1973 OPEL GT-R engine

6A- 8 1973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
Actual adjustment is made by backing off adjusting
nut at the rocker arm until clearance exists between the valve stem, rocker arm, and lifter. Then slowly
tighten adjusting nut until clearance is eliminated.
When clearance is eliminated, turn adjusting nut one
full turn (clockwise). This positions the hydraulic
piston of the hydraulic lifter mid-point in its total
available travel, and no further adjustment is re-
quired.
MAJOR REPAIR
ENGINE ASSEMBLY REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION
Removal (Opel 1900 and Manta)’
The engine assembly on the Opel 1900 and Manta
can be removed together with the transmission
through the top of the engine compartment.
1. Remove hood (scribe hood hinge to hood mount-
ing location).
2. Disconnect battery negative cable.
3. Drain coolant at lower radiator hose.
4. Remove upper and lower radiator hoses.
5. Remove radiator and fan
shrbud.
6. Disconnect heater hoses.
7. Disconnect brake booster
vacuum hose.
8. Remove air cleaner.
9. Disconnect electrical connections and accelerator
linkage. 10. Remove console.
11. Remove shift lever boot, plate, and shift lever.
12. Raise car on hoist.
13. Disconnect fuel line at pump.
14. Remove front stone shield.
15. Disconnect speedo-cable, back-up light switch,
and clutch cable.
16. Remove drive shaft. I
17. Disconnect exhaust pipe
ar$l bell housing sup-
port.
18. Disconnect transmission support. See Figure
6A-7. 19. Remove engine mount bolts. See Figure
6A-8.
20. Attach hoist chains.
21. Lift engine and transmission assembly out of car.
Figure 6A-7 Transmission Support Bolts . Opel 1900
and Manta Series
Figure
6A-B Engine Mount Bolts - Opel 1900 and
Manta Series
Removal (GT)
The removal and installation of the 1.9 liter engine is only possible towards the floor and from below
Fig, 6A-9 Left Front Engine Suspension with Cross
Member (GT)

ENGINE MECHANICAL AND MOUNTS6A- 9
The engine does not rest on the front suspension
cross member as in the Opel 1900 and Manta but on
a separate cross member. On removal and installa-
tion of the engine the front suspension cross member
need not be detached.
Fig. 6A-10 Right Front Engine Suspension with Cross
Member
(GT)1. Disconnect battery negative cable,
2. Remove air cleaner.
3. Drain radiator coolant by disconnecting lower
radiator hose. Disconnect upper radiator hose. See
Figure 6A-11. Radiator need not be disconnected.
4. Disconnect all electrical connections:
a. Coil wire to distributor.
b. Wires from alternator. Remove unit and bracket.
c. Battery positive cable at starter switch.
d. Oil pressure switch wires at cylinder block.
e. Wires from starter solenoid.
5. Remove vacuum hoses at tee mounted to intake
manifold. Remove tee from manifold to avoid inter-
ference during engine lowering.
6. Remove throttle linkage and carburetor.
7. Disconnect heater hoses.
8. Disconnect water valve bracket to manifold,
9. Remove gear shift lever.
10. Using suitable equipment lift up engine so that
front engine mounts are somewhat relieved.Figure 6A.1
1 Radiator Hose Clamp Location
11. Raise vehicle, both front and rear end. A two post
axle type hoist
IS recommended for this operation.
12. Disconnect fuel line at fuel pump and plug. Be
sure fuel line is disconnected from any engine and
transmission clips.
13. Disconnect speedometer cable from transmis-
sion.14. Disconnect clutch cable.
15. Disconnect drive shaft at rear universal joint and
remove.
16. Disconnect exhaust at manifold.
17. Remove tailpipe and mufIler hangers.
18. Remove ground strap from engine to side rail.
19. Detach transmission cross member from trans-
mission and frame. See Figure 6A-12.
20. Detach engine cross member from engine and
frame.21. Carefully lower engine and transmission and
remove from underneath vehicle.

6A- 101973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
Fig. 6A.12 Transmission Cross MemberInstallation (Opel 1900 and Manta)1. Lower engine and transmissior assembly into car.
2. Install components as
remov&d in steps .1 through
19 above.
Installation (GT)1. Install bell housing, transmission and starter.
2. Using suitable equipment raise assembly into vehi-
cle.
3. Install components as removed in steps 1 thru 21.
ENGINE OIL PAN REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Removal (Opel 1900 and Manta)To remove the engine oil pan, a device similar to the
one illustrated in Figure 6A-14 can be made and used
to support the front of the engine. This particular
device was made up using hardwood, bolts, and
chain.
1. Assemble chains to engine.
Figure 6A-14 Engine Support Tool
- Opel 1900 and Manta.

ENGINE MECHANICAL AND MOUNTS6A- 11
a. Attach left chain to alternator support rear bolt.
b. Bolt right chain to existing threaded hole at lower
right front of engine.
2. Assemble loose ends of chain to support device J-bolts and adjust to remove engine weight from motor
mounts.
3. Remove the two motor mount bracket to motor
mount retaining nuts.
4. Remove the two front suspension to frame rail bolt
retaining nuts.
5. Remove nut and bolt at lower end of steering shaft
U-joint.
6. With a floor jack under the center of the front
suspension cross member, raise car high enough for
wheels and suspension assembly to be rolled from
under car.
7. Position jack stands under both front jack brackets
on underbody to support car in this position.
8. Remove both front cross member support to frame
attaching bolts.
9. Remove brake pipe to brake hose retaining clips
at frame rails and disconnect brake hose from brake
pipes. Use an absorbent material or suitable con-
tainer for the brake fluid that will drain out.
10. Lower the front suspension assembly and remove
from under car.
11. Drain engine oil and remove oil pan and gasket.
Installation (Opel 1900 and Manta)1. Apply a light bead of sealer to the clean sealing
surfaces of the oil pan and affix a new gasket.
2. Bolt oil pan and gasket assembly to engine block.
3. Roll front suspension and floor jack under car and
raise into position careful to pilot the cross member
to frame rail attaching bolts and steering shaft to
their respective locations.
4. Install cross member’support to frame attaching
bolts and torque to 22 lb.ft.
5. Connect brake hose to brake pipes and install
retaining clips.
6. Bleed front brake system. Maintain brake fluid1Wd.
7. Remove jack stands and lower car.8. Install suspension to frame rail bolt retaining nuts.
9. Release and remove engine supporting device.
10. Install motor mount bracket to motor mount
retaining nuts.
11. Install steering shaft U-joint lower bolt and nut.
12. Replace engine oil.
Removal (GT Series)1. Support engine in vehicle using Tool J-23375. See
Figure 6A- 15.
Figure 6A-15 Engine Holding Fixture
Install tool by removing upper engine mount nut and
installing fixture. Replace nut and tighten. The en-
gine will now be supported by the tool, between the
frame rails. The front suspension need not be
removed on GT Models.
2. Drain oil.
3. Remove oil pan bolts and remove oil.
Installation (GT Series)1. Replace oil pan and bolts.
2. Remove engine holding fixture and replace engine
mounts.
3. Replace engine oil.

6A- 121973 OPEL SERVICE MANUALINTAKE AND EXHAUST MANIFOLD REMOVAL
AND
INSTALLATION
Removal1. Disconnect battery.
2. Remove air cleaner.
3. Disconnect throttle linkage at carburetor.
4. Disconnect vacuum advance line at carburetor.
5. Remove fuel line at carburetor inlet.
6. Remove positive crankcase ventilation hose at
rocker arm cover.
7. Disconnect E.G.R. lines from carburetor and in-
take manifold.
8. Disconnect exhaust pipe.
9. Remove six bolts attaching manifold assembly to
cylinder head and remove manifold and carburetor
as an assembly. Discard manifold gasket.
To separate intake and exhaust, manifold, remove
carburetor and four bolts using Tool J-23016, attach-
ing intake manifold to exhaust manifold. Always in-
stall a new manifold intermediate gasket when the
manifolds are separated.
Installation1. Install new manifold gasket and place manifold in
position.
2. Install manifold bolts. New manifold to cylinder
head gasket must be installed whenever a manifold
is removed.
3. When installing the manifold, start with the No.
1 and No. 2 bolts. See Figure 6A-16. Gradually
tighten both bolts until snug. Then continue with the
rest of the bolts in the sequence illustrated in Figure6A-16. Torque bolts to 33 lb. ft.
Figure 6A-16 Manifold
Bolt Tightening Sequence4. Connect parts removed in Steps 1 thru 8 above.
CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Removal1. Drain coolant from radiator and block. Loosen
drain plug on right side of engine to avoid coolant
entering into cylmder bores. Drain plug is located onthe right rear of cylinder block above oil pressure
switch.2. Remove hoses from thermostat housing. Collect
coolant as it contains anti-freeze.
3. Remove 6 intake and exhaust manifold attaching
bolts and swing assembly aside.
4. Remove spark plug wires from plugs.
5. Remove bracket bolt holding spark plug wires
away from cylinder head.
6. Remove rocker arm cover.
7. Remove 10 cylinder head bolts using 12 MM ser-
rated drive J-22915, and 2 cylinder head to timing
chain cover bolts with a 6MM hex head wrench. See
Figure 6A- 17.
Figure 6A-17 Serrated Bits
8. Remove three bolts attaching plate to front of
cylinder head.
9. Remove plastic screw from end of camshaft.
10. Remove 3 bolts attaching camshaft sprocket to
cylinder head. Slide sprocket off of camshaft and
remove head. Place head on bench supported at each
end by a block of wood to prevent damage to valves.
Installation1. Install in reverse procedure to removal, paying
particular attention to the following:

RECESSES VERTICAL FOR
REMOVAL OF LEFT ROW OF
CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS6A-16
Figure 6A-18 Recesses in Camshaft
2. Clean piston tops and combustion chambers.
Thoroughly clean all gasket surfaces on the cylinder
block and cylinder head.
3. Lightly lubricate cylinder walls with engine oil.
Install coolant passage rubber gasket ring in timing
case. See Figure 6A-19.I. TIMING CHAIN
2. CAMSHAFT SPROCKET
3. SPROCKET TIMING MARK
4. TIMING CASE5. SUPPORT TIMING MARK
6. SUPPORT
7. CYLINDER BLOCK
6. RUBBER GASKET RING6A-19
Figure 6A-19 Coolant Passage Rubber Gasket Ring in
Timing CaseENGINE MECHANICAL AND MOUNTS
6A- 13
4. Apply silastic sealer or equivalent to both sides of
the cylinder head gasket where the gasket mates with
the timing chain cover, place new cylinder head gas-
ket onto cylinder block.
5. Install cylinder head. Be careful to place head
squarely over guide pins.
Rotate camshaft so that recesses are in vertical posi-
tion to allow installation of left row of bolts.
6. Install 10 head bolts. Tighten the bolts a little at
a time in the sequence shown in Figure 6A-20. Give
bolts a final torque in the same sequence. Torque to
72 lb. ft. (cylinder head cold). Use same procedure
for cylinder head to timing chain cover bolts with
final torque at 17
lb.ft. See Figure 6A-20. These
torques apply to lightly oiled threads.
Figure 6A-20 Cylinder Head Bolt Tightening
sequence7. Slide camshaft sprocket with assembled chain onto
camshaft and guide pin and fasten with bolts. Install
nylon adjusting screw. After sprocket has been at-
tached to camshaft, recheck alignment to see that
chain has not slipped. Close front access hole.
8. Check camshaft end clearance between cover and
nylon screw with feeler gauge. Clearance should be
.004” - .008” Excess clearance can be eliminated by
carefully readjusting cover with a suitable drift.
Reconditioning Valves and Guides1. Remove cylinder head. Place on clean surface.
Place head on bench supported at each end by a
block of wood to prevent damage to valves.
2. Using suitable spring compressor, such as J-8062,
compress valve spring and remove cap retainers. Re-
lease tool and remove spring and cap. See Figure 6A-
21.3. Remove valves. Place valves in numerical order so
that they can be reinstalled in original location.
4. Remove all carbon from combustion chambers,
piston heads, and valves. When using scrapers or

ENGINE MECHANICAL AND MOUNTS6A- 15New inlet valves must not be refaced or lapped with
grinding compound.The correct angle for the intake
and exhaust valve head is 44 degrees.10. Install cylinder head.
11. Adjust valve clearance. See MAINTENANCE
AND ADJUSTMENTS.
7. Inspect valve guides. Worn or pitted guides can be
reamed to accept valves with oversize stems. Over-
size valves are occasionally used in production.
Oversize valves are marked
’ 1 u “2” or “A” and are
stamped into the valve stem end and also stamped
near spark plug hole. See Figure 6A-22.
Replacing Rocker Arm Studs1. When replacing rocker arm studs become
neces-
sary, remove air cleaner, rocker arm cover and
rocker arm.
8. Reseat valve seats in cylinder head in the following
sequence:
Intake
NOTE:The rocker arm studs are screwed into the
cylinder head. A tapered part of the stem serves to
a void stud loosening.With 45 degrees cutter, remove burnt structure until
a metallic bright seat is obtained. Lightly coat valve
head with red lead, insert it into guide and turn it
under light pressure several times back and forth.
Thereby a contact pattern is obtained and the seat
width can be measured. If valve does not seat per-
fectly all around, lightly recut valve seat to the estab-
lished seat width of
,049” - .059” with 30 degrees
correction cutter.
ExhaustThe directions for reconditioning intake valve seats
apply in principle also to exhaust valve seat recondi-
tioning with the exception that the valve seat width
should be
.063-,073 in. and different cutters are em-
ployed.
NOTE:
: OTse new valve seals whenever
valves are reconditioned.9. Lube valves with engine oil and reinstall valves,
valve springs, caps and cap retainers using J-8062.
Install valve spring with closely wound coils toward
cylinder head. See Figure
6A-24.2. Attach vise grip pliers to stud being removed and
remove from cylinder head.
3. Screw in new stud. Seat tapered part of stud by
striking stud end with a rubber hammer.
4. Place two turned down rocker arm nuts on
threaded part of stud.
5. Torque stud into cylinder head to 29
lb.ft.
Valve Lifter ServiceThe valve lifters can be removed after removing
rocker arm cover and rocker arms.No oversize lifters have been released due to the
insignificant wear of the valve lifters and cylinder
head guides.
Amply oil respective parts and install in reverse se-
quence to removal.
Carry out hydraulic valve lifter adjustment as ou-
tlined in MAINTENANCE AND ADJUST-
MENTS.
VALVE
I SPRING
CLOSE
WOUND
COILS
TOWARD
HEAD6A-24
Figure 6A-24 Valve SpringCONNECTING ROD BEARINGSA connecting rod bearing consists of two halves or
shells which are alike and interchangeable in rod and
cap. When the shells are placed in rod and cap the
ends extend slightly beyond the parting surfaces so
that when rod bolts are tightened the shells will be
clamped tightly in place to insure positive seating
and to prevent turning. Theends of shells must never
be tiled flush with parting surface of rod or cap.
If a precision type connecting rod bearing becomes
noisy or is worn so that clearance on crankpin is
excessive, a new bearing of proper size must be se-
lected and installed since no provision is made for
adjustment. Under no circumstances should the con-necting rod or cap be filed to adjust the bearing
clearance.

6A- 161973 OPEL SERVICE MANUALInspection of Connecting Rod Bearings and
Crankshaft JournalsRemove oil pan.
After removal of oil pan, disconnect two connecting
rods at a time from crankshaft and inspect the bear-
ings and crankpin journals. While,tuming crankshaft
it is necessary to
t&porarily reconnect the rods to
crankshaft to avoid possibility of damaging the jour-
nals through contact with loose rods.
If connecting rod bearings are chipped or scored they
should be replaced. If bearings
are in good physical
condition check for proper clearance on crankpins as
described under, checking clear$nce and selecting
replacement connecting rod beartngs.
If crankpin journals are scored or ridged, the crank-
shaft must be replaced, or reground for undersize
bearings, to insure satisfactory life of connecting rod
bearings. Slight roughness may be polished out withfine grit polishing cloth thoroughly wetted with en-
gine oil. Burrs may be honed off with a fine oil stone.
Use an outside micrometer to check crankpins for
out- of-round. If crankpins are mpre than
,002” out-
of- round, satisfactory life of new ,bearings cannot be
expected.
Checking Clearance and Selecting Replacement
Connecting Rod BearingsService bearings are furnished in standard size and
several undersizes. The clearance of connecting rod
(and crankshaft) bearings may be checked by use of
Plastigage, Type PG-1 (green), or equivalent, which
is soluble in oil.
1. Remove connecting rod cap with bearing shell.
Wipe off oil from bearing and crankpin journal, also
blow oil out of hole in crankshaft.
2. Place a piece of the plastic-type gauge material
Figure 6A-25 Checking Bearing
Cleatance WithPlastic-Type Gaugelengthwise along the bottom center of the lower bear-
ing shell (Figure 6A-25, view A), then install cap
with shell and tighten nuts to 36 lb. ft. Do not turn
crankshaft with gauge type material in bearing.
3. Remove bearing cap with bearing shell, the flat-
tened piece of gauge will be found adhering to either
the bearing shell or the crankpin. Do not remove it.
4. Using the scale printed on the envelope, measure
the flattened piece of gauge at its widest point. The
number within the graduation which closely corre-
sponds to the width of the gauge, indicates the bear-
ing clearance in thousandths of an inch. See Figure6A-25, View B.
5. The desired clearance with a new bearing is.0006”- .0025”. If bearing has been in service it is
advisable to install a new bearing if the clearance
exceeds .003”, however if bearing is in good condi-
tion and is not being checked because of bearing
noise, it is not necessary to replace the bearing.
6. After the proper size bearing has been selected,
clean off the gauge, oil thoroughly, reinstall cap with
bearing shell and tighten nuts to 36 lb. ft.
CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS AND SEALS
Replacement of Crankshaft BearingsA crankshaft bearing consists of two halves or shells
which are identical and are interchangeable in cap
and crankcase. All crankshaft bearings except the
rear main bearing are identical. The crankshaft end
thrust is taken up the rear (No. 5) main bearing.
Figure 6A-26 Engine Crankshaft Bearings
When the shells are placed in crankcase and bearing
cap, the ends extend slightly beyond the parting
sur-faces so that when cap bolts are tightened the shells
will be clamped tightly in place to insure positive