1953 JEEP CJ check engine light

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
straight
in the hole, then tap the dowel lightly

with
a hammer until it
bottoms.

d.
When installing bearing eaps, be sure to tighten
the
bolts
evenly in each cap to
pull
it into place
without bending the
dowels
or distorting the
bearing
cap.
e. Other parts of the block which require inspec­ tion
and
possible
repair,
but which are directly
related
to other
engine
components (such as tappets, pistons, camshaft, valves, crankshaft, and

oil
pump) are covered later in this section.

D-35.
Cylinder
Bores

The
cylinder bores may be reconditioned by honing
or
reboring. Use oil-soaked rags to protect
crank­

shaft
journals
and other
engine
parts from abrasive
dust during all reconditioning operations.

Both
honing and reboring of the cylinders must be
done
carefully to fit the pistons and to obtain
specified clearances. If reboring of the cylinder bores is not required but the walls are glazed, use

a
finishing
hone
to remove the glaze. Reboring the cylinders must not be attempted unless ade­
quate facilities and experienced service technicians
are
available. The amount of material to be re­moved is determined from the original diameter
of the cylinder bores (3.125" to 3.127") [79,375 a
79,426
mm.] plus the amount of oversize in diameter
of the oversize pistons to be fitted. Pistons are
available
in the following oversizes.
.010"
[0,254
mm.] .030" [0,762 mm.] .020" [0,508 mm.] .040" [1,016 mm.}

The
largest cylinder bore
will
determine the over­
size to which all cylinders must be rebored, since the size and weight of all pistons must be uniform
to maintain proper
engine
balance. The maximum rebore should not exceed .040" [1,016 mm.] from

standard.
Measure
the cylinder diameters by making mea­
surements both parallel to and at right angles to
crankshaft
over entire piston travel and at
bottom

of cylinder. Proceed as follows:

a.
If bores are scored; if out-of-round
exceeds
.005
"
[0,127 mm.]; if diameters differ more than .005";

or
if taper
exceeds
.005
"
on diameter, it is generally
recommended that cylinders be reconditioned by
reboring
and honing to the next oversize using new
pistons of the proper size.

Note:
If reboring is performed, allow .0015"
[0,0381
mm.] for final honing.

All
cylinder bore diameters must be within .002
"
[0,0508
mm.] after reconditioning.

b.
If bore measurements are within the above

limits,
but indicate hollows or waviness, cylinders should be honed with 250 grit
stone
hone. Pump
hone
up and down in cylinder while it is rotating
to produce a satin-finish, diamond cross-hatched

pattern
approximately 30° with horizontal. Hone
only enough to correct waviness.
c. If cylinder bore correction is unnecessary, break the glaze on cylinder walls with a 250 grit
stone

hone
or with a suitable deglazing tool. Operate the
hone
or deglazer to obtain diamond cross-hatched

pattern
previously mentioned.

d.
Regardless of type of correction on cylinder
walls,
wash out bores thoroughly afterwards and
apply
a light coat of
engine
oil. If cylinders have
been rebored or honed heavily, measure cylinder
diameters again to assure proper selection of piston
size.

D-36.
Pistons, Rings, and Connecting Rods
Pistons are each fitted with three rings, two com­ pression rings and one oil control
ring.
The pistons have an extra
groove
above the top ring which acts as a heat dam or insulating
groove
to protect
against sealing of the top ring in the ring
groove

with
hard
carbon. The piston pin is secured by the lock screw.

The
pistons and connecting rods were removed from
the
engine
as assemblies. If cylinders were rebored,
new oversized pistons and rings
will
have to be in­

stalled.

Disassemble the pistons and rods. Remove the
two compression rings, the oil control
ring,
and the oil control ring expander from each piston. Do not remove the
bolts
from the lower end of the
connecting rods unless the
bolts
are damaged.
Clamp
each connecting rod and piston assembly

in
a padded bench vise and remove the piston pin

lock
screw and lockwasher. Press the piston pin
out of the piston and connecting rod.
Clean
all
carbon,
gum, and lacquer
deposits
from both the

inner
and outer surfaces of each piston, connecting

rod,
and piston pin. Use a ring
groove
cleaner or a
broken
ring filed to a sharp square
edge
to clean
the carbon from the piston ring
grooves
and the

insulator
groove. Use care not to scrape metal from
the sides of the
grooves
or make
burrs
on ring
groove
surfaces. Run a length of wire through the

oil
spray
hole
near the lower end of the connecting

rod
to clear the
hole
of hardened oil
deposits
or
foreign matter.
Carefully
inspect the pistons and
replace
any that are broken or cracked. Replace
pistons if any of the ring lands are chipped, broken,
or
rounded on the
edges;
or if the piston is scored,

scratched,
or burned so seriously that the imperfec­
tions cannot be removed with a hand honing
stone

or
crocus cloth.

Replace
the pistons as follows:

a.
After cylinder bores have been carefully checked for out-of-round and taper (Par. D-35), check fit
of each piston to cylinder bore with block and
pistons clean and dry and at approximately 70
°F.
[21°C]
by using Piston Fitting Gauge And Scale

Tool
No. C-690 as shown in Fig. D-7. Use a .003"
[0,0762
mm.] thickness
gauge
%" [19 mm.] wide.

The
piston is fitted upside down in the block to
facilitate the operation. The
gauge
must extend the
full
length of the piston on the thrust side
(opposite

side from slot in piston
skirt).
Scale should register
5
to 10 pounds [2,3 a 4,5 kg.]
pull
to remove the
thickness
gauge
from
between
cylinder
wall
and piston. Excessive
pull
indicates need for a slightly

smaller
piston or additional honing of cylinder. In­ sufficient
pull
indicates need for fitting a larger piston. 47

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

FIG.
D-7—PISTON
FITTING
b.
Check
and if necessary correct connecting rod
alignment using a connecting rod aligning fixture,

such
as the one shown in Fig. D-8, in accordance
with
the instructions furnished with the fixture.

c.
Check
the piston pin fit. The piston pins are fitted
with
a clearance of .0001" to .0003" [0,0025

a
0,0076
mm.] which approximates a light thumb
push
fit at room temperature. See Fig. D-9. The piston pins are anchored in the rods with lock

screws.
Installation of oversize pins in this
engine

is not recommended as experience has shown that
should a pin be worn sufficiently to require replace­ ment, the piston should also be replaced.

Clamp
the connecting rod in a vise using
jaw
shields
of
soft
metal or two pieces of hardwood, one on
each side of the rod and positioned approximately
3" [76 mm.] from the piston pin end.
Start
,
.. . | 10278 j

FIG.
D-8—CHECKING
CONNECTING
ROD
ALIGNMENT
1
—Feeler
Gauge
2—Fixture
FIG.
D-9—PISTON PIN
FITTING

the piston pin in the piston with the lock

screw
groove
facing down. Assemble piston to connecting rod with the piston
skirt
T-slot on
FIG.
D-10—CONNECTING ROD AND
PISTON

1—
Oil
Spray
Hole

2—
Piston
Skirt
T-slot

3—
Relative
Position
of
Camshaft

48

-Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

E>
[5,928 a
5,926
cm.] for all main bearings. Allowable
taper or out-of-round of the journals is .001"
[0,0254
mm.].

D-42.
Checking Connecting Rod
Crankpins

Check
the crankpin diameters with a micrometer
to ensure that they are not out-of-round or tapered more than .001"
[0,0254
mm.] The standard
crank-

pin
diameter is
1.9383*
to
1.9375"
[4,9233
a
4,9213

cm.].
D-43.
Crankshaft
Main
Bearings

The
crankshaft rotates on three main bearings

with
a running clearance of .0003" to .0029"
[0,0076
a
0,0736
mm.].

These
bearings are positioned and prevented from
rotating in their supports in the cylinder block by
dowel pins. Dowel pins are used in both the center

and
the
rear
bearing caps. No dowel pins are used

in
the front bearing cap because the bearing has
a
flange. The front main bearing takes the end

thrust
of the crankshaft. The main bearings are of premium type which provides long bearing life.
They
are replaceable and when correctly installed, provide proper clearance without filing, boring,

scraping,
or shimming. Crankshaft bearings can
be removed from this
engine
only with the
engine

out of the vehicle. Crankshaft bearings must be replaced as a complete set of three bearings, each
bearing consisting of two halves.
Main
bearings
are
available in the standard size and the following
undersizes:
.001" [0,025mm.] .012" [0,305 mm.] .002" [0,051mm.] .020" [0,508 mm.] .010" [0,254mm.] .030" [0,762 mm.]

The
.001" and .002" undersize main bearings are
for use with standard size crankshafts having
slightly worn
journals.
The .010", .020", and .030" undersize bearings are for use with undersize

crankshafts
in
those
sizes. The .012" undersize
bearings are for use with .010" undersize
crank­
shafts having slightly worn journals. Bearing sizes

are
rubber stamped on the reverse side of each
bearing half.
D-44. Crankshaft
Main
Bearing Inspection

The
crankshaft
journals
must be carefully inspected
as detailed previously in Par. D-41. Worn journals

will
require undersize bearings. Scored, flaked, or

worn
bearings must be replaced. Measure the main
bearing bores in the cylinder block using a
telescope

gauge
and micrometer. Measure the bores at right
angles to the split line and at 45° to the split line.

The
bores should not be over .001"
[0,0254
mm.]
out-of-round or .001" in taper from end to end.

Also,
the bores should not be more then .001"
oversize, considering the average diameter of the
bore.

D-45.
Fitting Crankshaft
Main
Bearings
Using
Plastigage

After
wiping and carefully inspecting the bearing bore, install the proper bearing. See that the oil

hole
in the bearing upper half registers properly

with
the oil
hole
in the block, and that the bearing
lock fits properly in the notch in the block.
Install

the crankshaft if replacing bearings with the
engine

out of the vehicle. The desired running fit (dif­
ference
between
the diameter of the crankshaft

journal
and the inside diameter of the fitted bear­ ing) for a main bearing is .0003" to .0029"
[0,0076

a
0,0736
mm.]. With a dimension in
excess
of this
standard
running fit, a satisfactory bearing replace­ment cannot be made and it
will
be necessary to

regrind
the crankshaft.
Install
the bearing lower

half
and the bearing cap and draw the nuts down
equally and only slightly tight. Rotate the
crank­

shaft by hand to be sure it turns freely without

drag.
Pull
the nuts tighter, first one then the other,
a
little at a time, intermittently rotating the
crank­

shaft by hand until the recommended torque of
35 to 45 lb-ft. [4,8 a 6,2 kg-m.] is reached. If the
bearings are of the correct size, and lubricated with
light oil before installation, the crankshaft should
turn
freely in the bearings. If the crankshaft cannot
be turned, a larger bearing is
required.
If there is no binding or tightness, it is still necessary to check
clearance to guard against too
loose
a fit. Never file
either the bearing cap or the bearing to compensate
for too much clearance. Do not use shims under a
bearing cap or behind a bearing shell. Do not run a
new bearing half with a worn bearing half. The use
of "Plastigage" of the proper size to measure .001" [0,025 mm.] clearance is recommended for check­
ing crankshaft main bearing clearance. The method
of checking clearance is as follows:

a.
Remove the bearing cap and carefully wipe

all
oil from the bearing and the
journal.
b.
Lay a piece of "Plastigage" y%" [3 mm.]
shorter than the width of the bearing across the

journal
(lengthwise of the crankshaft).

c.
Install
the bearing and cap and tighten first
one nut, then the other, a little at a time to the specified torque. As the bearing
tightens
down

around
the
journal,
the "Plastigage" flattens to a
width that indicates the bearing clearance.

d.
Remove the cap and measure the width of
the flattened "Plastigage," using the scale printed
on the
edge
of the envelope. The proper size "Plasti­
gage"
will
accurately measure clearance down to .001".
e. If the flattened "Plastigage" tapers toward the middle, or toward the end, or both ends, there
is a difference in clearance, indicating a taper, a
low
spot,
or other irregularity of the bearing or

journal.

D-46.
Fitting Crankshaft
Main
Bearings
Using
Shim Stock

Thin
feeler or shim stock may be used instead of "Plastigage" to check bearing clearances. The
method is simple, but care must be taken to protect
the bearing metal surface from
injury
by too much pressure against the feeler stock,

a.
Cut a piece of .001" [0,025 mm.] thick, by Yl [12,7 mm.] wide, feeler stock }4" [3 mm.]
shorter than the width of the bearing. Coat this 51

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

10442

FIG.
D-l6—SHIM
STOCK
IN
POSITION
ON
MAIN
BEARING

1—0.001"
Feeler Stock H' Wide feeler stock with light
engine
oil and lay it on the

bearing
in the cap, as shown in
Fig.
D-16.
With
the

shim
in this position, install the bearing and cap
on the crankshaft.

b.
Tighten the bearing cap nuts, first one and
then the other, a little at a time to 35 to 45 lb-ft. torque [4,8 a 6,2 kg-m.].

c.
Turn
the crankshaft by hand not more than
one inch in either direction.

Caution:
Turning
the crankshaft more may imbed the shim stock in the bearing, giving a false indica­
tion of fit and damaging the bearing.

If
the bearing clearance is correct, the piece of .001"
feeler stock should produce a light to heavy drag.
If
there is little or no drag the bearing fit is too

loose.
If the crankshaft
will
not
turn
there is not
enough clearance. In either case another bearing must be selected to provide the proper fit.

d.
After the bearing has been correctly fitted, remove the shim stock, wipe the bearing and

journal
carefully and apply clean
engine
oil to the
surfaces.
Replace the cap and tighten the nuts first one, then the other, a little at a time, to the
prescribed
torque. The crankshaft should now
turn

freely without drag.
FIG.
D-l
7—CONNECTING
ROD
OFFSET
D-47.
Connecting Rod Bearings

The
connecting rod bearings, like the crankshaft
main
bearings, are of the replaceable type. When

correctly
installed, the bearings provide proper
clearance
without filing, boring, scraping, or

shimming.

Main
bearings with maximum wearing surfaces
are
obtained through the use of
offset
connecting

rods.
When the rods are installed, the
offset
"A"

in
Fig. D-l7 is placed away from the nearest main

bearing
"B".
The
oil spray
hole
should be on the "follow" side

or
away from the camshaft, toward the right side
of the vehicle. Because of the
offset
and oil spray
hole, No. 1 and 2 or No. 3 and 4 connecting rods cannot be interchanged for if they are reversed,
the oil spray
hole
will
be on the wrong side. No. 1
and
3 or No. 2 and 4 can be interchanged.

Connecting
rod bearings should be replaced as a complete set.
Each
bearing consists of two halves.

Connecting
rod bearing
sets
are available in stand­

ard
size and the following undersize:
.001" [0,025 mm.] .012" [0,305 mm.]
.002"
[0,051
mm.] .020" [0,508 mm.] .010"
[0,254
mm.] .030" [0,762 mm.]

The
.001" and .002" undersize bearings are for use

with
standard size crankshafts having slightly

worn
crankpins that do not require grinding. The .012" undersize bearings are for use with slightly

worn
crankshafts that have been previously ground for .010" undersize bearings.

Should
it be necessary to replace the bearings due to wear, replacement of piston rings and piston
pins is also recommended.

NOTE:
Should it be necessary to replace a scored

or
burned No. 1 connecting rod bearing, see Par. D-92 regarding timing gear oil jet.

D-48.
Connecting Rod Bearing Inspection

The
bearing fits may be roughly checked by shaking the connecting rod by hand,
prior
to removal of
the bearing cap, to determine if it is
loose
on the
crankshaft.
The crankpins must be carefully in­
spected as detailed previously in Par. D-41.
Worn
crankpins
will
require undersize bearings. Scored,
flaked,
or
worn bearings must be replaced.

D-49.
Installing Connecting Rod Bearings
New bearings must be installed so that the oil

spray
hole
in the upper bearing
half
aligns with
the oil spray
hole
in the connecting rod.
Each

bearing
cap must be installed to seat evenly on the connecting rod from which it was removed, and in
the same position. After wiping and carefully in­ specting the bearing bore in the connecting rod,

install
the proper bearing. Never file either the
bearing
cap or the bearing to compensate for too
much
clearance. Do not use shims under a bearing
cap or behind a bearing shell. Do not run a new

bearing
half
with a worn half.

The
desired running fit (difference
between
the diameter of the
crankpin
and the inside diameter
of the fitted bearing) for a connecting rod bearing
is .0003" to .0025"
[0,0076
a
0,0635
mm.].
With
a dimension in
excess
of this standard running fit, a 52

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

D
satisfactory bearing replacement cannot be made

and
it
will
be necessary to regrind the crankshaft.

Install
the bearing lower
half
and the connecting

rod
cap and draw the cap bolt nuts down equally
and
only slightly tight. Move the connecting rod
endwise, one way or the other, on the crankshaft to be sure the bearing is not tight.
Pull
the nuts tighter, first one then the other, a little at a time,

and
keep trying the fit of the rod on the crankshaft by hand until the recommended torque of 35 to 45 lb-ft. [4,8 a 6,2 kg-m.] is reached. If the
bearings are of the correct size, and have been
properly
lubricated with light
engine
oil before in­

stallation,
the connecting rod should be easy to
slide back and forth parallel to the
crankpin.
If
the connecting rod is tight on the crankshaft, a

larger
bearing is required. If there is no binding

or
tightness, it is
still
necessary to check clearance
to guard against too
loose
a fit. The use of "Plasti­

gage"
or shim stock of the proper size to measure .001" [0,025 mm.] clearance is recommended for

checking
connecting rod bearing clearances.
This

is the same material recommended for checking
crankshaft
main bearings and the method of check­
ing is
similar.
Refer to
Par.
D-45 or D-46. Connect­
ing rod bearings are fitted to the same clearance as the main bearings but the torque specified for con­
necting rod cap
bolts
is different.

D-50.
Connecting
Rod
Side Play

Check
the connecting rod side play with a feeler
gauge
as shown in Fig. D-l8. The side clearance is .004" to .010"
[0,101
a
0,254
mm.].

D-51.
Camshaft and Bearings

The
camshaft is supported at four points in the

cylinder
block. The front is supported in a re­ placeable, steel-shell, babbit-lined bearing. The

bearing
is pressed into place The other three bear-
FIG.
D-18—CONNECTING
ROD
SIDE
PLAY
ing surfaces are precision machined in the cylinder
block. The camshaft bearings are pressure
lubri­

cated through drilled passages in the crankcase.

End
thrust of the camshaft is taken by a thrust plate bolted to the crankcase. The camshaft is

driven
by a silent helical-cut
tooth
timing gear at
the front of the engine. A worm gear, integral with
the camshaft, drives the oil pump and distributor.

The
fuel pump is actuated by an eccentric forged

onto
the camshaft.

Clean
the camshaft thoroughly in cleaning solvent.
Inspect
all camshaft bearing surfaces to determine

if
they are scored or rough. The cam faces must be
perfectly smooth throughout their contact face

and
must not be scored or worn.

D-52.
Camshaft
Front Bearing Replacement

Use
a suitable driver to remove the camshaft front
bearing
from the cylinder block. To install a new
bearing,
align the oil
hole
in the bearing with the
bored oil
hole
in the cylinder block and drive the

bearing
in until the front end of the bearing is

flush
with the front surface of the cylinder block.

Make
sure the oil
hole
is open and clear. It is not
necessary to line-ream the bearing after installation because bearings for replacement are precision
reamed
to the finished size. Do not stake the

bearing.

D-53-
Camshaft End Play

End
play of the camshaft is determined by running
clearance
between
the
rear
face of the camshaft gear and the thrust plate and is established by the

spacer
thickness. The standard clearance is .004"
to .007"
[0,101
a 0,178 mm.] and can be measured by a
dial
indicator. As a general rule this clearance

will
change but little through wear or when a new gear is installed. To predetermine the correct end
float with the gear, spacer, and thrust plate re­
moved, measure the thickness of both the thrust
plate and spacer with a micrometer. The thickness
of the spacer should be approximately .006" [0,152 mm.] greater than that of the thrust plate.

When
this is correct and the parts are assembled

and
drawn tightly
together
by the gear retaining

screw,
the end play should
come
within standard
limits.

D-54.
Timing Gears
and
Cover

The
timing gears are mounted at the front of the
engine. Camshaft drive is through helical-cut
timing gears; a steel gear on the crankshaft and a
pressed fiber gear on the camshaft. The gears are keyed to their respective shafts. The camshaft

driven
gear is secured on the front end of the
camshaft by means of a capscrew and a plain

washer.
The crankshaft gear is secured on the
front end of the crankshaft by a nut threaded
onto
the front end of the crankshaft holding the
crank­

shaft pulley, crankshaft oil slinger, and the
crank­

shaft drive gear spacer. The timing gears are

lubricated
through a jet threaded into the
crank­
case directly above the gear contact and oil supplied
through a drilled passage from the front main

bearing.
The timing gears are enclosed by the
sealed timing cover. The oil seal in the cover bears 53

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
against the hub of the crankshaft pulley.
Timing

gears are accessible for inspection or replacement

with
the
engine
installed in the vehicle after re­ moving the radiator, belt drive pulley, and timing
cover.

Should
it be necessary to replace the timing gears, attention must be given to the end float of both
the camshaft and crankshaft and to the running

clearance
of both gears. It is also advisable to
check
both the oil jet and oil passage to the
crank­

shaft front bearing to be sure that they are clear.

D-55.
Inspection and
Repair

Check
the general condition of both gears and
inspect for evidence of excessive wear. Replace
excessively worn or damaged gears. Inspect the
cover and replace if bent or damaged. It is recom­ mended that the crankshaft oil seal in the cover
be replaced when the cover is removed to ensure a
good
seal around the crankshaft. To replace this

seal
with the
engine
in the vehicle
requires
removing
the radiator and water pump.

D-56.
Valves, Springs, and Guides

The
exhaust valves seat on the top of the cylinder

block
with the
stems
extending down through
replaceable valve guides. The exhaust valves are actuated by the camshaft through exhaust valve
tappets. The exhaust valve springs are assembled

and
locked on the lower end of the exhaust valve
stems. The retaining locks are the split type, which
fit in a recess on the valve
stems
and into the taper

in
the valve spring retainers.

Adjustment
of exhaust valves is by means of the
adjusting
screw threaded into the upper end of the
exhaust valve tappets. An exhaust valve rotator used as a valve spring retainer is installed on the
lower end of the exhaust valve.
This
valve rotator,
known
as "Roto Cap", is a spring-loaded
ball

bearing
device. On each lift, or opening stroke of
a
valve, the rotator
gives
the valve a slight positive
clockwise rotation.

The
intake valves operate in valve
guides
in the
cylinder
head and are actuated by rocker arms.

The
rocker arms are actuated by valve push rods

and
the intake valve tappets. The intake valve
springs,
the intake valve spring retainers, and the

intake
valve spring retainer locks make up the

remainder
of the valve operating parts. An intake
valve spring retainer oil seal which encircles the

upper
end of the intake valve
between
the valve
locks and the upper end of the valve spring re

tainer,
controls the passage of oil along the valve
stem and guide.

Note:
When
engine
trouble indicates defective
valves as a possible source of trouble, also check

all
vacuum line connections for possible leaks.

D-57.
Inspection of Valves, Springs,
and
Guides

Clean
the valves on a wire wheel, making sure that

all
carbon is removed from the top and the under­
side of the heads and that all gum and varnish
deposits
are removed from the stems.
Polish
the valve
stems
with steel wool or crocus

cloth.
Visually
inspect all valves for warpage,

cracks,
or excessive burning and discard if one of

these
conditions exists. Replace any worn, pitted,

or
corroded valves that cannot be cleaned with a
wire
brush.
Replace any valves when
seats
are pitted, burned, or corroded so badly that they
cannot be cleaned up with a light refacing on a valve refacing machine.

Replace
valves with marks of scoring or abrasion visible on the stem. Replace any valves with bent

stems
which
will
be apparent when the valve is
mounted in the valve refacing machine.

Note:
Use only hard-face exhaust valves for
replacement.

Examine
the
stems
of valves which employ the
ball
bearing rotators.
Wear
marks around the
cir­

cumference of the
stems
indicates that the valve is
rotating satisfactorily.
Vertical
heavy pressure

areas
indicate that the valve is not rotating and the valve spring retainer (Roto
Cap)
should be replaced

if
at fault.
Check
the diameter of the valve stem at two or three places along the length of the stem

with
a micrometer. The intake valve stem diameter is .3733" to .3738" [9,482 a
9,495
mm.]. The
exhaust valve stem diameter is .371" to .372"
[9,423
a
9,449
mm.].

Note:
Exhaust
and intake valve springs are

similar
in appearance. They must not be inter­
changed as they have different spring
charac­

teristics.

Wash
the valve springs thoroughly in solvent.

Visually
examine the springs and replace any that

are
deformed or obviously damaged. Examine for

corrosion
from moisture or acid etching which might
FIG.
D-19—TESTING
VALVE
SPRING

1—
Torque
Wrench

2—
Spring
Testing
Fixture

3—
Valve
Spring
54

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

FIG.
D-2
2—REFACING
VALVES
1—
Valve
Refacer

2—
Valve
a
dial
indicator as shown in
Fig.
D-21 after refacing.

The
valve seat should not be out of round more

than
.002"
[0,051
mm.]. A simple check can be
made in the absence of a
dial
indicator by spreading
a
thin coat of pencil lead or bearing-fitting blue on
the valve face and then inserting the valve into the valve seat.
With
hand pressure, rotate the valve

a
quarter
turn
and then remove the valve and ob­
serve the transfer of blue (or pencil lead) to the valve seat. An uneven transfer
will
indicate an

inaccurate
valve and valve seat refacing operation.

After
the seat is ground, check its width with a
seat width scale or a steel scale placed across the
face of the seat. The valve seat width after refacing
should measure [2,3 mm.] and not wider than
y%"
[3,2 mm.]. Valve seat width is
vital.
Too wide

a
seat can cause seat burning as it
tends
to trap

and
hold carbon particles. Seats that are too
narrow

will
not transfer heat to the coolant rapidly enough to keep the valves in proper operating condition.

When
a valve seat has been refaced several times

or
where it must be cut deeply for adequate recon­
ditioning, the seat may
become
too wide for efficient
operation. Narrow the seat without changing its
position in relation to the valve face by using a
valve seat relief counterbore above the seat and a valve seat narrowing cutter below the seat. These
operations are performed only after the valve
seats
have been refaced and then only when necessary.

The
finished valve seat should contact the approxi­mate center of the valve face.
Check
by applying

an
extremely thin coat of pencil lead or bearing-
fitting blue to the seat.
Then
install and rotate the
valve with light pressure. Blue (or pencil
marks)

will
transfer to the face of the valve. If the blue
is near the top
edge
of the valve face, lower the valve seat by using the valve seat relief counter-
bore. If the blue is transferred to the
bottom
edge

of the valve face, raise the seat by using the valve
seat narrowing cutter.

When
the valve seat can no longer be corrected, it
is advisable to investigate installing seat inserts.

D-60.
Exhaust
Valve Seat Insert Replacement

Hardened
valve seat inserts for exhaust valves
will

seldom require replacement. To avoid damaging the blcck, remove an insert with a tool designed for
this purpose.

When
installing a new insert, make certain the
counterbore is clean and smooth. Use a driver that

will
keep the insert in true alignment with the bore.

Cool
the insert and the installing tool with dry ice
for 30 minutes.

Note:
The insert should be sufficiently cooled
to permit installation with light taps; excessive

driving
of the insert may cock it in the counterbore

or
crack the insert.

Make
certain the valve seat is facing out.
Drive

in
the insert with the tool until it
bottoms
in the counterbore. After installation, grind the valve
seat at an angle of 45° and then check with a
dial

indicator
as shown in Fig. D-21.
D-61.
Valve Guide Replacement

Damaged,
loose,
or worn valve
guides
must be re­

placed.
Use valve guide driver W-238 or equivalent
to drive out the old guides. When replacing valve
guides, maximum
engine
performance can be se­

cured
only when the guide is positioned correctly
FIG.
D-23—VALVE
GUIDE
DRIVER

FIG.
D-24—VALVE
GUIDE
POSITIONS

1—Flush
at
this
point
2—One
Inch
[25
mm.
I

56

'Jeep5
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
Driver
W-238 is equipped
with
an
adapter
ring

which
correctly positions the guides. See Fig. D-23. Start a new exhaust valve guide, blunt (nontapered)
end
first,
into
the valve guide bore in the top of the cylinder block. When properly positioned, the
top end of the guide is exactly
1
"
[25,4 mm.] below
the level of the top of the block as shown in Fig.
D-24.
Start
a new intake valve guide, tapered end
first, into position from the
bottom
of the cylinder

head.
When properly positioned, the end of the
guide is just flush with the end of the valve guide
bore in the cylinder head as shown in Fig. D-24.

Run
a reamer (Tool
C-3 8)
through the new
guides

after they have been correctly positioned.

D-62. Tappets
and
Cover

The
valve tappets are lubricated through oil troughs cast in the crankcase. The troughs are
filled by oil sprayed from the connecting rod ends

and
passages are drilled through the tappet
guides
to
carry
the oil to the tappets. A
groove
around the center of the tappet shank carries the oil up and down the guide.

Check
the threads and fit of the exhaust valve ad­

justing
screw in the exhaust valve tappets. The fit of a screw should be such that a wrench is required to
turn
it into or out of the tappet as
these
are of
the self-locking type. Replace the worn part, either
the screw or the tappet, or both, if there is
loose­

ness
between
the parts.
D-63.
Crankshaft Rear Bearing Seal

Oil
leakage through the
rear
main bearing is pre­ vented by a metal supported neoprene lip type

seal
which can readily be installed without remov­
ing the crankshaft.

Should
trouble be experienced with oil leaking

from
the
rear
main bearing there are several points

which
should be checked.

a.
Be sure that the identifying paint daub on the
bearing
cap is the same as that appearing on the
center bearing web.

b.
The bearing to crankshaft clearance must not
exceed .0029"
[0,0736
mm.].

c.
Place sealer on the faces of the
rear
bearing cap

from
the
rear
oil
groove
to the oil seal grooves.

d-
Be sure the rubber oil seals extend about 34" [6 mm.] below the
bottom
face of the cap.

e.
Be sure the oil pan gasket is not leaking.
f.
Check
to be sure the oil leak is not at the cam­
shaft
rear
bearing expansion plug or from the
crankcase.

D-64.
Floating Oil
Intake •
Refer to Fig. D-25 and D-26.

The
floating oil intake is attached to the
bottom

of the crankcase with two screws. The float and
screen causes it to ride, raise and lower with the
amount of oil in the pan.
This
prevents water or
dirt,
which
may have accumulated in the
bottom

of the oil pan, from circulating through the
engine

because the oil is drawn horizontally from the top

surface.
Whenever removed, the float, screen, and
tube should be cleaned thoroughly to remove any
accumulation
of
dirt.
Also clean the oil pan.

Fluctuating
oil pressure can usually be traced to

an
air leak
between
the oil float support and the

crankcase.

Be
sure the float support flange is flat.
Clean
both
the flange and the crankcase surfaces thoroughly
before installing a new gasket. Be sure the retaining
screws are tight.
D-65. Oil
Pump

The
oil pump is located externally on the left side
of the engine. In operation oil is drawn from the

crankcase
through the floating oil intake then passes through a drilled passage in the crankcase
to the pump from which it is forced through

drilled
passages to the crankshaft and camshaft
bearings. When it is necessary to remove an oil
pump,
first remove the distributor cover and
note
the position of the distributor rotor so that the pump may be reinstalled without disturbing the
ignition timing. To install the pump without dis­

turbing
the timing, the pump gear must be cor­

rectly
meshed with the camshaft driving gear to
allow
engagement
of the key on the distributor shaft with the pump shaft slot, without changing the position of the distributor rotor. Distributor
can
be installed only in one position as the slot and

driving
key are machined off-center.

The
oil pump consists of an inner and outer rotor

within
the pump body. An oil relief valve is mounted in the pump body which controls the oil

pressure.
To disassemble the pump, Fig. D-27, first remove the gear which is retained by straight

pin.
It
will
be necessary to file off one end of the
pin
before driving it out with a small drift. By re­
moving the cover the outer rotor and the inner

rotor
and shaft may be removed through the cover opening.
Failure
of the pump to operate at

full
efficiency may usually be traced to excessive
end float of the rotors or excessive clearance be­ tween the rotors. The clearance
between
the outer

rotor
and the pump body should also be checked.
Match
the rotors
together
with one
lobe
of the inner

rotor
pushed as far as possible into the notch of the outer rotor. Measure the clearance
between
the

lobes
of the rotors as shown in
Fig.
D-28.
This
clear­ ance should be .010"
[0,254
mm.] or less.
If
more, replace both rotors. Measure the clearance

between
the outer rotor and the pump body as
shown in Fig. D-29. Should this clearance exceed .012" [0,305 mm.] the fault is probably in the
pump body and it should be replaced. End float
of the rotors is controlled by the thickness of the cover gasket which is made of special material that

can
be only slightly compressed. Never use other

than
a standard factory gasket.
Check
the cover
to be sure the inner surface is not rough or scored

and
that it is flat within .001" [0,025 mm.]
tested

with
feeler
gauges,
Fig. D-30. Measure thickness of
the rotors which must be within .001" [0,025 mm.]
of each other. Assemble the rotors in the pump body and install the cover without the gasket.
When
the cover screws are tightened to normal
tension, there should be interference
between
the
rotors and the cover making it impossible to
turn
the pump shaft by hand. Remove the cover and re- 57