1953 JEEP CJ seat adjustment

M
FRONT
AXLE
1— Nut
2—
Lock
Washer

3—
Bearing
Lock
Washer
4—
Wheel
Bearing Cup 5—
Cone
and Rollers
6—
Oil
Seal 7— Spindle
8— Spindle Bushing
9—
Filler
Plug
10—
Right
Knuckle and Arm
11— Shims
12— Pivot Pin
13—
Lock
Washer
14—
Cap
Screw
15— Nut
16—
Washer

17—
Universal
Joint Yoke
18—
Oil
Seal
19—
Oil
Slinger
FIG.
M-2—FRONT
AXLE

20—
Cone
and Rollers
21—
Bearing
Cup
22—
Right
Axle Shaft with Universal Joint
23—
Knuckle
Oil Seal Retainer
24— Housing Breather 25—
Front
Axle Housing
26—
Axle
Shaft with Universal Joint
27—
Oil
Seal
28—
Axle
Shaft Guide
29—
Shim
Pack
30—
Bearing
Cup
31—
Cone
and Rollers
32—
Ring
Gear
and Pinion
33—
Thrust
Washer

34—
Thrust
Washer

35—
Differential
Gears
36— Housing Cover Gasket
37— Housing Cover
38—
Fill
Plug 39—
Screw
and
Lock
Washer
40—
Bearing
Cup
41—
Cone
and Rollers
42— Shims
43—
Lock
Pin
44—
Pinion
Shaft
45—
Differential
Case
47— Bolts
48— Nut
49—
Oil
Seal and Backing Ring
50—
Thrust
Washer
51— Snap Ring
52— Stop Bolt
53— Nut 54—
Bearing
Cup
55—
Cone
and Rollers
56—
Gasket

checked, making sure it is clean and open.

The
front wheel bearings should be checked every
12,000
miles. Refer to Section Q. Front wheel toe-

in
is adjustable by lengthening or shortening the
tie rod. However, standard caster and camber of
the front
wheels
are built
into
the axle. Wheel
caster can be adjusted by placing tapered shim
plates or
wedges
between
the springs and spring

seats
welded to the axle housing. Steering
geometry

and
front wheel adjustments are discussed in Sec­ tion O.

The
axle housing should be checked periodically
for weld cracks and/or other damage that may cause misalignment of the front
wheels
or
loss

of lubricant. The spring clips (U-bolts) should be
inspected and torqued every
12,000
miles. Torque (spring clip) nuts 45 to 50 lb-ft. [6,2 a 6,9 kg-m.].

M-4. FRONT
AXLE
REMOVAL
a.
Raise front end of vehicle
arid
safely support the frame by placing stands under the frame at
the rear of the front spring rear hangers.
b. Place
jack
under front axle housing and relieve
axle
weight
from the springs.
c. Disconnect shock absorbers from spring clip plates.
FIG.
M-3—HUB
CAP
PULLER

d.
Disconnect steering link from tie rod socket-
joint assembly.
e. Disconnect hydraulic brake
hoses
from front

brake
lines. Disconnect
hoses
from frame brackets. 278

FRONT
AXLE

FIG.
M-l
1—FRONT
STEERING

KNUCKLE

(With
Spicer Universal Joint)
1—
Wheel
Hub Cap

2—
Driving
Flange Cap Screw

3—
Axle
Shaft Drive Flange Gasket 4—
Wheel
Bearing Cup
5—
Front
Wheel Spindle
6—
Brake
Drum
7—
Front
Brake
Cylinder

8—
Brake
Backing Plate

9—
Pivot
Pin Bearing Cap
10—
Pivot
Pin Bearing Cap Nut
11—
Pivot
Pin 12—
Pivot
Bearing Adjusting Shims

13—
Pivot
Pin Cone and Rollers
14—
Steering
Knuckle
Oil Seal 15—
Front
Axle Universal Joint
16—
Thrust
Washer
17—
Brake
Backing Plate Screw
18—
Brake
Shoe and
Lining

19—
Hub
Oil Seal
20—
Wheel
Hub Bolt Nut
21—
Wheel
Bearing Cone and Rollers 22—
Wheel
Bearing Washer

23—
Wheel
Bearing Retaining Nut
24—
Wheel
Adjusting Nut
Lock
Washer
25—
Wheel
Bearing Retaining Nut
26—
Snap
Ring

c.
Install
the wheel bearing spindle and bushing.
d.
Install
brake backing plate.
e.
Grease and assemble wheel bearings and oil

seal.
Install
the wheel hub and drum on the wheel
bearing
spindle.
Install
the wheel bearing washer
and
adjusting nut. Tighten nut with
Wrench
W-144
as shown in
Fig.
M-5, until there is a slight drag on the bearings when the hub is turned.
Then
back off approximately one-sixth of a
turn.
Install
lock

washer
and nut, tightening nut
into
place, and then bend lip of lock washer over on the locknut.
f.
Install
drive
flange
and gasket on hub and attach
with
six cap screws and lock washers.
Install
snap

ring
on outer end of axle shaft.

g.
Install
hub cap.
h.
Install
the wheel, lug nuts, and wheel disc.
i.
If
tube
was installed with axle assembly on
vehicle, check front wheel alignment (Section O),
bleed brakes (Section P), and lubricate front axle

universal
joints (Section B).

M-12.
FRONT
AXLE
INSTALLATION

To
install the front axle, reverse the procedures described in
Par.
M-4 and then perform the follow­
ing operations:

a.
Torque spring clip plate (U-bolt) nuts securing the axle to the front springs, (see Par. M-4).

b.
Adjust and bleed the brakes (see Section P).

c.
Check
axle lubricant level and
fill
as necessary, (see Section B).

d.
Check
front end wheel alignment (see Section
O).
e.
Check
wheel turning angle. Refer to Par. M-14.
M-13.
Steering
Tie Rod and
Bell Crank

These
parts of the front axle are covered in Sec­
tion O.
M-14.
4-Wheel Drive
Turning
Angle

Adjustment
and service information regarding
turning
angles
is covered in Section O.

M-15.
2-WHEEL-DRIVE
FRONT
AXLE
The
front axle is of the reverse
Elliot
type. It is a
steel forging, heat treated for strength and ma­
chined
to
close
limits. The steering knuckles are
mounted on pins which pass through
openings
at each end of the
"I"
beam and are locked securely

in
position with tapered pins and nuts. The knuckles

ride
on
ball
thrust bearings for
ease
of steering. See
Figs.
M-12, M-13.

The
knuckles are connected by a tie rod which is
mounted on
ball
and socket connections. The tie

rod
is adjustable to secure correct
toe-in
of the front wheels. A steering connecting rod
connects

the
left
knuckle arm with the steering gear arm.

Standard
caster and camber of the front
wheels
are
built
into
the front axle. Wheel camber cannot
be changed however, caster can be adjusted by

placing
tapered shims or
wedges
between
the
springs and spring seats. For
complete
information

regarding
the steering
geometry
refer to the
Section O.

M-16.
Removal of Solid
Front
Axle

Note:
The procedure for removing the solid front
axle varies slightly, depending on whether the
springs are slung under or over the axle. These

variations
are
noted
in the following procedure.

a. -
Raise the front end of the vehicle and safely support the frame behind the springs.

b.
Remove the
wheels
by removing the wheel
discs and lug nuts.

c.
Disconnect the steering connecting rod at the
ball
and socket connection on the steering knuckle. 282

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

N
f. Place the
gauge
block against the machined
sur­

face of the dial indicator mount, as shown in Fig.
N-2 8.
g. Set the dial indicator on zero by rotating the face.

h.
Install
the pinion adjusting fixture on the pinion

with
the stationary
guide
pin and the adjustable
guide
pin
seated
in pinion shaft lathe centers, as
shown in Fig. N-2 7.
FIG.
N-2
7—PINION
ADJUSTING FIXTURE
7—
C-Clamp

8— Sleeve Bearing
9—
Inner
Bearing
10— Housing 11—
Stationary
Guide Pin
1—
Dial
Gauge Swing Arc
2—
Pinion

3—
Flange

4—
Yoke

5—
Thumb
Screw
6—
Guide
Pin 12—Pinion Housing

Note:
Use the "C"
type
alignment fixture ver­

tically
as shown in Fig. N-29, so that
weight
of jig assembly is always directly centered and supported
on pinion shaft center. The function of the fixture is to accurately hold the dial indicator and its
FIG.
N-28—SETTING
PINION
GAUGE FOR
MODEL
27AF
AXLE
DIFFERENTIAL
1—
Dial
Indicator
2—
Gauge
Block
3—
Stationary
Pin
4—
C-Clamp
j
11534 j

FIG.
N-29—CHECKING
PINION
ADJUSTMENT mount in alignment to the pinion shaft while it is
pivoted on the stationary
guide
pin. If a consistent
repeat dial reading cannot be obtained, look for
dirty
or burred pinion centers or a
bent
or twisted
aligning jig. Keep jig flat in metal case when not
in
use. Do not allow other
tools
to rest on it
Treat

the C-type fixture
tool
carefully as a precision in­
strument.

i.
Seat the
gauge
mount firmly on the pinion head

and
swing the dial indicator through the differential
bearing bore as shown in
Fig.
N-29.

j.
The
lowest
reading indicates the center of the
differential bearing bore. At this point the dial indi­
cator should read the same as
mark
etched on the
pinion head. If the reading
does
not agree, add or
remove the shims behind the bearing cup until
the readings agree.

k.
The end of each pinion is etched with a plus
(+) number, a minus (—) number or zero (0)
number to indicate the
best
running position for
each particular gear set.
This
dimension is con­
trolled by shimming behind the inner pinion bear­ ing cup. Therefore if a pinion is etched (-f-2), this
pinion would require .002"
less
shims than a pinion
etched "0". By removing shims the mounting dis­
tance is increased which is just what a (+2) etch­
ing indicates. Or if a pinion is etched (—2), add
.002" more shims than would be required if the
pinion were etched "0". By adding .002" shims the mounting distance is decreased which is just what

a
(—2) etching indicates.

Note:
To increase the dial reading decrease shims;
to decrease the dial reading increase shims.

Example:
With a dial reading of minus .001" and
a
pinion marking of plus .002" remove .003" shims
to obtain a higher dial reading of plus .002"

I.
If the original ring and pinion set is to be re­
used, measure the old pinion shim pack and build a
new shim pack to this dimension. Collect shim pack
saved from teardown. Measure each shim separately 297

STEERING
SYSTEM

O-L
GENERAL

The
steering system on all Jeep Universal vehicles
consists of the steering gear, steering wheel, steering column and shaft, and steering linkage.
This

section covers wheel alignment, steering linkage,
steering gear, steering column and steering wheel.
0-2. Steering
Gear
Function

The
steering gear is a reducing gear. It exchanges a

relatively
large amount of movement with a small force (applied by the driver at the steering wheel), for a much smaller amount of movement with a
greatly increased force through a cam and lever
action type steering gear. The steering gear ratio is 17.9 to 1 on vehicles equipped with the F4
engine

and
19 to 1 with the V6 engine.
0-3. Steering
Linkage
Refer
to Fig. O-l.
The
steering linkage consists of a steering arm at­
tached to the steering gear, a steering connecting

rod,
(drag
link),
connecting the steering arm to the
beilcrank,
and a steering tie rod connecting the
beilcrank
to the axle tie rod. The beilcrank pivots
on a pin mounted just to the left of the frame front crossmember. The steering tie rod is connected to
the beilcrank and
extends
to the right
ball
joint as­ sembly of tie rod. The tie rod
extends
to the wheels,
being connected to their respective steering knuckle

arms
at the wheels.
With
this linkage arrangement,
as the steering arm
moves
rearward,
the front
wheels
turn
to the left. As the steering arm
moves
forward,
the wheels
turn
to the right.
Ball
joints are used to secure the drag
link,
steering
connecting rod and tie rod ends. The
ball
joints
assist in maintaining
good
steering control and con­
stant toe-in of the front wheels under all driving conditions. If the
ball
joints
become
worn enough
to allow free motion in the linkage, they should be,

replaced.

Note:
Ball
joint replacement of the tie rod requires
resetting of the wheel toe-in adjustment.
0-4.
Steering
Column
and Gear
Alignment
When
adjusting a steering gear remove all loads
from
the unit by disconnecting the steering con­
necting rod (drag
link)
from the steering arm and
also
loosen
the instrument panel bracket and the
steering gear to frame
bolts
to allow the steering
post
to correctly align itself. When retightening the
steering gear to frame
bolts
use a torque wrench
pull
of 45 to 55 lb-ft. [6,2 a 7,6 kg-m.] on the

Vk*
bolts
and 30 to 40 lb-ft. [4,15 a 5,5 kg-m.] on the
Vs"
bolts. 10811

FIG.
0-2—STEERING
GEAR
1—Nut

2
—Lockwasher

3—
Steering
Gear
Arm 4—
Lever
Shaft Oil Seal
5—
Outer
Housing Bushing
6—
Inner
Housing Bushing 7—
Filler
Plug
8—
Cover
and Tube
9—
Ball
Retaining
Ring

10—Cup
11—
Ball
(Steel)
12—
Tube
and Cam
13—
Shims

14—
Upper
Cover

15—
Lockwasher

16—
Bolt

17—
Steering
Wheel 18—
Horn
Button Retainer
19—
Horn
Button
20—
Horn
Button Cap 21— Nut
22—
Spring
23—
Spring
Seat
24—
Bearing
25—
Horn
Cable

26—
Horn
Button Spring
27—
Spring
Cup
28—
Steering Column
29—
Oil
Hole
Cover

30—
Clamp
31—
Adjusting
Screw
32— Nut
33—
Bolt

34—
Side
Cover
35—
Gasket

36—
Shaft
and
Lever

37—
Housing
314

o

STEERING
SYSTEM
10

FIG.
0-7—STEERING
CONNECTING
ROD
(DRAG
LINK)
10696

1—Cotter Pin

2>—Large
Plug

3—
Ball
Seat

4—
Ball
Seat Spring 5—
Spring
Plug
shaft,
tightness
of the steering gear in the frame,

tightness
of steering gear arm, adjustment of the
steering connecting rod and condition of the steer­ ing tie rod
ball
joint ends. Adjust the steering con­
necting rod (drag
link)
to maximum safe
tightness

at both ends. Examine the steering beilcrank bearings, the shaft in the mounting bracket, and
the mounting bracket on the frame cross member,
k.
Check
front axle caster.
This
should be the same
on both sides, otherwise a locking brake may be

indicated
causing a twisting action of the axle.
Correct
caster is shown in specifications at the end
of this section.

I.
Check
the front wheel toe-in. See Specifications,

m.
Check
wheel
toe-out
on turns.
This
gives
you

an
indication of the proper angularity of the steer­
ing knuckle arms and tells whether or not they have been bent and require replacing. These may be checked by comparing them with new parts. If

an
arm is bent, check for a bent tie rod.
n.
Check
wheel camber.
This
should be the same
on both wheels as shown on the Specifications,

o.
Check
the king pin inclination. See Specifica­ tions.

p.
Check
the tracking of the front axle and frame
alignment, which may be incorrect due to an accident.

0-14.
STEERING
LINKAGE
SERVICE
The
steering linkage must maintain constant toe-
in
and
good
steering control under all driving
conditions.
This
requires
ball
joints at each end
of the tie rods and steering connecting rod. All
joints in the steering linkage must be kept well
lubricated
for easy operation and long life. Should
the joints be worn, allowing excessive free motion
in
the linkage, the joints must be replaced. When­
ever
ball
joints are replaced, toe-in must be reset. Because
some
members of the steering system may
have
become
bent or distorted, a periodic inspection
should be made.
0-15.
Steering Connecting
Rod
(Drag
Link)

The
steering connecting rod is of the
ball
and socket
type. All
ball
seat springs and adjusting plugs are 6—
-Dust
Cover

7—
Dust
Shield
8—
Small
Adjusting Plug
9—
Lubrication
Fitting
10—Connecting Rod

identical,
the only difference
between
front and
rear
end being the relative location of the springs.

The
correct assembly of the steering connecting
rod
is shown in Fig. 0-7. At the front or axle end,
the spring and spacer are assembled
between
the
rod
and
ball
seat, while at the steering gear end,
spring
and spacer are
between
the
ball
seat and the
end plug. In the illustration the front end is to the left.

When
removing springs and
seats
for any reason,
make
sure they are reassembled as shown in the

illustration
because this method of assembly re­
lieves road shock from the steering gear in both di­
rections. To adjust the
ball
joint, screw in the plug

firmly
against the
ball,
approximately 20 ft. lb. [2,8 kg-m.] then back off one quarter
turn
and lock

with
a new cotter pin inserted through
holes
in the
tube and the slot in the adjusting plug. To adjust the
ball
joint at the steering gear arm, screw in the end plug firmly against the
ball,
then back off one

full
turn
and lock with a new cotter pin inserted
through
holes
in the tube and the slot in the ad­

justing
plug.

The
above adjustments
will
give
the proper spring
tension and avoid any
tightness
when swinging
the wheel from maximum left to right
turn.
The
ball
joints must be tight enough to prevent end

play
and yet
loose
enough to allow free movement.
0-16. Tie Rod
The
tie rods are of three piece construction con­sisting of the rod and two
ball
and socket end as­ semblies.
Ball
and socket end assemblies are
threaded into each rod and locked with clamps,

around
each end of the rod. Right and left hand threads on tie rod end assemblies provide toe-in adjustments without removing the tie rod ends from
the steering arm.

'Jeep'
Universal models are equipped with a

divided
tie rod connected to a bell-crank mounted
on the frame cross member.
With
this type con­

struction
the toe-in of each wheel is adjusted in­
dependently. See heading "Toe-in adjustment".

When
wear takes place in the tie rod end
ball
and socket, it
will
be necessary to replace the
ball
and socket assembly and also the rubber seal. 318

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

P
f. On vehicles without a transmission brake hold
the brake
shoes
in their relative position and
engage
the parking brake cable
into
the parking

brake
lever.
g. On vehicles without a transmission brake in­
stall
the parking brake strut and spring
between

the parking brake lever and the primary
shoe.

h.
Place the brake
shoes
on the backing plate and

install
the retainer pins, springs and retainers.

i.
Install the anchor pin plate.

j.
Install the lever and
sleeve
on the primary
shoe
then install the secondary return spring, then the
primary
return spring.

Important:
A
"L"
or "R" is located on the hex­

agon
side of the lever crank for identification. The
lever crank marked "R" applies to the primary
shoe
on the
left
rear brake assembly. The lever
crank
marked
"L"
applies to the primary
shoe
on
the right rear brake assembly.
k. Place the upper linkage rod in the
groove
of the
anchor pin and
engage
the hook of the link rod
into

the adjusting lever.

I.
Install the brake drum. Install the wheel and

tire
assembly.
m. Adjust the brakes as described
below.

P-19.
Brake
Shoe
Initial
Adjustment —

a.
Should wheel brake units have
been
disassem­ bled for any reason, an initial adjustment
MUST
be made
before
drum installation.

b.
When the brake parts have
been
installed in
their correct position, initially adjust the adjusting
screw assemblies to a point where approximately Y% [9,53 mm.] of threads are
exposed
between
the

star
wheel and star wheel nut.

Note:
Following the initial adjustment and final
assembly, check brake pedal height to ensure

brake
operation. Then drive the car in reverse and
FIG.
P-12—BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENT
1—
Star
Wheel
2—
Lever

3—
Screwdriver
4—
Brake
Adjusting Tool
forward,
making 10 to 15 brake applications prior
to road testing.
This
action balances the adjust­
ment of the four brake units and raises the brake
pedal.
c. Adjustment may be made manually by remov­ing the access
slot
cover and using a brake adjust­
ing
tool
or screw driver to rotate the star wheel
until
the wheel is in the locked position. To tighten, rotate the star wheel in the clockwise direction.
Then
back off the star wheel at least 15 to 20

notches
(clicks).

d.
To back off the star wheel on the brake, insert
ice pick or thin blade screw driver in adjusting screw
slot
to hold lever away from adjusting screw.

Back
off on adjusting screw until wheel and drum

turn
freely. Replace adjusting
hole
cover.

Caution:
DO NOT attempt to back off on ad­
justing screw without holding adjuster lever away from screw as adjuster
will
be damaged.
P-20. Master Cylinder Reconditioning —
Dual
System

Refer
to Fig. P-13.

DISASSEMBLY
a.
Remove the filler cap and empty all fluid.
b.
Remove the snap ring, push rod assembly, and
the primary and secondary piston assemblies. Air pressure applied in the piston
stop
hole
will
help
facilitate the removal of the secondary piston as­
sembly.
c. The residual check valves are located under
the front and rear fluid
outlet
tube
seats.

d.
The
tube
seats
must be removed with the
self-

tapping screws supplied in the repair kit to permit removal of the check valves. Screw the self-tapping
screws
into
the
tube
seats
and place two screw

driver
tips under the screw head and force the
screw upward as shown in Fig. P-14.
e. Remove the expander in the rear secondary cup, secondary cups, return spring, cup protector,
pri­

mary
cup, and washer from the secondary piston.
f. The primary piston, with the rubber cups in­ stalled, is supplied in the repair kit.

CLEANING
a.
After disassembly, immersion of all metal parts
in
clean brake fluid or a brake system cleaner is
recommended. Use air
hose
to blow out dirt and cleaning solvent from recesses and internal pas­

sages.
When overhauling a hydraulic brake unit,
use all parts furnished in the repair kit. Discard
all
old rubber parts.

b.
After cleaning, place
all"
hydraulic
system parts
on clean paper or in a clean pan.

INSPECTION
Inspect all other parts for damage or
excessive

wear.
Replace any damaged, worn, or chipped
parts.
Inspect hydraulic cylinder bore for
signs
of
scoring, rust, pitting, or etching. Any of
these
will
require
replacement of the hydraulic cylinder. 331

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

P h.
Install
the tube seats, flat side toward the check

valve,
and press in with tube nuts or the master

cylinder
brake pipe tube nuts.

BLEEDING
a.
Before the master cylinder is installed on the
car,
the unit must be bled.

b.
Support the cylinder assembly in a vise and

fill
both fluid reservoirs with approved brake fluid,

e.
Loosely install a plug in each
outlet
of the

cylinder.
Depress the push rod several times until

air
bubbles cease to appear in the brake fluid.

d.
Tighten the plugs and attempt to depress the piston. The piston travel should be restricted after
all
air is expelled.
e.
Install
the master cylinder on the car and bleed
the hydraulic lines at the wheel cylinder. Refer to
Par.
P-7.

P-21.
Wheel
Cylinder
Reconditioning
•
Refer to Fig. P-15.
Note:
Make sure a replacement brake cylinder
has the same part number as the original cylinder.

FIG.
P-15—WHEEL
BRAKE CYLINDER
1— Boot

2—
Piston

3—
Cylinder
Cup
4—
Cup
Spring
5—
Cylinder

6—
Bleeder
Screw
a.
To remove a wheel cylinder,
jack
up the vehicle

and
remove the wheel, hub, and
drum.
Disconnect
the brake line at the fitting on the brake backing
plate. Remove the brake
shoe
return spring which

will
allow the brake
shoes
at the toe to
fall
clear of the brake cylinder. Remove two screws holding
the wheel cylinder to the backing plate.
b.
Remove the rubber dust covers on ends of

cylinder.
Remove the pistons and piston cups and
the spring.

c.
Wash the parts in clean alcohol.

d.
Examine the cylinder bore for roughness or
scoring.
Check
fit of pistons to cylinder bore.
e. When reassembling the cylinder, dip springs, pistons and piston cups in brake fluid.
Install

spring
in center of the wheel cylinder.
Install

piston cups with the cupped surface towards the

spring
so that the flat surface
will
be against
the piston.
Install
pistons and dust covers.
f.
Install
wheel cylinder to the backing plate and connect brake line and install brake
shoe
return

spring.

g. Replace wheel, hub, and
drum.

h.
Bleed the brake lines (Par. P-7).

P-22. TROUBLE
SHOOTING

P-23.
Squeaky
Brakes

In
most cases, squeaks are entirely eliminated by

correct
adjustment of the brakes. Squeaks may be
caused however, by glazed linings, lining wore thin
to the point of
exposed
rivets or by vibration. A

drum
will
not vibrate when the brake is securing

uniform
contact over the entire lining surface, ex­
cept when due to improper conditions such as the
linings becoming glazed.
Glazed
surface of the

brake
linings may be removed by a stiff
wire
brush.
Occasionally
squeaks are caused by roughened
sur­

face of the
drum,
which can usually be remedied
by rubbing down with emery cloth and by wiping
the brakings surface clean. In extreme cases it may
be necessary to reface the drum in a lathe. Should
this be done, do not remove a metal thickness greater than .030" [0,762 mm.] - .060" [1,52 mm.]

overall
diameter.

P-24. Rattles
in
Brakes

See that the tension of the springs in the brakes

and
attached to the control system are sufficient to

return
brakes and brake mechanism to their normal
position.
Return
springs are so placed that they
keep all slack out of the control system by tension on all joints.

Brakes
will
not rattle inside the
drum
if the springs
holding the
shoes
are kept at the proper tension. 333

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

FIG.
Q-5—REAR
WHEEL

ATTACHING
PARTS —
FLANGED
AXLE

1—
Brake
Backing Plate

2—
Retainer
Ring

3—
Unit-Bearing

4—
Oil
Seal
5—
Retainer
Plate 6—
Brake
Drum
7—
Cup
Plug
8—
Flanged
Axle Shaft
14284

Q-4. Checking
Front
Wheel Bearings

Raise
the front end of the vehicle with a
jack

so that the tires clear the floor.

Grip
the tire and
test
sidewise shake of the wheel.

If
bearings are correctly adjusted, shake of the
wheel
will
be just perceptible and wheel
will
turn

freely with no drag.

If
bearing adjustment is too tight, the rollers may

break
or
become
overheated. Loose bearings may cause
excessive
wear and noise.

If
this
test
indicates bearing adjustment is neces­

sary,
follow
the procedure given in Par. Q-5. Loose
bearings
will
cause sidewise shake that is evident

around
the entire circumference of the wheel. A shake that is evident only when gripping the
wheels
in
a plane parallel to the ground, but not evident

around
the entire circumference, probably indicates
looseness
in the steering linkage.

Q-5.
Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment
With
the vehicle on the
jack,
the following proce­

dure
should be followed to adjust the front wheel
bearings on four wheel-drive vehicles.
a. Remove the hub cap, snap
ring,
capscrews, and
washers that attach the driving
flange
to the hub.

b.
Using the
Front
Axle Shaft Drive Flange Puller

W-163,
pull
the driving flange.
c. Bend the lip of the nut lock washer so that the

locknut
and lock washer may be removed.

d.
Rotate the wheel and tighten the adjustment nut until the wheel binds.

Note:
Front
tire and wheel must be rotated by

hand
as the adjusting nut is
tightened
to ensure positive seating of the bearing.

Then
back off the adjusting nut about one-sixth
turn
making sure that wheel rotates freely without
sidewise shake.
e. Replace the lock washers and locknut. Bend
over the lock washer lip.
f.
Check
the adjustment (Par. Q-4). Reassemble the driving
flange
and hub cap. Make certain the
gasket is properly installed
between
the hub and
the flange.

•
Model DJ-5, DJ-6

On
two-wheel drive vehicles, remove the hub cap
and
the wheel retaining nut cotter pin. Rotate the
wheel and tighten the wheel retaining nut until the wheel binds.
Then
back off nut about one-sixth
turn
or more if necessary making sure wheel ro­

tates
freely without sidewise shake. Replace the cotter pin and hub cap.

Q-6.
Rear
Wheel Bearing Adjustment —

Flanged
Axle Shaft

Vehicles
equipped with the
flange
type
rear
axle
shaft require no wheel bearing adjustment. The flanged axle shaft is equipped with a single row,

pre-adjusted,
tapered roller unit-bearing capable of
accepting thrust in either direction. The unit-

bearing
adjustment is built in at the factory mak­
ing shimming or bearing adjustment unnecessary.

Refer
to Fig. Q-6.

Q-7.
Checking
Rear
Wheel Bearings —
Tapered
Axle

Raise
wheel on which adjustment is to be made
by placing a
jack
under the axle housing.
With
hands,
test
sidewise shake and in and out play
of the wheel. If bearings are correctly adjusted,
shake of wheel
will
be just perceptible and the 337