1953 JEEP DJ heating

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
colder plug may be desirable. However, under- or
over-heating is usually caused by factors other than the type of
spark
plugs and the cause should be determined before changing plugs. The design of the
engine
calls for plugs equivalent to Champion

J-8
for F4
engines
and
A.C.
44S or
UJ12Y
Champ­

ion for the V6 engines, (as installed in production)
though any factor that consistently affects
engine
operating temperature may cause this requirement
to change. Overheating may be caused by in­ sufficient tightening of the plug in the head, which interferes with the flow of heat away from the firing

tip.
If this is the case, the plug gasket
will
show very
little flattening. Over-tightening, in
turn,
will
pro­ duce too easy a heat flow path and result in cold
plug operation.
This
will
be evident by excessive
flattening
and
deformation of the gasket.
Prevailing
temperatures, condition of the cooling system, and

air-fuel
mixture can affect the
engine
operating temperature and should be taken into consideration.
H-34.
GENERATOR
— F4
ENGINE

The
generator is an air-cooled, two-brush unit

which
cannot be adjusted to increase or decrease output. For replacement,
voltage
regulator and generator must be matched for
voltage
and capa­

city,
polarity, and common source of manufacture.
Otherwise,
either a
loss
of ampere capacity or a

burned
out generator
will
result. Generators for

these
vehicles are 12-volt. Par. H-l explains the 12-volt system. Refer to the specifications at the
end of this section for information on correct generator rating for a specific model series.
The
circuit
breaker,
voltage
regulator, and current-

limiting
regulator are built into one combination

unit.
Because the regulator and battery are part
of the generator
circuit,
the output of the generator
depends upon the
state
of charge and temperature
of the battery.
With
a discharged battery, the
output
will
be high, decreasing proportionally as the battery
becomes
charged. For service informa­
tion covering current regulator see Par. H-41.

H-36.
Generator
Maintenance

A
periodic inspection should be made of the charg­
ing
circuit,
Fig. H-l9. The interval
between
these
checks
will
vary
depending upon type of service.
Dust,
dirt
and high speed operation are factors 10541

FIG.
H-19—CHARGING
CIRCUIT

1—
Battery
4-—Starter Switch

2—
Voltage
Regulator 5-—Charge Indicator

3—
Generator
which
contribute to increased wear of bearings

and
brushes.

Under
normal conditions a check should be made
each 6000 miles
[9.600
km.].

A
visual inspection should be made of all wiring,
to be sure there are no broken or damaged wires.

Check
all connections to be sure they are tight and

clean.

Should
the commutator be rough or worn the
armature
should be removed and the commutator

turned
and undercut. See Par. H-37.
The
brushes should slide freely in their holders.

Should
they be oil soaked or if they are worn to

less
than one-half their original length they should
be replaced. When new brushes are installed they should be sanded to provide
full
contact with the
commutator. Generators should not be checked for
output until the brushes are seated.

Brush
spring tension is important. High tension causes
rapid
brush and commutator wear while
low tension causes arcing and reduced output.
Test
the tension with a spring scale.
Check
the
specifications section at end of this section for

correct
spring tension for generator in question.
H-36.
Generator Disassembly
•
Refer to Fig. H-20:
Before beginning disassembly of the generator to

correct
electrical system malfunctions proceed with
inspection and
test
procedures as detailed in Par.

H-46
thru
H-62. If it is definitely determined that trouble exists within the generator, which ne­cessitates dismantling, proceed as follows. Remove the two frame screws in the commutator
end plate and remove the end plate assembly. Next
pull
the armature and drive head complete

from
the generator housing. Remove the generator pulley from the armature by removing the nut

and
washer. Do not
lose
the Woodruff key when
the pulley is removed. After this, remove the drive
end head assembly which includes the oil seal and
bearing.
To remove the bearing, remove the three
screws and lockwashers in the grease retainer and remove the retainer and felt washer, after which,
remove the bearing, oil guard and felt washer.
H-37.
Armature

If
the commutator is rough or worn,
turn
it down

in
a lathe. After turning, the mica insulation be­ tween the
segments
should be undercut to a depth of 34* [0,8 mm.].
To
test
the armature for a ground, connect one

prod
of a
test
lamp to the core or shaft (not on

bearing
surface) and touch each commutator
seg­
ment with the other prod. If the lamp lights, the

armature
segment
is grounded and the armature must be replaced.

To
test
for short in armature coils, a growler,

Fig.
H-21, is necessary. Place the armature on the growler and lay a thin steel strip on the armature

core.
The armature is then rotated slowly by hand

and
if a coil is shorted, the steel strip
will
vibrate.

Should
a coil be shorted the armature must be
replaced.

If
precision
test
equipment is available, the cus­

tomary
accurate
tests
can be made in accordance 188

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H

©
© © ® (a
1—
Bolt

2— Cap
Screw

3—
Brush
Assembly
Cover

4—
Brush
Assembly
5—
Locknut

6—
Isolation
Diode 7— Nut
8—
Insulated
Washer
9—
Rear
Housing

10—Slip
Ring
FIG.
H-31—ALTERNATOR

11—
Insulated
Washer 12— Negative Diode Assembly
13—
Positive Diode Assembly
14—
Stator

15—
Rear
Bearing 16—
Rotor
17—
Retaining
Clip

18—
Front
Bearing
19—
Front
Housing
20— Nut 11485
21—
Fan
22—
Pulley

23—
Lock
Washer
24— Nut 25—
Woodruff
Key 26—
Bushing

27—
Insulated
Sleeve
28— Nut sembly straight out until the brushes are clear of

rotor
assembly.
Lift
the brush assembly out of the housing.

b.
Remove the isolation
diode
assembly by re­
moving nuts.

c.
Remove fan, pulley, lock
washer,
nut and spacer.
With
the nut removed, remove pulley using
Puller,

the other parts can then be removed easily from the

rotor
shaft. The spacer
will
not
come
off until the key is removed.

d.
Separate front housing from
rear
housing by
removing
bolts
and nuts.
Then
insert blade of
a
small screwdriver in the stator
slots
between
the
stator and the front housing. Wedge apart the
halves of the alternator.

Caution:
Take
care not to insert the screwdriver
blade deeper than J/f6" [0,16 cm.] below a stator.

Otherwise
damage to the stator windings may

result.
It may be necessary to apply pressure at

several
points around the stator to extract rotor

and
front housing as an assembly. Be careful not
to
burr
the stator core as this would make reas­ sembly difficult.

e.
Remove the two rectifying
diode
heat sink as­semblies and the stator as a complete unit from
the
rear
housing by removing nuts and locknuts.
Note
that the positive
diode
assembly is insulated

from
the alternator housing by insulated washers

and
insulated sleeves.
f. The
diode
and stator assemblies may now be
tested
as outlined in
Par.
H-83.
For
additional
test­
ing
(Pars.
H-84 and H-85) or to replace a
diode
heat
sink
assembly, unsolder the three soldered con­
nections at the
diodes
to separate heat sink from stator.

Caution:
When unsoldering the stator wires from
the rectifier
diode
assembly, provide a heat sink
to the
diode
terminal using a
pair
of long-nosed
pliers
to dissipate the heat away from the diodes.

g.
To remove the rotor assembly from the front
housing remove the woodruff key and split spring

washer
(bearing retainer).
FIG.
H-32—REMOVING
FRONT
BEARING

1—Front
Bearing Remover C-4068
h.
With
the woodruff key removed and the split

spring
washer
loose,
the rotor may be removed
from
the front housing by tapping the rotor shaft
on a
soft
wood surface.

i.
Remove the front and
rear
bearings from the

rotor
shaft by using Bearing Remover C-4068 for
the front bearing, as shown in
Fig.
H-32, and
Bear­
ing Remover C-3936 for the
rear
bearing, as shown

in Fig.
H-33.

H-81.
General
Inspection

a.
All parts should be wiped clean and visually inspected for wear, distortion, and signs of over­
heating or mechanical interference.

b.
Check
the bearings for roughness or excessive

clearance.
They should be replaced if found defective.

Note:
New bearings are prelubricated. Additional

lubrication
is not required. 199

N

REAR
AXLE

14153

FIG.
N-8—REMOVING FLANGED
AXLE
SHAFT

1—
Flange
Adapter Tool W-343

2—
Tool
C-637

3—
Axle
Flange nuts attaching backing plate and retainer to axle
tube flange.
e. Attach axle shaft adapter tool W-343 and slide

hammer
handle C-637 to axle shaft flange and re­
move
axle shaft, as shown in Fig. N-8.

Caution:
Should a bearing disintegrate on the
axle shaft because of inadequate lubrication, the axle shaft and housing assembly must be carefully inspected for possible damage before new parts are

installed.

If
the bearing
cone
(inner race) is seized (cold
welded)
onto
the axle shaft due to excessive over­ heating, the axle shaft must be discarded and a new
axle shaft and bearing assembly installed.

Note:
Make certain the bearing cup has been
removed from the axle housing.
f. Remove axle shaft oil seal from axle housing tube using tool C-637.
g. Wipe axle housing tube seal bore clean and in­
stall
a new oil seal using driver tool W-186, as shown in Fig. N-l7.
N-4.
UNIT BEARING

Basically,
there are five parts to a Unit Bearing assembly: the cup, or outer race, the cup
ring,

the cone, or inner race, the tapered rollers which

roll
freely
between
the cup and cone, and the
cage

which
serves as a retainer to maintain the proper spacing
between
the tapered rollers grouped around
the cone.

When
the bearing is manufactured, the cup and
rib
ring are bonded
together
with an adhesive to
facilitate bearing handling and installation. Since the cup and rib ring are clamped
together
in the axle housing, there is no need for a permanent
bond. When the bearing is serviced the cup
will

usually
be separated from the rib
ring.

The
bearing is held on the shaft by the press fit of the
cone
plus the press fit of the retainer
ring.

The
cup and rib ring are clamped
together
in the axle housing through the outboard seal by the re­

tainer
plate. The outboard seal wipes on the rotat­ ing axle shaft and at the same time functions as a
static seal to prevent lubricant from escaping be­
tween the housing and the seal outside diameter.
It's
important to
note
that the seal serves also as

a
"spacer" or "filler" in the clamp-up of the bearing

in
the axle housing.

Note:
All Unit Bearings are manufactured with

built-in
adjustment for axle shaft end play. No adjustment shims are necessary when installing a
flange type axle shaft.

N-5.
Servicing Unit Bearing

The
Unit
Bearing
assembly should be serviced each
12,000
miles [
19,200
km.] with bearing cleaning,
inspection and relubrication. The Unit Bearing re­
quires
little attention while in service if the bear­
ings have been properly installed and are ade­
quately lubricated.
•
Cleaning and Inspection

a.
The Unit Bearing assembly should not be re­ moved from the axle shaft unless the outer seal is defective, the retainer plate is distorted or damaged,

or
the Unit Bearing is defective.

Should
it be necessary to remove the Unit Bearing

from
the axle shaft for any of
these
reasons, refer
to Par. N-7 for proper Unit Bearing removal.

b.
Clean
bearing cup with solvent and inspect cup
for any possible wear, nicks or damage.

c.
The bearing assembly can be cleaned in place
on the axle shaft. Use cleaning solvent and a stiff

bristle
brush to
loosen
the old grease. To assure
removal
of old grease and any contamination that
might be present, use compressed air. Air should be directed at the bearing assembly so that it
goes

through the bearing from one end of the rollers to the other. It is important not to "spin dry" the

bearing
with compressed
air.
Spinning the dry bear­ing may score the raceways and rollers due to
lack

of lubricant.

d.
Use cleaning solvent to clean out the bearing

and
oil seal bore in the housing. Wipe the area
clean
making sure it is free from old grease or other
contamination that might be present.
FIG.
N-9—LUBRICATING BEARING

290

o
STEERING SYSTEM
FIG.
0-3—FRONT
WHEEL
TOE-IN
1—
Toe-in
Angle

2—
Vertical
Line
In
the absence of a wheel aligning fixture, toe-in

may
be set by measuring
between
the front wheels
at the
edge
of the rim, at the flange or at the tire
tread
center. When making this adjustment the
wheels must be in a straight ahead position.
It
is highly important that toe-in be checked regu­

larly
and if found to be out of adjustment, correc­ tion should be made immediately.

The
correct toe-in of
these
models is found in the
specifications at the end of this section.
0-8. Toe-in Adjustment
The
toe-in may be adjusted with a line or straight

edge
as the vehicle tread is the same in front and
rear.
To set the adjustment both tie rods must be
adjusted
as outlined below:
Set the tie rod end of the steering bell-crank at
right
angles with the front axle. Place a straight

edge
or line against the left
rear
wheel and left front wheel to determine if the wheel is in a straight

ahead
position. If the front wheel tire
does
not touch the straight
edge
at both the front and
rear,

it
will
be necessary to adjust the left tie rod by loosening the clamps on each end and turning the
rod
until the tire touches the straight
edge.

Check
the right hand side in the same manner, ad­

justing
the tie rod if necessary, making sure that the bell-crank remains at right angles to the axle.

When
it is determined that the front wheels are in the straight ahead position, set the toe-in by short­
ening each tie rod approximately one-half
turn.

0-9.
Front
Wheel
Camber
The
purpose of camber Fig. 0-4, is to more nearly
place the weight of the vehicle over the tire con­ tact on the road to facilitate
ease
of steering.

The
result of excessive camber is irregular wear of
tires on outside shoulders and is usually caused by
bent axle parts.

The
result of negative or reverse camber, if ex­
cessive,
will
be
hard
steering and possibly a wan­

dering
condition.
Tires
will
also wear on inside shoulders. Negative camber is usually caused by
excessive wear or
looseness
of front wheel bearings, axle parts or the result of a sagging axle.

Unequal
camber may cause any or a combination
of the following conditions: unstable steering, wan- 11894-

FIG.
0-4—WHEEL CAMBER

1—Vertical
Line
2—Camber Angle
dering,
kick-back or road shock, shimmy or exces­
sive tire wear. The cause of unequal camber is usu­
ally
a bent steering knuckle or axle end.
Correct
wheel camber is set in the axle at the time
of manufacture and cannot be altered by any ad­
justment. It is important that the camber be the same on both front wheels. Heating of any of
these
parts
to facilitate straightening usually destroys
the heat treatment given them at the factory.
Cold
bending may cause a fracture of the steel and is also
unsafe. Replacement with new parts is recom­ mended rather than any straightening of damaged

parts.

O-10.
Axle
Caster Caster
angle is established in the axle design by
tilting the top of the kingpin toward the
rear
and
the
bottom
of the kingpin forward so that an

imaginary
line through the center of the kingpin
would strike the ground at a point ahead of the point of tire contact.
FIG.
0-5—AXLE
CASTER

1—
Vertical
Line

2—
Caster
Angle
316

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

ALPHABETICAL INDEX

SUBJECT PAR.
SUBJECT
PAR.

Abbreviations,
List
U-17 Accelerator Linkage E-70
Air
Cleaner B-25, B-26, B-82, C-21, E-69

Air
Delivery Manifold Fl-4, F2-12
Air
Filter, Pump • F2-3, F2-11

Air
Injection Tubes Fl-5, F2-13
Air
Pump Fl-2, F2-10
Alternator Bearings B-76, H-80
Alternator Brushes H-74, H-75
Alternator Charging System •
•
H-63
Alternator
Diodes
H-69, H-85
Alternator Precautions H-64 Alternator Rotor H-76, H-79
Alternator Tests H-67, H-77 Alternator Specifications H-l 52
Alternator Stator H-84
Anti-Backfire
Valve Fl-6, F2-14
Antifreeze
Chart
• G-22 Antifreeze
Solutions
- G-16
Axle Camber O-l
Axle Caster 0-8

Back-Up
Lights H-135

Ballast
Resistor. H-32 Battery C-3, H-2 Bendix Folo-Thru Drive H-105, H-106
Bleeding Brakes P-7
Body T-l Body Lubrication. B-65 Body Name Plates ' A-7

Brake
Adjustment P-14
Brake
Drums. • .P-17

Brake
Hoses
P-8

Brake
Maintenance . P-5
Brake
Master Cylinder B-40, P-2, P-20

Brake
Service P-6
Brake
Wheel Cylinder • P-21

Camber
Adjustment 0-7
Camshaft D-6, D-51, D-52, D-53, D-81, Dl-26, Dl-33, Dl-55, Dl-80

Carburetor
E-10, E-25

Carburetor
Adjustment C-25, E-14, E-40,
Fl-13,
F2-16
Carburetor
Specifications .Fl-38, F2-34, E-79

Caster
Adjustment 0-8

Charging
System Service. .H-34, H-63

Chassis
Lubrication B-7, B-83

Chassis
Torque Specifications U-14

Clutch
1-4, MO
Clutch
Adjustment 1-3
Clutch
Linkage B-44, 1-3

Clutch
Maintenance .. 1-2
Clutch
Release Bearing B-74, 1-25

Coil
C-20, H-19, H-31 Connecting Rod Bearings D-47, D-48, D-49, Dl-49 Connecting Rod
Crank
Pins D-42
Connecting Rods... .D-20, D-50, D-95, Dl-31, Dl-45, Dl-75
Controls B-59, B-62
Cooling System B-28, G-l Cooling System Filling G-2

Core
Hole Expansion Plugs D-72

Crankcase
Ventilating System B-13, C-6, D-110

Crankshaft
D-26, D-38, D-39, Dl-38, Dl-73
Crankshaft
End Play. D-83, Dl-74

Crankshaft
Main Bearing D-43, D-44, Dl-32, Dl-40, Dl-73

Crankshaft
Oil Seal, Front Dl-21, Dl-85
Crankshaft
Oil Seal, Rear D-63, D-85, Dl-72

Cylinder
Block D-32, Dl-34

Cylinder
Bores D-35, Dl-36

Cylinder
Head D-17, D-73, D-98, Dl-24, Dl-63, Dl-82

Cylinder
Head Torque. C-5
Dash Pot Adjustment C-26, E-44
Differential B-51 thru B-53, N-9 Differential Adjustments N-16, N-18
Differential, Powr-Lok N-20
Differential,
Trac-Lok
N-24
Directional Signal Lights. . H-138
Distributor B-14, B-15, C-10, D-13, Dl-9, H-9, H-20 Distributor Check H-l7, H-28
Distributor Point Dwell C-17 Distributor Resistance Test C-16

Drawbar
.R-6, U-16
Dual
Brake System P-l thru P-26

Electrical
Instruments H-l22

Electrical
Specifications .H-l52

Electrical
System H-l Engine .
..D-l,
Dl-1
Engine Code Number A-6
Engine Compression .
.
C-9 Engine Disassembly . • .D-6, Dl-5 Engine Installation D-105, Dl-102
Engine Lubrication System B-4, B-6 Engine Mountings D-3, Dl-3
Engine Oil B-9
Engine Oil Filter B-10, B-ll,
D-lll,
Dl-13, Dl-93
Engine Oil Pan D-l9, D-66, D-97, Dl-29, Dl-51, Dl-77 Engine Oil Pump. . .D-14, D-65, D-93, Dl-19, Dl-50, Dl-87
Engine Overheating. G-l9 Engine Removal D-5, Dl-4.

Exhaust
Emission Control — F4 Fl-1 thru Fl-30
Exhaust
Emission Control — V6 F2-1 thru F2-36
Exhaust
Manifold, Install F-6

Exhaust
Pipe -
•
F-8

Exhaust
System F-2, F-3

Exhaust
System Maintenance F-4

Fan
Belt C-27, Dl-11, Dl-96, G-18
Floating Oil Intake. D-64, Dl-30, Dl-50, Dl-76 Flywheel D-25, D-67, D-87, Dl-28, Dl-52, Dl-78
Flywheel Housing. D-71, D-88, Dl-27, Dl-54, Dl-79
Flywheel Pilot Bushing D-70, 1-8

Frame
R-l

Frame
Alignment. R-2
Frame
Dimensions R-3
Frame
Straightening R-4

Front
Bumper Weight. • U-9
Front
Axle B-50, M-2

Front
Axle Alignment R-5

Front
Axle Installation • M-12
Front
Axle Maintenance M-3

Front
Axle Shaft Removal M-5

Front
Axle U-Joint B-54, B-55, M-7

Front
Axle Steering Knuckle M-&

Front
Wheel Alignment 0-4

Front
Wheel Bearings B-56, B-57, Q-4
Front
Wheel Toe-in 0-5, 0-6

Front
Wheel Turning Angle 0-9
Fuel
Gauge Float Unit F-76

Fuel
Lines - E-77

Fuel
Pump E-45, E-54, E-60, E-67
Fuel
Pump Check C-23

Fuel
Tank
E-72

G

Gauges, Testing H-l24

General
Specifications A-8
Generator B-16, H-34 thru H-40

Glass
Replacement • T-4
Governor. . .
•.
• U-3
Guides, Valve D"61

H

Hazard
Warning Lights H-139
Head Lamp Aiming H-131, H-132 Head Lamp Replacement H-130
Headlight Dimmer Switch H-l
2
7

Heat Control Valve C-7, F-7 Heated Air System • •
•
F2-2
Heater U-10
Horns.....
....H-137 371