SAFETY195
Recommendations For Attaching Child Restraints
Lower Anchors And Tethers For CHildren
(LATCH) Restraint System
LATCH Label
Your vehicle is equipped with the child restraint
anchorage system called LATCH, which stands
for Lower Anchors and Tethers for CHildren. The
LATCH system has three vehicle anchor points
for installing LATCH-equipped child seats. There
are two lower anchorages located at the back of
the seat cushion where it meets the seatback
and one top tether anchorage located behind
the seating position. These anchorages are
used to install LATCH-equipped child seats
without using the vehicle’s seat belts. Some
seating positions may have a top tether
anchorage but no lower anchorages. In these
seating positions, the seat belt must be used
with the top tether anchorage to install the child
restraint. Please see the following table for
more information.
Restraint Type
Combined Weight of
the Child + Child Restraint Use Any Attachment Method Shown With An “X” Below
LATCH – Lower Anchors Only Seat Belt Only LATCH – Lower
Anchors + Top Tether Anchor Seat Belt + Top
Tether Anchor
Rear-Facing Child
Restraint Up to 65 lbs (29.5 kg)
XX
Rear-Facing Child Restraint More than 65 lbs
(29.5 kg) X
Forward-Facing Child Restraint Up to 65 lbs (29.5 kg)
XX
Forward-Facing Child Restraint More than 65 lbs
(29.5 kg) X
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SAFETY197
Frequently Asked Questions About Installing Child Restraints With LATCH
What is the weight limit (child’s weight + weight
of the child restraint) for using the LATCH
anchorage system to attach the child restraint? 65 lbs (29.5 kg)Use the LATCH anchorage system until the
combined weight of the child and the child
restraint is 65 lbs (29.5 kg). Use the seat belt
and tether anchor instead of the LATCH system
once the combined weight is more than 65 lbs
(29.5 kg).
Can the LATCH anchorages and the seat belt be
used together to attach a rear-facing or
forward-facing child restraint? NoDo not use the seat belt when you use the
LATCH anchorage system to attach a rear-facing
or forward-facing child restraint.
Booster seats may be attached to the LATCH
anchorages if allowed by the booster seat
manufacturer. See your booster seat owner’s
manual for more information.
Can a child seat be installed in the center
position using the inner LATCH lower
anchorages from the outboard seating
positions? N/A – Regular Cab
No – Crew Cab Full Bench rear seat Regular Cab Front / Crew Cab with full bench
rear seat: Use the seat belt and tether anchor to
install a child seat in the center seating position.
Crew Cab with split bench rear seat / Mega Cab:
Child restraints can be installed using the
supplied lower anchorages for the center
seating position.
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SAFETY203
Frequently Asked Questions About Installing Child Restraints With Seat Belts
What is the weight limit (child’s
weight + weight of the child
restraint) for using the Tether
Anchor with the seat belt to attach
a forward facing child restraint? Weight limit of the Child RestraintAlways use the tether anchor when
using the seat belt to install a
forward facing child restraint, up to
the recommended weight limit of
the child restraint.
Can the rear-facing child restraint
touch the back of the front
passenger seat? YesContact between the front
passenger seat and the child
restraint is allowed, if the child
restraint manufacturer also allows
contact.
Can the rear head restraints be
removed? YesThe head restraints can be
removed in every rear seating
position if they interfere with the
installation of the child restraint.
Refer to “Head Restraints” in
“Getting To Know Your Vehicle” for
further information.
Can the buckle stalk be twisted to
tighten the seat belt against the
belt path of the child restraint? Yes – Cinching Latch Plate
No – ALR In positions with cinching latch
plates (CINCH), the buckle stalk
may be twisted up to 3 full turns.
Do not twist the buckle stalk in a
seating position with an ALR
retractor.
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230STARTING AND OPERATING
NOTE:
The block heater will require 110 Volts AC and
6.5 Amps to activate the heater element.
BLOCK HEATER USAGE
For ambient temperatures below 0°F (-18°C),
engine block heater usage is recommended.
For ambient temperatures below –20°F
(-29°C), engine block heater usage is required.
ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS —
GAS ENGINE
A long break-in period is not required for the
engine and drivetrain (transmission and axle) in
your vehicle.
Drive moderately during the first 300 miles
(500 km). After the initial 60 miles (100 km),
speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are
desirable.
While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration
within the limits of local traffic laws contributes
to a good break-in. Wide-open throttle
acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and
should be avoided. The engine oil installed in the engine at the
factory is a high-quality energy conserving type
lubricant. Oil changes should be consistent with
anticipated climate conditions under which
vehicle operations will occur. For the
recommended viscosity and quality grades,
refer to “Fluids And Lubricants” in “Technical
Specifications”.
NOTE:
A new engine may consume some oil during its
first few thousand miles (kilometers) of opera
-
tion. This should be considered a normal part of
the break-in and not interpreted as a problem.
Please check your oil level with the engine oil
indicator often during the break in period. Add
oil as required.
ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS —
DIESEL ENGINE
The Cummins® Turbo Diesel engine does not
require a break-in period due to its construction.
Normal operation is allowed, providing the
following recommendations are followed:
Warm up the engine before placing it under
load.
Do not operate the engine at idle for
prolonged periods.
Use the appropriate transmission gear to
prevent engine lugging.
Observe vehicle oil pressure and tempera -
ture indicators.
Check the coolant and oil levels frequently.
Vary throttle position at highway speeds
when carrying or towing significant weight.
CAUTION!
Never use Non-Detergent Oil or Straight
Mineral Oil in the engine or damage may
result.
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264STARTING AND OPERATING
Crossing A Ravine, Gully, Ditch, Washout
Or Rut
When crossing a ravine, gully, ditch, washout or
a large rut, the angled approach is the key to
maintaining your vehicle's mobility. Approach
these obstacles at a 45-degree angle and let
each tire go through the obstacle
independently. You need to use caution when
crossing large obstacles with steep sides. Do
not attempt to cross any large obstacle with
steep sides at an angle great enough to put the
vehicle at risk of a rollover. If you get caught in
a rut, dig a small trench to the right or left at a
45-degree angle ahead of the front tires. Use
the removed dirt to fill the rut ahead of the
turnout you just created. You should now be
able to drive out following the trench you just
created at a 45-degree angle.
Crossing Logs
To cross a log, approach it at a slight angle
(approximately 10 to 15 degrees). This allows
one front tire to be on top of the log while the
other just starts to climb the log. While climbing
the log, modulate your brake and accelerator to
avoid spinning the log out from under your tires.
Then ease the vehicle off the log using your
brakes.
Getting High Centered
If you get hung up or high centered on an object,
get out of the vehicle and try to determine what
the vehicle is hung up on, where it is contacting
the underbody and what is the best direction to
recover the vehicle. Depending on what you are
in contact with, jack the vehicle up and place a
few rocks under the tires so the weight is off of
the high point when you let the vehicle down.
You can also try rocking the vehicle or winching
the vehicle off the object.
HILL CLIMBING
Hill climbing requires good judgment and a
good understanding of your abilities and your
vehicle's limitations. Hills can cause serious
problems. Some are just too steep to climb and
should not be attempted. You should always
feel confident with the vehicle and your abilities.
You should always climb hills straight up and
down. Never attempt to climb a hill on an angle.
Before Climbing A Steep Hill – As you
approach a hill consider its grade or steep -
ness. Determine if it is too steep. Look to see
what the traction is on the hill side trail. Is the
trail straight up and down? What is on top
and the other side? Are there ruts, rocks,
branches or other obstacles on the path?
Can you safely recover the vehicle if some -
thing goes wrong? If everything looks good
and you feel confident, then change trans-
mission into a lower gear, shift the transfer
WARNING!
There is an increased risk of rollover when
crossing an obstacle, at any angle, with steep
sides.
CAUTION!
Do not attempt to cross a log with a greater
diameter than the running ground clearance
or the vehicle will become high centered.
CAUTION!
Winching or rocking the vehicle off hard
objects increases the risk of underbody
damage.
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STARTING AND OPERATING265
case into 4WD LOW and proceed with
caution. You should use first gear and 4WD
LOW for very steep hills.
Driving Uphill – Once you have determined
your ability to proceed and have shifted into
the appropriate gear, line your vehicle up for
the straightest possible run. Accelerate with
an easy constant throttle and apply more
power as you start up the hill. Do not race
forward into a steep grade, the abrupt
change of grade could cause you to lose
control. If the front end begins to bounce,
ease off the throttle slightly to bring all four
tires back on the ground. As you approach
the crest of the hill ease off the throttle and
slowly proceed over the top. If the wheels
start to slip as you approach the crest of a
hill, ease off the accelerator and maintain
headway by turning the steering wheel no
more than a quarter turn quickly back and
forth. This will provide a fresh "bite" into the
surface and will usually provide enough trac -
tion to complete the climb. If you do not make
it to the top, place the vehicle in REVERSE
and back straight down the grade using
engine resistance along with the vehicle
brakes.
Driving Downhill – Before driving down a
steep hill you need to determine if it is too
steep for a safe descent. What is the surface
traction? Is the grade too steep to maintain a
slow controlled descent? Are there obsta -
cles? Is it a straight descent? Is there plenty
of distance at the base of the hill to regain
control if the vehicle descends too fast? If
you feel confident in your ability to proceed
then make sure you are in 4WD LOW with the
transmission in FIRST gear (manually select
FIRST gear on automatic transmissions) and
proceed with caution. Allow engine braking to
control the descent and apply your brakes if
necessary, but do not allow the tires to lock.
Driving Across An Incline – If at all possible
avoid driving across an incline. If it is neces -
sary, know your vehicle's abilities. Driving
across an incline places more weight on the
downhill wheels, which increases the possi -
bilities of a downhill slide or rollover. Make
sure the surface has good traction with firm
and stable soils. If possible transverse the
incline at an angle heading slightly up or
down.
WARNING!
Never attempt to climb a hill at an angle or
turn around on a steep grade. Driving across
an incline increases the risk of a roll over,
which may result in severe injury or death.
WARNING!
Do not descend a steep grade in NEUTRAL. Use
vehicle brakes in conjunction with engine
braking. Descending a grade too fast could
cause you to lose control and be seriously
injured or killed.
WARNING!
Driving across an incline increases the risk of
a rollover, which may result in severe injury.
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STARTING AND OPERATING269
30 feet (6 to 9 meters) between the vehicles
to allow for a safe recovery. If necessary join
two tow straps together using a 1.5 inch hard
wood dowel. This will keep the straps from
becoming knotted and is safer than using a
clevis pin if the strap breaks. Next have the
tow vehicle backup, leaving two to three feet
worth of slack in the strap. Then the tow
vehicle, using light throttle, should accelerate
tightening the strap providing the pulling
force needed to free the vehicle. The vehicle
being recovered should assist in the
recovery, at the time of the snap, by slowly
spinning the tires in the same direction as
the pulling vehicle. After the vehicle becomes
free, the driver of the previously stuck vehicle
should signal they are free and should hit
their brakes stopping both vehicles. The
driver of the pulling vehicle should let off the
throttle without using the brakes, once
signaled by the other driver. This sequence is
important to avoid having the recovered
vehicle hit the pulling vehicle.
Winching (Refer To “Winch Operation” For
Additional Information) – Winching is most
commonly used in the following situations:
there is no support vehicle available, a high
controlled force is required to recover the
vehicle, there is a high risk of environmental
or vehicle damage, or where nothing else
seems to work. A winch can deliver a high
pulling force with a great deal of control. It
allows you to walk the vehicle out of the situ -
ation in a slow controlled manner. This
control works well for avoiding further vehicle
damage. Once you decide it is time to use the
winch look for a good anchor point. It needs
to be strong enough to hold more than the vehicle's weight and provide a direction of
pull as straight as possible. Use block and
tackle if necessary to improve the angle of
pull or increase the winch's pulling force. If
the anchor point is a tree use a strap around
its base and hook the cable to the strap. If it
is another vehicle, then place that vehicle in
PARK and block the front tires. If you cannot
find an anchor point within reach try using
your spare tire by burying it. Once you have
determined an anchor point hook up the
cable, ensuring there are a least five wraps of
cable left on the drum, and place a floor mat
or something else over the strung out cable.
Placing something over the strung out cable
helps keep the cable on the ground if it
breaks. Next, place the vehicle in FIRST gear
and apply a very light throttle as you power
the winch in. Be careful not to allow slack in
the cable as you recover the vehicle. Do not
try to guide the cable into the drum. If it starts
to bunch up on one end, let it. You can
re-spool the cable afterwards. Never use a
winch cable as a tow strap and always stand
back while winching.
WARNING!
Never use tow straps with end hooks or link
two straps with a clevis pin. These heavy
metal objects could become projectiles if a
strap breaks, which could cause severe
injury. Never leave more than 2 to 3 feet
(0.60 to 1 meter) of slack in the strap. More
slack than this greatly increases the risk of
injury and vehicle damage. Always keep
everyone at least 30 feet (9 meters) away
from a strapping or winching situation.
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272STARTING AND OPERATING
2.Remote Socket: The remote socket (which
will be located on the bumper assembly)
allows the remote control to be attached to
the control pack to allow the winch to
function.
3. Winch Drum With Integral Brake: The winch
drum allows the rope to be stored on the
winch and transmits force to the rope. The
winch is equipped with an integral brake
that will stop rotation of the winch drum if
the winch motor is stopped.
4. Synthetic Rope: The synthetic rope allows
the winch to be connected to an anchor to
provide a pulling force. This synthetic rope is
highly flexible, lightweight, and it floats.
5. Clutch Lever: The clutch lever allows the
winch drum to be disconnected from the
winch motor to allow the rope to be pulled
from the winch by hand.
6. Remote Control: The remote control
provides the interface between the winch
operator and the winch. The remote control
provides the ability to power the winch in,
out, and stop the winch. To operate the
winch, the toggle switch is pressed down to power the winch in and up to power the
winch out. The winch will stop if the switch
is left in the neutral (center) position.
Fairlead: The hawse fairlead acts as a guide for
the synthetic rope and minimizes damage to the
rope.
WINCH ACCESSORIES
The following accessories are necessary to
attach the winch to anchors, change direction of
pull, and for safe winching.
Gloves: It is extremely important to
wear protective gloves while
operating the winch or handling the
winch rope. Avoid loose fitting clothes
or anything that could become entangled in the
rope and other moving parts.
Snatch/Block Pulley: Used properly,
the multi-purpose snatch block allows
you to (1) increase the winch's pulling power; and (2) change your pulling direction
without damaging the winch rope. Proper use of
the snatch block is covered in "Before You Pull."
Clevis/D-Shackles: The D-Shackle is
a safe means of connecting the
looped ends of cables, straps and
snatch blocks. The shackle's pin is
threaded to allow easy removal.
Tree Trunk Protector: Typically made
of tough, high-quality nylon, it
provides the operator an attachment
point for the winch rope to a wide
variety of anchor points and objects, as well as
protect living trees.
Abrasion Sleeve: The abrasion sleeve is
provided with the synthetic rope and must be
used with the synthetic rope at all times to
protect the rope from potential abrasion wear.
The sleeve has a loose fit so it can easily be
positioned along the synthetic rope to protect
from rough surfaces and sharp corners.
CAUTION!
If not installed, the hook strap must be
placed on the hook.
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