1983 FIAT UNO check oil

6On 999, 1108 and 1372 cc engines, the
distributor is driven from the rear end of the
camshaft.
7On the 1116 and 1299/1301 cc engines, the
distributor is driven from an extension of the
oil pump driveshaft which is geared to the
auxiliary shaft.
8The distributor contains a reluctor mounted
on its shaft, and a magnet and stator fixed to
the baseplate.
9Ignition advance is controlled in the
conventional way mechanically by centrifugal
weights and a diaphragm unit for vacuum
advance.
10Instead of the conventional method of
interrupting the low tension circuit to generate
high tension voltage in the coil by means of a
mechanical contact breaker, when the
electronic ignition is switched on, the
switching of the transistors in the electronic
control unit (ECU) prevents current flow in the
coil primary windings.
11Once the crankshaft rotates, the reluctor
moves through the magnetic field created by
the stator and when the reluctor teeth are in
alignment with the stator projections a small
AC voltage is created. The ECU amplifies this
voltage and applies it to switch the transistors
and so provide an earth path for the primary
circuit.
12As the reluctor teeth move out of
alignment with the stator projections the AC
voltage changes, the transistors in the ECU
are switched again to interrupt the primary
circuit earth path. This causes a high voltage
to be induced in the secondary winding.
Distributor
(breakerless type) -
removal and refitting
#
13Removal of the distributor on the 903,1116, 1299 and 1301 cc engines is as
described in Chapter 4, Section 6.
14On 999, 1108 and 1372 cc engines, mark
the position of the distributor clamp plate in
relation to the cylinder head surface.
15Unclip the distributor cap and move it to
one side with the HT leads attached.
16Disconnect the LT lead plug and, where
applicable, the vacuum hose (photo).
17Unscrew the distributor fixing nuts and
withdraw the unit.
18The distributor drive is by means of an
offset dog no special procedure is required to
refit it. Providing the dog engages in its slot
and the distributor body is turned to align the
marks made before removal, the timing will
automatically be correct.
19If a new distributor is being fitted (body
unmarked), set No. 4 piston at TDC (0º) by
turning the crankshaft pulley bolt until the
timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and
engine front cover are in alignment.
20Align the drive dog and fit the distributor
then turn the distributor body until the contact
end of the rotor is aligned with the arrow on
the distributor dust shield.
21Tighten the distributor clamp nuts. Refit the
cap and disconnected components and then
check ignition timing using a stroboscope.
Distributor (breakerless
type) - overhaul#
22It is recommended that a worn out or
faulty distributor is renewed. However,
individual components such as the cap, rotor,
reluctor, magnet/stator/baseplate assembly,
vacuum diaphragm unit, and drive gear or dog
are available separately.
Breakerless
ignition system
components - testing
ª
23A voltmeter and an ohmmeter will be
required for this work.
Primary circuit voltage
24Turn on the ignition, and using a voltmeter
check the voltage at the ignition coil LT
terminals. Any deviation from battery voltage
will indicate a faulty connection, or if these are
satisfactory, then the coil is unserviceable.
Magnetic impulse generator winding
25Remove the distributor and ECU and
disconnect their connecting leads.
26Connect an ohmmeter to the impulse
generator terminals and note the reading. The
resistance should be as given in the Specifi-
cations at the beginning of this Chapter.
27Now check between one of the impulse
generator terminals and the metal body of the
distributor. Infinity should be indicated on the
ohmmeter. If it is not, renew the impulse
generator carrier plate. Note: When carrying out
this test it is imperative that the connections are
remade as originally observed. Also ensure that
there is no possibility of the ECU supply (red)
cable and earth cable making contact in service.
Ignition coil winding resistance
28Check the resistance using an ohmmeter
between the coil LT terminals. Refer to the
Specifications for the expected coil resistance.
29Check the resistance between the LT lead
socket on the coil and each of the LT
terminals. Refer to the Specifications for the
expected coil resistance.
30The rotor arm resistance should be
approximately 5000 ohms.
Microplex ignition system -
description
31This system is fitted to the 1301 and
1372 cc Turbo ie models, and comprises the
following components.
Electro-magnetic sensors
32Two sensors are used to pick up engine
speed and TDC position directly from the
crankshaft.
Pressure and vacuum sensor
33This converts inlet manifold vacuum
pressure into an electrical signal for use by
the electronic control unit (ECU).
Anti-knock sensor
34This converts “pinking” detonations which
occur within the combustion chambers into
an electrical signal for use by the ECU (photo).
Electronic Control Unit (ECU)
35This computes the optimum ignition
advance angle from the sensor signals
received, and controls the action of the
ignition unit (photo).
13•86 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Fig. 13.72 Rotor aligned with arrow on
distributor dust shield - 999 and 1108 cc
engines (Sec 10)
1 ECU
2 Ignition coil
3 Distributor
4 Vacuum advance
unit5 Pick-up filter with
calibrated opening
for atmospheric
pressure
Fig. 13.71 Location of electronic ignition
components on early models with
breakerless ignition (Sec 10)
10.16 Distributor LT lead connecting plug

Ignition unit
36This comprises four elements (photo).
a) Power module - receives the ignition
advance command and controls the
conduction angle of the primary current
and energy stored in the coil.
b) Dissipater plate - eliminates the heat
which is generated by the high volume of
current.
c) Ignition coil with low primary resistance.
d) Distributor - a means of distributing high
tension to the spark plugs. The rotor is
driven in an anti-clockwise direction
(viewed from transmission) by a dog on
the end of the camshaft.
37The system incorporates a safety
pressure switch, which cuts out the ignition if
the turbocharging pressure exceeds a value
of between 0.84 and 0.93 bars (12.2 and
13.5 lbf/in
2) above atmospheric pressure.
Distributor (Microplex) -
removal and refitting#
38Remove the distributor cap and place it to
one side, complete with spark plug leads
(photo).
39Turn the crankshaft by means of the
pulley nut, or by raising and turning a front
wheel with top gear engaged, until No. 4
piston is on its firing stroke. This will be
indicated when the contact end of the rotorarm is aligned with the mark on the distributor
body rim, and the lug on the crankshaft pulley
is aligned with the timing pointer on the
engine. The right-hand underwing shield will
have to be removed in order to see the marks
(photo).
40Unscrew the distributor fixing nuts and
withdraw the distributor.
41When fitting the distributor, the offset
drive dog will automatically locate the
distributor rotor in its correct position, but the
distributor body may require rotating in order
to align the rim mark with the rotor. The
elongated slots for the fixing studs are to
permit initial alignment, not for subsequent
adjustment, as advance angle alterations are
carried out automatically by the system ECU
(photos).
42Tighten the nuts and refit the cap with
leads.
43Unless a stroboscope and a vacuum
pressure gauge are available, it will not be
possible to check the advance values with the
engine running. Where these instruments are
available, connect the vacuum gauge to the
inlet manifold, and the stroboscope in
accordance with the equipment manufac-
turer’s instructions. Refer to Fig. 13.79
according to the inlet manifold vacuum
pressure indicated.
Microplex ignition system
components - testing ª
44An ohmmeter and a voltmeter will be
required for these tests.
45Remove the multipin plug from the ECU.
Engine speed sensor
46Insert the probes of an ohmmeter
between terminals 3 and 16 of the multipin
connector; 618 to 748 ohms (1301 cc) or
578 to 782 ohms (1372 cc) should be
indicated.
47If necessary, carry out a check of the gap
between the sensor and flywheel teeth as
described in Chapter 4, Section 10.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•89
10.39 Crankshaft pulley timing marks
(arrowed)10.38 Removing the distributor cap10.36 Ignition coil (1) and power module (2)
on 1301 cc Turbo ie engine
Fig. 13.78 Rotor aligned with distributor
body rim mark - Microplex ignition system
(Sec 10)
10.41A Distributor body showing elongated
slots in the mounting lugs
Fig. 13.77 Crankshaft pulley timing mark
aligned with timing pointer - Microplex
ignition system (Sec 10)
1 TDC sensor10.41B Distributor drive dog
13

TDC sensor
48Insert the probes of the ohmmeter
between terminals 1 and 2 of the multipin
connector; 618 to 748 ohms (1301 cc) or 578
to 782 ohms (1372 cc) should be indicated.
49If necessary, carry out a check of the gap
between the sensor and the crankshaft pulley,
as described in Chapter 4, Section 10.
ECU supply
50Switch on the ignition, and then insert the
probes of a voltmeter between terminals 13
and 11 of the multipin connector. Battery
voltage should be indicated. If not, check the
battery earth, ignition switch or intermediate
connector plug for security.
Power module supply (1301 cc)
51Pull the multipin plug from the powermodule, and connect the probes of a
voltmeter between terminal 4 of the connector
and earth. If the reading is less than battery
voltage, check the security of all connections
between the ignition switch and terminal + 15
of the ignition coil.
52Reconnect the multipin connector to the
ECU, but have the one from the power
module disconnected, and then switch on the
ignition.
53Connect the voltmeter between terminals
4 and 2 of the power module multipin
connector. If the indicated voltage is less than
battery voltage, check the security of all
connections between the ignition switch and
terminal + 15 of the ignition coil, and the
battery earth. If all are satisfactory, check for
continuity between terminals 11 and 12. If
continuity is broken, renew the ECU.
Power module (1372 cc)
54Proceed as described in paragraph 53.
Anti-knock sensor
55If “pinking” occurs, or loss of power is
noticed, test the sensor by substitution of a
new one.
Ignition coil
56Disconnect the leads from terminals 1
and 15 on the coil before testing.
57Using the ohmmeter, check the resistance
of the primary winding. This should be
between 0.31 and 0.37 ohms (1301 cc) or
0.40 to 0.49 ohms (1372 cc), at an ambient
temperature of 20ºC (68ºF).
58The secondary winding resistance should
be between 3330 and 4070 ohms (1301 cc) or
4320 to 5280 ohms (1372 cc), at an ambient
temperature of 20ºC (68ºF).
Distributor
59Check the resistance of the rotor arm,
which should be between 800 and
1200 ohms.
60Where all the foregoing tests have proved
satisfactory, then any problem must be due to
a fault in either the power module or the ECU.
These components can only be checked by
the substitution of a new unit - power module
first, then the ECU.
Safety pressure switch
61The device protects the engine from
excessive turbocharging pressure, cutting off
the ignition by earthing the Microplex ECU.
Testing is not possible without a special
pressure pump, so the easiest way to check a
suspected fault is to fit a new unit.
Digiplex 2 ignition system -
description
62This system operates in a similar manner
to that of the earlier type described in Chap-
ter 4, but the circuit layout differs to suit the
Mono Jetronic fuel injection system. In
operation, the main difference is that the
Digiplex 2 system has a greater number of
13•90 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Fig. 13.81 Microplex ignition system
control unit connection (Sec 10)
For colour code, see main wiring diagramsFig. 13.80 Microplex ignition system ECU multipin connector (Sec 10)
For colour code, see main wiring diagrams
Fig. 13.79 Ignition advance curves - Microplex ignition system on the 1301 cc Turbo ie
(Sec 10)

advance points than the earlier system.
Comparison of Fig. 13.82 with Fig. 4.2
illustrates the difference in layout. Note that
the distributor is mounted on the rear end of
the cylinder head and is driven by the
camshaft.
63When working on the Digiplex 2 ignition
system or associated components, the
precautionary notes outlined in Section 9 of
Chapter 4 must be adhered to.
64As with the earlier system, test
procedures possible on the Digiplex 2 system
are restricted due to the need for specialised
testing equipment. The following checks are
possible, however, using a conventional test
meter.
Ignition coil check
65To check the resistance of the coil’s
primary windings, connect the probes of an
ohmmeter between the positive terminal and
the negative terminal as shown in Fig. 13.83,
and check that the resistance reading at 18 to
28ºC is 0.45 ohms ± 10% (photo).66To check the resistance of the coil’s
secondary windings, connect the probes of an
ohmmeter between the positive terminal and
the HT lead terminal as shown in Fig. 13.84.
Check that the resistance reading at 18 to
28ºC (64 to 82ºF) is 4800 ohms ± 10%.
Ignition timing check
67Refer to paragraph 2 in this Section.
Engine speed and TDC sensor check
68To check the resistance between the
sensor and the ECU, detach the wiring
connector (photo). Connect the probes of an
ohmmeter to the connector terminals and
check that the resistance reading is between
600 and 760 ohms at 20ºC (68ºF). If the
reading is not as specified, the sensor must
be renewed.
69The gap between the sensor and the pins
on the rear face of the flywheel must be
between 0.2 and 0.8 mm. Any deviation
outside of this clearance will be due to
mechanical damage to the sensor andnecessitates its renewal. The sensor is
accurately positioned during manufacture and
secured with tamperproof screws; it does not
require any adjustment during servicing. If it is
necessary to renew the sensor, a special gap
setting tool is required and the task is
therefore best entrusted to a FIAT dealer.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•91
Fig. 13.82 Digiplex 2 ignition system wiring circuits and components (Sec 10)
10.68 ECU location on the 1372 cc ie
engine10.65 Ignition coil and connections on the
1372 cc ie engineFig. 13.84 Test connections for ignition
coil secondary windings check - Digiplex 2
ignition system (Sec 10)
Fig. 13.83 Test connections for ignition
coil primary windings check - Digiplex 2
ignition system (Sec 10)
13
1 Connection point (lines connected to
the intake manifold)
2 ECU
3 Ignition coil
4 Distributor
5 Engine flywheel (with
five pins)
6 On/off switch (if fitted)
for advance reduction
7 On/off switch 2 (if fitted)
for curves
8 Battery
9 Spark plugs
10 Tachometer
11 Diagnostic socket
12 Engine speed and TDC sensor
13 To check actuator idle speed
14 To terminal no. 1 of injection control unit
(rpm signal)

final drive unit. The inboard end of each
driveshaft locates in the differential. All helical
gear clusters are in constant mesh, with the
fifth gear assembly located on an intermediate
plate mounted on the rear end of the gearbox.
Gear engagement is made by sliding
synchromesh hubs. Gearchanges are made
via a central floor-mounted gear lever.
MaintenanceÁ
2Maintenance is limited to periodically
checking the oil level, topping up as required,
renewing the oil, and visually inspecting the
transmission for oil leaks. The most likely
source of an oil leak will be from the driveshaft
seals.
Oil level - checkingÁ
3For improved access, jack up the vehicle
and support it on axle stands. Note that the
vehicle must be level in order to carry out this
check.
4If the transmission is hot due to the car
having been driven recently, allow it to cool
before making the check; oil foams when hot
and can produce a false level reading. Wipe
the area around the filler plug then unscrew
and remove the plug from its location in the
front of the casing. The oil should be level with
the base of the filler plug hole.
5If necessary, top up with oil of the specified
grade.
6On completion refit the filler plug, wipe
clean any oil spillage, then lower the car to the
ground.
Oil - renewalÁ
7The transmission oil should ideally be
drained when hot (directly after the vehicle
has been used). For improved access, jack up
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Note that the vehicle must be level to ensure a
correct level reading when topping up.
8Wipe clean the area around the filler plug on
the front face of the transmission casing, then
unscrew and remove the plug.
9Position a suitable container underneath
the drain plug (located at the left-hand end of
the transmission). Unscrew the plug and allow
the oil to drain into the container. Oil will start
to drain before the plug is fully withdrawn so
take precautions against scalding. Wait about
ten minutes to allow the oil to drain fully.
10When the oil has finished draining, clean
around the threads of the drain plug and its
location in the transmission casing, then refit
the plug and tighten it.
11Refill the transmission with the specified
quantity and grade of oil through the
filler/lever plug hole. With the vehicle level and
the transmission cold check the oil level as
described above, then refit and tighten the
plug. Lower the vehicle to complete.
Gearlever and linkages - general
12The component parts of the gearchange
and selector assemblies are shown in
Figs. 13.91 and 13.92. They do not normally
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•95
Fig. 13.90 Exploded view of the transmission unit fitted to 1372 cc models (Sec 12)
13
Fig. 13.89 Gearchange control linkage on the 1301 cc Turbo ie model with Antiskid
(Sec 12)

27The engine must now be supported at its
left-hand end. If the engine/transmission lift
bracket is unbolted it can be attached at
another suitable position on the engine and
the lift sling/tool attached to it, but take care
not to attach it to a weak fixing point.
28The engine will need to be supported
using an engine lift beam/support bar of the
type shown in Fig. 13.93. A strong wood or
metal beam resting on blocks in the front wing
drain channels will suffice, or alternatively use
an engine lift hoist and sling.
29Refer to Section 13 in this Chapter and
Section 2 in Chapter 7 for details and remove
the front driveshaft each side.
30Prise back the tabs of the retaining
washers, then undo the retaining nuts and
detach the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold. Detach the exhaust mounting
bracket (where applicable) and lower the
exhaust to allow access to the gearchange
linkages.
31Disconnect the gearchange control and
selector link rod balljoints (photo). Do not alter
their lengths or the adjustment setting will be
affected.
32Using a small diameter pin punch, drive the
retaining pins from the retaining clips which
secure the left-hand side underwing shield.
Prise free the clips and detach the shield.
33Undo the retaining bolts and remove the
lower cover plate from the flywheel housing
(photo).
34Position a trolley jack under the
transmission with an interposed block ofwood to protect the casing and spread the
load. Raise the jack to support the weight of
the transmission.
35Check that the weight of the engine is
securely supported, then unbolt and detach
the front engine mounting unit, then the rear
engine mounting unit.
36Unscrew and remove the remaining bolts
securing the transmission to the engine. As
they are removed, note the position of any
brackets or additional fixings secured by
these bolts (photo).
37Check around the transmission to ensure
that all fixings are detached from it and out of
the way, then carefully pull the transmission
free from the engine dowel pins. If possible
engage the aid of an assistant to help in
guiding or lowering the unit as it is removed.
As the unit is withdrawn from the engine, take
care not to place any strain on the input shaft.
Once the input shaft is clear of the clutch, the
transmission can be lowered and manoeuvred
from underneath the car. If available, lower the
unit onto a suitable crawler board to ease its
withdrawal from under the front end of the car.
38Dismantling and overhaul of this
transmission is not recommended. If the
transmission has covered a high mileage it is
likely that several internal components are in
need of renewal. The cumulative cost of
renewing all worn and defective components
will almost certainly make overhaul
uneconomical when compared with the cost
of a new or service exchange transmission
from a FIAT dealer or transmission specialist.39Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but note the following special
points.
a) Ensure that the engine and transmission
mating surfaces and the dowel pins are
clean and that all clutch components are
in good condition.
b) Apply a thin smear of molybdenum
disulphide grease to the splines of the
input shaft. Do not over-lubricate though
or the grease may work its way onto the
clutch friction surfaces and cause clutch
slip.
c) Raise the transmission so that it is in-line
with the engine, engage the end of the
input shaft into the clutch driven plate hub
and align the splines of each to enable the
transmission to be pushed home. It may
well be necessary to turn the flywheel a
fraction so that the splines align for
re-engagement
d) Do not fully tighten the engine and
transmission retaining bolts until all are
attached.
e) Tighten all retaining bolts and nuts of the
specified torque wrench settings (where
given).
f) Refer to Section 13 in this Chapter for
details on refitting the driveshafts.
g) Refill the transmission with the specified
quantity and grade of oil before lowering
the car to the ground (see paragraph 11).
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•97
Fig. 13.93 FIAT lift beam/support bar in
place to support the weight of the engine.
Inset shows lift hook engagement point -
1372 cc models (Sec 12)
12B.24B . . . and retaining bolts (arrowed)
on the 1372 cc ie engine12B.24A Starter motor electrical
connection . . .
12B.36 Transmission upper retaining bolts.
Note bracket under the left-hand bolt12B.33 Lower cover plate and retaining
bolts (arrowed)12B.31 Gear control and selector link rod
joints
13

47Loosen off the switch-to-column clamp
screw, disconnect the wiring connectors to
the switch and withdraw the switch from the
column (photos).
48Refit in the reverse order of removal, but
ensure that the lug of the switch aligns with
the slot in the column as it is fitted into
position. Check for satisfactory operation of
the switches on completion.
Instrument panel
(Turbo ie models) -
removal and refitting
Á
49The instrument panel on these models
incorporates an engine oil pressure gauge
and a turbo boost gauge. The latter is
connected directly to the inlet manifold.
50Apart from disconnecting the boost gauge
rubber hose, the instrument panel removal
and refitting procedure is as described in
Chapter 9 for the 1301 cc model or from
paragraph 57 in this Section for the 1372 cc
model.
51A digital electronic instrument panel is
available as an option on Turbo ie models.
The removal and refitting procedures differ
from analogue instrument panels in respect of
the electrical connections - a speedometer
drive cable is not used.
Facia-mounted switches
(1301 cc Turbo ie model) -
removal and refitting
Á
52Disconnect the battery.53Insert a thin-bladed screwdriver into the
joint between the switch block and the switch
block housing, to depress the plastic retaining
tabs. Do this carefully, otherwise the switch
block or casing will be damaged.
54Withdraw the switch block. Individual
switches can now be pushed out of the block.
Fibre optics are used to illuminate some
switches, these simply pull out of their
sockets (photos). The illumination bulb is
located on a crossmember found behind the
instrument pack. Removal of instruments/top
cover allows access.
55The switch housing can be removed after
extracting the fixing screws (photos).
56Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Instrument panel
(later models) -
removal and refitting
Á57Disconnect the battery negative lead.
58Unscrew and remove the two instrument
panel-to-facia retaining screws (photo).
59Remove the lower facia trim panel, which
is secured by two screws and a nut. Reach up
to the rear of the instrument panel to
disconnect the speedometer cable, then push
the panel from its recess in the facia.
Disconnect the multi-connectors from the rear
face of the panel and withdraw it (photo).
60Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Ensure that the speedometer cable is fully
engaged as the unit is refitted into position.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•107
15.47B . . . and remove the column switch15.47A Undo the retaining screw . . .15.45C . . . and the lower column
shroud . . .
15.58 Remove the retaining screws . . .15.55B Facia switch housing inner screw
removal on the 1031 cc Turbo ie model
15.54B Disconnecting a fibre optic cable
from its holder on the 1301 cc Turbo ie
model15.54A Switch block withdrawal on the
1301 cc Turbo ie model
15.55A Facia switch housing lower screw
removal on the 1301 cc Turbo ie model
13

As it is lifted, invert it and detach the washer
hose from the washer nozzle (photos).
97Where applicable, detach and remove the
washer reservoir from the recess in the front
of the windscreen to allow access to the wiper
motor.
98Unscrew and remove the two wiper motor
retaining screws. Lower and withdraw the
unit, then detach the cover from the motor.
Disconnect the wiring from the wiper motor
and withdraw it from the car (photos).
99Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Check for satisfactory operation of the wiper
and washer on completion.
Windscreen washer reservoir
(Turbo ie models) -
removal and refitting
Á
100Disconnect the battery negative lead.
101Remove the bonnet as described in
Chapter 12.
102Remove the wiper arm and blade as
described in Chapter 9, then unscrew and
remove the pivot nut.
103Undo the air inlet grille retaining screws
noting that two are not fitted with washers.
Where applicable, remove the washer
reservoir filler cap from the reservoir neck
protruding through the grille. Carefully prise
free and lift the air inlet grille clear of the body.
As it is lifted, invert it and detach the washer
hose from the washer nozzle.
104Syphon any remaining washer fluid from
the reservoir, then disconnect it and partiallywithdraw it from the recess in front of the
windscreen so that the wiring connection and
the washer supply hoses (to the windscreen
washer and the rear screen washer nozzles)
can be detached from the pump unit. Remove
the reservoir from the vehicle.
105Refit in the reverse order of removal. If the
washer pump unit was detached from the
reservoir, use a new seal washer when refitting
it. Top up the reservoir and check the screen
washers for satisfactory operation before
refitting the grille panel and the wiper arm/blade.
Tailgate wiper motor
(later models) -
removal and refitting
Á
106Although the tailgate wiper motor differs
in appearance, its removal and refitting
procedures are much the same as those
described for the earlier models in Section 27
of Chapter 9 (photo).
Radio
107All later models are now equipped with
power supply and speaker leads for radio
installation.
108Installation of the standard FIAT aerial
mounted on the windscreen pillar is shown
(photos).
Check control system sensors -
description
109The locations of the sensors referred to in
Chapter 9, Section 34 are given in the
following paragraphs, and their construction
differs according to their individual function.
Brake fluid level sensor
110This is mounted in the master cylinder
fluid reservoir cap, and comprises a pair of
reed switches in a glass bulb, and a magnet at
the end of a float.
111When the fluid level is correct, the
magnetic flux closes the switches. In the
event of a leak in the system, the magnet
moves away, the switches open and the
warning lamp comes on.
Brake disc pad wear sensor
112This is basically a circuit wire embedded
in the pad friction material. As the pad wears,
the wire is eventually exposed and contacts
the disc, whereupon the warning lamp comes
on to indicate that pad renewal is necessary.
Coolant level sensor
113This is located in the cooling system
expansion tank, and is of the reed switch
type, which operates in a similar way to that
described for the brake fluid sensor.
Engine oil level sensor
114This is located at the end of the dipstick,
and comprises a pair of switches at the end of a
bi-metallic strip, heated by electrical resistance.
115The heat is dissipated by the immersion
of the dipstick in the engine oil, so preventing
the bi-metallic strip from curving so much that
the switches would open.
116If the oil level drops, the heat is no longer
dissipated, the switches open, and the
warning lamp comes on.
13•110 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
15.108B Pillar lower screw for aerial15.108A Pillar upper screws for aerial15.106 Tailgate wiper motor - later model
15.98C . . . and detach the wiring
connector15.98B . . . separate the wiper motor from
its cover . . .15.98A Remove the wiper motor retaining
screws . . .