2013 YAMAHA WR 250F light

5-23
VALVES AND VALVE SPRINGS
3. Inspect:
• Valve face
Pitting/wear→Grind the face.
• Valve stem end
Mushroom shape or diameter
larger than the body of the stem→
Replace.
4. Measure:
• Margin thickness "a"
Out of specification→Replace.
5. Measure:
• Runout (valve stem)
Out of specification→Replace.
• When installing a new valve always
replace the guide.
• If the valve is removed or replaced
always replace the oil seal.
6. Eliminate:
• Carbon deposits
(from the valve face and valve
seat)
7. Inspect:
• Valve seat
Pitting/wear→Reface the valve
seat.
8. Measure:
• Valve seat width "a"
Out of specification→Reface the
valve seat.
Measurement steps:
a. Apply Mechanic's blueing dye
(Dykem) "b" to the valve face.
b. Install the valve into the cylinder
head.
c. Press the valve through the valve
guide and onto the valve seat to
make a clear pattern.
d. Measure the valve seat width.
Where the valve seat and valve
face made contact, blueing will
have been removed.
e. If the valve seat is too wide, too
narrow, or the seat is not cen-
tered, the valve seat must be
refaced.
9. Lap:
• Valve face
• Valve seat
This model uses titanium intake
and exhaust valves. Titanium
valves that have been used to lap
the valve seats must not be used.
Always replace lapped valves with
new valves.
• When replacing the cylinder head,
replace the valves without lapping
the valve seats and valve faces.• When replacing the valves or valve
guides, use new valves to lap the
valve seats, and then replace them
with new valves.
Lapping steps:
a. Apply a coarse lapping compound
to the valve face.
Do not let the compound enter the
gap between the valve stem and
the guide.
b. Apply molybdenum disulfide oil to
the valve stem.
c. Install the valve into the cylinder
head.
d. Turn the valve until the valve face
and valve seat are evenly pol-
ished, then clean off all of the
compound.
For best lapping results, lightly tap
the valve seat while rotating the valve
back and forth between your hands.
e. Apply a fine lapping compound to
the valve face and repeat the
above steps.
After every lapping operation be sure
to clean off all of the compound from
the valve face and valve seat.
f. Apply Mechanic's blueing dye
(Dykem) to the valve face.
g. Install the valve into the cylinder
head. Margin thickness:
Intake:
0.8 mm (0.0315 in)
Exhaust:
0.7 mm (0.0276 in)
Runout limit:
0.01 mm (0.0004 in)
Valve seat width:
Intake:
0.9–1.1 mm (0.0354–
0.0433 in)
:1.6 mm
(0.0630 in)
Exhaust:
0.9–1.1 mm (0.0354–
0.0433 in)
:1.6 mm
(0.0630 in)

5-24
VALVES AND VALVE SPRINGS
h. Press the valve through the valve guide and onto the valve seat to
make a clear pattern.
i. Measure the valve seat width
again. If the valve seat width is out
of specification, reface and relap
the valve seat.
CHECKING THE VALVE SPRINGS
1. Measure:
• Valve spring free length "a"Out of specification →Replace.
2. Measure: • Compressed spring force "a"Out of specification →Replace.
b. Installed length
3. Measure: • Spring tilt "a"Out of specification →Replace. CHECKING THE
VALVE LIFTERS
1. Inspect: • Valve lifterScratches/damage →Replace
both lifters and cylinder head.
INSTALLING THE VALVES
1. Apply: • Molybdenum disulfide oilOnto the valve stem and valve
stem seal.
2. Install: • Valve "1"
• Valve spring seat "2"
• Valve stem seal "3"
• Valve spring "4"
• Valve spring retainer "5"To cylinder head.
• Make sure that each valve is in-stalled in its original place, also re-
ferring to the painted color as
follows.
Intake (middle) "a": Orange
Intake (right/left) "b": Green
Exhaust "c": Purple
• Install the valve springs with the larger pitch "d" facing upward.
e. Smaller pitch 3. Install:
• Valve cotter
Install the valve cotters by compress-
ing the valve spring with the valve
spring compressor “1” and the valve
spring compressor attachment “2”.
4. To secure the valve cotters onto
the valve stem, lightly tap the
valve tip with a piece of wood.
Hitting the valve tip with excessive
force could damage the valve.
5. Install:• Adjusting pad "1"
• Valve lifter "2"
• Apply the molybdenum disulfide oil on the valve stem end.
• Apply the engine oil on the valve lift- ers.
• Valve lifter must turn smoothly when rotated with a finger.
• Be careful to reinstall valve lifters and pads in their original place.
Free length (valve
spring): Intake:36.58 mm (1.44 in)
: 35.58 mm
(1.40 in)
Exhaust: 37.54 mm (1.48 in)
: 36.54 mm
(1.44 in)
Compressed spring
force: Intake:113.00–118.60 N at
29.13 mm (10.50–
12.09 kg at 29.13 mm,
23.15–26.66 lb at 1.15
in)
Exhaust: 126.00–144.00 N at
29.30 mm (12.85–
14.68 kg at 29.30 mm,
28.32–32.37 lb at 1.15
in)
Spring tilt limit: Intake:2.5°/1.6 mm (0.063 in)
Exhaust: 2.5°/1.6 mm (0.063 in)
Valve spring compres-
sor:
YM-4019/90890-04019
Valve spring compressor
adapter 19.5 mm: YM-04114
Valve spring compressor
attachment: 90890-04114

5-61
CRANKCASE AND CRANKSHAFT
DISASSEMBLING THE
CRANKCASE
1. Separate:
• Right crankcase
• Left crankcase
Separation steps:
a. Remove the crankcase bolts "1",
hose guide "2" and clutch cable
holder "3".
Loosen each bolt 1/4 of a turn at a
time and after all the bolts are loos-
ened, remove them.
b. Remove the right crankcase "4".
• Place the crankcase with its left
side downward and split it by insert-
ing a screwdriver tip into the split-
ting slit "a" in the crankcase.
• Lift the right crankcase horizontally
while lightly patting the case split-
ting slit and engine mounting boss
using a soft hammer, and leave the
crankshaft and transmission with
the left crankcase.
Use soft hammer to tap on the
case half. Tap only on reinforced
portions of case. Do not tap on
gasket mating surface. Work slow-
ly and carefully. Make sure the
case halves separate evenly. If the
cases do not separate, check for a
remaining case bolt or fitting. Do
not force.
c. Remove the dowel pins and O-
ring.
REMOVING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Remove:
• Crankshaft "1"
Use the crankcase separating
tool "2".
Do not use a hammer to drive out
the crankshaft.
REMOVING THE CRANKCASE
BEARING
1. Remove:
•Bearing "1"
• Remove the bearing from the
crankcase by pressing its inner
race.
• Do not use the removed bearing.
CHECKING THE TIMING CHAIN
AND TIMING CHAIN GUIDE
1. Inspect:
• Timing chain
Cracks/stiff→Replace the timing
chain and camshaft sprocket as a
set.
2. Inspect:
• Timing chain guide
Wear/damage→Replace.CHECKING THE CRANKCASE
1. Inspect:
• Contacting surface "a"
Scratches→Replace.
• Engine mounting boss "b", crank-
case
Cracks/damage→Replace.
2. Inspect:
• Bearing
Rotate inner race with a finger.
Rough spot/seizure→Replace.
3. Inspect:
• Oil seal
Damage→Replace.
CHECKING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Measure:
• Runout limit "a"
• Small end free play limit "b"
• Connecting rod big end side
clearance "c"
• Crank width "d"
Out of specification→Replace.
Use the dial gauge and a thick-
ness gauge.
Crankcase separating
tool:
YU-1135-A/90890-
01135
Dial gauge and stand:
YU-3097/90890-01252
Standard
Run-
out
limit:0.03 mm (0.0012
in)0.05
mm
(0.002
in)
Small
end
free
play:0.4–1.0 mm
(0.016–0.039 in)2.0 mm
(0.08 in)
Side
clear-
ance:0.15–0.45 mm
(0.0059–0.0177
in)0.50
mm
(0.02 in)
Crack
width:55.95–56.00
mm (2.203–
2.205 in)—

5-63
CRANKCASE AND CRANKSHAFT
5. Install:
• Dowel pin "1"
• O-ring "2"
• Right crankcase
To left crankcase.
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the O-ring.
• Fit the right crankcase onto the left
crankcase. Tap lightly on the case
with soft hammer.
• When installing the crankcase, the
connecting rod should be posi-
tioned at TDC (top dead center).
6. Tighten:
• Hose guide "1"
• Clutch cable holder "2"
• Bolt (crankcase) "3"
Tighten the crankcase tightening
bolts in stage, using a crisscross pat-
tern.
7. Install:
• Oil delivery pipe 2 "1"
• O-ring "2"
• Bolt (oil delivery pipe 2) "3"
Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the Orings.
8. Install:
• Timing chain "1"
• Timing chain guide (intake side)
"2"
• Bolt (timing chain guide) "3"
9. Remove:
• Sealant
Forced out on the cylinder mating
surface.
10. Apply:
• Engine oil
To the crank pin, bearing and oil
delivery hole.
11. Check:
• Crankshaft and transmission op-
eration.
Unsmooth operation→Repair. Bolt (crankcase):
12 Nm (1.2 m•kg, 8.7
ft•lb)
Bolt (oil delivery pipe 2):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Bolt (timing chain guide):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)

5-65
TRANSMISSION, SHIFT CAM AND SHIFT FORK
REMOVING THE TRANSMISSION
1. Remove:
• Main axle "1"
• Drive axle "2"
• Shift cam
• Shift fork 3
• Shift fork 2
• Shift fork 1
• Remove assembly with the collar
"3" installed to the crankcase.
• Remove assembly carefully. Note
the position of each part. Pay partic-
ular attention to the location and di-
rection of shift forks.
• Remove the main axle, drive axle,
shift cam and shift fork all together
by tapping lightly on the transmis-
sion drive axle with a soft hammer.
CHECKING THE GEARS
1. Inspect:
• Matching dog "a"
• Gear teeth "b"
• Shift fork groove "c"
Wear/damage→Replace.
2. Inspect:
• O-ring "1"
Damage→Replace.
3. Check:
• Gears movement
Unsmooth movement→Repair or
replace.CHECKING THE BEARING
1. Inspect:
•Bearing "1"
Rotate inner race with a finger.
Rough spot/seizure→Replace.
CHECKING THE SHIFT FORK,
SHIFT CAM AND SEGMENT
1. Inspect:
• Shift fork "1"
Wear/damage/scratches→Re-
place.
2. Inspect:
• Shift cam "1"
• Segment "2"
Wear/damage→Replace.
3. Check:
• Shift fork movement
Unsmooth operation→Replace
shift fork.
For a malfunctioning shift fork, re-
place not only the shift fork itself but
the two gears each adjacent to the
shift fork.
INSTALLING THE TRANSMISSION
1. Install:
• 5th pinion gear (19T) "1"
• 3rd pinion gear (17T) "2"
•Collar "3"
• 4th pinion gear (21T) "4"
• 2nd pinion gear (16T) "5"
To main axle "6".
Apply the molybdenum disulfide oil
on the inner and end surface of the
idler gear and on the inner surface of
the sliding gear, then install.
2. Install:
• 2nd wheel gear (28T) "1"
• 4th wheel gear (23T) "2"
• 3rd wheel gear (23T) "3"
• 5th wheel gear (17T) "4"
• 1st wheel gear (31T) "5"
• O-ring "6"
To drive axle "7".
• Apply the molybdenum disulfide oil
on the inner and end surface of the
idler gear and on the inner surface
of the sliding gear, then install.
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the O-ring.

6-13
FRONT BRAKE AND REAR BRAKE
A. Front
B. Rear
INSTALLING THE FRONT BRAKE
MASTER CYLINDER
1. Install:
• Brake master cylinder "1"
• Brake master cylinder bracket "2"
• Bolt (brake master cylinder brack-
et) "3"
• Install the bracket so that the arrow
mark "a" face upward.
• First tighten the bolts on the upper
side of the brake master cylinder
bracket, and then tighten the bolts
on the lower side.
2. Install:
• Brake lever "1"
• Bolt (brake lever) "2"• Nut (brake lever) "3"
Apply the silicone grease on the
brake lever sliding surface, bolt and
contacting surface of the brake mas-
ter cylinder piston.
INSTALLING THE REAR BRAKE
MASTER CYLINDER
1. Install:
• Copper washer "1"
• Brake hose "2"
• Union bolt "3"
Always use new copper washers.
Install the brake hose so that its
pipe portion "a" directs as shown
and lightly touches the projection
"b" on the brake master cylinder.
2. Install:
• Brake master cylinder "1"
• Bolt (brake master cylinder) "2"
3. Install:
• Spring "1"
• Brake pedal "2"
• O-ring "3"
• Bolt (brake pedal) "4"
• Clip "5"
Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the bolt, O-ring and brake pedal
bracket.
4. Install:
•Pin "1"
• Washer "2"
• Cotter pin "3"
After installing, check the brake pedal
height. Refer to "ADJUSTING THE
REAR BRAKE" section in the CHAP-
TER 3.
Bolt (brake master cylin-
der bracket):
9 Nm (0.9 m•kg, 6.5
ft•lb)
Bolt (brake lever):
6 Nm (0.6 m•kg, 4.3
ft•lb)
Nut (brake lever):
6 Nm (0.6 m•kg, 4.3
ft•lb)
Union bolt:
30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22
ft•lb)
Bolt (brake master cylin-
der):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Bolt (brake pedal):
26 Nm (2.6 m•kg, 19
ft•lb)

6-14
FRONT BRAKE AND REAR BRAKE
INSTALLING THE FRONT BRAKE
HOSE
1. Install:
• Copper washer "1"
• Brake hose "2"
• Union bolt "3"
Always use new copper washers.
Install the brake hose so that its
pipe portion "a" directs as shown
and lightly touches the projection
"b" on the brake caliper.
2. Install:
• Brake hose holder "1"
• Bolt (brake hose holder) "2"
3. Install:
• Brake hose holder "1"
• Nut (brake hose holder) "2"
Align the top "a" of the brake hose
holder with the paint "b" of the brake
hose.
4. Pass the brake hose through the
front brake hose guides "1".
5. Install:
• Copper washer "1"
• Brake hose "2"
• Union bolt "3"
Always use new copper washers.
Install the brake hose so that it
contacts the brake master cylinder
projection "a" and that its bent
portion "b" faces downward.
INSTALLING THE REAR BRAKE
HOSE
1. Install:
• Copper washer "1"
• Brake hose "2"
• Union bolt "3"
Always use new copper washers.
Install the brake hose so that its
pipe portion "a" directs as shown
and lightly touches the projection
"b" on the brake caliper.
2. Install:
• Brake hose holder "1"
• Screw (brake hose holder) "2"
After installing the brake hose
holders, make sure the brake hose
does not contact the spring (rear
shock absorber). If it does, correct
its twist.
Union bolt:
30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22
ft•lb)
Bolt (brake hose holder):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Nut (brake hose holder):
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1 ft
•lb)
Union bolt:
30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22
ft•lb)
Union bolt:
30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22
ft•lb)
Screw (brake hose hold-
er):
3 Nm (0.3 m•kg, 2.2
ft•lb)

6-16
FRONT FORK
FRONT FORK
REMOVING THE FRONT FORK
Order Part name Q'ty Remarks
A. For CDN
Hold the machine by placing the suitable stand
under the engine.Refer to "HANDLING NOTE".
Front wheel Refer to "FRONT WHEEL AND REAR
WHEEL" section.
Front brake caliper Refer to "FRONT BRAKE AND REAR
BRAKE" section.
Headlight
Handlebar Refer to "HANDLEBAR" section.
1 Protector 1
2 Pinch bolt (upper bracket) 2 Only loosening.
3 Cap bolt 1 Loosen when disassembling the front fork.
4 Pinch bolt (lower bracket) 2 Only loosening.
5 Front fork 1