1953 JEEP DJ light

N

REAR
AXLE

FIG.
N-49—REMOVING
PINION
MATE
WASHERS
m.
Thread
forcing screw so that it becomes cen­
tered into the
step
plate. Torque forcing screw
tight.
This
will
move the side gears away from
the pinion mate gears, and relieve the load between
the gears, allowing only the pinion mate gears to
be
loose.

n.
Remove both pinion mate spherical washers. Use

a
shim stock of .030" [0,762 mm.] thickness or an
equivalent tool to push out the spherical washers.

Relieve
the tension of the Belleville spring by
loose­

ning
the forcing screw. Refer to Fig. N-49.

o.
Retighten forcing screw until a very slight move­ ment of the pinion mate gears is detected.
FIG.
N-50—-REMOVING
PINION
MATE
GEARS

p.
Insert the pawl rotating tool between one of
the side gear
teeth
as shown.
Pull
on handle so
the top side gear
will
rotate and also allow the
pinion mate gears to rotate. Also continue pulling
on tool until the gear hits the handle,
q.
Remove pawl from between the gear
teeth
and
repeat the above until the pinion mate gears can
be removed through the large opening of the case.

Note:
When attempting to rotate the side gear, it

will
probably be necessary to adjust the forcing
screw
by very slightly tightening or loosening until the required load is applied to the Belleville springs
to allow the side gear and pinion mate gears to
rotate. Refer to Fig. N-50.

r.
Retain the top side gear and clutch pack in
the case by holding hand on the bottom of the
rotating tool while removing forcing screw. Remove
rotating tool, top side gear, and clutch pack.

FIG.
N-51—-TRAC-LOK
UNIT
DISASSEMBLY

s. Remove the differential case from the axle shaft.

Turn
case with the flange or ring gear side up

and
allow the
step
plate tool side gear and clutch

pack
to be removed from the case. Remove the

retainer
clips from both clutch packs to allow
separation of the plates and discs. Refer to Fig.
N-51.

N-30.
Inspection
a.
Plates and discs —
If
any one member of either

stack
shows evidence of excessive wear or scoring,
then the complete stack is to be replaced on both
sides.

b.
Side gears and pinion mate gears —
The
gear

teeth
of
these
parts should be checked for extreme

wear
or possible
cracks.
The external
teeth
of the side gear which holds the clutch pack should also
be checked for wear or
cracks.
If replacement of one gear is required due to wear, etc., then both
side gears, pinion mate gears, and washers are to
be replaced.

c.
Cross
pin
— If excessive wear is evident, then
the cross pin should be replaced.

d.
Clutch
retainer clips — If wear is evident on
any
one of the retainer clips, it is
suggested
that

all
four clips be replaced.
e. Differential case — If scoring, wear, or metal
pick-up
is evident on the machined surfaces, then replacement of the case is necessary.

I.
Example of
radial
groove plate (A) and the con­

centric
groove disc (B) shown in Fig. N-52.

N-31.
Reassembly
a.
Assemble plates and discs in exactly the same position as they were removed, regardless of
whether they are new parts or the original parts. 306

N

REAR
AXLE

FIG.
N-57—POSITIONING GEAR ROTATING TOOL
g. Assemble the other clutch pack and side gear
exactly as shown. Be sure the clutch pack stays
assembled
onto
the side gear splines and that the
retainer
clips are completely seated into the pockets
of the case. Refer to Fig. N-56.

h.
Position the gear rotating tool into the top side
gear.
FIG.
N-58—THREADING FORCING SCREW
INTO ROTATING TOOL

FIG.
N-59—STARTING PINION MATE GEARS INTO CASE
i.
Keep side gear and rotating tool in position
by holding with hand. Insert the forcing screw down
through the top of the case, and thread into the
rotating tool. Refer to Fig. N-58.
j.
Position both pinion mate gears exactly as
shown. Be sure the holes of the gears are lined up

with
each other. Hold gears in place by hand. See

Fig.
N-59.

k.
Tighten forcing screw so that the Belleville
springs
will
compress and allow clearance between
the
teeth
of the pinion mate gears and side gears.
FIG.
N-60—ROTATING PINION MATE GEARS
INTO POSITION
I.
While holding the pinion mate gears in place,

insert
the pawl of the rotating tool between one
of the side gear
teeth
as shown.
Pull
on handle
so that the top side gear
will
rotate and allow the pinion mate gears to rotate and enter into the case.

Note:
As mentioned before, it
will
probably be
necessary to adjust the forcing screw by very
slightly loosening or tightening until the required load is applied to the Belleville plates or discs to allow the side gear and pinion mate gears to rotate.
FIG.
N-61—INSTALLING PINION MATE WASHERS

308

m

REAR AXLE
c. Attach the brake line
hose
at tee fitting on top
of housing.

d.
Attach parking brake cables at rear of brake
backing plate. DJ
models
only.
e. Connect the shock absorbers at the axle mount­
ing pads.
f. Connect the propeller shaft at the rear universal
joint.
g. Adjust and bleed brakes. (See Section P).

h.
Install
wheels
and lower vehicle to floor.
i.
Check parking brake as described in Section P.

j.
Fill
the axle housing with the proper lubricant.

For
correct lubricant refer to the
Lubrication
Chart.

N-34.
TROUBLE
SHOOTING

The
following problems can be present with either the conventional differential,
Powr-Lok
or
Trac-
Lok
differential.
N-35. Backlash

Excessive
backlash in the vehicle drive line may be the results of
excessive
backlash in the trans­
mission, propeller shaft spline, universal joint, ring gear and pinion, the axle shaft spline, or the dif­
ferential.
Excessive
backlash in the differential may be meas­

ured
as follows:
a.
Jack
up one rear wheel.
b. Put the transmission in gear.
c. Measure the travel of the jacked-up wheel on
a
10"
[25,40
cm.] radius from the wheel center.

This
total
movement
should not
exceed
IVi" [3,17 cm.] in a new unit. In order to restrict the

backlash
to the axles only, make sure that the
yoke of the propeller shaft
does
not
move
during
the check.

d.
If all causes of backlash mentioned
above
have

been
eliminated with the exception of the differen­

tial
and that still
exceeds
the maximum allowable
movement, overhaul the differential.
N-36.
Rear
Wheel
Noise

Looseness of the rear axle shaft nut on semifloat- ing tapered rear axles may produce a clicking or
creaking
noise.
This
noise
can usually be
stopped

by torquing the wheel hub nut 150 to 175 lb-ft. [20,7 a 24,2 kg-m.]. If the condition has continued
for
some
time, slight wear may have resulted allow­
ing the
noise
to persist. In this case, coat the hub,
key, and keyway on tapered axle shafts with white
lead and torque the nut as specified. If the
noise
persists after this treatment, replace the worn parts.

N-37.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

SYMPTOMS

Axle
Noisy on Pull and
Coast
Excessive
Back
Lash
Bevel
Gear
and Pinion. . . . . Adjust

End
Play Pinion Shaft Adjust

Worn
Pinion Shaft Bearing Adjust
Pinion
Set too Deep in Bevel
Gear
too Tight..... Adjust

Wrong
Lubricant
Being Used
(Powr-Lok
or
Trac-Lok
Differential) . Replace

Axle
Noisy on
Pull
Pinion
and Bevel
Gear
Improperly Adjusted Adjust

Pinion
Bearings Rough....................... Adjust

Pinion
Bearings Loose Adjust

Axle
Noisy on Coast
Excessive
Back
Lash
in Bevel
Gear
and Pinion. . . Adjust

End
Play in Pinion Shaft. . Adjust

Improper
Tooth Contact.
....................
Adjust
Rough Bearings Replace

Back
Lash
Worn
Differential Pinion
Gear
Washers Adjust
Excessive
Back
Lash
in Bevel
Gear
and Pinion. . . Adjust

Worn
Universal Joints Replace
PROBABLE REMEDY

310

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

O Note:
If the steering-gear-to-frame
bolts
are not

properly
torqued, they
will
eventually
loosen
dur­

ing operation of the vehicle. Loose
bolts
will
result
in
elongated
bolt
holes
making maintenance of bolt torque difficult, and may allow position of the
steering columns to be misaligned. Therefore,
proper
torquing is extremely important.
Do not tighten the steering gear to dampen out
steering trouble. Adjust the steering gear only to
remove lost motion or play within the unit.
0-5. Steering
Gear
Adjustment
The
cam and lever steering gear is illustrated in

Fig.
0-2. It consists of a
spiral
cam, and a cross shaft and lever assembly with two lever studs.
When
the steering wheel is turned, the cam
moves

the studs, causing rotary movement of the cross
shaft, which in
turn
causes angular movement of
the*steering arm.

Two
adjustments of the steering gear are necessary:
up and down play of the steering shaft, and adjust­ment of the lever studs (tapered pins) in the

cam
groove.

Adjustment
of the
ball
thrust bearings to eliminate up and down play of the steering shaft is ac­
complished by removing shims which are installed
between
the steering gear housing and the upper
cover. Before making this adjustment
loosen
the
housing side cover adjusting screw to free the pins
in
the cam groove. Loosen the housing cover to
cut and remove a shim or more as required.
Install
the screws and tighten. Adjustment should be
made to have a slight drag but allow the steering
wheel to
turn
freely with thumb and forefinger
lightly gripping the rim.

Shims
installed for adjustment are .002*, .003", and .010"
[.0508,
.0762
and .254 mm.] in thickness.

Adjustment
of the tapered pins in the cam
groove

is accomplished by adjusting screw. Unlock the

adjusting
screw and
turn
it in until a very slight
drag
is felt through the mid-position when turning
the steering wheel slowly from one extreme position
to the other.

Backlash
of the pins in the
groove
shows up as
end play of lever shaft, also as backlash of steer­ ing arm.

The
cam
groove
is purposely cut shallow in the

straight
ahead driving position for each pin.
This

feature permits a
close
adjustment for normal

straight
ahead driving and provides precision steer­ ing and permits take up of backlash at this point
after the wear occurs without causing a bind else­

where.
Always
adjust within the high range through
the mid-position of pin travel. Do not adjust off
"straight
ahead" position.
Backlash
in turned posi­
tions is not objectionable.
0-6.
Front
Wheel Alignment Adjustments
To
ensure correct alignment, a definite procedure
for inspection of the steering system is recom­ mended. It is
suggested
that the following sequence
be used:

a.
Equalize
tire pressures and level vehicle.
b.
Check
steering gear to steering column align­
ment.

c.
Inspect steering knuckle pivots, spindle, and
wheel bearing
looseness.

d.
Check
wheel runout.

e.
Test wheel balance and bearing adjustment.
f.
Check
for spring sag.
g.
Inspect brakes and shock absorbers.

h.
Check
steering gear assembly adjustment and
steering connecting rod.

i.
Check
caster,

j.
Check
toe-in.
k.
Check
toe-out
on turns.

I.
Check
camber.

m.
Check
tracking of front and
rear
wheels,

n.
Check
frame alignment.

The
factors of alignment, caster, camber, and toe-
in,
are all interrelated and if one adjustment is
made, another adjustment may be affected.
There­

fore, after an alignment job is completed, make a
complete recheck of all the adjustments to be sure
the
settings
are within the limit. Be sure all front
suspension and steering system nuts and
bolts
are

all
properly torqued before taking wheel alignment readings.

Proper
alignment of front wheels must be main­
tained in order to ensure
ease
of steering and satis­factory tire life.

The
most important factors of front wheel align­ment are wheel camber, axle caster and wheel
toe-in.

Wheel
toe-in is the distance the wheels are closer

together
at the front than at the
rear.
Wheel
camber is the amount the wheels incline out­

ward
at the top from a vertical position.
Front
axle caster is the amount in
degrees
that the
steering pivot pins are tilted towards the front or

rear
of the vehicle. Positive caster is inclination of
the top of the pivot pin towards the
rear
of the ve­

hicle.
Zero caster is the vertical position of the
pivot pin. Negative or reverse caster is the in­
clination
of the top of the pin towards the front
of the vehicle.

These
points should be checked at regular inter­
vals,
particularly when the front axle has been
subjected to a heavy impact. When checking wheel alignment, it is important that wheel bearings and

knuckle
bearings be in proper adjustment. Loose bearings
will
affect instrument readings when

checking
the camber, pivot pin inclination and
toe-in.
To
accurately check camber and caster, use a wheel
aligning fixture.
Camber
and caster of the front
wheels are both preset.
Camber
cannot be altered
but caster can be adjusted by installing caster shims
between
the axle pad and the springs. Wheel toe-in
may
be adjusted. To measure wheel toe-in, use a
wheel aligning fixture or follow the procedure given
in Par.
0-8.
0-7.
Front Wheel Toe-in
Toe-in
as illustrated in
Fig.
0-3, is necessary to
off­

set the
effect
of camber as shown in Fig. Q-4. 315

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

The
purpose of caster Fig. O-S, is to provide steer­
ing stability which
will
keep the front wheels in the
straight
ahead position and also assist in straighten­
ing up the wheels when coming out of a
turn.
Caster
of the front wheels is preset. If the angle of

caster,
when accurately measured, is found to be

incorrect,
correct it to the specification given at
the end of this section by either installing new

parts
or installing caster shims
between
the axle

pad
and the springs.

If
the camber and toe-in are correct and it is known
the the axle is not twisted, a satisfactory check

may
be made by testing the vehicle on the road.
Before road testing, make sure all tires are properly

inflated,
being particularly careful that both front
tires are inflated to exactly the same pressure.
If
vehicle turns easily to either side but is
hard
to
straighten out, insufficient caster for easy handling of vehicle is indicated. If correction is necessary, it

can
usually be accomplished by installing shims

between
the springs and axle pads to secure the
desired
result.
0-11-
Front
Wheel
Turning
Angle
When
the front wheels are turned, the inside wheel
on the
turn
travels in a smaller circle than the out­side wheel, therefore, it is necessary for the wheels
to toe out to prevent the tire on the inside wheel

frOm
being scuffed sideways.
This
angle for toe out
on turns is designed to permit both front wheels to

turn
on a common center by having the ends of the
steering
knuckle
arms closer
together
than the king­

pins.

To
avoid possible damage to the universal joints
on the front axles of 4-wheel drive vehicles, it is advisable to check the turning angle.
Wearing
away
of the upset
edge
on the spindle housing bolt which
10607

FIG.
0-6—TURNING
ANGLE
STOP
SCREW
1—Stop
Screw
contacts the
stop
screw
will
increase the turning
angle to the point where the universal joints may
be damaged.

The
Jeep Universal Series vehicles should have a

turning
angle of not more than 27^° both left and

right.
To adjust the
stop
screw, it is necessary to

loosen
the locknut holding the
stop
screw. When
the adjustment has been made, tighten the locknut
on the screw to prevent any movement. Refer to
Fig.
O 6.

The
left steering knuckle arm controls the relation­
ship of the front wheels on a left
turn
and the right
arm
controls the relation on a right
turn.

0-12. Steering
Knuckle
Arm

Should
a steering knuckle arm
become
bent, the

knuckle
housing must be replaced. It is not safe to
straighten the knuckle arm.
0-13.
Front
Wheel
Shimmy
Wheel
shimmy may be caused by various condi­
tions in the wheels, axle or steering system, or a
combination of
these
conditions. Outlined below

will
be found the usual corrections of this fault:

a.
Equalize
tire pressures and see that they are
according
to specifications.

b.
Check
the wheel bearings for
looseness.
Be sure
that the inner wheel bearing race is not too
loose
on the spindle.

c.
Remove both steering knuckles and carefully inspect the upper and lower king pin bearings.

Inspect
the bearing cups for evidence of brinelling,
pitting, or fretting. Any bearings that show the slightest imperfection must be
replaced.
Reassemble

and
lubricate the front axle and steering linkage,
installing
new steering knuckle oil seals if present
seals show any wear.

d.
With
full
weight on the front wheels and one

man
working the steering play with the steering
wheel, a second man should closely observe the steering bell
crank
for any rocking motion and the
double tie rod socket for any rocking motion or

looseness
at both points. Replace the complete bell
crank
assembly if it has even the slightest rocking motion. The same applies to the double tie rod
socket.
e.
Check
wheel run-out.
This
check should include
radial
run-out and wheel
looseness
on the hub.
f- Test wheel balance—check for blowout patches,
uniform
tire tread, vulcanized tires, mud on inside
of wheels, and tires creeping on the
rims.

g.
Try
switching front wheels and tires to the
rear,
criss-crossing
them in this operation.

h.
Check
for front
spring
sag. Also check for broken

spring
leaves, broken center
spring
bolt,
loose
spring

clips
(or tight clips), over-lubrication of spring leaves, spring shackle bracket
loose
on frame, and

loose
rear
spring shackle. Be sure that the shock
absorbers
are operating properly to eliminate bob­bing of the front end.

i.
Check
brakes to make sure that one
does
not

drag.

j.
Check
the steering assembly and steering con­ necting rod.
This
includes the up-and-down-play
of the steering worm shaft, end play of the cross 317

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
©—P3
10789

FIG.
0-8—STEERING TIE ROD
1—
Cotter
Pin 6—Lockwasher

2—
Nut 7—Left Tie Rod

3—
Dust
Cover
8—Lubrication
Fitting
4—
Left
Socket 9—Left Socket (For Right Tie Rod) 5— Nut 10—Right Tie Rod 11—
Right
Socket

12—
Bolt

13— Tie
Rod
Clamp

0-17.
Tie Rod
Removal
First
disconnect and remove the steering tie rod

from
the bellcrank. Refer to Fig. O-l. The tie
rod
can then be removed by removing the cotter
pins and
nuts
at the
ends.
To remove the tie rod

from
the steering knuckle arms, use a puller or
expansion
fork.
Then
separate
the
joint
seals
and
fittings,
if
necessary.
The tie rod
sockets
can be
removed by loosening the
nuts
on the clamp bolts
and unscrewing the
sockets
from
the tie rod
tubes.

Refer to Fig. 0-8. When installing the
components

of
the steering linkage, new
seals
should be in­ stalled as
necessary.
All
nuts
should be torqued 38
to 42
lb-ft.
{5,2 a 5,8
kg-m.],
and new cotter pins
installed.
If the bellcrank was removed, the
steer­

ing
bellcrank nut should be torqued 70 to 90
lb-ft.
[9,7
a 12,4
kg-m.].

0-18.
Steering
Bellcrank
Service
Refer to Fig. 0-9.
The
assembly
and adjustment of this unit is ex­
tremely important; the information outlined below must be
followed
carefully whenever servicing the
bellcrank
assembly
on late model vehicles.
A
service kit
Part
No. 991381 containing the
bell­

crank shaft, bearings,
seals,
bolt, nuts, and
washer
is
available for servicing this
assembly.
Be certain that all
parts
are installed in their proper position.
When assembling the parts, be
sure
the new
bear­

ings in the bellcrank are positioned
Y%"
[3,175 mm.]
below the
surface
of the bellcrank
face
as shown. The
bearings
have
a
light
press"
fit that
will
hold
them in
place
after locating them in the proper
position.
Finally, when installing
washers,
the
chamfer on the
washer
must be installed toward
the bellcrank.

After
completing the
assembly,
and before attach­

ing
the connecting
rods
to the bellcrank levers,
make
your
final
adjustment to the
assembly
as

follows:

a.
With
the W [11,113 mm.] diameter clamp bolt
loosened, adjust the locknut on the end of the
bell­
crank shaft
until
the bellcrank just
rotates
freely

without
a bind.

Note:
On early model vehicles using bellcrank kit

Part
No. 920556, torque the bellcrank shaft nut
(Fig.
O-l #14) 70 - 90
lb-ft.
[9,7 a 12,4
kg-m.].
319

o

STEERING
SYSTEM 0-28.
SBKF1CE
DIAGNOSIS

SYMPTOMS PROBABLE REMEDY
Hard Steering
Lack
of Lubrication Lubricate all Connections
Tie
Rod
Ends
Worn.
Replace

Connecting Rod
Ball
Joints
Tight. Adjust
Cross
Shaft Improperly Adjusted Adjust Steering
Gear
Parts
Worn...................
Replace

Steering
Loose
Tie
Rod
Ends
Worn
Replace

Connecting Rod
Ball
Sockets
Worn
Replace

Steering
Gear
Parts
Worn.
Replace
Steering
Gear
Improperly Adjusted.
......
Adjust
Road Shook; Steering Connecting Rod too Tight;
Axle
Spring
Clip
Loose; Wheel Bearings Loose;
Poor
Shock Absorber

Control,

Turning Radius
Short One
Side
Center
Bolt
in Spring
Sheered
Off,
Axle
Shifted, Steering Arm Bent, Steering Arm not Properly Located

on
Steering
Gear.

0-29.
STEERING
SPECIFICATIONS
F4
ENGINE
V6
ENGINE

STEERING
GEAR:
Make.
Ross
Ross

Type
Cam
and Lever

Cam
and Lever

Ratio..
17.9 to 1
19 to 1
Bearings:
Ball

Cam-Upper
Ball Ball

Cam-Lower
Ball Ball

Lever
Shaft Bushing
Bushing
Steering Column-Upper
Ball
Ball

Lever
Shaft:
.0005*
to
.0025"
[0,0127
a
0,0635
mm.]

Clearance
to Bushing
.0005"
to
.0025"
[0,0127
a
0,0635
mm.j
.0005*
to
.0025"
[0,0127
a
0,0635
mm.]

End
Play .000'
.000"

Lash
at Cam (Straight Ahead) Slight Drag
Slight Drag
Wheel Diameter.
17M*
(438 mm.]
17M*
[438 mm.]
Wheel
Turns.
2.58
2.58

STEERING
GEOMETRY:
King
Pin Inclination
m°
I
72

Toe-In.
W to W U,2 a 2,3 mm.] W to W [1,2 a 2,3 mm.]

Camber
1°
30'

1°
30'

Caster
3°
3°

Turning
Angle:
27K°

DJ,
CJ Models

27K° 273^°

Turning
Radius with 27^° Angle: 17' 6" [5,3 mm.]

CJ-3B,
CJ-5, CJ-5A.
17' 6" [5,3 mm.]
17' 6" [5,3 mm.]

CJ-6,
CJ-6A
22' 10" [7,0 mm.]
22' 10" [7,0 mm.]
Outside Wheel Angle with Inside Wheel at 20°:
20° 20°
322

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

P
BRAKES

SUBJECT
PAR

GENERAL.
. P-l
Brake
Maintenance P-5
Master
Cylinder.
P-2

Parking
Brake
P-3
Transmission
Brake
P-4

BRAKE SERVICE
.P-6 Bleeding Brakes P-7

Brake
Adjustments P-14

Brake
Hoses P-8

Brake
Shoe
Initial
Adjustment P-l9

Brake
Shoe Installation P-l8

Brake
Pedal Adjustment P-9

Hand
Brake.
P-10 Inspection P-17
SUBJECT
PAR

Brake
Shoe Removal P-l6

Master
Cylinder Reconditioned. . P-20

Parking
Brake
Adjustment
.P-l 1
Relining
Transmission
Brake
P-13

Relining
Wheel
Brake
P-l5

Transmission
Brake
Adjustment .P-12

Wheel
Brake
Units P-14

Wheel
Cylinder Reconditioning P-21

TROUBLESHOOTING
P-2 2 Squeaky Brakes P-23
Rattles in Brakes P-24

SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS.
P-25

SPECIFICATIONS
P-2 6

P-1. GENERAL
A
double-safety
hydraulic brake system in con­
junction with self-adjusting wheel brake units are
standard
equipment on all current production
'Jeep* vehicles. The
double-safety
brake system
Is
equipped with dual
stop
light switches that op­
erate independently of each other, thus eliminating
possible
stop
light failure. Service information for
self adjusting brakes starts with Par. P-14.
All
four-wheel-drive vehicles are equipped with a transmission brake that operates in the drive line

and
is mounted to the rear of the transfer case. Two-wheel-drive vehicles
(DJ-5,
DJ-6)
are equipped
with a hand-operated parking brake that operates at the rear wheels.

P-2.
Master Cylinder —
Double Safety-Brake System

The
master cylinder (cast integrally with the res­

ervoir)
is the compensating type. Refer to Fig.
P-2 and P-13.
Action by the brake pedal
moves
the master cylin­der piston which exerts pressure on the fluid in
the cylinder and lines. 12914

FIG.
P-l—DOUBLE SAFETY BRAKE SYSTEM —
LATE
MODELS 1— Stop Light Switch and Tee (Froat)
2—
Line
Tee (Front)

3—
Master
Cylinder (Dual System
4—
Brake
Pedal Assembly 5—
Brake
Hose
6—
Line
Tee
(Rear)
7—
Wheel
Cylinder (Left
Rear)

8— Proportioning Valve
(Early
Models)
9— —Stop Light Switch and Tee
(Rear)

10—
Wheel
Cylinder (Left Front)
11—
Front
Brake
Hoses
323