Cooling System:
•Inspect the fan for blade damage. If damage is found, replace with
the recommended parts. Inspect for fan-to-shroud interference and
any damage to shroud, such as cracks and holes.
•Do not change fan ratio or alter fan spacer dimensions and positions.
•Inspect fan clutch for proper operation. Make sure the fan is
disengaged when cooling of the engine is not required.
•Inspect radiator shutters (if equipped) for proper operation. The
shutters should be open during normal operating temperatures.
Engine:Valve covers and block covers are made to damp-out engine
mechanical noise and, if needed, should be replaced with recommended
parts. Check for mechanical isolations.
Transmission Enclosure:Inspect for cracks, holes and tears. Clean any
deposits, such as oil, dirt and stones.
Exhaust System:
•Inspect for leaks at various joint connections and loose clamps.
•Perform a visual inspection for cracks or holes in the muffler and tail
pipe.
•Always use the recommended parts when items need to be replaced.
•Do not change the tail pipe elbow or offset tail pipe orientation from
the standard position as originally received.
•To avoid abnormal changes in vehicle sound levels, it is necessary for
the owner to perform inspections and necessary maintenance at the
intervals shown in theScheduled Maintenancechapter.
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Parking
WARNING:When parking your vehicle, do not leave the
transmission in gear; if the key is in the on position and the
vehicle rolls, the engine could start. Failure to follow these instructions
could result in an unattended vehicle moving, possibly causing personal
injury or property damage.
Always use the parking brake. When parking on a grade, block the
wheels and turn the front wheels to one side so that if the vehicle rolls,
the front tires act against the curb to stop the vehicle. The front wheels
are more effective at stopping a rolling vehicle than the rear wheels.
Cold Weather
Note:Idling in cold weather does not heat the engine to its normal
operating temperature. Long periods of idling in cold weather can cause
a build-up of heavy deposits of carbon and rust on valve stems causing
them to stick which, in turn, can cause valvetrain damage.
Note:The use of winter fronts, or other air-restrictive devices mounted
in front of the radiator on vehicles with chassis-mounted charge air
coolers, are not recommended unless extremely cold weather conditions
exist. Airflow restriction can cause high exhaust temperatures, power
loss, excessive fan usage and a reduction in fuel economy. If you must
use a winter front, the device should have a permanent opening of at
least 120 square inches (774 square centimeters) directly in line with the
fan hub.
For best engine operation in temperatures of 32°F (0°C) or lower:
•Make sure the batteries are the correct type and are fully charged.
Check other electrical components to make sure they are in optimum
condition.
•Use a permanent-type engine coolant to protect the engine against
damage from freezing.
•If your vehicle is equipped with a water-fuel separator, drain it daily.
Fill the fuel tank at the end of daily operation to prevent
condensation in the fuel system.
•Use the proper engine oil and maintain it at its proper level.
•At temperatures of –4°F (–20°C) or below, it is recommended that
you use a crankcase-mounted coolant heater to improve cold engine
starting.
•If operating in arctic temperatures of –20°F (–29°C) or lower, consult
your truck dealer for information about special cold weather
equipment and precautions.
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Removing Axle Shafts before Towing
1. Shift the main differential to the unlocked (disengaged) position; the
differential lock light turns off.
2. Remove the capscrews and washers or stud nuts and washers from
flanges of both axle shafts.
3. Loosen the tapered dowels in the flanges of both axle shafts by
holding a 1
1 2inch diameter brass drift or hammer against the axle
shaft center and hitting it with a five or six pound hammer.Note:Do
not use a chisel or wedge to loosen the axle shafts and dowels. Use
of a chisel or wedge can damage the hub, axle shafts and oil seals.
4. Remove the tapered dowels and both axle shafts from the axle
assembly.
5. Assemble a cover over openings of both wheel ends to prevent loss of
lubricant and keep dirt away from the wheel bearing cavities.
Note:One of the axle shafts has two sets of splines. One set to engage
with the differential side gear and one set to engage with the shift collar
for the differential lock. It may be necessary to rotate the shaft slightly
to align the gear spline teeth with the shift collar teeth in order to
remove the axle shaft.
Installing the Axle Shafts
1. Remove the covers from the wheel ends.
2. Shift the differential lock to the unlocked (disengaged) position.
3. Install the axle shafts.
•Place the gaskets on the wheel hub studs.
•Push the right-hand axle shaft and gasket into the wheel end and
housing until the shaft stops against the differential shift collar.
•Push down and in on the axle shaft flange and rotate the shaft
until the splines of the shaft and shift collar are engaged.
•Push the axle shaft further into the housing until the shaft stops
against the differential side gear.
•Push down on the axle shaft flange and rotate the shaft until the
splines of the shaft and side gear are engaged.
•Push the axle shaft completely into the housing until the axle
shaft flange and the gasket are flush against the wheel hub.
•Install the left-hand axle shaft and gasket into the wheel end.
4. If tapered dowels are required, install them at each stud and into the
flange of the axle shaft. Use a punch or drift and hammer, if needed.
5. Install the fasteners and tighten to correct torque value. See the
Workshop Manual.
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BREAKING-IN
You need to break in new tires for approximately 300 miles
(480 kilometers). During this time, your vehicle may exhibit some unique
driving characteristics. Avoid driving too fast during the first 1000 miles
(1600 kilometers). Vary your speed frequently and change up through
the gears early. Do not labor the engine.
ECONOMICAL DRIVING
Fuel economy is affected by several things such as how you drive, the
conditions you drive under and how you maintain your vehicle.
There are some things to keep in mind that may improve your fuel
economy:
•Accelerate and slow down in a smooth, moderate fashion.
•Drive at steady speeds without stopping.
•Anticipate stops; slowing down may eliminate the need to stop.
•Close the windows for high-speed driving.
•Drive at reasonable speeds (traveling at 55 mph [88 km/h] uses 15%
less fuel than traveling at 65 mph [105 km/h]).
•Keep the tires properly inflated and use only the recommended size.
•Use the recommended engine oil.
•Perform all regularly scheduled maintenance.
There are also some things you may not want to do because they may
reduce your fuel economy:
•Sudden or hard accelerations.
•Warm up your vehicle on cold mornings.
•Use the air conditioner or front defroster.
•Use the speed control in hilly terrain.
•Rest your foot on the brake pedal while driving.
•Carry unnecessary weight (approximately 1 mpg [0.4 km/L] is lost for
every 400 pounds [180 kilograms] of weight carried).
•Add particular accessories to your vehicle (e.g., bug deflectors,
rollbars and light bars, running boards, ski racks).
•Drive with the wheels out of alignment.
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Fuse/Relay
LocationFuse Amp
RatingProtected Circuits
16 15A High beams, Indicator
17 — Not used
18 5A Dimmer switch, Interior lighting
19 15A Engine control (diesel engine only)
20 5A Starting system
21 10A DRL resistor
22 15A Air horn, Air suspension dump, Two-speed
axle, Driver-controlled locking differential
23 10A Flasher relay
24 15A Hydraulic brakes relay, Fuel heater relay
(diesel engine only), Air dryer
25 10A Blower motor relay coil
26 10A Right-hand low beam headlight
27 — Not used
28 10A Left-hand low beam headlight
29 10A Cluster, GEM
30 15A Allison electronic transmission
31 15A Mirror fold relay
Relay 1 — Interior lamps
Relay 2 — Not used
Relay 3 — Horn
Relay 4 — Not used
Relay 5 — Not used
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Catalytic Converter (Diesel Engine)
Note:If your vehicle is equipped with a catalytic converter/muffler,do
notblend waste oil with diesel fuel. Operate only on ultra low sulfur
(less than 15 parts per million sulfur) diesel fuel with a cetane value of
45 or higher.
If your diesel engine is equipped with a catalytic converter, it is
important to review the maintenance schedule to make sure proper
functioning of the catalytic converter. Also, take precautions not to
damage the catalytic converter when servicing your engine or storing
your vehicle.
Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF), Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) and
Select Catalyst Reduction (SCR) System
See your engine operator’s manual for information regarding DEF, DPF
and SCR system service.
Air Induction System
WARNING:When performing maintenance to any turbocharged
engine with engine air inlet piping disconnected, keep loose
clothing, jewelry and long hair away from the engine air inlet piping.
A turbocharger compressor air inlet protective shield should be
installed over the turbocharger air inlet to reduce the risk of personal
injury or death.
Perform a complete inspection of the air induction system annually.
In areas where road salt is used, disassemble the joints of each aluminum
component and inspect for salt build-up and presence of chlorine that
can cause aluminum particles to flake off and enter the engine
combustion chambers. If evidence of corrosion is found (usually at the
pipe connections), use a wire brush to clean the inside of the pipes and
inside the rubber hoses.
If the intake pipes are pitted at the joint ends, use Motorcraft® Silicone
Gasket and Sealant TA-30 to seal the joints. Make sure no excess
material is on the inside of the pipes that can be pulled into the engine.
If the service condition of the pipes, hoses or clamps is questionable,
replace the defective part(s).
Make sure all dust and debris has been cleaned out of the pipes and
couplings with a clean, damp rag prior to reassembly.
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Chassis-mounted Charge Air Cooler
Visually inspect the core assembly for debris and clogging of external fins
with the engine off. Prior to engine operation, remove any debris
blocking the core.
•Turbocharger-to-charge air cooler
•Charge air cooler-to-intake manifold pipe
•Mounting bracket
•Chassis-mounted charge air cooler core
Inspect air intake piping:
•Check for accumulation of salt deposits (where applicable).
If present, disassemble and clean the complete air intake piping
system. If the intake piping is pitted, use Motorcraft® Silicone Gasket
and Sealant TA-30 to seal joints against leakage.
•Check for loose hoses and clamps.
•Check for ruptured or collapsed hoses.
•Check air cleaner housing for cracks.
Suspension Inspection
Note:Do not adjust air suspension height to any setting other than the
specified setting. Altering the height setting changes the driveline angle
and may result in unwarrantable component damage, such as
transmission component damage.
Verify drive axle air suspension height and height control valve
performance at engine oil change intervals.
Periodically check:
•Condition of spring leaves for evidence of fatigue, bending or
breakage.
•Condition of suspension mounting brackets and bushings.
•Torque rod mounting fasteners for tightness.
•For proper suspension alignment. This must be maintained at all
times.
•U-bolts. After the chassis has been operating under load for
1000 miles (1600 kilometers) or six months (whichever comes first),
the U-bolt nuts must be re-torqued. The U-bolt nuts must be
re-torqued every 36000 miles (60000 kilometers) thereafter. The
U-bolt and nut threads and seats should be cleaned and lubricated to
make sure a like new condition when re-torquing.
Note:SeeSpring U-bolt checklater in this chapter.
214Maintenance
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3. Tilt the hood forward until stopped by the retaining cables.
To lower the hood:
1. Push the hood rearward at the top center of the hood above the
grille until closed.
2. Engage the latch on each fender.
3. Push down on the bottom of each latch until locked.
ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK
Diesel Engine
See your engine operator’s manual for information on the engine oil
dipstick.
Gasoline Engine
A. MIN
B. MAX
AB
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