2015 FORD F650 torque

the system with air from an outside source, releasing the spring-actuated
parking brakes. Your vehicle is now ready to tow in an emergency.
You can only use an outside air source if the protected system is in
operating condition. If you cannot restore air pressure in the protected
air system, you must release the spring-actuated brakes manually.
Releasing Spring Manually
WARNING:Do not attempt to disassemble the parking brake
chamber under any circumstances. The high spring load may
cause serious injury if the chamber clamps are removed.
If you release air pressure from the spring brake chamber, the power
spring applies the brake and, unless air pressure can be re-established,
you must release the spring brake as follows in order to move your
vehicle.
WARNING:Block the wheels to help prevent the vehicle from
moving.
WARNING:Unexpected and possibly sudden vehicle movement
may occur if these precautions are not taken.
Do not use impact wrenches as they may damage the piston and prevent
proper caging of the spring. Do not apply more than 50 foot-pounds
(68 newton-meters) torque to the release bolt nut.
1. Remove the stud tool and nut
from the carrying pocket on the
brake chamber assembly.
2. Remove the access plug from the
end of the spring chamber.
3. Insert the release stud through
the opening in the chamber and
into the spring pressure plate.
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Installing the Axle Shafts
1. Remove the covers from the wheel ends.
2. Shift the differential lock to the unlocked (disengaged) position.
3. Install the axle shafts.
•Place the gaskets on the wheel hub studs.
•Push the right-hand axle shaft and gasket into the wheel end and
housing until the shaft stops against the differential shift collar.
•Push down and in on the axle shaft flange and rotate the shaft
until the splines of the shaft and shift collar are engaged.
•Push the axle shaft further into the housing until the shaft stops
against the differential side gear.
•Push down on the axle shaft flange and rotate the shaft until the
splines of the shaft and side gear engage.
•Push the axle shaft completely into the housing until the axle
shaft flange and the gasket are flush against the wheel hub.
•Install the left-hand axle shaft and gasket into the wheel end.
4. If tapered dowels are required, install them at each stud and into the
flange of the axle shaft. Use a punch or drift and hammer, if needed.
5. Install the fasteners and tighten to correct torque value. See the
Workshop Manual.
174Towing
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Periodically check:
•Condition of spring leaves for evidence of fatigue, bending or
breakage.
•Condition of suspension mounting brackets and bushings.
•Torque rod mounting fasteners for tightness.
•For proper suspension alignment. Maintain proper alignment at all
times.
•U-bolts. After the chassis has been operating under load for
1000 miles (1600 kilometers) or six months (whichever comes first),
the U-bolt nuts must be re-torqued. Re-torque the U-bolt nuts every
36000 miles (60000 kilometers) thereafter. Clean and lubricate the
U-bolt and nut threads and seats to make sure a like new condition
when re-torqueing.
Note:SeeSpring U-bolt checklater in this chapter.
Supporting Your Vehicle for Service
WARNING:Do not use a jack when working under a vehicle. It
may give way, causing the vehicle to fall and result in property
damage, personal injury or death. Always use floor stands to support
the vehicle.
Prepare your vehicle for service repairs by doing the following:
1. Park your vehicle on a level, concrete floor.
2. Set the parking brake and block the wheels to prevent your vehicle
from moving.
3. Select a jack with a rated capacity sufficient to lift and hold up your
vehicle.
4. Raise your vehicle with the jack applied to the axle(s). Do not use
the bumper as a lifting point.
5. Support your vehicle with floor stands under the axle(s). When
servicing the axle or the suspension, support your vehicle with floor
stands under the frame side-members, preferably between the axles.
Frame and Tow Hooks
Your vehicle’s chassis is manufactured with frame rails of either HSLA
steel or heat-treated steel. Handle each in a specific manner to make
sure maximum service life. Consult the service manual or an authorized
dealer before attempting frame repair or modification.
It is important, particularly on vehicles that use tow hooks frequently, to
inspect the front and rear tow hooks for damage or a loose mounting.
Maintenance207
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SPRING U-BOLT CHECKS
Check U-bolt nuts and re-torque every 36000 miles (60000 kilometers)
after initial 1000-mile (1600 kilometer) re-torque. Clean and lubricate the
U-bolt and nut threads and seats to make sure they are in peak condition
when re-torqued.
U-bolt Nut Torque
Suspension ft-lb N•m
Front axle – 8500 lb (3856 kg) 180-200 244-271
Front axle – 10000 lb (4536 kg) and higher 260-300 353-407
Rear axle with multi-leaf 260-300 353-407
Rear axle with IROS air suspension 370-400 502-542
Rear axle with Hendrickson air suspension 400–450 542–610
See air suspension U-bolt re-torqueing and installation information below.
Air Suspension U-bolt Checks and Re-torqueing Procedures
1. Inspect the threads of the U-bolt and nut for rust and debris. Clean
the threads if contaminated.
2. Using a torque wrench, determine if you can turn any nuts with a
force below the specified torque.
3. Using the lowest discovered torqued nut as a starting point,
re-tighten the nuts using the sequence listed underAir suspension
U-bolt and U-bolt nut installation.
Air Suspension U-bolt and U-bolt Nut Installation
1. Inspect the threads of the U-bolt and nut for rust and debris. Clean
the threads if contaminated.
2. Install the U-bolts and nuts and torque the nuts to seat the cap flat
which is about 18 ft-lb (25 N•m) using a diagonal pattern. Use the
same diagonal pattern for each of the following U-bolt nut re-torque
steps.
3. Tighten U-bolt nuts in increments of 74 ft-lb (100 N•m) until
tightened to final torque for the particular suspension.
BRAKE FLUID CHECK
WARNING:Brake fluid is toxic. If brake fluid contacts the eyes,
flush eyes with running water for 15 minutes. Seek medical
attention if irritation persists. If taken internally, drink water and induce
vomiting. Seek medical attention immediately.
220Maintenance
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Oil-lubricated Front Wheel Bearings
During normal vehicle duty cycle, the lubricant and air inside the
hub/wheel cavity expands and, if not vented, causes pressure build-up
that could cause accelerated seal wear. You can use two venting methods
to prevent pressure build-up:
•A slit or small hole in the rubber check vent
•The window.
Over a period, if not routinely cleaned, a slight film of oil can collect dirt
around the rubber fill plug and face, which could appear to be a leak.
Routine cleaning helps make sure that you can easily observe the
lubricant level through the window as intended. In situations where the
window is clean on the outside but discolored on the inside, you can
check the lubricant level by inserting a finger through the rubber check
vent hole.
The specified lubricant level for a window-type hubcap is from the
minimum line to five–sixteenth inch (8 millimeters) above the minimum
line. If the lubricant level should suddenly drop dramatically below the
minimum level, see theWorkshop Manualfor diagnostic procedure.
Installation, Tightening and Alignment
Make sure the threads on the studs and nuts are clean to permit correct
torque when installing wheels. The mounting surfaces of rims, wheels,
spacer rings and clamps must be free of dirt, rust, lubricants or damage.
Use a wire brush to clean the mounting contact surfaces. Do not use
lubricant on threads.
After properly tightening the rim or wheel, check it for proper alignment.
Rotate the wheel with a piece of chalk attached to a steady, firm surface,
and placed to just barely clear the outside surface of the tire bead seat;
this procedure points out the high spot. A high spot does not necessarily
indicate unevenly tightened lug nuts, but may be the result of a bent
wheel.
Use the following installation procedure:
1. Slide inner rear or front tire and wheel in position over studs and push
it back as far as possible. Use care so you do not damage the threads on
the studs.
250Wheels and Tires
2015 F-650/750(f67)
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Note for aluminum wheels:Clean each wheel locator pad on the hub
from all dirt, rust and foreign material prior to re-installing rear
aluminum hub-piloted wheels. Apply a light coat of chassis grease,
never-seize or disc brake corrosion control grease, only to the wheel
locator pad.
3. Run the nuts on the studs until they contact the wheel(s). Rotate the
wheel assembly a half-turn to permit the parts to seat.
4. Draw-up the nuts alternately following the crisscross sequence
illustrated under the following wheel tightening sequence illustrations.
Do not fully tighten the nuts. This allows uniform seating of the nuts and
makes sure even face-to-face contact of the wheel and hub.
8–lug wheel
10–lug wheel
5. Continue tightening the nuts to the torque specifications in the torque
chart using the same crisscross sequence shown.
6. After operating the vehicle approximately 50 miles (80 kilometers),
check the nuts for tightness. You may encounter some natural seating of
parts and the torque on the nuts can drop. Retighten all nuts to
specifications.
Once a week, inspect and retighten the wheel stud nuts.
252Wheels and Tires
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Note:Make sure the tire valve stem clears the brake caliper when
installing the tire and rim assembly on disc-brake equipped axles. The
use of a tire manufacturer’s stem forming tool is the only acceptable
method of obtaining clearance when necessary.
Proper Torque
It is important to tighten and maintain wheel and rim mounting nuts to
the proper torque. Loose nuts or over-tightened nuts can lead to
premature wear and possible failure of the wheel or mounting hardware.
Changing Wheel Types
WARNING:Use only the same type and style wheels and
mounting hardware to replace original parts. Failure to do so may
result in an assembly that looks fine, but does not fit together properly.
This could possibly cause wheel or fastener failures which could result
in property damage, personal injury or death.
Note:Do not attempt to mix stud-piloted wheels or fasteners with
hub-piloted wheels or fasteners.
Note:Do not change from aluminum wheels to steel wheels or
vice-versa without changing the mounting hardware required or, with
flange nut mounting systems, changing the hub and stud assembly.
Consult your dealer or wheel or rim distributor before attempting any
wheel or fastener changes.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Wheel Lug Nut Torque Specifications
Note:Do not use lubrication on dry threads. Where excessive corrosion
exists, you can apply a light coat of lubricant on the first three threads
of the stud bolt. Keep lubricant away from the:
•Hex nut and rim clamp contact surfaces.
•Cap nut ball face and ball seat on the disc wheel.
•Flange nut washer surface and flat on the disc wheel.
Size Nut MountingTorque
ft-lb N•m
22 mm Flange 450–500 610–678
Wheels and Tires253
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Description Capacity - Pints (Liters)
6–speed manual 19.5 (9.2)
7–speed manual 22.0 (10.4)
*Total fluid capacity (dry transmission and torque converter).
Rear Axle
Eaton-Spicer
Axle CodeWeight Capacity - lb
(kg)DescriptionCapacity -
Pints
(Liters)
*
S135–S 13500 (6123) Single reduction 24.5 (11.6)
4S150–S 15500 (7031) Single reduction 24.5 (11.6)
17060S 17500 (7938) Single reduction 28.0 (13.2)
19055T 17500 (7938) Two-speed 28.0 (13.2)
19060S 19000 (8618) Single reduction 28.0 (13.2)
M190T 19000 (8618) Two-speed 35.0 (17.0)
21060S 21000 (9525) Single reduction 28.0 (13.2)
21060D 21000 (9525) Single reduction,
driver-controlled
locking differential28.0 (13.2)
M210T 21000 (9525) Two-speed 16.0 (33.0)
23090S 23000 (10432) Single reduction 39.0 (18.5)
23090D 23000 (10432) Single reduction,
driver-controlled
locking differential39.0 (18.5)
23082T 23000 (10432) Two-speed 37.0 (17.5)
*Quantities listed are approximate. Fill the axle until the lubricant level is
at the bottom of the filler hole, with the vehicle on level ground.
When removing the hubs, add an additional 1.6 pints (0.75 liters) of axle
lubricant. Add lubricant through the axle vent.
Capacities and Specifications269
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