1953 JEEP DJ oil type

-Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

E>
[5,928 a
5,926
cm.] for all main bearings. Allowable
taper or out-of-round of the journals is .001"
[0,0254
mm.].

D-42.
Checking Connecting Rod
Crankpins

Check
the crankpin diameters with a micrometer
to ensure that they are not out-of-round or tapered more than .001"
[0,0254
mm.] The standard
crank-

pin
diameter is
1.9383*
to
1.9375"
[4,9233
a
4,9213

cm.].
D-43.
Crankshaft
Main
Bearings

The
crankshaft rotates on three main bearings

with
a running clearance of .0003" to .0029"
[0,0076
a
0,0736
mm.].

These
bearings are positioned and prevented from
rotating in their supports in the cylinder block by
dowel pins. Dowel pins are used in both the center

and
the
rear
bearing caps. No dowel pins are used

in
the front bearing cap because the bearing has
a
flange. The front main bearing takes the end

thrust
of the crankshaft. The main bearings are of premium type which provides long bearing life.
They
are replaceable and when correctly installed, provide proper clearance without filing, boring,

scraping,
or shimming. Crankshaft bearings can
be removed from this
engine
only with the
engine

out of the vehicle. Crankshaft bearings must be replaced as a complete set of three bearings, each
bearing consisting of two halves.
Main
bearings
are
available in the standard size and the following
undersizes:
.001" [0,025mm.] .012" [0,305 mm.] .002" [0,051mm.] .020" [0,508 mm.] .010" [0,254mm.] .030" [0,762 mm.]

The
.001" and .002" undersize main bearings are
for use with standard size crankshafts having
slightly worn
journals.
The .010", .020", and .030" undersize bearings are for use with undersize

crankshafts
in
those
sizes. The .012" undersize
bearings are for use with .010" undersize
crank­
shafts having slightly worn journals. Bearing sizes

are
rubber stamped on the reverse side of each
bearing half.
D-44. Crankshaft
Main
Bearing Inspection

The
crankshaft
journals
must be carefully inspected
as detailed previously in Par. D-41. Worn journals

will
require undersize bearings. Scored, flaked, or

worn
bearings must be replaced. Measure the main
bearing bores in the cylinder block using a
telescope

gauge
and micrometer. Measure the bores at right
angles to the split line and at 45° to the split line.

The
bores should not be over .001"
[0,0254
mm.]
out-of-round or .001" in taper from end to end.

Also,
the bores should not be more then .001"
oversize, considering the average diameter of the
bore.

D-45.
Fitting Crankshaft
Main
Bearings
Using
Plastigage

After
wiping and carefully inspecting the bearing bore, install the proper bearing. See that the oil

hole
in the bearing upper half registers properly

with
the oil
hole
in the block, and that the bearing
lock fits properly in the notch in the block.
Install

the crankshaft if replacing bearings with the
engine

out of the vehicle. The desired running fit (dif­
ference
between
the diameter of the crankshaft

journal
and the inside diameter of the fitted bear­ ing) for a main bearing is .0003" to .0029"
[0,0076

a
0,0736
mm.]. With a dimension in
excess
of this
standard
running fit, a satisfactory bearing replace­ment cannot be made and it
will
be necessary to

regrind
the crankshaft.
Install
the bearing lower

half
and the bearing cap and draw the nuts down
equally and only slightly tight. Rotate the
crank­

shaft by hand to be sure it turns freely without

drag.
Pull
the nuts tighter, first one then the other,
a
little at a time, intermittently rotating the
crank­

shaft by hand until the recommended torque of
35 to 45 lb-ft. [4,8 a 6,2 kg-m.] is reached. If the
bearings are of the correct size, and lubricated with
light oil before installation, the crankshaft should
turn
freely in the bearings. If the crankshaft cannot
be turned, a larger bearing is
required.
If there is no binding or tightness, it is still necessary to check
clearance to guard against too
loose
a fit. Never file
either the bearing cap or the bearing to compensate
for too much clearance. Do not use shims under a
bearing cap or behind a bearing shell. Do not run a
new bearing half with a worn bearing half. The use
of "Plastigage" of the proper size to measure .001" [0,025 mm.] clearance is recommended for check­
ing crankshaft main bearing clearance. The method
of checking clearance is as follows:

a.
Remove the bearing cap and carefully wipe

all
oil from the bearing and the
journal.
b.
Lay a piece of "Plastigage" y%" [3 mm.]
shorter than the width of the bearing across the

journal
(lengthwise of the crankshaft).

c.
Install
the bearing and cap and tighten first
one nut, then the other, a little at a time to the specified torque. As the bearing
tightens
down

around
the
journal,
the "Plastigage" flattens to a
width that indicates the bearing clearance.

d.
Remove the cap and measure the width of
the flattened "Plastigage," using the scale printed
on the
edge
of the envelope. The proper size "Plasti­
gage"
will
accurately measure clearance down to .001".
e. If the flattened "Plastigage" tapers toward the middle, or toward the end, or both ends, there
is a difference in clearance, indicating a taper, a
low
spot,
or other irregularity of the bearing or

journal.

D-46.
Fitting Crankshaft
Main
Bearings
Using
Shim Stock

Thin
feeler or shim stock may be used instead of "Plastigage" to check bearing clearances. The
method is simple, but care must be taken to protect
the bearing metal surface from
injury
by too much pressure against the feeler stock,

a.
Cut a piece of .001" [0,025 mm.] thick, by Yl [12,7 mm.] wide, feeler stock }4" [3 mm.]
shorter than the width of the bearing. Coat this 51

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

10442

FIG.
D-l6—SHIM
STOCK
IN
POSITION
ON
MAIN
BEARING

1—0.001"
Feeler Stock H' Wide feeler stock with light
engine
oil and lay it on the

bearing
in the cap, as shown in
Fig.
D-16.
With
the

shim
in this position, install the bearing and cap
on the crankshaft.

b.
Tighten the bearing cap nuts, first one and
then the other, a little at a time to 35 to 45 lb-ft. torque [4,8 a 6,2 kg-m.].

c.
Turn
the crankshaft by hand not more than
one inch in either direction.

Caution:
Turning
the crankshaft more may imbed the shim stock in the bearing, giving a false indica­
tion of fit and damaging the bearing.

If
the bearing clearance is correct, the piece of .001"
feeler stock should produce a light to heavy drag.
If
there is little or no drag the bearing fit is too

loose.
If the crankshaft
will
not
turn
there is not
enough clearance. In either case another bearing must be selected to provide the proper fit.

d.
After the bearing has been correctly fitted, remove the shim stock, wipe the bearing and

journal
carefully and apply clean
engine
oil to the
surfaces.
Replace the cap and tighten the nuts first one, then the other, a little at a time, to the
prescribed
torque. The crankshaft should now
turn

freely without drag.
FIG.
D-l
7—CONNECTING
ROD
OFFSET
D-47.
Connecting Rod Bearings

The
connecting rod bearings, like the crankshaft
main
bearings, are of the replaceable type. When

correctly
installed, the bearings provide proper
clearance
without filing, boring, scraping, or

shimming.

Main
bearings with maximum wearing surfaces
are
obtained through the use of
offset
connecting

rods.
When the rods are installed, the
offset
"A"

in
Fig. D-l7 is placed away from the nearest main

bearing
"B".
The
oil spray
hole
should be on the "follow" side

or
away from the camshaft, toward the right side
of the vehicle. Because of the
offset
and oil spray
hole, No. 1 and 2 or No. 3 and 4 connecting rods cannot be interchanged for if they are reversed,
the oil spray
hole
will
be on the wrong side. No. 1
and
3 or No. 2 and 4 can be interchanged.

Connecting
rod bearings should be replaced as a complete set.
Each
bearing consists of two halves.

Connecting
rod bearing
sets
are available in stand­

ard
size and the following undersize:
.001" [0,025 mm.] .012" [0,305 mm.]
.002"
[0,051
mm.] .020" [0,508 mm.] .010"
[0,254
mm.] .030" [0,762 mm.]

The
.001" and .002" undersize bearings are for use

with
standard size crankshafts having slightly

worn
crankpins that do not require grinding. The .012" undersize bearings are for use with slightly

worn
crankshafts that have been previously ground for .010" undersize bearings.

Should
it be necessary to replace the bearings due to wear, replacement of piston rings and piston
pins is also recommended.

NOTE:
Should it be necessary to replace a scored

or
burned No. 1 connecting rod bearing, see Par. D-92 regarding timing gear oil jet.

D-48.
Connecting Rod Bearing Inspection

The
bearing fits may be roughly checked by shaking the connecting rod by hand,
prior
to removal of
the bearing cap, to determine if it is
loose
on the
crankshaft.
The crankpins must be carefully in­
spected as detailed previously in Par. D-41.
Worn
crankpins
will
require undersize bearings. Scored,
flaked,
or
worn bearings must be replaced.

D-49.
Installing Connecting Rod Bearings
New bearings must be installed so that the oil

spray
hole
in the upper bearing
half
aligns with
the oil spray
hole
in the connecting rod.
Each

bearing
cap must be installed to seat evenly on the connecting rod from which it was removed, and in
the same position. After wiping and carefully in­ specting the bearing bore in the connecting rod,

install
the proper bearing. Never file either the
bearing
cap or the bearing to compensate for too
much
clearance. Do not use shims under a bearing
cap or behind a bearing shell. Do not run a new

bearing
half
with a worn half.

The
desired running fit (difference
between
the diameter of the
crankpin
and the inside diameter
of the fitted bearing) for a connecting rod bearing
is .0003" to .0025"
[0,0076
a
0,0635
mm.].
With
a dimension in
excess
of this standard running fit, a 52

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
against the hub of the crankshaft pulley.
Timing

gears are accessible for inspection or replacement

with
the
engine
installed in the vehicle after re­ moving the radiator, belt drive pulley, and timing
cover.

Should
it be necessary to replace the timing gears, attention must be given to the end float of both
the camshaft and crankshaft and to the running

clearance
of both gears. It is also advisable to
check
both the oil jet and oil passage to the
crank­

shaft front bearing to be sure that they are clear.

D-55.
Inspection and
Repair

Check
the general condition of both gears and
inspect for evidence of excessive wear. Replace
excessively worn or damaged gears. Inspect the
cover and replace if bent or damaged. It is recom­ mended that the crankshaft oil seal in the cover
be replaced when the cover is removed to ensure a
good
seal around the crankshaft. To replace this

seal
with the
engine
in the vehicle
requires
removing
the radiator and water pump.

D-56.
Valves, Springs, and Guides

The
exhaust valves seat on the top of the cylinder

block
with the
stems
extending down through
replaceable valve guides. The exhaust valves are actuated by the camshaft through exhaust valve
tappets. The exhaust valve springs are assembled

and
locked on the lower end of the exhaust valve
stems. The retaining locks are the split type, which
fit in a recess on the valve
stems
and into the taper

in
the valve spring retainers.

Adjustment
of exhaust valves is by means of the
adjusting
screw threaded into the upper end of the
exhaust valve tappets. An exhaust valve rotator used as a valve spring retainer is installed on the
lower end of the exhaust valve.
This
valve rotator,
known
as "Roto Cap", is a spring-loaded
ball

bearing
device. On each lift, or opening stroke of
a
valve, the rotator
gives
the valve a slight positive
clockwise rotation.

The
intake valves operate in valve
guides
in the
cylinder
head and are actuated by rocker arms.

The
rocker arms are actuated by valve push rods

and
the intake valve tappets. The intake valve
springs,
the intake valve spring retainers, and the

intake
valve spring retainer locks make up the

remainder
of the valve operating parts. An intake
valve spring retainer oil seal which encircles the

upper
end of the intake valve
between
the valve
locks and the upper end of the valve spring re

tainer,
controls the passage of oil along the valve
stem and guide.

Note:
When
engine
trouble indicates defective
valves as a possible source of trouble, also check

all
vacuum line connections for possible leaks.

D-57.
Inspection of Valves, Springs,
and
Guides

Clean
the valves on a wire wheel, making sure that

all
carbon is removed from the top and the under­
side of the heads and that all gum and varnish
deposits
are removed from the stems.
Polish
the valve
stems
with steel wool or crocus

cloth.
Visually
inspect all valves for warpage,

cracks,
or excessive burning and discard if one of

these
conditions exists. Replace any worn, pitted,

or
corroded valves that cannot be cleaned with a
wire
brush.
Replace any valves when
seats
are pitted, burned, or corroded so badly that they
cannot be cleaned up with a light refacing on a valve refacing machine.

Replace
valves with marks of scoring or abrasion visible on the stem. Replace any valves with bent

stems
which
will
be apparent when the valve is
mounted in the valve refacing machine.

Note:
Use only hard-face exhaust valves for
replacement.

Examine
the
stems
of valves which employ the
ball
bearing rotators.
Wear
marks around the
cir­

cumference of the
stems
indicates that the valve is
rotating satisfactorily.
Vertical
heavy pressure

areas
indicate that the valve is not rotating and the valve spring retainer (Roto
Cap)
should be replaced

if
at fault.
Check
the diameter of the valve stem at two or three places along the length of the stem

with
a micrometer. The intake valve stem diameter is .3733" to .3738" [9,482 a
9,495
mm.]. The
exhaust valve stem diameter is .371" to .372"
[9,423
a
9,449
mm.].

Note:
Exhaust
and intake valve springs are

similar
in appearance. They must not be inter­
changed as they have different spring
charac­

teristics.

Wash
the valve springs thoroughly in solvent.

Visually
examine the springs and replace any that

are
deformed or obviously damaged. Examine for

corrosion
from moisture or acid etching which might
FIG.
D-19—TESTING
VALVE
SPRING

1—
Torque
Wrench

2—
Spring
Testing
Fixture

3—
Valve
Spring
54

'Jeep5
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
Driver
W-238 is equipped
with
an
adapter
ring

which
correctly positions the guides. See Fig. D-23. Start a new exhaust valve guide, blunt (nontapered)
end
first,
into
the valve guide bore in the top of the cylinder block. When properly positioned, the
top end of the guide is exactly
1
"
[25,4 mm.] below
the level of the top of the block as shown in Fig.
D-24.
Start
a new intake valve guide, tapered end
first, into position from the
bottom
of the cylinder

head.
When properly positioned, the end of the
guide is just flush with the end of the valve guide
bore in the cylinder head as shown in Fig. D-24.

Run
a reamer (Tool
C-3 8)
through the new
guides

after they have been correctly positioned.

D-62. Tappets
and
Cover

The
valve tappets are lubricated through oil troughs cast in the crankcase. The troughs are
filled by oil sprayed from the connecting rod ends

and
passages are drilled through the tappet
guides
to
carry
the oil to the tappets. A
groove
around the center of the tappet shank carries the oil up and down the guide.

Check
the threads and fit of the exhaust valve ad­

justing
screw in the exhaust valve tappets. The fit of a screw should be such that a wrench is required to
turn
it into or out of the tappet as
these
are of
the self-locking type. Replace the worn part, either
the screw or the tappet, or both, if there is
loose­

ness
between
the parts.
D-63.
Crankshaft Rear Bearing Seal

Oil
leakage through the
rear
main bearing is pre­ vented by a metal supported neoprene lip type

seal
which can readily be installed without remov­
ing the crankshaft.

Should
trouble be experienced with oil leaking

from
the
rear
main bearing there are several points

which
should be checked.

a.
Be sure that the identifying paint daub on the
bearing
cap is the same as that appearing on the
center bearing web.

b.
The bearing to crankshaft clearance must not
exceed .0029"
[0,0736
mm.].

c.
Place sealer on the faces of the
rear
bearing cap

from
the
rear
oil
groove
to the oil seal grooves.

d-
Be sure the rubber oil seals extend about 34" [6 mm.] below the
bottom
face of the cap.

e.
Be sure the oil pan gasket is not leaking.
f.
Check
to be sure the oil leak is not at the cam­
shaft
rear
bearing expansion plug or from the
crankcase.

D-64.
Floating Oil
Intake •
Refer to Fig. D-25 and D-26.

The
floating oil intake is attached to the
bottom

of the crankcase with two screws. The float and
screen causes it to ride, raise and lower with the
amount of oil in the pan.
This
prevents water or
dirt,
which
may have accumulated in the
bottom

of the oil pan, from circulating through the
engine

because the oil is drawn horizontally from the top

surface.
Whenever removed, the float, screen, and
tube should be cleaned thoroughly to remove any
accumulation
of
dirt.
Also clean the oil pan.

Fluctuating
oil pressure can usually be traced to

an
air leak
between
the oil float support and the

crankcase.

Be
sure the float support flange is flat.
Clean
both
the flange and the crankcase surfaces thoroughly
before installing a new gasket. Be sure the retaining
screws are tight.
D-65. Oil
Pump

The
oil pump is located externally on the left side
of the engine. In operation oil is drawn from the

crankcase
through the floating oil intake then passes through a drilled passage in the crankcase
to the pump from which it is forced through

drilled
passages to the crankshaft and camshaft
bearings. When it is necessary to remove an oil
pump,
first remove the distributor cover and
note
the position of the distributor rotor so that the pump may be reinstalled without disturbing the
ignition timing. To install the pump without dis­

turbing
the timing, the pump gear must be cor­

rectly
meshed with the camshaft driving gear to
allow
engagement
of the key on the distributor shaft with the pump shaft slot, without changing the position of the distributor rotor. Distributor
can
be installed only in one position as the slot and

driving
key are machined off-center.

The
oil pump consists of an inner and outer rotor

within
the pump body. An oil relief valve is mounted in the pump body which controls the oil

pressure.
To disassemble the pump, Fig. D-27, first remove the gear which is retained by straight

pin.
It
will
be necessary to file off one end of the
pin
before driving it out with a small drift. By re­
moving the cover the outer rotor and the inner

rotor
and shaft may be removed through the cover opening.
Failure
of the pump to operate at

full
efficiency may usually be traced to excessive
end float of the rotors or excessive clearance be­ tween the rotors. The clearance
between
the outer

rotor
and the pump body should also be checked.
Match
the rotors
together
with one
lobe
of the inner

rotor
pushed as far as possible into the notch of the outer rotor. Measure the clearance
between
the

lobes
of the rotors as shown in
Fig.
D-28.
This
clear­ ance should be .010"
[0,254
mm.] or less.
If
more, replace both rotors. Measure the clearance

between
the outer rotor and the pump body as
shown in Fig. D-29. Should this clearance exceed .012" [0,305 mm.] the fault is probably in the
pump body and it should be replaced. End float
of the rotors is controlled by the thickness of the cover gasket which is made of special material that

can
be only slightly compressed. Never use other

than
a standard factory gasket.
Check
the cover
to be sure the inner surface is not rough or scored

and
that it is flat within .001" [0,025 mm.]
tested

with
feeler
gauges,
Fig. D-30. Measure thickness of
the rotors which must be within .001" [0,025 mm.]
of each other. Assemble the rotors in the pump body and install the cover without the gasket.
When
the cover screws are tightened to normal
tension, there should be interference
between
the
rotors and the cover making it impossible to
turn
the pump shaft by hand. Remove the cover and re- 57

D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE d.
Remove the intake valve adjusting screw lock-
nuts from each of the rocker arm valve lash ad­

justing
screws. Remove the screws from the rocker
arms.

D-76.
Inspection and
Repair

Run
a round wire brush through the bore of the

rocker
arm shaft and clean out the drilled oil holes.
Clean
out the oil
holes
in the rocker arm shaft

brackets,
and the oil
holes
and
grooves
in the bores
of the rocker arm.
Inspect
the diameter of the shaft at the rocker arm

bearing
areas. Replace the shaft if there are scores

or
abrasion marks along the length of the shaft.
Check
the shaft for alignment by rolling it across

a
smooth level surface. If the shaft
will
not
roll
freely, or if it rolls with a bumping motion, the
shaft is out of alignment and must be replaced.
Inspect
the threads of the adjusting screw
hole
in
the rocker arms and if necessary clean with a

proper
size tap. Replace the adjusting screw lock-
nut or the adjusting screw if either part is damaged

or
deformed.

Inspect
the threads in the tapped
hole
in the top
of the rocker arm shaft brackets and if necessary

clean
with a proper size tap. Replace the bracket

if
either side is worn or scored.

D-77.
Reassembly

a.
Install
two rocker arm shaft plugs, one in each
end of the shaft. Slide two
rocker
arm
shaft brackets
onto
the center of the shaft. Align the tapped
holes

in
the brackets with the drilled
holes
in the top of
the shaft and install the rocker arm shaft lock
screws,
making sure the points of the screws enter
the drilled
holes
in the shaft.

b.
Screw the intake valve adjusting screws into
the rocker arms and install the locknuts.

c.
The rocker arms are paired; that is, two of the
arms
are angled to the right and two are angled to
the left. One of each type is used on each end of
the rocker arm shaft. Slide a rocker arm with the

adjusting
screw end of the rocker arm angling

away
from the bracket
onto
the shaft so that the
adjusting
screw is on the same side of the shaft
as the mounting
hole
in the bracket.

d.
Temporarily
secure the end bracket in place by
installing
a rocker arm cover stud in the tapped
opening in the top of the support.
e. Assemble the parts on the
opposite
end of the
rocker
arm shaft repeating
steps
c and d above.

D-78. ENGINE REASSEMBLY
The
engine
reassembly procedure in the following

paragraphs
is given in the sequence to be followed
when the
engine
is being completely overhauled.
Individual
inspection,
repair,
and fitting operations
previously covered in detail are made throughout
the reassembly procedure. The reassembly pro­
cedure
does
not cover accessories. If a new cylinder

block
fitted with pistons is used, many of the
operations
will
not be required.
Mount
the cylinder block in an
engine
repair stand.
If
an
engine
stand is not available, perform the fol­
lowing reassembly operation in a manner designed to protect personnel against an accident and the

engine
and its parts against damage.

Note:
During
engine
reassembly, use Perfect Seal

Aerosol
Spray
Sealer
Part
No.
994757
on all
engine
gaskets to ensure against vacuum, oil, gasoline and

water
leaks. Apply to head gaskets, valve covers,
water
pumps, oil pan gaskets, radiator and heater
hose
connections, felt gaskets, gasoline and oil line
connections, stud bolts,
spark
plug threads, and
grease retainer washers. Refer to manufacturer's in­
structions on container for proper application pro­
cedure.

D-79.
Install
Oil
Gallery
Plug

Coat
plug threads with a suitable sealing compound

and
install the plugs in the front and
rear
ends of
the oil gallery in the cylinder block and the
rear

end of the cylinder head. Torque the plugs 20 to 25 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,4 kg-m.].

There
is also a pipe plug
(}/g,f
[3,2 mm.] slotted, headless) in the opening in the main oil gallery inside the cylinder block at No. 2 cylinder and another pipe plug
(}/g
"
square-head) in the opening

in
the oil passage directly below the oil pump intake
passage. If
these
two pipe plugs were removed,
make
certain they are reinstalled in the locations
described above or the counterweight of the

crankshaft
might strike the projecting head of the
square-head
plug.

D-80.
Install
Tappets

Turn
the block upside down. Beginning at the

rear
end of the cylinder block, install the intake

and
exhaust valve tappets in the tappet bores in the cylinder block in the following order: one
exhaust, two intake, two exhaust, two intake, and
finally
one exhaust valve tappet.

Check
the tappet to bore fit of each tappet as it
is installed in the block. If the stem-to-block

clearance
tolerance of .0005" to .002" [0,0127 a
0,051 mm.] is
exceeded
install a new tappet fitting
within
this tolerance or ream the bore to accomo­ date the next oversize tappet which is available

in
.004" oversize.

D-81.
Install
Camshaft and
Thrust
Plate

Lubricate
all camshaft bearings and cam surfaces generously with clean, light
engine
oil.
Carefully,

so not to damage or score the camshaft front bear­
ing,
install the camshaft, locating it properly in the bearings. Do not allow the
rear
end of the cam­shaft to strike sharply against the expansion plug

installed
in the
rear
end of the bore.
Install
the camshaft thrust plate. Slide the thrust
plate spacer
onto
the end of the camshaft with the
beveled inner
edge
of the spacer facing the cam­
shaft. If the same camshaft is being reinstalled,
install
any shims previously removed. These shims
are
placed
between
the camshaft shoulder and the

spacer.
Torque the thrust plate attaching
bolts
20
to 26 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,6 kg-m.].

End
play of the camshaft is determined by running
clearance
between
the
rear
face of the camshaft
gear and the thrust plate. The standard clearance 62

D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

FIG.
D-34—GAUGING
CRANKSHAFT
END
PLAY
FIG.
D-35
—
DRILLING FLYWHEEL
D-84.
Install
Crankshaft Timing
Gear

Install
the woodruff key in the longer of the two keyways on the front end of the crankshaft.
Install

the crankshaft timing gear on the front end of the crankshaft with the timing
mark
facing out, away from the cylinder block. Align the
keyway in the gear with the woodruff key and then

drive
or press the gear
onto
the crankshaft firmly against the thrust washer.

D-85.
Install
Crankshaft
Rear
Bearing Seal

When
installing the crankshaft
rear
bearing seal

around
the crankshaft, apply a thin coat of light cup grease to both halves of the seal except for the
ends which are already treated with sealing com­ pound. When installing the
rear
main bearing cap

in
the crankcase, place a small amount of plastic- type gasket cement on both sides and face of the
cap to prevent oil leakage. Insert the rubber
packings shown in
Fig. D-3
7
into the
holes
between
the bearing cap and the case. Do not trim
these

packings. The packings are of a predetermined
length that
will
cause them to protrude approxi­ mately 34* [6 mm.] from the case. When the oil

pan
is installed, it
will
force them tightly into the

holes
and effectively seal any opening
between

the bearing cap and the crankcase.

D-86.
Install
Front
End Plate
Assemble the gasket to the front end plate making

certain
that it is positioned properly down to the

bottom
of the crankcase.
Install
the front end plate
on the cylinder block and tighten in place.

D-87.
Install
Flywheel

Be
sure the crankshaft flange and flywheel mating
surfaces are clean to permit proper flywheel align­ ment. With the crankshaft in the cylinder block,
FIG.
D-36—
REAMING FLYWHEEL

FIG.
D-37—REAR
BEARING
CAP
PACKING

64

'Jeep9
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

h.
Check
ignition (distributor) timing; reset if
necessary.

i.
Check
carburetor
adjustments; reset if necessary,

j.
With
engine
fully warmed up, tighten cylinder
head and manifold
bolts
and nuts to specified
torque.
Check
cylinder head gaskets and
bolts
for
air
or coolant leaks.

Note:
Tightness of cylinder head
bolts
should be
checked and corrected after 500 to 600 miles [800

a
960 km.] of normal operation.

k.
Check
fan belt tension; adjust if necessary.

I.
Check
for and correct any oil leak, fuel leak or
coolant leak.
D-107.
VALVE
ADJUSTMENT

Proper
valve adjustment is important to prevent
burning
of valves and poor
engine
performance.

This
adjustment consists of obtaining a specified

lash
in the valve mechanism. The exhaust valve
tappets and the intake valve rocker arms should be adjusted to the proper clearance with the
engine

cold (at room temperature). Valve clearance can
be properly adjusted only when the tappet is on the
heel or low portion of the cam.
INTAKE

OPENS

9°
BTC?

FIG.
D-43-
10270

-VALVE
TIMING
D-108. Valve Adjustment Procedure

The
exhaust valve tappets are adjusted by turning
the adjusting screw in or out of the tappet as neces­
sary
to obtain the proper clearance. Where special
wrenches can be obtained, they should be used to facilitate the adjustment. The proper clearance is .016" [0,406 mm.]
between
the end of the adjusting
screw and the
bottom
of the exhaust valve.

Crank
the
engine
over to
close
a valve and check
the clearance with a feeler
gauge.
To adjust, hold
the tappet with one wrench and
turn
the adjusting

screw,
with the other.
Check
and adjust each of
the tappets in proper sequence.

Adjust
each intake valve by adjusting the rocker
arm
screw at the push rod to obtain .018" [0,457 mm.] clearance
between
the rocker arm and the
valve stem with tappet on the heel of the cam.
D-109.
Check
Valve
Timing

To
check the valve timing, carefully set the intake
valve rocker arm adjustment for No. 1 cylinder to .026"
[0,6604
mm.]
between
the rocker arm and the
valve stem. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until
the piston in No. 1 cylinder is ready for the intake stroke. The intake valve
opens
9° before top center
(BTC).
Note
the distance
between
the
"TC"
and
"5°"
marks on the indicator on the timing gear
cover and estimate the 9° before top center position.
See
Fig.
D-43.
With
the crankshaft in this position, timing is correct if the rocker arm is just tight
against the intake valve stem. Do not overlook resetting the rocker arm adjustment to the correct

running
clearance.
D-110. Positive
Crankcase
Ventilation

Be
sure there are no air leaks at the tube connec­
tions
between
the air cleaner and the oil filler tube,

and
that the oil filler tube cap gasket is in
good

condition. Always keep the cap locked securely in
place. When tuning the
engine
or grinding valves, remove the control valve and clean it thoroughly.
If
the valve is blocked with carbon, the ventilating
system
will
not operate and, should the valve

fail
to seat, it
will
be impossible to make the
engine

idle satisfactorily. Refer to Par. C-6 for servicing.
D-111. Oil
Filter

The
engine
is equipped with a throw-away type

oil
filter.
This
oil filter must be serviced periodi­
cally
as outlined in the
Lubrication
Section. 69

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

D D-l 13. HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS

MODEL:
ENGLISH
ENGINE:

Type

Number of Cylinders

Bore
Stroke
Piston Displacement...........
Bore
Spacing (center to center): 1 and 2, 3 and 4
2 and 3

Firing
Order Compression Ratio Compression Pressure... .
Number of Mounting Points:

Front
Rear

Horsepower (SAE)
Horsepower (Max Brake) Maximum Torque @
2000
rpm.
PISTONS:

Material
Description

Length
,.
Diameter (near
bottom
of
skirt).

Weight.
Clearance
Limits:
Piston-To-Cylindcr
Bore

Ring
Groove Depth:
No. 1 and 2 Ring No. 3 Ring

Ring
Groove Width:
No. 1 Ring No. 2 Ring
No. 3 Ring
Piston Pin Hole Bore
Cylinder
Bore — Standard.....
—
max. out of round
F-Head

4

W

134.2 cu. in.

3.437"

4.938"

1-3-4-2
6.7:1
120 to 130 psi.
2
1
15.63

@
4000
rpm. 114 lb-ft. 75

-
max. taper..

-
max. rebore.

PISTON RINGS:
Function:

No. 1 and 2 No. 3. .

Material:

No. 1. .
No. 2 and 3

Width;
No. 1 and 2
No. 3. . . .

Gap
(Std. to .009 Cyl. Bore).
Thickness:
No. 1 and No. 2 Rings....
No. 3 Ring
Side Clearance in Groove:
No. 1 Ring No. 2 Ring
No. 3 Ring

PISTON
PINS:
Material

Length
Diameter

Type

Clearance
in Piston
(selective
fit).
Aluminum
Alloy

Gam
Ground, T-slot, Tin Plated

3.1225*
to
3.1245*
13.5 oz.
Selective Feeler Fit
.1593" to .1655"
.1693" to .1755"
.0955" to .0965" .095" to .096"
1875" to .1885" .760" to .770"

3.125"
to
3.127"
.005" .005" .040"
Compression
Oil

Cast
Iron,
Chrome-plated Face
Cast
Iron

.007" to .017"
.134" to .144" .115" to .125"
.002" to .004"
.0015" to .0035" .001" to .0025"

SAE
1016 Steel
2.781"
.8119"

Locked
in Rod

.0001"
to .0003"
METRIC

7,937
cm.

11,112
cm. 2199 cm*

8,729
cm.

12,542
cm.
8,4 a 9,2 kg-cm2
15,77 kg-m.
9,525
cm.

7,9311
a
7,9362
cm.

382,7
gr.

4,046
a
4,203
mm.
4,300
a
4,457
mm.

2,4257
a
2,4511
mm. 2,413 a
2,438
mm.

4,7625
a
4,7879
mm.
19,304
a
19,558
mm.
7,9375
a
7,9425
cm.

0,1270
mm.

0,1270
mm.
1,0160
mm.
2,38 mm.
4,76 mm.
0,178 a
0,432
mm.

3,403
a
3,657
mm. 2,821 a 3,175 mm.
0,051 a 0,102 mm.
0,038
a
0,088
mm.

0,025
a
0,063
mm.

70,637
mm.

20,6223
mm.

0,0025
a
0,0076
mm. 71