1987 NISSAN PULSAR open bonnet

42 Engine
The cylinder block is a cast iron alloy, deep skirt
design and the crankshaft is supported in the cylinder
block by five precision insert replaceable main bear-
ings. Crankshaft end float is controlled by the flanged
centre main bearing. Connecting rods are I section
forgings equipped with precision insert replaceable big
end bearings. The gudgeon pins are an interference fit
in the connecting rod and a floating fit in the piston.

The cast aluminum pistons are equipped with
two compression rings and one oil control ring.

The twin rotor, involute gear oil pump is mounted
directly to the front face of the cylinder block. The
inner rotor is internally driven by the crankshaft. The
oil pump pressure relief valve is not adjustable, and
consists of a plunger and spring mounted in the oil
pump body.

The pump draws oil through a screen in the sump
and delivers it, via a full flow replaceable oil filter, to
the oil gallery from where it is distributed to the
hydraulic tappets, camshaft and crankshaft bearings
and to the overhead rocker and valve mechanism.

3. ENGINE AND TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY
Special Equipment Required:
To Remove and Instill — Suitable lifting tackle,
extra long chassis stands, suitable trolley

TO REMOVE
NOTE: Due to the high residual pressure
within the fuel system, it will be necessary to
depressurize the system before removing any
fuel supply components. Refer to the Fuel
and Engine Management section for the
correct procedure.

(1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
(2) Mark around the bonnet hinges with a soft
lead pencil Co facilitate correct installation. With the
aid of an assistant, remove the bonnet retaining bolts
and remove the bonnet from the vehicle.
(3) Drain the engine and transaxle lubricant.
(4) Open the coolant drain tap located on the
lower radiator pipe and drain the coolant. (5) Loosen the hose clips and disconnect the
heater hoses from the heater pipes at the bulkhead.
NOTE: Do not use excessive force to remove
the heater hoses from the heater pipes or the
heater core will become dislodged from the
heater unit. If necessary, cut the heater
hoses from the pipes using a sharp knife.

(6) Loosen the hose clamps and disconnect the
radiator hoses from the engine assembly. (7) Disconnect the positive lead from the bat-
tery. (8) On 1.8 liter models, disconnect the air inlet
duct.
(9) On 1.6 liter models, remove the air cleaner
assembly. Refer to the Fuel and Engine Management
section if necessary. (10) Disconnect the throttle cable from the throt-
tle body and from the camshaft housing top cover
bracket, if applicable. (11) Disconnect the fuel supply and return hoses.
Mark the hoses as an aid to installation. (12) Suitably mark and disconnect the charcoal
canister hoses. (13) Disconnect the injector wires from the injec-
tors. On 1.6 liter models, slide the wiring out from the
throttle body. (14) Disconnect the wiring fr om the throttle po-
sition sensor (TPS), idle air control (IAC) valve,
oxygen (O
2) sensor wire, coolant temperature sensor,
coolant sender and on 1.8 liter models, the manifold
air temperature (MAT) sensor. (15) Disconnect the wiring connector adjacent to
the top heater hose, the wiring from the alternator and
the two earth wires from underneath the cylinder head
bolts. (16) Lay the wiring loom over on the passenger
side of the engine compar tment, clear of the work
area.
(17) On manual transaxle models, loosen the
clutch cable adjusting nuts and remove the cable
through the slot in the lever. Remove the clutch cable
bracket from the transaxle after removing the retain-
ing bolts and place the cable to one side.
(18) Disconnect the wiring from the starter mo-
tor, speedometer sender and on manual transaxle
models, the reverse lamp switch wiring.
(19) If applicable, disconnect the power steering
lines from the pump and drain the fluid into a
container. Suitably plug the lines and the pump to
prevent the entry of dirt.
(20) On automatic transaxle models, disconnect
the selector cable and bracket from the transaxle
assembly.
Disconnect the transaxle oil cooler lines from the
transaxle. Plug the lines and fittings to prevent the
entry of dirt etc.

(21) Loosen the front wheel nuts, raise the front
of the vehicle and support it on extra long chassis
stands. Ensure that the vehicle is high enough to allow
removal of the engine from underneath. (22) Remove the front wheels and the engine
splash guards from the vehicle.
(23) On manual transaxle models, remove the
stay rod and control rod bolts and nuts and disconnect
the rods from the transaxle.
(24) Remove the lower control arm to steering
knuckle ball joint nuts and separate the ball joints
from the steering knuckle by holding a dolly or a
hammer against one side of the steering knuckle and
hitting the other side with a hammer. The taper on the
ball joint will release fr om the steering knuckle.
(25) Pull the steering knuckles outward swiftly to

Automatic Transaxle 141

(2) Incorrectly adjusted kickdown cable: Check
and adjust or renew the kickdown cable as required.

NOTE: Check and adjust the throttle cable
before adjusting the kickdown cable.

ENGINE WILL NOT START IN P OR N
RANGE OR WILL START IN ANY RANGE

(1) Neutral safety switch faulty: Adjust or renew
the neutral safety switch. (2) Incorrectly adjusted selector cable: Check
and adjust the selector cable as detailed.
2. DESCRIPTION

The automatic transaxle combines a fluid coup-
ling or torque converter with a fully automatic three
speed epicyclic gear system.

The transaxle provides th ree forward ratios and
one reverse. The hydraulic system consists of a single
pump and valv e arrangement.

The final drive or differential and the transaxle
use a common lubricant. The transaxle oil pan and
final drive drain plug will have to be removed to drain
the transaxle completely. Topping up or refilling is
done through the dipstick tube.

The gear selector lever is floor mounted and
connected to the transaxle by an adjustable cable. The
selector quadrant adjacent to the base of the lever is
marked P, R, N, D, 2, 1.

It is necessary for the selector lever to be in P or
N before the engine can be started. When testing or
tuning the engine, the handbrake must be firmly
applied and the selector lever placed in the P position,
otherwise the vehicle could move forward or back-
wards as the engine speed is increased.

For long distance towing the vehicle should be
towed with the front end raised.

It is not possible to start the engine by either
towing or pushing the vehicle.

The transaxle can be removed from the vehicle
without engine removal.

NOTE: As extensive knowledge and equip-
ment is required to overhaul the automatic
transaxle assembly, it is therefore not a
worthwhile repair proposition for the aver-
age person. However if the transaxle must
be overhauled by a specialist or be replaced
with a reconditioned unit, the removal and
installation procedure is fully described at
the end of this section.

3. TRANSAXLE FLUID
Only use the recommended transaxle fluid speci-
fied by the manufacturer when topping up or changing
the fluid in the system.

TO CHECK AND TOP UP
NOTE: The fluid level should be checked
after approximately 5 minutes driving on
the road when the engine has achieved its
normal operating temperature of approxi-
mately 65 deg C.

(1) Place the vehicle on a level floor and open
the engine bonnet.

NOTE: When working on the automatic
transaxle cleanliness is very important. Do
not reuse transaxle fluid and do not allow
foreign matter to enter the filler opening.

(2) Clean around the top of the dipstick to
ensure that no dirt or foreign matter can enter the
dipstick tube.
(3) Place the selector in the P position and
firmly apply the handbrake. (4) Move the selector thro ugh each gear return-
ing it to the P position.
(5) Check the fluid level with the engine running
at idle. Install the dipstick fully into the dipstick tube.
NOTE: If the vehicle has been driven at high
speed, or has been towing a load, or driven
through heavy city traffic in hot weather, a
period of about 30 minutes should be
allowed to permit the transaxle to cool
before checking the fluid level.

(6) Withdraw the dipstick and check the fluid
level reading. The fluid should be at the H mark on
the dipstick. If the fluid is low, stop the engine and
remove the dipstick from the vehicle. Using a funnel,
top up the transaxle with the recommended type of
transaxle fluid through the dipstick tube. (7) If the level is reading too high allow the
engine to cool down for about 30 minutes and recheck
the level as described. If the level is still too high, a
small amount of transaxle fluid may be drained from
the transaxle.

Checking the fluid level on the automatic transaxle
dipstick.

160 Front Suspension

(2) Disconnect the flexible brake hoses from the
suspension unit bracket.
(3) Using quick drying paint, place mating
marks on the camber adjustin g cam head bolt and the
suspension unit lower mounti ng as an aid to installa-
tion. (4) Remove the bolts and nuts retaining the
suspension unit lower mounting to the steering
knuckle. (5) Open the bonnet and remove the nuts
retaining the suspension unit upper mounting to the
inner mudguard panel and remove the suspension
unit assembly from the vehicle. Use care when
removing not to damage the drive shaft boot.

(6) Remove the dust cover and loosen the piston
rod nut but do not remove it at this stage. (7) Install a spring compressor to the
suspension
unit assembly. Compress the coil spring and remove
the piston rod nut. (8) Remove the washer, upper mounting assem-
bly, the thrust washer, spring seat, insulator, coil
spring, bump rubber and dust cover from the suspen-
sion unit. (9) Check the operation of the suspension unit.
With the suspension unit in a vertical position, move
the piston rod up and down a number of times. A

Dismantled view of the front suspension unit.
uniform resistance should be felt with no abnormal
slack spots or noise evident. If the suspension unit is
defective, it should be renewed.

NOTE: It is recommended that the suspen-
sion unit on the opposite side be renewed at
the same time.

(10) Check the upper mounting assembly for
damage and fatigue. Check the thrust washer for wear.
Check all rubber components, the spring seat and
insulator for wear, damage and deterioration. Renew
worn or damaged components. (11) Check the coil spring for fatigue by compar-
ison with a new spring. Al so check the spring for
cracks and damage. If the coil spring is defective, it is
recommended that the springs on both sides be
renewed.
TO ASSEMBLE AND INSTAL

Assembly and installation is a reversal of the
removal and dismantling procedure with attention to
the following points:
View of the front suspension unit with the spring
compressor installed.

Body 231

4. ENGINE BONNET
TO REMOVE, INSTAL AND ADJUST
Raise the engine bonnet and place covers on
both front mudguards. Mark the hinge mountings on
the bonnet with a soft lead pencil to aid assembly.
Place a quantity of soft rag folded several
times under each rear corner of the bonnet on the
scuttle panel. Disconnect the windscreen washer hose from
the bonnet at the tee piece. With the aid of an assistant supporting the
bonnet, remove the retaining bolts and lift the bonnet
from the vehicle. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:

Holding the bonnet in the position previ-
ously marked, install the bonnet hinge bolts
and
tighten to just over finger tight.
Close the bonnet and by pushing with the
hand, position the bonnet evenly in its opening.

Open the bonnet carefully and tighten the
mounting bolts. Check for correct positioning and adjust
again if necessary. Check the adjustment of the bonnet catch.
When the bonnet is closed the bonnet should align
with the front panels. When the catch is released the
bonnet should pop up sufficiently to enable the safety
catch to be released. If adjustment is necessary, mark the base
position with a pencil, loosen the retaining bolts and
move the catch in the desired direction. Tighten the
bolts and recheck.
NOTE: When adjusting the bonnet catch
ensure that the bonnet striker plate is enter-
ing centrally into the catch. Adjust the catch
or the bonnet lunges if necessary.

(7) When adjustment is complete, adjust the
bump rubbers on the radiator support panel up or
down by turning them to support the outer edges of
the bonnet.


View of the bonnet hinge showing the retaining/adjust-
ing bolts.

5. TAILGATE AND LOCK - HATCHBACK
TAILGATE
To Remove
Raise the tailgate and place protective covers
over the surrounding paintwork.

Using a soft lead pencil, mark around the
tailgate hinges to aid assembly. Remove the sealing grommets from the tail-
gate and disconnect the rear window washer hose. Prise out the tailgate trim panel retaining
clips and maneuver the tailgate interior trim panel
from the tailgate.
Disconnect the wiring connectors) inside the
tailgate and tie a piece of st ring to the connector(s).
Pull the tailgate wiring from the tailgate,

Installed view of the bonnet catch. View showing the right hand side tailgate components.