'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL
develop
into surface cracks and cause failure.
Measure
the over all free length of the springs and
replace any that do not measure to standard: 1%" [35,7 mm.] for intake valve springs and 2j^"
[63,5 mm.] for exhaust valve springs. If possible,
check each valve spring in a valve spring testing
fixture C-647 or equivalent as shown in Fig. D-l9.
Test
each spring when compressed to the two
different spring lengths given (representing valve closed and valve open spring length). If any spring
fails to register spring tension equal to or greater
than
the minimum load limit in pounds specified for that spring length, replace the spring.
Length
Minimun
Load
Intake
valve spring. . .
1.660"
[4,216 cm.] 66 lb. [29,9 kg.]
1.400"
[3,556 cm.] 140 lb. [63,5 kg.]
Exhaust
valve spring. 2.109" [5,356 cm.] 47 lb. [21,3 kg.]
1.750"
[4,445 cm.] 110 lb. [49,9 kg.]
Note:
When using a spring checking fixture C-647
or
equivalent as shown in Fig. D-l9, it is necessary
to convert the torque wrench reading which is in pounds-feet to the static pound pressure specified above according to the instructions furnished with
the wrench. For example, should the torque wrench reading be 50 lb-ft. and the wrench is two
feet
long
the static pressure of the spring
will
be 50 x 2 or 100 lbs.
Clean
the valve
guides
with a standard valve guide
cleaner or a wire
brush.
Check
the valve
guides
in the cylinder block. Replace valve
guides
which are
broken
or worn enough to cause excessive valve
stem-to-guide
clearance. See Par. D-61.
Standard
intake valve clearance is .0007" to .0022"
[0,0178
a
0,0559
mm.] and the exhaust valve
clearance is .0025" to .0045" [0,0635 a
0,1143
mm.].
Excessive
clearance
between
the valve
stems
and
guides
will
cause improper seating and burned
valves. When there is a tendency to draw oil vapor
through the guide causing excessive oil consump tion, fouled
spark
plugs, and poor low-speed per
formance. To check the clearance of the valve stem
to the valve guide, take a new valve and place in
each valve guide.
Check
the clearance with a
suitably mounted
dial
indicator or feel the clearance by moving the valve stem back and forth. If this
check shows excessive clearance it
will
be necessary to replace the valve guide.
D-58.
Refacing Valves
Re
face the valves with a valve refacer. The valve
refacer
manufacturer's instructions should be fol
lowed carefully to ensure a valve face concentric
with
the valve stem. Reface both intake and ex
haust valves to an angle of 46°.
Take
off only the
minimum
of metal required to clean up the valve faces.
If
the thickness of the
edge
of the valve head is
reduced to
less
than
J^>"
[0>8 mm.] replace the valve.
Note:
Cocked or deformed valve springs or im
properly
installed or missing locks can be responsible
for valve problems.
D-59.
Valve Seat Inspection
and
Refacing
Inspect the valve
seats
for
cracks,
burns, pitting,
ridges, or improper angle.
During
any general
engine
overhaul it is advisable to reface the valve
seats
in both the cylinder block and head regardless
of their condition. If the valve
guides
are to be re placed, this must be
done
before refacing the valve
seats.
Note
that later
engines
have hardened
exhaust valve seat inserts.
Valve
seat inserts must be concentric with finish
ream
of valve stem
guides
(exhaust) within .002"
[0,051
mm.] total indicator reading.
When
necessary to reface the valve seats, use a
valve seat grinder in accordance with the grinder
manufacturer's
instructions. Any grinding of valve
seats
should be preceded by touching up the
grinding
stone
so that their angles are accurate and
the
stone
is not
clogged.
Grind
each valve seat to
a
true 45° angle. Never grind any more than is necessary to clean up pits, grooves, or to correct
the valve seat runout.
Check
the valve
seats
with
10465
FIG.
D-20—VALVE
WITH
ROTO
CAP
FIG.
D-21—GAUGING
VALVE
SEATS
55
D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE d.
Remove the intake valve adjusting screw lock-
nuts from each of the rocker arm valve lash ad
justing
screws. Remove the screws from the rocker
arms.
D-76.
Inspection and
Repair
Run
a round wire brush through the bore of the
rocker
arm shaft and clean out the drilled oil holes.
Clean
out the oil
holes
in the rocker arm shaft
brackets,
and the oil
holes
and
grooves
in the bores
of the rocker arm.
Inspect
the diameter of the shaft at the rocker arm
bearing
areas. Replace the shaft if there are scores
or
abrasion marks along the length of the shaft.
Check
the shaft for alignment by rolling it across
a
smooth level surface. If the shaft
will
not
roll
freely, or if it rolls with a bumping motion, the
shaft is out of alignment and must be replaced.
Inspect
the threads of the adjusting screw
hole
in
the rocker arms and if necessary clean with a
proper
size tap. Replace the adjusting screw lock-
nut or the adjusting screw if either part is damaged
or
deformed.
Inspect
the threads in the tapped
hole
in the top
of the rocker arm shaft brackets and if necessary
clean
with a proper size tap. Replace the bracket
if
either side is worn or scored.
D-77.
Reassembly
a.
Install
two rocker arm shaft plugs, one in each
end of the shaft. Slide two
rocker
arm
shaft brackets
onto
the center of the shaft. Align the tapped
holes
in
the brackets with the drilled
holes
in the top of
the shaft and install the rocker arm shaft lock
screws,
making sure the points of the screws enter
the drilled
holes
in the shaft.
b.
Screw the intake valve adjusting screws into
the rocker arms and install the locknuts.
c.
The rocker arms are paired; that is, two of the
arms
are angled to the right and two are angled to
the left. One of each type is used on each end of
the rocker arm shaft. Slide a rocker arm with the
adjusting
screw end of the rocker arm angling
away
from the bracket
onto
the shaft so that the
adjusting
screw is on the same side of the shaft
as the mounting
hole
in the bracket.
d.
Temporarily
secure the end bracket in place by
installing
a rocker arm cover stud in the tapped
opening in the top of the support.
e. Assemble the parts on the
opposite
end of the
rocker
arm shaft repeating
steps
c and d above.
D-78. ENGINE REASSEMBLY
The
engine
reassembly procedure in the following
paragraphs
is given in the sequence to be followed
when the
engine
is being completely overhauled.
Individual
inspection,
repair,
and fitting operations
previously covered in detail are made throughout
the reassembly procedure. The reassembly pro
cedure
does
not cover accessories. If a new cylinder
block
fitted with pistons is used, many of the
operations
will
not be required.
Mount
the cylinder block in an
engine
repair stand.
If
an
engine
stand is not available, perform the fol
lowing reassembly operation in a manner designed to protect personnel against an accident and the
engine
and its parts against damage.
Note:
During
engine
reassembly, use Perfect Seal
Aerosol
Spray
Sealer
Part
No.
994757
on all
engine
gaskets to ensure against vacuum, oil, gasoline and
water
leaks. Apply to head gaskets, valve covers,
water
pumps, oil pan gaskets, radiator and heater
hose
connections, felt gaskets, gasoline and oil line
connections, stud bolts,
spark
plug threads, and
grease retainer washers. Refer to manufacturer's in
structions on container for proper application pro
cedure.
D-79.
Install
Oil
Gallery
Plug
Coat
plug threads with a suitable sealing compound
and
install the plugs in the front and
rear
ends of
the oil gallery in the cylinder block and the
rear
end of the cylinder head. Torque the plugs 20 to 25 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,4 kg-m.].
There
is also a pipe plug
(}/g,f
[3,2 mm.] slotted, headless) in the opening in the main oil gallery inside the cylinder block at No. 2 cylinder and another pipe plug
(}/g
"
square-head) in the opening
in
the oil passage directly below the oil pump intake
passage. If
these
two pipe plugs were removed,
make
certain they are reinstalled in the locations
described above or the counterweight of the
crankshaft
might strike the projecting head of the
square-head
plug.
D-80.
Install
Tappets
Turn
the block upside down. Beginning at the
rear
end of the cylinder block, install the intake
and
exhaust valve tappets in the tappet bores in the cylinder block in the following order: one
exhaust, two intake, two exhaust, two intake, and
finally
one exhaust valve tappet.
Check
the tappet to bore fit of each tappet as it
is installed in the block. If the stem-to-block
clearance
tolerance of .0005" to .002" [0,0127 a
0,051 mm.] is
exceeded
install a new tappet fitting
within
this tolerance or ream the bore to accomo date the next oversize tappet which is available
in
.004" oversize.
D-81.
Install
Camshaft and
Thrust
Plate
Lubricate
all camshaft bearings and cam surfaces generously with clean, light
engine
oil.
Carefully,
so not to damage or score the camshaft front bear
ing,
install the camshaft, locating it properly in the bearings. Do not allow the
rear
end of the camshaft to strike sharply against the expansion plug
installed
in the
rear
end of the bore.
Install
the camshaft thrust plate. Slide the thrust
plate spacer
onto
the end of the camshaft with the
beveled inner
edge
of the spacer facing the cam
shaft. If the same camshaft is being reinstalled,
install
any shims previously removed. These shims
are
placed
between
the camshaft shoulder and the
spacer.
Torque the thrust plate attaching
bolts
20
to 26 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,6 kg-m.].
End
play of the camshaft is determined by running
clearance
between
the
rear
face of the camshaft
gear and the thrust plate. The standard clearance 62
D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
D-101.
Install
Manifold
If
manifold studs were removed for replacement,
apply sealer on the stud threads
before
installing
a
new stud.
See Section Fl for exhaust emission controlled
engines.
Make
certain that no foreign objects are inside the manifold and that all
passages
are clear. Place a
new set of manifold
gaskets
in position on the side
of the cylinder block.
Then,
carefully slide the manifold
onto
the studs and against the cylinder block being careful not to damage the gaskets.
Torque
all manifold attaching nuts evenly 29 to
35 lb-ft. [4,0 a 4,8 kg-m.].
D-102.
Install
Oil
Filler
Tube
When
installing the oil filler tube, be sure that the
beveled lower end is away from the crankshaft.
Place a
piece
of
hard
wood
over the top of the
tube
to prevent damage to the cap gasket seat.
D-103.
Install
Water Pump
Make
certain that the mating surfaces of the water pump and the cylinder block are clean and smooth.
Install
the gasket on the
flange
of the pump and
install
the pump in position on the cylinder block.
Torque
the water pump attaching
bolts
alternately
and
evenly 12 to 17 lb-ft. [1,7 a 2,3 kg-m.].
D-104.
Install
Water Outlet Fitting
Install
the thermostat and the water
outlet
fitting.
Torque
the water
outlet
fitting attaching
bolts
20
to 25 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,4 kg-m.].
FIG.
D-42—INSTALLING HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
IN
VEHICLE
1—
Lifting
Sling
2— Hoist
Cable
3—
Hurricane
F4 Engine
4— Dowel Bolt
5—
Flywheel
Housing
D-105.
ENGINE INSTALLATION
a.
Install
lifting sling to
engine
and using suitable hoist raise the
engine
from its blocking or stand
and
then slowly lower it
into
the
engine
compartment of the vehicle.
Note:
When installing the
Hurricane
F4 Engine,
two % x 4 inch
guide
bolts
or
dowels
should be
used to properly
guide
and align the
engine
to the
flywheel housing (See Fig. D-42).
b. Slightly tilt the
engine
downward and at the
same time slide the
engine
rearward
while lining up the transmission main gear shaft with the clutch
throw-out bearing and disc spline.
Note
:The
engine
crankshaft may have to be turned
slightly to align the transmission main gear shaft
with the clutch disc spline.
c. Remove the
guide
bolts
or
dowels
and secure
the
engine
to the housing.
d.
Secure the front
engine
mounts to the frame brackets and
bolt
ground cable to
engine.
e. Remove lifting sling from
engine.
f. Connect exhaust pipe to
engine
manifold flange.
g. Connect throttle and choke cables to carburetor.
h.
Install
fan to water pump pulley.
i.
Connect fuel pump line to main fuel line,
j.
Replace starting motor assembly. k. Connect
engine
wiring harness connectors at
front of cowl.
I.
Connect wires to starting motor assembly, water
temperature and oil pressure sending units and alternator.
NOTE:
ON
ENGINES EQUIPPED WITH EX
HAUST
EMISSION CONTROL,
REPLACE
THE
AIR
PUMP,
AIR
DISTRIBUTOR
MANI
FOLD,
AND
ANTI-BACKFIRE (DIVERTER)
VALVE.
SEE
SECTION
Fl.
m. Replace radiator and radiator grille support
rods and connect coolant
hoses
to
engine.
Note:
Replace heater
hoses
if vehicle is equipped
with hot water heater.
n. Fill
radiator with coolant and
engine
with oil
(see
Lubrication
Chart).
o.
Install
air cleaner and connect carburetor air
hose.
p. Connect battery cables and start
engine,
q.
Install
hood
and road
test
vehicle.
D-103.
FINAL
IN-VEHICLE
ADJUSTMENTS
a.
Clean
battery terminals and check battery. b.
Check
ignition terminals and check battery.
c. Service carburetor air cleaner.
d.
Service positive crankcase ventilation valve.
e.
Check
fuel lines. f. Gap and install new
spark
plugs.
g.
Check
distributor
points
and capacitor; replace
if
necessary. 68
D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
D-112.
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS
Poor
Fuel
Economy Ignition Timing Slow or Spark Advance Stuck
Carburetor
Float High
Accelerator Pump Not Properly Adjusted
High
Fuel
Pump Pressure
Fuel
Leakage
Leaky
Fuel
Pump Diaphragm
Loose Engine Mounting Causing High
Fuel
Level
in
Carburetor
Low
Compression Valves Sticking
Spark
Plugs Bad
Spark
Plug Cables Bad Weak
Coil
or Condenser Improper Valve Tappet Clearance
Carburetor
Air Cleaner Dirty
High Oil Level in Air Cleaner Dragging Brakes
Front
Wheels Out of Alignment
Tires
Improperly Inflated Inaccurate Odometer
Faulty
Fuel
Tank
Cap
Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe
Lack
of Power
Low
Compression Ignition System (Timing Late)
Improper Functioning Carburetor or
Fuel
Pump
Fuel
Lines
Clogged
Air
Cleaner Restricted
Engine Temperature High Improper Tappet Clearance
Sticking Valves Valve Timing Late
Leaky
Gaskets
Muffler
Clogged
Bent Exhaust Pipe
Defective
Spark Plugs—Clean or Replace
Defective
Breaker Points—Replace
Points
Incorrect Breaker Point Gap—Reset
Points
Defective
Condenser or Coil—Replace
Loose Electrical Connections—Locate and Tighten
Broken Valve Spring—Replace Spring Broken Piston or Rings—Replace
Defective
Head Gasket—Replace Gasket
Cracked
Distributor Cap—Replace Cap
Low
Compression
Leaky
Valves
Poor Piston Ring Seal Sticking Valves
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
Cylinder
Scored or Worn
Tappet Clearance Incorrect
Piston Clearance too Large
Leaky
Cylinder Head Gasket
Burned Valves and
Seats
Sticking Valves or too Loose in Guides Improper Timing
Excessive Carbon Around Valve Head and Seat Overheating
Valve Spring Weak or Broken Burned Valves and Seats—Continued
Valve Tappet Sticking
Valve Tappet Clearance Incorrect
Clogged
Exhaust System
Valves Sticking Warped Valve Improper Tappet Clearance
Carbonized or Scored Valve
Stems
Insufficient Clearance Valve Stem to Guide
Weak or Broken Valve Spring Valve Spring Cocked Contaminated Oil
Overheating Inoperative Cooling System
Thermostat Inoperative Improper Ignition Timing
Improper Valve Timing
Excessive Carbon Accumulation
Fan
Belt too Loose
Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe
Oil
System Failure
Scored or Leaky Piston Rings
Popping-Spitting-Detonation
Improper Ignition
Improper Carburetion
Excessive Carbon
Deposit
in Combustion
Cham
bers
Poor Valve Seating Sticking Valves
Broken Valve Spring Tappets Adjusted too Close
Spark
Plug Electrodes Burned
Water or Dirt in
Fuel
Clogged
Lines Improper Valve Timing
Excessive Oil Comsumption Piston Rings Stuck in Grooves, Worn or Broken Piston Rings Improperly Fitted or Weak Piston Ring Oil Return
Holes
Clogged
Excessive Clearance, Main and Connecting Rod
Bearings
Oil
Leaks at Gaskets or Oil Seals
Excessive Clearance, Valve Stem to Valve Guide (Intake)
Cylinder
Bores Scored, Out-of-Round or Tapered Too Much Clearance, Piston to Cylinder Bore
Misaligned Connecting Rods
High Road
Speeds
or Temperature
Crankcase
Ventilator Not Operating
Bearing Failure
Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Out-of-Round
Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Rough
Lack
of Oil
Oil
Leakage
Dirty
Oil
Low
Oil Pressure or Oil Pump Failure
Drilled
Passages
in Crankcase or Crankshaft
Clogged
Oil
Screen Dirty Connecting Rod Bent 70
'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL
Dl
DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE
Contents
SUBJECT
PAR.
SUBJEC
GENERAL
.... . . Dl-1 Oil Pump Cl(
ENGINE DESCRIPTION
D1-2
Engine
Mounts Dl-3
ENGINE REMOVAL
Dl-4
ENGINE DISASSEMBLY
Dl-5
Alternator
and Fan Belt Dl-11
Camshaft
.... Dl-26
Cooling Fan and Water Pump.
......
.Dl-12
Crankshaft
Front Oil Seal .Dl-21
Crankshaft
Pulley D1-17
Crankshaft
Vibration Damper Dl-18
Cylinder
Head Assembly Dl-24
Distributor
Dl-9
Exhaust
Manifold .Dl-8
Flywheel
Dl-28
Flywheel
Housing and
Clutch
Dl-27
Fuel
Pump. ... . .Dl-10
Intake
Manifold and
Carburetor
Assembly.
.............
.Dl-7
Main
Bearing and Crankshaft. Dl-32 Mounting Engine on Engine Stand. . . . .Dl-6
Oil
Dipstick. Dl-16
Oil
Filter
Dl-13
Oil
Pan.. ...
.......
.Dl-29
Oil
Pressure Sending Unit Dl-15
Oil
Pump Dl-19
Oil
Pump Intake Pipe and Screen Dl-30
Piston and Rod Assembly. Dl-31
Push
Rod and Valve
Lifter.
.Dl-25
Rocker
Arm Cover Dl-23
Starter
Motor Dl-14
Timing
Chain
and Sprocket Dl-22
Timing
Chain
Cover Dl-20
ENGINE CLEANING, INSPECTION AND REPAIR
. . ... .Dl-33
Camshaft
Cleaning and Inspection Dl-55
Connecting Rod Bearing Inspection
and
Fitting .Dl-49
Crankshaft
Cleaning Dl-38
Crankshaft
Inspection and Repair Dl-39
Crankshaft
Main Bearing Cleaning
and
Inspection Dl-41
Crankshaft
Main Bearings. Dl-40
Crankshaft
Pulley Inspection. Dl-70
Crankshaft
Vibration Damper Inspection. D1-69
Cylinder
Block .Dl-34
Cylinder
Block Cleaning Dl-35
Cylinder
Block Inspection Dl-36
Cylinder
Block Repair. .Dl-37
Cylinder
Head and Valve Repair .Dl-63
Cylinder
Head and Valve Cleaning
and
Inspection.. . .Dl-62
Flywheel
Cleaning and Inspection Dl-52
Flywheel
Housing Cleaning
and
Inspection Dl-54
Hydraulic
Valve
Lifter
Leakdown Test. .Dl-57
Main
Bearing Fitting or
Shim
Stock Dl-42, Dl-43
Oil
Pan Cleaning and Inspection .Dl-51
PAR.
and
Inspection. .... .Dl-68
Oil
Pump Intake and Screen Cleaning. . .Dl-50
Piston and Rod Assembly.
...........
.Dl-48
Piston and Rod Cleaning and Inspection.D1-45
Piston and Rod Disassembly Dl-44
Piston Fitting Dl-46
Piston Ring Fitting. .Dl-47
Ring
Gear
Replacement. .Dl-53
Rocker
Arm Assembly. Dl-60
Rocker
Arm Cleaning and Inspection. . .Dl-59
Rocker
Arm Cover Cleaning
and
Inspection D1-65
Rocker
Arm Disassembly .Dl-58
Timing
Chain
and Sprocket Inspection. . .Dl-66
Timing
Chain
Cover Cleaning
and
Inspection.. . Dl-67
Valve
Installation D1-64
Valve
Lifter
and Push Rod
Cleaning
and Inspection. . Dl-56
Valve
Removal Dl-61
ENGINE REASSEMBLY
Dl-71
Alternator
and Fan Belt Dl-96
Camshaft
Dl-80
Clutch
and Flywheel Housing Dl-79
Cooling Fan.. . .Dl-95
Crankshaft
End Play Check. . Dl-74
Crankshaft
Front Oil Seal Dl-85
Crankshaft
Pulley Dl-89
Crankshaft
Vibration Damper Dl-88
Cylinder
Block and Crankshaft
Rear
Oil Seals Dl-72
Cylinder
Head Assembly .Dl-82
Distributor
Dl-99
Exhaust
Manifold Dl-98
Flywheel
.Dl-78
Fuel
Pump.. .. . Dl-97
Intake
Manifold and Carburetor Assembly Dl-101
Main
Bearing and
Crankshaft
Installation
.
Dl-73
Oil
Filter
Dl-93
Oil
Level
Dipstick Dl-90
Oil
Pan Dl-77
Oil
Pressure Sending Unit Dl-91
Oil
Pump.. .Dl-87
Oil
Pump Intake and Screen Assembly. .Dl-76
Piston and Rod Installation Dl-75
Rocker
Arm Cover. Dl-83
Spark
Plugs.. Dl-100
Starter
Motor Dl-92
Timing
Chain
and Sprocket.
..........
.Dl-84
Timing
Chain
Cover Dl-86
Valve
Lifter
and Push Rod Dl-81
Water
Pump. Dl-94
ENGINE INSTALLATION
Dl-102
FINAL
IN-VEHICLE
ADJUSTMENTS.
D1-103
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS
Dl-104
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
. .Dl-105 75
Dl
DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE
e.
Connect electrical wiring harness to coolant
temperature sending unit. Connect two distributor leads to ignition coil. Connect fuel line
between
fuel pump and carburetor, vacuum
hose
between
distributor and carburetor, and crankcase vent
hose
to intake manifold
below
rear
of carburetor.
FIG.
D1-46—-INTAKE
MANIFOLD
INSTALLATION
1—Long Bolt 2—Open Bolt Hole
Dl-102.
ENGINE INSTALLATION
Install
the
engine
in the vehicle in the following
procedure listed
below:
a.
Attach suitable sling to
engine
lifting
eyes
and,
using a hoist, lift the
engine
from blocks or
engine
stand.
b. When
engine
is free of the stand lower it slowly
into
the
engine
compartment of the vehicle.
Note:
The
engine
and transmission must be lined
up to
engage
the main shaft and clutch plate spline
while sliding the
engine
rearward
into
the mounting
position.
c.
Install
and tighten up
bolts
securing
engine
to
flywheel housing.
d.
Install
and tighten front
engine
mounting bolts.
e.
Remove sling from the
engine.
I.
Connect exhaust pipes to right and
left
engine
manifolds.
g. Connect choke cable support bracket to
car
buretor.
h.
Connect
engine
fuel
hoses
and fuel lines at right
frame
rail.
I.
Connect fuel lines.
j.
Mount
engine
starter motor assembly to
engine.
k.
Connect battery cable and wiring to
engine
starter
motor.
I.
Connect
engine
wiring harnesses to connectors
located on
engine
firewall.
Note:
On
engines
equipped with exhaust emission
control, replace the air pump, air distributor mani
fold, and anti-backfire (gulp) valve. See Section F2.
m. Replace radiator, and secure with bolts,
n.
Replace and tighten right and
left
radiator sup
port rods.
0. Connect upper and lower radiator
hoses
to the
engine.
p. Connect alternator wiring harness from connec
tor at regulator,
q.
Replace air cleaner.
r.
Connect battery ground cable from the battery
to the
engine
and the
engine
ground strap,
s.
Replace the hood.
After
the
engine
is installed in the vehicle,
fill
radiator
with coolant and
engine
with oil (Refer to
Lubrication
Section B), then perform an
engine
Tune-up
and road
test
(Refer to Tune-up Sec
tion C).
Dl-103.
FINAL IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS
a.
Clean
battery terminals and check battery.
b.
Check
ignition wires and connections.
c. Service carburetor air cleaner.
d.
Service positive crankcase ventilation valve.
e.
Check
fuel lines.
f. Gap and install new
spark
plugs.
g.
Check
distributor
points
and capacitor; replace
if
necessary.
h.
Check
ignition (distributor) timing; reset if
necessary. 1.
Check
carburetor adjustments; reset if necessary,
j.
With
engine
fully warmed up, tighten cylinder
head and manifold
bolts
and nuts to specified
torque.
Check
cylinder head
gaskets
and
bolts
for
air
or coolant leaks.
Note:
Tightness of cylinder head
bolts
should be
checked and corrected after 500 miles [800 km.]
of normal operation and again at 1000 miles [1600
km.].
k.
Check
fan belt tension; adjust if necessary.
I.
Check
for and correct any oil leak, fuel leak or
coolant leak. 104
E
FUEL
SYSTEM
E-78. SERVICE DIHGNOSIS
Symptoms Probable Remedy
Excessive
Fuel
Consumption:
Tires
improperly inflated Inflate
Brakes
drag Adjust
Engine
operates too cold Check thermostat
Heat control valve inoperative Check thermostatic spring
Leak
in fuel line Check all connections
Carburetor
float level high. See
"Carburetor"
section
Accelerator pump not properly adjusted Adjust
Leaky
fuel pump diaphragm Replace
Loose
engine
mountings causing high carburetor fuel level Tighten Ignition timing slow or spark advance stuck See "Distributor" section
Low
compression. Check valve tappet clearance
Air
cleaner dirty
.
Remove and clean
Engine
Hesitates on Acceleration: Accelerator pump
does
not function perfectly.
...................
.Replace piston and rod or adjust
Carburetor
float level. ... .Adjust
Spark
plugs Replace or clean and adjust
Low
compression Check valves
Distributor
points—dirty or pitted Replace
Weak
condenser or coil Replace
Carburetor
jets restricted Remove and clean
Excessive
engine
heat See "Engine" section
Engine
Stalls—Won't Idle:
Improper
condition of carburetor See
"Carburetor"
section
Low
speed
jet restricted Remove and clean
Dirty
fuel sediment bowl screen Remove and clean
Air
cleaner dirty Remove and clean
Leaky
manifold or gasket Replace
Fuel
pump diaphragm porous. Replace
Loose carburetor. Tighten
flange
nuts
Water
in fuel
Drain
and clean system
Improper
ignition. .See "Distributor" section
Spark
plugs Clean and adjust
Valves
sticking.
Grind
valves 134
'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL
H
FIG.
H-l—ENGINE
GROUND
STRAP—F4
ENGINE
Fig.
H-l, is tight at both connections. If
these
connections are
loose
-
or
dirty,
hard
starting or
failure
to start may result.
H-3.
Ignition System
The
ignition system consists of the battery, ignition
switch,
ignition coil ballast resistor (V-6 engine
only),
ignition coil, ignition distributor,
spark
plugs,
and
the low and high tension wiring.
Electrical
energy is obtained from the battery while cranking
and
from the alternator after the engine is running.
These
supply circuits must be considered part of
the ignition system.
The
ignition system furnishes the
spark
-for the
spark
plugs. The
spark
must occur in each cylinder
at exactly the proper time. To accomplish this, the following units are required.
a.
The battery, supplying the electrical energy.
Note: 'Jeep* vehicles equipped with Dauntless
V-6
engines have a ballast resistor connected be tween the ignition switch and the positive (+)
terminal
of the coil. The ballast resistor limits to
a
safe maximum the
primary
current flow through
the coil and the distributor contact points.
b.
The ignition coil, transforming the battery low
tension current to high tension current that jumps
the
spark
plug gap in the cylinders under com
pression.
c.
The distributor, delivering the
spark
to the
proper
cylinders and incorporates the mechanical
breaker,
that
opens
and closes the
primary
circuit at the exact time.
d.
The
spark
plugs, providing the gap in the engine
cylinders.
e. The wiring, connecting the various ignition
units.
f. The ignition switch controling the battery
current
when it is desired to start or
stop
the engine.
g. The firing order for the
Hurricane
F4 engine is
1-3-4-2.
Cylinder
No. 1 is the cylinder closest to the
radiator.
h.
The firing order for the Dauntless V-6 engine
is
1-6-5-4-3-2.
Cylinders
1-3-5 are on the left bank
and
cylinders 2-4-6 are on the right bank. H-4.
PRIMARY
CIRCUIT
Before testing the
primary
circuit,
make certain
that the battery is satisfactory or install a fully
charged
battery for the
primary
circuit
tests. Also,
check
the starter motor for excessive voltage drop
and
check the starter motor itself for excessive
draw.
a.
Measure the voltage at the coil
primary
termi
nals
while cranking the engine with the starter
motor. If the voltage is less than 9 volts the trouble
will
be found in the
primary
circuit.
If there is no voltage at all, check for a break in the
primary
circuit,
possibly in the coil
primary
winding.
b.
To check the
primary
circuit,
turn
the ignition
on,
turn
the engine until the points are closed, and
then measure the voltage drop across each portion
of the circuit with a voltmeter.
Note: Most voltage drops
will
be found at the con
nections of wires to terminals as
dirt,
oxidation etc. can cause excessive resistance at
these
points.
Measure
voltage drops in wires to take this into
account.
c.
Connect the voltmeter from the battery cable
terminal
on the starter solenoid to the battery
terminal
of the coil
primary.
If the voltmeter reads more than 0.2 volt, perform the checks given in
steps, d, e, and f following.
d.
Connect the voltmeter from the solenoid termi
nal
to the battery terminal of the ignition switch.
If
the voltmeter reads more than .05 volt, check
and
clean the connections at solenoid, light switch,
and
ignition switch.
e. If the voltmeter reading in
step
d is less than .05 volt, connect the voltmeter from the battery
terminal
to the ignition terminal on the ignition
switch.
If the voltage drop is more than 0.1 volt,
repair
or replace the ignition switch.
f. If the voltage drop in
step
e is not more than 0.1 volt, connect the voltmeter from the ignition
terminal
of the ignition switch to the battery termi
nal
of the coil
primary.
If the voltmeter reads more
than
.05 volt, clean and tighten the connections
and
check again. If the voltmeter again reads more
than
.05 volt, replace the wire.
g. Connect the voltmeter from the distributor
primary
terminal on the coil to the coil terminal on
the distributor. Voltage drop should not exceed .05 volt.
Clean
and tighten connections if necessary.
h.
Connect the voltmeter from the coil terminal
on the distributor to a clean,
paint-
free spot on the
distributor
body. The reading should not exceed .05
volt. If more, it indicates excessive resistance
through the points or in the distributor internal connections.
Clean
and align the points and make
sure
the breaker arm connection to the
primary
terminal
as well as the stationary contact point mounting in the body is clean and tight.
i.
Open the points and check the voltmeter. It
should read close to peak voltage. Low voltage in dicates that a circuit through the distributor (a
short)
exists while the points are open.
j.
Disconnect the condenser lead and open the points. A jump to
full
voltage indicates a short in 173