1953 JEEP DJ ignition

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

C

FIG.
C-2
7—FAN
BELT
—
DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE
e. Adjust mixture by turning idle mixture screws
out (counterclockwise) until a loss of engine speed
is indicated; then, slowly
turn
both mixture screws

in
clockwise (leaner) until maximum speed (RPM)
is reached. Continue turning in (clockwise) until a slight drop in speed (RPM) is noted. Make certain
both mixture screws are adjusted equally.
This
will

ensure a "lean as possible" mixture adjustment.

Readjust
idle
stop
screw to idle engine at the
specified
R.P.M.

Note:
This
method of adjusting idle mixture must
be used to keep hydrocarbon and carbon monoxide
emissions to a minimum.

Note:
No fast idle speed adjustment is required.

Fast
idle is controlled by the curb idle speed ad­ justment screw. If the curb idle speed is correctly set, the fast idle speed
will
be correct.
C-26.
Dash
Pot
Adjustment

Refer
to Section
E, Par.
E-44 for proper carburetor

dash
pot adjustment procedure.

C-27.
Check
Fan
Belt

The
fan belt drives the fan, alternator, and water

pump.
See Fig. C-27.

Inspect
the fan belt for serviceability and proper
tension. The tension should be checked with the
Belt
Tension Gauge, W-283. The correct tension on a used belt is 70 to 80 pounds [31,7 a 36,2 kg.]

and
on a new belt 110 to 120 pounds [49,8 a 54,5 kg.]. When preparing for delivery of new car,
the belt strand tension should be 80 to 110 pounds [36,2 a 49,8 kg.]. When installing a new belt, adjust
the strand tension 110 to 120 pounds [49,8 a 54,5 kg.].

Adjust
the fan belt tension by loosening the clamp
bolt on the alternator brace and swinging the alter­

nator
away from the engine until proper belt ten­
sion is obtained.
Then
tighten the clamp bolt.

Note:
If no
gauge
is available approximate correct
tension is obtained when the thumb pressure mid­
way between the pulleys causes the belt to flex
y%
inch
[IV4
cm.].

C-28.
ROAD TEST VEHICLE

After
completing the tune-up, road
test
the vehicle for power and overall performance. Make neces­
sary
adjustments.

Note:
Engine run on or "dieseling" is a condition

in
which combustion continues to take place after
the normal ignition
spark
from the distributor has
been shut off by turning off the ignition switch. It is generally caused by excessive engine idle speed

in
combination with retarded ignition timing, en­ gine heat soak or the use of low octane fuel.

Should
engine dieseling (engine running after igni­
tion key is turned off) be experienced on V-6 engine equipped vehicles, installation of Idle Stop
Valve
Kit
Part
No. 991722
will
correct the

difficulty.
33

TUNE-UP

C-29.
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS

POOR
FUEL ECONOMY Ignition Timing Slow or Spark Advance Stuck

Carburetor
Float High
Accelerator Pump Not Properly Adjusted High Fuel Pump Pressure

Fuel
Leakage

Leaky
Fuel Pump Diaphragm Loose Engine Mounting Causing High Fuel Level in Carburetor

Low
Compression
Valves Sticking
Spark
Plugs Bad

Spark
Plug Cables Bad
Weak
Coil
or Condenser Improper Valve Tappet Clearance

Carburetor
Air Cleaner Dirty
High Oil Level in Air Cleaner Dragging Brakes

Front
Wheels Out of Alignment

Tires
Improperly Inflated Inaccurate Odometer

Faulty
Fuel Tank Cap
Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve

LACK
OF POWER
Low
Compression Ignition System (Timing Late)
Improper Functioning Carburetor
or Fuel Pump

Fuel
Lines
Clogged

Air
Cleaner Restricted Engine Temperature High Improper Tappet Clearance
Sticking Valves
Valve Timing Late

Leaky
Gaskets
Muffler
Clogged

Bent Exhaust Pipe Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve —
Dauntless V-6 Engine

LOW
COMPRESSION
Leaky
Valves Poor Piston Ring Seal Sticking Valves
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
Cylinder
Scored or Worn
Tappet Clearance Incorrect Piston Clearance too Large

Leaky
Cylinder Head Gasket

BURNED
VALVES AND SEATS Sticking Valves or too Loose in Guides
Improper Timing
Excessive Carbon Around Valve Head and Seat Overheating
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
Valve Tappet Sticking
Valve Tappet Clearance Incorrect
Clogged
Exhaust System

Defective
Valve
Lifter
— Hydraulic
VALVES
STICKING
Warped Valve Improper Tappet Clearance Carbonized or Scored Valve
Stems

Insufficient Clearance Valve Stem to Guide
Weak or Broken Valve Spring Valve Spring Cocked Contaminated Oil

OVERHEATING
Inoperative Cooling System
Theromstat Inoperative Improper Ignition Timing
Improper Valve Timing
Excessive Carbon Accumulation
Fan
Belt too Loose

Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe
Oil
System Failure Scored or Leaky Piston Rings
Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve — Dauntless V-6 Engine

POPPING-SPITTING-DETONATION
Improper Ignition Improper Carburetion
Excessive Carbon
Deposit
in
Combustion Chambers
Poor Valve Seating Sticking Valves
Broken Valve Spring Tappets Adjusted too Close
Spark
Plug Electrodes Burned
Water or Dirt in Fuel
Clogged
Lines Improper Valve Timing

Clogged
Fuel Filter Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve —
Dauntless V-6 Engine

EXCESSIVE
OIL CONSUMPTION Piston Rings Stuck in Grooves, Worn or Broken Piston Rings Improperly Fitted or Weak Piston Ring Oil Return
Holes
Clogged

Excessive Clearance, Main and
Connecting Rod Bearings

Oil
Leaks at Gaskets or Oil Seals
Excessive Clearance, Valve Stem
to Valve Guide (Intake)

Cylinder
Bores Scored, Out-of-
Round or Tapered
Too Much Clearance, Piston to Cylinder Bore
Misaligned Connecting Rods
High Road
Speeds
or Temperature
Crankcase
Ventilator Not Operating

BEARING
FAILURE
Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Out-of-Round

Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Rough

Lack
of Oil
Oil
Leakage

Dirty
Oil

Low
Oil Pressure or Oil Pump Failure

Drilled
Passages
in Crankcase or Crankshaft
Clogged

Oil
Screen Dirty
Connecting Rod Bent 34

C-30.
TUNE-UP
SPECIFICATIONS

ITEM

BATTERY:
Voltage
Terminal
Ground Specific Gravity:
Fully
Charged Recharge at

Load
Test, minimum:
12-Volt Battery. .

SPARK PLUGS:

Make and Model

Gap

Tightening Torque

COMPRESSION
PRESSURE CRANKING:

VALVES:
Tappet Clearance Cold:
Intake
Exhaust:
Timing (Intake Opens)

DISTRIBUTOR
Model
Dwell
Angle
Point Gap
Arm
Spring Tension

Firing
Order and Direction ....

IGNITION TIMING.
Mark
Location

ENGINE
IDLE
SPEED: W/O
Exhaust Emission Control With Exhaust Emission Control
F4
W/Dist. IAY-4401A

F4
W/Dist. IAY-4401B

FIRING
ORDER HURRICANE
F4

DAUNTLESS
V-6
12 Volts

Negative

1.260 1.225
10 Volts

AC
45 or Champion J-8 .030"
[0,762
mm.]
25 to 33
lb-ft.
[3,5 a 4,6
kg-m.]

120 to 130 psi. [8,4 a 9,2
kg-cm2]

.018"
[0,460
mm.] .016"
[0,406
mm.]
9°
BTC

PRESTOLITE

IAY-4012
IAY-4401A

IAY-4401
IAY-4401B

42°

.020"
[0,508
mm.]
17 to 20 oz.
[0,482
@
0,567
gr.]

1-3-4-2
Counterclockwise

5° BTC
0° TDC
Vibration Damper or Timing Cover
600 rpm.

1-3-4-2
650/700
rpm.

700/750
rpm. 12 Volts

Negative

1.260 1.225
10 Volts

AC
44S or Champion UJ12Y .035"
[0,889
mm.]
25 to 35
lb-ft.
[3,5 a 4,8
kg-m.]

Zero (Hydraulic Lifters)
Zero (Hydraulic Lifters)
DELCO-REMY

1110376
PRESTOLITE

IAT-4501 IAT-4502A
IAT-4502
30°

19 to 23 oz.

[0,538
@
0,652
gr.'

5°
BTC
29°
± 3°
.016"
[0,401
mm.] 17 to 22 oz.
[0,482

1-6-5-4-3-2-
Clockwise
5°
BTC
Timing Cover

650/700
rpm.
650/700
rpm.

1-6-5-4-3-2
%
0,624
gr.]

0°
TDC
NOTE:
FOR
VEHICLES
EQUIPPED WITH EXHAUST
EMISSION
CONTROL, ALSO
REFER
TO
SECTION
Fl (F4-134
ENGINE)
AND
SECTION
F2
(V6-225
ENGINE).
Co O

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

D
insulator
mountings attached to the frame side

rail
brackets. The
rear
of the engine-transmission
assembly is supported by a rubber insulator
mounting under the
rear
of the transmission on
the frame center cross member.
This
cross member
is bolted to the frame side
rails
so that it can be
dropped when removing the transmission or engine-

transmission
assembly. The rubber insulators allow
free side and vertical oscillation to effectively

neutralize
engine
vibration at the source.

The
rubber
insulator mountings should be inspected
for separation and deterioration by jacking the
power plant away from the frame, near the sup­
ports. Vibration cannot be effectively absorbed by
separated or worn insulators. They should be re­ placed if faulty.

D-4.
Engine
Ground
Strap

To
be sure of an
effective
ground for the electrical

circuits,
a ground strap bridges the right front

engine
support to the chassis. The connections of this strap must be kept clean and tight for proper
operation of the electrical system.

D-5. ENGINE REMOVAL

Should
the
engine
require overhauling, it is neces­

sary
to remove it from the vehicle. The following procedure covers removal of the
engine
only.

The
engine, transmission and transfer case may be
removed as a unit by removing (in addition to the following procedure) the radiator guard and the
access plates in the floor pan.

a.
Drain
the cooling system by opening the
drain
cocks at the
bottom
of the radiator and lower right
side of the cylinder block.

b.
Disconnect the battery at the positive terminal
to avoid the possibility of short
circuit.

c. Remove the air cleaner horn from the carburetor
and
disconnect the breather
hose
at the oil filler
pipe.

d.
Disconnect the carburetor choke and throttle controls by loosening the clamp
bolts
and set
screws.

e. Disconnect the fuel-tank-to-fuel-pump line at the fuel pump by unscrewing the connecting nut.
f- Plug the fuel line to prevent fuel leakage.
g. Remove the radiator and radiator grille support

rods.

h. Remove the upper and lower radiator
hoses
by
loosening the
hose
clamps and slipping the clamps
back
on the
hose.
If so equipped, remove the heater

hoses
(one to the water pump, one to the
rear
of
the cylinder head) in the same manner.

i.
Remove the four
bolts
from the fan hub and re­

move
the fan hub and fan blades.

j.
Remove the four radiator attaching screws. Re­
move
the radiator and shroud as one unit, k. Remove the starting motor cables. Remove the

starting
motor.

I.
Disconnect the wires from the alternator or
generator. Disconnect the ignition
primary
wire
at the ignition coil.
NOTE:
ON
ENGINES EQUIPPED WITH EX­

HAUST
EMISSION CONTROL, REMOVE THE
AIR
PUMP,
AIR
DISTRIBUTION
MANI­
FOLD,
AND
ANTI-BACKFIRE (DIVERTER)

VALVE.
SEE SECTION
Fl
FOR PROCEDURE.
m.
Disconnect the oil pressure and temperature
sending unit wires at the units.

n.
Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust
manifold by removing the stud nuts.

o.
Disconnect the
spark
plug cables at the plugs

and
remove the cable bracket from the rocker arm cover stud.

p.
Remove the rocker arm cover by removing the
attaching stud nuts.

q.
Attach a lifting bracket to the
engine
using
existing head bolt locations. Be sure the
bolts
selected
will
hold the
engine
with the weight

balanced.
Attach lifting bracket to a boom hoist,

or
other lifting device, and take up all slack,
r.
Remove the two nuts and
bolts
from each front

engine
support. Disconnect the
engine
ground strap.
Remove the
engine
supports.
Lower
the
engine
slightly to permit access to the two top
bolts
on
the flywheel housing.
s. Remove the
bolts
which attach the flywheel
housing to the engine.

t.
Pull
the
engine
forward, or
roll
the vehicle back­

wards,
until the clutch clears the flywheel housing.

Lift
the
engine
from the vehicle.

D-6. ENGINE DISASSEMBLY

Engine
disassembly is presented in the sequence to be followed when the
engine
is to be completely
overhauled after removal from the vehicle. Some
of the operations of the procedure are also ap­
plicable
separately with the
engine
in the vehicle,

provided
that wherever necessary the part of the

engine
to be worked on is first made accessible by
removal
of
engine
accessories or other parts.

When
the disassembly operations are performed

with
the
engine
out of the vehicle, it is assumed,
in
this procedure, that all of the accessories have been removed
prior
to starting the disassembly

and
the oil has been drained.
In
addition to the instructions covering operations
for disassembling the
engine
out of the vehicle,

special
instructions are given to cover different
operations required when disassembly is
done
with the
engine
installed.

During
disassembly operations, the
engine
should
be mounted in a suitable
engine
repair
stand. Where

practicable,
modify or adapt an existing repair

stand
as necessary to accommodate the engine. If

an
engine
repair stand is not used, take care to

perform
disassembly operations in a manner that

will
protect personnel against an accident and the
engine
and its parts against damage.

NOTE:
If the
engine
is being disassembled because
of possible valve failure, check the valve tappet
clearance
before disassembly. Improper valve

clearance
could be the possible cause of valve

failure,
indicating a need for more frequent valve
checks and adjustments. 41

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
D-7.
Remove Water Pump
Remove the
bolts
and lockwashers that attach the
water pump to the cylinder block. Remove the water pump.

D-8.
Remove
Exhaust
Manifold
Remove the five nuts from the manifold studs.

Pull
the manifold off the mounting studs. Remove the center and two end gaskets from the cylinder
block. See Section Fl for exhaust emission con­ trolled engines.

D-9.
Remove Oil
Filler
Tube

Loop
a piece of wire several times around the tube
below the top and make a
loop
through which a
pry
bar may be used to pry over the top of the

engine
water
outlet
fitting.
Pull
on the tube, tapping it just above where it enters the crankcase.

D-10.
Remove Water Outlet Fitting
Remove the nuts and lockwashers that attach the
water
outlet
fitting to the cylinder head.
Lift
the
outlet
fitting from the cylinder head.

D-11.
Remove Thermostat

With
the water
outlet
fitting removed, the thermo­
stat can be lifted from the water
outlet
elbow on the cylinder head.

D-12.
Remove
Crankshaft
Pulley
Remove the crankshaft nut.
Install
a puller and
pull

the pulley from the crankshaft.

D-13.
Remove Distributor

a.
Remove
spark
plug cables from the distributor
cap,
noting the order in which they are assembled to ensure correct reassembly. No. 1
spark
plug

terminal
is in the 5 o'clock position. Starting with this tower the cables are installed in a counter­clockwise direction in
1-3-4-2
firing order.

b.
Remove the
primary
lead from the terminal

post
at the side of the distributor.
c. Remove the screw holding the distributor to the crankcase and lift the assembly from the engine.
D-14. Remove Oil Pump

The
oil pump is located externally on the left side
of the engine. If only the oil pump is being removed

with
the
engine
in the vehicle, set No. 1 piston at
TDC
for reference for reinstalling the oil pump
without greatly disturbing the ignition timing.
First
remove the distributor cover and
note
the
position of the distributor rotor.
If
the distributor is already removed, sight through
the distributor
hole
before removing the oil pump.
The
slot should be near vertical. Remove the capscrews and lockwashers attaching the oil pump
to the cylinder block.
Carefully
slide the oil pump

and
its drive shaft out of the cylinder block.

D-1S.
Remove
Crankcase
Ventilation Valve

To
remove the crankcase ventilation valve from
the elbow fitting screwed into the inlet manifold of the cylinder head, first remove the
hose
and
clamp from the valve (Fig. D-32), then using a
wrench
carefully unscrew the valve from the
elbow.

D-l6.
Remove Rooker Arm Assemblies

The
rocker arm cover was previously removed as

a
step
of the
engine
removal (Par. D-5).
Remove the nuts from the rocker arm shaft support
studs, and lift the rocker arm assembly off the studs.
Lift
the intake valve push rods out of the
cylinder
block.

D-17.
Remove
Cylinder
Head

a.
Removal.
Disconnect the oil line from the flared tube con­
nector and remove the rocker arm attaching stud nuts, and rocker arm shaft assembly if not pre­
viously removed. Two end head
bolts
cannot be removed until the rocker arm shaft is removed.
Remove the cylinder head bolts.
There
is one
cylinder
head bolt located below the carburetor
mounting, inside the intake manifold, that must
not be overlooked.

Carefully
lift the cylinder head off the block.
Remove the valve push rods and the valve lifters.
FIG.
D-3—REMOVING
RIDGE
WITH
REAMER

Remove and discard the cylinder head gasket,
b. Disassembly.
Disassemble the parts of the cylinder head as
follows:
With
a spring compressor tool remove the
two-piece
locks recessed in the valve spring re­

tainers.
Pull
the
O-ring,
valve spring, and valve out
of the cylinder head. Identify the valves for return to the same
guides
from which they are removed.
42

'Jeep5
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
Driver
W-238 is equipped
with
an
adapter
ring

which
correctly positions the guides. See Fig. D-23. Start a new exhaust valve guide, blunt (nontapered)
end
first,
into
the valve guide bore in the top of the cylinder block. When properly positioned, the
top end of the guide is exactly
1
"
[25,4 mm.] below
the level of the top of the block as shown in Fig.
D-24.
Start
a new intake valve guide, tapered end
first, into position from the
bottom
of the cylinder

head.
When properly positioned, the end of the
guide is just flush with the end of the valve guide
bore in the cylinder head as shown in Fig. D-24.

Run
a reamer (Tool
C-3 8)
through the new
guides

after they have been correctly positioned.

D-62. Tappets
and
Cover

The
valve tappets are lubricated through oil troughs cast in the crankcase. The troughs are
filled by oil sprayed from the connecting rod ends

and
passages are drilled through the tappet
guides
to
carry
the oil to the tappets. A
groove
around the center of the tappet shank carries the oil up and down the guide.

Check
the threads and fit of the exhaust valve ad­

justing
screw in the exhaust valve tappets. The fit of a screw should be such that a wrench is required to
turn
it into or out of the tappet as
these
are of
the self-locking type. Replace the worn part, either
the screw or the tappet, or both, if there is
loose­

ness
between
the parts.
D-63.
Crankshaft Rear Bearing Seal

Oil
leakage through the
rear
main bearing is pre­ vented by a metal supported neoprene lip type

seal
which can readily be installed without remov­
ing the crankshaft.

Should
trouble be experienced with oil leaking

from
the
rear
main bearing there are several points

which
should be checked.

a.
Be sure that the identifying paint daub on the
bearing
cap is the same as that appearing on the
center bearing web.

b.
The bearing to crankshaft clearance must not
exceed .0029"
[0,0736
mm.].

c.
Place sealer on the faces of the
rear
bearing cap

from
the
rear
oil
groove
to the oil seal grooves.

d-
Be sure the rubber oil seals extend about 34" [6 mm.] below the
bottom
face of the cap.

e.
Be sure the oil pan gasket is not leaking.
f.
Check
to be sure the oil leak is not at the cam­
shaft
rear
bearing expansion plug or from the
crankcase.

D-64.
Floating Oil
Intake •
Refer to Fig. D-25 and D-26.

The
floating oil intake is attached to the
bottom

of the crankcase with two screws. The float and
screen causes it to ride, raise and lower with the
amount of oil in the pan.
This
prevents water or
dirt,
which
may have accumulated in the
bottom

of the oil pan, from circulating through the
engine

because the oil is drawn horizontally from the top

surface.
Whenever removed, the float, screen, and
tube should be cleaned thoroughly to remove any
accumulation
of
dirt.
Also clean the oil pan.

Fluctuating
oil pressure can usually be traced to

an
air leak
between
the oil float support and the

crankcase.

Be
sure the float support flange is flat.
Clean
both
the flange and the crankcase surfaces thoroughly
before installing a new gasket. Be sure the retaining
screws are tight.
D-65. Oil
Pump

The
oil pump is located externally on the left side
of the engine. In operation oil is drawn from the

crankcase
through the floating oil intake then passes through a drilled passage in the crankcase
to the pump from which it is forced through

drilled
passages to the crankshaft and camshaft
bearings. When it is necessary to remove an oil
pump,
first remove the distributor cover and
note
the position of the distributor rotor so that the pump may be reinstalled without disturbing the
ignition timing. To install the pump without dis­

turbing
the timing, the pump gear must be cor­

rectly
meshed with the camshaft driving gear to
allow
engagement
of the key on the distributor shaft with the pump shaft slot, without changing the position of the distributor rotor. Distributor
can
be installed only in one position as the slot and

driving
key are machined off-center.

The
oil pump consists of an inner and outer rotor

within
the pump body. An oil relief valve is mounted in the pump body which controls the oil

pressure.
To disassemble the pump, Fig. D-27, first remove the gear which is retained by straight

pin.
It
will
be necessary to file off one end of the
pin
before driving it out with a small drift. By re­
moving the cover the outer rotor and the inner

rotor
and shaft may be removed through the cover opening.
Failure
of the pump to operate at

full
efficiency may usually be traced to excessive
end float of the rotors or excessive clearance be­ tween the rotors. The clearance
between
the outer

rotor
and the pump body should also be checked.
Match
the rotors
together
with one
lobe
of the inner

rotor
pushed as far as possible into the notch of the outer rotor. Measure the clearance
between
the

lobes
of the rotors as shown in
Fig.
D-28.
This
clear­ ance should be .010"
[0,254
mm.] or less.
If
more, replace both rotors. Measure the clearance

between
the outer rotor and the pump body as
shown in Fig. D-29. Should this clearance exceed .012" [0,305 mm.] the fault is probably in the
pump body and it should be replaced. End float
of the rotors is controlled by the thickness of the cover gasket which is made of special material that

can
be only slightly compressed. Never use other

than
a standard factory gasket.
Check
the cover
to be sure the inner surface is not rough or scored

and
that it is flat within .001" [0,025 mm.]
tested

with
feeler
gauges,
Fig. D-30. Measure thickness of
the rotors which must be within .001" [0,025 mm.]
of each other. Assemble the rotors in the pump body and install the cover without the gasket.
When
the cover screws are tightened to normal
tension, there should be interference
between
the
rotors and the cover making it impossible to
turn
the pump shaft by hand. Remove the cover and re- 57

D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
D-101.
Install
Manifold

If
manifold studs were removed for replacement,
apply sealer on the stud threads
before
installing
a
new stud.
See Section Fl for exhaust emission controlled

engines.
Make
certain that no foreign objects are inside the manifold and that all
passages
are clear. Place a
new set of manifold
gaskets
in position on the side
of the cylinder block.
Then,
carefully slide the manifold
onto
the studs and against the cylinder block being careful not to damage the gaskets.
Torque
all manifold attaching nuts evenly 29 to
35 lb-ft. [4,0 a 4,8 kg-m.].
D-102.
Install
Oil
Filler
Tube

When
installing the oil filler tube, be sure that the
beveled lower end is away from the crankshaft.
Place a
piece
of
hard
wood
over the top of the
tube

to prevent damage to the cap gasket seat.
D-103.
Install
Water Pump

Make
certain that the mating surfaces of the water pump and the cylinder block are clean and smooth.
Install
the gasket on the
flange
of the pump and

install
the pump in position on the cylinder block.
Torque
the water pump attaching
bolts
alternately

and
evenly 12 to 17 lb-ft. [1,7 a 2,3 kg-m.].
D-104.
Install
Water Outlet Fitting

Install
the thermostat and the water
outlet
fitting.
Torque
the water
outlet
fitting attaching
bolts
20
to 25 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,4 kg-m.].
FIG.
D-42—INSTALLING HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
IN
VEHICLE

1—
Lifting
Sling
2— Hoist
Cable

3—
Hurricane
F4 Engine
4— Dowel Bolt
5—
Flywheel
Housing
D-105.
ENGINE INSTALLATION
a.
Install
lifting sling to
engine
and using suitable hoist raise the
engine
from its blocking or stand

and
then slowly lower it
into
the
engine
compart­ment of the vehicle.

Note:
When installing the
Hurricane
F4 Engine,
two % x 4 inch
guide
bolts
or
dowels
should be
used to properly
guide
and align the
engine
to the
flywheel housing (See Fig. D-42).
b. Slightly tilt the
engine
downward and at the
same time slide the
engine
rearward
while lining up the transmission main gear shaft with the clutch
throw-out bearing and disc spline.

Note
:The
engine
crankshaft may have to be turned
slightly to align the transmission main gear shaft
with the clutch disc spline.
c. Remove the
guide
bolts
or
dowels
and secure
the
engine
to the housing.

d.
Secure the front
engine
mounts to the frame brackets and
bolt
ground cable to
engine.

e. Remove lifting sling from
engine.

f. Connect exhaust pipe to
engine
manifold flange.
g. Connect throttle and choke cables to carburetor.
h.
Install
fan to water pump pulley.
i.
Connect fuel pump line to main fuel line,

j.
Replace starting motor assembly. k. Connect
engine
wiring harness connectors at
front of cowl.

I.
Connect wires to starting motor assembly, water
temperature and oil pressure sending units and alternator.

NOTE:
ON
ENGINES EQUIPPED WITH EX­

HAUST
EMISSION CONTROL,
REPLACE
THE
AIR
PUMP,
AIR
DISTRIBUTOR
MANI­

FOLD,
AND
ANTI-BACKFIRE (DIVERTER)
VALVE.
SEE
SECTION
Fl.
m. Replace radiator and radiator grille support
rods and connect coolant
hoses
to
engine.

Note:
Replace heater
hoses
if vehicle is equipped
with hot water heater.

n. Fill
radiator with coolant and
engine
with oil
(see
Lubrication
Chart).

o.
Install
air cleaner and connect carburetor air
hose.

p. Connect battery cables and start
engine,

q.
Install
hood
and road
test
vehicle.
D-103.
FINAL
IN-VEHICLE
ADJUSTMENTS
a.
Clean
battery terminals and check battery. b.
Check
ignition terminals and check battery.
c. Service carburetor air cleaner.

d.
Service positive crankcase ventilation valve.
e.
Check
fuel lines. f. Gap and install new
spark
plugs.
g.
Check
distributor
points
and capacitor; replace
if
necessary. 68

'Jeep9
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

h.
Check
ignition (distributor) timing; reset if
necessary.

i.
Check
carburetor
adjustments; reset if necessary,

j.
With
engine
fully warmed up, tighten cylinder
head and manifold
bolts
and nuts to specified
torque.
Check
cylinder head gaskets and
bolts
for
air
or coolant leaks.

Note:
Tightness of cylinder head
bolts
should be
checked and corrected after 500 to 600 miles [800

a
960 km.] of normal operation.

k.
Check
fan belt tension; adjust if necessary.

I.
Check
for and correct any oil leak, fuel leak or
coolant leak.
D-107.
VALVE
ADJUSTMENT

Proper
valve adjustment is important to prevent
burning
of valves and poor
engine
performance.

This
adjustment consists of obtaining a specified

lash
in the valve mechanism. The exhaust valve
tappets and the intake valve rocker arms should be adjusted to the proper clearance with the
engine

cold (at room temperature). Valve clearance can
be properly adjusted only when the tappet is on the
heel or low portion of the cam.
INTAKE

OPENS

9°
BTC?

FIG.
D-43-
10270

-VALVE
TIMING
D-108. Valve Adjustment Procedure

The
exhaust valve tappets are adjusted by turning
the adjusting screw in or out of the tappet as neces­
sary
to obtain the proper clearance. Where special
wrenches can be obtained, they should be used to facilitate the adjustment. The proper clearance is .016" [0,406 mm.]
between
the end of the adjusting
screw and the
bottom
of the exhaust valve.

Crank
the
engine
over to
close
a valve and check
the clearance with a feeler
gauge.
To adjust, hold
the tappet with one wrench and
turn
the adjusting

screw,
with the other.
Check
and adjust each of
the tappets in proper sequence.

Adjust
each intake valve by adjusting the rocker
arm
screw at the push rod to obtain .018" [0,457 mm.] clearance
between
the rocker arm and the
valve stem with tappet on the heel of the cam.
D-109.
Check
Valve
Timing

To
check the valve timing, carefully set the intake
valve rocker arm adjustment for No. 1 cylinder to .026"
[0,6604
mm.]
between
the rocker arm and the
valve stem. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until
the piston in No. 1 cylinder is ready for the intake stroke. The intake valve
opens
9° before top center
(BTC).
Note
the distance
between
the
"TC"
and
"5°"
marks on the indicator on the timing gear
cover and estimate the 9° before top center position.
See
Fig.
D-43.
With
the crankshaft in this position, timing is correct if the rocker arm is just tight
against the intake valve stem. Do not overlook resetting the rocker arm adjustment to the correct

running
clearance.
D-110. Positive
Crankcase
Ventilation

Be
sure there are no air leaks at the tube connec­
tions
between
the air cleaner and the oil filler tube,

and
that the oil filler tube cap gasket is in
good

condition. Always keep the cap locked securely in
place. When tuning the
engine
or grinding valves, remove the control valve and clean it thoroughly.
If
the valve is blocked with carbon, the ventilating
system
will
not operate and, should the valve

fail
to seat, it
will
be impossible to make the
engine

idle satisfactorily. Refer to Par. C-6 for servicing.
D-111. Oil
Filter

The
engine
is equipped with a throw-away type

oil
filter.
This
oil filter must be serviced periodi­
cally
as outlined in the
Lubrication
Section. 69