1987 NISSAN PULSAR checking oil

Engine 57
(23) Lower the vehicle to the ground and securely
tighten the wheel nuts.

10. PISTONS, CONNECTING RODS AND
CYLINDER BORES

Special Equipment Required:
To Inspect — Micrometer, cylinder measuring
gauge
To Remove Ridge from Bores — Ridge removal tool
To Deglaze Cylinder Bores — Cylinder surfacing
hone
To Install — Piston ring compressor
TO REMOVE
(1) Remove the engine sump and oil pump
pickup pipe as previously described. (2) Remove the cylinder head as previously
described. (3) Mark the relationship of the pistons to their
respective cylinders and the bearing caps to their
respective connecting rods by letter stamps or centre
punch marks. (4) Measure each connecting rod for side clear-
ance on the crankpin. Refer to the illustration. If the
clearance exceeds the Speci fications a new connecting
rod will have to be installed on assembly. (5) With number one cylinder on the bottom of
its stroke, remove the bear ing cap bolts and the
bearing cap. Wipe the bearing shell and the exposed part of the
journal with a piece of clean lint free cloth, insert a
piece of Plastigage across the journal, install the
bearing cap and tighten the bolts to the specified
torque.

Remove the bolts and cap and measure (with the
scale on the packet) the spread width of the Plastigage
to determine the bearing clearance.

Compare the measurement to the Specifications
and if the bearing clearance exceeds the limit, install a
new bearing on assembly.

Repeat the procedure on the remaining cylinders
and note each individual bearing clearance for assem-
bly purposes.

NOTE: Do not rotate the engine while the
Plastigage is in position or false readings
will result.

Dismantled view of the piston and connecting rod
components.
(6) Remove each bearing cap in turn, keeping
them in order, and using a wooden hammer shaft,
push each piston assembly from the cylinder block
and install its respective bearing cap.

NOTE: Before removing the pistons, remove
the ridge from the top of the cylinder bore
using a ridge removal tool.

(7) Remove the piston rings over the top of the
piston and discard the piston rings.

Checking the connecting rod side clearance using feeler
gauges.

Engine 59
(5) If the engine is completely dismantled, thor-
oughly clean the cylinder block with solvent and
compressed air paying particular attention to the
oilways. Inspect the block for cracks and damage.

TO CHECK PISTON CLEARANCE
(1) Using an accurate cylinder measuring gauge,
measure and note the diameter of each bore as
previously described. (2) Measure each piston skirt using a microme-
ter as follows:
(a) On 1.6 liter models, measure each piston
skirt at a point 9 mm above the bottom skirt edge and
at right angles to the gudgeon pin axis. (b) On 1.8 liter models, measure each piston
skirt at a point 6 mm above the bottom skirt edge and
at right angles to the gudgeon pin axis.
(3) The difference between the bore and the
piston measurement is the piston clearance. If the
clearance exceeds the Specifications, renew the pistons
and rebore all the cylinders.
(4) Cylinders that have had new pistons installed
or that have been rebored should have the piston
clearance checked again.

and not engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits or
kerosene.

(2) Honing should be carried out by moving the
hone up and down fast enough to obtain a cross hatch
pattern. When hone marks intersect at 60 degrees, the
pattern is most satisfactory for correct seating of rings.
(3) After honing it is necessary that the block be
cleaned again to remove all traces of abrasives.
NOTE: When deglazing, the cylinder should
be honed only sufficiently to eliminate the
glazed condition. Excessive honing will in-
crease the bore size and alter the piston
clearance.

(4) When honing is complete, ensure that the
cylinder bore, crankcase area and oilways are thor-
oughly cleaned. (5) After the cylinder block has been cleaned and
dried, wipe the bores with a lint free cloth and smear
them with engine oil to prevent rusting.
NOTE: All abrasives must be removed from
the engine components after honing. A so-
lution of soap and water should be used with
a brush and the components thoroughly
dried. A bore can be considered clean when
it can be wiped clean with a white cloth and
the cloth remains clean. Oil the bores after
cleaning to prevent rusting.

TO FIT NEW PISTON RINGS AND INSTAL
PISTONS

Once the correct piston and the bore relationship
has been determined and the pistons cleaned or
renewed as necessary, proceed as follows:

(1) Place a ring into number one cylinder bore
and using an inverted piston push the ring down 50
mm into the cylinder bore. (2) Withdraw the piston and measure the gap in
the ring with feeler gauges. Adjust the end gap of the
ring by filing as necessary. See the Specifications for
the ring end gap.
Measuring the piston diameter using a micrometer. On
1.6 liter models, dimension A = 9 mm. On 1.8 liter
models, dimension A - 6 mm.
TO INSPECT AND DEGLAZE CYLINDER
BORES

Cylinder bores that are fit for further service with
the original pistons, but require re-ringing, should be
deglazed with a hone. Before honing the cylinder
bores with crankshaft insta lled, place plenty of clean
rag over the crankshaft to keep the abrasive materials
from entering the crankcase area.

(1) Deglaze the cylinder walls using a cylinder
surfacing hone equipped with suitable stones. Inspect
the cylinder walls after each 20 strokes. Use honing oil
Checking the piston ring end gap.

60 Engine
NOTE: Should the ring end gap be greater
than the specified gap, another ring set
should be obtained and the ring end gaps
checked and compared with the Specifica-
tions.

(3) Treat each ring and cylinder bore individu-
ally and ensure that the rings are assembled to the
respective piston for the cylinder bore in which they
were installed to check the end gap.
(4) Assemble each oil control ring to its respec-
tive piston bottom groove as follows:
(a) Install the oil ring expander to the
piston
groove, ensuring that the ends of the expander are
bulled together and not overlapped. (b) Position one end of the lower side rail in the
groove and peel the ring over the piston and into the
groove. (c) Similarly install the upper side rail.
(5) Install the lower compression ring into
the
lower piston groove.

NOTE: The compression rings should be
installed with the manufacturers mark fac-
ing the top of the piston. To minimize the
possibility of ring breakage the rings can be
immersed in hot water prior to installation.

(6) Install the upper compression ring into
the
upper piston groove.
(7) Space the compression ring gaps 120 degrees
apart, and ensure that the o il ring gaps and the join in
the oil ring expander are not aligned. (8) With the rings correctly installed and
gapped, remove the bearing cap from the connecting
rod. (9) Liberally lubricate the piston assembly and
install the piston ring compressor to number one
piston.
NOTE: When installing the pistons to the

cylinder ensure that the front marking on
the piston is towards the front of the engine.

(10) Turn the crankshaft until number one crank-
pin is at the bottom of its stroke. (11) Install number one piston and connecting
rod
assembly into its bore. Push the assembly down the
bore until the connecting rod can be aligned with
number one crankpin.
NOTE: The bearing shells should be lubri-
cated with engine oil before installation.

(12) Install the connecting rod cap and tighten
the
retaining bolts to the specified torque.

NOTE: If new bearing shells were installed,
check the bearing clearance with Plastigage
as previously described.

(13) With the bearing clearance as specified, in-
stal the remaining pistons in the same manner.
(14) Ensure that the crankshaft turns without
binding.
(15) With all connecting rod bolts tightened to
the specified torque, install the associated
components
by referring to the relevant headings in this section.
11. CRANKSHAFT AND MAIN BEARINGS

Special Equipment Required:
To Inspect — Micrometer, Vee blocks, dial gauge
TO REMOVE
(1) With the engine assembly removed from the
vehicle and the transaxle separated from the engine,
refer to the appropriate headings or sections and
remove the following components: sump, oil pump
pickup pipe, oil pump, and flywheel or drive plate. (2) Remove the crankshaft rear oil seal from the



Using a ring compressor to install the piston.
Checking the crankshaft end float using feeler gauges.

Engine


Main bearing cap removed showing the location of the rear seal and sealant grooves.
until the sealant appears at the inner, lower edge of the
bearing cap to cylinder block joint. Install the bearing
cap bolts and tighten to the specified torque.

(5) Tighten the remaining main bearing cap
bolts and the connecting rod cap bolts to their
respective tensions and rotate the crankshaft to check
for binding. (6) Install the crankshaft oil seal to the end of the
crankshaft after applying lithium grease to the lip of
the oil seal. Ensure that the l i p of the seal is facing
towards the engine.
(7) Install the remainder of the engine compo-
nents by referring to the relevant headings in this
section.
TO RENEW MAIN BEARINGS -
CRANKSHAFT INSTALLED

(1) Remove the automatic transaxle or manual
transaxle as described in the appropriate section.

(2) Remove the flywheel/drive plate as outlined
under the Flywheel/Drive Plate heading. (3) Remove the engine sump and oil pump
pickup pipe as previously described. (4) Ensure that the main bearing caps are num-
bered to ensure correct assembly. (5) Remove the main bearing cap bolts and
remove the bearing cap and half shell of the bearing to
be renewed. Thoroughly clean the bearing cap in
solvent. (6) Where necessary, use the Plastigage method
to measure the bearing clearance.
(7) Position a piece of Plastigage the approxi-
mate length of the bearing width, across the bearing
shell in the cap and tigh ten the cap bolts to the
specified torque. Do not rotate the crankshaft. (8) Remove the bearing cap and measure the
spread width of the Plastigage with the scale on the
packet to determine the main bearing clearance.
Compare the measurement to the Specifications and if
the bearing clearance exceeds the limit, install a new
set of bearing shells.
NOTE: Renew one bearing at a time, leav-
ing the others securely attached.

(9) Install a brass rivet in the crankshaft journal
oil drilling and rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise
direction until the head of the rivet contacts the plain
edge of the upper bearing shell. (10) Continue to rotate the crankshaft to carry
the upper half of the bearing shell out of the crank-
case.
(11) Select a half shell of the required thickness
(standard or undersize), coat it liberally with clean
engine oil and start it, plai n edge first, into position on
the crankshaft. Rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise so
that the rivet contacts the locating lug edge of the
bearing shell, carrying it into position in the crankcase
above the main bearing journal. Slightly reverse the
rotation of the crankshaft and remove the rivet from
the oil drilling in the crankshaft. (12) Place the other half shell of the selected
bearing shells in the bear ing cap. checking the clear-
ance as detailed in operations (7) and (8).
NOTE: By checking the taper on the plas-
tigage any taper of the bearing journal can
be calculated.

(13) When the bearing has been correctly selected
to give the specified clearance, tighten the cap bolts to
the specified torque. (14) Use the same method to renew the other
main bearings. (15) When renewing the rear main bearings, re-
move and discard the rear crankshaft oil seal. (16) Install the rear main bearing cap into position
and inject KP510-00150 sealant or equivalent into the
grooves in the sides of the rear bearing cap. Fill the
grooves until the sealant a ppears at the inner lower
View showing the numbering and correct location of
the main bearing caps.

68
COOLING AND HEATING SYSTEMS
SPECIFICATIONS
Coolant capacity ........................................ 6.0 liters
Thermostat:
Opening temperature........................... 91 deg
C

Fully open temperature .................... 103 deg
C

Cooling fan:
Fan cut in temperat ure ....................... 100 deg C
Fan cut out temperature ...................... 95 deg C
Radiator cap opening
pressure ................................................... 78 -98 kPa
TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS
Water pump retaining bolts .............................25 Nm
Thermostat housing bolts .................................15 Nm
Sender unit .......................................................10 Nm
1. COOLING SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING
COOLANT LEAKAGE - EXTERNAL
(1) Loose hose clips or faulty hoses: Tighten the
hose clips or renew the faulty water hoses.
(2) Leaking radiator core or tanks: Repair or
renew the radiator. (3) Leaking heater core or hoses: Repair or renew the heater core. Check the hose clips and hoses
and renew if necessary.

(4)
Leaks at the thermostat cover and/or water
pump O rings. Renew the O rings. (5) Worn or damaged water pump seal assembly:
Renew the water pump. (6) Worn or damaged water pump bearing as-
sembly: Renew the water pump.
(7) Loose or rusted welch plugs; Renew the
welch plugs. (8) Faulty cylinder head gasket or loose cylinder
head bolts: Renew the cylinder head gasket and
correctly tighten the cylinder head bolts. (9) External crack in the cy linder head or cylin-
der block: Repair or renew the faulty components.
NOTE: Check the system for external leak-
age by running the engine to operating
temperature over a dry floor and checking
for the leak source.

Check the vehicle interior below the
heater core for moisture. If a rusted welch
plug is found, it is a good practice to renew
all the welch plugs.

COOLANT LEAKAGE - INTERNAL
( 1 ) Cylinder head gasket leak due to warped
cylinder head or cylinder block gasket faces: Reface


Checking the radiator hose for deterioration.

Check the engine oil for level and dilution on the
dipstick.

70 Cooling and Heating Systems


Installed view of the heater hoses. 1.6 liter models with the air cleaner removed for clarity
.
When the engine is at normal operating
temperature and the heater valve is open,
both of the heater hoses should feel
warm/hot. If the valve is not allowing the
coolant to flow, one hose will be hot while
the other will be cold.

NO COOLED AIR INSIDE VEHICLE
(1) Compressor drive belt slipping or broken:
Renew and/or adjust the drive belt as described in the
Engine Tune-up section.
(2) Insufficient refrigerant: Check the system for
leaks and charge as necessary. Refer to the Air
Conditioning heading in th is section for information
on checking the refrigerant level. (3) Compressor inoperative: Check for power to
the compressor clutch before removing the compres-
sor for repair by a specialist. (4) Heater system allowing warm air to mix with
cooled air: Check the operation of the heater system.
NOTE: The above trouble shooting proce-
dures are basic checks only. If the air
conditioning system is suspect, it is rec-
ommended that the vehicle be taken to an
authorized dealer for testing and repair.
It is normal for water to be seen drain-
ing under the vehicle from the evaporator
after the vehicle has been operated with
the air conditioning on.

3. DESCRIPTION
The cooling system is of the sealed, pressurized
type with fan and water pump assistance. The system
is pressurized in order to raise the boiling point of the
coolant and so increase the efficiency of the engine.

Provision for pressure a nd vacuum relief of the
system is incorporated in the radiator cap.

The radiator overflow hose is connected to a
reserve tank mounted adjacent to the battery. As the
coolant volume expands due to an increase in tem-
perature, the pressure valve in the radiator cap opens
and allows the excess coolant to flow into the reserve
tank. When the engine is stopped and the temperature
of the coolant falls, the vacuum valve in the radiator
cap opens and allows the excess coolant in the reserve
tank to siphon back into the radiator. Thus the
necessity for frequent topping up of the coolant is
eliminated.

The temperature of the cooling system is con-
trolled by a thermostat located in the thermostat
housing attached to the cylinder head.

The thermostat prevents circulation of coolant
through the radiator by directing coolant through the
by-pass circuit, until the engine has reached operating
temperature. This restricted circulation allows the
engine to reach operating temperature quickly, im-
proving drivability and fuel economy.

Removal of the thermostat to cure overheating is
not recommended because th e by-pass circuit will
remain open reducing the amount of water flowing
through the radiator.

An anti-corrosion inhibitor should always be
added to the coolant to protect the cooling and
heating systems from corrosion.

The water pump is mounted to the front of the
engine and is driven by the camshaft drive belt. It is
equipped with a double row ball bearing and a spring
loaded seal assembly. The water pump is a disposable
unit and cannot be repaired.

The fan is driven by an electric motor which is
actuated by the coolant temperature sensor and the
control unit.

On vehicles equipped with air conditioning, an
additional electric fan is m ounted to the radiator. This
fan is controlled by a sw itch connected to the air
conditioning compressor.

The radiator consists of an aluminum core with
plastic side tanks. Minor damage to the core can be
repaired using Nissan repair agent.

The left hand tank of the radiator houses the
transaxle oil cooler on automatic transaxle models.

To drain the cooling system a drain plug is
provided on the lower radiator pipe outlet.

4. RADIATOR
NOTE: To avoid scalding, use caution when
releasing the radiator cap on an engine
which is at the normal operating tempera-
ture. Turn the cap anti-clockwise to the first
stop and allow any pressure in the system to
release. When the pressure is released turn
the cap past the stop and remove it from the
radiator.

Fuel and Engine Management 89
The procedure for fabricating an LED test lamp is
fully described in the El ectrical System section.

If a conventional test lamp with a filament type
bulb is to be used, ensure that the current draw of the
test lamp does not exceed 0.3 amp to avoid damage to
the electronic components.

To check the current draw connect an accurate
ammeter, such as the multimeter described previ-
ously, in series with the test lamp and a battery.

If the ammeter reads less than 0.3 amp the test
lamp is suitable.

Tachometer
(1) Disconnect the resistor from the tachometer
pick-up wiring connector which is located on the
ignition coil wiring harness, and connect the positive
lead of an accurate tachometer to the brown wire
terminal in the wiring connector. (2) Connect the negative lead to a good earthing
point.

View showing the location of the tachometer pickup
wiring connector with the resistor installed.
Timing Light
(1) Connect the timing light to the engine fol-
lowing the instrument manufacturers instructions.

NOTE: Do not connect or disconnect the
timing light with the engine running as
voltage surges could damage the alternator
or control unit. Do not allow the high
tension leads to open circuit with the engine
running as damage to the engine manage-
ment system could result.

(2) Do not connect the timing light positive lead
to the alternator output terminal. Where possible,
connect the power leads of the timing light to an
external power source to prevent possible transient
voltages damaging the alternator or control unit.

4. SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS AND ADJUSTMENTS
NOTE: Due to the use of complex electronic
components in the engine management sys-

tem, the diagnosis and testing procedures
described in this section should not be
carried out by persons lacking an under-
standing of electronics and the precautions
associated with the servicing of electronic
components. It is rec ommended that should
a fault arise in the system, the vehicle be
referred to an authorized workshop.

The control unit can be damaged by
component faults not indicated by the self
diagnosis codes and the renewal of the
control unit without lo cating the cause of
the failure will result in the failure of the
replacement unit. It is for this reason that
the practice of substituting components to
isolate faults is not recommended.

Prior to performing any of the follow-
ing operations, refer to the Service Pre-
cautions and Procedures heading.

PRELIMINARY CHECKS
Prior to performing the Self Diagnosis Test Pro-
cedures, perform the following preliminary checks and
rectify any problems as necessary.

(1) Check for an adequate supply of fuel in the
fuel tank. (2) Check the wiring connectors and earth points
of all engine management components for clean,
secure connections. To prevent damage to the control
unit, disconnect the negative battery terminal before
disconnecting any engine ma nagement wiring connec-
tors. (3) Check the condition of the battery. Refer to
the Electrical System sectio n for checking procedures.
Rectify any faults as necessary. (4) Check the air cleaner element for restriction.
(5) Check for air leaks at the throttle body, inlet
manifold and all related hoses. (6) Check the fuel pump pr essure as described
later in this section. (7) Ensure that the engine is in a satisfactory
mechanical condition and is in tune. Refer to the
Engine and Engine Tune-up sections as necessary.
SELF DIAGNOSIS

This function is very useful in locating system
faults particularly intermittent problems. However,
the self diagnosis mode does not provide comprehen-
sive testing of the engine management system, and
therefore should always be used in conjunction with
the other test procedures described later, in order to
accurately locate system faults.

To Interpret Self Diagnosis Codes
Once the self diagnosis mode is activated, various
fault codes will be displayed as a series of flashes by
the ECM warning lamp on the instrument cluster.

Automatic Transaxle 141

(2) Incorrectly adjusted kickdown cable: Check
and adjust or renew the kickdown cable as required.

NOTE: Check and adjust the throttle cable
before adjusting the kickdown cable.

ENGINE WILL NOT START IN P OR N
RANGE OR WILL START IN ANY RANGE

(1) Neutral safety switch faulty: Adjust or renew
the neutral safety switch. (2) Incorrectly adjusted selector cable: Check
and adjust the selector cable as detailed.
2. DESCRIPTION

The automatic transaxle combines a fluid coup-
ling or torque converter with a fully automatic three
speed epicyclic gear system.

The transaxle provides th ree forward ratios and
one reverse. The hydraulic system consists of a single
pump and valv e arrangement.

The final drive or differential and the transaxle
use a common lubricant. The transaxle oil pan and
final drive drain plug will have to be removed to drain
the transaxle completely. Topping up or refilling is
done through the dipstick tube.

The gear selector lever is floor mounted and
connected to the transaxle by an adjustable cable. The
selector quadrant adjacent to the base of the lever is
marked P, R, N, D, 2, 1.

It is necessary for the selector lever to be in P or
N before the engine can be started. When testing or
tuning the engine, the handbrake must be firmly
applied and the selector lever placed in the P position,
otherwise the vehicle could move forward or back-
wards as the engine speed is increased.

For long distance towing the vehicle should be
towed with the front end raised.

It is not possible to start the engine by either
towing or pushing the vehicle.

The transaxle can be removed from the vehicle
without engine removal.

NOTE: As extensive knowledge and equip-
ment is required to overhaul the automatic
transaxle assembly, it is therefore not a
worthwhile repair proposition for the aver-
age person. However if the transaxle must
be overhauled by a specialist or be replaced
with a reconditioned unit, the removal and
installation procedure is fully described at
the end of this section.

3. TRANSAXLE FLUID
Only use the recommended transaxle fluid speci-
fied by the manufacturer when topping up or changing
the fluid in the system.

TO CHECK AND TOP UP
NOTE: The fluid level should be checked
after approximately 5 minutes driving on
the road when the engine has achieved its
normal operating temperature of approxi-
mately 65 deg C.

(1) Place the vehicle on a level floor and open
the engine bonnet.

NOTE: When working on the automatic
transaxle cleanliness is very important. Do
not reuse transaxle fluid and do not allow
foreign matter to enter the filler opening.

(2) Clean around the top of the dipstick to
ensure that no dirt or foreign matter can enter the
dipstick tube.
(3) Place the selector in the P position and
firmly apply the handbrake. (4) Move the selector thro ugh each gear return-
ing it to the P position.
(5) Check the fluid level with the engine running
at idle. Install the dipstick fully into the dipstick tube.
NOTE: If the vehicle has been driven at high
speed, or has been towing a load, or driven
through heavy city traffic in hot weather, a
period of about 30 minutes should be
allowed to permit the transaxle to cool
before checking the fluid level.

(6) Withdraw the dipstick and check the fluid
level reading. The fluid should be at the H mark on
the dipstick. If the fluid is low, stop the engine and
remove the dipstick from the vehicle. Using a funnel,
top up the transaxle with the recommended type of
transaxle fluid through the dipstick tube. (7) If the level is reading too high allow the
engine to cool down for about 30 minutes and recheck
the level as described. If the level is still too high, a
small amount of transaxle fluid may be drained from
the transaxle.

Checking the fluid level on the automatic transaxle
dipstick.