1953 JEEP CJ check engine light

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D

10262

FIG.
D-26—FLOATING OIL INTAKE AND PAN 1—
Oil
Float

2—
Gasket

3—
Oil
Float Support

4—
Screw and Lockwasher 5—
Oil
Pan Gasket
6—
Oil
Pan 7—
Bolt
and Lockwasher
8—
Drain
Plug
9—
Drain
Plug Gasket
place it with the gasket in position. The rotors
should then rotate freely, providing that end float of the rotors is
less
than the thickness of the gasket
when compressed or .004" [0,102 mm.]. After as­
sembling the gear on the pump shaft, check the
running
clearance
between
the gear and pump body with a feeler
gauge.
This
clearance should be

from
.022" to .051" [0,559 a 1,295 mm.].

Pump
output is controlled by a pressure relief valve.

CAUTION:
The oil pressure relief spring is
cali­

brated.
Never stretch this spring to alter the relief valve pressure setting. Adjust this setting by the use of shims only. Shims are available that can be
added
between
the retainer and the spring to in­
crease pressure. When shims are present, removing
shims
will
decrease pressure.

This
adjustment
will
change the pressure at higher

speeds
but not at idle speed. Safe minimum pres­

sure
is 6 psi. [0,4 kg-cm2] at idle, at which point
the oil pressure light
goes
out; and 20 psi. [1,4
kg-cm2] at
2000
rpm. (32 mph. [51 kph.]).

D-66.
Oil Pan

Examine
the oil pan carefully for evidence of cor­

rosion,
dents, or other damage. Special attention
should be given to the mounting flange to be sure of proper alignment and a tight seal at the cylinder
block, oil pan, and
engine
front plate. Whenever
the oil pan is removed, it is
best
to install a new

oil
pan gasket.

D-67.
Flywheel

The
flywheel is mounted on the
rear
flange of the
crankshaft.
The crankshaft, flywheel, and clutch
assembly are statically and dynamically balanced
separately and as a unit; therefore,
these
com­

ponents
should be assembled in their original
rela­

tive positions to maintain this balance.

D-68.
Flywheel Inspection

Clean
the flywheel thoroughly with cleaning sol­ vent. Inspect the clutch face of the flywheel for

a
burned or scuffed condition or rivet grooves.

Check
the flywheel for run-out or improper mount­
ing according to the installation procedure given

in Par.
D-87.

If
the inner ends of the flywheel ring gear
teeth
are
only slightly burred cr snubbed, remove the burrs
and
reshape the
teeth
using a small emery wheel. 59

D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE d.
Remove the intake valve adjusting screw lock-
nuts from each of the rocker arm valve lash ad­

justing
screws. Remove the screws from the rocker
arms.

D-76.
Inspection and
Repair

Run
a round wire brush through the bore of the

rocker
arm shaft and clean out the drilled oil holes.
Clean
out the oil
holes
in the rocker arm shaft

brackets,
and the oil
holes
and
grooves
in the bores
of the rocker arm.
Inspect
the diameter of the shaft at the rocker arm

bearing
areas. Replace the shaft if there are scores

or
abrasion marks along the length of the shaft.
Check
the shaft for alignment by rolling it across

a
smooth level surface. If the shaft
will
not
roll
freely, or if it rolls with a bumping motion, the
shaft is out of alignment and must be replaced.
Inspect
the threads of the adjusting screw
hole
in
the rocker arms and if necessary clean with a

proper
size tap. Replace the adjusting screw lock-
nut or the adjusting screw if either part is damaged

or
deformed.

Inspect
the threads in the tapped
hole
in the top
of the rocker arm shaft brackets and if necessary

clean
with a proper size tap. Replace the bracket

if
either side is worn or scored.

D-77.
Reassembly

a.
Install
two rocker arm shaft plugs, one in each
end of the shaft. Slide two
rocker
arm
shaft brackets
onto
the center of the shaft. Align the tapped
holes

in
the brackets with the drilled
holes
in the top of
the shaft and install the rocker arm shaft lock
screws,
making sure the points of the screws enter
the drilled
holes
in the shaft.

b.
Screw the intake valve adjusting screws into
the rocker arms and install the locknuts.

c.
The rocker arms are paired; that is, two of the
arms
are angled to the right and two are angled to
the left. One of each type is used on each end of
the rocker arm shaft. Slide a rocker arm with the

adjusting
screw end of the rocker arm angling

away
from the bracket
onto
the shaft so that the
adjusting
screw is on the same side of the shaft
as the mounting
hole
in the bracket.

d.
Temporarily
secure the end bracket in place by
installing
a rocker arm cover stud in the tapped
opening in the top of the support.
e. Assemble the parts on the
opposite
end of the
rocker
arm shaft repeating
steps
c and d above.

D-78. ENGINE REASSEMBLY
The
engine
reassembly procedure in the following

paragraphs
is given in the sequence to be followed
when the
engine
is being completely overhauled.
Individual
inspection,
repair,
and fitting operations
previously covered in detail are made throughout
the reassembly procedure. The reassembly pro­
cedure
does
not cover accessories. If a new cylinder

block
fitted with pistons is used, many of the
operations
will
not be required.
Mount
the cylinder block in an
engine
repair stand.
If
an
engine
stand is not available, perform the fol­
lowing reassembly operation in a manner designed to protect personnel against an accident and the

engine
and its parts against damage.

Note:
During
engine
reassembly, use Perfect Seal

Aerosol
Spray
Sealer
Part
No.
994757
on all
engine
gaskets to ensure against vacuum, oil, gasoline and

water
leaks. Apply to head gaskets, valve covers,
water
pumps, oil pan gaskets, radiator and heater
hose
connections, felt gaskets, gasoline and oil line
connections, stud bolts,
spark
plug threads, and
grease retainer washers. Refer to manufacturer's in­
structions on container for proper application pro­
cedure.

D-79.
Install
Oil
Gallery
Plug

Coat
plug threads with a suitable sealing compound

and
install the plugs in the front and
rear
ends of
the oil gallery in the cylinder block and the
rear

end of the cylinder head. Torque the plugs 20 to 25 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,4 kg-m.].

There
is also a pipe plug
(}/g,f
[3,2 mm.] slotted, headless) in the opening in the main oil gallery inside the cylinder block at No. 2 cylinder and another pipe plug
(}/g
"
square-head) in the opening

in
the oil passage directly below the oil pump intake
passage. If
these
two pipe plugs were removed,
make
certain they are reinstalled in the locations
described above or the counterweight of the

crankshaft
might strike the projecting head of the
square-head
plug.

D-80.
Install
Tappets

Turn
the block upside down. Beginning at the

rear
end of the cylinder block, install the intake

and
exhaust valve tappets in the tappet bores in the cylinder block in the following order: one
exhaust, two intake, two exhaust, two intake, and
finally
one exhaust valve tappet.

Check
the tappet to bore fit of each tappet as it
is installed in the block. If the stem-to-block

clearance
tolerance of .0005" to .002" [0,0127 a
0,051 mm.] is
exceeded
install a new tappet fitting
within
this tolerance or ream the bore to accomo­ date the next oversize tappet which is available

in
.004" oversize.

D-81.
Install
Camshaft and
Thrust
Plate

Lubricate
all camshaft bearings and cam surfaces generously with clean, light
engine
oil.
Carefully,

so not to damage or score the camshaft front bear­
ing,
install the camshaft, locating it properly in the bearings. Do not allow the
rear
end of the cam­shaft to strike sharply against the expansion plug

installed
in the
rear
end of the bore.
Install
the camshaft thrust plate. Slide the thrust
plate spacer
onto
the end of the camshaft with the
beveled inner
edge
of the spacer facing the cam­
shaft. If the same camshaft is being reinstalled,
install
any shims previously removed. These shims
are
placed
between
the camshaft shoulder and the

spacer.
Torque the thrust plate attaching
bolts
20
to 26 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,6 kg-m.].

End
play of the camshaft is determined by running
clearance
between
the
rear
face of the camshaft
gear and the thrust plate. The standard clearance 62

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
is .004" to .007"
[0,102
a 0,178 mm.] as measured
by a dial indicator. Should a check
show
too little
end play, place a shim of suitable thickness
between

the camshaft shoulder and the spacer. Too much
end play may be corrected by removing shims or
dressing off the spacer a slight amount. See Fig. D-33.
D-82. Install Crankshaft and Bearings

Fit
the three upper main bearings
into
their
respective
locations
in the cylinder block. Fit the
three lower main bearings
into
their respective
bearing caps.

NOTE:
It is
possible
to incorrectly install the front main bearing. The bearing is properly installed in
the cap with the narrower of the two radial oil

grooves
toward the front
edge
of the cap. If this
bearing is not properly installed, the oil
grooves
in
the two halves of the bearing will not match at the
parting line and premature failure of the bearing

will
result.
Lubricate
all bearing surfaces
generously
with
clean, light
engine
oil. Place the crankshaft in

position
in the cylinder block and install the main
bearing caps. Torque the
bolts
65 to 75 lb-ft.
[9,0 a 10,4 kg-m.] rotating the crankshaft after
each bearing cap is
tightened

D-83. Check Crankshaft End-Play

End
play of the crankshaft is set by the running
clearance
between
the crankshaft thrust washer
and the front
face
of the front main bearing. The
standard end play is .004" to .006"
[0,102
a 0,152
mm.] which is controlled by .002"
[0,051
mm.]
shims placed
between
the thrust washer and the
shoulder on the crankshaft. Check the end play
with a dial indicator as shown in
Fig.
D-34. If clear­ ance is incorrect, adjustment is made by adding or
removing shims.
Install
the thrust washer with the
beveled
inner

edge
toward the front bearing.
10668

FIG.
D-33—VALVES, CAMSHAFT,
AND
TIMING GEARS
1— Nut
2—
Left
Rocker Arm
3—
Rocker
Arm Shaft Spring
4—
Rocker
Shaft
Lock
Screw 5—
Rocker
Shaft
6— Nut 7—
Right
Rocker Arm
8—
Rocker
Arm Shaft Bracket
9—
Intake
Valve Tappet Adjusting Screw
10—
Intake
Valve Upper Retainer
Lock

11—
Oil
Seal
12—
Intake
Valve Spring Upper Retainer 13—
Intake
Valve Spring
14—
Intake
Valve Push Rod 15—
Intake
Valve
16—
Intake
Valve Tappet
17—
Camshaft

18—
Camshaft
Front Bearing
19—
Camshaft
Thrust Plate Spacer
20—
Camshaft
Thrust Plate
21— Bolt and Lockwasher
22— Bolt 13—Lockwasher
24—Camshaft
Gear
Washer 25—
Crankshaft
Gear

26—
Camshaft
Gear

27— Woodruff Key No. 9
28—
Exhaust
Valve Tappet
29— Tappet Adjusting Screw
30—
Spring
Retainer
Lock

31— Roto Cap Assembly
32—
Exhaust
Valve Spring
33—
Exhaust
Valve
34—
Rocker
Shaft Support Stud
35—
Washer

36—
Rocker
Arm Cover Stud 63

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

FIG.
D-40—TIMING
GEARS Be
sure
to install a new rubber oil
seal
ring on each

intake
valve stem before installing the retainer

locks.
With
the retainer and spring compressed position a
seal
ring
on the valve stem just above the

lock
recess, then install the locks and release the
spring.

Adjust
the valve tappets to the proper specified

clearance.
Refer to Par. D-108, and specifications
at the end of this section for specifications and
adjustment procedure.

D-91.
Install
Camshaft
Timing
Gear

Turn
the camshaft or crankshaft as necessary so
that the timing marks on the two gears
will
be
together
after the camshaft timing gear is installed.

Refer
to Fig. D-40.
Install
the woodruff key in the key way on the front end of the camshaft.
Start
the large timing gear on the camshaft with the timing

mark
facing out. Do not drive on the camshaft gear, or the camshaft may
dislodge
the plug at the

rear
of the cylinder block causing an oil leak.
Install
the camshaft gear retaining screw and
torque it 30 to 40 lb-ft. [4,1 a 5,5 kg-m.] drawing
the gear
onto
the camshaft in the process. Standard
running
tolerance
between
the timing gears is .000" to .002" [0 a 0,051 mm.] which should be
checked with a
dial
indicator.

D-92.
Install
Timing
Gear
Oil Jet

Install
the timing gear oil jet in the tapped
hole

in
the front of the cylinder block. Position the oil

hole
in the side of the oil jet so that it
will
direct the

oil
stream against the camshaft driven gear just
ahead
of the point of
engagement
with the
crank­
shaft drive gear.

D-93.
Install
Oil Pump

The
oil pump is driven from the camshaft by means of a
spiral
(worm) gear. The distributor, in

turn,
is driven by the oil pump by means of a

tongue
on the end of the distributor shaft which
engages
a slot in the end of the oil pump shaft.
Because the
tongue
and the slot are both machined off center, the two shafts can be meshed in only
one position. Since the position of the distributor shaft determines the timing of the engine, and is
controlled by the oil pump shaft, the position of the oil pump shaft with respect to the camshaft is

important.

Turn
the crankshaft to bring
together
the timing
marks
on the crankshaft and camshaft gears. See

Fig.
D-4 0.
Install
the oil pump mounting gasket on
the pump.
With
the wider side of the shaft on top
(nearer
the top of the cylinder block), start the

oil
pump drive shaft into the opening in the left side of the cylinder block with the mounting
holes
in
the body of the pump in alignment with the
holes
in
the cylinder block. Insert a long-blade screw­

driver
into the distributor shaft opening in the

opposite
side of the block and
engage
the slot in the oil pump shaft.
Turn
the shaft so that the slot is positioned at what would be roughly the nine-

thirty
position on a clock face. Remove tne screwdriver and, looking down the

distributor
shaft
hole
with a flashlight, observe the position of the slot in the end of the oil pump shaft
to make certain it is properly positioned. Replace the screwdriver and, while turning the screw­

driver
clockwise to guide the oil pump drive shaft
gear into
engagement
with the camshaft gear, press
against the oil pump to force it into position. Remove the screwdriver and again observe the
position of the slot. If the installation was properly made, the slot
will
be in a position roughly equiva­
lent to eleven o'clock position on a clock face with
the wider side of the shaft
still
on the top. If the
slot is improperly positioned, remove the oil pump
assembly and repeat the operation.

Coat
the threads of the capscrews with gasket
cement and secure the oil pump in place with two
lockwasher-equipped capscrews installed through the body of the oil pump and into the cylinder block

and
one lockwasher-capscrew installed through
the oil pump mounting flange.

D-94.
Install
Timing
Gear
Cover

Apply
a thin coat of gasket paste to the timing
gear cover. Position the gasket on the cover and

carefully
locate the cover on the front of the front mounting plate. Attach the cover and timing

indicator
and tighten the bolts.

D-95.
Install
Pistons and Connecting Rods
Before installing each piston and connecting rod assembly in the cylinder block, generously lubricate
the entire assembly with
engine
oil. Space the ring
gaps
around the piston so that no two
gaps
are
aligned vertically and are not located over the
T-slot
in the piston
skirt.
Insert the assembly in
the correct cylinder with the connecting rod
identifying number toward the camshaft side of
the cylinder block. When installing each assembly, rotate the crankshaft so that the
crankpin
is in
the down position. Fit a piston ring compressor
tightly around the piston rings. Reach up from the
bottom
of the cylinder block and guide the end of
the connecting rod over the crankshaft
journal
as
the piston is tapped down into the cylinder bore

with
hammer handle. 66

D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
D-101.
Install
Manifold

If
manifold studs were removed for replacement,
apply sealer on the stud threads
before
installing
a
new stud.
See Section Fl for exhaust emission controlled

engines.
Make
certain that no foreign objects are inside the manifold and that all
passages
are clear. Place a
new set of manifold
gaskets
in position on the side
of the cylinder block.
Then,
carefully slide the manifold
onto
the studs and against the cylinder block being careful not to damage the gaskets.
Torque
all manifold attaching nuts evenly 29 to
35 lb-ft. [4,0 a 4,8 kg-m.].
D-102.
Install
Oil
Filler
Tube

When
installing the oil filler tube, be sure that the
beveled lower end is away from the crankshaft.
Place a
piece
of
hard
wood
over the top of the
tube

to prevent damage to the cap gasket seat.
D-103.
Install
Water Pump

Make
certain that the mating surfaces of the water pump and the cylinder block are clean and smooth.
Install
the gasket on the
flange
of the pump and

install
the pump in position on the cylinder block.
Torque
the water pump attaching
bolts
alternately

and
evenly 12 to 17 lb-ft. [1,7 a 2,3 kg-m.].
D-104.
Install
Water Outlet Fitting

Install
the thermostat and the water
outlet
fitting.
Torque
the water
outlet
fitting attaching
bolts
20
to 25 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,4 kg-m.].
FIG.
D-42—INSTALLING HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
IN
VEHICLE

1—
Lifting
Sling
2— Hoist
Cable

3—
Hurricane
F4 Engine
4— Dowel Bolt
5—
Flywheel
Housing
D-105.
ENGINE INSTALLATION
a.
Install
lifting sling to
engine
and using suitable hoist raise the
engine
from its blocking or stand

and
then slowly lower it
into
the
engine
compart­ment of the vehicle.

Note:
When installing the
Hurricane
F4 Engine,
two % x 4 inch
guide
bolts
or
dowels
should be
used to properly
guide
and align the
engine
to the
flywheel housing (See Fig. D-42).
b. Slightly tilt the
engine
downward and at the
same time slide the
engine
rearward
while lining up the transmission main gear shaft with the clutch
throw-out bearing and disc spline.

Note
:The
engine
crankshaft may have to be turned
slightly to align the transmission main gear shaft
with the clutch disc spline.
c. Remove the
guide
bolts
or
dowels
and secure
the
engine
to the housing.

d.
Secure the front
engine
mounts to the frame brackets and
bolt
ground cable to
engine.

e. Remove lifting sling from
engine.

f. Connect exhaust pipe to
engine
manifold flange.
g. Connect throttle and choke cables to carburetor.
h.
Install
fan to water pump pulley.
i.
Connect fuel pump line to main fuel line,

j.
Replace starting motor assembly. k. Connect
engine
wiring harness connectors at
front of cowl.

I.
Connect wires to starting motor assembly, water
temperature and oil pressure sending units and alternator.

NOTE:
ON
ENGINES EQUIPPED WITH EX­

HAUST
EMISSION CONTROL,
REPLACE
THE
AIR
PUMP,
AIR
DISTRIBUTOR
MANI­

FOLD,
AND
ANTI-BACKFIRE (DIVERTER)
VALVE.
SEE
SECTION
Fl.
m. Replace radiator and radiator grille support
rods and connect coolant
hoses
to
engine.

Note:
Replace heater
hoses
if vehicle is equipped
with hot water heater.

n. Fill
radiator with coolant and
engine
with oil
(see
Lubrication
Chart).

o.
Install
air cleaner and connect carburetor air
hose.

p. Connect battery cables and start
engine,

q.
Install
hood
and road
test
vehicle.
D-103.
FINAL
IN-VEHICLE
ADJUSTMENTS
a.
Clean
battery terminals and check battery. b.
Check
ignition terminals and check battery.
c. Service carburetor air cleaner.

d.
Service positive crankcase ventilation valve.
e.
Check
fuel lines. f. Gap and install new
spark
plugs.
g.
Check
distributor
points
and capacitor; replace
if
necessary. 68

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

Dl

©©©©©©©©©

12697

FIG.
Dl-1—DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE, SIDE SECTIONAL VIEW

1—
Fan
Blade
2—
Fan
Spacer

3—Fan
Pulley
4—
Water
Pump 5—
Timing
Chain
Cover
6—
Camshaft
Sprocket
7—
Thermostat
Bypass Hose
8—
Thermostat
Housing
9—
Thermostat

10—
Carburetor

11—
Intake
Manifold
12—
Rocker
Arm Cover 13—
Cylinder
Block 14—
Push
Rod
15—
Camshaft

16—
Flywheel
17—
Clutch
Pressure Plate
18—
Clutch
Driven Plate
19—
Clutch
Pilot Bearing
20—
Oil
Seal Packing
21—
Rear
Main
Bearing Shell
22— Connecting Rods
23—
Rear
Center
Main
Bearing Shell
24—
Oil
Screen
25—
Oil
Screen Pipe and Housing
26—
Oil
Pan 27—
Front
Center
Main
Bearing Shell
28—
Crankshaft

29—
Front
Main
Bearing Shell
30—
Timing
Chain

31—
Crankshaft
Sprocket
32—
Oil
Slinger
33—
Oil
Shedder 34 Oil Shedder Packing
35—
-Woodruff
Key
36—
"Vibration
Damper
37—
Crankshaft
Pulley
38—
Fan
Belt matic adjuster, to prevent lash in the valve operat­
ing linkage. Hydraulic valve lifters also provide

a
cushion of oil to absorb operating shocks. As shown in Fig. Dl-3, all parts of a hydraulic lifter

are
housed in the body, which is the cam follower.

At
the beginning of valve operation, the valve lifter body rests on the camshaft base circle.

Plunger
spring tension prevents lash clearances in the valve linkage.

As
the camshaft forces the valve lifter body up­

ward,
both oil in the lower chamber and check

ball
spring
tension firmly seat the check ball against the plunger to prevent appreciable
loss
of oil from
the lower chamber. Oil pressure forces the plunger
upward,
with the body, to operate the valve linkage.

As
the camshaft rotates to closed-valve position, the valve spring forces the linkage and lifter down­

ward.
When the
engine
valve seats, the linkage

parts
and plunger stop, but the plunger spring forces
the body downward .002" to .003"
[0,050
a
0,076
mm.] until it again rests on the camshaft base

circle.
Oil pressure then forces the check ball away

from
its seat and allows passage of oil past the check ball into the lower chamber.
This
replaces
the slight amount of oil lost by leakage. During
the valve opening and closing operation, a very
slight amount of oil escapes
between
plunger and body, and returns to the crankcase.
This
slight
loss
of oil (leak-down) is beneficial. It provides a
gradual
change of oil in the valve lifter; fresh oil
enters the lower chamber at the end of each cycle
of operation. 77

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

Dl

12713

FIG.
Dl-11—MEASURING
TELESCOPE GAUGE
1—
Telescope
Gauge
2—
Micrometer

may
be measured with an inside micrometer or
by setting the cylinder
gauge
dial
at zero and meas­
uring
across the
gauge
contact points with an out­side micrometer while the
gauge
is at same zero
setting. Refer to
Figs.
Dl-10 and Dl-11.

b.
If a cylinder bore is moderately rough or slightly

scored,
but is not out-of-round or tapered, it is

usually
possible to remedy the situation by honing
the bore to fit a standard service piston, since
standard
service pistons are high-limit production
pistons. If cylinder bore is very rough or deeply
scored,
it may be necessary to rebore the cylinder
to fit an oversize piston in order to ensure satisfac­
tory
results.

c.
If cylinder bore is tapered .005" [0,127 mm.]

or
more or is out-of-round .003" [0,076 mm.] or

more,
it is advisable to rebore for the smallest possible oversize piston and rings.

d.
Carefully
inspect the cylinder block for small

cracks
or fractures, and for porosity.
Rust
in any
cylinder
bore may indicate a leak.

e.
Inspect all machined surfaces for scoring and

burrs.
With
a straight
edge
and feeler
gauge,
check
each
machined surface for distortion.

D1-37.
Cylinder Block Repair
If
one or more cylinder bores are rough, scored, or

worn
beyond prescribed limits, it
will
be necessary
to correct bores and fit new pistons.

If
relatively few bores require correction, it
will

not be necessary to rebore all cylinders to the same
oversize in order to maintain
engine
balance, since
all
oversize pistons are held to the same weights as

standard-size
pistons. If conditions justify replace­
ment of all pistons, however, all new pistons should
be the same nominal size.

Standard-size
service pistons are high-limit, or

maximum
diameter; therefore, they can usually be installed after a slight amount of honing has
been
done
to correct slight scoring or excessive

clearances.
This
applies
primarily
to
engines
which
have relatively low mileage. Service pistons are also furnished in .010"
[0,254
mm.] oversize. All

service
pistons are diamond bored, and selectively
fitted with piston pins; pistons are not furnished
without pins.

Caution:
Do not attempt to cut down oversize pis­

tons
to fit cylinder bores as this
will
destroy the

surface
treatment and affect the weight. The small­
est possible oversize service pistons should be used

and
the cylinder bores should be honed to size

for
proper clearance.

Before
honing or reboring cylinders, measure all new pistons with a micrometer, on an axis perpen­

dicular
to the piston pin. Select the smallest piston

for
the first fitting. The slight variation usually
found between pistons in a set may provide for
correction
in case the first piston tried is too

small.

If
wear at top of cylinder
does
not exceed .005" [0,127 mm.]
excess
diameter, or exceed .003"
[0,076 mm.] out-of-round, honing is recommended.

If
wear or out-of-round
exceeds
these
limits, the
bore should be reground with a boring bar of the

fly
cutter type, then finish-honed.

When
reboring cylinders, all crankshaft bearing caps must be in place and tightened to proper
torque to avoid distortion of bores in
final
assem­
bly.
Always be sure the crankshaft is out of the

way
of the boring cutter when boring each cylinder.
When
boring, leave the diameter .001" [0,025 mm.]

undersize,
then finish hone to obtain the required

clearance.

When
honing cylinders, use clean sharp
stones
of
proper
grade for the amount of metal to be re­
moved. Refer to instructions supplied by the hone
manufacturer.
Dull
or dirty
stones
cut unevenly

and
generate excessive heat. When using coarse

or
medium grade
stones,
leave sufficient metal so
that all
stone
marks can be removed with the fine
stones
used to finish-hone to proper clearance.

When
finish-honing, pass the hone through the entire length of cylinder at a rate of approximately 60 cycles per minute.
This
should produce the

desired
45-degree
cross hatch pattern on cylinder

walls.
A proper pattern
will
ensure maximum
ring
life and minimum oil consumption.

After
final
honing and before the piston is checked

for
fit, each cylinder bore must be washed thor­ oughly to remove all traces of abrasive, then dried completely. The dry bore should be brushed clean

with
a power-driven fibre
brush.
If all traces of

abrasive
are not removed,
rapid
wear of new pistons

and
rings
will
result.

Note:
Wipe cylinder bores with a clean white

cloth,
moistened with SAE 10 oil. Cleaning should
continue until this
test
shows no sign of
dirt.

It
is of the greatest importance that refinished

cylinder
bores be true, with .0005" [0,013 mm.]
or
less out-of-round or taper.
Each
bore must have

a
smooth surface, without
stone
or cutter
marks.
After
final
honing and cleaning, each piston must be fitted individually to the bore in which it
will

be installed. Once fitted, each piston should be
marked
with its cylinder number to assure correct

installation.
85

Dl

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE
Dl-38.
Crankshaft
Cleaning

Clean
the crankshaft thoroughly with a suitable
cleaning solvent.
Clean
drilled oil
passages
in its

journals
with a small rifle brush to remove all
sludge
or gum deposits; dry
passages
with com­
pressed air.

Dl-39.
Crankshaft
Inspection
and
Repair

If
the crankshaft has not
been
removed from the

cylinder
block for inspection, disconnect two con­ necting rods at a time from crankshaft. Inspect
the bearings and crankpin journals. While turning
crankshaft,
it is necessary to temporarily reconnect
the rods to crankshaft to avoid possibility of dam­ aging the journals through contact with uncon­
nected rods.
Inspect the crankpins visually for excessive or ir­

regular
wear, and for scoring. Use an
outside
micrometer to check crankpins for out-of-round.
Standard
crankpin
diameter is
2.0000"
[5,080
cm.].

If
crankpins are more than .0015"
[0,0381
mm.]
out-of-round, new bearings cannot be
expected
to
have satisfactory life.
If
the crankshaft has
been
removed from the
cyl­

inder
block for inspection support it on V-blocks
at its main bearing journals 1 and 4. Inspect the

main
bearing journals visually for excessive or ir­

regular
wear, and for scoring. Standard main bear­
ing
journal
diameter is 2.4995"
[6,349
cm.].
Total

indicator readings at each
journal
should not ex­
ceed .003"
[0,076
mm.].

Check
run out at all four journals and
note
high
spot
(maximum eccentricity) of each
journal.
High

spot
of each
journal
should
come
at the same
angular
location. If high
spots
do not coincide,

crankshaft
is misaligned and unsatisfactory for
service.

If
crankpin or main bearing journals are scored,
ridged, or out-of-round, the crankshaft must be replaced or reground to a standard undersize bear­
ing diameter to ensure satisfactory life of bearings. Slight roughness can be removed with a fine grit
polishing cloth thoroughly
wetted
with
engine
oil.
Burrs
can
be
honed with a fine oil
stone,
so long as
bearing clearances
will
remain within specified
limits.

Dl-40.
Crankshaft
Main
Bearings

A
crankshaft bearing consists of two halves which
are
neither alike nor interchangeable. One half is

carried
in the corresponding main bearing cap; the
other half is located
between
the crankshaft and

cylinder
block. The upper (cylinder block) half
of the bearing is grooved to supply oil to the con­ necting rod bearings, while the lower (bearing cap)

half
of the bearing is not grooved. The two bearing
halves must not be interchanged. All crankshaft
bearings
except
the thrust bearing and the
rear

main
bearing are identical. The thrust bearing (No. 2) is longer and it is flanged to take
crank­

shaft end thrust. When the bearing halves are
placed in cylinder block and bearing cap, the
ends
extend slightly beyond the parting surfaces. When
cap
bolts
are tightened, the halves are clamped
tightly in place to ensure positive seating and to
prevent turning. The
ends
of bearing halves must never be filed flush with parting surface of
crank­

case or bearing cap.

Crankshaft
bearings are the precision type which
do not require reaming to size or other fitting.
Shims
are not provided for adjustment since worn
bearings are readily replaced with new bearings of proper size. Bearings for service replacement are

furnished
in standard size and undersizes. Under no circumstances should crankshaft bearing caps
be filed to adjust for wear in old bearings.

Dl-41.
Crankshaft
Main
Bearing
Cleaning
and
Inspection

Clean
main bearing surfaces. Inspect the bearings

visually
for excessive or uneven wear, scoring, and

flaking.
Visibly worn or damaged bearings must
be replaced. It is necessary to check
radial
clear­ ance of each new or used crankshaft main bearing
before installation.
This
can be
done
by either of two methods, which are described in
Pars.
Dl-42

and
Dl-43.

a.
The desired
radial
clearance of a new bearing
is .0005" to .0021"
[0,0127
a
0,0534
mm.].
b. Replacement bearings are furnished in standard
size, and in several undersizes, including undersizes
for reground journals. If a new bearing is to be installed, try a standard size; then try each under­
size in turn until one is found that
meets
the
specified clearance limits.

Note:
Each
undersize bearing half has a number
stamped on its outer surface to indicate amount of undersize. Refer to Fig. Dl-12. 14288

FIG.
Dl-12—LOCATION
OF
UNDERSIZE
MARK
ON
BEARING
SHELL

1—
Tang

2—
Undersize
Mark
Dl-42.
Main
Bearing
Fitting,
Plastigage

Bearing
clearance can be checked by use of Plasti­
gage,
Type PG-1 (green) which has a range of
.001" to .003" [0,025 a
0,076
mm.]. Refer to

Fig.
Dl-13.

a.
Place a piece of Plastigage lengthwise along the
bottom
center of the lower bearing half, then 86