2012 YAMAHA YZ250F width

4-25
VALVES AND VALVE SPRINGS
3. Inspect:
• Valve face
Pitting/wear→Grind the face.
• Valve stem end
Mushroom shape or diameter
larger than the body of the stem→
Replace.
4. Measure:
• Margin thickness "a"
Out of specification→Replace.
5. Measure:
• Runout (valve stem)
Out of specification→Replace.
• When installing a new valve always
replace the guide.
• If the valve is removed or replaced
always replace the oil seal.
6. Eliminate:
• Carbon deposits
(from the valve face and valve
seat)
7. Inspect:
• Valve seat
Pitting/wear→Reface the valve
seat.
8. Measure:
• Valve seat width "a"
Out of specification→Reface the
valve seat.
Measurement steps:
a. Apply Mechanic's blueing dye
(Dykem) "b" to the valve face.
b. Install the valve into the cylinder
head.
c. Press the valve through the valve
guide and onto the valve seat to
make a clear pattern.
d. Measure the valve seat width.
Where the valve seat and valve
face made contact, blueing will
have been removed.
e. If the valve seat is too wide, too
narrow, or the seat is not cen-
tered, the valve seat must be
refaced.
9. Lap:
• Valve face
• Valve seat
This model uses titanium intake
and exhaust valves. Titanium
valves that have been used to lap
the valve seats must not be used.
Always replace lapped valves with
new valves.
• When replacing the cylinder head,
replace the valves without lapping
the valve seats and valve faces.• When replacing the valves or valve
guides, use new valves to lap the
valve seats, and then replace them
with new valves.
Lapping steps:
a. Apply a coarse lapping compound
to the valve face.
Do not let the compound enter the
gap between the valve stem and
the guide.
b. Apply molybdenum disulfide oil to
the valve stem.
c. Install the valve into the cylinder
head.
d. Turn the valve until the valve face
and valve seat are evenly pol-
ished, then clean off all of the
compound.
For best lapping results, lightly tap
the valve seat while rotating the valve
back and forth between your hands.
e. Apply a fine lapping compound to
the valve face and repeat the
above steps.
After every lapping operation be sure
to clean off all of the compound from
the valve face and valve seat.
f. Apply Mechanic's blueing dye
(Dykem) to the valve face.
g. Install the valve into the cylinder
head. Margin thickness:
Intake:
0.8 mm (0.0315 in)
Exhaust:
0.7 mm (0.0276 in)
Runout limit:
0.01 mm (0.0004 in)
Valve seat width:
Intake:
0.9–1.1 mm
(0.0354–0.0433 in)
:1.6 mm
(0.0630 in)
Exhaust:
0.9–1.1 mm
(0.0354–0.0433 in)
:1.6 mm
(0.0630 in)

4-26
VALVES AND VALVE SPRINGS
h. Press the valve through the valve
guide and onto the valve seat to
make a clear pattern.
i. Measure the valve seat width
again. If the valve seat width is out
of specification, reface and relap
the valve seat.
CHECKING THE VALVE SPRINGS
1. Measure:
• Valve spring free length "a"
Out of specification→Replace.
2. Measure:
• Compressed spring force "a"
Out of specification→Replace.
b. Installed length
3. Measure:
• Spring tilt "a"
Out of specification→Replace.CHECKING THE VALVE LIFTERS
1. Inspect:
• Valve lifter
Scratches/damage→Replace
both lifters and cylinder head.
INSTALLING THE VALVES
1. Apply:
• Molybdenum disulfide oil
Onto the valve stem and valve
stem seal.
2. Install:
• Valve "1"
• Valve spring seat "2"
• Valve stem seal "3"
• Valve spring "4"
• Valve spring retainer "5"
To cylinder head.
• Make sure that each valve is in-
stalled in its original place, also re-
ferring to the painted color as
follows.
Intake (middle) "a": Sky blue
Intake (right/left) "b": not paint
Exhaust "c": Purple
• Install the valve springs with the
larger pitch "d" facing upward.
e. Smaller pitch
3. Install:
• Valve cotter
While compressing the valve spring
with a valve spring compressor "1" in-
stall the valve cotters.
4. To secure the valve cotters onto
the valve stem, lightly tap the
valve tip with a piece of wood.
Hitting the valve tip with excessive
force could damage the valve.
5. Install:
• Adjusting pad "1"
• Valve lifter "2"
• Apply the molybdenum disulfide oil
on the valve stem end.
• Apply the engine oil on the valve lift-
ers.
• Valve lifter must turn smoothly
when rotated with a finger.
• Be careful to reinstall valve lifters
and pads in their original place.
Free length (valve
spring):
Intake:
39.76 mm (1.57 in)
: 38.76 mm
(1.53 in)
Exhaust:
37.78 mm (1.49 in)
: 36.78 mm
(1.45 in)
Compressed spring
force:
Intake:
99–114 N at 28.98 mm
(9.9–11.4 kg at 28.98
mm, 22.27–25.57 lb at
1.14 in)
Exhaust:
126–145 N at 28.30
mm (12.6–14.5 kg at
28.30 mm,
28.44–31.97 lb at 1.11
in)
Spring tilt limit:
Intake:
2.5°/1.7 mm (0.067 in)
Exhaust:
2.5°/1.6 mm (0.063 in)
Valve spring compres-
sor:
YM-4019/90890-04019

4-37
OIL FILTER ELEMENT AND WATER PUMP
REMOVING THE IMPELLER
SHAFT
1. Remove:
• Impeller "1"
• Washer "2"
• Impeller shaft "3"
Hold the impeller shaft on its width
across the flats "a" with spanners,
etc. and remove the impeller.
REMOVING THE OIL SEAL
It is not necessary to disassemble the
water pump, unless there is an abnor-
mality such as excessive change in
coolant level, discoloration of coolant,
or milky transmission oil.
1. Remove:
• Bearing "1"
2. Remove:
• Oil seal "1"CHECKING THE OIL DELIVERY
PIPE
1. Inspect:
• Oil delivery pipe "1"
Bend/damage→Replace.
Clogged→Blow.
CHECKING THE IMPELLER SHAFT
1. Inspect:
• Impeller shaft "1"
Bend/wear/damage→Replace.
Fur deposits→Clean.
CHECKING THE IMPELLER SHAFT
GEAR
1. Inspect:
• Gear teeth "a"
Wear/damage→Replace.
CHECKING THE BEARING
1. Inspect:
•Bearing
Rotate inner race with a finger.
Rough spot/seizure→Replace.CHECKING THE OIL SEAL
1. Inspect:
• Oil seal "1"
Wear/damage→Replace.
INSTALLING THE OIL SEAL
1. Install:
• Oil seal "1"
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the oil seal lip.
• Install the oil seal with its manufac-
ture's marks or numbers facing the
right crankcase cover "2".
2. Install:
• Bearing "1"
Install the bearing by pressing its out-
er race parallel.

4-38
OIL FILTER ELEMENT AND WATER PUMP
INSTALLING THE IMPELLER
SHAFT
1. Install:
• Impeller shaft "1"
• Washer "2"
• Impeller "3"
• Take care so that the oil seal lip is
not damaged or the spring does not
slip off its position.
• When installing the impeller shaft,
apply the lithium soap base grease
on the oil seal lip and impeller shaft.
And install the shaft while turning it.
• Hold the impeller shaft on its width
across the flats "a" with spanners,
etc. and install the impeller.
INSTALLING THE RIGHT
CRANKCASE COVER
1. Install:
• Dowel pin "1"
• O-ring "2"
•Collar "3"
• Gasket "4"
Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the O-ring.
2. Install:
• Right crankcase cover "1"
• Bolt (right crankcase cover) "2"
• Apply the engine oil on the impeller
shaft end.
• Mesh the impeller shaft gear "3"
with primary drive gear "4".
• Tighten the bolts in stage, using a
crisscross pattern.
INSTALLING THE KICKSTARTER
CRANK
1. Install:
• Kickstarter crank "1"
• Washer
• Bolt (kickstarter crank)
Install so that the clearance "a" be-
tween the kickstarter crank and en-
gine bracket mounting bolt is 8 mm
(0.31 in) or more and that the kick-
starter crank does not contact the
right crankcase cover when it is
pulled out.
2. Install:
• Oil hose "1"
• Bolt (oil hose) "2"
3. Install:
• Copper washer "1"
• Oil delivery pipe "2"
• Union bolt (M8) "3"
• Union bolt (M10) "4"
First tighten the union bolts temporar-
ily. Then retighten them with the width
"a" across flats of the oil delivery pipe
held tight with a spanner.
Impeller:
14 Nm (1.4 m•kg, 10
ft•lb)
Bolt (right crankcase
cover):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Bolt (kickstarter crank):
33 Nm (3.3 m•kg, 24
ft•lb)Bolt (oil hose):
8 Nm (0.8 m•kg, 5.8
ft•lb)
Union bolt (M8):
18 Nm (1.8 m•kg, 13
ft•lb)
Union bolt (M10):
20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14
ft•lb)

4-60
CRANKCASE AND CRANKSHAFT
DISASSEMBLING THE
CRANKCASE
1. Separate:
• Right crankcase
• Left crankcase
Separation steps:
a. Remove the crankcase bolts "1",
hose guide "2" and clutch cable
holder "3".
Loosen each bolt 1/4 of a turn at a
time and after all the bolts are loos-
ened, remove them.
b. Remove the right crankcase "4".
• Place the crankcase with its left half
downward and split the right half
apart while lifting it horizontally by
lightly tapping the projection "a" on
it using a soft hammer.
• When splitting it, leave the crank-
shaft and transmission with the left
half.
Use soft hammer to tap on the
case half. Tap only on reinforced
portions of case. Do not tap on
gasket mating surface. Work slow-
ly and carefully. Make sure the
case halves separate evenly. If the
cases do not separate, check for a
remaining case bolt or fitting. Do
not force.
c. Remove the dowel pins and O-
ring.
REMOVING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Remove:
• Crankshaft "1"
Use the crankcase separating
tool "2".
Do not use a hammer to drive out
the crankshaft.
REMOVING THE CRANKCASE
BEARING
1. Remove:
•Bearing "1"
• Remove the bearing from the
crankcase by pressing its inner
race.
• Do not use the removed bearing.
CHECKING THE TIMING CHAIN
AND TIMING CHAIN GUIDE
1. Inspect:
• Timing chain
Cracks/stiff→Replace the timing
chain and camshaft sprocket as a
set.
2. Inspect:
• Timing chain guide
Wear/damage→Replace.CHECKING THE CRANKCASE
1. Inspect:
• Contacting surface "a"
Scratches→Replace.
• Engine mounting boss "b", crank-
case
Cracks/damage→Replace.
2. Inspect:
• Bearing
Rotate inner race with a finger.
Rough spot/seizure→Replace.
3. Inspect:
• Oil seal
Damage→Replace.
CHECKING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Measure:
• Runout limit "a"
• Small end free play limit "b"
• Connecting rod big end side
clearance "c"
• Crank width "d"
Out of specification→Replace.
Use the dial gauge and a thick-
ness gauge.
Crankcase separating
tool:
YU-1135-A/90890-
01135
Dial gauge and stand:
YU-3097/90890-01252
Standard
Runo
ut lim-
it:0.03 mm (0.0012
in)0.05
mm
(0.002
in)
Small
end
free
play:0.4–1.0 mm
(0.016–0.039 in)2.0 mm
(0.08 in)
Side
clear-
ance:0.15–0.45 mm
(0.0059–0.0177
in)0.50
mm
(0.02 in)
Crack
width:55.95–56.00
mm
(2.203–2.205 in)—