1953 JEEP DJ tire pressure

G
COOLING SYSTEM
engine
connections. Insert flushing gun and flush
heater core.
Care
must be taken when applying air
pressure to prevent damage to the heater core.

G-2.
Filling
Cooling System
To
fill
the cooling system, remove the
fill
cap and

fill
the tank to the top. Replace the cap and run
the
engine
at medium speed for approximately one
minute. Remove the cap and recheck the coolant level. Add more coolant if necessary to bring the level back to the top of the tank. If the cooling system is filled when the
engine
is cold, recheck the coolant level after the
engine
has warmed up.
This

will
ensure that the thermostat has opened allow­ ing complete cooling system circulation.

Always
correct any cooling system leaks before installing antifreeze. A corrosion inhibitor should be used in the cooling system to prevent the forma­
tion of rust and scale. A quality brand antifreeze containing a corrosion inhibitor should be used.

When
the antifreeze is drained in the spring, a
corrosion inhibitor should be added with the water.

Note:
Cooling system components for both V6 and

F4
engines
are shown in
Figs.
G-2 and G-3.

G-3. Draining
Cooling System

To
completely
drain
the cooling system, open the

drain
in the
bottom
of the radiator and also a

drain
on the right side of the cylinder block on the
Hurricane
F4 engine. The Dauntless V-6
engine

has two
drain
plugs, one located on each side of the cylinder block. Both plugs must be removed to
completely
drain
the cooling system.
Remove the radiator cap to break any vacuum
that may have developed.

Should
the cooling solution be lost from the system

and
the
engine
become
overheated do not
refill

the system immediately but allow the
engine
to cool or
refill
slowly while the
engine
is running. If
cold solution is poured into the radiator while the

engine
is overheated there is danger of cracking the

cylinder
block and/or cylinder head.
G-4.
Radiator Pressure
Cap

All
radiators are equipped with pressure caps which
reduce evaporation of cooling solution and make the
engines
more efficient by permitting slightly
higher operating temperatures. When operating
properly,
the pressure cap permits pressure build-up

in
the cooling system during periods of severe heat

load.
This
pressure increases the boiling point of the coolant and thus reduces overflow losses. The

effectiveness
of the cap is limited by its opening
pressure and the boiling point of the coolant (see
note
below). The pressure cap employs a spring-
loaded, rubber-faced pressure seal which presses against a seat in the radiator top tank. Spring pres­

sure
determines the opening pressure of the valve.

A
typical pressure cap is shown in Fig. G-5.

Note:
Refer to cooling system specifications (Par.

G-21)
for opening (relief) pressure when the ve­
hicle is equipped with either the
Hurricane
F4
or
Dauntless V-6 engine. If a new cap is required, always install a cap of the same type and pressure
rating
specified. It should never be altered or re­
placed by a plain cap.

A
vacuum release valve (Fig. G-5) is employed to
prevent undesirable vacuum build-up when the system
cools
down. The vacuum release valve is
held against its seat under light spring pressure.

Vacuum
in the system is relieved by the valve
which
opens
at V2 to 1 psi. [0,035 a 0,07 kg-cm2]

vacuum.
A pressure tester can be used to check and
test
the vacuum pressure rate (see Fig. G-6).
Although the mechanism of the pressure cap re­ quires no maintenance, the cap should be inspected
periodically for cleanliness and freedom of opera­ tion. The pressure cap gasket and radiator filler neck seat should also be inspected to be sure they

are
providing a proper seal. If the rubber face of
the valve is defective, a new cap should be installed.
Filler
neck reseating
tools
are commercially
avail­
able to correct minor
defects
at the surface of the seat. Follow instructions of the reseating tool manu­

facturer.

To
remove the radiator pressure cap when the
engine
coolant temperature is high or boiling, place

a
cloth over the pressure cap and
turn
counter­ clockwise about Vi
turn
until the first (pressure release)
stop
is reached. Keep the cap in this posi­
tion until all pressure is released.
Then
push cap
down and
turn
still
further until cap can be re­ moved. To install the pressure cap, place it in posi­
tion and
turn
it clockwise as far as it
will
go.

Caution:
Use extreme care in removing the radiator
pressure cap. In overheated systems, the sudden release of pressure can cause a steam flash and this

flash,
or the
loosened
cap can cause serious personal

injury.

G-5.
RADIATOR

Maintenance of the radiator consists of keeping
the exterior of the radiator core clean, the interior free from rust and scale, and the radiator free from

leaks.
Check
the cooling system fluid level and for
leaks each
2000
miles
[3.200
km.] or every 30
days, whichever occurs first.
This
exterior of the

radiator
core should be cleaned and the radiator inspected for leaks each
6000
miles
[9.600
km.]
of normal service of the vehicle. Cleaning should be performed by blowing out with air stream or water stream directed from the
rear
of the radiator.

Visual
inspection is not sufficient as the accumula­ tion of small particles of foreign material on core
surfaces can restrict cooling without closing the core openings.

Radiator
leakage occasionally results from cor­
rosion perforation of the metal but most leakage results from mechanical failure of soldered joints
when too much strain has been put on the joint.
Fractures
occur most
often
at the joint where the
radiator
inlet and
outlet
pipes are attached to the

tanks.
When the seams break, the entire soldered

joint
is
exposed
and can corrode, but breakage
rather
than corrosion is the
primary
cause of seam
leakage. Examine the radiator carefully for leaks before and after cleaning. Cleaning may uncover points of leakage already existing but plugged with
rust.
White, rusty, or colored leakage stains indicate 164

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

FIG.
G-8—TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT- HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
1—Temperature
Sending Unit

b.
Dauntless V-6 Engine.

The
thermo-couple coolant sending unit is mounted
in
the left
rear
area of the intake manifold and is
connected by a single wire to the dash unit of
the instrument cluster.

G-ll.
WATER PUMP

a.
Hurricane
F4 Engine.

The
water pump on the
Hurricane
F4
engine
is a

centrifugal
impeller type of large capacity to
cir­

culate water in the entire cooling system. The double row
ball
bearing (Fig. G-9), is integral with
the shaft and is packed at assembly with a special
high melting point grease which
will
last the life of
the bearing. The bearing is sealed to retain the
lubricant
and prevent
dirt
and dust from entering.

The
bearing and shaft are retained in the water
pump body by the bearing retaining wire. The
water
seal bears against the ground seat on the
pump body and the inside of the impeller, maintain­
ing a constant pressure against both and preventing

water
leakage. A
drain
hole
in the
bottom
of the
pump body precludes any water
seepage
past the

seal
from entering the bearing.
The
impeller and the pulley hub are pressed on
the shaft under high pressure,
b.
Dauntless V-6 Engine.

A
centrifugal-type water pump, shown in
Fig.
G-10,

circulates
coolant through the Dauntless V-6
engine

and
its cooling system.
This
pump is mounted on
the timing chain cover.
Similar
to the
engine
cooling
fan
mounted on its hub, the pump is driven through
a
V-belt from the crankshaft pulley.

Coolant
enters the water pump at its center.
Centri­

fugal force then forces coolant radially outward, through vanes of the pump impeller, and backward
through two discharge passages in the timing chain cover. These passages conduct an equal amount of
coolant to each cylinder bank water jacket.
This

water
pump has a sealed double row
ball
bearing
and
a ceramic water seal, neither of which can be

serviced.
In
event
of bearing or water seal failure, the entire water pump assembly must be replaced.
G-l2.
Water
Pump Inspection

Check
the water pump for leaks, and excessive end play or
looseness
of the shaft in the pump. A

quick
way to check is to work the fan blades up
and
down by hand. If any play is noticed, this
indicates that the bearings are rough. Rough bear­ings should be checked to see if the water pump
should be replaced or rebuilt.

G-13.
Water Pump
Disassembly
—
Hurricane
F4
Engine

•
Refer to Fig. G-9.

a.
Remove the fan belt, fan blades, and fan pulley.

b.
Remove the
bolts
attaching the water pump
to the block. Remove the pump.

c.
Remove the bearing retainer spring.

d.
Remove the pump impeller and pulley with a suitable puller.

e.
Remove the pump seal, bearing and shaft, and

bearing
slinger.

G-l4.
Water Pump Reassembly
—
Hurricane
F4
Engine

•
Refer to Fig. G-9.
Before assembling the water pump, examine water
seal
seat in the pump body and should it be rough,

install
a new pump body.

To
reassemble the unit, insert the long end of the shaft into the pump body from the front end until
the outer end of the bearing is flush against the

FIG.
G-9—WATER
PUMP-
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

1—
Fan
and Pump Pulley
2—
Bearing
and Shaft

3—
Bearing
Retainer Spring

A—Pipe
Plug 5—
Pump
Body
6—
Seal
Washer 7—
Pump
Seal
8—
Impeller

9—
Gasket
167

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM SUBJECT
PAR.

Directional
Signal
Lamps
H-138

Hazard
Warning
Lamps
H-139

Head
Lamp
Replacement H-130
Head
Lamp
Aiming Procedure H-131 Headlight Dimmer Switch H-127

License
Plate
Lamp
H-136
Main
Light
Switch. H-126

Marker
Lights .H-l40

Parking
and
Turn
Signal
Light
H-133
Stop
Light
Switch. H-l28
Tail,
Stop and
Turn
Signal
Lamp
.H-134

H-1. GENERAL
All
'Jeep' Universal vehicles are equipped with 12- volt electrical systems. Use caution around the higher
voltage
of the 12-volt system as accidental

short
circuits are more capable of damaging electri­
cal
units. Also, arcs around the 12-volt battery are
more apt to ignite any gas that may be escaping

from
it. In the following paragraphs
will
be found
information about the battery, distributor, coil,
generator, alternator,
voltage
regulator and start­ ing motor. These units with the connecting wires,

make
up the
engine
electrical system. The wiring
diagram
will
show the different circuits of the en­

gine
electrical system and the various units which
make
up
those
circuits.

With
plastic-covered wiring harnesses use only

rubber-insulated
wiring clips.

Caution:
All current production vehicles are 12- volt, negative ground. Whenever servicing a 12-
volt electrical system, use caution, as an accidental

short
circuit is capable of damaging electrical units. Disconnect battery ground cable before changing

electrical
components.

H-2.
Battery

The
battery is a storage reservoir for electrical
energy produced by the alternator or generator.
The
battery should store sufficient energy for
operation of the entire electrical system when the
alternator
or generator is not pr 1,scing output,

such
as when the ignition is first turned on. Of

particular
importance is maintaining the electrolyte
at the correct level, regularly checking with a
hydrometer, and maintaining clean, tight cable connections.

Battery
service information is given in this section.

Caution:
Do not allow flames or sparks to be
brought near the vent
openings
of the battery since
hydrogen gas may be present in the battery and might explode.

Note:
The liquid in the battery (electrolyte) is a
solution of sulphuric acid which, on contact, can

injure
skin or
eyes,
or damage clothes. If it is spilled
on the skin or spattered in the
eyes,
promptly flush
it
away with quantities of clear water only. If the

acid
is spilled on clothes, wet it thoroughly with a

weak
solution of ammonia, or with a solution of sodium bicarbonate or baking soda.
SUBJECT
PAR.

HORN
H-137

ELECTRICAL
COMPONENT
REPLACEMENT
H-150

WINDSHIPLD
WIPER SYSTEM
H-141
thru
149

SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS.
. .H-151

ELECTRICAL
SPECIFICATIONS
H-152

Caution:
When installing the battery, the nega­
tive terminal must be grounded. Reverse polarity of the battery can cause severe damage to the charg­ing system.

Battery
Inspection

a.
Check
the specific gravity of the electrolyte in
each cell of the battery. A hydrometer reading of 1.260 indicates that the battery is fully charged.

If
the reading is 1.225 or below, the battery
needs

recharging.
If one or more cells is 25 "points" (.025) or more lower than the other cells, this in­
dicates that the cell is shorted, the cell is about to

fail,
or there is a
crack
in the battery partition in
the case. Unless the battery is repaired or replaced, battery trouble
will
soon
be experienced.

b.
Check
the electrolyte level in each cell, add

distilled
water to maintain the solution [9,5 mm.] above the plates. Avoid overfilling. Replace
the filler caps and tighten securely. It is important to keep the electrolyte level above the plates at all
times because plates that are
exposed
for any
length of time
will
be seriously damaged.

c.
Check
the wing nuts on the hold-down frame for tightness. Tighten them only with finger pres­

sure,
never with pliers or a wrench. Excessive
pressure
could damage the battery case.

d.
Clean
the battery terminals and cable con­ nectors. Prepare a strong solution of baking soda

and
water and brush it around the terminals to
remove any corrosion that is present. The cell caps must be tight and their vents sealed to prevent
cleaning solution entering the cells. After cleaning,
connect cables to battery and coat the terminals

with
heavy grease.

e.
Inspect the battery cables and replace if badly
corroded
or frayed.
Check
tightness
of terminal
screws to ensure
good
electrical connections.
Check

the
tightness
of the negative ground cable con­nection at the frame to ensure a
good
ground
connection.
f.
Load
test
the battery. Connect a voltmeter across the battery. Run the starting motor for 15 seconds. If the
voltage
does
not drop below 10
volts the battery is satisfactory. If the
voltage
falls
below the figure given, yet the specific gravity is
above
1.225,
the condition of the battery is questionable.
g. Be sure the
engine
ground strap connection, 172

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM

14379

FIG.
H-56—PARKING
AND SIGNAL LIGHT (LATE) 1—
Screw

2—
Lens
3—
Gasket

4—
Bulb
5—
Cable

6— Housing H-131. Head
Lamp
Aiming Preparation

All
Jeep Universal-series lamps must be aimed on
the low beam. Lamps may be aimed either with mechanical aimers or by using a screen. If me­

chanical
aimers C-3674 are used,
follow
instruction
supplied with the aiming equipment. If a screen is to be used, preparation for aiming is as follows:

a.
Locate the vehicle in a darkened area with a level floor area and with a screen (may be a wall) having a nonreflecting white surface. A reference
line should be marked on the floor 25
feet
[7,62 m.]
away from and parallel to the screen. Position the vehicle perpendicular to the screen and with the
front head lamps directly over the reference line.
b. Locate the middle
tape
on the screen so that
it is aligned with the center line of the vehicle.
c. Equalize all tire pressures.

d.
Rock the vehicle from side to side to equalize springs and shock absorbers.
e. Measure the distance
between
vehicle head lamp centers.
Then,
position marker
tapes
vertically on
the screen to the right and
left
of the middle
tape
at half this distance.

f.
Measure the distance from the center of each
lamp to the surface on which the vehicle rests.
Position a marker
tape
horizontally on the screen

FIG.
H-57—TAIL, STOP AND

DIRECTIONAL
LIGHT
1—
Screw

2—
Lens

3—
Gasket

4—
Bulb
5— Housing and Cable Assembly
6— Nut and Lockwasher 10441
FIG.
H-58—TAIL AND
STOP LIGHT (EARLY)

1
—Ring

2—
Lens
3—
Gasket

4—
Retainer
5—
Bulb
6—
Gasket

7— Housing and Socket 214

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

K
ment, the shaft should have .004" to .008"
[0,102

a
0,203
mm.] end play. Adjustment is made by
selective
shim installation
between
the cap and the
case. Shims .003", .010" and .031" [0,076,
0,254,

0,787
mm.] in thickness are available for this ad­
justment. Do not install the rear cap oil seal until
the bearings are correctly adjusted. Both the front
and
rear oil seals may be installed with oil seal

driver
Tool W-143, shown in Fig. K-12.

When
installing the end yokes on the output shafts,
inspect for the presence of
felt
seals in each oil
seal guard. (The oil seal guard is a part of each
yoke assembly.) Felt seals should be installed in the oil seal guards if
they
are not present. When
installing the shift
rail
oil seals in the front bear­
ing cap, it is necessary to protect the seals against
damage when passing over the shift
rail
notches.
Protect them with the thimble, and install them with the driver, Tool W-130, shown in Fig. K-9.

K-7.
Transfer Case Installation

The
installation of the assembly in the vehicle is
the reverse of the removal operation covered in
Par.
K-2.

If
the transmission was removed from the vehicle,
lubricate the pilot bearing and also lubricate the
transmission and transfer case as outlined in the

"Lubrication
Section". Be sure that the clutch pedal has %"
[19,05
mm.] free travel as outlined

in
the
"Clutch
Section".

K-8.
Transfer Case Linkage Adjustment

Adjust
the link to provide
xh"
[12,7 mm.] clear­
ance
between
the floor pan and the shift lever
bend when operating in four wheel drive low
position. Refer to Fig. K-4.

K-3.
TRENSFER
CESE
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS

SYMPTOMS PROBABLE REMEDY

Slips
Out of
Gear (High-Low)
Shifting
Lock
Spring Weak Replace Spring

Bearing
Broken or Worn Replace
Shifting
Fork
Bent Replace

Slips
Out of
Front Wheel Drive
Shifting
Lock
Spring Weak. Replace

Bearing
Worn or Broken Replace

End
Play in Shaft. . . ..... Adjust Shifting
Fork
Bent.. Replace

Hard Shifting
Lack
of
Lubricant
Drain
and
Refill

Shift
Lever
Stuck on Shaft Remove, Clean and Lubricate
Shifting
Lock
Ball
Scored Replace
Ball

Shifting
Fork
Bent Replace
Fork

Low
Tire
Pressure Inflate

Grease Leak
at
Front
or
Rear Drive
Grease
Leak
at Covers. Install New Gaskets

Grease
Leak
between
Transmission and Transfer Cases Install New Gaskets

Grease
Leak
at Output Shaft Install New Oil Seal

K-10.
TRANSFER
CESE
SPECIFICATIONS

Transfer
Case:
All
Models

Spicer

18

On
Floor

Gear
Ratio: 1.00 to 1
2.46 to 1 273

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

M
M-19.
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS

SYMPTOMS
PROBABLE
REMEDY

Hard Steering
Lack
of
Lubrication
Lubricate
Tires
Soft.
. Inflate

Tight
Steering. Adjust. See "Steering" Section

Low Speed Shimmy
or
Wheel Fight
Spring
Clips and Shackles Loose
Front
Axle Shifted Insufficient Toe-In

Improper
Caster
Steering System Loose or Worn
Twisted Axle

High Speed Shimmy
or
Wheel Fight
Check
Conditions Under "Low Speed Shimmy"

Tire
Pressures Low or not
Equal

Wheel Out of Balance
Wheel Runout
Radial
Runout of Tires
Wheel Camber
Front
Springs
Settled
or Broken
Bent Steering Knuckle
Arm..................

Shock Absorbers not Effective
Steering
Gear
Loose on Frame

Front
Springs too Flexible

Tramp
Wheels Unbalanced

Wandering
Improper
Toe-in

Broken
Front Spring Main
Leaf

Axle Shifted Loose Spring Shackles or Clips
Improper
Caster

Tire
Pressure Uneven
Tightness in Steering System
Loose Wheel Bearings
Front
Spring
Settled
or Broken
Axle
Noisy
on
Pull
Pinion and Ring
Gear
Adjusted too Tight
Pinion Bearings Rough.

Axle Noisy
on
Coast
Excessive Back
Lash
at Ring and Pinion Gears.

End
Play in Pinion Shaft. . . Rough Bearing.

Axle Noisy
on
Coast
and
Pull
Ring
and Pinion Adjusted too Tight
Pinion Set too
Deep
in Ring
Gear
Pinion Bearing Loose or Worn

Back Lash
Axle Shaft Universal Joint Worn
Axle Shaft Improperly Adjusted

Worn
Differential Pinion Washers
Worn
Propeller Shaft Universal Joints.
Readjust
or Replace

Broken
Spring Center Bolt

Adjust
Reset

Adjust
or Overhaul Steering
Gear,
Front Axle or
Steering Parts
Straighten or Adjust
Inflate
Balance
Straighten Mount Properly
Same on Both Wheels
Repair
or Replace
Straighten or Replace
Replace or Repair Tighten

Over
Lubricated

Check
and Balance

Adjust—Check
for Bent Steering Knuckle Arm Replace

Spring
Center Bolt Broken
Adjust
or Replace
Reset Inflate

Adjust
Adjust
Repair
or Replace

Readjust

Replace

Readjust
Readjust

Replace

Readjust Readjust
Readjust
or Replace
Replace
Readjust

Replace

Repair

Emergency
Where difficulty is experienced with front axle differential making the vehicle inoperative,

remove
axle driving
flanges.
This will allow bringing vehicle in under its own power. Be sure the transfer
case
shift lever is in the neutral
(disengaged)
position.
285

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

O Note:
If the steering-gear-to-frame
bolts
are not

properly
torqued, they
will
eventually
loosen
dur­

ing operation of the vehicle. Loose
bolts
will
result
in
elongated
bolt
holes
making maintenance of bolt torque difficult, and may allow position of the
steering columns to be misaligned. Therefore,
proper
torquing is extremely important.
Do not tighten the steering gear to dampen out
steering trouble. Adjust the steering gear only to
remove lost motion or play within the unit.
0-5. Steering
Gear
Adjustment
The
cam and lever steering gear is illustrated in

Fig.
0-2. It consists of a
spiral
cam, and a cross shaft and lever assembly with two lever studs.
When
the steering wheel is turned, the cam
moves

the studs, causing rotary movement of the cross
shaft, which in
turn
causes angular movement of
the*steering arm.

Two
adjustments of the steering gear are necessary:
up and down play of the steering shaft, and adjust­ment of the lever studs (tapered pins) in the

cam
groove.

Adjustment
of the
ball
thrust bearings to eliminate up and down play of the steering shaft is ac­
complished by removing shims which are installed
between
the steering gear housing and the upper
cover. Before making this adjustment
loosen
the
housing side cover adjusting screw to free the pins
in
the cam groove. Loosen the housing cover to
cut and remove a shim or more as required.
Install
the screws and tighten. Adjustment should be
made to have a slight drag but allow the steering
wheel to
turn
freely with thumb and forefinger
lightly gripping the rim.

Shims
installed for adjustment are .002*, .003", and .010"
[.0508,
.0762
and .254 mm.] in thickness.

Adjustment
of the tapered pins in the cam
groove

is accomplished by adjusting screw. Unlock the

adjusting
screw and
turn
it in until a very slight
drag
is felt through the mid-position when turning
the steering wheel slowly from one extreme position
to the other.

Backlash
of the pins in the
groove
shows up as
end play of lever shaft, also as backlash of steer­ ing arm.

The
cam
groove
is purposely cut shallow in the

straight
ahead driving position for each pin.
This

feature permits a
close
adjustment for normal

straight
ahead driving and provides precision steer­ ing and permits take up of backlash at this point
after the wear occurs without causing a bind else­

where.
Always
adjust within the high range through
the mid-position of pin travel. Do not adjust off
"straight
ahead" position.
Backlash
in turned posi­
tions is not objectionable.
0-6.
Front
Wheel Alignment Adjustments
To
ensure correct alignment, a definite procedure
for inspection of the steering system is recom­ mended. It is
suggested
that the following sequence
be used:

a.
Equalize
tire pressures and level vehicle.
b.
Check
steering gear to steering column align­
ment.

c.
Inspect steering knuckle pivots, spindle, and
wheel bearing
looseness.

d.
Check
wheel runout.

e.
Test wheel balance and bearing adjustment.
f.
Check
for spring sag.
g.
Inspect brakes and shock absorbers.

h.
Check
steering gear assembly adjustment and
steering connecting rod.

i.
Check
caster,

j.
Check
toe-in.
k.
Check
toe-out
on turns.

I.
Check
camber.

m.
Check
tracking of front and
rear
wheels,

n.
Check
frame alignment.

The
factors of alignment, caster, camber, and toe-
in,
are all interrelated and if one adjustment is
made, another adjustment may be affected.
There­

fore, after an alignment job is completed, make a
complete recheck of all the adjustments to be sure
the
settings
are within the limit. Be sure all front
suspension and steering system nuts and
bolts
are

all
properly torqued before taking wheel alignment readings.

Proper
alignment of front wheels must be main­
tained in order to ensure
ease
of steering and satis­factory tire life.

The
most important factors of front wheel align­ment are wheel camber, axle caster and wheel
toe-in.

Wheel
toe-in is the distance the wheels are closer

together
at the front than at the
rear.
Wheel
camber is the amount the wheels incline out­

ward
at the top from a vertical position.
Front
axle caster is the amount in
degrees
that the
steering pivot pins are tilted towards the front or

rear
of the vehicle. Positive caster is inclination of
the top of the pivot pin towards the
rear
of the ve­

hicle.
Zero caster is the vertical position of the
pivot pin. Negative or reverse caster is the in­
clination
of the top of the pin towards the front
of the vehicle.

These
points should be checked at regular inter­
vals,
particularly when the front axle has been
subjected to a heavy impact. When checking wheel alignment, it is important that wheel bearings and

knuckle
bearings be in proper adjustment. Loose bearings
will
affect instrument readings when

checking
the camber, pivot pin inclination and
toe-in.
To
accurately check camber and caster, use a wheel
aligning fixture.
Camber
and caster of the front
wheels are both preset.
Camber
cannot be altered
but caster can be adjusted by installing caster shims
between
the axle pad and the springs. Wheel toe-in
may
be adjusted. To measure wheel toe-in, use a
wheel aligning fixture or follow the procedure given
in Par.
0-8.
0-7.
Front Wheel Toe-in
Toe-in
as illustrated in
Fig.
0-3, is necessary to
off­

set the
effect
of camber as shown in Fig. Q-4. 315

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

The
purpose of caster Fig. O-S, is to provide steer­
ing stability which
will
keep the front wheels in the
straight
ahead position and also assist in straighten­
ing up the wheels when coming out of a
turn.
Caster
of the front wheels is preset. If the angle of

caster,
when accurately measured, is found to be

incorrect,
correct it to the specification given at
the end of this section by either installing new

parts
or installing caster shims
between
the axle

pad
and the springs.

If
the camber and toe-in are correct and it is known
the the axle is not twisted, a satisfactory check

may
be made by testing the vehicle on the road.
Before road testing, make sure all tires are properly

inflated,
being particularly careful that both front
tires are inflated to exactly the same pressure.
If
vehicle turns easily to either side but is
hard
to
straighten out, insufficient caster for easy handling of vehicle is indicated. If correction is necessary, it

can
usually be accomplished by installing shims

between
the springs and axle pads to secure the
desired
result.
0-11-
Front
Wheel
Turning
Angle
When
the front wheels are turned, the inside wheel
on the
turn
travels in a smaller circle than the out­side wheel, therefore, it is necessary for the wheels
to toe out to prevent the tire on the inside wheel

frOm
being scuffed sideways.
This
angle for toe out
on turns is designed to permit both front wheels to

turn
on a common center by having the ends of the
steering
knuckle
arms closer
together
than the king­

pins.

To
avoid possible damage to the universal joints
on the front axles of 4-wheel drive vehicles, it is advisable to check the turning angle.
Wearing
away
of the upset
edge
on the spindle housing bolt which
10607

FIG.
0-6—TURNING
ANGLE
STOP
SCREW
1—Stop
Screw
contacts the
stop
screw
will
increase the turning
angle to the point where the universal joints may
be damaged.

The
Jeep Universal Series vehicles should have a

turning
angle of not more than 27^° both left and

right.
To adjust the
stop
screw, it is necessary to

loosen
the locknut holding the
stop
screw. When
the adjustment has been made, tighten the locknut
on the screw to prevent any movement. Refer to
Fig.
O 6.

The
left steering knuckle arm controls the relation­
ship of the front wheels on a left
turn
and the right
arm
controls the relation on a right
turn.

0-12. Steering
Knuckle
Arm

Should
a steering knuckle arm
become
bent, the

knuckle
housing must be replaced. It is not safe to
straighten the knuckle arm.
0-13.
Front
Wheel
Shimmy
Wheel
shimmy may be caused by various condi­
tions in the wheels, axle or steering system, or a
combination of
these
conditions. Outlined below

will
be found the usual corrections of this fault:

a.
Equalize
tire pressures and see that they are
according
to specifications.

b.
Check
the wheel bearings for
looseness.
Be sure
that the inner wheel bearing race is not too
loose
on the spindle.

c.
Remove both steering knuckles and carefully inspect the upper and lower king pin bearings.

Inspect
the bearing cups for evidence of brinelling,
pitting, or fretting. Any bearings that show the slightest imperfection must be
replaced.
Reassemble

and
lubricate the front axle and steering linkage,
installing
new steering knuckle oil seals if present
seals show any wear.

d.
With
full
weight on the front wheels and one

man
working the steering play with the steering
wheel, a second man should closely observe the steering bell
crank
for any rocking motion and the
double tie rod socket for any rocking motion or

looseness
at both points. Replace the complete bell
crank
assembly if it has even the slightest rocking motion. The same applies to the double tie rod
socket.
e.
Check
wheel run-out.
This
check should include
radial
run-out and wheel
looseness
on the hub.
f- Test wheel balance—check for blowout patches,
uniform
tire tread, vulcanized tires, mud on inside
of wheels, and tires creeping on the
rims.

g.
Try
switching front wheels and tires to the
rear,
criss-crossing
them in this operation.

h.
Check
for front
spring
sag. Also check for broken

spring
leaves, broken center
spring
bolt,
loose
spring

clips
(or tight clips), over-lubrication of spring leaves, spring shackle bracket
loose
on frame, and

loose
rear
spring shackle. Be sure that the shock
absorbers
are operating properly to eliminate bob­bing of the front end.

i.
Check
brakes to make sure that one
does
not

drag.

j.
Check
the steering assembly and steering con­ necting rod.
This
includes the up-and-down-play
of the steering worm shaft, end play of the cross 317