2012 YAMAHA YZ125LC recommended oil

1-12
STARTING AND BREAK-IN
STARTING AND BREAK-IN
FUEL
Mix oil with the gas at the ratio speci-
fied below. Always use fresh, name-
brand gasoline, and mix the oil and gas
the day of the race. Do not use premix
that is more than a few hours old.
If knocking or pinging occurs, use a
different brand of gasoline or higher
octane grade.
Never mix two types of oil in the
same batch; clotting of the oil
could result. If you wish to change
oil types, be sure to drain the fuel
tank and the carburetor float bowl
of old premix prior to filling with
the new type.
HANDLING NOTE
Before starting the machine, per-
form the checks in the pre-opera-
tion check list.
Never start or run the engine in a
closed area. The exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they can cause loss of
consciousness and death in a very
short time. Always operate the ma-
chine in a well-ventilated area.
AIR FILTER MAINTENANCE
According to "CLEANING THE AIR
FILTER ELEMENT" section in the
CHAPTER 3, apply the foam-air-filter
oil or its equivalent to the element.
(Excess oil in the element may ad-
versely affect engine starting.)
STARTING A COLD ENGINE
1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. Turn the fuel cock to "ON" and full
open the starter knob (CHOKE).
3. With the throttle completely
closed start the engine by kicking
the kick starter forcefully with firm
stroke.
4. Run the engine at idle or slightly
higher until it warms up: this usu-
ally takes about one or two min-
utes.
5. The engine is warmed up when it
responds normally to the throttle
with the starter knob (CHOKE)
turned off.
Do not warm up the engine for ex-
tended periods of time.
STARTING A WARM ENGINE
Do not operate the starter knob
(CHOKE). Open the throttle slightly
and start the engine by kicking the
kick starter forcefully with firm stroke.
Observe the following break-in
procedures during initial operation
to ensure optimum performance
and avoid engine damage.
BREAK-IN PROCEDURES
1. Before starting the engine, fill the
fuel tank with a break-in oil-fuel
mixture as follows.
2. Perform the pre-operation checks
on the machine.
3. Start and warm up the engine.
Check the idle speed, and check
the operation of the controls and
the "ENGINE STOP" button.
4. Operate the machine in the lower
gears at moderate throttle open-
ings for five to eight minutes. Stop
and check the spark plug condi-
tion; it will show a rich condition
during break-in.5. Allow the engine to cool. Restart
the engine and operate the ma-
chine as in the step above for five
minutes. Then, very briefly shift to
the higher gears and check full-
throttle response. Stop and check
the spark plug.
6. After again allowing the engine to
cool, restart and run the machine
for five more minutes. Full throttle
and the higher gears may be
used, but sustained full-throttle
operation should be avoided.
Check the spark plug condition.
7. Allow the engine to cool, remove
the top end, and inspect the pis-
ton and cylinder. Remove any
high spots on the piston with #600
grit wet sandpaper. Clean all
components and carefully reas-
semble the top end.
8. Drain the break-in oil-fuel mixture
from the fuel tank and refill with
the specified mix.
9. Restart the engine and check the
operation of the machine through-
out its entire operating range.
Stop and check the spark plug
condition. Restart the machine
and operate it for about 10 to 15
more minutes. The machine will
now be ready to race.
• After the break-in or before each
race, you must check the entire
machine for loose fittings and
fasteners as per "TORQUE-
CHECK POINTS". Tighten all
such fasteners as required.
• When any of the following parts
have been replaced, they must
be broken in.
CYLINDER AND CRANKSHAFT:
About one hour of break-in oper-
ation is necessary.
PISTON, RING AND GEARS:
These parts require about 30
minutes of break-in operation at
half-throttle or less. Observe the
condition of the engine carefully
during operation.
Recommended fuel:
Premium unleaded
gasoline only with a re-
search octane number
of 95 or higher.
Fuel tank capacity:
8.0 L (1.76 Imp gal, 2.11
US gal)
Mixing oil:
Recommended oil:
Yamalube "2-R"
(Yamalube racing 2-
cycle oil)
Mixing ratio: 30:1
If unavailable, use an
equivalent type of oil.
Mixing oil:
Yamalube "2-R"
Mixing ratio:
15:1

2-1
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
Model name: YZ125B (USA, CDN, AUS, NZ)
YZ125 (EUROPE, ZA)
Model code number: 1SR1 (USA, CDN)
1SR2 (EUROPE)
1SR4 (AUS, NZ, ZA)
Dimensions: USA, AUS, NZ, ZA EUROPE, CDN
Overall length 2,135 mm (84.1 in) 2,139 mm (84.2 in)
Overall width 827 mm (32.6 in)←
Overall height 1,315 mm (51.8 in) 1,318 mm (51.9 in)
Seat height 997 mm (39.3in) 998 mm (39.3 in)
Wheelbase 1,443 mm (56.8 in)←
Minimum ground clearance 386 mm (15.2 in) 388 mm (15.3 in)
Weight:
Curb weight 94 kg (207 lb)
Engine:
Engine type Liquid cooled 2-stroke, gasoline
Cylinder arrangement Single cylinder
Displacement 124 cm
3 (4.36 Imp oz, 4.19 US oz)
Bore × stroke 54 × 54.5 mm (2.126 × 2.146 in)
Compression ratio 8.6–10.7 : 1
Starting system Kick starter
Lubrication system: Premix (30 : 1)(Yamalube 2-R)
Oil type or grade (2-stroke):
Transmission oil Recommended brand: YAMALUBE
SAE10W-40
API service SG type or higher
JASO standard MA
Periodic oil change 0.66 L (0.58 Imp qt, 0.69 US qt)
Total amount 0.70 L (0.62 Imp qt, 0.74 US qt)
Coolant capacity (including all routes): 0.9 L (0.79 Imp qt, 0.95 US qt)
Air filter: Wet type element
Fuel:
Type Premium unleaded gasoline only with a research octane
number of 95 or higher.
Tank capacity 8.0 L (1.76 Imp gal, 2.11 US gal)
Carburetor:
Type/Manufacturer TMXχ38SS/MIKUNI
Spark plug:
Type/Manufacturer BR9EVX/NGK (resistance type)
Gap 0.6–0.7 mm (0.024–0.028 in)
Clutch type: Wet, multiple-disc
2

3-1
MAINTENANCE INTERVALS
REGULAR INSPECTION AND ADJUSTMENTS
MAINTENANCE INTERVALS
• The following schedule is intended as a general guide to maintenance and lubrication. Bear in mind that such factors as
weather, terrain, geographical location, and individual usage will alter the required maintenance and lubrication intervals.
If you are a doubt as to what intervals to follow in maintaining and lubricating your machine, consult your Yamaha dealer.
• Periodic inspection is essential in making full use of the machine performance. The service life of the parts varies sub-
stantially according to the environment in which the machine runs (e.g., rain, dirt, etc.). Therefore, earlier inspection is
required by reference to the list below.
ItemAfter
break-in
Every
race
(about
2.5
hours)Every
third
(about
7.5
hours)Every
fifth
(about
12.5
hours)
As re-
quiredRemarks
PISTON
Inspect and clean●●Inspect crack.
Replace●●Inspect carbon deposits and
eliminate them.
PISTON RING
Inspect●●Check ring end gap.
Replace●●
PISTON PIN, SMALL END
BEARING
Inspect●
Replace●
CYLINDER HEAD Inspect carbon deposits and
eliminate them.
Inspect and clean●●Check gasket.
Retighten●●
CYLINDER
Inspect and clean●●Inspect score marks.
Replace●Inspect wear.
YPVS
Inspect and clean●●Inspect carbon deposits and
eliminate them.
CLUTCH
Inspect and adjust●●Inspect housing, friction plate,
clutch plate and spring.
Replace●
TRANSMISSION
Replace oil●●Recommended brand: YA-
MALUBE
SAE10W-40
API service SG type or higher
JASO standard MA
Inspect●
Replace bearing●
SHIFT FORK, SHIFT CAM,
GUIDE BAR
Inspect●Inspect wear

3-6
ENGINE
ENGINE
CHECKING THE COOLANT LEVEL
Do not remove the radiator cap
"1", drain bolt and hoses when the
engine and radiator are hot. Scald-
ing hot fluid and steam may be
blown out under pressure, which
could cause serious injury. When
the engine has cooled, place a
thick towel over the radiator cap,
slowly rotate the cap counter-
clockwise to the detent. This pro-
cedure allows any residual
pressure to escape. When the
hissing sound has stopped, press
down on the cap while turning
counterclockwise and remove it.
Hard water or salt water is harmful
to the engine parts. You may use
distilled water, if you can't get soft
water.
1. Place the machine on a level
place, and hold it in an upright po-
sition.
2. Remove:
• Radiator cap
3. Check:
• Coolant level "a"
Coolant level low→Add coolant.
1. Radiator
CHANGING THE COOLANT
Do not remove the radiator cap
when the engine is hot.
Take care so that coolant does not
splash on painted surfaces. If it
splashes, wash it away with water.
1. Place a container under the en-
gine.
2. Remove:
• Coolant drain bolt "1"
3. Remove:
• Radiator cap
Drain the coolant completely.
4. Clean:
• Cooling system
Thoroughly flush the cooling sys-
tem with clean tap water.
5. Install:
• Copper washer
• Coolant drain bolt
6. Fill:
• Radiator
•Engine
To specified level.
• Do not mix more than one type of
ethylene glycol antifreeze con-
taining corrosion inhibitors for
aluminum engine.
• Do not use water containing im-
purities or oil.
Handling notes of coolant:
The coolant is harmful so it should be
handled with special care.
• When coolant splashes to your
eye.
Thoroughly wash your eye with
water and see your doctor.
• When coolant splashes to your
clothes.
Quickly wash it away with water
and then with soap.
• When coolant is swallowed.
Quickly make him vomit and take
him to a doctor.
7. Install:
• Radiator cap
Start the engine and warm it up
for a several minutes.
8. Check:
• Coolant level
Coolant level low→Add coolant.
CHECKING THE RADIATOR CAP
1. Inspect:
• Seal (radiator cap) "1"
• Valve and valve seat "2"
Crack/damage→Replace.
Exist fur deposits "3" →Clean or
replace.
CHECKING THE RADIATOR CAP
OPENING PRESSURE
1. Attach:
• Radiator cap tester "1" and adapt-
er "2"
Apply water on the radiator cap seal.
Coolant drain bolt:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Recommended coolant:
High quality ethylene
glycol anti-freeze con-
taining anti-corrosion
for aluminum engine
Coolant "1" and water
(soft water) "2" mixing ra-
tio:
50%/50%
Coolant capacity:
0.9 L (0.79 Imp qt, 0.95
US qt)
Radiator cap tester:
YU-24460-01/90890-
01325
Radiator cap tester
adapter:
YU-33984/90890-01352

3-8
ENGINE
LUBRICATING THE THROTTLE
1. Remove:
• Cap cover "1"
• Throttle cable cap "2"
2. Apply:
• Lithium soap base grease
On the throttle cable end "a", tube
guide cable winding portion "b"
and roller sliding surface "c".
3. Install:
• Throttle cable cap
• Cap cover
CLEANING THE AIR FILTER
ELEMENT
Proper air filter maintenance is the
biggest key to preventing premature
engine wear and damage.
Never run the engine without the
air filter element in place; this
would allow dirt and dust to enter
the engine and cause rapid wear
and possible engine damage.
1. Remove:
• Seat
• Fitting bolt "1"
• Washer "2"
• Air filter element "3"
• Air filter guide "4"2. Clean:
• Air filter element
Clean them with solvent.
After cleaning, remove the remaining
solvent by squeezing the element.
• Do not twist the element when
squeezing the element.
• Leaving too much of solvent in
the element may result in poor
starting.
3. Inspect:
• Air filter element
Damage→Replace.
4. Apply:
• Foam-air-filter oil or equivalent oil
to the element
Squeeze out the excess oil. Element
should be wet but not dripping.
5. Install:
• Air filter guide "1"
Align the projection "a" on filter guide
with the hole "b" in air filter element.
6. Apply:
• Lithium soap base grease
On the matching surface "a" on air
filter element.7. Install:
• Air filter element "1"
• Washer
• Fitting bolt
Align the projection "a" on filter guide
with the hole "b" in air filter case.
CHECKING THE TRANSMISSION
OIL LEVEL
1. Start the engine, warm it up for
several minutes and wait for five
minutes.
2. Place the machine on a level
place and hold it up on upright po-
sition by placing the suitable
stand under the engine.
3. Check:
• Transmission oil level
Transmission oil level checking
steps:
a. Remove the oil check bolt "1".
b. Inspect the oil level.
Be sure the machine is positioned
straight up when inspecting the oil
level.
Never attempt to remove the oil
check bolt just after high speed
operation. The heated oil could
spout out, causing danger. Wait
until the oil cools down.
Oil flows out→Oil level is correct.
Oil does not flow out→Oil level is
low. Add transmission oil until oil
flows out. Throttle cable cap:
1 Nm (0.1 m•kg, 0.7
ft•lb)
Fitting bolt:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Recommended brand:
YAMALUBE
Recommended engine
oil type
SAE10W-40
Recommended engine
oil grade
API service SG type or
higher
JASO standard MA

3-9
CHASSIS
c. Inspect the gasket (oil check bolt),
replace if damaged.
d. Tighten the oil check bolt.
CHANGING THE TRANSMISSION
OIL
1. Start the engine and warm it up
for several minutes and wait for
five minute.
2. Place the machine on a level
place and hold it on upright posi-
tion by placing the suitable stand
under the engine.
3. Place a suitable container under
the engine.
4. Remove:
• Oil drain bolt "1"
• Oil filler cap "2"
Drain the transmission oil.
5. Install:
• Aluminum washer
• Oil drain bolt "1"6. Fill:
• Transmission oil
7. Check:
• Oil leakage
8. Check:
• Transmission oil level
9. Install:
• Oil filler cap "2"
ADJUSTING THE PILOT SCREW
1. Adjust:
• Pilot air screw "1"
Adjustment steps:
a. Screw in the pilot air screw until it
is lightly seated.
b. Back out by the specified number
of turns.
ADJUSTING THE ENGINE IDLING
SPEED
1. Start the engine and thoroughly
warm it up.
2. Adjust:
• Engine idling speed
Adjustment steps:
a. Loosen the locknut "1".
b. Turn the throttle stop screw "2"
until the engine runs at the lowest
possible speed.
c. Tighten the locknut.
CHECKING THE EXHAUST PIPE
1. Inspect:
• O-ring "1"
Damage→Replace.
Install the O-rings with their de-
pressed "a" facing outward.
CHASSIS
BLEEDING THE HYDRAULIC
BRAKE SYSTEM
Bleed the brake system if:
• The system has been disassem-
bled.
• A brake hose has been loosened
or removed.
• The brake fluid is very low.
• The brake operation is faulty.
A dangerous loss of braking per-
formance may occur if the brake
system is not properly bled.
1. Remove:
• Brake master cylinder cap
• Diaphragm
• Reservoir float (front brake)
• Protector (rear brake)
2. Bleed:
• Brake fluid
Air bleeding steps:
a. Add proper brake fluid to the res-
ervoir.
b. Install the diaphragm. Be careful
not to spill any fluid or allow the
reservoir to overflow.
c. Connect the clear plastic tube "2"
tightly to the caliper bleed screw
"1". Oil check bolt:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Oil drain bolt:
20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14
ft•lb)
Recommended brand:
YAMALUBE
Recommended engine
oil type
SAE10W-40
Recommended engine
oil grade
API service SG type or
higher
JASO standard MA
Oil capacity (periodic oil
change):
0.66 L (0.58 Imp qt, 0.69
US qt)
Pilot air screw:
2-1/4 turns out
To increase idle speed→Turn the
throttle stop screw "2" in.
To decrease idle speed→Turn the
throttle stop screw "2" out.

5-14
FRONT BRAKE AND REAR BRAKE
4. Install:
• Copper washer "1"
• Brake hose "2"
• Union bolt "3"
Always use new copper washers.
Install the brake hose so that its
pipe portion "a" directs as shown
and lightly touches the projection
"b" on the brake master cylinder.
INSTALLING THE REAR BRAKE
HOSE
1. Install:
• Copper washer "1"
• Brake hose "2"
• Union bolt "3"
Always use new copper washers.
Install the brake hose so that its
pipe portion "a" directs as shown
and lightly touches the projection
"b" on the brake caliper.
2. Install:
• Brake hose holder "1"
• Screw (brake hose holder) "2"
After installing the brake hose
holders, make sure the brake hose
does not contact the spring (rear
shock absorber). If it does, correct
its twist.
FILLING THE BRAKE FLUID
1. Fill:
•Brake fluid
Until the fluid level reaches
"LOWER" level line "a".
• Use only the designated quality
brake fluid:
otherwise, the rubber seals may
deteriorate, causing leakage and
poor brake performance.
• Refill with the same type of brake
fluid;
mixing fluids may result in a
harmful chemical reaction and
lead to poor performance.
• Be careful that water does not
enter the master cylinder when
refilling. Water will significantly
lower the boiling point of the flu-
id and may result in vapor lock.
Brake fluid may erode painted sur-
faces or plastic parts. Always
clean up spilled fluid immediately.
A. Front
B. Rear
2. Air bleed:
• Brake system
Refer to "BLEEDING THE HY-
DRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM" sec-
tion in the CHAPTER 3.
3. Inspect:
• Brake fluid level
Fluid at lower level→Fill up.
Refer to "CHECKING THE
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL" section in
the CHAPTER 3. Union bolt:
30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22
ft•lb)
Union bolt:
30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22
ft•lb)
Screw (brake hose hold-
er):
3 Nm (0.3 m•kg, 2.2
ft•lb)
Recommended brake flu-
id:
DOT #4

5-18
FRONT FORK
HANDLING NOTE
Support the machine securely so
there is no danger of it falling over.
The front fork requires careful atten-
tion. So it is recommended that the
front fork be maintained at the deal-
ers.
To prevent an accidental explosion
of air, the following instructions
should be observed:
• The front fork with a built-in pis-
ton rod has a very sophisticated
internal construction and is par-
ticularly sensitive to foreign ma-
terial. Use enough care not to
allow any foreign material to
come in when the oil is replaced
or when the front fork is disas-
sembled and reassembled.
• Before removing the base valves
or front forks, be sure to extract
the air from the air chamber com-
pletely.
REMOVING THE DAMPER
ASSEMBLY
1. Loosen:
• Damper assembly "1"
Before removing the front fork from
the machine, loosen the damper as-
sembly with the cap bolt ring wrench
"2".
REMOVING THE ADJUSTER
1. Drain the outer tube of its front
fork oil at its top.
2. Loosen:
•Adjuster "1"3. Remove:
•Adjuster "1"
• While compressing the inner tube
"2", set the cap bolt ring wrench "4"
between the inner tube and locknut
"3".
• Hold the locknut and remove the
adjuster.
Do not remove the locknut as the
damper rod may go into the damp-
er assembly and not be taken out.
REMOVING THE INNER TUBE
1. Remove:
• Dust seal "1"
• Stopper ring "2"
Using slotted-head screwdriver.
Take care not to scratch the inner
tube.
2. Remove:
• Inner tube "1"
Oil seal removal steps:
a. Push in slowly "a" the inner tube
just before it bottoms out and then
pull it back quickly "b".
b. Repeat this step until the inner
tube can be pulled out from the
outer tube.
REMOVING THE BASE VALVE
1. Remove:
• Base valve "1"
From damper assembly "2".
Hold the damper assembly with the
cap bolt ring wrench "3" and use the
cap bolt wrench "4" to remove the
base valve.
CHECKING THE DAMPER
ASSEMBLY
1. Inspect:
• Damper assembly "1"
Bend/damage → Replace.
• O-ring "2"
Wear/damage → Replace.
The front fork with a built-in piston
rod has a very sophisticated inter-
nal construction and is particularly
sensitive to foreign material.
Use enough care not to allow any
foreign material to come in when
the oil is replaced or when the
front fork is disassembled and re-
assembled.Cap bolt ring wrench:
YM-01501/90890-01501
Cap bolt ring wrench:
YM-01501/90890-01501
Cap bolt wrench:
YM-01500/90890-01500
Cap bolt ring wrench:
YM-01501/90890-01501