1953 JEEP CJ seat adjustment

'Jeep9
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

E
exterior moving parts of a carburetor are
often

responsible for unsatisfactory performance.
For
this

reason,
efficient carburetion depends upon careful cleaning and inspection while servicing.

a.
Thoroughly clean carburetor castings and metal
parts
in carburetor cleaning solvent.

Caution:
Accelerator pump plunger and any fiber

or
rubber parts should never be immersed in
car­

buretor
cleaner. Wash pump plunger in cleaning
solvent.

b.
Blow out all passages in the castings with com­
pressed air. Dry all parts with compressed air.

Make
sure all jets and passages are clean. Do
not use wire to clean fuel passages or air bleeds.

c.
Check
inlet valve
needle
and seat for wear. If

wear
is noted, the assembly must be replaced.

d.
Check
float hinge pin for wear and check float
for damage.

e.
Check
throttle and choke shaft bores for wear

and
out-of-round.
f. Inspect idle mixture adjustment
needles
for
burrs
or
grooves; replace if damaged.
g. Inspect cup of accelerator pump plunger; re­
place if damaged, worn, or hardened. Inspect pump

well
in bowl for wear or scoring.

h.
Check
filter screens for
dirt
or lint.
Clean,
and

if
they remain
clogged,
replace.

i.
If for any reason parts have
become
loose
or
damaged in the cluster assembly, the assembly
must be replaced.

Note:
Use ijew gaskets whenever the carburetor
is disassembled.

E-37.
Throttle Body Assembly
a.
Install
idle mixture adjustment
needles
and
springs in throttle body. Tighten finger-tight, then
unthread
one
turn
as a preliminary adjustment
setting.

Caution:
Do not force idle mixture adjustment
needles
against
seats
or damage may result.

b.
Invert
fuel bowl body and place new throttle
body gasket on bowl. Fasten throttle body to bowl
body with three screws and lockwashers; tighten

securely.

E-38.
Fuel
Bowl Body Assembly

a.
Drop steel discharge check
tall
of accelerator
pump into discharge hole.
Install
pump discharge

spring
and T-shaped retainer. Stake retainer in
place.

Note:
Top of retainer must be flush with flat

surface
of fuel bowl body.

b.
Install
two inserts in main well. Align surface
on lip of insert with flat surface in recess on top
of main well.
Install
venturi cluster with gasket,

and
tighten mounting screws evenly and securely.

Be
certain that center screw is fitted with fiber gasket, and that a special smooth shank screw is
used.
c.
Install
two main metering jets, power valve
gasket and power valve.

d.
Install
small aluminum inlet check
ball
in ac­

celerator
pump inlet at
bottom
of pump well. In­

sert
pump return spring into well, and center by
pressing spring downward with finger.

e.
Install
pump inlet screen in
bottom
of fuel

bowl.

E-39.
Air
Horn Body
Assembly

a.
Install
choke lever and collar on choke shaft.

Prong
on choke lever must face away from air

horn
body and be on top of choke trip lever.
b.
Install
choke shaft and lever assembly into the

air
horn. Choke rod
hole
in the choke lever must
face fuel inlet side of carburetor.

c.
Install
choke valve plate in choke shaft so that
letters RP
will
face upward in finished carburetor.
Install
two new valve plate attaching screws, but
do not tighten securely until valve plate is centered.

To
center choke valve plate on choke shaft, hold
choke valve tightly closed, then slide choke shaft

inward
to obtain approximately .020" [0,508 mm.]

clearance
between
choke trip lever and choke lever

and
collar assembly. Tighten choke valve screws

securely,
and stake lightly in place. Choke valve

will
be perfectly free in all positions when installed
correctly.

d.
Insert
outer accelerator pump lever and shaft as­ sembly into air horn body, with lever pointing to­

ward
choke shaft.
Install
inner pump arm, with plunger
hole
inward,
and tighten set screw securely.
Position pump plunger assembly on inner pump
arm,
with pump shaft pointing
inward,
and install

retainer.

e.
Install
needle
seat screen on inlet valve seat. In­

stall
seat and gasket in air horn body. Tighten seat
securely with a wide-blade screwdriver.
f.
Install
power piston into vacuum cavity.
Lightly
stake piston retainer washer in place. Piston should

travel
freely in cavity.
g.
Install
air horn gasket on air horn body, fitting
gasket over guide pin.

h.
Attach inlet valve
needle
to float.
Carefully

position float and insert float hinge pin. Drop tang
at
rear
of float arm downward toward air horn.

i.
Install
fuel inlet fitting, if removed.

j.
With
air horn assembly inverted, measure the distance from the air horn gasket to top of float
at toe \%£f [27,78 mm.] for standard carburetors

and
\%i [29,36 mm.] for exhaust emission control
equipped carburetors, as shown in Fig. E-23. Use
float level
gauge
J-5127-2. Bend float arm as re­

quired
to adjust float level.

k.
With
air horn body held upright, measure dis­
tance from gasket to
bottom
of float
pontoon
at outer end. Use a l7/s" [47,625 mm.] float drop

gauge.
Bend float tang, as required, to adjust float

drop.
See Fig. E-24.

I.
Carefully
place air horn body on fuel bowl
body, making certain that the accelerator pump
plunger is properly positioned in the pump well.
Lower
the cover gently, straight down; install air 123

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

E
is generally caused by excessive
engine
idle speed

in
combination with retarded ignition timing,

engine
heat soak or the use cf low octane fuel.
Should
engine
dieseling
(engine
running after ignition key is turned off) be experienced on V-6

engine
equipped vehicles, installation of Idle Stop
Valve
Kit
Part
No.
991722
will
correct the
difficulty.

E-43.
Fast
Idle Adjustment
No fast idle speed adjustment is required.
Fast

idle is controlled by the curb idle speed adjustment

screw.
If curb idle speed is correctly set and the choke rod is properly adjusted, fast idle speed
will

be correct;

E-44.
Dash Pot Adjustment —
F4
and V-6 Engine

•
Refer to
Figs.
E-27 and E-28. Before adjusting the dash pot, the
engine
idle speed

and
mixture should be correctly adjusted.
With
the

engine
idling at normal operating temperature,
adjust
the dash pot as follows:

The
dash pot adjustment is made with the throttle
set at curb idle (not fast idle). Loosen dash pot lock
nut and
turn
the dash pot assembly until dash pot
plunger contacts the throttle lever without the plunger being depressed.
Then
turn
the dash pot
assembly 2turns against the throttle lever, de­ pressing the dash pot plunger. Tighten the lock nut
securely. As a final check, open carburetor and
allow throttle to snap closed. Time dash pot delay­ ing action from the point where the throttle lever
hits the dash pot to the point where the lever
stops

moving. The dash pot should delay or cushion
closing action for two seconds by saying, "One
thousand and one, one thousand and two."
14204

FIG.
E-27—DASH
POT
ADJUSTMENT—V6
ENGINE
1—
Throttle
Lever
3—Dash Pot
2—
Plunger
4—Lock
Nut
E-45.
FUEL
PUMP
(DOUBLE-ACTION)
—

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

•
Early
Models

The
double-action fuel pump consists of a metal
body, a rubber diaphragm, rocker arm, valves,
FIG.
E-28—DASH
POT
ADJUSTMENT—F4
ENGINE

1—
Throttle
Lever
3—Dash Pot
2—
Plunger
4—Lock
Nut springs, gaskets, and a glass sediment bowl complete

with
strainer.
The
metal pump body provides
a
work­
ing housing for the diaphragm, lever, valves, and springs. The fuel pump is mounted on the left side
of the
engine
and is actuated by an eccentric on the
camshaft. An air
dome
is cast into the metal cover
to relieve the carburetor
needle
valve and the fuel
pump diaphragm of excessive pressure when the

carburetor
needle
valve is closed.

Tracing
pump operation from the beginning, the
camshaft eccentric forces the diaphragm up, over­
coming spring pressure.
This
action creates a
partial
vacuum
in the pump chamber.
Fuel
from the main

tank
is forced into the low-pressure pump chamber
through the open disc valve. Incoming fuel supplies
the force necessary to open the valve, which is

a
one-way check valve. As the
engine
camshaft continues to rotate, spring pressure forces the

diaphragm
downward as the pump rocker arm
follows the camshaft eccentric to its low
spot.

The
downward action of the diaphragm
closes

the intake valve and forces fuel to the carburetor

reservoir
through the pump
outlet
valve. Both intake and
outlet
valves are one-way check valves
opened and closed by fuel flow. No mechanical components are required in the control of valve
operation.

Fuel
is delivered to the carburetor only when the float
needle
is off its seat. When the fuel level in the carburetor bowl is high enough for the float to
force the
needle
against its seat, pressure backs up
to the fuel pump air
dome
and causes the diaphragm
to
stop
pumping. In this position, the pump is said
to be balanced because the pressure in the pump- to-carburetor line equals that of the diaphragm

spring.
In this way, fuel from the pump to the
carburetor
is always under pressure. The carburetor

uses
fuel, causing the float to drop and
pull
the

carburetor
needle
valve off its seat. Pressure in the pump immediately drops as fuel is delivered to the

carburetor
reservoir. Almost instantaneously the

diaphragm
again starts operating to pump more 125

G
COOLING SYSTEM
12761

FIG.
G-10—WATER
PUMP—

CROSS-SECTIONAL
VIEW
—
DAUNTLESS
V-6
1—
Hub

2—
—Shaft
and Bearing
3—
Cover

4—
Impeller

5—
Ceramic
Seal
6—
Seal
Assembly front end of the pump body. Position the seal,

washer,
and pump seal on shaft flush against the ground seat in the water pump body. Place the

impeller
on an arbor press and press the long end
of the shaft into the impeller until the end of the shaft is flush with the hub of the impeller. Support
the assembly on the impeller end of the shaft and
press the pulley hub on the shaft until the shaft end is flush with the pulley hub. Move the shaft

in
the pump body to align the retaining wire
grooves
in the bearing and pump body and place
the bearing retaining wire in position.

G-l
5. Water Pump Removal and Replacement — Dauntless V-6 Engine

Drain
the cooling system. Remove the fan belt and remove the cooling fan and pulley from the hub on
the water pump. Disconnect the
hoses
from the
water
pump. Remove the cap screws that secure
the water pump to the timing chain cover; remove
the water pump. Do not disassemble the water

pump;
it is serviceable only as an assembly. When

replacing
the water pump, torque the water pump cap screws 6 to 8 lb-ft. [0,829 a 1,106 kg-m.].

G-16.
Antifreeze Solutions

When
water freezes it expands approximately 9%

in
volume. When water, confined in a cooling sys­
tem, freezes it exerts tremendous pressures causing
serious damage. To prevent freezing, antifreeze can
be added to the water to lower its freezing point.

The
two
types
of antifreeze commonly used today have either a methanol or ethylene glycol base,

and
contain corrosion inhibitors. The only anti­
freeze recommended for the cooling system of

'Jeep'
vehicles is ethylene glycol (permanent type).

Methanol
base antifreeze evaporates with the water
when the vehicle is operated at warmer tempera­
tures and requires more attention to avoid
loss
of
protection. Ethylene glycol base antifreeze seldom
evaporates at normal operating temperatures.

Methanol
solution is injurious to vehicle finishes.
Should
any be spilled on the vehicle, it should be
washed off immediately with a
good
supply of cold water without wiping or rubbing. Under ordi­

nary
conditions, ethylene glycol is not injurious to
vehicle finishes.

Warning.*
Drinking
ethylene glycol antifreeze or its
solutions can be harmful or fatal. Do not use anti­
freeze containers for
food
or beverages.

A
table in Par.
G-2
2
gives
the protection obtained
by the addition of various amounts cf ethylene glycol.
Before installing antifreeze, inspect the cooling sys­
tem to be sure it is clean, leak-proof, and otherwise

in
proper operating condition.
Drain
the cooling system, see Par. G-3. Pour in 3 quarts [3 ltr.] of

clean
water, add the required quantity of anti­ freeze, then add clean water to within 1" [2,54 cm.] of the top of the overflow pipe to allow for expan­
sion when hot. Run the
engine
until it is
warm.

Then
recheck the solution level.
Check
the anti­
freeze protection with a hydrometer reading.

G-l7.
Inhibited Coolant Solutions

All
'Jeep5 vehicles equipped with either the
Hur­
ricane
F4 or Dauntless V-6
engine
should use only

inhibited
year-round, permanent-type
engine
cool­
ant
solutions that are formulated to withstand two

full
calendar years of normal operation without

draining
or adding inhibitors. The
engine
cooling
system should be completely drained and the
rec­
ommended coolant installed every two years. Be-
fo
a
installing the permanent-type solution, inspect the cooling system to be sure it is clean, leakproof,

and
in proper operating condition.

Note:
Water alone, methanol, or alcohol-type anti­
freeze is definitely not recommended for 'Jeep*
Vehicles.

G-l8.
Fan Belt

The
fan, water pump, generator or alternator are
driven
by a V-belt. The drive of the V-belt is on
the side of the V. A fan belt that is too tight
will

cause
rapid
wear of the alternator or generator and
water
pump bearings. If the belt is too
loose,
it may
slip
preventing the water pump from properly cool­
ing the
engine
or the generator or alternator from
properly
charging the electrical
circuit.
Use fan belt
tension
gauge
Tool W-283 to properly adjust belt.

The
fan belt is properly adjusted when it can be
deflected Vi" [13 mm.] with strong thumb pres­

sure
applied midway
between
the fan and alter­

nator
pulleys.
Check
this adjustment and inspect the condition of the fan belt at each
engine
lubri-
168

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM

FIG.
H-42—GROWLER
d.
Install
the armature in starter motor frame,
using care to align the four brushes and brush
springs on the commutator so that they are free to
move
and are square on the commutator.

e.
Install
the thrust washer on the shaft.
Lubricate

the plug and bearing in the end plate.
Install
the
end plate.
Install
the two through
bolts
and tighten securely.

f.
On Prestolite V6 starting motors, check pinion position by measuring from the centerline of the
pinion housing mounting bolt
holes
to the outside

edge
of the pinion.
Correct
measurement with the
Bendix
drive retracted is [19,05 mm.] to
%"
[22,23 mm.]; with drive extended, 1%"

[34,93
mm.] to 1^" [38,10]. Adjust by installing

thrust
washers just inside the commutator end
head or intermediate bearing as required. The
Bendix
drive retaining pin must not project
beyond the outside diameter of the pinion
sleeve.

H-104.
Bench Test

The
motor should first be checked to see that the
free running
voltage
and current are within specifi­ cations. To
test,
connect the motor to a battery,
ammeter and voltmeter. If the current is too high
check
the bearing alignment and end play to make

sure
there is no binding or interference. Using a

spring
scale and torque arm check the stall torque to see that the motor is producing its rated
crank­

ing power. The stall torque
will
be product of the

spring
scale reading and the length of the arm

in
feet.
If the torque is not up to specifications

check
the seating of the brushes on the commutator
and
the internal connection of the motor for high
resistance. The Bendix
Folo-Thru-Drive
should be checked for correct operation. The Bendix pinion
should be checked to see that it shifts when the motor is operated under no load.

H-105.
Bendix Folo-Thru Drive (Prestolite)
The
Bendix
Folo-Thru
Drive is designed to over­

come
premature demeshing of the drive pinion
from
the flywheel ring gear until a predetermined

engine
speed is reached. See Fig. H-43. No repairs or adjustments are possible on this

drive
and a
complete
new unit must be installed

if
trouble develops.

H-106.
Lubrication
of
Folo-Thru Drive
A
periodic cleaning and relubrication of the drive is advisable, the frequency of which
will
depend on
the type of service to which the vehicle is sub­
jected and the locale of operation.

a.
Remove the starting motor from the
engine
and take off the outboard housing. The pinion and

barrel
assembly
will
be in the demeshed position
on the screwshaft. Do not
move
it forward
until
after
that portion of the armature shaft ahead
of the pinion has been cleaned. If accidentally ro­
tated to the outer end of the screwshaft it
will

lock
in that position and cannot be forced back.

b.
Do not disassemble the drive for any reason.

c.
Do not dip or wash the drive in any cleaning solution.

d.
Do not remove the drive from the armature
shaft. Remove
excess
oil, grease or foreign matter
from
the armature shaft by wiping it with a clean cloth.
3
10859
FIG.
H-43—BENDIX
FOLO-THRU DRIVE

Dampen
the cloth with kerosene if necessary. A
light film of
SAE
10 oil may then be applied to the shaft.

e.
Now rotate the pinion and
barrel
assembly to the
fully
extended position, thereby exposing the screw­ shaft triple threads. Use a cloth dampened with
kerosene to wipe them clean. Do not use
gaso­
line
or any
commercial cleaner.
If the dirt is

thick
and gummy, apply the kerosene with a small

brush.
Tilt
the starting motor so that a small
amount
will
run under the control nut. Relubricate

with
a thin film of
SAE
10 oil. Use SAE 5 at ex­ tremely low temperatures.

f.
Reassemble the starting motor to the
engine
with the drive in the extended position.
Carefully
mesh the pinion with the flywheel ring gear before
tightening the starter motor mounting bolts. It may 206

CLUTCH

FIG.
1-14—LIFTING
LEVER
AND
EYEBOLT FROM PRESSURE PLATE
1—
Lever

2—
Eyebolt

3—
Fulcrum
A Pressure Plate
lever and the upper end of the
eyebolt
are as
near
together
as possible. Keep the
eyebolt
pin seated in its socket in the lever as shown in Fig.
1-13.
Lift
the fulcrum over the ridge on the end of the lever.
Lift
the lever and
eyebolt
off the
pressure plate as shown in Fig. 1-14.
1-19.
Inspect
Pressure Plate and Disc
Inspect the pressure plate to make sure that it is not cracked or scored.
Check
on a surface plate
for a warped condition, as a pressure plate out of alignment
will
result in clutch chatter.
Machin­

ing or grinding the face of a warped pressure
plate is not recommended. If a warped condition
exists, replace the pressure plate. A new plate
should be installed if the plate or cushion springs appear to be defective. The cushion springs must
not be bent out of shape or flattened.

The
clutch discs for the nine or twelve spring clutches are designed for operation with their
respective clutches. Difference in general appear­ ance of the discs may be noted in the method of
housing the six torque dampening springs and in the
hub design.

After
removal of the clutch assembly, the disc should be inspected. The presence of grease or oil
on the friction facing can cause the clutch to chatter

and
grab during
engagement
and slip at higher speeds. If this condition is evident, the facings or
disc should be replaced and the cause of oil ac­
cumulation corrected. Excessively worn facings
should be replaced. The clutch disc must be in­ stalled with the long end of the hub toward the

transmission.
1-20.
Inspect Transmission Clutch
Shaft

Slide
the clutch driven plate
onto
the transmission

clutch
shaft to make sure that it is free on the
splines. If the splines on the transmission clutch
shaft are
burred,
remove the
burrs
with a fine file or
stone.
If the movement of the clutch driven
plate is not free on the splines, the result
will
be
clutch
drag and
hard
shifting of transmission gears.
1-21.
CLUTCH
PRESSURE
PLATE ASSEMBLY AND
ADJUSTMENT

1-22. Assemble
Clutch
Levers

Prior
to assembly, apply a small amount of petro­

latum
to each slide of the pressure plate lug.

a.
Lay the pressure plate on the block in the
press.
b. Assemble a lever,
eyebolt,
and pin holding the
lever and
eyebolt
as
close
together
as possible.

With
the other hand, grasp the fulcrum as shown
in
Fig. 1-15.

c.
Insert the fulcrum in the
slots
of the pressure
plate lug.
Lower
slightly and tilt the lower
edge

until
it touches the vertical milled surface of the
lug.
Insert the lower end of the
eyebolt
in the

hole
in the pressure plate. The short end of the lever
will
then be under the hook of the lug and

near
the fulcrum.

d.
Slide the fulcrum upward in the
slots
of the

lug.
Lift
it over the ridge on the short end of the
lever and drop it into the
groove
in the lever
(Fig.
1-15).
1-23.
Assemble
Clutch
Spring and
Cover

a.
After all levers are installed, place the felt grease pads over the eyebolts.
Lubricate
pads

sparingly
with light
engine
oil.
Then
place the
clutch
pressure springs in a vertical position on
the spring
bosses.
FIG.
1-15—INSTALLING
CLUTCH LEVERS

1—
Lover

2—
Eyebolt

3—
Fulcrum

4—
Pressure
Plate
232

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL
b.
Check
the anti-rattle springs in the clutch cover

and
place the cover on top of the pressure plate
assembly. The top of each pressure spring must enter its spring seat in the cover.
Line
up punch

marks
on cover and pressure plate for balance.

c.
Slowly compress the cover making sure that
the
eyebolts
and pressure plate lugs are guided through the proper
holes
in the cover.

d.
Hold the clutch under compression and screw
down the adjusting nuts until they are flush with
the
tops
of the eyebolts. Release the spindle of
the press.

1-24.
Clutch
Lever Adjustment

Important:
Always inspect release lever height
adjustment when installing a new clutch drive
plate.

Place
a clutch
gauge
plate on the flywheel in the
position normally occupied by the driven plate.
FIG.
1-16—CLUTCH WITH GAUGE
PLATE

1—Machined
Land
2—Gauge Plate

FIG.
1-17—CHECKING
LEVERS
FOR
FREE
MOVEMENT
Mount
the cover assembly, center the plate and
line up the three machined lands on the
gauge

plate directly under the levers, as shown in
Fig.
1-16.
Tighten
the cover screws in rotation, one to two

turns
at a time, to avoid distortion of the cover.
FIG.
1-18—CLUTCH HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT
Each
lever should be depressed several times be­
fore checking.
This
will
seat the levers in their operating positions, as shown in Fig. 1-17.
Place
the
gauge
on the hub as shown in Fig. 1-18.

To
adjust the levers,
turn
the lever adjustment nut until the levers are
%{'
to %6" [0,93 a 1,59 mm.]
above the hub. Before staking the adjusting nuts
to lock them in place, work the lever up and down
and
recheck lever adjustment again. Stake the nut with a
dull
punch, as shown in Fig. 1-19.
FIG.
1-19—LOCKING ADJUSTING NUTS

1-25.
Clutch Throwout
Release Bearing

The
clutch throwout or release mechanism consists
of a forked lever which pivots on a
ball
pivot threaded into the clutch housing. A throwout lever

return
spring is anchored to a clip under the
ball

pivot and holds the lever in contact with the
ball

pivot. The clutch throwout bearing, which is a
pre-lubricated
unit, is attached to the forked end of the throwout lever.
Never wash the clutch throwout release bearing in
gasoline or any solvent that
will
dissolve the
lubri­

cant.
It is neither necessary nor possible to
lubri­

cate this bearing at any time. Connect linkage
to the throwout release lever. Adjust free-play as

directed
in Par. 1-3. 233

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

I thickness: .285"
[0,724
cm.], .305"
[0,775
cm.].

Each
spacer should be hardened and ground to size, and then have the dimensional thickness
stamped thereon.

c.
From
flat bar stock at least Vfe" [3 mm.] thick,
make a
gauge
as shown in Fig. 1-22. Harden, grind
to size, and stamp sizes on the
gauge.

1-27.
Clutch Installation

a.
Very
sparingly, apply wheel bearing lubricant
to inner surface of pilot bushing in crankshaft.

Caution:
If
excessive
lubricant is applied to pilot bushing, it
will
run out on face of flywheel when
hot and
ruin
the driven plate facings.
b. Make sure that splines in the driven plate hub
are
clean; apply a light coat of lubricant to splines
of hub and transmission drive gear shaft. Slide plate over gear shaft several times; remove plate
from shaft and wipe off
excess
lubricant.

Caution:
Driven plate facings must be kept clean

and
dry.

c.
Fill
groove
in throwout bearing collar with wheel bearing lubricant. See Fig. 1-23. Make sure
that front bearing retainer of transmission is clean;
apply a light coat of wheel bearing lubricant. Slide
throwout bearing over bearing retainer several times. Remove bearing from retainer and wipe off

excess
lubricant.

12736
FIG.
1-23—LUBRICATION
POINTS
—

CLUTCH
THROWOUT
BEARING
COLLAR

1—Coat
This
Groove 2—Pack
This
Recess
d.
Clean
and apply wheel bearing lubricant to ball
stud in flywheel housing and to the
seat
in clutch

fork.

e.
If disassembled, install pressure plate in the cover assembly, lining up the
groove
on its
edge

with the
groove
on the
edge
of the cover.
Install

pressure plate retracting springs, and the three
drive
strap-to-pressure plate
bolts
and lock washers.

Torque
bolts
11 lb-ft. [1,51 kg-m.].

Note:
The diaphragm
type
clutch assembly is fac­
tory calibrated and requires no adjustment
before
installation. Refer to Par. 1-14 to adjust Borg and

Beck
coil spring
type
clutch assembly.
f.
Install
the pressure plate and driven plate on
flywheel. Support both assemblies with a spare
main
drive gear.

Note:
Be certain that
mark
on clutch cover is
aligned with the
mark
made on the flywheel during
clutch removal.
g.
Install
clutch attaching
bolts
and tighten alter­ nately so that clutch is drawn squarely
into
position
on flywheel.
Each
bolt
must be
tightened
one turn at a time to avoid bending the clutch cover flange.

Torque
bolts
30 to 40 lb-ft. [4,1 a 5,5 kg-m.].

h.
Lubricate
the ball stud and clutch fork with
wheel bearing lubricant and install clutch fork.

Note:
Be certain that fork retaining spring is
tight

on pivot ball stud.

i.
Install
flywheel housing on
engine
cylinder
block.

Caution:
Be certain that dowel pins are installed

in
cylinder block.

j.
Lubricate
the recess on the inside of the throw-
out bearing collar. Be careful not to use too much
lubricant.
See Fig. 1-23.

Caution:
Make certain that the lips of the spring
retainer (attached to the clutch fork) are in
groove
of the bearing. See Fig. 1-24.
k.
Install
throwout bearing assembly and connect
clutch linkage.
I.
Install
transmission as described in Section J. m. Adjust clutch for %"
[19,05
mm.] free travel,
see
Par.
1-3. 235

K

TRANSFER
CASE

FIG.
K-3—UNIVERSAL JOINT FLANGE
PULLER
1—
U-Joint
Flange
Puller
W-172

2—
V-Joint
Flange Holding
Wrench
C-3281

FIG.
K-4—TRANSFER CASE SHIFT LINKAGE
CJ-5A,
CJ-6A

1—Linkage
Adjustment
loosen
the gear and remove the gear. When separat­
ing the two housings, use care that the transmission

main
shaft bearing, which bears in both housings,

remains
in the transmission case.

K-3.
Transfer
Case
Disassembly
•
Refer to Fig. K-1, K-2.

To
remove the gears and bearings from the trans­
fer
case on the bench, the following procedure is
recommended.

a.
Remove output shaft nuts and washers using

Yoke
Holding
Wrench,
C-3281. Remove
rear
out­
put shaft companion flange with brake drum (if
FIG.
K-5—BEARING CONE REMOVING WEDGE

1— Wedge W-139

2—
Cone
and
Roller
so equipped) and front output shaft yoke, using

Tool
W-172.

b.
Remove cover bolts, lockwashers, and
bottom

cover.

c.
Remove the lockplate screw, lockwasher, and

lock
plate.

d.
Use a brass punch to drive out intermediate shaft to the
rear
of the case. Do not
lose
the thrust
washers located at each end of the gear shaft.
e. Remove the intermediate gear, two thrust

washers,
needle
bearings, and spacers,
thru
the
bottom
of the case.
f. Remove the
poppet
plugs, springs, and balls on both sides of front bearing cap. Shift front wheel
shift lever to
engaged
position (shaft forward).
g. Remove the screws, lockwashers, holding the front bearing cap. Remove the cap as an assembly

including
the clutch shaft, bearing, clutch gear,
fork,
and shift rod. Use care not to
lose
the inter­

lock
which floats
between
the shift rods.

h.
Remove the screws, lockwashers holding the

brake
backing plate assembly (if so equipped)
and
rear
output cap with
speedometer
gear as­
sembly. Remove entire unit as an assembly.

i.
Use a rawhide hammer to drive against the front
end of output shaft to drive the
rear
bearing cup

from
the case. Use Tool W-139, as shown in Fig.
K-5,
to
wedge
front bearing
cone
and roller as­
sembly from its seat on the shaft. Place Tool
W-141,
Fig. K-6, on the output shaft
between
the
front bearing and output shaft gear. Use a rawhide

hammer
to drive against the
rear
end of the output shaft to remove front bearing cup from the case.

Loosen
snap ring and slide it forward on the shaft.

Drive
the shaft
thru
the
rear
of the case. As the shaft is removed, gears, snap
ring,
and thrust washer

will
remain in the case and can be removed from 270