2014 YAMAHA WR 250F lock

5-55
ENGINE REMOVAL
Disconnect the AC magneto lead.
Negative battery lead Disconnect at the engine side.
1 Engine guard 1
2 Neutral switch 1
3 Drive chain sprocket cover 1
4 Nut (drive sprocket) 1 Refer to removal section.
5 Lock washer 1 Refer to removal section.
6 Drive sprocket 1 Refer to removal section.
7Clip 1
8 Bolt (brake pedal) 1
9 Brake pedal 1
10 Upper engine bracket 2
11 Lower engine bracket 2
12 Engine mounting bolt 3
13 Pivot shaft 1 Refer to removal section.
14 Engine 1 Refer to removal section. Order Part name Q'ty Remarks

5-56
ENGINE REMOVAL
HANDLING NOTE
Support the machine securely so
there is no danger of it falling over.
REMOVING THE DRIVE
SPROCKET
1. Remove:
• Nut (drive sprocket) "1"
• Lock washer "2"
• Straighten the lock washer tab.
• Loosen the nut while applying the
rear brake.
2. Remove:
• Drive sprocket "1"
• Drive chain "2"
Remove the drive sprocket together
with the drive chain.
REMOVING THE ENGINE
1. Remove:
• Pivot shaft "1"
If the pivot shaft is pulled all the way
out, the swingarm will come loose. If
possible, insert a shaft of similar di-
ameter into the other side of the
swingarm to support it.
2. Remove:
• Engine "1"
From right side.
Make sure that the couplers, hoses
and cables are disconnected.
INSTALLING THE ENGINE
1. Install:
• Engine "1"
Install the engine from right side.
• Pivot shaft "2"
• Engine mounting bolt (lower) "3"
• Lower engine bracket "4"
• Bolt (lower engine bracket) "5"
• Patch "6"
• Engine mounting bolt (front) "7"
• Upper engine bracket "8"
• Bolt (upper engine bracket) "9"
• Engine mounting bolt (upper) "10"
• Lower engine guard "11"
• Bolt (lower engine guard) "12"
• Apply the molybdenum disulfide
grease on the pivot shaft.
• Install the patch with the claw "a"
facing outside the chassis.
INSTALLING THE BRAKE PEDAL
1. Install:
• Spring "1"
• Brake pedal "2"
• O-ring "3"
• Bolt (brake pedal) "4"
• Clip "5"
Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the bolt, O-rings and brake pedal
bracket.
INSTALLING THE DRIVE
SPROCKET
1. Install:
• Drive sprocket "1"
• Drive chain "2"
Install the drive sprocket together
with the drive chain.
Pivot shaft:
85 Nm (8.5 m•kg, 61
ft•lb)
Engine mounting bolt
(lower):
53Nm (5.3 m•kg, 38
ft•lb)
Bolt (lower engine brack-
et):
34 Nm (3.4 m•kg, 24
ft•lb)
Engine mounting bolt
(front):
53 Nm (5.3 m•kg, 38
ft•lb)
Bolt (upper engine brack-
et):
34 Nm (3.4 m•kg, 24
ft•lb)
Engine mounting bolt
(upper):
55 Nm (5.5 m•kg, 40
ft•lb)
Bolt (lower engine
guard):
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1
ft•lb)
Bolt (brake pedal):
26 Nm (2.6 m•kg, 19
ft•lb)

5-57
ENGINE REMOVAL
2. Install:
• Lock washer "1"
• Nut (drive sprocket) "2"
Tighten the nut while applying the
rear brake.
3. Bend the lock washer tab to lock
the nut.
4. Install:
• Drive chain sprocket guide "1"
• Drive chain sprocket cover "2"
• Bolt (drive chain sprocket cover)
"3"
INSTALLING THE NEUTRAL
SWITCH
1. Install:
• Spring "1"
•Pin "2"
• O-ring "3"
• Neutral switch "4"
• Screw (neutral switch) "5"
Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the O-ring.
Nut (drive sprocket):
75 Nm (7.5 m•kg, 54
ft•lb)
Bolt (drive chain sprock-
et cover):
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1
ft•lb)
Screw (neutral switch):
4 Nm (0.4 m•kg, 2.9
ft•lb)

6-5
FRONT WHEEL AND REAR WHEEL
2. Install:
• Brake disc "1"
• Bolt (brake disc) "2"
Tighten the bolts in stage, using a
crisscross pattern.
3. Install:
• Rear wheel sprocket "1"
• Bolt (rear wheel sprocket) "2"
• Washer (rear wheel sprocket) "3"
• Nut (rear wheel sprocket) "4"
Tighten the nuts in stage, using a
crisscross pattern.
4. Install:
•Collar "1"
Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the oil seal lip.
5. Install:
• Wheel
Install the brake disc "1" between the
brake pads "2" correctly.
6. Install:
• Drive chain "1"
Push the wheel "2" forward and install
the drive chain.
7. Install:
• Left drive chain puller "1"
• Wheel axle "2"
• Install the left drive chain puller, and
insert the wheel axle from left side.
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the wheel axle.
8. Install:
• Right drive chain puller "1"
• Washer "2"
• Nut (wheel axle) "3"
Temporarily tighten the nut (wheel
axle) at this point.
9. Adjust:
• Drive chain slack "a"
Refer to "ADJUSTING THE
DRIVE CHAIN SLACK" section in
the CHAPTER 3.
10. Tighten:
• Nut (wheel axle) "1"
• Locknut "2" Bolt (brake disc):
14 Nm (1.4 m•kg, 10
ft•lb)
Nut (rear wheel sprock-
et):
50 Nm (5.0 m•kg, 36
ft•lb)
Drive chain slack:
48.0–58.0 mm (1.89–
2.28 in)
Nut (wheel axle):
125 Nm (12.5 m•kg, 90
ft•lb)
Locknut:
19 Nm (1.9 m•kg, 13
ft•lb)

6-10
FRONT BRAKE AND REAR BRAKE
HANDLING NOTE
Support the machine securely so
there is no danger of it falling over.
DRAINING THE BRAKE FLUID
1. Remove:
• Brake master cylinder cap "1"
• Protector (rear brake)
Do not remove the diaphragm.
A. Front
B. Rear
2. Connect the transparent hose "2"
to the bleed screw "1" and place a
suitable container under its end.
A. Front
B. Rear
3. Loosen the bleed screw and drain
the brake fluid while pulling the le-
ver in or pushing down on the
pedal.
• Do not reuse the drained brake
fluid.
• Brake fluid may erode painted
surfaces or plastic parts. Always
clean up spilled fluid immediate-
ly.
REMOVING THE BRAKE CALIPER
PISTON
1. Remove:
• Brake caliper piston
Use compressed air and proceed
carefully.
• Cover piston with rag and use ex-
treme caution when expelling
piston from cylinder.
• Never attempt to pry out piston.
Caliper piston removal steps:
a. Insert a piece of rag into the brake
caliper to lock one brake caliper.
b. Carefully force the piston out of
the brake caliper cylinder with
compressed air.
A. Front
B. Rear
REMOVING THE BRAKE CALIPER
PISTON SEAL KIT
1. Remove:
• Brake caliper piston dust seal "1"
• Brake caliper piston seal "2"
Remove the brake caliper piston
seals and brake caliper piston dust
seals by pushing them with a finger.
Never attempt to pry out brake cal-
iper piston seals and brake caliper
piston dust seals.
Replace the brake caliper piston
seals and brake caliper piston dust
seals whenever a caliper is disas-
sembled.
A. Front
B. Rear
CHECKING THE BRAKE MASTER
CYLINDER
1. Inspect:
• Brake master cylinder inner sur-
face "a"
Wear/scratches → Replace mas-
ter cylinder assembly.
Stains→Clean.
Use only new brake fluid.
A. Front
B. Rear
2. Inspect:
• Diaphragm "1"
Crack/damage→Replace.
A. Front
B. Rear

6-15
FRONT BRAKE AND REAR BRAKE
FILLING THE BRAKE FLUID
1. Fill:
• Brake fluid
Until the fluid level reaches
"LOWER" level line "a".
• Use only the designated quality
brake fluid:
otherwise, the rubber seals may
deteriorate, causing leakage and
poor brake performance.
• Refill with the same type of brake
fluid;
mixing fluids may result in a
harmful chemical reaction and
lead to poor performance.
• Be careful that water does not
enter the master cylinder when
refilling. Water will significantly
lower the boiling point of the flu-
id and may result in vapor lock.
Brake fluid may erode painted sur-
faces or plastic parts. Always
clean up spilled fluid immediately.
A. Front
B. Rear
2. Air bleed:
• Brake system
Refer to "BLEEDING THE HY-
DRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM" sec-
tion in the CHAPTER 3.
3. Inspect:
• Brake fluid level
Fluid at lower level→Fill up.
Refer to "CHECKING THE
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL" section in
the CHAPTER 3.4. Install:
• Reservoir float (front brake)
• Diaphragm
• Brake master cylinder cap "1"
• Screw (bolt) {brake master cylin-
der cap} "2"
After installation, while pulling the
brake lever in or pushing down on
the brake pedal, check whether
there is any brake fluid leaking
where the union bolts are installed
respectively at the brake master
cylinder and brake caliper.
A. Front
B. Rear
5. Install: (rear brake only)
• Protector "1"
• Bolt (protector) "2" Recommended brake flu-
id:
DOT #4
Screw (bolt) {brake mas-
ter cylinder cap}:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Bolt (protector):
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1
ft•lb)

6-18
FRONT FORK
HANDLING NOTE
Support the machine securely so
there is no danger of it falling over.
The front fork requires careful atten-
tion. So it is recommended that the
front fork be maintained at the deal-
ers.
To prevent an accidental explosion
of air, the following instructions
should be observed:
• The front fork with a built-in pis-
ton rod has a very sophisticated
internal construction and is par-
ticularly sensitive to foreign ma-
terial. Use enough care not to
allow any foreign material to
come in when the oil is replaced
or when the front fork is disas-
sembled and reassembled.
• Before removing the cap bolts or
front forks, be sure to extract the
air from the air chamber com-
pletely.
REMOVING THE FRONT FORK
CAP BOLT
1. Remove:
• Front fork cap bolt "1"
From the outer tube.
Before removing the front fork from
the machine, loosen the front fork cap
bolt.
2. Remove:
• Front fork cap bolt "1"
Hold the locknut "2" and remove the
front fork cap bolt.
REMOVING THE INNER TUBE
1. Remove:
• Dust seal "1"
• Stopper ring "2"
Using slotted-head screwdriver.
Take care not to scratch the inner
tube.
2. Remove:
• Inner tube "1"
Oil seal removal steps:
a. Push in slowly "a" the inner tube
just before it bottoms out and then
pull it back quickly "b".
b. Repeat this step until the inner
tube can be pulled out from the
outer tube.
REMOVING THE DAMPER ROD
1. Remove:
• Base valve "1"
• Damper rod "2"
Use a damper rod holder "3" to lock
the damper rod.
CHECKING THE DAMPER ROD
1. Inspect:
• Damper rod "1"
Bend/damage→Replace damper
rod.
The front fork with a built-in piston
rod has a very sophisticated inter-
nal construction and is particularly
sensitive to foreign material.
Use enough care not to allow any
foreign material to come in when
the oil is replaced or when the
front fork is disassembled and re-
assembled.
CHECKING THE BASE VALVE
1. Inspect:
• Valve assembly "1"
Wear/damage →Replace.
• O-ring "2"
Damage→ Replace.
CHECKING THE FORK SPRING
1. Measure:
• Fork spring free length "a"
Out of specification→Replace.
Damper rod holder:
YM-01494/90890-01494
Fork spring free length:
460.0 mm (18.11 in)
: 455.0 mm
(17.91 in)

6-19
FRONT FORK
CHECKING THE INNER TUBE
1. Inspect:
• Inner tube surface "a"
Score marks→Repair or replace.
Use #1,000 grit wet sandpaper.
Damaged oil lock piece→Re-
place.
• Inner tube bends
Out of specification→Replace.
Use the dial gauge "1".
The bending value is shown by one
half of the dial gauge reading.
Do not attempt to straighten a bent
inner tube as this may dangerous-
ly weaken the tube.
CHECKING THE OUTER TUBE
1. Inspect:
• Outer tube "1"
Score marks/wear/damage→Re-
place.
CHECKING THE FRONT FORK
CAP BOLT
1. Inspect:
• Front fork cap bolt "1"
• O-ring "2"
• Air bleed screw "3"
Wear/damage→Replace.ASSEMBLING THE FRONT FORK
1. Wash the all parts in a clean sol-
vent.
2. Install:
• Damper rod "1"
To inner tube "2".
To install the damper rod into the
inner tube, hold the inner tube
aslant. If the inner tube is held ver-
tically, the damper rod may fall into
it, damaging the valve inside.
3. Install:
• Copper washer "1"
• O-ring "2"
• Base valve "3"
To inner tube "4".
4. Tighten:
• Base valve "1"
• Use a damper rod holder "2" to lock
the damper rod "3".
• Apply the LOCTITE
® on the base
valve thread.
5. Install:
• Spring guide "1"
• Locknut "2"
To damper rod "3".
• Install the spring guide with its
smaller dia.end "a" facing down-
ward.
• With its thread "b" facing upward,
fully finger tighten the locknut onto
the damper rod.
6. Install:
• Dust seal "1"
• Stopper ring "2"
• Oil seal "3"
• Oil seal washer "4"
• Slide metal "5"
To inner tube "6".
• Apply the fork oil on the inner tube.
• When installing the oil seal, use vi-
nyl seat "a" with fork oil applied to
protect the oil seal lip.
• Install the oil seal with its manufac-
ture's marks or number facing the
axle holder side.
• Install the oil seal washer with its
projections "b" facing upward.
Inner tube bending limit:
0.2 mm (0.01 in)
Base valve:
55 Nm (5.5 m•kg, 40
ft•lb)
Damper rod holder:
YM-01494/90890-01494