1983 FIAT UNO brake

depressurize the fuel system, before
disconnecting the fuel pipes and removing the
throttle body, as described in Section 9D.
34Disconnect the coolant and vacuum
hoses from the cylinder head and inlet
manifold (photo).
35Disconnect the electrical lead from the
coolant temperature switch, the LT leads from
the distributor and the idle cut-off solenoid
lead.
36Remove the distributor cap, disconnect
the plug leads and place the cap and leads to
one side of the engine compartment.
37Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover.
38Set No. 4 piston to TDC and then release
the timing belt tensioner and slip the belt from
the camshaft and coolant pump sprockets.
39Unbolt and remove the inlet manifold,
complete with carburettor, or throttle body as
applicable.
40Unbolt the exhaust manifold from the
cylinder head and tie it to one side of the
engine compartment; the downpipe bracket
will have to be disconnected.
41Unscrew the cylinder head bolts, a half
turn at a time in the reverse order to that
shown in Fig. 1.30 of Chapter 1. When the
bolts are free, remove them with their
washers.
42Lift the cylinder head from the block. If it is
stuck tight, insert pieces of wood into the
exhaust or inlet ports and use them as levers
to “rock” the head off the block. On no
account drive levers into the gasket joint orattempt to tap the head sideways as it is
located on positioning dowels.
43Remove and discard the cylinder head
gasket and both manifold gaskets.
44The cylinder head can be dismantled after
removing the camshaft and cam followers as
described in the preceding sub-Section.
45Further dismantling and decarbonising are
described in Chapter 1, Section 39. Note that
single valve springs are used.
46If the valves have been ground in, the
valve clearances will require adjusting, as
described previously. This should be done
before the cylinder head is refitted to the
engine.
47Before refitting the assembled cylinder
head, make sure that the head and block
mating surfaces are perfectly clean, and that
the block bolt holes have been cleared of any
oil.
48The camshaft sprocket timing mark must
be aligned with the one on the cylinder head.
49The new gasket should not be removed
from its nylon cover until required for use. Fit
the gasket dry to perfectly clean surfaces.
50Place the gasket on the cylinder block so
that the word ALTO can be read from above
(photos).
51Lower the cylinder head onto the block so
that it locates on the positioning dowels
(photo).
52The cylinder head bolts must have clean
threads, dipped in engine oil and allowed to
drain for thirty minutes. Screw the bolts infinger-tight and then tighten them in the
sequence shown in Fig. 1.30 of Chapter 1,
and in the stages specified (see Specification)
(photos).
53Refit the inlet manifold and carburettor
using a new gasket.
54Reconnect the exhaust manifold using a
new gasket. Tighten all nuts to the specified
torque. Reconnect the exhaust downpipe
bracket.
55Reconnect the timing belt and tension it
as described earlier.
56Refit the timing belt cover and the
distributor cap and camshaft cover.
57Reconnect all hoses, electrical leads and
controls.
58Fit the air cleaner.
59Fill and bleed the cooling system.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•23
5B.50A Cylinder head gasket5B.34 Inlet manifold coolant hose (A) and
brake servo vacuum hose (B)5B.32 Disconnecting the throttle cable
5B.52B Typical disc for angular tightening
of cylinder head bolts
5B.50B Cylinder head gasket top surface
marking
5B.52A Inserting a cylinder head bolt5B.51 Fitting the cylinder head
13

8Disconnect the heater hose from the inlet
manifold.
9On fuel injection models, depressurize the
fuel system (refer to Section 9D). Disconnect
the fuel inlet and return hoses from the fuel
pump (photo) or throttle body, as applicable.
10Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose
from the inlet manifold.
11Disconnect the throttle cable from the
carburettor, or throttle body as applicable.
12Disconnect the choke cable, if applicable
(photo).
13Disconnect the leads from the alternator.
14Disconnect the battery earth lead from the
transmission casing.15Disconnect the leads from the starter
motor and the HT lead from the ignition coil
(photo).
16Disconnect the coolant temperature
switch lead and the HT leads from the
distributor (photo).
17Disconnect the lead from the carburettor
fuel cut-off (anti-diesel) solenoid valve, where
applicable.
18Disconnect the lead from the oil pressure
switch (photo).
19Although not essential, removal of the
radiator is recommended as a precaution
against its damage during removal of the
power unit. Disconnect the wiring plugs from the fan and thermostatic switches
(photos).
20Disconnect the leads from the reversing
lamp switch on the transmission.
21Disconnect the clutch cable from the
release lever on the transmission.
22Disconnect the speedometer cable from
the transmission by unscrewing the knurled
ring.
23Working under the car, disconnect the
exhaust downpipes from the manifold and the
lower support bracket (photos).
24Disconnect the gearchange rods from the
levers on the transmission. One rod is
retained by a spring clip, the other by a
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•27
5C.15 Ignition coil HT lead connection5C.12 Choke cable connection at
carburettor5C.9 Fuel hose identification at pump; inlet
hose (1), hose to carburettor (2), return
hose (3)
5C.19D Removing the radiator/fan
assembly5C.19C Radiator fan cut-out thermostatic
switch5C.19B Radiator fan motor wiring
connector
5C.19A Radiator retaining clip5C.18 Oil pressure switch5C.16 Coolant temperature switch
13

9Turn the engine clockwise using a suitable
socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, until the
exhaust valve of No 1 cylinder (valve No 1) is
fully closed; ie the cam lobe is pointing
directly upwards. Alternatively, the engine can
be turned by jacking up one front corner of
the vehicle and supporting it securely on an
axle stand (apply the handbrake and chock
the diagonally-opposite rear wheel before
jacking), engaging top gear and turning the
raised roadwheel in the forward direction of
travel. In both cases, it will be easier to turn
the engine if the spark plugs are removed, but
if this is done, take care not to allow dirt or
other foreign matter to enter the spark plug
holes.
10Insert a feeler gauge of the correct
thickness between the cam follower shim and
the heel of the No 1 cam lobe (photo). If
necessary, increase or reduce the thickness
of the feeler gauge until it is a firm sliding fit.
Record the thickness of the feeler gauge,
which will represent the valve clearance for
this particular valve.
11Turn the crankshaft, and repeat the
procedure for the remaining valves, recording
their respective clearances. Note that the
clearance for inlet and exhaust valves differs.
12If a clearance is incorrect, the relevant
cam follower shim must be removed, and a
thicker or thinner shim must be fitted to
achieve the correct clearance. To remove a
shim proceed as follows.
13Turn the crankshaft until the relevant cam
lobe is pointing directly upwards.
14The cam follower must now be depressed
in order to extract the shim. FIAT special tool
No 1860642000 is available for this purpose,
but alternatively a suitable tool can be
improvised (photo). The tool should locate on
the rim of the cam follower, leaving enough
room for the shim to be prised out by means
of the cut-outs provided in the cam follower
rim. Depress the cam follower by turning the
crankshaft as described previously until the
relevant cam lobe is pointing directly
downwards, then fit the tool between the
camshaft and the edge of the cam follower to
retain the cam follower in the depressed
position.
15Ensure that the tool is securely located, asthere is a risk of personal injury if the tool is
dislodged whilst the cam follower is
depressed, then turn the crankshaft until the
relevant cam lobe is pointing directly
upwards, leaving sufficient room to extract
the shim (photo). A pair of angle-nosed pliers
will greatly ease removal of the shim.
16Once the shim has been extracted,
establish its thickness. The thickness in mm
should be stamped into the face of the shim,
although it is possible for wear to obliterate
the number, in which case the use of a metric
micrometer is the only way to accurately
establish the thickness.
17Refer to the clearance recorded for the
valve concerned. If the clearance recorded
was larger than that specified, a thicker shim
must be fitted, and if the clearance recorded
was smaller than that specified, a thinner shim
must be fitted. The required thickness of shim
can be
calculated as follows.
Sample calculation - clearance too large:
Desired clearance (A) 0.40 mm
Measured clearance (B) 0.45 mm
Difference (B - A) + 0.05 mm
Original shim thickness 3.40 mm
Required shim thickness 3.40 + 0.05 =
3.45 mm
Sample calculation - clearance too small:
Desired clearance (A) 0.50 mm
Measured clearance (B) 0.35 mm
Difference (B - A) 0.15 mm
Original shim thickness 4.55 mm
Required shim thickness 4.55 - 0.15 =
4.40 mm
18Shims are available in thicknesses from
3.20 to 4.70 mm, in steps of 0.05 mm. Note
that if several shims have to be changed, they
can often be interchanged, thus avoiding the
need by buy more new shims than are
necessary.
19The shims should be fitted to the cam
followers with the stamped thickness marking
against the face of the cam follower.
20After fitting a shim, rotate the crankshaft
as described previously until the relevant cam
lobe is pointing directly downwards (resting
on the shim), then carefully remove the tool
used to retain the follower in the depressed
position.21Re-check each relevant valve clearance
after fitting the shim.
22On completion, where applicable, lower
the vehicle to the ground.
23Refit the camshaft cover, using a new
gasket.
24On the ie engine, reconnect the hoses and
refit the air cleaner unit.
25On the Turbo ie engine, reconnect the air
hose and the accelerator cable.
Timing belt tensioner
and sprockets -
removal and refitting
#
Note: The timing belt must be renewed after
removal: never refit a used drivebelt. When
fitting the new timing belt it will need to be
correctly tensioned and to achieve this the
manufacturers specify the use of special tools
1860745200 (18760745300 on Turbo model)
and 1860745100. If these tools are not readily
available, an approximate setting can be
made, but in this instance it is strongly
recommended that the car be taken to a FIAT
dealer at the earliest opportunity to have the
belt tension checked and correctly set using
the recommended tools.
26Loosen off the front right-hand side wheel
bolts, then raise and support the car at the
front end on axle stands. Remove the front
right-hand roadwheel.
27Remove the underwing shield from the
right-hand wheel arch to allow access to the
lower timing cover and alternator fixings (photo).
13•38 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
7B.27 Underwing shield (A) showing
central compression pin (B) and retaining
clip (C). Drive pin through clip to remove
7B.15 Removing a shim from a cam
follower7B.14 Special tool for retaining cam
follower in depressed position7B.10 Measuring a valve clearance
(No 2 valve shown)

28Loosen off the retaining clips and detach
the air intake pipe from the air filter.
29Slide back the inspection cover from the
upper end of the timing cover (photo).
30Turn the engine over by hand to bring the
TDC timing marks of the flywheel-
to-bellhousing and the camshaft sprocket
-to-rear cover projection into alignment. The
crankshaft pulley also has a TDC timing mark
and this should be positioned as shown
(photos).
31Loosen off the retaining and adjustment
strap fixings, then pivot the alternator towards
the engine.
32Unscrew the upper retaining bolts
securing the timing cover.
33Loosen off the nut securing the alternator
and its drivebelt relay, then detach and
remove the alternator drivebelt.
34Unscrew and remove the crankshaft
pulley nut. Where the engine is in the car,
prevent the crankshaft from turning by
engaging top gear and having an assistant
apply the brake pedal hard. Unscrew and
remove the flywheel housing lower cover bolts
and remove the cover. The flywheel ring gear
can now be jammed with a suitable lever or
implement to prevent the crankshaft from
rotating. It should be noted that the pulley nut
is tightened to a considerable torque and a
strong socket, together with an L-bar and
extension tube, will therefore be required to
loosen and remove it (photo). Take care not todamage the gearbox/flywheel housing by
jamming the flywheel at a weak point.
35Withdraw the crankshaft pulley (photo).
36Unscrew and remove the lower retaining
bolts and remove the timing cover upwards
from the vehicle.
37Check that the previously mentioned
timing marks are still in alignment. Loosen off
the timing belt tensioner nut, then with the
tension released, withdraw the timing belt
from the sprockets.
38To remove the drivebelt tensioner, undo
the securing nut and withdraw the tensioner
pulley unit noting that it is in three sections
(photos).
39If desired, the sprockets and the rear
timing belt cover can be removed as follows,
otherwise proceed to paragraph 49.40To remove the camshaft sprocket, a
suitable tool must be used to hold the
camshaft stationary as the sprocket bolt is
loosened. A suitable tool can be improvised
as shown in photo 7B.48 using two pieces of
steel bar joined together by a pivot bolt, with
suitable bolts through the ends of the steel
bars to engage with the holes in the sprocket.
41Unscrew the sprocket bolt, then recover
the plain washer, and the thrust washer which
is bonded into a plastic sleeve (photo).
42The sprocket can now be withdrawn from
the end of the camshaft. If the sprocket is
tight, carefully lever it from the camshaft using
two screwdrivers, but take care not to
damage the rear timing belt cover.
43The crankshaft sprocket can be removed
by simply pulling it from the end of the
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•39
7B.30B Crankshaft pulley and timing cover
timing marks7B.30A Camshaft sprocket timing notch
aligned with timing (TDC) pointer in timing
case7B.29 Slide back inspection cover in the
timing case
7B.41 Removing the crankshaft sprocket
bolt, plain washer and thrust washer7B.38B The three sections of the timing
belt tensioner
7B.35 Crankshaft pulley removal7B.34 Crankshaft pulley nut removal
7B.38A Timing belt tensioner removal
13

98Commence reassembly by liberally oiling
the bearings in the housing, and the oil seal lip.
99Carefully insert the camshaft into the
housing from the blanking plate/distributor
end, taking care to avoid damage to the
bearings.
100Refit the blanking plate using a new
gasket.
101Refit the camshaft housing as described
previously in this Section.
Cylinder head
(1372 cc ie engine) -
removal and refitting
#
Note: The following instructions describe
cylinder head removal and refitting leaving the
camshaft, manifolds and associated items in situ
In the head. If required, these items can be
removed separately. When removing the
cylinder head the engine must be cold - do not
remove the head from a hot engine. A new
cylinder head gasket and any associated gaskets
must be used during reassembly. FIAT specify
that the main cylinder head bolts should be
renewed after they have been used (ie tightened)
four times. If in any doubt as to the number of
times that they have been used renew them as a
precaution against possible failure.
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of Section 9 before starting any
work.
102Depressurise the fuel supply system as
described in Section 9 of this Chapter.
103Disconnect the battery negative lead.
104Drain the engine coolant as described in
Section 8.
105Remove the air cleaner unit as described
in Section 9.
106Remove the timing belt as described
previously in this Section.107Disconnect the crankcase ventilation
hose from the cylinder head and the SPi
injector unit.
108Disconnect the accelerator cable at the
engine end.
109Detach the engine idle speed check
actuator lead, the inlet manifold vacuum
sensor lead, the coolant temperature sensor
lead, the injector supply lead, the throttle
position switch lead and the distributor cap
(with HT leads). Position them out of the way.
110Disconnect the brake servo hose from
the manifold.
111Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat and the inlet manifold.
112Slowly release the fuel supply and return
hose retaining clips and detach the hoses
from the injector unit housing and
connections. Catch any fuel spillage in a clean
cloth and plug the hoses to prevent the
ingress of dirt and further fuel loss.
113Unbolt and detach the exhaust downpipe
from the manifold.
114Loosen off the cylinder head retaining
bolts in a progressive manner, reversing the
sequence shown in Fig. 13.17. When all of the
bolts are loosened off, extract them and
collect the washers.
115Check that all fittings and associated
attachments are clear of the cylinder head,
then carefully lift the head from the cylinder
block. If necessary tap the head lightly with a
soft-faced mallet to free it from the block, but
do not lever it free between the joint faces.
Note that the cylinder head is located on
dowels.116Recover the old cylinder head gasket and
discard it.
117Clean the cylinder head and block mating
surfaces by careful scraping. Take care not to
damage the cylinder head - it is manufactured in
light alloy and is easily scored. Cover the coolant
passages and other openings to prevent dirt and
carbon from falling into them. Mop out all the oil
from the cylinder head bolt holes - if oil is left in
them, hydraulic pressure, caused when the bolts
are refitted, could cause the block to crack.
118If required the cylinder head can be
dismantled and overhauled as described in
paragraphs 129 to 131 of this Section.
119The new gasket must be removed from
its protective packing just before it is fitted.
Do not allow any oil or grease to come into
contact with the gasket. Commence refitting
the cylinder head by locating the new gasket
on the cylinder block so that the word “ALTO”
is facing up (photo).
120With the mating faces scrupulously
clean, refit the cylinder head into position and
engage it over the dowels. Refer to the note at
the beginning of this part of the Section, then
refit the ten main cylinder head bolts and
washers. Screw each bolt in as far as possible
by hand to start with. Do not fit the smaller
(M8 x 1.25) bolts at this stage (photos).
121The bolts must now be tightened in stages
and in the sequence shown in Fig. 13.17. Refer
to the specified torque wrench settings and
tighten all bolts to the Stage 1 torque, then
using a suitable angle gauge, tighten them to
the second stage, then the third stage (photos).
122With the main cylinder head bolts fully
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•43
7B.120B . . . and engage the positioning
dowels in their holes7B.120A Lower the cylinder head onto the
block . . .7B.119 Locating a new cylinder head
gasket on the cylinder block (engine
shown on dismantling stand)
7B.121A Tighten main cylinder head bolts
to specified torque . . .Fig. 13.17 Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence on the 1372 cc ie and Turbo ie
engines (Sec 7B)
13
7B.121B . . . and then through the specified
angle

fitting, as during removal. Note that the
compression rings are brittle, and will snap if
expanded too far.
206If new pistons are to be fitted, they must
be selected from the grades available, after
measuring the cylinder bores. Normally, the
appropriate oversize pistons are supplied by
the dealer when the block is rebored.
207Whenever new piston rings are being
installed, the glaze on the original cylinder
bores should be removed using either
abrasive paper or a glaze-removing tool in an
electric drill. If abrasive paper is used, use
strokes at 60º to the bore centre-line, to
create a cross-hatching effect.
Engine/transmission
mountings - renewalÁ
208The engine/gearbox assembly is
suspended in the engine compartment on
three mountings, two of which are attached to
the gearbox, and one to the engine.
Right-hand mounting
209Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
210Suitable lifting tackle must now be
attached to the engine in order to support it as
the engine mounting is removed. No lifting
brackets are provided, so care must be taken
when deciding on an engine lifting point. In the
workshop, a right-angled bracket was made up
by bending a suitable piece of steel plate. The
bracket was then bolted to the engine using the
rear right-hand camshaft housing securing bolt
with suitable packing washers.
211Attach the lifting tackle to the bracket on
the engine and just take the weight of the
assembly.
212Working under the vehicle, unbolt the
engine mounting bracket from the cylinder
block, and unbolt the mounting from the
body, then withdraw the bracket/mounting
assembly.
213Unscrew the nut and through-bolt,
counter holding the bolt with a second
spanner or socket, and separate the mounting
from the bracket.
214Fit the new mounting to the bracket, and
tighten the nut to the specified torque, while
counterholding the through-bolt using a
suitable spanner or socket.
215Refit the mounting bracket to the cylinder
block, and tighten the securing bolts to the
specified torque.
216Refit the mounting to the body and
tighten the securing bolts to the specified
torque.
217Disconnect the lifting tackle from the
engine, and remove the engine lifting bracket.
218Lower the vehicle to the ground.
Left-hand mountings
219Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
220Suitable lifting tackle must now be
attached to the gearbox lifting bracket inorder to support the weight of the assembly
as the mounting is removed.
221Attach the lifting tackle to the bracket on
the gearbox, and just take the weight of the
assembly.
222Working under the vehicle, unbolt the
mounting bracket from the gearbox, and
unbolt the mounting from the body, then
withdraw the bracket/mounting assembly.
223Proceed as described in paragraphs 213
and 214.
224Refit the mounting bracket to the
gearbox, and tighten the securing bolts to the
specified torque.
225Refit the mounting to the body and
tighten the mounting bolts to the specified
torque.
226Disconnect the lifting tackle from the
engine.
227Lower the vehicle to the ground.
PART C: ENGINE REMOVAL
AND DISMANTLING
Method of removal - general
1The engine (complete with transmission) is
disconnected and lowered downwards
through the engine compartment, then
withdrawn from the front underside of the car.
1372 cc engine/
transmission - removal
and separation
#
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of Section 9 before starting any
work.
2Depressurize the fuel system as described
in Section 9 of this Chapter.
3Disconnect the battery negative lead.
4Mark the position of the hinges on the
underside of the bonnet, then with the aid of
an assistant, unscrew the hinge bolts and lift
the bonnet clear of the car. Store the bonnet
in a safe area.
5Drain the engine coolant.
6Drain the engine and transmission oils.
7Disconnect and remove the air filter.
8Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
engine, including the hose to the inlet
manifold.
9Detach the ignition coil (HT) lead from the
distributor.10Compress the retaining clip and detach
the engine idle speed actuator lead from the
SPi unit (photo).
11Disconnect the brake servo vacuum pipe
from its connector on the inlet manifold.
12Disconnect the throttle cable from the SPi
unit.
13Disconnect the engine speed sensor lead.
14Release and detach the reversing light
lead from the switch on the transmission
(photo).
15Before disconnecting the hydraulic hose
from the clutch slave cylinder, remove the
filler cap from the reservoir and place a piece
of polythene sheet over the filler neck, then
refit the cap; this will help prevent excess fluid
loss. Once disconnected, plug the hose and
its cylinder connection to prevent the ingress
of dirt into the hydraulic system.
16Disconnect the wiring connector from the
alternator.
17Position a clean rag under the fuel supply
and return hose connections to the SPi unit,
then slowly unscrew the hose clips to release
the system pressure; catch fuel leakage in the
rag and dispose of it safely. Detach the hoses
and plug them to prevent ingress of dirt and
any further fuel leakage. Position the hoses
out of the way.
18Detach the wiring connector from the
engine coolant temperature sender unit
(photo).
19Release the retaining clip and detach the
wiring connector from the throttle position
switch. Also detach the associated earth
leads from the cylinder head.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•49
7C.14 Reversing light switch and lead7C.18 Engine coolant temperature sender
and wiring connector
7C.10 Engine idle speed actuator/SPi unit
lead connection (arrowed)
13

20Release the retaining clip and detach the
wiring connector from the fuel injector
connection (photo).
21Loosen off the front wheel bolts each
side, then raise and support the car at the
front end on axle stands. When raised,
support at a height which will allow the engine
and transmission to be withdrawn from the
underside when fully disconnected. Ensure
that the vehicle is securely supported before
working underneath it.
22Unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the
front roadwheels.
23Release the retaining clips and remove
the underwing shield from the right- and
left-hand front wheel arch.24Relieve the staking, then unscrew and
remove the front hub nut using a socket and
suitable extension. Repeat the procedure on
the opposite front hub.
25Unscrew the retaining nut and disconnect
the tie-rod to steering arm balljoint using a
suitable balljoint separator tool. Repeat the
procedure on the other side.
26Note the direction of fitting, then unscrew
and remove the hub-to-strut retaining bolts
and nuts on each side.
27Unscrew and remove the anti-roll bar-
to-track control arm retaining nuts each side.
28Unscrew and remove the front brake
caliper hydraulic pipe support bracket bolt
each side.29Pull the wheel hub outwards and detach
the driveshaft from it, noting that there may be
a small amount of oil spillage as it is
withdrawn. Repeat the procedure on the
opposite side.
30Disconnect the wiring connector from the
engine oil level sensor lead.
31Unscrew the retaining nuts to detach and
remove the exhaust pipe front section or
alternatively, remove the system complete.
32Unscrew the knurled retaining nut and
detach the speedometer cable from the
transmission (photo).
33Unscrew the retaining nut and detach the
earth strap from the transmission (photo).
34Extract the split pin and detach the gear
selector rod from the transmission pin.
Disconnect the gear engagement and selector
levers from the balljoints.
35The weight of the engine will now need to
be supported from above. Connect a suitable
lift hoist and sling to the engine. When
securely connected, take the weight of the
engine/transmission unit so that the tension is
relieved from the mountings.
36Unscrew and remove the engine and
transmission support mounting bolts at the
points indicated (photos).
37The engine/transmission unit should now
be ready for removal from the vehicle. Check
that all of the associated connections and
13•50 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Fig. 13.22 The underwing
shield retaining clips (arrowed)
on the 1372 cc ie and Turbo ie
engines (Sec 7C)Fig. 13.25 Gear engagement
and selector lever balljoints
(arrowed) on the 1372 cc ie and
Turbo ie engines (Sec 7C)Fig. 13.23 Engine oil level
sensor wiring connector
(arrowed) on the 1372 cc ie and
Turbo ie engines (Sec 7C)Fig. 13.24 Disconnect the gear
selector rod at the connection
indicated on the 1372 cc ie and
Turbo ie engines (Sec 7C)
7C.33 Disconnect the transmission earth
strap7C.32 Disconnecting the speedometer
drive cable from the transmission7C.20 Fuel injector wiring connection
7C.36B Transmission rear mounting7C.36A Engine right-hand mounting

Fuel pressure regulator
60Disconnect the vacuum hose from the
regulator (photo).
61Anticipate some loss of pressurised fuel,
and then disconnect the fuel hose from the
regulator. Unbolt and remove the unit.
Excessive air pressure switch
62This is screwed into the end of the inlet
manifold. Disconnect the electrical leads and
unscrew the switch.
Coolant temperature sensor
63This is screwed into the cylinder head and
has wires connected to it. Drain the cooling
system before commencing operations.
64Disconnect the wiring plug and unscrew
the sensor.
Throttle valve housing and inlet
manifold
65Disconnect the air inlet hose from the
throttle valve housing, and also the
supplementary air valve hose.
66Disconnect the throttle control cable by
swivelling the grooved sector and slipping the
cable nipple from its recess.
67Disconnect the wiring plug from the
throttle position (potentiometer) switch.
68Unbolt the fuel pressure regulator/wiring
loom bracket, and also the wiring loom
bracket at the other end of the inlet manifold.
Move the wiring loom aside.
69Unbolt and remove the throttle housing
support bracket.
70Disconnect the vacuum servo hose and
the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hosesfrom the inlet manifold (photos).
71Disconnect the leads from the excessive
air pressure switch.
72Unscrew the inlet manifold fixing nuts.
Note that double nuts are used at the ends of
the manifold in order to secure the exhaust
heat shield (photo). The shield should be
released and lowered to rest on the exhaust
manifold.
73Unscrew and remove the remaining two
nuts now exposed by lowering the heat shield
and lifting the inlet manifold away (photo).
74If necessary, the injectors and cooling
tube can be withdrawn, and the two twin inlet
pipe stubs removed. These are retained with
the exhaust manifolds using nuts and washers
(photo).
Fuel rail and injectors
75Disconnect the fuel delivery hose from the
fuel rail by unscrewing the union nut (photo).
Be prepared for some loss of pressurised fuel.
76Disconnect the fuel return hose.
77Unbolt the fuel pressure regulator and the
wiring loom brackets (photo).
78Disconnect the air intake hose from the
throttle valve housing, and then unbolt and
remove the throttle valve housing support
bracket (photo).
79Disconnect the hose from the injector
cooling fan, and also disconnect the fan
thermo-switch on the underside of the injector
cooling air duct (photo). Disconnect the
injector wiring plugs, and then slide out the
injector cooling air duct.
13•70 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
9C.77 Wiring loom clip and bracket9C.75 Disconnecting the fuel delivery hose
union9C.74 Removing an inlet manifold twin
pipe stub
9C.73 Removing the inlet manifold9C.72 Double nuts at the end of the inlet
manifold
9C.70B Fuel pressure regulator vacuum
hose connection at the inlet manifold9C.70A Brake servo vacuum hose
connection to inlet manifold9C.60 Fuel pressure regulator