1953 JEEP CJ service

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

The
purpose of caster Fig. O-S, is to provide steer­
ing stability which
will
keep the front wheels in the
straight
ahead position and also assist in straighten­
ing up the wheels when coming out of a
turn.
Caster
of the front wheels is preset. If the angle of

caster,
when accurately measured, is found to be

incorrect,
correct it to the specification given at
the end of this section by either installing new

parts
or installing caster shims
between
the axle

pad
and the springs.

If
the camber and toe-in are correct and it is known
the the axle is not twisted, a satisfactory check

may
be made by testing the vehicle on the road.
Before road testing, make sure all tires are properly

inflated,
being particularly careful that both front
tires are inflated to exactly the same pressure.
If
vehicle turns easily to either side but is
hard
to
straighten out, insufficient caster for easy handling of vehicle is indicated. If correction is necessary, it

can
usually be accomplished by installing shims

between
the springs and axle pads to secure the
desired
result.
0-11-
Front
Wheel
Turning
Angle
When
the front wheels are turned, the inside wheel
on the
turn
travels in a smaller circle than the out­side wheel, therefore, it is necessary for the wheels
to toe out to prevent the tire on the inside wheel

frOm
being scuffed sideways.
This
angle for toe out
on turns is designed to permit both front wheels to

turn
on a common center by having the ends of the
steering
knuckle
arms closer
together
than the king­

pins.

To
avoid possible damage to the universal joints
on the front axles of 4-wheel drive vehicles, it is advisable to check the turning angle.
Wearing
away
of the upset
edge
on the spindle housing bolt which
10607

FIG.
0-6—TURNING
ANGLE
STOP
SCREW
1—Stop
Screw
contacts the
stop
screw
will
increase the turning
angle to the point where the universal joints may
be damaged.

The
Jeep Universal Series vehicles should have a

turning
angle of not more than 27^° both left and

right.
To adjust the
stop
screw, it is necessary to

loosen
the locknut holding the
stop
screw. When
the adjustment has been made, tighten the locknut
on the screw to prevent any movement. Refer to
Fig.
O 6.

The
left steering knuckle arm controls the relation­
ship of the front wheels on a left
turn
and the right
arm
controls the relation on a right
turn.

0-12. Steering
Knuckle
Arm

Should
a steering knuckle arm
become
bent, the

knuckle
housing must be replaced. It is not safe to
straighten the knuckle arm.
0-13.
Front
Wheel
Shimmy
Wheel
shimmy may be caused by various condi­
tions in the wheels, axle or steering system, or a
combination of
these
conditions. Outlined below

will
be found the usual corrections of this fault:

a.
Equalize
tire pressures and see that they are
according
to specifications.

b.
Check
the wheel bearings for
looseness.
Be sure
that the inner wheel bearing race is not too
loose
on the spindle.

c.
Remove both steering knuckles and carefully inspect the upper and lower king pin bearings.

Inspect
the bearing cups for evidence of brinelling,
pitting, or fretting. Any bearings that show the slightest imperfection must be
replaced.
Reassemble

and
lubricate the front axle and steering linkage,
installing
new steering knuckle oil seals if present
seals show any wear.

d.
With
full
weight on the front wheels and one

man
working the steering play with the steering
wheel, a second man should closely observe the steering bell
crank
for any rocking motion and the
double tie rod socket for any rocking motion or

looseness
at both points. Replace the complete bell
crank
assembly if it has even the slightest rocking motion. The same applies to the double tie rod
socket.
e.
Check
wheel run-out.
This
check should include
radial
run-out and wheel
looseness
on the hub.
f- Test wheel balance—check for blowout patches,
uniform
tire tread, vulcanized tires, mud on inside
of wheels, and tires creeping on the
rims.

g.
Try
switching front wheels and tires to the
rear,
criss-crossing
them in this operation.

h.
Check
for front
spring
sag. Also check for broken

spring
leaves, broken center
spring
bolt,
loose
spring

clips
(or tight clips), over-lubrication of spring leaves, spring shackle bracket
loose
on frame, and

loose
rear
spring shackle. Be sure that the shock
absorbers
are operating properly to eliminate bob­bing of the front end.

i.
Check
brakes to make sure that one
does
not

drag.

j.
Check
the steering assembly and steering con­ necting rod.
This
includes the up-and-down-play
of the steering worm shaft, end play of the cross 317

o

STEERING
SYSTEM
10

FIG.
0-7—STEERING
CONNECTING
ROD
(DRAG
LINK)
10696

1—Cotter Pin

2>—Large
Plug

3—
Ball
Seat

4—
Ball
Seat Spring 5—
Spring
Plug
shaft,
tightness
of the steering gear in the frame,

tightness
of steering gear arm, adjustment of the
steering connecting rod and condition of the steer­ ing tie rod
ball
joint ends. Adjust the steering con­
necting rod (drag
link)
to maximum safe
tightness

at both ends. Examine the steering beilcrank bearings, the shaft in the mounting bracket, and
the mounting bracket on the frame cross member,
k.
Check
front axle caster.
This
should be the same
on both sides, otherwise a locking brake may be

indicated
causing a twisting action of the axle.
Correct
caster is shown in specifications at the end
of this section.

I.
Check
the front wheel toe-in. See Specifications,

m.
Check
wheel
toe-out
on turns.
This
gives
you

an
indication of the proper angularity of the steer­
ing knuckle arms and tells whether or not they have been bent and require replacing. These may be checked by comparing them with new parts. If

an
arm is bent, check for a bent tie rod.
n.
Check
wheel camber.
This
should be the same
on both wheels as shown on the Specifications,

o.
Check
the king pin inclination. See Specifica­ tions.

p.
Check
the tracking of the front axle and frame
alignment, which may be incorrect due to an accident.

0-14.
STEERING
LINKAGE
SERVICE
The
steering linkage must maintain constant toe-
in
and
good
steering control under all driving
conditions.
This
requires
ball
joints at each end
of the tie rods and steering connecting rod. All
joints in the steering linkage must be kept well
lubricated
for easy operation and long life. Should
the joints be worn, allowing excessive free motion
in
the linkage, the joints must be replaced. When­
ever
ball
joints are replaced, toe-in must be reset. Because
some
members of the steering system may
have
become
bent or distorted, a periodic inspection
should be made.
0-15.
Steering Connecting
Rod
(Drag
Link)

The
steering connecting rod is of the
ball
and socket
type. All
ball
seat springs and adjusting plugs are 6—
-Dust
Cover

7—
Dust
Shield
8—
Small
Adjusting Plug
9—
Lubrication
Fitting
10—Connecting Rod

identical,
the only difference
between
front and
rear
end being the relative location of the springs.

The
correct assembly of the steering connecting
rod
is shown in Fig. 0-7. At the front or axle end,
the spring and spacer are assembled
between
the
rod
and
ball
seat, while at the steering gear end,
spring
and spacer are
between
the
ball
seat and the
end plug. In the illustration the front end is to the left.

When
removing springs and
seats
for any reason,
make
sure they are reassembled as shown in the

illustration
because this method of assembly re­
lieves road shock from the steering gear in both di­
rections. To adjust the
ball
joint, screw in the plug

firmly
against the
ball,
approximately 20 ft. lb. [2,8 kg-m.] then back off one quarter
turn
and lock

with
a new cotter pin inserted through
holes
in the
tube and the slot in the adjusting plug. To adjust the
ball
joint at the steering gear arm, screw in the end plug firmly against the
ball,
then back off one

full
turn
and lock with a new cotter pin inserted
through
holes
in the tube and the slot in the ad­

justing
plug.

The
above adjustments
will
give
the proper spring
tension and avoid any
tightness
when swinging
the wheel from maximum left to right
turn.
The
ball
joints must be tight enough to prevent end

play
and yet
loose
enough to allow free movement.
0-16. Tie Rod
The
tie rods are of three piece construction con­sisting of the rod and two
ball
and socket end as­ semblies.
Ball
and socket end assemblies are
threaded into each rod and locked with clamps,

around
each end of the rod. Right and left hand threads on tie rod end assemblies provide toe-in adjustments without removing the tie rod ends from
the steering arm.

'Jeep'
Universal models are equipped with a

divided
tie rod connected to a bell-crank mounted
on the frame cross member.
With
this type con­

struction
the toe-in of each wheel is adjusted in­
dependently. See heading "Toe-in adjustment".

When
wear takes place in the tie rod end
ball
and socket, it
will
be necessary to replace the
ball
and socket assembly and also the rubber seal. 318

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
©—P3
10789

FIG.
0-8—STEERING TIE ROD
1—
Cotter
Pin 6—Lockwasher

2—
Nut 7—Left Tie Rod

3—
Dust
Cover
8—Lubrication
Fitting
4—
Left
Socket 9—Left Socket (For Right Tie Rod) 5— Nut 10—Right Tie Rod 11—
Right
Socket

12—
Bolt

13— Tie
Rod
Clamp

0-17.
Tie Rod
Removal
First
disconnect and remove the steering tie rod

from
the bellcrank. Refer to Fig. O-l. The tie
rod
can then be removed by removing the cotter
pins and
nuts
at the
ends.
To remove the tie rod

from
the steering knuckle arms, use a puller or
expansion
fork.
Then
separate
the
joint
seals
and
fittings,
if
necessary.
The tie rod
sockets
can be
removed by loosening the
nuts
on the clamp bolts
and unscrewing the
sockets
from
the tie rod
tubes.

Refer to Fig. 0-8. When installing the
components

of
the steering linkage, new
seals
should be in­ stalled as
necessary.
All
nuts
should be torqued 38
to 42
lb-ft.
{5,2 a 5,8
kg-m.],
and new cotter pins
installed.
If the bellcrank was removed, the
steer­

ing
bellcrank nut should be torqued 70 to 90
lb-ft.
[9,7
a 12,4
kg-m.].

0-18.
Steering
Bellcrank
Service
Refer to Fig. 0-9.
The
assembly
and adjustment of this unit is ex­
tremely important; the information outlined below must be
followed
carefully whenever servicing the
bellcrank
assembly
on late model vehicles.
A
service kit
Part
No. 991381 containing the
bell­

crank shaft, bearings,
seals,
bolt, nuts, and
washer
is
available for servicing this
assembly.
Be certain that all
parts
are installed in their proper position.
When assembling the parts, be
sure
the new
bear­

ings in the bellcrank are positioned
Y%"
[3,175 mm.]
below the
surface
of the bellcrank
face
as shown. The
bearings
have
a
light
press"
fit that
will
hold
them in
place
after locating them in the proper
position.
Finally, when installing
washers,
the
chamfer on the
washer
must be installed toward
the bellcrank.

After
completing the
assembly,
and before attach­

ing
the connecting
rods
to the bellcrank levers,
make
your
final
adjustment to the
assembly
as

follows:

a.
With
the W [11,113 mm.] diameter clamp bolt
loosened, adjust the locknut on the end of the
bell­
crank shaft
until
the bellcrank just
rotates
freely

without
a bind.

Note:
On early model vehicles using bellcrank kit

Part
No. 920556, torque the bellcrank shaft nut
(Fig.
O-l #14) 70 - 90
lb-ft.
[9,7 a 12,4
kg-m.].
319

STEERING
SYSTEM

FIG.
0-9—STEERING

BELLCRANK
ASSEMBLY

1— 5s'-18
Stollock
Lockout

2—
Plain
Washer

3— 7 us"-20
x
2 l2' Bolt

4—
71«
*-20
Stollock
Locknut
5—
Beilcrank
Support

6—
Special
Ground
Washer
7— Seal
8—
Bearing
9— Beilcrank
10— Beilcrank
Shaft

11—
Seals

12—
Bearings

13— } s *
b.
Torque the
Vfc"
[11,113
mm.] diameter elamp
bolt to
50-70
lb-ft. [6,9 a 9,7 kg-m.].

c.
Assemble the tie rod to the beilcrank lever,
making
sure to tighten the nut to the proper
torque value of 38 to 45 lb-ft. [5,2 a 6,2 kg-m.].

d.
Connect the drag
link
to the beilcrank arm,

adjust
the
ball
joint by screwing in the plug firmly against the
ball,
approximately 20 lb-ft. [2,8 kg-m.], then back off one quarter
turn
and lock

with
a new cotter pin.

0-19.
Beilcrank
Support
Bracket
Rivet
Replacement

The
procedure for replacing a rivet with a bolt
is as follows:

a.
Drill
a [4,76 mm.] pilot
hole
up through
the front rivet.

b.
Enlarge
the [4,76 mm.]
hole
with a %"
[8,73 mm.]
drill.

c.
Chisel
off the
bottom
rivet head and drive the

remainder
of the rivet upward and out, using
a
punch and hammer.

d.
Install
a %" [9,53 mm.] bolt and lock nut,
torque to
30-45
lb-ft. [4,1 a 6,2 kg-m] and stake
the nut.

e.
Clamp
a metal plate to the frame to protect
the radiator, then
drill
and remove the remaining two rivets, install bolts, lock nuts and torque as
specified.

O-20.
STEERING
COLUMN
AND
WHEEL SERVICE

Jeep
Universal
Series vehicles use a
one-piece
steer­
ing
shaft that is integral with the steering gear
assembly, as shown in Fig. 0-2. Alignment in­
structions in paragraph 0-4 apply.

0-21.
Steering
Wheel Removal •
Refer to Fig. 0-2.

a.
Carefully
pry the rubber horn cap from the housing slot.
b.
Remove steering shaft nut.

c.
Remove steering wheel and spring.

0-22.
STEERING GEAR SERVICE

Note:
The steering gear can be adjusted when the
gear is mounted in the vehicle by first disconnecting
the drag
link
from the steering arm. Refer to Par.
Q-5.
0-23.
Removal
of
Steering Gear
•
F4-Engine.

a.
Remove the directional signal unit from the steering column.

b.
Remove the steering column bracket attached
at the instrument panel.

c.
Remove upper section of the floor pan.

d.
Disconnect shift rods from the shift levers at
lower end of the steering column if applicable.

e.
Disconnect the horn wire at lower end of steer­
ing
gear assembly.

f.
Remove steering gear arm from the steering gear assembly.

g.
Remove
bolts
attaching the steering gear hous­
ing
to the frame.

h.
Remove the steering gear assembly by bringing

it
up through the floor pan opening.

•
V6 Engine.

a.
Remove oil pan
skid
plate.

b.
Remove
left
exhaust pipe.

c.
Disconnect connecting rod (drag
link)
from
steering gear arm.

d.
Disconnect steering gear assembly from frame.

e.
Remove steering wheel from steering column.
f. Disconnect accelerator linkage.
g.
Remove upper floor pan assembly.
h.
Disconnect directional signal switch.
i.
Jack-up
vehicle, and remove steering gear and
320

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

O
column assembly down through the floor pan open­
ing and out from under vehicle.
0-24.
Disassembly
of
Steering
Gear
Refer
to Fig. 0-2.

When
the steering gear arm is installed on early
production vehicles, the line across the face of the

arm
and the end of the shaft should be in align­ ment. On later production vehicles, blind splines
on the lever shaft and in the steering gear arm en­

sure
correct positioning of the arm.

a.
Remove the steering gear arm with a puller
C-3646.

Caution:
Do not use a hammer or
wedge
to re­
move
the steering arm from the shaft and lever.

This
can cause damage to the shaft assembly.

b.
Loosen the lock nut and unscrew the adjusting

screw
two turns.

c.
Remove the side cover screws and washers. Re­
move
the side cover and gasket.

d.
Remove lever shaft.

e.
Remove upper cover plate screws. Remove cam,
wheel tube, and bearing assembly from the housing.
f.
Clean
all parts with suitable cleaning solvent and wipe dry.

g.
After dismantling as outlined above is com­
pleted, inspect cam
grooves
for wear, chipping and
scoring,
also the
ball
races on the cam ends and the
separate
ball
cups. Existence of any of
these
condi­ tions indicates the necessity for parts replacement.

h.
Inspect the tapered stud mounted on the lever
shaft for flat
spots
and chipping. In the case of
either, replacement is usually advisable. Inspect the
lever shaft for wear and
test
the fit of the shaft in
the bushings.

i.
Inspect condition of the oil seal at outer end of
lever shaft and the bearing at top end of steering
column.

0-25.
Reassembly
of
Steering
Gear
e Refer to Fig. 0-2.
Reassemble all parts to wheel tube in reverse order
of dismantling. Assemble cam, wheel tube and
bearing
assembly in housing, seating the lower

bearing
ball
cup in the housing.
Note:
New plastic retainer type cam bearings are
now available for the Ross steering gears. The new
bearings replace, and are interchangeable with,
the lock ring type cam bearings on gears equipped

with
early type cams.
With
adjusting shims in place, assemble upper
cover and adjust the cam bearings.
Assemble lever shaft in housing and with gasket
in
place assemble the side cover and set adjusting

screw
for a minimum backlash of the studs in the
cam
groove, with the steering gear at the center
point of travel.
When
assembling upper bearing spring and spring
seat in jacket tube make sure that the spring seat
is positioned correctly. It must be installed with
the lengthwise flange down against the bearing and
not up inside of spring coil.

0-26.
Installation
of
Steering
Gear

a.
After the gear has been properly adjusted, as
outlined in Par. 0-5, install steering gear assembly
in
chassis in the reverse order in which it was re­
moved.

b.
After installing the assembly in the vehicle,

jack
up front of vehicle and place the front wheels
in
the straight ahead position.

c.
Temporarily install the steering wheel to locate
the mid-position of the steering gear. To locate the mid-position,
turn
the steering wheel as far to the

right
as possible and then
turn
in the
opposite
di­

rection
as far as possible, noting the total number
of turns.
Turn
the wheel back just ^ of the total movement to place the gear in mid-position.

d.
With
the steering gear in mid-position and the
wheels in the straight ahead position install steer­ ing gear arm on lever shaft with the
ball
end down.

When
installed the line across the face of the arm

and
end of shaft should be in alignment.

0-27.
Steering
Wheel
Installation
•
Refer to Fig. 0-2.

a.
Install
steering wheel and spring on shaft.

Align
scribe marks on shaft and hub of wheel.
b.
Install
steering shaft nut and torque 20 to 25
lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,4 kg-m.].

c.
Install
horn cap. Test horn.
321

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

P
BRAKES

SUBJECT
PAR

GENERAL.
. P-l
Brake
Maintenance P-5
Master
Cylinder.
P-2

Parking
Brake
P-3
Transmission
Brake
P-4

BRAKE SERVICE
.P-6 Bleeding Brakes P-7

Brake
Adjustments P-14

Brake
Hoses P-8

Brake
Shoe
Initial
Adjustment P-l9

Brake
Shoe Installation P-l8

Brake
Pedal Adjustment P-9

Hand
Brake.
P-10 Inspection P-17
SUBJECT
PAR

Brake
Shoe Removal P-l6

Master
Cylinder Reconditioned. . P-20

Parking
Brake
Adjustment
.P-l 1
Relining
Transmission
Brake
P-13

Relining
Wheel
Brake
P-l5

Transmission
Brake
Adjustment .P-12

Wheel
Brake
Units P-14

Wheel
Cylinder Reconditioning P-21

TROUBLESHOOTING
P-2 2 Squeaky Brakes P-23
Rattles in Brakes P-24

SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS.
P-25

SPECIFICATIONS
P-2 6

P-1. GENERAL
A
double-safety
hydraulic brake system in con­
junction with self-adjusting wheel brake units are
standard
equipment on all current production
'Jeep* vehicles. The
double-safety
brake system
Is
equipped with dual
stop
light switches that op­
erate independently of each other, thus eliminating
possible
stop
light failure. Service information for
self adjusting brakes starts with Par. P-14.
All
four-wheel-drive vehicles are equipped with a transmission brake that operates in the drive line

and
is mounted to the rear of the transfer case. Two-wheel-drive vehicles
(DJ-5,
DJ-6)
are equipped
with a hand-operated parking brake that operates at the rear wheels.

P-2.
Master Cylinder —
Double Safety-Brake System

The
master cylinder (cast integrally with the res­

ervoir)
is the compensating type. Refer to Fig.
P-2 and P-13.
Action by the brake pedal
moves
the master cylin­der piston which exerts pressure on the fluid in
the cylinder and lines. 12914

FIG.
P-l—DOUBLE SAFETY BRAKE SYSTEM —
LATE
MODELS 1— Stop Light Switch and Tee (Froat)
2—
Line
Tee (Front)

3—
Master
Cylinder (Dual System
4—
Brake
Pedal Assembly 5—
Brake
Hose
6—
Line
Tee
(Rear)
7—
Wheel
Cylinder (Left
Rear)

8— Proportioning Valve
(Early
Models)
9— —Stop Light Switch and Tee
(Rear)

10—
Wheel
Cylinder (Left Front)
11—
Front
Brake
Hoses
323

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

P The
standard parking brakes (Fig. P-3) consist of
cable-controlled linkage for applying the rear wheel

brake
shoes
mechanically. A single cable from the

parking
brake control lever is connected, by means of an equalizer, to cables leading to individual rear

brakes.
A lever attached to the secondary
shoe,

with a link acting against the
primary
shoe,
expands the
shoes
into
contact with the drums.
P-4.
Transmission Brake

The
transmission brake is mechanically operated
by a hand lever through a cable and conduit and is mounted at the rear output bearing housing on the
transfer case. The transmission brake and its
linkage are shown in Fig. P-4.
P-5.
Brake Maintenance
No brake can be
expected
to work well when grease
or oil is allowed to leak
into
the drum from the rear axle. Little braking friction can be obtained

between
brakes and drums when the surface is
covered with grease and oil. For this reason, take
care
not to over-lubricate wheel bearings, forcing

lubricant
past seals. Also, check condition of seals

if
leak is suspected or whenever brake drums

are
pulled.
Whenever
wheels
are removed, it is advisable to
wash the drums with a suitable solvent so that all
grease and dirt are removed. Linings with any
evidence of grease or oil on them should be replaced.
The
hydraulic system should be kept free of dirt

and
moisture.
Use only SAE standard J-1703 Hydraulic
Brake
Fluid.

Caution:
Keep mineral oils, gasoline, or kerosene
out of the system as
they
cause rubber cups to

soften,
swell, and distort, resulting in failure.
P-6.
Brake
Service

To
service the brakes,
follow
the procedure
below:

a.
Check the fluid level in the brake master cylin­
der.
See Lubrication Section, Par. B-40.
b. Check brake pedal adjustment. See Par. P-9.
c. Check brake pedal travel. If the pedal travels more than halfway to the floor, the brake system
must be checked and the self adjusting star wheel mechanisms checked for binding, also the brake
linings should be inspected as
they
may be badly

worn.
How much lining is
left
can only be deter­ mined by visually inspecting the linings. See Par.
P-l6 for relining brakes.

d.
If the brakes pull to one side after adjustment, check tire pressures. All tires must be inflated to recommended pressures to ensure even braking. If
the condition persists, examine the brake linings
for foreign material and clean as necessary. If clean­
ing
does
not correct the condition the linings should be replaced. If the side pull persists, check front
wheel alignment and balance.
e. Check the brake system for leaks by applying a steady pressure on the brake pedal. A leak in the
system
will
allow the pedal to "fall away". If the pedal "falls away" check for a leaking wheel cylin­
der.
Remove
wheels
and drums and carefully check
each cylinder. Also examine all lines and fittings.

Rebuild
or replace all wheel cylinders (Par. P-21)

if
one is
defective
as
they
are all probably in poor condition. If the leak has allowed brake fluid to get
on the linings, the linings
will
have to be replaced.
f. A
"spongy"
brake pedal indicates the pressure of air in the hydraulic system.
This
condition must
be corrected by bleeding the brakes. See Par. P-7.
g. Should the brakes
become
locked so that the vehicle cannot be moved, the brakes may be re­
leased by opening the bleeder screw on any one of the wheel cylinders. Before the vehicle is driven, correct the cause of the condition. The cause may
3
14 15 16 17 18
4
10796

1—
Cable
and Conduit
2—
Hand
Brake
Clip

3—
Hand
Brake
Bracket
4—
Hand
Brake
Handle Assembly 5—
Rear
Cap
6—
Drive
Gear
Bushing
7—
Driven
Gear

8—
Driven
Gear
Sleeve
FIG.
P-4—TRANSMISSION
BRAKE

9—Backing
Plate
10— Shoe and
Lining

11—
Lever
End Return Spring
12—
Brake
Drum
13— Bolt 14—
Rear
Companion Flange
15—
Washer

16— Nut 17— Propeller Shaft Flange Yoke
18—
Rear
Propeller Shaft
19—
Adjusting
End Spring
20—
Adjusting
Screw Bracket
21—
Operating
Lever

22—
Clevis

23—
Retracting
Spring
Clip

24—
Retracting
Spring
Link
325

p

BRAKES
be either a defective master cylinder or the use of
low grade brake fluid which has expanded because
of heat. Use standard duty brake fluid conforming to
SAE-J1703
specification.

P-7.
Bleeding
Brakes

The
hydraulic
brake system must be bled whenever

a
fluid line has been disconnected or air
gets
into the system. A leak in the system may sometimes
be indicated by the presence of a spongy brake
pedal.
Air trapped in the system is compressible

and
does
not permit the pressure, applied to the
brake
pedal, to be transmitted solidly through to
the brakes. The system must be absolutely free
from
air at all times. When bleeding brakes, bleed
at that wheel with the
longest
line from the master
FIG.
P-5—BLEEDING
BRAKES

1—Bleeder
Screw
cylinder
first, the next
longest
second, etc. During
the bleeding operation the master cylinder must
be kept at least %
full
of hydraulic brake fluid.

To
bleed the brakes, first carefully clean all
dirt

from
around the master cylinder filler plug. If
bleeder tank is used follow the manufacturers in­
structions.
Remove the filler plug and
fill
the master
cylinder
to the lower
edge
of filler neck.
Clean
off

all
bleeder connections at all four wheel cylinders.

Attach
bleeder
hose
and fixture to right
rear
wheel

cylinder
bleeder screw and place end of tube in a
glass jar, and submerged in brake fluid. Open the bleeder valve one-half to three-quarters of a
turn.

See
Fig.
P-5.
Depress the
foot
pedal, allowing it to return very
slowly. Continue this pumping action to force the
fluid
through the line and out of the bleeder
hose
which
carries with it any air in the system. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder
hose, close the bleeder valve and remove the hose.
After
the bleeding operation at each wheel cylinder
has been completed,
fill
the master cylinder reser­
voir
and replace the filler plug.
Do not re-use the liquid which has been removed

from
the lines through the bleeding process because
of air bubbles and
dirt.

P-8.
Brake Hoses

a.
Hydraulic
lines (tubing and hose) are the means
of transmitting fluid under pressure between the master cylinder and the wheel cylinders.

Note:
On
some
vehicles a proportioning valve is
located in the
rear
brake line along the inside left
frame
side
rail.
The valve is not serviceable and
must be replaced as an assembly.

Should
replacement be necessary make certain the valve is properly positioned with the centerline of
the hex plug (in the bottom of the valve) in the
vertical
position. Refer to Fig. P-l.

The
hoses
are the flexible links between the wheels

or
axles and the frame or body. The
hoses
must

withstand
the fluid pressures without expansion
and
must be free to flex during spring deflection
and
wheel turns without causing damage to the
hose.

b.
Hydraulic
lines are subject to damage and
deterioration. Hoses should be inspected for cuts,

chafing,
cracks,
twists and
loose
frame supports.

Hydraulic
tubing should be inspected for signs of
leakage (due to faulty flares or
loose
connections);

restrictions
(due to dents or corrosion); and wear (due to friction against other metal parts). Always
use correct type and size of wrench on fittings.

Avoid
damage to female fittings by supporting fit­
ting with tube nut during removal of assembly.

c.
On fittings where gaskets are used, always use
a
new gasket. Copper gaskets take a set and may
not form a
good
seal if reused.

d.
When replacing hydraulic brake hose, attach
hose
to wheel cylinder and securely tighten hose,
then attach
opposite
end to frame fitting or tubing.
Avoid
twists in
hose
when assembling to frame fitting
or
tubing. Hold
hose
end securely with

wrench
while attaching tubing to hose. If
hose
end
clip
is used, make certain clip is assembled properly.

Check
for interference during spring deflection or
rebound and during front wheel turns.

e.
Check
for any possible contact between front

brake
hose
and inner sidewall of tire when the front
wheels are in maximum
turn
position.
Check
for sufficient but not excessive length of
hose
between
the clamp and the wheels by turning the wheels
from
one extreme
turn
position to the otherl
f.
Check
that there is no possibility of any contact between the
tail
pipe and
rear
brake
hose
under
all
operating conditions.
P-9.
Brake Pedal Adjustment

There
should always be at least W [12,7 mm.]
free pedal travel before the push rod
engages
the master cylinder piston.

This
adjustment is accomplished by shortening or 326