BRAKES 5-12
VIEW B
Fig.
21—Parking Brake System-Chevy II
2.
Remove return spring at equalizer.
3.
Remove equalizer check nut, and separate cable
stud from equalizer.
4.
Remove clamp from underbody guide bracket. (Con-
vertible models only, also remove clamp from guide
bracket at underbody support.)
5. Remove cable retainer from underbody bracket.
6. Compress expanded conduit locking fingers at toe
pan,
remove cable ball from idler lever, and with-
draw cable from car.
Installation
1.
Position cable ball and conduit tip through cutout
in toe pan.. Make sure conduit locking fingers are
fully expanded and secured in cutout, then position
cable ball in idler lever clevis.
2.
Present parking brake lever to one notch.
3.
P}ace retainer in conduit groove so that conduit
end is secure in underbody bracket.
4.
Position cable in guide bracket(s) and secure cable
in bracket with clamp(s).
5. Place one check nut on cable stud and insert stud
into equalizer, then place second check nut on stud.
6. Connect cable return spring.
7. Adjust parking brake as outlined in this section.
8. Connect positive battery cable.
Rear Cable
Removal
1.
Place parking brake lever in released position.
2.
Disconnect front cable return spring at equalizer.
3.
Remove check nut from front cable stud, withdraw
stud from equalizer, and remove equalizer from
rear cable.
4.
Remove retainers from grooves in rear cable con-
duit, and remove cable from bracket.
5. Remove cable from center body bumper bracket
and spring clip at shock absorber lower mount.
6. Back off rear service brakes sufficiently to allow
for drum removal.
7. Remove both rear wheels and drums.
8. Remove secondary brake shoe return spring.
9. Remove secondary brake shoe hold-down spring
and pin.
10.
Remove cable end from parking brake actuating
lever.
11.
Compress expanded conduit locking fingers at flange
plate entry hole and withdraw cable.
CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL
BRAKES 5-17
mended shoe and lining assemblies. Otherwise,
serious fade or failure may occur.
1.
Inspect new linings and make certain there are no
nicks or burrs on bonding material on shoe edge
where contact is made with brake flange plate or
on any of the contact surfaces.
NOTE: Keep hands clean while handling brake
shoes.
Do not permit oil or grease to come in
contact with linings.
2.
If working on rear brakes, lubricate parking brake
cable.
3.
On rear brakes only, lubricate fulcrum end of park-
ing brake lever and the bolt with brake lube, then
attach lever to secondary shoe with bolt, spring
washer, lock washer and nut. Make sure that lever
moves freely.
4.
Before installation make certain the adjusting screw
is clean and lubricated properly.
NOTE: Loose adjustment may occur from an
adjusting screw that is not properly operating.
If the lubrication in the adjusting screw as-
sembly is contaminated or destroyed, the ad-
justing screw should be thoroughly cleaned and
lubricated.
5.
Connect brake shoes together with adjusting screw
spring, then place adjusting screw, socket and nut
in position.
CAUTION: Make sure the proper adjusting
screw is used ("L" for left side of vehicle,
"R"
for right side of vehicle). The star wheel
should only be installed with the star wheel
nearest to the secondary shoe and the adjusting
screw spring inserted to prevent interference
with the star wheel.
6. On rear wheels connect parking brake cable to lever.
7.
Secure the primary brake shoe (short lining—faces
forward) first with the hold-down pin and spring
using a pair of pliers. Engages shoes with the wheel
cylinder connecting links.
8. Install and secure the actuator assembly and second-
ary brake shoe with the hold-down pin and spring
using a pair of needle nose pliers. On rear wheels
position parking brake strut and strut spring.
9. Install guide plate over anchor pin.
10.
Install the wire link.
NOTE: Do not hook the wire link over the
anchor pin stud with the regular spring hook
tool. This may damage the cylinder boot seals.
Fasten the wire link to the actuator assembly ;
first, then place over the anchor pin stud by
hand while holding the adjuster assembly in the
full down position.
11.
Install actuator return spring.
NOTE: Do not pry actuator lever to install re-
turn spring. Ease it in place using the end of a
screw driver or other suitable flat tool.
12.
If old brake pull back (return) springs are nicked,
distorted or if strength is doubtful, install new
springs.
13.
Hook springs in shoes using Tool J-8049 by in-
stalling the primary spring from the shoe over the
anchor pin and then spring from secondary shoe
over the wire link end.
14.
Pry shoes away from backing plate and lubricate
shoe contact surfaces with a thin coating of brake
lube (fig. 29).
CAUTION:
facings.
Be careful to keep lubricant off
Fig.
29—Backing Plate Contact Surfaces
15.
After completing installation, make certain the actu-
ator lever functions easily by hand operating the
self-adjusting feature (fig. 30).
1.6. Follow the above procedure for all wheels.
17.
Adjust the service brakes and parking brake as
outlined under "Maintenance and Adjustments" in
this section.
Metallic Linings
Metallic brake linings which use special heat resistant
brake springs are available as an option. Service opera-
tions are the same as for standard brakes; however,
when new linings are installed, the linings should be
seated as described below.
NOTE: Brake shoes with metallic linings re-
quire specially finished brake drums (honed to a
20 micro-inch finish). Metallic linings are not
recommended for service replacement on ve-
hicles with standard brake drums that have not
been honed to specified finish.
Seating Metallic Linings
After the brakes have been adjusted, the following
recommended "lining seating" is as follows:
1.
Make six to eight stops from 30 MPH with moderate
pedal pressure to aid in seating and to mbdulate
any tendency to dive.
CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL
SECTION 6
ENGINE
CONTENTS
OF
THIS SECTION
Page
Engine Tune Up
6-1
Torque Sequence
Engine Mechanical
(In
Line)
6-12
Special Tools
. .
Engine Mechanical (V8)
6-24
Page
6-39
6-40
ENGINE TUNE UP
INDEX
Page
General Description
. 6-1
Mechanical Checks and Adjustments
6-1
Spark Plug Removal
6-1
Test Compression
6-1
Service and Install Spark Plugs
6-2
Service Ignition System
6-3
Service Battery
and
Battery Cables
6-5
Service Delcotron
and
Regulator
6-5
Service
Fan
Belt
6-5
Service Manifold Heat Valve
6-5
Tighten Manifold
6-5
Service Fuel Lines
and
Fuel Filter ..........
6-6
Service Cooling System
6-6
Check and Adjust Accelerator Linkage
6-6
Service Crankcase Ventilation
6-6
Service
Air
Injection Reactor System
6-6
Choke Adjustment
6-7
Page
Instrument Cheek-Out
6-7
Instrument Hook-Up.
. 6*7
Check and Adjust Dwell
6-7
Check Dwell Variation
6-7
Check and Adjust Timing
6-8
Adjust Idle Speed
and
Mixture
6-8
Additional Checks and Adjustments
. 6-8
Testing Crankcase Ventilation Valve
. 6-8
Testing Cranking Voltage
6-8
Cylinder Balance Test
. 6-8
Battery
6-8
Ignition
; 6-8
Carburetor
6-11
Fuel Pump
6-11
Cooling System
. 6-11
Cylinder Head Torque and Valve Adjustment
..... 6-11
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
The engine tune up
is
important
to the
modern automo-
tive engine with
its
vastly improved power and perform-
ance.
The
higher compression ratios, improved electri-
cal systems
and
other advances
in
design, make today1 s
engines more sensitive
and
have
a
decided effect
on
power, performance and fuel consumption.
It
is
seldom advisable
to
attempt
a
tune up
by
correc-
tion
of one or two
items only. Time will normally
be
saved
and
more lasting results assured
if the
technician
will follow
a
definite
and
thorough procedure
of
analysis
and correction
of all
items affecting power, performance
and economy.
The tune
up
will
be
performed
in
two parts.
The
first
part will consist
of
visual and mechanical checks and
ad-
justments;
the
second part will consist
of
an instrument
checkout that
can be
performed with
any one of the
units
of service equipment available
for
this purpose. Always
follow
the
instructions provided
by the
manufacturer
of
the particular equipment
to be
used.
Additional checks
and
adjustments
are
included
in the
latter part
of
this section
for use as
required. Many
of
these operations
can be
used
to
isolate and correct trou-
ble located during
the
tune up. Where conditions
are
UB-
covered requiring major corrective action, refer
to the
appropriate section
of
this manual
or the
Passenger
Chassis Overhaul Manual
for
detailed service informa-
tion.
Typical illustrations
and
procedures
are
used except
where specific illustrations
or
procedures
are
necessary
to clarify
the
operation. Illustrations showing bench
op-
erations
are
used
for
clarification however
all
operations
can
be
performed
on the
vehicle.
MECHANICAL CHECKS
AND
ADJUSTMENTS
Spark Plug Removal
Remove any foreign matter from around spark plugs
by
blowing
out
with compressed
air,
then disconnect wires
and remove plugs.
Test Compression
(Fig. 1)
The compression check
is
important because
an
engine
with
low or
uneven compression cannot
be
tuned success-
fully.
It is
essential that improper compression
be cor-
rected before proceeding with
the
engine tune
up.
1.
Remove
air
cleaner
and
block throttle
and
choke
in
wide open position.
2.
Hook
up
starter remote control cable
and
insert
compression gauge firmly
in
spark plug port.
CAUTION: Whenever
the
engine
is
cranked
CHEVROLET
C*
IS SERVICE MANUAL
ENGINE 6-15
2.
Install rocker arms, rocker arm balls and rocker
arm
nuts.
\
Tighten rocker arm nuts until all lash is
eliminated. .
3.
Adjust valves when lifter is on base circle of cam-
shaft lobe as follows:
a. Mark distributor housing, with chalk, at each cyl-
inder position (plug wire) then disconnect plug
wires at spark plugs and coil and remove distri-
butor cap and plug wire assembly (if not previ-
ously done).
b.
Crank engine until distributor rotor points to
number one cylinder position and breaker points
are open. Both valves on number one cylinder
may now be adjusted.
c. Back out adjusting nut until lash is felt at the push
rod then turn in adjusting nut until all lash is re-
moved. This can be determined by checking push
rod side play while turning adjusting nut (fig. 2L).
When play has been removed, turn adjusting nut
in one full additional turn (to center lifter
plunger).
d. Adjust the remaining valves, one cylinder at a
time,
in the same manner.
4.
Install distributor cap and spark plug wire assembly.
5.
Install rocker arm cover as outlined.
6. Adjust carburetor idle speed and mixture.
VALVE LIFTERS
Hydraulic valve lifters very seldom require attention.
The lifters are extremely simple in design readjustments
are not necessary, and servicing of the lifters requires
only that care and cleanliness be exercised in the han-
dling of parts.
Locating Noisy Lifters
Locate a noisy valve lifter by using a piece of garden
Fig.
2L - Valve Adjustment
hose approximately four feet in length. Place one end of
the hose near the end of each intake and exhaust valve
with the other end of the hose to the ear. In this manner,
the sound is localized making it easy to determine which
lifter is at fault.
Another method is to place a finger on the face of the
valve spring retainer. If the lifter is not functioning
properly, a distinct shock will be felt when the valve
returns to its seat.
The general types of valve lifter noise are as follows:
1.
Hard Rapping Noise--Usually caused by the plunger
becoming tight in the bore of the lifter body to such
an extent that the return spring can no longer push
the plunger back up to working position. Probable
causes are:
a. Excessive varnish or carbon deposit causing
abnormal stickiness.
b.
Galling or "pickup" between plunger and bore of
lifter body, usually caused by an abrasive piece
of dirt or metal wedging between plunger and
lifter body.
2.
Moderate Rapping Noise--Probable causes are:
a. Excessively high leakdown rate.
b.
Leaky check valve seat.
c. Improper adjustment.
3.
General Noise Throughout the Valve Train—This
will, in almost all cases, be a definite indication of
insufficient oil supply, or improper adjustment.
4.
Intermittent Clicking—Probable causes are:
a. A microscopic piece of dirt momentarily caught
between ball seat and check valve ball.
b.
In rare cases, the ball itself may be
out-of-
round or have a flat spot.
c. Improper adjustment.
In most cases where noise exists in one or more lifters
all lifter units should be removed, disasssmbled, cleaned
in a solvent, reassembled, and reinstalled in the engine.
If dirt, varnish, carbon, etc. is shown to exist in one unit,
it more than likely exists in all the units, thus it would
only be, a matter of time before all lifters caused trouble.
Removal
1.
Remove valve mechanism as outlined.
2.
Mark distributor housing, with chlak, at each cylin-
der position (plug wire) then disconnect plug wires at
spark plugs and coil and remove distributor cap and
plug wire assembly.
3.
Crank engine until distributor rotor points to number
one position, then disconnect distributor primary lead
at coil and remove distributor.
4.
Remove push rod covers (discard gaskets).
5.
Remove valve lifters.
NOTE: Place valve lifters in a rack so they
may be reinstalled in the same location.
Installation
1.
Install valve lifters.
NOTE:
Whenever new valve lifters are being
installed, coat foot of valve lifters with Molykote
or its equivalent.
2.
Install push rod covers, using new gaskets, and
torque bolts to specifications.
3.
Install distributor, positioning rotor to number one
cylinder position, then connect primary lead at coil.
4.
Install and adjust valve mechanism as outlined.
CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL
ENGINE 6-29
an extent that the return spring can no longer push
the plunger back up to working position. Probable
causes are:
a. Excessive varnish or carbon deposit causing ab-
normal stickiness.
b.
(Sailing or "pick-up" between plunger and bore of
lifter body, usually caused by an abrasive piece of
dirt or metal wedging between plunger and lifter
body.
2.
Moderate Rapping Noise--Probable causes are:
a. Excessively high leakdown rate.
b.
Leaky check valve seat.
c. Improper adjustment.
3.
General Noise Throughout the Valve Train-rThis
will, in almost all cases, be a definite indication of
insufficient oil supply, or improper adjustment.
4.
Intermittent Clicking—Probable causes are:
a. A microscopic piece of dirt momentarily caught
between ball seat and check valve ball.
b.
In rare cases, the ball itself may be out-of-round
or have a flat spot.
c. Improper adjustment.
In most cases where noise exists in one or more lifters
all lifter units should be removed, disassembled, cleaned
in a solvent, reassembled, and reinstalled in the engine.
If dirt, corrosion, carbon, etc. is shown to exist in one
unit, it more than likely exists in all the units, thus it
would only be a matter of time before all lifters caused
trouble.
Removal
1.
Remove intake manifold as outlined.
2.
Remove valve mechanism as outlined.
3.
Remove valve lifters.
NOTE: Place valve lifters in a rack so they
may be reinstalled in the same location.
Installation
1.
Install valve lifters.
NOTE: Whenever new valve lifters are being
installed coat foot of valve lifters with Molykote
or its equivalent.
2.
Install intake manifold as outlined.
3.
Install and adjust valve mechanism as outlined.
VALVE STEM OIL SEAL AND/OR VALVE SPRING
Replacement
1.
Remove rocker arm cover(s) as outlined.
2.
Remove spark plug, rocker arm and push rod on the
cylinders to be serviced.
3.
Apply compressed air to the spark plug hole to hold
tl*e valves in place.
NOTE: A tool to apply air to the cylinder is
available through local jobbers or may be manu-
factured. In manufacturing this Tool a AC-46N
Spark Plug or its equivalent is recommended.
This will make the Tool universal for all
Chevrolet engines. Chisel the spark plug as
shown, then drive the porcelain out of the plug
by tapping the center electrode against a hard
block. Using a 3/8" pipe tap, cut threads in the
remaining portion of the spark plug and assem-
ble as shown (fig. 6V).
Fig.
6V - Air Adapter Tool
4.
Using Tool J-5892, to compress the valve spring, re-
move the valve locks, valve cap, and valve spring and
damper (fig. 7V).
5.
Remove valve stem oil seal.
6. Remove as follows:
283, 327 and 350 eu. in.
Engines
a. To replace, set the valve spring and damper,
valve shield and valve cap in place. The close
coiled end of the spring is installed against the
cylinder head.
b.
Compress the spring with Tool J-5892 and install
oil seal in the lower groove of the stem, making
sure the seal is flat and not twisted.
NOTE: A light coat of oil on the seal will help
prevent twisting.
Fig.
7V - Compressing Valve Spring
CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL
SECTION 6K
ENGINE COOLING
INDEX
Page
General Description . . . 6K-1
Maintenance and Adjustments 6K-1
Coolant Level 6K-1
Coolant System Checks 6K-1
Periodic Maintenance 6K-2
Cleaning 6K-2
Reverse Flushing 6K-2
Radiator 6K-2
Page
Cylinder Block and Cylinder Head 6K-2
Hot Water Heater 6K-2
Fan Belt . 6K-2
Adjustment ....". 6K-2
Thermostat . 6K-2
Replacement 6K-2
Water Pump. . . . 6K-3
Removal 6K-3
Installation 6K-3
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
A pressure cooling system is provided for on all
models by a pressure type radiator cap (fig. 1). The
pressure type radiator cap used is designed to hold a
pressure above atmospheric pressure in the cooling
system. Excessive pressure is relieved by a valve within
the cap that opens to radiator overflow.
The water pump is a ball bearing, centrifugal vane
impeller type. It requires no care other than to make
certain the air vent at the top of the housing and the drain
holes in the bottom do not become plugged with dirt or
grease. Removal and installation of the water pump is
covered in this section. For overhaul procedures of the
water pump refer to Section 6K of the Passenger Chassis
Overhaul Manual.
For radiator, refer to Section 13 of this manual For
radiator shroud, refer to Section 11 of this manual.
Fig.
I—Pressure Radiator Cap
MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS
Coolant Level
The radiator coolant level should only be checked when
the engine is cool, particularly on cars equipped with air
conditioning. If the radiator cap is removed from a hot
cooling system, serious personal injury may result
The cooling system fluid level should be maintained
one inch below the bottom of the filler neck of the radia-
tor when cooling system is cold, or at the bottom of the
filler neck when the system is warm. It is very impor-
tant that the correct fluid level be maintained. The seal-
ing ability of the radiator cap is affected when the cooling
level is too high.
All passenger car cooling systems are pressurized
with a pressure cap which permits safe engine operation
at cooling temperatures of
up
to 247°F.
When the radiator cap is removed or loosened, the
system pressure drops to atmospheric, and the heat
which had caused water temperature to be higher than
212°F, will be dissipated by conversion of water to
steam. Inasmuch as the steam may form in the engine
water passages, it will blow coolant out of the radiator
upper hose and top tank, necessitating coolant replace-
ment Engine operating temperatures higher than the
normal boiling point of water are in no way objectionable
so long as the coolant level is satisfactory when the
engine is cooL
Upon repeated coolant loss, the pressure radiator cap
and seat should be checked for sealing ability. Also, the
cooling system should be checked for loose hose con-
nections, defective hoses, gasket leaks, etc.
Coolant System Checks
1.
Test for restriction in the radiator, by warming the
engine up and then turning the engine off and feeling
the radiator. The radiator should be hot at the top
and warm at the bottom, with an even temperature
rise from bottom to top. Cold spots in the radiator
indicate clogged sections.
2.
Water pump operation may be checked by running the
engine while squeezing the upper radiator hose. A
pressure surge should be felt Check for a plugged
vent-hole in pump.
NOTE:
A defective head gasket may allow ex-
haust gases to leak into the cooling system.
This is particularly damaging to the cooling
system as the gases combine with the water to
form acids which are particularly harmful to
the radiator and engine.
3.
To check for exhaust leaks into the cooling system,
drain the system until the water level stands just
above the top of the cylinder head, then disconnect
the upper radiator hose and remove the thermostat
and fan belt. Start the engine and quickly accelerate
several times. At the same time note any appreci-
able water rise or the appearance of bubbles which
CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL
ENGINE COOLING 6K-2
are indicative of exhaust gases leaking into the coolr
ing system.
Periodic Maintenance
Periodic service must be performed to the engine cool-
ing system to keep it in efficient operating condition.
These services should include a complete cleaning and
reverse flushing as well as a reconditioning service.
In the course of engine operation, rust and scale ac-
cumulate in the radiator and engine water jacket. The
accumulation of these deposits can be kept to a minimum
by the use of a good rust inhibitor but it should be
remembered that an inhibitor will not remove rust al-
ready present in the cooling system.
Two common causes of corrosion are: (1) air suction--
Air may be drawn into the system due to low liquid level
in the radiator, leaky water pump or loose hose con-
nections; (2) exhaust gas leakage—Exhaust gas may be
blown into the cooling system past the cylinder head
gasket or through cracks in the cylinder head and block.
Cleaning
A good cleaning solution should be used to loosen the
rust and scale before reverse flushing the cooling
system. There are a number of cleaning solutions avail-
able and the manufacturer's instructions with the particu-
lar cleaner being used should always be followed.
An excellent preparation to use for this purpose is GM
Cooling System Cleaner. The following directions for
cleaning the system applies only when this type cleaner
is-used.
1.
Drain the cooling system including the cylinder block
and then close both drain plugs.
2.
Remove thermostat and replace thermostat housing.
3.
Add the liquid portion (No. 1) of the cooling system
cleaner.
4.
Fill the cooling system with water to a level of about
3 inches below the top of the overflow pipe.
5. Cover the radiator and run the engine at moderate
speed until engine coolant temperature reaches 180
degrees.
6. Remove cover from radiator and continue to run the
engine for 20 minutes. Avoid boiling.
7. While the engine is still running, add the powder
portion (No. 2) of the cooling system cleaner and
continue to run the engine for 10 minutes.
8. At the end of this time, stop the engine, wait a few
minutes and then open the drain cocks or remove
pipe plugs. Also remove lower hose connection.
CAUTION: Be careful not to scald your hands.
NOTE:
Dirt and bugs may be cleaned out of
the radiator air passages by blowing out with air
pressure from the back of the core.
Reverse Flushing
Reverse flushing should always be accomplished after
the system is thoroughly cleaned as outlined above.
Flushing is. accomplished through the system in a direc-
tion opposite to the normal flow. This action causes the
water to get behind the corrosion deposits and force
them out.
Radiator
1.
Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses and re-
place the radiator cap,
2.
Attach a lead-away hose at the top of the radiator.
3.
Attach a new piece of hose to the radiator outlet
connection and insert the flushing gun in this hose.
4.
Connect the water hose of the flushing gun to a water
outlet and the air hose to an air line.
5. Turn on the water and when the radiator is full, turn
on the air in short blasts, allowing the radiator to
fill between blasts of air.
CAUTION: Apply air gradually as a clogged
radiator will stand only a limited pressure.
6. Continue this flushing until the water from the lead-
away hose runs clear.
Cylinder Block and Cylinder Head
1.
With the thermostat removed, attach a lead-away
hose to the water pump inlet and a length of new hose
to the water outlet connection at the top of the engine.
NOTE:
Disconnect the heater hose when re-
verse flushing engine.
2.
Insert the flushing gun in the new hose.
3.
Turn on the water and when the engine water jacket
is full, turn on the air in short blasts.
4.
Continue this flushing until the water from the lead-
away hose runs clear.
Hot Water Heater
1.
Remove water outlet hose from heater core pipe.
2.
Remove inlet hose from engine connection.
3.
Insert flushing gun and flush heater core. Care must
be taken when applying air pressure to prevent
damage to the core.
Fan Belt
Adjustment
1.
Loosen bolts at Delcotron slotted bracket.
2.
Pull Delcotron away from engine until desired ten-
sion reading is obtained with a strand tension gauge.
Refer to Section 6, "Engine Tune-Up".
3.
Tighten all Delcotron bolts securely.
Thermostat
The thermostat consists of a restriction valve actuated
by a thermostatic element. This is mounted in the hous-
ing at the cylinder head water outlet above the water
pump,
thermostats are designed to open and close at
predetermined temperatures and if not operating properly
should be removed and tested as follows.
Replacement
1.
Remove radiator to water outlet hose.
2.
Remove thermostat housing bolts and remove water
outlet and gasket from thermostat housing (fig. 2).
3.
Inspect thermostat valve to make sure it is in good
condition.
4.
Place thermostat in hot water 25° above the temper-
ature stamped on the thermostat valve.
5. Submerge the valve completely and agitate the water
thoroughly. Under this condition the valve should
open fully.
6. Remove the thermostat and place in water 10° below
temperature indicated on the valve.
7. With valve completely submerged and water agitated
thoroughly, the valve should close completely.
8. If thermostat checks satisfactorily, re-install, using
a new housing gasket.
9. Refill cooling system.
CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL
ENGINE FUEL 6M-4
Fig.
3C-Fuel Level Sight Plug
2.
Push hand choke knob in to within 1/8" of instru-
ment panel.
3.
Loosen choke cable clamp at carburetor bracket and
adjust cable through the clip until the choke valve
is wide open.
4.
Tighten cable clamp at carburetor bracket and check
operation of choke valve to ensure full closed and
wide open positions.
5. Install air cleaner.
Float Adjustment
Ho/fey (Model 4150
Center
Inlet & Model 2300)
1.
Remove air cleaner then remove the fuel level sight
plugs (Fig. 3c)
2.
With parking brake on, and transmission in neutral,
start the engine and allow it to idle.
3.
With the car on a level surface, the fuel level should
be on a level with the threads at the bottom of the
sight plug port (plus or minus 1/32 inch).
NOTE:
No float drop adjustment is required
on this carburetor.
4.
If necessary to adjust (either or both bowls), loosen
inlet needle lock screw and turn the adjusting nut
clockwise to lower or counter-clockwise to raise
fuel level, then tighten lock screw.
NOTE:
1/6 turn of adjusting nut equals ap-
proximately 1/16" fuel level change.
5. Allow a minute for fuel level to stabilize then re-
check the level at sight plug.
6. Readjust, if necessary, until proper level is obtained,
then install sight plug and air cleaner.
NOTE:
To assure proper secondary float level
setting it is advisable to accelerate primary
throttles slightly and hand operate secondary
throttle. This assures a stabilized secondary
fuel level.
Additional Adjustments
The following adjustments may be made without re-
moving the carburetor from the engine. For procedure
refer to Section 6M of the Overhaul Manual under the
carburetor being serviced.
Rochester BV
• Float
• Idle Vent
• Choke Rod (Fast Idle)
• Choke Vacuum Break
• Choke Unloader
Rochester 2GV
• Float
• Accelerator Pump
• Idle Vent
• Choke Rod (Fast Idle)
• Choke Vacuum Break
• Choke Unloader
• Secondary Throttle Opening
• Secondary Throttle Lockout
Rochester 4MV
• Float
• Accelerator Pumj)
• Idle Vent
• Air Valve
• Choke Rod
• Choke Vacuum Break
• Choke Unloader
• Air Valve Lockout
• Secondary Opening
• Secondary Lockout
Carter YF
• Float
• Idle Vent
• Choke Rod (Fast Idle)
• Choke Vacuum Break
• Choke Unloader
Holley 4160 and 4150
(Except End
Inlet)
• Float
• Air Vent Valve
• Accelerator Pump
• Choke Vacuum Break
• Choke Unloader
Holley 2300 and 4150
(End
Inlet)
• Air Vent Valve (except 2300)
• Accelerator Pump
• Choke Vacuum Break
• Choke Unloader
Removal
Flooding, stumble on acceleration and other perform-
mance complaints are, in many instances, caused by the
presence of dirt, water, or other foreign matter in the
carburetor. To aid in diagnosing the cause of the com-
plaint, the carburetor should be carefully removed from
the engine without draining the fuel from the bowl.
The contents of the fuel bowl may then be examined for
contamination as the carburetor is disassembled.
1.
Remove air cleaner and gasket.
2.
Disconnect fuel and vacuum lines from carburetor.
CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL