1Where applicable, remove the wheel trim,
then loosen the relevant rear roadwheel bolts
and chock the front wheels. Jack up the rear
of the vehicle, and support on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
Remove the roadwheel.
2Remove the brake drum with reference to
Section 11.
3Remove the rear hub, (Chapter 10).
4Remove the brake shoes, (Section 6).
5Remove the brake wheel cylinder, as
described in Section 12.
6Using a screwdriver, prise out the lockplate
that secures the handbrake cable in the
backplate.
7Unscrew the four securing bolts, and
withdraw the stub axle and backplate.
Refitting
8Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
9Coat the rear face of the stub axle flange
with a little lithium-based grease.
10Tighten the brake backplate/stub axle
securing bolts to the specified torque, in the
three stages given in the Specifications.
11Refit the brake wheel cylinder, as
described in Section 12.
12Refit the brake shoes, as described in
Section 6.
13Refit the rear hub, as described in
Chapter 10.
14Refit the brake drum with reference to
Section 11.
15Before refitting the roadwheel and
lowering the vehicle to the ground, check and
if necessary adjust the handbrake, as
described in Section 26.
Models with rear disc brakes
(SOHC models)
Removal
16Proceed as described in paragraphs 1
to 7.
17Remove the rear hub/disc, (Chapter 10).
18Remove the handbrake shoes, (Section 7).
19Unscrew the four securing bolts, and
withdraw the stub axle and lockplate.
Refitting
20Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
21Coat the rear face of the stub axle flange
with a little lithium-based grease.
22Tighten the brake backplate/stub axle
securing bolts to the specified torque, in the
three stages given in the Specifications.
23Refit the handbrake shoes, as described
in Section 7.
24Refit the rear hub/disc, (Chapter 10).
25Before refitting the roadwheel and
lowering the vehicle to the ground, check and
if necessary adjust the handbrake, as
described in Section 26.
DOHC models
Removal
26Proceed as described in paragraphs 1
to 7.
27Remove the brake disc (Section 10).
28Remove the rear hub, (Chapter 10).
29Remove the handbrake shoes, (Section 7).
30Using a splined key, unscrew the four
securing bolts and withdraw the backplate.
Refitting
31Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
32Refit the handbrake shoes, (Section 7).
33Refit the rear hub, (Chapter 10).
34Refit the brake disc (Section 10).
35Before refitting the roadwheel and
lowering the vehicle to the ground, check and
if necessary adjust the handbrake, as
described in Section 26.
9•12Braking system
12.13A Exploded view of a rear brake
wheel cylinder
1 Dust cap
2 Bleed screw
3 Cylinder body
4 Dust seal5 Piston
6 Piston seal
7 Spring
12.13B Modified rear wheel cylinders - 1992-on models

5Loosen the adjuster nut until the wheels are
just free to turn.
6The handbrake must start to operate with
the lever on the second notch of the ratchet.
7On completion of adjustment, check the
handbrake cables for free movement, and
apply a little grease to the adjuster threads to
prevent corrosion.
8Lower the vehicle to the ground.
Models with rear disc brakes
9Where applicable, remove the wheel trims,
then loosen the rear roadwheel bolts and
chock the front wheels. Jack up the rear of the
vehicle, and support securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
Remove the roadwheels.
10Pull the handbrake lever as far as the
second notch on the ratchet.
11On DOHC models fitted with a catalytic
converter, unscrew the four securing nuts and
withdraw the exhaust centre box heat shield
by carefully sliding it round the centre box.
12On all SOHC models, loosen the knurled
nut on the cable adjuster (mounted on the
torsion beam).
13On DOHC models, loosen the nut
securing the cable equaliser yoke to the
handbrake lever operating rod.
14Using a screwdriver inserted through the
adjuster hole in one of the discs/hubs (see
illustration), turn the adjuster wheel until the
brake shoes can just be heard to rub when the
disc/hub is turned by hand in the normal
direction of rotation.
15Turn the adjuster wheel back until the
disc/hub is just free to turn.
16Repeat paragraphs 14 and 15 on the
remaining side of the vehicle.
17Tighten the nut on the cable adjuster or
the equaliser, as applicable, until the brakeshoes just begin to operate. Check that the
shoes operate equally on both wheels.
18Fully release the handbrake, then apply it
again.
19The discs/hubs must lock when the
handbrake lever reaches the sixth notch on
the ratchet. If necessary, turn the nut on the
cable adjuster or equaliser, as applicable, to
achieve this.
20Where applicable, refit the exhaust heat
shield.
21Refit the roadwheels and lower the vehicle
to the ground. Do not fully tighten the
roadwheel bolts until the vehicle is resting on
its wheels.
27Handbrake cable - removal
and refitting
3
Models with rear drum brakes
Removal
1The handbrake cable is in two sections. The
longer section runs from the handbrake
operating rod, through the adjuster, to the
right-hand brake assembly. The shorter
section runs from the adjuster to the left-hand
brake assembly. The two sections of the cable
can be renewed independently.
2Where applicable, remove the wheel trim(s),
then loosen the relevant rear roadwheel bolts.
Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of the
vehicle, and support securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
Remove the roadwheel(s).
3Note the routing of the handbrake cable(s),
as an aid to refitting.
4Remove the relevant brake drum(s), with
reference to Section 11.
Longer cable
Removal
5Note the length of exposed thread at the
handbrake cable adjuster on the torsion
beam, then unscrew the adjuster nut from the
threaded rod.
6Disconnect the cable from the handbrake
lever operating rod on the vehicle underbody
(see illustration).
7Detach the cable from the guides on the
underbody. Note that the cable can be fed
through certain guides, but in some cases, the
guide brackets must be bent away from the
underbody to allow the cable to be withdrawn.
8Detach the cable from the adjuster on the
torsion beam.
9Unhook the cable end from the lever on the
brake shoe, then using a screwdriver, prise
out the lockplate that secures the handbrake
cable in the backplate.
10Withdraw the cable from the vehicle,
releasing it from the guide on the torsion
beam.
Refitting
11Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
12Screw the adjuster nut onto the threaded
rod to the position noted before removal.
13Ensure that the handbrake cable is routed
as noted before removal.
14Refit the brake drum, (Section 11).
15Before refitting the roadwheel(s) and
lowering the vehicle to the ground, adjust the
handbrake, as described in Section 26.
Shorter cable
Removal
16Note the length of exposed thread at the
handbrake cable adjuster on the torsion
beam, then unscrew the adjuster nut from the
threaded rod. Continue as described in
paragraphs 8 to 10.
Braking system 9•19
27.6 Handbrake cable connection to handbrake lever operating
rod
1 Handbrake cable
2 Connecting link3 Handbrake lever operating rod26.14 Using a screwdriver to turn the handbrake adjuster wheel -
model with rear disc brakes
9

Refitting
17Proceed as described in paragraphs 11
to 15 inclusive.
Models with rear disc brakes
(SOHC)
General
18The procedure is as described for models
with rear drum brakes, remembering the
following points.
19Ignore the references to removal and
refitting of the brake drum.
20Note that there is no lockplate securing
the handbrake cable to the brake backplate,
but the return spring must be unhooked from
the cable end.
21On models with a catalytic converter,
when removing the longer cable, unscrew the
four securing nuts and withdraw the exhaust
centre box heat shield by carefully sliding it
round the centre box.
DOHC models
Removal
22The left and right-hand handbrake cables,
and the equaliser yoke, are removed as an
assembly on DOHC models.
23Loosen the rear roadwheel bolts, then
chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of the
vehicle, and support securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
Remove the roadwheels.
24Note the routing of the handbrake cables,
as an aid to refitting.
25On models with a catalytic converter,
unscrew the four securing nuts and withdraw
the exhaust centre box heat shield by
carefully sliding it round the centre box.
26Note the length of exposed thread at the
cable equaliser yoke, then unscrew the
securing nut and disconnect the equaliser
yoke from the handbrake lever operating rod.
27Unhook the cable ends from the brake
shoe operating levers and the return springs
(see illustration).
28Detach the cable from the guides on the
underbody and the semi-trailing arms. Note
that the cables can be fed through certainguides, but in some cases, the guide brackets
may have to be bent away from the
underbody to allow the cables to be
withdrawn.
29Withdraw the cables and equaliser
assembly from the vehicle.
Refitting
30Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
31Use a new self-locking nut to secure the
equaliser yoke to the handbrake lever
operating rod, and screw the nut onto the rod
to the position noted before removal.
32Ensure that the cables are routed as
noted before removal.
33Before refitting the roadwheels and
lowering the vehicle to the ground, adjust the
handbrake, as described in Section 26.
28Handbrake lever - removal
and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Jack up the vehicle, and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned securely under the body side
members.
3On models with a catalytic converter,
unscrew the four securing nuts and withdraw
the exhaust centre box heat shield by
carefully sliding it round the centre box.
4On all SOHC models, note the length of
exposed thread at the handbrake cable adjuster
on the torsion beam, then slacken the adjuster
to enable the cable to be disconnected from the
handbrake lever operating rod. Disconnect the
cable from the operating rod and slide the
rubber sealing grommet from the underbody
and operating rod.
5On DOHC models, note the length of
exposed thread at the handbrake cable
equaliser yoke, then unscrew the securing nut
and disconnect the equaliser yoke from the
handbrake lever operating rod. Slide the
rubber sealing grommet from the underbody
and operating rod.
6Remove the front passenger seat, as
described in Chapter 11.7Remove the rear section of the centre
console, as described in Chapter 11.
8Access to the handbrake lever-to-floor
mounting bolts is provided by slits in the
carpet. If no slits are provided, either carefully
cut some, or release and fold back the carpet.
9Unscrew the mounting bolts, and withdraw
the handbrake lever sufficiently to disconnect
the handbrake “on” warning lamp switch
wiring (see illustration).
10Disconnect the wiring and withdraw the
handbrake lever and operating rod from the
vehicle.
11A worn ratchet segment can be renewed
by driving the securing sleeve from the
handbrake lever, using a metal rod or a bolt of
similar diameter (see illustration).
12Drive the new sleeve supplied with the
new segment into the lever to permit a little
play between the segment and lever.
13If desired, a new pawl can be fitted if the
original pivot rivet is drilled out (see
illustration).
14Rivet the new pawl so that the pawl is still
free to move.
15The handbrake “on” warning lamp switch
can be removed from the lever assembly after
unscrewing the securing bolt.
Refitting
16Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
17Refit the rear section of the centre
console, as described in Chapter 11.
18Refit the front passenger seat, as
described in Chapter 11.
9•20Braking system
28.13 Drilling out the handbrake lever pawl
pivot pin
28.11 Driving out the handbrake lever
ratchet segment securing sleeve28.9 Handbrake lever securing bolts
(arrowed)27.27 Handbrake cable end fitting at brake
shoe - DOHC model
1 Operating lever
2 Cable bracket on semi-trailing arm

Torque wrench settings (continued)Nmlbf ft
Starter to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4533
Starter support to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Temperature regulator plug (M20) * . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3022
Timing belt cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
Timing belt drive gear to crankshaft: *
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250184
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle tighten by between 40°and 50°
Timing belt guide roller bracket to block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Timing belt guide roller to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Timing belt guide roller to cylinder block:
Engines up to 1993
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle tighten by 45°
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Angle tighten by 15°
1993-on engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Transfer box bracket to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6044
Transmission to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6044
1General
This part of Chapter 2 describes
procedures that are specific to the DOHC
engine. It should be read in conjunction with
Part A.
The lower engine is basically the same as
the 2.0 litre SOHC. However the pistons are
attached to the connecting rods by gudgeon
pins, which are fully floating, and are secured
by circlips.
Both camshafts on these engines are driven
from the crankshaft by one toothed
composite rubber belt. Each cylinder has four
valves (two inlet and two exhaust), operated
directly from the camshafts by hydraulic
self-adjusting valve lifters. One camshaft
operates the inlet valves, and the other
operates the exhaust valves.
DOHC models are fitted with a remotely
mounted oil cooler.
The distributor is driven directly from the
exhaust camshaft.
2Engine - removal and refitting
4
Removal
1Carry out procedure in Chapter 2A, noting
the following differences.
2With the car safely raised, remove the
engine undershield.
3The fuel hoses need to be disconnected
from the fuel rail.
4Disconnect coolant hoses from the cylinder
block and cylinder head. Also disconnect the
oil cooler pipe unions from the oil pump.
5Unbolt the right-hand driveshaft centre
bearing support bracket from the rear of the
cylinder block.
Refitting
6Refitting the engine is similar to theprocedure in Chapter 2A. The exceptions
being, replacement of the right-hand
driveshaft centre bearing support bracket at
the rear of the cylinder block and retightening
the securing bolts.
7Replace the undershield.
3Engine/transmission
mountings- renewal
3
The procedure for replacing the engine/
transmission is similar to SOHC models, see
Chapter 2A. However this engine is fitted with
an undershield that needs to be removed
before replacing the mounts. Do not forget to
replace the undershield before lowering the
car.
4Timing belt, sprockets and belt
tensioner and idler pulleys-
removal, refitting and adjustment
3
Note: The timing belt should be renewed on
refitting. A two-legged puller may be required
to remove the crankshaft sprocket
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.2Disconnect the air cleaner trunking from the
airflow meter, then remove the cover and the
air cleaner element from the air cleaner. If
desired, for improved access, the complete
air cleaner assembly can be removed, as
described in Chapter 4B.
3Remove the power steering pump drivebelt,
as described in Chapter 10.
4Remove the alternator drivebelt, as
described in Chapter 5.
5Remove the three securing screws, and
withdraw the outer timing belt cover. Recover
the rubber grommets from the screw holes in
the cover if they are loose.
6Turn the crankshaft using a Torx socket on
the crankshaft sprocket bolt, until the timing
marks on the camshaft sprockets are aligned
with the notches in the camshaft cover. The
notch in the crankshaft pulley should also be
aligned with the pointer on the rear timing belt
cover (see illustrations).
7Extract the six securing bolts using a
splined bit, and withdraw the crankshaft
pulley (see illustration). If necessary,
counterhold the crankshaft using a socket on
the crankshaft sprocket bolt. If the engine is in
the vehicle, the crankshaft can be prevented
from turning by having an assistant engage
first gear and depress the brake pedal.
Alternatively, the flywheel ring gear teeth can
be jammed using a large screwdriver or
similar tool. Before removing the pulley, check
that the timing marks are still aligned.
DOHC engine procedures 2B•3
4.6B . . .and notch in crankshaft pulley
aligned with pointer on rear timing belt
cover (circled)4.6A Camshaft sprocket TDC mark
aligned with notch in camshaft cover
2B

2A
General
Type
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line, water-cooled, transversely mounted at front of
vehicle. Single belt-driven overhead camshaft, acting on hydraulic
valve lifters
Manufacturer’s engine codes:
14 NV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.4 litre (1389 cc)
16 SV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6 litre (1598 cc)
X16 SZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6 litre (1598 cc) ‘Ecotec’ type engine
C16 NZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6 litre (1598 cc) + catalyst
C16 NZ2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6 litre (1598 cc) + catalyst
18 SV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 litre (1796 cc)
C18 NZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 litre (1796 cc) + catalyst
20 NE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litre (1998 cc)
20 SEH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litre (1998 cc) + early SRi
C20 NE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litre (1998 cc) + catalyst
Pistons:Bore (mm) Stroke (mm)
14 NV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.6 73.4
16 SV, C16 SV, C16 NZ and X16 SZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.0 81.5
C16 NZ2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.0 79.5
18 SV and C18 NZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.8 79.5
20 NE, 20 SEH and C20 NE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.0 86.0
Chapter 2 Part A:
SOHC engine procedures
Camshaft front oil seal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Camshaft housing and camshaft - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Camshaft housing and camshaft - dismantling, inspection and
reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Camshaft rear oil seal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Camshafts, “undersize” C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre engines -
general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Compression test - description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Crankcase ventilation system - description and maintenance . . . . . . .2
Crankshaft and bearings - examination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Crankshaft and bearings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Cylinder block and bores - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . .36
Cylinder head - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Cylinder head - inspection and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . .20
Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine removed) . . . . . . . . . . .21
Engine - removal and refitting (leaving transmission in car) . . . . . . . . .7
Engine and transmission mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Engine and transmission - removal, separation, reconnection and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Engine oil and filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1Engine dismantling and reassembly - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Examination and renovation - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Flexplate (automatic transmission) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .26
Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Hydraulic valve lifters - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Initial start-up after major overhaul or repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . . . .4
Major operations requiring engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Method of engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Pistons and connecting rods - examination and renovation . . . . . . .33
Pistons and connecting rods - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Timing belt and sprockets (without automatic tensioner) - removal,
refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Timing belt and tensioner 1.4 and 1.6 models (not C16 NZ2) - removal,
refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Timing belt and tensioner C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre - removal, refitting
and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Timing belt cover aperture, 1.4 and 1.6 models - general . . . . . . . . .13
2A•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321