2013 YAMAHA WR 250F checking oil

5-40
BALANCER
REMOVING THE BALANCER
1. Straighten the lock washer tab.
2. Loosen:
• Nut (primary drive gear) "1"
• Nut (balancer shaft driven gear)
"2"
Place an aluminum plate "a" between
the teeth of the balancer shaft drive
gear "3" and driven gear "4".
3. Remove:
• Balancer shaft "1"
When removing the balancer shaft,
align the center "a" of the balancer
shaft weight along the line connecting
the centers of the crankshaft and bal-
ancer shaft.
CHECKING THE PRIMARY DRIVE
GEAR, BALANCER SHAFT DRIVE
GEAR AND BALANCER SHAFT
DRIVEN GEAR
1. Inspect:
• Primary drive gear "1"
• Balancer shaft drive gear "2"
• Balancer shaft driven gear "3"
Wear/damage→Replace.CHECKING THE BALANCER
SHAFT
1. Inspect:
• Balancer shaft
Cracks/damage→Replace.
INSTALLING THE BALANCER
1. Install:
• Balancer shaft "1"
• Apply the engine oil on the bearing.
• When installing the balancer shaft,
align the center "a" of the balancer
shaft weight along the line connect-
ing the centers of the crankshaft
and balancer shaft.
2. Install:
• Balancer shaft driven gear "1"
Install the balancer shaft driven gear
onto the balancer shaft while aligning
the punch mark "a" on the balancer
shaft driven gear with the lower spline
"b" on the balancer shaft end.
3. Install:
• Balancer shaft drive gear "1"
• Align the punched mark "a" on the
balancer shaft drive gear with the
punched mark "b" on the balancer
shaft driven gear "2".
• Align the punched mark "c" on the
balancer shaft drive gear with the
lower spline "d" on the crankshaft
end.
4. Install:
• Lock washer "1"
• Nut (balancer shaft driven gear)
"2"
• Primary drive gear "3"
• Lock washer "4"
• Nut (primary drive gear) "5"
• Install the primary drive gear with its
stepped side "a" facing the engine.
• Place an aluminum plate "b" be-
tween the teeth of the balancer
shaft drive gear "6" and driven gear
"7".
5. Bend the lock washer tab.
Nut (balancer shaft driv-
en gear):
50 Nm (5.0 m•kg, 36
ft•lb)
Nut (primary drive gear):
75 Nm (7.5 m•kg, 54
ft•lb)

5-43
OIL PUMP
CHECKING THE OIL PUMP
1. Inspect:
• Oil pump drive gear "1"
• Oil pump drive shaft "2"
• Rotor housing "3"
• Oil pump cover "4"
Cracks/wear/damage→Replace.
2. Measure:
• Tip clearance "a"
(between the inner rotor "1" and
outer rotor "2")
• Side clearance "b"
(between the outer rotor "2" and
rotor housing "3")
• Housing and rotor clearance "c"
(between the rotor housing "3"
and rotors "1" "2")
Out of specification→Replace the
oil pump assembly.3. Check:
• Unsmooth→Repeat steps #1 and
#2 or replace the defective parts.
INSTALLING THE OIL PUMP
1. Install:
• Oil pump drive shaft "1"
• Washer "2"
• Dowel pin "3"
• Inner rotor 1 "4"
• Apply the engine oil on the oil pump
drive shaft and inner rotor 1.
• Fit the dowel pin into the groove in
the inner rotor 1.
2. Install:
• Outer rotor 1 "1"
Apply the engine oil on the outer rotor
1.
3. Install:
• Oil pump cover "1"
• Screw (oil pump cover) "2"
• Dowel pin "3"
• Inner rotor 2 "4"
• Circlip "5"
• Apply the engine oil on the inner ro-
tor 2.
• Fit the dowel pin into the groove in
the inner rotor 2.
4. Install:
• Outer rotor 2 "1"
• Dowel pin "2"
• Oil pump assembly "3"
• Bolt (oil pump assembly)
[L = 25 mm (0.94 in)] "4"
• Bolt (oil pump assembly)
[L = 30 mm (1.18 in)] "5"
Apply the engine oil on the outer rotor
2.
5. Install:
• Oil pump drive gear "1"
• Washer "2"
• Circlip "3"
Apply the engine oil on the oil pump
drive gear inner circumference.
Tip clearance "a":
0.12 mm or less (0.0047
in or less)
: 0.20 mm
(0.008 in)
Side clearance "b":
0.09–0.17 mm (0.0035–
0.0067 in)
: 0.24 mm
(0.009 in)
Housing and rotor clear-
ance "c":
0.03–0.10 mm (0.0012–
0.0039 in)
: 0.17 mm
(0.0067 in)
Screw (oil pump cover):
1.7 Nm (0.17 m•kg, 1.2
ft•lb)
Bolt (oil pump assem-
bly):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Bolt (oil pump assem-
bly):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)

5-61
CRANKCASE AND CRANKSHAFT
DISASSEMBLING THE
CRANKCASE
1. Separate:
• Right crankcase
• Left crankcase
Separation steps:
a. Remove the crankcase bolts "1",
hose guide "2" and clutch cable
holder "3".
Loosen each bolt 1/4 of a turn at a
time and after all the bolts are loos-
ened, remove them.
b. Remove the right crankcase "4".
• Place the crankcase with its left
side downward and split it by insert-
ing a screwdriver tip into the split-
ting slit "a" in the crankcase.
• Lift the right crankcase horizontally
while lightly patting the case split-
ting slit and engine mounting boss
using a soft hammer, and leave the
crankshaft and transmission with
the left crankcase.
Use soft hammer to tap on the
case half. Tap only on reinforced
portions of case. Do not tap on
gasket mating surface. Work slow-
ly and carefully. Make sure the
case halves separate evenly. If the
cases do not separate, check for a
remaining case bolt or fitting. Do
not force.
c. Remove the dowel pins and O-
ring.
REMOVING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Remove:
• Crankshaft "1"
Use the crankcase separating
tool "2".
Do not use a hammer to drive out
the crankshaft.
REMOVING THE CRANKCASE
BEARING
1. Remove:
•Bearing "1"
• Remove the bearing from the
crankcase by pressing its inner
race.
• Do not use the removed bearing.
CHECKING THE TIMING CHAIN
AND TIMING CHAIN GUIDE
1. Inspect:
• Timing chain
Cracks/stiff→Replace the timing
chain and camshaft sprocket as a
set.
2. Inspect:
• Timing chain guide
Wear/damage→Replace.CHECKING THE CRANKCASE
1. Inspect:
• Contacting surface "a"
Scratches→Replace.
• Engine mounting boss "b", crank-
case
Cracks/damage→Replace.
2. Inspect:
• Bearing
Rotate inner race with a finger.
Rough spot/seizure→Replace.
3. Inspect:
• Oil seal
Damage→Replace.
CHECKING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Measure:
• Runout limit "a"
• Small end free play limit "b"
• Connecting rod big end side
clearance "c"
• Crank width "d"
Out of specification→Replace.
Use the dial gauge and a thick-
ness gauge.
Crankcase separating
tool:
YU-1135-A/90890-
01135
Dial gauge and stand:
YU-3097/90890-01252
Standard
Run-
out
limit:0.03 mm (0.0012
in)0.05
mm
(0.002
in)
Small
end
free
play:0.4–1.0 mm
(0.016–0.039 in)2.0 mm
(0.08 in)
Side
clear-
ance:0.15–0.45 mm
(0.0059–0.0177
in)0.50
mm
(0.02 in)
Crack
width:55.95–56.00
mm (2.203–
2.205 in)—

5-62
CRANKCASE AND CRANKSHAFT
CHECKING THE OIL STRAINER
1. Inspect:
• Oil strainer
Damage→Replace.
CHECKING THE OIL DELIVERY
PIPE 2
1. Inspect:
• Oil delivery pipe 2 "1"
• O-ring "2"
Damage→Replace.
• Oil orifice "a"
Clogged→Blow.
INSTALLING THE CRANKCASE
BEARING
1. Install:
• Bearing
• Bearing stopper
• Bolt (bearing stopper)
• Screw (bearing stopper) • Screw [bearing stopper (crank-
shaft)] "1"
To left and right crankcase.
• Install the bearing by pressing its
outer race parallel.
• To prevent the screw [bearing stop-
per (crankshaft)] from becoming
loose, crush the screw head periph-
ery "a" into the concave "b" using a
punch etc. In so doing, take care
not to damage the screwdriver re-
ceiving hole in the screw head.
INSTALLING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Install:
• Crankshaft "1"
Use the crankshaft installing tool
"2", "3", "4" and "5".
• Hold the connecting rod at top dead
center with one hand while turning
the nut of the installing tool with the
other. Operate the installing tool un-
til the crankshaft bottoms against
the bearing.
• Before installing the crankshaft,
clean the contacting surface of
crankcase.
Do not use a hammer to drive in
the crankshaft.
A. For USA and CDN
B. Except for USA and CDN
2. Check:
• Shifter operation
• Transmission operation
Unsmooth operation→Repair.
3. Install:
• Oil strainer "1"
• Bolt (oil strainer) "2"
4. Apply:
• Sealant
On the right crankcase "1".
Clean the contacting surface of left
and right crankcase before applying
the sealant.
Bolt (bearing stopper):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Screw (bearing stopper):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Screw [bearing stopper
(crankshaft)]:
14 Nm (1.4 m•kg, 10
ft•lb)
Crankshaft installing pot
"2":
YU-90050/90890-01274
Crankshaft installing bolt
"3":
YU-90050/90890-01275
Adapter (M12) "4":
YU-90063/90890-01278
Spacer (crankshaft in-
staller) "5":
YU-91044/90890-04081
Bolt (oil strainer):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
YAMAHA Bond No. 1215
(ThreeBond
® No.1215):
90890-85505

5-65
TRANSMISSION, SHIFT CAM AND SHIFT FORK
REMOVING THE TRANSMISSION
1. Remove:
• Main axle "1"
• Drive axle "2"
• Shift cam
• Shift fork 3
• Shift fork 2
• Shift fork 1
• Remove assembly with the collar
"3" installed to the crankcase.
• Remove assembly carefully. Note
the position of each part. Pay partic-
ular attention to the location and di-
rection of shift forks.
• Remove the main axle, drive axle,
shift cam and shift fork all together
by tapping lightly on the transmis-
sion drive axle with a soft hammer.
CHECKING THE GEARS
1. Inspect:
• Matching dog "a"
• Gear teeth "b"
• Shift fork groove "c"
Wear/damage→Replace.
2. Inspect:
• O-ring "1"
Damage→Replace.
3. Check:
• Gears movement
Unsmooth movement→Repair or
replace.CHECKING THE BEARING
1. Inspect:
•Bearing "1"
Rotate inner race with a finger.
Rough spot/seizure→Replace.
CHECKING THE SHIFT FORK,
SHIFT CAM AND SEGMENT
1. Inspect:
• Shift fork "1"
Wear/damage/scratches→Re-
place.
2. Inspect:
• Shift cam "1"
• Segment "2"
Wear/damage→Replace.
3. Check:
• Shift fork movement
Unsmooth operation→Replace
shift fork.
For a malfunctioning shift fork, re-
place not only the shift fork itself but
the two gears each adjacent to the
shift fork.
INSTALLING THE TRANSMISSION
1. Install:
• 5th pinion gear (19T) "1"
• 3rd pinion gear (17T) "2"
•Collar "3"
• 4th pinion gear (21T) "4"
• 2nd pinion gear (16T) "5"
To main axle "6".
Apply the molybdenum disulfide oil
on the inner and end surface of the
idler gear and on the inner surface of
the sliding gear, then install.
2. Install:
• 2nd wheel gear (28T) "1"
• 4th wheel gear (23T) "2"
• 3rd wheel gear (23T) "3"
• 5th wheel gear (17T) "4"
• 1st wheel gear (31T) "5"
• O-ring "6"
To drive axle "7".
• Apply the molybdenum disulfide oil
on the inner and end surface of the
idler gear and on the inner surface
of the sliding gear, then install.
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the O-ring.

6-3
FRONT WHEEL AND REAR WHEEL
HANDLING NOTE
Support the machine securely so
there is no danger of it falling over.
REMOVING THE REAR WHEEL
1. Remove:
• Wheel "1"
Push the wheel forward and remove
the drive chain "2".
REMOVING THE WHEEL BEARING
1. Remove:
• Bearing "1"
Remove the bearing using a general
bearing puller "2".
CHECKING THE WHEEL
1. Measure:
• Wheel runout
Out of limit → Repair/replace.
2. Inspect:
• Bearing
Rotate inner race with a finger.
Rough spot/seizure → Replace.
Replace the bearings, oil seal and
wheel collar as a set.
CHECKING THE WHEEL AXLE
1. Measure:
• Wheel axle bends
Out of specification → Replace.
Use the dial gauge "1".
The bending value is shown by one
half of the dial gauge reading.
Do not attempt to straighten a bent
axle.
CHECKING THE BRAKE DISC
1. Measure:
• Brake disc deflection (only rear
brake disc)
Use the dial gauge "1".
Out of specification → Inspect
wheel runout.
If wheel runout is in good condi-
tion, replace the brake disc.
2. Measure:
• Brake disc thickness "a"
Out of limit → Replace.INSTALLING THE FRONT WHEEL
1. Install:
• Bearing (left) "1"
• Spacer "2"
• Bearing (right) "3"
• Oil seal "4"
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the bearing and oil seal lip when
installing.
• Use a socket that matches the out-
side diameter of the race of the
bearing.
• Left side of bearing shall be in-
stalled first.
• Install the oil seal with its manufac-
ture's marks or numbers facing out-
ward.
Do not strike the inner race of the
bearing. Contact should be made
only with the outer race.
Wheel runout limit:
Radial "1": 2.0 mm
(0.08 in)
Lateral "2": 2.0 mm
(0.08 in)
Wheel axle bending limit:
0.5 mm (0.020 in)
Brake disc deflection lim-
it:
Rear:
: 0.15 mm
(0.006 in)
Brake disc thickness:
Front:
3.0 mm (0.12 in)
: 2.5 mm (0.10
in)
Rear:
4.0 mm (0.16 in)
: 3.5 mm (0.14
in)

6-15
FRONT BRAKE AND REAR BRAKE
FILLING THE BRAKE FLUID
1. Fill:
• Brake fluid
Until the fluid level reaches
"LOWER" level line "a".
• Use only the designated quality
brake fluid:
otherwise, the rubber seals may
deteriorate, causing leakage and
poor brake performance.
• Refill with the same type of brake
fluid;
mixing fluids may result in a
harmful chemical reaction and
lead to poor performance.
• Be careful that water does not
enter the master cylinder when
refilling. Water will significantly
lower the boiling point of the flu-
id and may result in vapor lock.
Brake fluid may erode painted sur-
faces or plastic parts. Always
clean up spilled fluid immediately.
A. Front
B. Rear
2. Air bleed:
• Brake system
Refer to "BLEEDING THE HY-
DRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM" sec-
tion in the CHAPTER 3.
3. Inspect:
• Brake fluid level
Fluid at lower level→Fill up.
Refer to "CHECKING THE
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL" section in
the CHAPTER 3.4. Install:
• Reservoir float (front brake)
• Diaphragm
• Brake master cylinder cap "1"
• Screw (bolt) {brake master cylin-
der cap} "2"
After installation, while pulling the
brake lever in or pushing down on
the brake pedal, check whether
there is any brake fluid leaking
where the union bolts are installed
respectively at the brake master
cylinder and brake caliper.
A. Front
B. Rear
5. Install: (rear brake only)
• Protector "1"
• Bolt (protector) "2" Recommended brake flu-
id:
DOT #4
Screw (bolt) {brake mas-
ter cylinder cap}:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Bolt (protector):
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1
ft•lb)

6-18
FRONT FORK
HANDLING NOTE
Support the machine securely so
there is no danger of it falling over.
The front fork requires careful atten-
tion. So it is recommended that the
front fork be maintained at the deal-
ers.
To prevent an accidental explosion
of air, the following instructions
should be observed:
• The front fork with a built-in pis-
ton rod has a very sophisticated
internal construction and is par-
ticularly sensitive to foreign ma-
terial. Use enough care not to
allow any foreign material to
come in when the oil is replaced
or when the front fork is disas-
sembled and reassembled.
• Before removing the cap bolts or
front forks, be sure to extract the
air from the air chamber com-
pletely.
REMOVING THE FRONT FORK
CAP BOLT
1. Remove:
• Front fork cap bolt "1"
From the outer tube.
Before removing the front fork from
the machine, loosen the front fork cap
bolt.
2. Remove:
• Front fork cap bolt "1"
Hold the locknut "2" and remove the
front fork cap bolt.
REMOVING THE INNER TUBE
1. Remove:
• Dust seal "1"
• Stopper ring "2"
Using slotted-head screwdriver.
Take care not to scratch the inner
tube.
2. Remove:
• Inner tube "1"
Oil seal removal steps:
a. Push in slowly "a" the inner tube
just before it bottoms out and then
pull it back quickly "b".
b. Repeat this step until the inner
tube can be pulled out from the
outer tube.
REMOVING THE DAMPER ROD
1. Remove:
• Base valve "1"
• Damper rod "2"
Use a damper rod holder "3" to lock
the damper rod.
CHECKING THE DAMPER ROD
1. Inspect:
• Damper rod "1"
Bend/damage→Replace damper
rod.
The front fork with a built-in piston
rod has a very sophisticated inter-
nal construction and is particularly
sensitive to foreign material.
Use enough care not to allow any
foreign material to come in when
the oil is replaced or when the
front fork is disassembled and re-
assembled.
CHECKING THE BASE VALVE
1. Inspect:
• Valve assembly "1"
Wear/damage →Replace.
• O-ring "2"
Damage→ Replace.
CHECKING THE FORK SPRING
1. Measure:
• Fork spring free length "a"
Out of specification→Replace.
Damper rod holder:
YM-01494/90890-01494
Fork spring free length:
460 mm (18.1 in)
: 455 mm (17.9
in)