1953 JEEP CJ air condition

c

TUNE-UP

14011

FIG.
C-8—POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION VALVE
vacuum
hose
and insert a stiff wire into the valve
body and observe whether or not the plunger can be readily moved (Fig. C-8). The valve may be
cleaned, by soaking in a reliable carburetor clean­
ing solution and drying with low pressure dry air.
b.
Hurricane
F4 Engine.

Ventilation
of the
Hurricane
F4
engine
is accom­
plished in the same manner as the Dauntless V-6

engine
described above, the differences being that clean air enters the crankcase through a
hose
con­ nected
between
the top cover of the air cleaner and
the oil filler tube of the engine. The ventilation valve is screwed to a pipe fitting mounted in the
center of the intake manifold
between
number two

and
three cylinder inlet. A
hose
connects the venti­
lation valve to a vapor
dome
on the rocker arm
cover. Service procedures are the same as
those

used on the Dauntless V-6 engine. The valve may be checked for vacuum
pull
by removing the
hose

from
the valve while running the
engine
at fast idle speed and placing a finger on the valve opening to
check the vacuum. (Refer to Fig. C-9).

C-7.
Service
Manifold
Heat
Control
Valve
The
Dauntless V-6
engine
is equipped with a mani­fold heat control valve (Fig. F-6). Test the valve
for free operation. Place a few drops of penetrating

oil
at each end of the shaft where it passes through
the manifold.
Then
move
the valve up and down

a
few times to work the oil into the bushing. When
the
engine
is cold, the valve should be in the closed
position to ensure a fast warm-up of the intake
manifold for better fuel vaporization. When the
valve is closed, the counterweight is in its counter­ clockwise position. As the
engine
warms the coun­
terweight slowly rotates clockwise until the valve is fully open.

C-8.
Check
Valve
Tappet
Clearance
a.
Hurricane
F4 Engine.

With
the
engine
cold, check and adjust the intake
valve to .018"
[0,460
mm.] clearance and the ex­
haust valves to .016" [0,406 mm.] clearance. The
intake valves are adjusted by removing the rocker

arm
cover mounted on the cylinder head.
Turn
the
engine
over until No. 1 cylinder piston is on top
dead center on its compression stroke, then using a
feeler
gauge
check the clearance
between
the valve stem and the toe of the rocker arm. If clearance is

less
or greater than .018"
[0,460
mm.] the valve
must be adjusted by turning the rocker arm nut
clockwise to decrease and counterclockwise to in­ crease the clearance. When No. 1 cylinder intake
valve has been properly set use the same proce­
dures to check and reset, if necessary, the remaining
three cylinder valves. The exhaust valves are ad­ justed by removing the tappet cover located on
the right side of the engine. Place the cylinder to
be adjusted on top dead center (compression stroke) and check the clearance
between
the valve stem and tappet screw with a feeler
gauge.
If the
clearance is
less
or greater than .016" [0,406 mm.]
the valve must be adjusted by loosening the tappet
screw locknut and turning the screw until the proper clearance is obtained, then tighten the lock-
nut.

Note:
Always recheck the valve clearance after
tightening the locknut.
b. Dauntless V-6 Engine.

The
valve tappet clearance of the Dauntless V-6

engine
needs
no adjustment as the lifters are

hydraulic
and require no lash adjustment at time
of assembly or while in service.

C-9.
Check
Engine
Cylinder
Compression
a.
Hurricane
F4 Engine.

To
take the compression readings of the
engine
cylinders
remove all the
spark
plugs and disconnect
the high tension wire from the coil.
With
the throttle and choke open
turn
the
engine
with the

starter
motor while firmly holding the compression
gauge
in the
spark
plug port of the cylinder to be
checked. Allow at least four compression strokes
when checking each cylinder and record the first
and
fourth stroke reading of the
gauge.

When
pressure quickly
comes
up to specified pres­

sure
and is uniform
between
all cylinders within 10 psi. [0,7 kg-cm2] it indicates that the
engine
is
operating normally with satisfactory seating of

rings,
valves, valve timing, etc.
When
pressure is low on the first stroke and builds
up to
less
than specified pressure it indicates com­
pression leakage usually attributable to rings or
valves. To determine which is responsible, pour
Vz
oz. [15 cm3] of tune-up oil into each cylinder.

Allow
a few minutes for the oil to leak down past
the rings and then again
test
compression. If com­
pression pressures improve over the first
test,
the trouble is probably worn piston rings and bores. If
compression pressures do not improve, the trouble
is probably caused by improper valve seating. If
this condition is noticed on only two cylinders that
are adjacent, it indicates that there is a possible gasket leak
between
these
cylinders. If inspection
of the
spark
plugs from
these
cylinders disclosed
fouling or surface cracking of electrodes, gasket leakage is probable.

When
pressure is higher than normal it indicates
that carbon
deposits
in the combustion chamber have reduced the side of the chamber enough to
give
the
effect
of a raised compression ratio.
This

will
usually cause a pinging sound in the
engine
when under load that cannot be satisfactorily cor­rected by timing. The carbon must be cleaned out
of the
engine
cylinders to correct this trouble.

Reinstall
the
spark
plugs. Torque with a wrench
to proper setting.

Advise
the vehicle owner if compression is not satisfactory. 24

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

C

FIG.
C-22—-CHECKING
FUEL
PUMP
PRESSURE
—
DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE a
couple of strokes to be sure the pump is primed.

Using
a half-pint
bottle
or similar measure, pump
Vi
pint [0,24 It] of fuel by cranking the
engine

with
the starter motor. Count the strokes neces­
sary
to
fill
the measure. If more than 20 strokes

are
required, the fuel pump is inefficient, the tank
line is leaking air, or the fuel supply is restricted.

Check
fuel filter in the fuel tank if line is restricted.

C-24.
Check Manifold Vacuum

To
check the intake manifold vacuum on the
Hurri­

cane F4 engine, remove the ventilation valve and

L
fitting from the manifold and install special adapter. On the Dauntless V-6
engine
remove the
pipe plug located in the right
rear
of the intake
FIG.
C-23—CHECKING MANIFOLD VACUUM
—

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
manifold and install special adapter. Connect the

vacuum
gauge
tube to the special adapter as shown

in
Fig. C-23 for the
Hurricane
F4 engine.

Start
the engine. Connect a Tachometer
Tool,

C-3896,
from the distributor
primary
terminal to ground and set the
engine
speed at the specified

rpm.
given in Par. C-30. Observe the vacuum
read­

ing and interpret as follows:

a.
A steady reading from 18" to 20" [457 a 508
mm.] of mercury is a normal reading, indicating
that valve and
spark
timing, valve seating, and
piston ring sealing are all satisfactory.
b. A steady but below normal reading indicates

a
condition common to all cylinders such as a

leak
at the carburetor gasket, late ignition or valve
timing, or uniform piston ring and bore wear.

c.
A slowly fluctuating or drifting reading in­ dicates that the carburetor idle mixture is incorrect

Look
for the cause in the fuel system.

d.
A rhythmic pulsating reading is caused by a
condition affecting one or more cylinders, but not

all,
and indicates leaky valve, gasket blowby, re­
stricted intake port, or an electrical miss.
e. An intermittent pulsating reading is caused by

an
occasional malfunction, such as a sticking valve
(all
valves may be
erratic
in operation if the valve
springs are weak), electrical miss caused by insuffi­
cient distributor point tension or low coil
voltage

coupled with inconsistent
spark
plug
gaps
or fouled
plugs, or
dirt
in the fuel system finding its way into
passages of
critical
size or valve
seats
in the
car­

buretor.

f.
A normal reading that quickly falls off (with

engine
running at
2000
rpm.) indicates exhaust
back
pressure caused by a restriction in the exhaust
system.

g.
Make indicated corrections to bring vacuum to 18" to 20" [457 a 508 mm.] of mercury normal

reading.

C-25.
Carburetor Adjustments

•
Refer to Fig. C-24, C-25 and C-26.

Carburetor
adjustments should not be attempted

until
it is known that
engine
ignition and com­
pression are in
good
order. Any attempt to adjust

or
alter the carburetor to compensate for faulty conditions elsewhere
will
result in reduced econ­
omy and overall performance.

Caution:
If an
engine
is idling too slow or rough,
this may be caused by a
clogged
ventilator valve

or
hose;
therefore, never adjust the carburetor idle
without first checking the crankcase ventilator
check valve and
hose.

The
air cleaner must be left in place while making
idle speed and mixture adjustments. All lights and accessories, must be turned off. The positive
crank­

case ventilator system should also be in
good
oper­
ating condition when making carburetor adjust­ ments.
Either
of
these
items noticeably affects the

air
fuel ratio at idle.

•
Hurricane
F4 Engine.
Note:
The idle mixture adjustment procedure for
the late model
YF-4941S
and
YF-6115S
Carter

31

D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
Note:
Check
the condition of the rubber O-rings.
Defective O-rings could be the major cause of oil
leakage into cylinders. Always discard and replace

all
O-rings removed as only new O-rings should be installed at reassembly.

D-18.
Ream
Cylinder
Bore Ridges

To
prevent breaking the piston lands, the ridge
at the top of each cylinder bore must be removed

first.
To remove this ridge, use a cylinder ridge
reamer,
as shown in Fig. D-3 following the instruc­
tions furnished by the reamer manufacturer. Use

care
not to cut below the top of the upper ring
travel
in the bore. Keep each piston top covered

with
an oil-soaked cloth to prevent cuttings from
falling
into the cylinder.

Note:
This
operation should be performed at this
time before the
engine
is rotated for the sequence

steps
following.

D-19.
Remove Oil Pan
Rotate the
engine
to the upside down position.
Remove the screws and lockwashers that attach
the oil pan to the cylinder block. Remove the oil

pan
and gasket.
Discard
the gasket.

D-20.
Remove Piston and Connecting
Rod
Assemblies
Remove the stamped locking nuts from the lower
end of each connecting rod bearing bolt. Remove
the connecting rod nuts. Remove the bearing cap evenly. Push the connecting rod and piston as­
sembly out of the cylinder block with the handle end of a hammer until the piston rings are free from
the cylinder bore. Remove the piston and connecting rod assembly

from
the top of the cylinder block. Reassemble the
connecting rod bearing cap with the bearings in
place in the rod from which it was removed. Rotate
the crankshaft and follow the same procedure until
all
the piston and connecting rod assemblies are
removed.
Pistons and connecting rod assemblies may be removed for repair with the
engine
in the vehicle after draining the cooling system, removing the

oil
pan and the cylinder head, and reaming the ridges as previously described.

D-21.
Remove
Timing
Gear
Cover

Remove the bolts, nuts, and lockwashers, that at­
tach
the timing gear cover to the engine. Remove
the cover, timing pointer, and cover gasket.
Dis­
card
the gasket. Remove the crankshaft oil seal

from
the timing gear cover and discard the seal. Remove the oil slinger and spacer from the
crank­

shaft.

D-22.
Remove
Timing
Gears

Use puller W-172 for pulling both the crankshaft
and
the camshaft gears.
With
the threaded cap-
screws supplied, adapt the puller to the crankshaft
FIG.
D-5—PULLING TIMING GEARS

1—
Puller
W-172 2—
Camshaft
Gear
gear and
pull
the gear.
With
the special hook-type

puller
bolts
that fit behind the camshaft gear
flange,
pull
the camshaft gear. Remove the Wood­

ruff
Keys.

D-23.
Remove
Front
End Plate
Remove the screws and lockwashers that attach the
front end plate to the cylinder block. Remove the
front end plate and gasket.
Discard
the gasket.
D-24. Remove
Clutch

Remove four
bolts
and lockwashers diagonally

opposite
that attach the clutch assembly to the
flywheel, leaving two
opposed
bolts
to be
loosened
alternately until the clutch spring pressure is re­
lieved.
Then,
support the clutch assembly with
one hand while removing the two remaining bolts.

For
information on disassembly, inspection, repair

and
assembly of the clutch refer to Section I. In­
structions for removing the clutch when the
engine
is in the vehicle are also given in Section I.

D-25.
Remove Flywheel

The
flywheel is attached to the crankshaft with two tapered dowel
bolts
and four special bolts.
Remove
these
attaching parts. Use a pry bar be­ tween the flywheel and the back of the
engine
and
carefully
loosen
the flywheel from the crankshaft.

If
the flywheel is to be removed with the
engine

in
the vehicle, the transmission and clutch must
first be removed as detailed in Section I.

D-26.
Remove
Crankshaft

Slide
the crankshaft thrust washer and all end-play

adjusting
shims off the front end of the crankshaft.

Pull
the two pieces of
rear
main bearing cap packing out of position
between
the side of the bearing cap

and
the cylinder block.

Note
the marks on the bearing caps and cylinder
block for bearing number and position. 44

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
straight
in the hole, then tap the dowel lightly

with
a hammer until it
bottoms.

d.
When installing bearing eaps, be sure to tighten
the
bolts
evenly in each cap to
pull
it into place
without bending the
dowels
or distorting the
bearing
cap.
e. Other parts of the block which require inspec­ tion
and
possible
repair,
but which are directly
related
to other
engine
components (such as tappets, pistons, camshaft, valves, crankshaft, and

oil
pump) are covered later in this section.

D-35.
Cylinder
Bores

The
cylinder bores may be reconditioned by honing
or
reboring. Use oil-soaked rags to protect
crank­

shaft
journals
and other
engine
parts from abrasive
dust during all reconditioning operations.

Both
honing and reboring of the cylinders must be
done
carefully to fit the pistons and to obtain
specified clearances. If reboring of the cylinder bores is not required but the walls are glazed, use

a
finishing
hone
to remove the glaze. Reboring the cylinders must not be attempted unless ade­
quate facilities and experienced service technicians
are
available. The amount of material to be re­moved is determined from the original diameter
of the cylinder bores (3.125" to 3.127") [79,375 a
79,426
mm.] plus the amount of oversize in diameter
of the oversize pistons to be fitted. Pistons are
available
in the following oversizes.
.010"
[0,254
mm.] .030" [0,762 mm.] .020" [0,508 mm.] .040" [1,016 mm.}

The
largest cylinder bore
will
determine the over­
size to which all cylinders must be rebored, since the size and weight of all pistons must be uniform
to maintain proper
engine
balance. The maximum rebore should not exceed .040" [1,016 mm.] from

standard.
Measure
the cylinder diameters by making mea­
surements both parallel to and at right angles to
crankshaft
over entire piston travel and at
bottom

of cylinder. Proceed as follows:

a.
If bores are scored; if out-of-round
exceeds
.005
"
[0,127 mm.]; if diameters differ more than .005";

or
if taper
exceeds
.005
"
on diameter, it is generally
recommended that cylinders be reconditioned by
reboring
and honing to the next oversize using new
pistons of the proper size.

Note:
If reboring is performed, allow .0015"
[0,0381
mm.] for final honing.

All
cylinder bore diameters must be within .002
"
[0,0508
mm.] after reconditioning.

b.
If bore measurements are within the above

limits,
but indicate hollows or waviness, cylinders should be honed with 250 grit
stone
hone. Pump
hone
up and down in cylinder while it is rotating
to produce a satin-finish, diamond cross-hatched

pattern
approximately 30° with horizontal. Hone
only enough to correct waviness.
c. If cylinder bore correction is unnecessary, break the glaze on cylinder walls with a 250 grit
stone

hone
or with a suitable deglazing tool. Operate the
hone
or deglazer to obtain diamond cross-hatched

pattern
previously mentioned.

d.
Regardless of type of correction on cylinder
walls,
wash out bores thoroughly afterwards and
apply
a light coat of
engine
oil. If cylinders have
been rebored or honed heavily, measure cylinder
diameters again to assure proper selection of piston
size.

D-36.
Pistons, Rings, and Connecting Rods
Pistons are each fitted with three rings, two com­ pression rings and one oil control
ring.
The pistons have an extra
groove
above the top ring which acts as a heat dam or insulating
groove
to protect
against sealing of the top ring in the ring
groove

with
hard
carbon. The piston pin is secured by the lock screw.

The
pistons and connecting rods were removed from
the
engine
as assemblies. If cylinders were rebored,
new oversized pistons and rings
will
have to be in­

stalled.

Disassemble the pistons and rods. Remove the
two compression rings, the oil control
ring,
and the oil control ring expander from each piston. Do not remove the
bolts
from the lower end of the
connecting rods unless the
bolts
are damaged.
Clamp
each connecting rod and piston assembly

in
a padded bench vise and remove the piston pin

lock
screw and lockwasher. Press the piston pin
out of the piston and connecting rod.
Clean
all
carbon,
gum, and lacquer
deposits
from both the

inner
and outer surfaces of each piston, connecting

rod,
and piston pin. Use a ring
groove
cleaner or a
broken
ring filed to a sharp square
edge
to clean
the carbon from the piston ring
grooves
and the

insulator
groove. Use care not to scrape metal from
the sides of the
grooves
or make
burrs
on ring
groove
surfaces. Run a length of wire through the

oil
spray
hole
near the lower end of the connecting

rod
to clear the
hole
of hardened oil
deposits
or
foreign matter.
Carefully
inspect the pistons and
replace
any that are broken or cracked. Replace
pistons if any of the ring lands are chipped, broken,
or
rounded on the
edges;
or if the piston is scored,

scratched,
or burned so seriously that the imperfec­
tions cannot be removed with a hand honing
stone

or
crocus cloth.

Replace
the pistons as follows:

a.
After cylinder bores have been carefully checked for out-of-round and taper (Par. D-35), check fit
of each piston to cylinder bore with block and
pistons clean and dry and at approximately 70
°F.
[21°C]
by using Piston Fitting Gauge And Scale

Tool
No. C-690 as shown in Fig. D-7. Use a .003"
[0,0762
mm.] thickness
gauge
%" [19 mm.] wide.

The
piston is fitted upside down in the block to
facilitate the operation. The
gauge
must extend the
full
length of the piston on the thrust side
(opposite

side from slot in piston
skirt).
Scale should register
5
to 10 pounds [2,3 a 4,5 kg.]
pull
to remove the
thickness
gauge
from
between
cylinder
wall
and piston. Excessive
pull
indicates need for a slightly

smaller
piston or additional honing of cylinder. In­ sufficient
pull
indicates need for fitting a larger piston. 47

D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

10444

FIG.
D-14—PISTON
RING INSTALLATION D-37.
Piston Ring Application Chart

Cylinder
Bora
Ovtrsiie
Correct

Ring
Size
Ring
Gap

Fitting
End
Gap

Std.
te .009'

[•0,228
mm.]
Std.

None
.007' to
.045'
[0,1778 a
1.1430
mm.]

.010*
to .019'

[0,254
a
0,4826
mm.)
-.020'

File
fit .007'
to
.017'
[0,1778 a 0,4318 mm.]
.020'
to
.024'
[0,508 a
0,6096
mm.] -.020'

None
.007' to .029*
[0,1778 a
0,7366
mm.]
.025'
to
.029'
[0,635 a
0,7366
mm.] -.030'

File
fit

.007'
to .017*
.030' to .034*
[0,762 a
0,8636
mm.] -.030'

None
.007'to
.029'

.038'to
.039'

[0,8890
a
0,9908
mm.] -.040*

File
fit
.007'
to .017'
.040' [1,016 mm.]
-.040*
None
.007'
to .017'

D-38.
Crankshaft

The
crankshaft is machined from a heat-treated

carbon
steel forging and is carefully balanced both
dynamically
and statically. The crankshaft is
supported by three replaceable main bearings. The
front main bearing is flanged to take the end
thrust
of the crankshaft. A flanged section on the

rear
of the crankshaft acts as an oil slinger. While the crankshaft is out of the engine, handle it care­

fully
to prevent damage to the connecting rod
crankpins
and the main bearing journals. Refer
to
Fig.
D-l5.

D-39.
Crankshaft Inspection
and
Repair

Clean
out the drilled oil passages in the crankshaft

journals
with a small rifle brush making sure to get rid of all sludge or gum deposits. Blow out the passages with compressed air after cleaning.
Clean
the crankshaft thoroughly with a suitable
cleaning solvent. Inspect the crankshaft for
cracks,

alignment, and condition of the crankpins and the
main
bearing journals. Use magnafuix equipment,

if
available, to check for cracks or structural flaws.
Cracks,
misalignment, and scored or worn journals

and
crankpins necessitate crankshaft repair or replacement.

Check
crankshaft counterweights to be sure they
are
not
loose.

D-40.
Checking Crankshaft Alignment

To
check alignment, mount the crankshaft in the
cylinder
block with the front and
rear
bearings in
place but with the intermediate bearing removed.
With
a dial indicator mounted on the crankcase

and
the indicator button resting on the inter­mediate bearing
journal,
slowly rotate the
crank­

shaft and
note
the reading on the indicator
dial.
Install
the intermediate bearing and remove first
the front and then the
rear
bearings to repeat the operation with the dial indicator, checking the
front and
rear
bearing journals. The maximum allowable run-out is .002"
[0,0508
mm.].

D-41.
Checking Main Bearing Journals

An
ordinary 3" [7,62 cm.] micrometer may be used.
The
standard
journal
diameter is
2.334"
to 2.333" 50

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
against the hub of the crankshaft pulley.
Timing

gears are accessible for inspection or replacement

with
the
engine
installed in the vehicle after re­ moving the radiator, belt drive pulley, and timing
cover.

Should
it be necessary to replace the timing gears, attention must be given to the end float of both
the camshaft and crankshaft and to the running

clearance
of both gears. It is also advisable to
check
both the oil jet and oil passage to the
crank­

shaft front bearing to be sure that they are clear.

D-55.
Inspection and
Repair

Check
the general condition of both gears and
inspect for evidence of excessive wear. Replace
excessively worn or damaged gears. Inspect the
cover and replace if bent or damaged. It is recom­ mended that the crankshaft oil seal in the cover
be replaced when the cover is removed to ensure a
good
seal around the crankshaft. To replace this

seal
with the
engine
in the vehicle
requires
removing
the radiator and water pump.

D-56.
Valves, Springs, and Guides

The
exhaust valves seat on the top of the cylinder

block
with the
stems
extending down through
replaceable valve guides. The exhaust valves are actuated by the camshaft through exhaust valve
tappets. The exhaust valve springs are assembled

and
locked on the lower end of the exhaust valve
stems. The retaining locks are the split type, which
fit in a recess on the valve
stems
and into the taper

in
the valve spring retainers.

Adjustment
of exhaust valves is by means of the
adjusting
screw threaded into the upper end of the
exhaust valve tappets. An exhaust valve rotator used as a valve spring retainer is installed on the
lower end of the exhaust valve.
This
valve rotator,
known
as "Roto Cap", is a spring-loaded
ball

bearing
device. On each lift, or opening stroke of
a
valve, the rotator
gives
the valve a slight positive
clockwise rotation.

The
intake valves operate in valve
guides
in the
cylinder
head and are actuated by rocker arms.

The
rocker arms are actuated by valve push rods

and
the intake valve tappets. The intake valve
springs,
the intake valve spring retainers, and the

intake
valve spring retainer locks make up the

remainder
of the valve operating parts. An intake
valve spring retainer oil seal which encircles the

upper
end of the intake valve
between
the valve
locks and the upper end of the valve spring re

tainer,
controls the passage of oil along the valve
stem and guide.

Note:
When
engine
trouble indicates defective
valves as a possible source of trouble, also check

all
vacuum line connections for possible leaks.

D-57.
Inspection of Valves, Springs,
and
Guides

Clean
the valves on a wire wheel, making sure that

all
carbon is removed from the top and the under­
side of the heads and that all gum and varnish
deposits
are removed from the stems.
Polish
the valve
stems
with steel wool or crocus

cloth.
Visually
inspect all valves for warpage,

cracks,
or excessive burning and discard if one of

these
conditions exists. Replace any worn, pitted,

or
corroded valves that cannot be cleaned with a
wire
brush.
Replace any valves when
seats
are pitted, burned, or corroded so badly that they
cannot be cleaned up with a light refacing on a valve refacing machine.

Replace
valves with marks of scoring or abrasion visible on the stem. Replace any valves with bent

stems
which
will
be apparent when the valve is
mounted in the valve refacing machine.

Note:
Use only hard-face exhaust valves for
replacement.

Examine
the
stems
of valves which employ the
ball
bearing rotators.
Wear
marks around the
cir­

cumference of the
stems
indicates that the valve is
rotating satisfactorily.
Vertical
heavy pressure

areas
indicate that the valve is not rotating and the valve spring retainer (Roto
Cap)
should be replaced

if
at fault.
Check
the diameter of the valve stem at two or three places along the length of the stem

with
a micrometer. The intake valve stem diameter is .3733" to .3738" [9,482 a
9,495
mm.]. The
exhaust valve stem diameter is .371" to .372"
[9,423
a
9,449
mm.].

Note:
Exhaust
and intake valve springs are

similar
in appearance. They must not be inter­
changed as they have different spring
charac­

teristics.

Wash
the valve springs thoroughly in solvent.

Visually
examine the springs and replace any that

are
deformed or obviously damaged. Examine for

corrosion
from moisture or acid etching which might
FIG.
D-19—TESTING
VALVE
SPRING

1—
Torque
Wrench

2—
Spring
Testing
Fixture

3—
Valve
Spring
54

'Jeep9
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

h.
Check
ignition (distributor) timing; reset if
necessary.

i.
Check
carburetor
adjustments; reset if necessary,

j.
With
engine
fully warmed up, tighten cylinder
head and manifold
bolts
and nuts to specified
torque.
Check
cylinder head gaskets and
bolts
for
air
or coolant leaks.

Note:
Tightness of cylinder head
bolts
should be
checked and corrected after 500 to 600 miles [800

a
960 km.] of normal operation.

k.
Check
fan belt tension; adjust if necessary.

I.
Check
for and correct any oil leak, fuel leak or
coolant leak.
D-107.
VALVE
ADJUSTMENT

Proper
valve adjustment is important to prevent
burning
of valves and poor
engine
performance.

This
adjustment consists of obtaining a specified

lash
in the valve mechanism. The exhaust valve
tappets and the intake valve rocker arms should be adjusted to the proper clearance with the
engine

cold (at room temperature). Valve clearance can
be properly adjusted only when the tappet is on the
heel or low portion of the cam.
INTAKE

OPENS

9°
BTC?

FIG.
D-43-
10270

-VALVE
TIMING
D-108. Valve Adjustment Procedure

The
exhaust valve tappets are adjusted by turning
the adjusting screw in or out of the tappet as neces­
sary
to obtain the proper clearance. Where special
wrenches can be obtained, they should be used to facilitate the adjustment. The proper clearance is .016" [0,406 mm.]
between
the end of the adjusting
screw and the
bottom
of the exhaust valve.

Crank
the
engine
over to
close
a valve and check
the clearance with a feeler
gauge.
To adjust, hold
the tappet with one wrench and
turn
the adjusting

screw,
with the other.
Check
and adjust each of
the tappets in proper sequence.

Adjust
each intake valve by adjusting the rocker
arm
screw at the push rod to obtain .018" [0,457 mm.] clearance
between
the rocker arm and the
valve stem with tappet on the heel of the cam.
D-109.
Check
Valve
Timing

To
check the valve timing, carefully set the intake
valve rocker arm adjustment for No. 1 cylinder to .026"
[0,6604
mm.]
between
the rocker arm and the
valve stem. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until
the piston in No. 1 cylinder is ready for the intake stroke. The intake valve
opens
9° before top center
(BTC).
Note
the distance
between
the
"TC"
and
"5°"
marks on the indicator on the timing gear
cover and estimate the 9° before top center position.
See
Fig.
D-43.
With
the crankshaft in this position, timing is correct if the rocker arm is just tight
against the intake valve stem. Do not overlook resetting the rocker arm adjustment to the correct

running
clearance.
D-110. Positive
Crankcase
Ventilation

Be
sure there are no air leaks at the tube connec­
tions
between
the air cleaner and the oil filler tube,

and
that the oil filler tube cap gasket is in
good

condition. Always keep the cap locked securely in
place. When tuning the
engine
or grinding valves, remove the control valve and clean it thoroughly.
If
the valve is blocked with carbon, the ventilating
system
will
not operate and, should the valve

fail
to seat, it
will
be impossible to make the
engine

idle satisfactorily. Refer to Par. C-6 for servicing.
D-111. Oil
Filter

The
engine
is equipped with a throw-away type

oil
filter.
This
oil filter must be serviced periodi­
cally
as outlined in the
Lubrication
Section. 69

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

Dl

12713

FIG.
Dl-11—MEASURING
TELESCOPE GAUGE
1—
Telescope
Gauge
2—
Micrometer

may
be measured with an inside micrometer or
by setting the cylinder
gauge
dial
at zero and meas­
uring
across the
gauge
contact points with an out­side micrometer while the
gauge
is at same zero
setting. Refer to
Figs.
Dl-10 and Dl-11.

b.
If a cylinder bore is moderately rough or slightly

scored,
but is not out-of-round or tapered, it is

usually
possible to remedy the situation by honing
the bore to fit a standard service piston, since
standard
service pistons are high-limit production
pistons. If cylinder bore is very rough or deeply
scored,
it may be necessary to rebore the cylinder
to fit an oversize piston in order to ensure satisfac­
tory
results.

c.
If cylinder bore is tapered .005" [0,127 mm.]

or
more or is out-of-round .003" [0,076 mm.] or

more,
it is advisable to rebore for the smallest possible oversize piston and rings.

d.
Carefully
inspect the cylinder block for small

cracks
or fractures, and for porosity.
Rust
in any
cylinder
bore may indicate a leak.

e.
Inspect all machined surfaces for scoring and

burrs.
With
a straight
edge
and feeler
gauge,
check
each
machined surface for distortion.

D1-37.
Cylinder Block Repair
If
one or more cylinder bores are rough, scored, or

worn
beyond prescribed limits, it
will
be necessary
to correct bores and fit new pistons.

If
relatively few bores require correction, it
will

not be necessary to rebore all cylinders to the same
oversize in order to maintain
engine
balance, since
all
oversize pistons are held to the same weights as

standard-size
pistons. If conditions justify replace­
ment of all pistons, however, all new pistons should
be the same nominal size.

Standard-size
service pistons are high-limit, or

maximum
diameter; therefore, they can usually be installed after a slight amount of honing has
been
done
to correct slight scoring or excessive

clearances.
This
applies
primarily
to
engines
which
have relatively low mileage. Service pistons are also furnished in .010"
[0,254
mm.] oversize. All

service
pistons are diamond bored, and selectively
fitted with piston pins; pistons are not furnished
without pins.

Caution:
Do not attempt to cut down oversize pis­

tons
to fit cylinder bores as this
will
destroy the

surface
treatment and affect the weight. The small­
est possible oversize service pistons should be used

and
the cylinder bores should be honed to size

for
proper clearance.

Before
honing or reboring cylinders, measure all new pistons with a micrometer, on an axis perpen­

dicular
to the piston pin. Select the smallest piston

for
the first fitting. The slight variation usually
found between pistons in a set may provide for
correction
in case the first piston tried is too

small.

If
wear at top of cylinder
does
not exceed .005" [0,127 mm.]
excess
diameter, or exceed .003"
[0,076 mm.] out-of-round, honing is recommended.

If
wear or out-of-round
exceeds
these
limits, the
bore should be reground with a boring bar of the

fly
cutter type, then finish-honed.

When
reboring cylinders, all crankshaft bearing caps must be in place and tightened to proper
torque to avoid distortion of bores in
final
assem­
bly.
Always be sure the crankshaft is out of the

way
of the boring cutter when boring each cylinder.
When
boring, leave the diameter .001" [0,025 mm.]

undersize,
then finish hone to obtain the required

clearance.

When
honing cylinders, use clean sharp
stones
of
proper
grade for the amount of metal to be re­
moved. Refer to instructions supplied by the hone
manufacturer.
Dull
or dirty
stones
cut unevenly

and
generate excessive heat. When using coarse

or
medium grade
stones,
leave sufficient metal so
that all
stone
marks can be removed with the fine
stones
used to finish-hone to proper clearance.

When
finish-honing, pass the hone through the entire length of cylinder at a rate of approximately 60 cycles per minute.
This
should produce the

desired
45-degree
cross hatch pattern on cylinder

walls.
A proper pattern
will
ensure maximum
ring
life and minimum oil consumption.

After
final
honing and before the piston is checked

for
fit, each cylinder bore must be washed thor­ oughly to remove all traces of abrasive, then dried completely. The dry bore should be brushed clean

with
a power-driven fibre
brush.
If all traces of

abrasive
are not removed,
rapid
wear of new pistons

and
rings
will
result.

Note:
Wipe cylinder bores with a clean white

cloth,
moistened with SAE 10 oil. Cleaning should
continue until this
test
shows no sign of
dirt.

It
is of the greatest importance that refinished

cylinder
bores be true, with .0005" [0,013 mm.]
or
less out-of-round or taper.
Each
bore must have

a
smooth surface, without
stone
or cutter
marks.
After
final
honing and cleaning, each piston must be fitted individually to the bore in which it
will

be installed. Once fitted, each piston should be
marked
with its cylinder number to assure correct

installation.
85