2017 FORD F750 engine

The restriction gauge, located on the upper
housing of the air filter assembly, measures
the vacuum inside the air filter. The more
the air filter is restricted (dirty, clogged),
the higher the vacuum reading.
Check the air filter restriction gauge
whenever you open the hood to perform
general engine maintenance or at least
every 7,500 miles (12,000 km). If you
operate your vehicle in extremely dusty
conditions, check and reset the gauge at
least every 500 miles (800 km), or two
weeks, whichever comes first. Change the
air filter when the restriction gauge reads
near the change filter line and the gauge
is yellow. If you allow the restriction gauge
to reach maximum restriction you can
affect your engine performance and fuel
economy.
Note:
Do not blow out the air filter element
with compressed air since the compressed
air could damage the filter paper.
Note: Do not rely on filter appearance
alone. A filter which appears to be dirty may
actually have several thousand miles
(kilometers) of life remaining. After installation of the new filter element,
reset the gauge by pressing the reset
button on top of the gauge.
The following actions are recommend after
operating the vehicle up to 200 miles (320
km) in heavy snowfall or extreme rain:
•
Snow: At the earliest opportunity, open
the hood and clear all the snow and ice
from the air filter housing inlet (do NOT
remove the foam filter) and reset the
air filter restriction gauge.
• Extreme rain: The air filter will dry after
about 15– 30 minutes at highway
speeds. At the earliest opportunity,
open the hood and reset the air filter
restriction gauge.
Air Filter Replacement
When replacing the air filter element, use
a Motorcraft® air filter element. See
Motorcraft Parts (page 255).
Note: Failure to use the correct air filter
element may result in severe engine
damage.
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CHANGING THE ENGINE-
MOUNTED AND DIESEL FUEL
CONDITIONER MODULE FUEL
FILTERS
WARNING
Do not dispose of fuel in the
household refuse or the public
sewage system. Use an authorized
waste disposal facility. Your vehicle has two fuel filters. The first
filter mounts on top of the engine on the
left-hand side. The second filter is inside
the diesel fuel conditioner module. The
module is mounted between the outboard
side of the fuel tank and the frame rail.
Note:
The module is at the front of the fuel
tank or at the front of the aft-axle fuel tank
on some models.
Regular fuel filter changes are an
important part of engine maintenance;
failing to keep with the scheduled
maintenance could lead to engine
performance issues and fuel injection
system damage. See Scheduled
Maintenance (page 316).
Use only recommended service parts
conforming to specifications. See
Motorcraft Parts
(page 255).
Note: Using fuel that has high levels of
impurities may require more frequent filter
replacements than the service interval
specifies.
Diesel Fuel Conditioner Module
Filter
Removal
1. Access the underside of your vehicle. 2. The diesel fuel conditioner module is
on the left-hand frame rail.
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7. Slide the filter element toward the
drain plug to disengage the securing
clips.
Installation
1. Slide the filter element into the housing
and fully engage the securing clips.
2. Install the lower portion of the housing.
Tighten the bolts until you feel a strong
resistance. Maximum torque 7 lb.ft
(9 Nm).
3. Connect the electrical connector.
4. Tighten the drain plug, turn it clockwise
until it stops and you feel a strong
resistance. Do not use any tools to
tighten the drain plug.
5. Switch the ignition on for 30 seconds and then switch the ignition off. Repeat
this operation six times in a row to
purge any trapped air from the fuel
system. Engine-mounted Fuel Filter
Although the fuel system is not fully
pressurized when the vehicle is off, some
residual pressure may remain in the fuel
system since it can take some time for the
pressure to completely bleed off.
Therefore, we recommend you place an
absorbent cloth below the filter connectors
to absorb any fuel that may drain.
The engine-mounted fuel filter is a plastic
disposable cartridge.
Removal
1.
Disconnect the fuel lines by squeezing
the connector tabs and pulling the lines
straight off.
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2.
Rotate the filter fully counterclockwise
until the peg is at the far end of the slot.
3. Pull the filter straight up from the bracket and discard the filter.
Installation
1. Install the new filter into the filter bracket. Turn the filter clockwise to
lock it in place.
2. Reconnect the fuel lines.
3. Switch the ignition on for 30 seconds and then switch the ignition off. Repeat
this operation six times in a row to
purge any trapped air from the fuel
system.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
INSPECTION
Periodically inspect electrical connectors
on the outside of the cab and on the engine
and frame for corrosion and tightness.
Exposed terminals, such as the fuel sender,
cranking motor, alternator and
feed-through studs, should be cleaned and re-coated with a lubricant sealing grease
such as Motorcraft Silicone Brake Caliper
Grease and Dielectric Compound XG-3, or
equivalent. This should include the ground
cable connector for batteries, engine and
cab as well as the jump-starting stud.
Accessory Feed Connections
Vehicle electrical systems are complex and
often include powertrain components,
such as engine and transmission controls,
instrument panels and ABS. While most
systems operate on battery voltage (12
volts), some systems can be as high as 90
volts or as low as five volts. See the
Electrical Circuit Diagram Manuals,
available from your vehicle
’s manufacturer,
to make sure that any extra body lights and
accessory connections to circuits are both
appropriate and not overloaded. Do not
make modifications to any vehicle control
system without first contacting an
authorized dealer.
AIR INDUCTION SYSTEM
INSPECTION WARNING
When performing maintenance to
any turbocharged engine with engine
air inlet piping disconnected, keep
loose clothing, jewelry and long hair away
from the engine air inlet piping. A
turbocharger compressor air inlet
protective shield should be installed over
the turbocharger air inlet to reduce the risk
of personal injury or death. Perform a complete inspection of the air
induction system annually.
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In areas where road salt is used,
disassemble the joints of each aluminum
component and inspect for salt build-up
and presence of chlorine that can cause
aluminum particles to flake off and enter
the engine combustion chambers. If
evidence of corrosion is found (usually at
the pipe connections), use a wire brush to
clean the inside of the pipes and inside the
rubber hoses.
If pitting is evident at the joint ends of the
intake pipes, use Motorcraft Silicone
Gasket and Sealant TA-30 to seal the
joints. Make sure no excess material, which
can pull into the engine, is on the inside of
the pipes. If the service condition of the
pipes, hoses or clamps is questionable,
replace the defective part(s).
Make sure to clean all dust and debris out
of the pipes and couplings with a clean,
damp rag before reassembly.
Chassis-mounted Charge Air
Cooler
Visually inspect the core assembly for
debris and clogging of external fins with
the engine off.
Before engine operation, remove any debris
blocking the core.
•
Turbocharger-to-charge air cooler.
• Charge air cooler-to-intake manifold
pipe.
• Mounting bracket.
• Chassis-mounted charge air cooler
core.
Inspect air intake piping:
• Check for accumulation of salt
deposits (where applicable). If present,
disassemble and clean the complete
air intake piping system. If pitting is
evident on the intake piping, use
Motorcraft Silicone Gasket and Sealant
TA-30 to seal joints against leakage.
• Check for loose hoses and clamps. •
Check for ruptured or collapsed hoses.
• Check air cleaner housing for cracks.
EXHAUST SYSTEM
INSPECTION
Note: If your vehicle is equipped with a
catalytic converter or muffler, do not blend
waste oil with diesel fuel. Operate only on
ultra-low sulfur (less than 15 parts per
million sulfur) diesel fuel with a cetane
value of 45 or higher.
If your diesel engine is equipped with a
catalytic converter, it is important to review
the maintenance schedule to make sure
proper functioning of the catalytic
converter. Also, take precautions not to
damage the catalytic converter when
servicing your engine or storing your
vehicle.
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any air tanks equipped with automatic
moisture ejector valves, as required, to
maintain a dry air system. Contact an
authorized dealer if you are unsure of the
air reservoir locations or the draining
procedure.
Hydraulic Brakes
Establish a regular schedule for periodic
cleaning, lubrication and adjustment
inspection based on vehicle use. Exact
maintenance intervals are difficult to
predetermine due to vehicle applications
and operating conditions. If you are
uncertain of the proper schedule for your
vehicle, contact an authorized dealer.
Regular inspections should include:
•
Checking the brake lining (every service
interval). Establish inspection intervals
that provide for lining replacement
before damage to the disc occurs.
Excessive lining wear may expose the
backing plate to the disc causing
scoring of the disc faces. A qualified
technician should perform this inspection and keep to instructions
provided by the service manual.
Hydraulic brake systems are
power-assisted. There is a great
reduction in braking capabilities
without engine assist.
• Proper fluid level. The level should be
at the bottom edge of the ring on each
reservoir fill port. Do not fill the master
cylinder to the top of the reservoir. If
fluid level requires attention to
maintain a proper master cylinder level,
this is an indication of either severe
operation (pad wear) or fluid leakage.
A more frequent and thorough brake
inspection is required.
• Brake lines, hoses and fittings. Repair
or replace brake line tubes, hoses or
fittings as required. Inspect these
components every 4,000 mi
(6,000 km) for the following.
• Lines for kinks, dents, corrosion or
rupture.
• Hoses for abrasions, kinks, soft
spots or rupture, collapse, cracks,
twists or loose frame supports.
When replacing a hose, be sure
there is adequate clearance to the
hose to avoid an abrasion to the
new hose.
• All connections for leaks.
Driveline Parking Brake WARNING
Use wheel chocks and exercise
caution when inspecting under the
vehicle. A vehicle roll-away could
result in property damage, personal injury
or death. A qualified technician should adjust the
parking brake and keep to the instructions
in the service manual.
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•
Maintaining proper steering gear and
power steering pump lubricant levels.
• Checking steering column joint bolts
and steering linkage, particularly for
body-to-chassis clearance.
Steering Column Joint Bolts
As a good maintenance practice, check
steering column joint bolt tightness every
60,000 mi (96,000 km) or annually,
whichever occurs first. Do not overtighten
the bolts.
Hydraulic System
Whenever draining and refilling the power
steering's hydraulic system for any reason,
bleed air from the system before returning
the vehicle to service. Failure to bleed the
hydraulic system properly can result in
degradation of power system performance.
Consult an authorized dealer who is aware
of the proper procedures for filling and
bleeding the system.
SUSPENSION SYSTEM
INSPECTION
Note: Do not adjust air suspension height
to any setting other than the specified
setting. Altering the height setting changes
the driveline angle and may result in
unwarrantable component damage, such
as transmission component damage.
Verify drive axle air suspension height and
height control valve performance at engine
oil change intervals.
Periodically check:
• Condition of spring leaves for evidence
of fatigue, bending or breakage.
• Condition of suspension mounting
brackets and bushings.
• Torque rod mounting fasteners for
tightness. •
For proper suspension alignment.
Maintain proper alignment at all times.
• U-bolts. After the chassis has been
operating under load for
1,000 mi
(1,600 km) or six months (whichever
comes first), the U-bolt nuts must be
re-torqued. Re-torque the U-bolt nuts
every
37,000 mi (60,000 km)
thereafter. Clean and lubricate the
U-bolt and nut threads and seats to
make sure a like new condition when
re-torqueing. See
Spring U-Bolt
Check (page 224).
FRAME AND TOW HOOK
INSPECTION
Your vehicle's chassis is manufactured
with frame rails of either HSLA steel or
heat-treated steel. Handle each in a
specific manner to make sure maximum
service life. Consult the service manual or
an authorized dealer before attempting
frame repair or modification.
It is important, particularly on vehicles that
use tow hooks frequently, to inspect the
front and rear tow hooks for damage or a
loose mounting.
REAR AXLE FLUID CHECK
Your rear axle may have an optional
synthetic lubricant that allows the use of
extended service intervals. A tag on the
filler plug identifies the use of the synthetic
lubricant.
Only use a lubricant that meets
manufacturer specifications. Only use a
lubricant that meets manufacturer
specifications. Use of a non-approved rear
axle lubricant may cause internal axle
component damage. See Capacities and
Specifications
(page 258).
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Checking the Fluid Level
1. Park your vehicle on level ground.
2. Set the parking brake and shift into
position neutral (N) or park (P). Turn
the engine off.
3. Clean any dirt from around the axle filler plug.
4. Remove the filler plug and inspect the lubricant level. It should be at the
bottom of the filler plug opening.
5. Add lubricant, if necessary, through the
filler plug opening.
6. Clean and install the filler plug securely.
Changing the Fluid
Note: Drain the rear axle while the lubricant
is warm.
1. Park your vehicle on level ground.
2. Set the parking brake and shift into position neutral (N) or park (P). Turn
the engine off.
3. Clean any dirt from around the axle filler and drain plugs.
4. Remove the filler and drain plugs. Drain
the lubricant into a suitable container.
Dispose of all used automotive fluids
in a responsible manner following your
local authorized standards.
5. Clean and install the drain plug securely.
6. Add lubricant through the filler plug opening.
7. Clean and install the filler plug securely.
SPRING U-BOLT CHECK
Check and tighten the U-bolt nuts after
your vehicle has been operated under load
for 1,000 mi (1,600 km) or six months,
whichever occurs first. Thereafter, install new U-bolt nuts and
washers every
36,000 mi (58,000 km).
Check and tighten the U-bolt nuts with
your vehicle at curb height and unloaded.
Inspect the U-bolt threads for rust and
debris. Clean the threads if contaminated.
U-bolt Nut Torque
Front Axle
Note: Check and tighten the U-bolt nuts
evenly using a criss-cross pattern in the
following stages. lb.ft (Nm)
Stage
40 (60)
1.
90 (125)
2.
170 (225)
3.
240 (325)
4.
Rear Axle
Note: Check and tighten the U-bolt nuts
evenly using a criss-cross pattern in the
following stages. lb.ft (Nm)
Stage
60 (75)
1.
90 (125)
2.
170 (225)
3.
240 (325)
4.
320 (440)
5.
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